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Curly Q&A: Diane Da Costa

The Diane Da Costa American Beauty Tour is well on its way. We are counting down the last two months until the launch date on October 6, 2007m to bring you all the latest and greatest for Curly Hair Girls! Look out for beauty and fashion trends, a fun-filled Q&A session with celebrity stylist and beauty editor panelists, a total beauty and fashion transformation for American Beauty winners, giveaways, music and so much more!

Congratulations to the NaturallyCurly.com American Beauty winners. I would like to thank all the contestants who entered. I wish I could give everyone a transformation. We have more in store after the tour so stay tuned for a new beautiful surprise happening in New York City in the near future. See the winners selected by Naturallycurly.com here and see more winners and more information here!

Tickets are available for purchase after Aug. 15 at www.ticketweb.com.

Q: I wore a sew-in for a year and a half, and have been wearing wigs for the last six months. I have not had any kind of chemical in my hair for nearly two years. My hair is back to its natural, long state, and I would love to wear a naturally curly style. Please help me!! I’d love to know what I need to do to get a curly mane.

Da Costa: Congratulations! You’ve passed the two-year mark, which is actually the amount of time it takes for the natural curl pattern to regain its bounce and luster. Depending on the natural curl pattern — whether it be wavy, curly, very curly, tight coils, spiral, or ringlets — you can choose a curl booster, definer or pomade that will enhance your curl pattern. However, if you have very curly or tight coils, you might want to investigate a few natural set patterns in my book “Textured Tresses” that will allow you to retain a desired curl pattern for one to two weeks. And then if you want a permanent non-chemical relaxer product like Phyto Specific Beauty Relaxer, you will be able to soften the texture, which will release the curl pattern to allow more flexibility and manageability I will show you how to create softened curls with my Softener Technique on the Diane Da Costa Americna Beauty Tour.

Q: I have curly hair. About three weeks ago, my friend straightened it with a ceramic flat iron. (I don’t’ believe any products were put in my hair until after it was straight”>. I didn’t wash it for two days. It got wet at the beach, and then I washed it when I got home. Now, one side of my head is curly (like it usually was”> and the other is not (it is just a little wavy in some areas, and one section in particular is almost straight”>. What do you recommend I do? I want my hair back to the way it was.. I’d really appreciate some help.

Da Costa: It sounds like there was some type of natural straightening balm put in your hair. Your natural texture on one side might be a little softer or straighter than the other side by genetics. Sometimes, straightening balms can straighten the hair texture, especially if you have color on the hair. They are heat activated with a blow dryer or a flat or ceramic iron. I recommend you continue to shampoo with a cleanser or detoxifying shampoo like tea tree or peppermint. it should revert back after a few shampoos. If it does not, you might have to start all over or create natural set patterns to achieve the desired look.

Q: Before I moved to Florida, I never had a problem with my hair. People used to come up to me and say “I love your hair!” Now when we moved to Florida awhile back, all I got were insults on my hair and I noticed my hair had gotten poofier, frizzier, and dry/damaged from the hard water, and from all the products I was using. So a few months ago, I got my hair cut because of the damage. Then about a few weeks ago, I got gum stuck in my hair and now a part (in the front”> only has one curl. What should I do with my hair (to tame it and to style it”>?

Da Costa: The environment and water can damage the hair tremendously. It is so important to take that into consideration when treating the hair with moisturizing and deep, nourishing /penetrating conditioning treatments. A steam vapor treatment with a cocktail of moisturizing and botanical oils will help condition, moisturize and tame your frizz. .If you would like something a little more permanent, you can blow dry your hair with a botanical straightening balm, such as Phytologie Phytodefrisant. Or you might want to opt for a low-calcium mineralizing softening relaxer or Phyto Specific Beauty Relaxer, which is a non-chemical softener made from soy, eggs and mushroom crystals.

Q: I’ve had

  • braids — love the look but I can’t stand combing out my hair once I’ve taken them out
  • weaves — same deal. Plus, sometimes the hair is itchy
  • twists/flat twists — nice look, but how long do they last?
  • afros — I had one in high school, but I’m not an afro gal now.
  • coils — I have them now but I don’t like them. They look kinda young/funky and sometimes I like them (for about 5 minutes”> but coils aren’t my style.

Da Costa: Oh my goodness! Do you really want to fight your natural curls or work with them to meet your desired needs. It seems you’ve run the full gamut for natural hair styles. Flat twist sets and cornrow sets are a very professional look. The key to keeping this style past five days are the holding pomade and setting foams you use prior to flat twisting. First, shampoo and condition with a nourishing treatment, then spray a detangler and light leave in like, TAI Texture Lavender Mist. You can try Jane Carter Wrap and Roll Foam. It works wonders. You must sit under a dryer until your hair is completely dry for the look to last and to eliminate frizz. Water cannot touch your hair, and you should tie your head at night with a satin bonnet or scarf in an upward tie. Also, this style must be refreshed about every four days with two stand twists without combing out the wave pattern. Please refer to “Textured Tresses” for more details.

Q: Since I don’t really comb my (very short 4a”> hair after using product (if I do, the curls disappear”>, my hair looks uncombed and seems messy. How do you keep it neat while maintaining curls? I only comb while it’s wet, preferably with conditioner in. I might pick my hair out a bit to shape it and poof it out after putting in product, but I do that very carefully. I don’t work in an office where the messy look is acceptable. If I worked at the MAC counter, I could rock this style. But I can’t. So how do I tidy it up?

Da Costa: The tight curl or coil is a very challenging texture. Actually, to create and keep the curly look requires a little more effort with styling. You should try the twist out or coily twist out to achieve a more semi-permanent curl pattern which last about two weeks. My book “Textured Tresses” has several step-by step instructions on how to achieve this look. You can also try a steam vapor/conditioning treatment with a shampoo and conditioning treatmen. If you would like something a little more permanent that will soften your curl pattern slightly, try the PhytoSpecific Beauty Relaxer. It’s a non-chemical softener that creates manageability so the curl enhancers and cremes can actually do their job and works wonders with tight coily hair.

I will see you all on the American Beauty Tour!!

Curly Hair Q&A: Diane Da Costa

It’s such a wonderful time to be a curly girl. We are all the rage. If you’ve been reading the fashion magazines and visiting your beauty store, you will notice there now are hundreds of products on the market for curly girls. It’s awesome! The beauty industry has finally caught up with us. Did you know that 75 percent of women have curly or wavy hair, according to some estimates? That’s more than half of the population. We have truly arrived. So embrace your tresses: live and love it!

Q: I’ve been straightening my hair with an iron almost every day for the past few years, and I’ve kind of decided enough is enough. I actually really like my curls, and I get complimented on them almost every time I wear my hair curly. But I have a problem in that my curls are kind of frizzy and undefined. I’ve found from past experience that sprays do almost nothing for definition, and I absolutely hate the sticky, crunchy way gels make my hair feel. Are there any products that you would recommend that help define curls while keeping my hair looking and feeling like there’s nothing in it at all?

Da Costa: Welcome to our curly world. First, if you have been straightening with an iron every day, you probably have some curly hair and straight hair. Ironing your hair too often may straighten some hair permanently. Sometimes, if you use a cleansing shampoo or detoxifying shampoo, you can regain those curls. But not necessarily. To hold your curls and define them, use a little leave-in conditioner. I also recommend you trying molding pomades and gels that are botanical in nature. Some to try include AG Re:coil, Aveda Be Curly, MOP Pomade Spray, Redken Ringlet 06, Jane Carter Solutions Wrap & Roll. These products are great, and do not make the hair feel hard or sticky.

Q: I wish so much that I had naturally curly hair (I am a black women”>. I’ve had everything from straight styles to braids. Right now, I have an in-between nothing ‘do of some kind. My hair was short, and I put in some curls and waves with a kit. It was good for me for a while because my hair curled the way I wanted it to, and it was easy to manage. Now that it has grow out more, I can’t seem to get it to curl nicely like it did before. Do you have any suggestions about how I can get the curly natural look I love?

Da Costa: By applying the perm product yourself, you probably over-processed your hair. Because of that, you probably have permanently straightened some of your hair. I would recommend you see a stylist to correct this situation or you’ll have to start from scratch. In the meantime, you can wear beautiful curly weaves and hair accessories to attain the look you want while you hair grows back healthy and strong.

Q: I am a curly-haired woman who has only recently embraced her curly hair. I have very tight curls that I think would be best described as a 3C (sort-of Shirley Temple-like, but a bit tighter”>. I’ve been blow-drying my hair straight since I was 15, and I am now 25. I do love my hair (finally!”>, but must admit that it’s hard to work with. Part of me just feels prettier and more like “me” when my hair is straight. When I say straight, I don’t actually mean straight. I like it with a lot of volume and with big curls, which happens naturally when I blow-dry it. My question for you is whether there are any products out there that I can use to loosen up my curl a bit?

Da Costa: There are a couple of great products by Phyto, including Phyto Defrissant — a great botanical-based ingredient that will help to loosen your curl if you use a blow-dryer and apply heat. PhtyoSpecific makes a great relaxer — a wonderful non-chemical product made from soy and eggs. It can soften, texturize and straighten the hair, leaving it smooth, manageable and voluminous. It’s absolutely beautiful, and I use it on all my clients with superb results. Please have a professional apply it for the best results.

Q:: I’m 15, and I have extremely curly and somewhat coarse hair. I have been relaxing my hair for almost two years, and it’s helped somewhat with the chaos of my curls and frizz. But I’m a swimmer, and I swim everyday. So on top of straightening and swimming, my hair is a dry mess. I’ve tried waiting longer between relaxing it. But the longer I wait, the frizzier and more uncontrollable it gets. I know it’s bad for my hair. But I like to have the versatility. Also, I would feel better about my hair if it was longer so it weighed down my curls. But it’s impossible to grow it because my dry ends need to be cut off every couple of months. Do you have any suggestions about what I should do for styling or for growing it long? I want to proudly wear my curls in more then just a ponytail!

Da Costa: Are your relaxing or texturizing your hair? This will make a difference in how you achieve your curl pattern. Try softening or texturizing your hair to achieve a softer curl pattern — not straightening it. And conditioning your hair is the best remedy to improve its condition. Because you are in chlorine all the time, this damages your hair by drying it out. Giving yourself a deep conditioning treatment once a week, and a botanical oil treatment under a steamer ,will really help dramatically. Try TAI Botanical Treatment, either under a steamer or with a hot towel around the head, for 15-20 minutes. And before you go in any water, apply a leave-in conditioner to protect your tresses. Rinse out the chlorine after every swimming session. You don’t have to shampoo every time, but you should rinse it. And if you decide to have your hair softened or texturized, it will be easy to have wash-and-go hair. Your hair obviously does grow, but you keep cutting it because it is dry and brittle. Conditioners — leave-in, deep penetrating and hot oil treatments — are your best friend. Read “Textured Tresses” to catch up on all the latest styles, and read the “Chemically Speaking” chapter on softeners, texturizers and relaxers to educate yourself about the differences should you choose to take that route.

Q:: . I would like to know the best way to trim 4a/b hair. Wet/dry/natural/straight? How often do you recommend a trim?

Da Costa: Tight, curly hair should always be cut dry. Blow dry the hair out with a wide-tooth comb — not completely straight — and leave a little elasticity. You should trim the hair about every two months. If you want to maintain a short cut, it should be cut every three weeks.

Q: What is the best way to elongate curls to form spirals? I am about to get the big chop. I have 4a hair, and between four and five inches of new growth. Also, I’m pretty lazy about long routines and prefer to wash and wear. Any suggestions?

Da Costa: With tight, coily hair, you probably will have to have to start some sort of routine to achieve this curl pattern. With four to five inches, you have more than enough natural hair to create a spiral curl with rods or Nubian knot sets. If you don’t have time for that, you might consider a softener that will release the curl pattern and elongate the curl. Be sure to have this done by a professional to make sure your hair is not over-processed and to achieve the desired curl pattern.

Q: What is the best way to work with multiple textures of hair on one head — from curly to kinky — without working against either type?

Da Costa: Your first step is to receive a moisturizing conditioning treatment that will soften the tight curls and define the curly tresses. The next step is to get a great cut that will define all your curls and will give you a consistent shape with which to work. In terms of styles, any natural set will enhance the curls. Pick up “Textured Tresses” to get tips on natural styles such as twist-outs, coily twists, flat-twist sets, etc. And try TAI Texture Botanical Treatment for a herbal steam conditioning treatment. For styling, try products by Jane Carter Solution, such as Nourish & Shine. You also can choose to soften the hair for a permanently looser curl pattern. But one has to be very careful when rearranging different curl patterns on one head of hair. Please consult a stylist who specializes in texturizing and softening.

Curly Hair Q&A: Diane Da Costa

It’s finally spring, and it’s time to let your curls down. Let them flow freely and bounce, bounce, bounce. As we enter into the spring and summer months and receive fresh new makeovers, moisturize your thirsty tresses with a Tai Botanical Treatment — a steam vapor dryer treatment and refresh daily with Tai Texture LavenderMist (now available in CurlMart“> to revive and refresh hair and skin.

Q: I have two questions. I have a relaxer, but after washing my hair it becomes wavy/kinky curly. Is there anything that I can use in my hair to help retain and increase the curl and keep it moisturized? And, my 6-month-old son has thick, gorgeous, curly (almost corkscrew curly”> hair. I am looking for something that will help me comb, moisturize and keep the curl. He has a patch that, for some reason, gets drier than the rest of his hair. As he is so young, I am unsure of what to use that contains fewer chemicals, is more natural and is safe for his young age. Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated!

Diane: Anytime you can still maintain a deep wave pattern when wet, it is considered a texturizer — a technique, which softens and elongates the natural wave for more manageability. This is a very good thing, because you are able to wear your hair curly or blow dry and flat-iron it to wear it straight. First, always use a spray or liquid leave-in conditioner to moisten the hair. Then you can use any curl booster product on the market for curl enhancing or control. Try Aveda Be Curly, MOP Pomade Mist, Cutler Curling Cream or Jessicurl Confident Coils. To keep your hair curly and moist throughout the day, try my Tai-Texture Lavender Mist. Just mist throughout the day to defrizz tresses. And for your gorgeous son, try a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner (call CurlMart for help selecting one specifically for your son: 888-249-9250″>. Then detangle with a wide-tooth comb. This is very important, and will start the softening process. Afterward, follow up with a spray leave-in conditioner and top it off with a botanical oil to lubricate and moisturize. No chemicals required!

Q: I am a new mom and my 8-month-old has a head full of thick, curly hair. She is not bi-racial, but African American. Her hair is constantly tangled and dry. I don’t know how to style her hair. I wash her hair once a week just so it can be manageable for me to comb through and put ponytails in. But the ponytails do not last long due to frizzing, and some of the ponytail holders slip off her soft hair. When I braid her hair, the braids stick out in numerous directions. What is the best way for me to care for her hair? What products, combs, brushes, detanglers, conditioners (wash out or leave-in”>, hair accessories, hair styles, etc.? Should I wait until she is older before I use certain products on her hair? I have searched the web endlessly for help with my daughter’s hair. I hope you have a solution for me.

Diane: Your daughter’s hair sounds like what many African Americans dream of – soft, curly hair. When she grows up, she will be able to wear it free and flowing without any chemicals. For now, it’s a matter of products, tools and techniques. If the hair is soft, but dry and tangled, the best solution is to find products that are botanical in nature, and that are specifically formulated to moisten and detangle curly hair. There are a wide range of products available for children. Please have a look in CurlMart to see some of the available products (or call 888-249-9250 for guidance”>. Try a brush that is made from soft boar bristles, and detangle with a wide-tooth comb first on damp or wet hair. This method will apply less pressure on the scalp. Also, you can appreciate her curly hair and let it stay loose with control by using a leave-in conditioner first. Then apply a light, natural gel made from aloe vera. I think my book “Textured Tresses” will help you understand your daughter’s hair as well as provide tips on maintenance and hair care for her texture now and as she gets older. The two-strand twist – large or small – will work well for weekly styles, and is very manageable. Good luck!

Q: I went to a salon to get a trim and they combed my two-textured hair with a rat-tail comb. She did it in small rows before she trimmed it, but I hardly ever use my rat-tail comb. I was thinking she may have pulled some of my hair out. I’m scared to death to see what my hair will look like when I take down my cornrows. What do you think of rat-tail combs? If you use them, what do you use them for?

Diane: I never recommend using a fine rat-tail comb on curly hair. These combs are usually used for very fine hair, and for styling and teasing hair. Always use a wide-toothed comb on curly or coily hair. These combs detangle, and can be used for parting and separating. You probably have lost a few strands, however I wouldn’t be too concerned unless you felt extreme pulling and pain during the process. If she cut your hair while it was in the braids, you definitely will have an uneven shape. You might want to get a full shape with your hair blown out for even tresses.

Q:: Right now I am using Smooth ‘n Shine strong hold curling mousse because I want my natural curls. But I find that after I apply it to my hair when it’s wet and I let it air dry, it becomes more frizzy than curly after a couple of hours. I was wondering if there’s something else I should be doing so that my hair can stay curly without becoming frizzy and poufy. Please help! I want my hair to be able to look nice without blowdrying it.

Diane: If you are experience a lot of frizz, this product might contain alcohol. There are many mousses, curl boosters and curl rejuvenators on the market, but remember to avoid products with alcohol. Try The Jane Carter Solution Condition & Sculpt, Foam Set & Wrap or Vavoom Mouse or Redkin’s Curl products. Tai Texture will launch curl crèmes and gels in September 2006.

Q: I will remove my cornrows this week to be redone this Friday. I had this set of cornrows approximately 2 1/2 weeks. There is buildup. I would like to do a pre-poo/deep conditioning treatment overnight that I read about on NaturallyCurly.com (w/conditioner, oils, honey, etc.”> But, since I have buildup, will the pre-poo treatment be effective? Should I shampoo or at least lightly mist the hair and then apply the pre-poo? Should I do a clarifying treatment such as an apple cider vinegar rinse?

Diane: Please don’t mix different methods. All routines aren’t always effective. First, if you have build up, it is very important to cleanse the scalp thoroughly. You might be able to rinse or cleanse once before your treatment. However, if you have heavy build up, always cleanse with a detoxifying or clarifying shampoo like Paul Mitchell Tea Tree shampoo, and follow with a moisturizing shampoo to soften the hair. Afterward, do a deep conditioning treatment, or the pre-poo deep conditioner, etc.If you don’t have build up – try a detoxifying oil, like Tai Texture Botanical Treatment, as a natural cleanser for the scalp. Apply to the scalp, massage the scalp, then rinse thoroughly. Follow with your pre-poo deep conditioner or any deep conditioning treatment. Botanical oils naturally remove all toxins and allow the natural sebum to flow freely. You must always cleanse the scalp before deep conditioning if there is build-up or if you have waited over a week and a half weeks to cleanse. Never clarify with apple cider. If your hair is curly or coily, you will dry out your natural sebum and the hair will become brittle. During the braiding process, it is very imperative to condition the hair while in braids or cornrows with deep conditioners before and after as well as to use liquid leave-in products and botanical moisturizers during the resting period that braids provide.

Q:: My hair is long enough and I’d really like to wear it down. But my new growth is killing me. My hair grew a few inches since my last relaxer, and the new curls are tighter than the relaxed, so this looks really dorky when I wear my hair open. I can’t leave the house without at least a hair circlet or I’d have to do a straw set, which takes hours. And braiding looks dorky too because I don’t have much hair.

Diane: Please pick up my book “Textured Tresses,” which will assist you in styling your hair as you grow out your relaxer. There is a very easy set called the Flat Twist set, which will allow you to wear your hair loose between shampoos. Also, while you grow out your relaxer, use the following technique to straighten the new growth: Dry hair under a dryer to release moisture, lightly blow-dry it, and then straighten with a ceramic iron. That way. you are able to keep the straight look while you grow out your relaxer.

Q: My goal is to have flowing dry, curly locks like Holly Robinson-Peete’s hair — not drippy or wet or slimy or gummy. I was told that a Wave Nouveau would work well rolled with spiral rods and using a mousse to keep the curls shiny, dry and flowing.

Diane: There are several ways to achieve this look. The Wave Nouveau is one of the older methods. Depending on the texture of your hair — and whether or not you have a relaxer — will determine if you can receive a Wave Nouveau. You might consider a texturizer or several natural sets, suggested in “Textured Tresses.” Try some products like Tai Texture LavenderMist and Botanical treatment for leave-in conditioning, and oil treatments to achieve softer, more manageable hair.

Curly Hair Q&A: Diane Da Costa

What is Texture? You might ask yourself this question from time to time. It can be confusing for some — Natural? Texture? Curls etc.? Any one who has a curl pattern has texture. You are a Textured Girl if your hair is slightly wavy, curly, or very tightly coiled -– “You” have texture. You may even have a chemical process, relaxer or softener in your hair, but wear your hair with waves or curls. “You” too have texture –- a softer, sleeker texture, nevertheless –- it’s texture. This all brings me to a question I was asked very recently. “Diane, do you think there is a huge market for children’s salons for ages 2 – 12 years old?’ The answer is — most definitely! There is a great demand, and slowly children’s’ salons are popping up all over major cities. This ever-growing trend is catching on very fast. All children start out with natural hair. The texture may differ throughout their formative years. Then as they grow older, they learn how to manipulate their natural hair texture with chemicals and products to achieve a straighter, smoother look. This is all learned from their parents, I might add. What is my point? It is that children can learn all about their natural texture at a very young age. Parent and child alike can learn to love and appreciate textured hair when they start going to an educated stylist. And furthermore, they can learn that they have options early on, so as not to damage and destroy their natural texture. This is why there is a big demand for children’s salons — a void that has not been addressed. Children’s hair products are constantly developed and marketed to parents in their 30s and 40s to meet the ever growing and overflowing market. And yes, we are busy looking for the next best things to care for our children’s hair. When more options are offered in terms of children’s hair care, a larger audience will participate. In my experience, parents are thirsty and ready for the next level. Transitioning from relaxer back to natural would not be a challenge if one knew early how to care for and style textured hair Texturizing and softening the hair for manageability would be a choice, rather than turning to harsh chemicals to achieve a straight look. There would be an understanding that cutting the hair for style (taking off length”>, especially with natural/textured hair, is very different than shaping. Parents and children alike would appreciate the education and have a better understanding if they had a salon to go to learn the intricacies of their child’s hair. Reading all about this subject in a magazine is very helpful but there’s nothing like hands-on advice from a professional. A little education goes a long way. We have to start from the beginning. Even stylists can learn a new thing or two about textured hair by keeping an open mind.

Q: I’m a biracial (black/white”> teen, and I cannot seem to find the right way to control my hair. I’ve had about four salon relaxers in my life, and about 7 at-home relaxers . The problem I’m having is that my hair is straight on the top layers, but kinky-curly at the roots. The rest of my hair is either corkscrew curls or loose waves. My hair is also very thick; color treated and reaches my bra strap. But even the length doesn’t weight it down. Right now I use Crème of Nature Conditioning Shampoo and Citre shine leave-in conditioner. I do use a small amount of Blue Magic grease that does nothing to smooth the frizz or moisturize my dry ends. I used to use gel on my hair every day, but can no longer find one that smoothes my hair. I hate using too many products on my hair, but it seems I have to mix a million products together just to go to school in the morning. I can only comb or style my hair when it’s wet. But I’ve been told brushing your hair while wet is bad. The only thing I can do with my hair at this point is wear it in a bun or ponytail. I do love my curls, but I want to know how I can form them to be nice and soft, smooth and shiny. And when I wear my hair slicked back, I would like it to smooth down without a big ring of curly frizz around my hairline.

Diane: Believe it or not, you have a head full of beautiful curls that most women would die for. It might be just a little too unmanageable for you right now, but all you need are some tricks of the trade. First, you should stay away from shampoos with wax that coat the hair. Also, no more grease to smooth it down. What you want to do is start out with a very moisturizing cleanser once a week and deep condition your hair with a penetrating conditioner for dry, brittle hair. Make sure you comb the conditioner through with a wide-tooth comb to detangle and penetrate evenly. Make sure you receive a shape that will take some of the weight out of your hair and keep the ends clipped. For daily maintenance, simply wet the hair or spray with a mist, like TAI Texture Lavender Mist –- a botanical conditioning detangler and refresher. Then apply a leave- in conditioner that will form and hold each individual curl. The most important step is to find a product such as a molding pomade or gel that will work for your hair texture. Again, there are several companies that make these pomades and gels -– Tai Texture TwistCreme, Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding, Aveda Control Paste, John Frieda Crème Paste, etc. But please stay away from any products that contain mineral oil, petroleum or lanolin. Apply the product in sections of individual curls, section by section, twirling the hair around your fingers. Let your hair dry with a diffuser or with a dryer for best results. Do not touch the hair until it is completely dry. And brushing the hair will disturb the perfectly placed curls. However, when you wash your hair, you can brush it while it is wet with a wide paddle brush. This will help to circulate the blood flow that feeds your hair, promote growth and massage the scalp. Your curls will last you for days. To freshen up, just mist your hair and reapply your gel or pomade. When your products begin to build up, just rinse the products out completely and start the process over again. For other long-lasting styles, try creating large two strand twist by applying gel or pomade and sectioning the hair into 2” sections, then twist. After the hair dries completely, separate the twist and finger comb the twist for more fullness. Always let your hands act as your comb- they work wonders.

Q: I am African American with a very short half-inch barber cut. I have been using a texturizer to loosen the curl. What procedure do you suggest on a daily basis as a wet-and-go style? Is it better to apply with sopping wet hair; do I massage or do I comb through to get that curly piecey look? Any help you could give will be greatly appreciated.

Diane: To get the best results from a texturizer, you should apply your products on wet hair. It doesn’t have to be sopping wet, if the hair is short. However, you should always leave a little leave-in conditioner in the hair to protect the it and to define the curl pattern. Then apply a gel or pomade to hold the curl or try a foaming mousse. Always use your hands or fingers if you would like to achieve a piecey look. Combing the hair will distribute the hair evenly and give you a smoother look.

Q: I’d like to know what products you use on your famous clients’ hair (Lauryn Hill, Lenny Kravitz, and Blair Underwood”> and what hairstyles are easy to do for people who are hairstyle-challenged? I’d also like to know what things you do to achieve healthy hair?

Diane: I’ve used several products on my celebrity clients. They are always made from botanical ingredients, plant and flower essences. You can try Tai Texture Hair Care, Aveda, Kheil’s, Carol’s Daughter and PhytoSpecific. It’s hard to answer your questions regarding style without knowing more about your hair texture and length. So I suggest you pick up my book, ‘Textured Tresses,’ which provides step-by-step details on styles for you to try at home or to take to your stylist to try. Start with a recommended cleanser and conditioner for your hair texture, keep your hair shaped and the ends clipped, and moisturize your hair with a light pomade or gloss/serum as needed. Also, protect the hair at night by sleeping on a satin or silk pillowcase or with a bonnet or scarf. Cotton can rub against your hair fiber and break the hair.

Q: I was wondering how you would recommend doing an at-home steam treatment such as the kind you recommend in your book?

Diane: It’s very simple. First shampoo and condition the hair with the appropriate type of products for your hair texture. Comb through the conditioner with a wide-toothed comb. Run the shower for about 10 to 15 minutes with warm to hot water and fill the bathroom with steam. Then sit in the bathroom for about 15 minutes with your hair loose (no towel or plastic caps are required.”> Voila! The at-home steam conditioning treatment.

Q: I’d love to know what (product”> ingredients you feel women with natural hair should avoid?

Diane: Women with natural hair should definitely try to stay away from Balsam shampoos and conditions. These products tend to expand the hair shaft. Natural hair tends to need more moisture and products that will smooth the hair shaft and leave it shiny. Other major ingredients to stay away from are beeswax, mineral oil, petroleum and lanolin. They tend to weigh the hair down and collect debris from the environment.

Q: What is the best way to transition without doing the Big Chop? How do you keep your hair healthy and what are some good styling ideas for blending textures, etc. Also, do you have any tips on dealing with multiple textures of hair — i.e. coarse and fine, corkscrews, accordion waves and ringlets on the same head?

Diane: There are several ways to transition without cutting off your hair. You can braid the hair in individual braids until you feel comfortable with the length to take it off. Another cute style is to twist or flat twist the hair and the let it out for a twist out look. Multiple textures are inevitable for women of color with textured hair, especially multicultural women. Again, twisting and plaits are great ways to control your curl pattern with consistency, Just apply product on wet hair, twist, braid or cornrow, let dry and loosen. Always finger comb. If you would like to wear your hair with the wet/loose look, you’ll probably have to use different strength gels or molding products or strong-holding mousse in different areas of the head where the curls are different. This will ensure longer-lasting curls. Always apply section by section and wrap the hair around your fingers to create defined curls, and then dry. If you run out of the house with wet hair, you’ll get some curls without frizz. However your best results will come with a little drying.

Q: What are the latest trends in styling, accessories and cuts for natural hair? The pony puff and the wide scarf headband can get old.

Diane: Why not go to the next level, with Mohawk puffs — several puffs down the middle of the head. Or perhaps you might try three angle puffs on either side of the head. You can also cornrow the hair on either side and wear your hair in a twist out on the top, falling in a bob. There are so many alternatives. It just depends on the length of the hair and if you want to use natural extensions.