Search Results: Cozy Friedman

Curly Hair Q&A: Jonathan Torch

Q : My hair is about shoulder length. And for the most part, I love how it looks. But in the back of my head, my curls don’t start forming until they’re about 2 to 2 1/2 inches from the crown area. This is driving me nuts! What suggestions do you have? I’ve pretty much tried everything to get my curls to form like the rest of my hair but nothing seems to work. Please help!

Torch : To encourage curl formation, try deepening the “S” formation of each curl. To solve your problem I suggest drenching your hair with Curl Keeper while your hair is soaking wet. When you bend your head over, you need to start squeezing each curl so that you hear a “squishing” sound. If you don’t hear a squish, you either don’t have enough water, Curl Keeper or both. The squishy sound is so important that the more you squish, the curlier your style will be. So remember to do extra “squishing” on the stubborn, looser, underneath curls. Allow the Curl Keeper to do its job of controlling your frizz and supporting your curls.

Q : I’m having some serious issues with my big hair. I never wear my hair completely down because I’m so self conscious about how big it is. This weekend, I worked up the courage to wear it down since I was going to be home all day. I looked like a helmet head. It’s like my hair sticks straight out of my scalp when it grows out. I have a lot of hair plus it’s got a lot of natural volume. Right now it’s at my shoulders — slightly past when dry — and I’m hoping to grow it longer in so the length will weigh it down. How can I tone it down a notch? Help! I’m tired of wearing my hair the same way all the time. I’ll take any suggestions, products, techniques, what ingredients to avoid — whatever!

Torch : To control your hair completely would require both styling techniques and having the correct curly haircut. So I suggest that you first learn to control your style. When you have just finished washing and conditioning your hair and your hair is totally detangled and sopping wet, study your hair and you will notice that you have no frizz and very little volume. If you distribute Curl Keeper from roots to ends in the same manner as when it is wet, you will have the same frizz control when your hair dries. The less movement that occurs during the first 15 minutes, the more control you will have over the frizz. Once your hair dries, you can easily soften your look by simply moving your hair around. The more you play with your hair, the more volume you will achieve. People start appreciating their volume and curls once they have total control over the frizz. The Curl Keeper formula re-activates with water, so simply re-wetting frizzy areas with wet hands could get you many fantastic frizz-free days between shampoos.

Q : I have tried cheap products, I have tried expensive products, and all I really need is something to make my limp, lifeless, boring waves into nice bouncy curls. If I found something like that, price wouldn’t matter. I am a 2c, and my hair is very dry and like straw. If I don’t put product in my hair, I poof like the Lion King. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

Torch : Finding the product that’s right for you is only half the battle. Learning how to use the product is the other half. No two curly heads are the same and curly hair is always changing. From the humidity of summer to dry indoor heated winter air, the styling techniques and products need adjusting. One thing for sure is that silicones in any product, cheap or expensive, make styling difficult. The success of creating a curl depends on the amount of hair that can group together to form that curl. The more hair grouped together the looser the curl. When hair is coated with silicone ingredients, the sealed cuticles make curl grouping very difficult and flyaway hair appears, especially in humid conditions. When styling your hair with Curl Keeper it is important to rely on the Curl Keeper to take care of the frizz. Using the correct amount varies so it is an adjustment that only you will master. We also have a Silk Leave-in Conditioner that will take care of rough, dry wiry sections around hairlines or the tips of hair ends. The energy and effort is not how you dry your hair, but in taking time and effort in preparing your hair with the right products, then to allow Curl Keeper do its job as you allow hair to dry as much as possible on its own.

Q : I have an ongoing issue with the curls at the nape of my neck. I use gel when plopping out of the shower, and then let my hair dry naturally with a small clip at the bottom so my hair looks a little bit longer after drying. I do not comb or pick through my curls so that they’ll find their mates, and I don’t want to generate volume. The problem is that the curls underneath get so tangled and matted and squished together. I’ve done braids, leave-in conditioner (makes the problem much worse”>, the pineapple or braids when I sleep, different conditioners in the shower — almost anything I can think of to avoid this. I’m so frustrated that I’ve taken to tightly braiding just that section of hair underneath so I don’t have to deal with it. This is causing breakage and flatness in the back of my hair. Help!

Torch : To control your frizz and manage your hair style, it is very important that all knots are untangled and all loose hair is removed. Otherwise, matting occurs, which leads to dreads. To ensure that you get this under control, it is important to change your styling regimen. I recommend trying Curly Hair Solutions Treatment Shampoo to strengthen your hair and Pure Silk Protein Conditioner to moisturize your hair. The next challenge is to spray generous amounts of Slip Leave-in Detangler. After letting it sit for five minutes, removing all the loose hair will be easy. Use a large-tooth comb and distribute Curl Keeper evenly over your clean, wet, detangled hair for total frizz control. Allow your hair to settle and dry on its own before you begin your styling.

Q : I’m a 3b, but the hair at my neck is nearly straight (2a/2b“>. It’s just a small section of my hair – the lowest part on my neck – but it is so darn frustrating. I don’t know what to do about it. Any suggestions on how to get it as curly as the rest of my hair?

Torch : I recommend the following two alternatives: You could perm the looser curl to have a tighter “S” formation shape that is closer to your natural curl tightness. Keep in mind that the successful outcome of any chemical service depends on the time and care taken to perform the service. I strongly suggest a fully experienced hairstylist using the highest quality perms. Keeping your hair in its healthiest condition will certainly guarantee success. Depending on how the few stray pieces influence length or thickness, I recommend letting your hair dry as curly as you can. After you have achieved great bouncy curls, the few straight hairs will be more obvious as the curlier sections shrink. At this point, I would suggest cutting the straight hairs very unevenly to blend it with the rest. Be careful, because some people rely on those longer pieces to help pull their hair back for those plan “B” bad hair days.

Q : I am a red-headed 3a who is growing my hair out. It’s currently about 2 inches below my collarbone, and I want to go several more inches. But my hair is starting to get this puffy at the bottom — a total triangle look — and it’s not good! It’s almost all one length, but has just a couple of very long layers in it (not much shorter than the rest of my hair”>. Will more layers break up that look? I am so scared of layers because in the past they made my hair bigger, and I do not want “big hair.” I want ringlets that lay flat and long. My hair is extremely thick and coarse. I think the thickness/heaviness is the problem. Any stylist that has cut my hair says it’s the thickest hair they’ve dealt with.

Torch : Thick hair is certainly a challenge because there are thousands more hairs per square inch. Even cleansing techniques are difficult because it takes much more effort to wet the hair enough, making it difficult to get down to the roots. That is why some thick-haired kids have oily roots and dry ends. Controlling the curls will depend on generous amounts of Curl Keeper distributed everywhere while your hair is soaking wet. Allow your hair to dry as much as possible on its own without creating movement — at least for the first 15 minutes. Once your hair starts to air dry and the Curl Keeper has taken control of your frizz, you can be more aggressive with drying. Using a blowdryer with a diffuser will help speed up the drying process. As for layers, that is the most over-used term when talking about cutting curly hair. I suggest finding a hairstylist that understands that traditional layering techniques do not work on curly hair. Ledges form in the worst places, and can take years to grow out. There are specific hair-cutting techniques that carefully redistribute the bulk, creating curly hairstyles with bounce and movement.

Kids Curly Hair Q&A: Should I Brush My Curly’s Hair?

Q: My 3-year-old daughter has mostly curly hair. If I let it dry naturally, it is much curlier. But it is fairly long and it tends to straighten out in some sections while remaining quite curly in others. In other words, it’s not the big whopping curls you see on some kids because she seems to have a few sections that are rather wavy instead of curly. Is this because she doesn’t have a proper ‘curly hair cut,” if there is such a thing? Also, I usually brush it, and the curls pretty much come out when I do that. I would like to maximize the curls, but I think that means no brushing, using certain products and a special cut. What should I do?

Cozy: It seems like you already know the answer to your question. She should definitely get a great haircut that will help to enhance her curls. Oftentimes, if there aren’t enough layers or the layers are too long, it will drag down the hair creating those straight hair sections. You are also right about brushing: NEVER brush curly hair! It will cause the cuticle to stand up, which creates that frizzy look. Instead, when she is done bathing, scrunch an alcohol-free styling gel into her hair to enhance her natural curl. I recommend So Cozy Groovy Grape Styling Gel. You will need to experiment with the amount of product needed to see what works. Start with a nickel-size and try to evenly distribute it through her hair while scrunching.

Q: I am the mother of a beautiful 8 1/2-year-old who will only wear a ponytail. She has 3b hair underneath, and most of her hair around the top — from the middle of her head up — is probably 3c and fuzz. Two years ago, I had her hair relaxed and only touched it up once. She only has about one inch of straight hair left on the ends. It seems like her hair has changed. I used to be able to let her wear some curls, but now it is just peach fuzz. I have used all sorts of products, but none of them seem to last on her hair.

Cozy: Your daughter obviously isn’t comfortable with her hair yet, which is VERY common. That is why she likes to wear it in a ponytail. I don’t see anything wrong with her wearing it in a ponytail, other than that it can cause breakage to her hair. To help prevent breakage, try putting it in a looser band. Also, make sure to condition her hair every day to help moisturize and prevent it from drying out. Most importantly, you should try to help your daughter to embrace her natural curls. Take her to a trusted stylist for a consultation. A proper haircut can go a long way and can help transform your daughter’s insecurity with her natural curls into a newfound confidence.

Q:: My 4-year-old daughter has fine wavy hair. I need a recommendation for a good moisturizing conditioner. Her hair keeps tangling bad!

Cozy: You are smart to start using conditioner on your daughter’s hair. It is so important to keep hair hydrated to prevent it from drying out. Try So Cozy Sweet Strawberry Conditioner. Not only is it packed with vitamins and minerals, including Vitamins A and E and Sweet Almond Oil, but it smells so good your daughter will love it. Half the battle is getting your child involved in the grooming process!

Q: My 6-year-old daughter longs for hair like her straight-haired friends. Is it all right to straighten her hair with a flat iron just so she can get a different look? If so, what’s the best way to do this?

Cozy: I don’t recommend straightening your daughter’s hair with a flat iron regularly for two reasons. The first and most obvious reason is that the heat from the iron is very damaging to the hair. Second, I think your time will be better spent helping her to find hair styles that embrace her natural curls. I wish that when I was a child, someone would have helped me to work with my naturally curly hair rather than wasting my time and energy trying to make my hair look like my straight-haired friends. With that said, if you are going to flat iron her hair, comb it into 1-inch sections and work section by section. Make sure to use a thermal protectant to reduce heat damage.

Q: We’re looking for help with a big problem: our 4-year-old daughter’s hair. It’s very thick and curly, and in some areas there’s thick frizz. It gets full of tangles and knots, which makes combing and washing it stressful for all concerned. We use conditioner and keep it braided, which helps, but not enough. We’d like to avoid cutting it really short, because the length is pretty and her hair has become part of her unique charm. Any suggestions?

Cozy: You are not alone! Believe it or not, tangles are the No. 1 problem we hear about at Cozy’s Cuts For Kids. We believe that for thick, curly hair, detangling is actually a two-step process. You need the So Cozy It Takes Two to Detangle Kit. It includes:

  • Lucky Lime Pre-Detangling Treatment – This breakthrough formula is designed to be used IN THE TUB as it instantly starts the detangling process in the bathtub by smoothing the cuticle, which allows knots to comb right out easily and gently. It is formulated with natural ingredients such as quinoa seed, nettle extract, panthenol and wheat protein, which work together to smooth, nourish and moisturize the cuticle, keeping hair silky, shiny and tangle-free.

    How To Use: Simply apply a generous amount to the hair after shampooing, using more in tangled areas. Then, use the enclosed wide-tooth comb to work the knots right out. Rinse and then towel dry.

  • Fruity Delight Detangler & Leave-In Conditioner– This fruit-scented spray is designed to be used ON THE GO to keep hair smooth and full of precious moisture. It contains hydrolyzed wheat protein and wheat starch to condition and protect the hair shaft as well as Pro-Vitamin B5 to thicken and straighten the hair.

    How To Use: Spray evenly over the entire length of the hair, avoiding the face and eyes. Apply liberally onto hard to comb areas. Brush or comb hair at the ends and work upwards towards the scalp.

  • Wide Tooth Comb with Hook Handle – Used by the pros at Cozy’s Cuts for Kids, this comb makes detangling as easy and tug-free as possible.
  • Miniature Rubber Ducky – No bath would be complete without a fun toy, so this cute little guy comes along, too.
  • Detangling Instructions – Written by the experts at Cozy’s Cuts For Kids, these tips will give parents step-by-step instructions on how to use the kit.

Q: I have a 19-month-old daughter who has wavy/curly hair, and it’s unruly. I would love to get her a short haircut because it would be so much easier, but I wouldn’t do it because she would look like a boy and I don’t want that. What are my options?

Cozy: Not all short haircuts are “boy” cuts! You need to find a trusted stylist to consult with. You may want to look through magazines or research haircuts on the Internet to open up your mind to all the possibilities. I see hundreds of adorable little girl haircuts every month that are so cute & feminine. In the meantime, to alleviate the unruliness, try So Cozy Fruity Delight Detangler & Leave-in Conditioner. It will help you to gently comb through her hair, while conditioning it at the same time.

The Regal Heaven Scent: Neroli and Orange Blossom Oil

We’ve been hearing a lot about orange blossom oil lately as an additive to hair-care products, and for good reason. This sweet and floral oil, better known as neroli, has been used for everything from revitalizing hair to promoting emotional balance.

The name neroli distinguishes it from orange blossom water, a far less concentrated version than the oil. Both have an outstanding, unusual, sweetly strong scent that many find heavenly. Orange blossom water is very light and used in African and Middle Eastern cooking and in European homemade beauty products.

Neroli, on the other hand, has a lengthy history in perfume beginning centuries ago in Persia (present day Iran”>, where it was used to perfume royalty and palace walls. Neroli is popular in India, and has slowly been introduced into hair and skin care products in the West because of its numerous health and beauty benefits.

Origins

Neroli, one of the world’s most expensive oils, originated in the Far East and is believed to have been introduced to the Mediterranean by Arab traders. It has intimate ties to both the east and western culture, especially royalty, making its true name origin hard to decipher. It is said that the word Neroli is derived from naranj, which means orange in Arabic or from the Sanskrit word, nagaran.

Thanks to the Moors, the oil made its way further north and further west. Neroli oil was eventually carried into the Mediterranean region. And, by the end of the 12th century, bitter orange trees were being cultivated in Seville, Spain for the production of this highly sought-after essential oil.

The royalty of Europe also lay claims to the word neroli. Some say it is named after the 16th century Princess Anne-Marie of Nerola, wife of Prince Flavio Orsini. She is said to have loved the scent, wearing it frequently, which in turn inspired other aristocratic women and wanna-bes who could afford it to use it as well. Others say it is named after Roman Emperor Nero. Still others claim, 17th century Duchess of Tremoille, known as ‘La Nerola,’ wore it to scent her gloves and calm her nerves. We do know for sure that in European tradition the blossoms were woven into the bride’s bouquet probably for their calming effect. They were woven into the bride’s hair to proclaim her virginity and placed by the honeymoon bed to calm nuptial nerves and assure fertility.

During that period of time, Neroli oil was often used in bath water or as a perfume on stationary and clothing. Its rich, floral scent gained almost instant popularity and was used commercially by J.M. Farina, the famous Italian perfume manufacturer. In 1709, he began selling an essential oil blend of Bergamot, Lavender, Lemon, Petitgrain, Rosemary and Neroli. He called this magical blend “Eau de Cologne”, which is still quite well-known throughout today’s modern world.

The Science of Neroli

The scientific separation between neroli and orange blossom oil is clear. Neroli is steam distilled whereas volatile solvents are used to extract orange blossom oil. Neroli is stronger and longer lasting whereas orange blossom products are lighter and more ephemeral. Neroli essential oil’s origins are in the Far East, but it now is cultivated primarily in Italy, Tunesia, Morroco and Egypt from the steam-distilled blossoms of the bitter orange tree.

Like rose oil, this oil’s valid expense is driven by the enormous amount of blossoms necessary to produce Neroli essential oil. In fact, 1 ton of orange blossoms are required to produce one quart of Neroli oil. Neroli oil is the extracted essential oil of fragrant blossoms from the bitter orange tree. However, before the orange blossoms may be used in the distillation process to produce essential oil, all traces of debris, including green leaves and twigs, must be removed by hand.

There are many different types of hydrosols and essential oils created from various types of orange trees and from specific parts of the tree. The ordinary edible orange, which grows so well in Florida, is Citrus sinesis. An inexpensive essential oil is produced from this tree, but it does not have the same therapeutic benefits as neroli. Orange essential oil from the fruit is usually called just that, and it is used mostly in home cleansing products.

The delicate blossoms, rather than the fruits, are used to create the pale yellow neroli and orange blossom water. Its botanical name is Citrus bigaradia or C. aurantium. Petigrain created from the tree leaves and twigs has more of a spicy scent and it comes from the tree, Citrus aurantium.

Holistic Health Uses

In the East, neroli has long been associated with the second chakra, (the sacral spinal area”> in India’s yogic tradition. Yogis and practitioners of Aruyveda admire neroli for its trance and sleep inducing, relaxing qualities. They rub it on the abdomen or sacral area. In Chinese tradition the oil is used to mobilize chi. In the west it is used aromatherapeutically to alleviate depression, soothe anxiety, hysteria and nervous conditions. As a light, refreshing, uplifting fragrance, it is used to alleviate a variety of psychological states including insomnia, anxiety and depression. It is known to help treat diarrhea, and some aromatherapists use it to treat a broad range of menopausal issues.

Neroli oil has been noted to improve varicose veins, skin elasticity and the body’s ability to develop new skin cells, while working to soften the skin, wrinkles and scars. Neroli oil may also be able to regulate oiliness, minimize enlarged pores and clear blemishes, making it good to use on oily skin and hair.

Anti-oxidant properties encourage healthy cell growth allowing neroli to boost and revitalize dull looking hair. Neroli also is helpful in treating many types of dermatitis and scalp irritation. This once-exotic, elite oil is now used by many to calm skin rashes, diminish stretch marks and scars. Neroli is a maturing woman’s best friend, combating wrinkles and conditioning the texture of the skin. It also helps with various manners of the heart as a purportedly effective aphrodisiac, alleviating sexual tension and even as a cardiac tonic.

Recipes

Often people with fresh cornrows, French braids, Senegalese twists, Nubian knots, locs and individual braided extensions experience discomfort (pain”> and scalp irritation. The following two neroli astringents can be dabbed on the parts of these styles with a cotton swab to alleviate the transition to braids, locs or twisted hairstyles. These can also be used to cleanse the face before applying a moisturizer. The hair and skin astringent combination works well because often long hair that is braided or twisted hangs in the face releasing unwanted oils onto the skin.

Neroli Astringent #1:

3 ounces orange flower hydrosol

1-ounce witch hazel

1-tablespoon apple cider vinegar

Mix ingredients in a non-reactive bowl. Pour through a small funnel into a 6 ounce bottle. Dab on skin with a cotton square thoroughly cleansing.

Neroli Astringent #2

This is another easy to make astringent. By adding about 8-10 drops neroli to 16 ounces witch hazel in a non-reactive bowl and funneling into a clean, dry bottle. This is immediately ready to use—just shake very gently before use. Apply to the scalp (in the parts”> or all over the face, working upward with cotton squares, to cleanse, sooth or calm the nerves.

Anti-wrinkle Mature Skin Oil

To a quarter cup sweet almond or grapeseed oil, add 12 drops neroli

8 drops each: evening primrose oil, carrot seed oil and lavender essential oil.

Swirl to blend. Pour through a funnel into 6 ounce sterilized, dry bottle with screw cap. Dab on face with a cotton ball at night before bedtime.

Alluring Aphrodisiac Oil

1 cup rose-scented sweet almond oil

15 drops neroli

10 drops sandalwood

8 drops rose absolute

In order given, add ingredients to non-reactive bowl. Swirl gently to mix. Using a funnel add to 6 ounce clean, dry, bottle with flip top. Use as a massage or intimate oil.



Resources

  1. A couple of good online essential oil suppliers are: www.100pureessentialoils.com and www.libertynatural.com (which requires a $50 minimum”>. Liberty Natural Products also sells bottles, jars, absolutes and many other natural ingredients.
  2. Wholesale Supplies Plus at www.wholesalesuppliesplus sells a base shampoo, conditioner, bubble bath, body butter, lotions and creams to which you can add neroli or other essential oils quickly producing your own unique products. This company also sells bottles, jars, funnels and labels.
  3. One of the better bottle companies is Sun Burst Bottles at www.sunburstbottles.com. They sell jars, a variety of bottles and labels.

Curly Teen Scene: Remaining True to My Curls
Julia Rizzo

Julia Rizzo

CurlyTeen Scene is a column especially for curly teens. Julia Rizzo is a teenager living in Central New York. When not writing, she enjoys acting, reading and snow skiing. She has loved writing as long as she can remember, and plans to pursue a career in English. She hopes her column will provide encouragement and inspire girls to love their curly hair.

I knew my prom hairstyle wasn’t going to turn out exactly as planned when I found myself sitting under a dome-shaped dryer with hot rollers in my hair.

It was the second week in June and my senior ball was only a few hours away. I’ve always styled my own hair for formal occasions, but I decided to splurge and made an appointment at a salon that’s known for doing updos. It was crowded; my high school wasn’t the only school one hosting their prom that Saturday. I didn’t mind though because the atmosphere was festive — if a bit chaotic — as the girls watched their dream hairstyles come to fruition.

I wasn’t sure exactly what I wanted, but I made up my mind as I waited. I frequently wear my hair half up, half down, and I wanted her to translate my favorite look into a more formal ‘do. I was a little worried when the stylist sent me off to get my hair put in hot rollers. “What does this do?” I asked hesitantly, “I usually style it when it’s wet … ”

As I sat under the dryer, feeling like I’d been stuck under a beehive, I started to worry. When the stylist turned on a straightening iron, I worried in earnest. My final style took three hours, hot rollers, a straightener, a curling iron and at least three different products. As she worked, I realized that she probably was unsure how to style such unruly hair; so she had to straighten it to curl it!

A full can of hairspray later (I’m not kidding”>, I had loose, elegant waves — much different from the tight curls I imagined. When I got home, my grandmother took one look at me and said “You look different. I don’t like it!”
My classmates, however, had a different opinion. I got several comments and compliments about my straighter, tamer hairstyle. I was a little surprised to hear so many. My heavily processed hair was much different from the natural curls that I like so much.

I realized, however, that this new style was different, which was why it garnered much attention. When I was in middle school, I straightened my hair at the suggestion of some of the girls in my class. I received so many compliments that I truly believed I looked more beautiful with straight hair. What I didn’t realize is that people were just responding to the dramatic change in my appearance. They didn’t like my natural curls less; it’s just a shock when someone with so much hair suddenly has tame, flat layers.

I had a wonderful time at the ball, and the evening flew by. Whenever I see the pictures, however, I can’t help but remember all the time I spent in the stylist’s chair. The next time I get my hair professionally styled, I won’t hesitate to share what I know (from much experience, if I do say so myself”> about my own hair.

Ultimately, this experience has reminded me why I like my curly hair so much in the first place!

Stay Curly,

Julia


Email your questions/comments to Julia.

Rouquinne’s Makeup Missive: Waterproof Makeup

Waterproof makeup has been around much longer than synchro-swimming has been in the Olympics (1984″>; many of the early forms of the products were developed for “bathing beauty” Esther Williams, a former American swimming champion turned actress.

Williams appeared in over 30 films during her career, and in most of them, elaborate Busby-Berkeley-style swimming numbers were staged (Berkeley actually did direct Williams once”> with Williams at the center of dozens of synchronized pieces.

In addition to her radiant smile, Williams always wore beautiful red lipstick and perfect eye makeup while performing her swimming routines. The best information I’ve been able to find on how she got her look was that a shellac-type sealant was applied over makeup to make it adhere to skin for the hours the actors would spend in the water.

I can only imagine the lengths they had to go to remove the stuff and the damage it did to their skin!

You and I probably won’t be in the Olympics or swimming for Busby Berkeley, so we only need our waterproof makeup to last through an outdoor wedding, a backyard pool party or prom night. Fortunately, shellac isn’t required with today’s waterproof makeup, and removal can be as easy as soap and water.

Mascara is the one product that helps define a face, even when wearing little makeup. Today’s waterproof mascaras last, and Avon’s Waterproof Wash Off Mascara really does come off with soap and water. Most companies make waterproof versions of their best sellers: Maybelline Great Lash and L’Oréal Voluminous are just two examples.

To color your lids, Make Up For Ever has shadow/liner pencils called Aqua Eyes that promise to stay on “under the most extreme conditions.” These are available in 15 shades at Sephora stores or online for $16. For less extreme wear, try Sue Devitt’s Eye Intensifier Pencil; only nine colors and $22, but with one of the most beautiful khaki green shades on the market. It has a sponge tip on one end to smudge the liner into a shadow. MAC’s Powerpoint Eye Pencil is available in 17 long-wearing colors, including the beautiful Permaplum.

Simplicity is the key if one needs waterproof makeup for something like the company picnic or touring the sights in a humid climate. Try double-duty products for cheeks and lips like Benefit Cosmetics’ Benetint. This stain goes on as a liquid and dries quickly, so application is key. It’s now available in a “pocket-pal” format to easily tuck into your purse.

Vincent Longo has Pearlessence Gel Stains for lips and cheeks in three shades that promise to be “sip-resistant, swim-resistant and sweat-resistant.” Becca Beach Tint comes in one watermelon-pink (and watermelon-scented”> shade suitable to many skin tones. NARS The Multiple can also be worn on the eyelid for a monochromatic look. It comes in 13 gorgeous shades for a pricy $36, but many women swear by its long-lasting properties.

Tarte has a mini-duo of its famous (and now widely-imitated”> cheek stain along with a matching lip product. Lovin’ the Fast Stain is only available at Sephora for $30, and is watermelon colored.

If you really want to wear something special of your own, but want it to last all day, try Benefit’s She-Laq. This sealant goes over any makeup and includes a set of tiny brushes and applicators for $28. I am assured by Benefit that any remover formulated for waterproof makeup will take it off.

Before you head out, don’t forget your sunscreen. Try a liquid bronzer for your skin (Laura Mercier Bronzing Gel, Bonne Bell Gel Bronze”> and consider some bathing beauty glamour of your own – Esther Williams has endorsed a line of retro-style swimsuits!

Introducing Natural InHairitance

Greetings Nappies and Wannabes!

This month I’m going to use my ‘plaitform’ as kink crusader to tout one of my newest project under A Nappy Hair Affair, Inc. For my readers who may not know, A Nappy Hair Affair (ANHA”> is the organization I founded that promotes the positives about people of African descent.

While a principal focus of ANHA is to support the choice to wear natural and African-inspired hairstyles, our purpose goes so much deeper than hair. I use hair and our issues with it as a metaphor and a device to deliver an overall message of self-appreciation and cultural pride.

ANHA best known for the Hair Day gatherings that I began holding at my home in the spring of 1998 where women — now a co-ed group of adults and young people — gather together to engage in grassroots natural hair grooming sessions. The ‘nap nurturing’ gatherings, which are now held by others nationally and internationally, are not only a way for us to get our hair ‘did’ for free. They became the way we symbolically showed appreciation for one of our unique characteristics and set our own standards of beauty.

Last month I introduced the newest component of ANHA called Natural InHairitance. It is a multimedia package offered through my website that will entertain, inform and raise even more awareness about our hair and our heritage.

My new and improved web site will offer weekly pod casts called the Kink Konnection and Natural InHairitance subscribers will receive monthly issues of the Nappy News, my online ‘head rag’ for kinky kindred spirits!

There are other subscriber perks such as automatic ANHA membership including cultural appreciation coaching sessions with yours truly. But what I’m most excited about is that subscribers to Natural InHairitance will not only help support ANHA’s mission of fostering self-appreciatio but will also support our mission of boosting self-esteem.

A generous portion of subscriber proceeds will go to support Locks of Love, the non-profit organization that helps financially-disadvantaged youths who suffer from long-term medical hair loss. I suffer from alopecia, a form of hair loss on my scalp. Although my condition developed during my adult years, I am sensitive to the effect that hair loss can have on the self-esteem of a child. To have an opportunity to contribute to the efforts of Locks of Love to help boost a kid’s self esteem is what most excites me about my new project.

Just Peachy: Peach Leaf and Peach Kernel Oil for Healthy Skin and Hair

When you think of peaches, you typically think of a juicy summer fruit as well as a delectable addition to pies and traditional American cobblers.

These days, peach is finding its way onto the ingredient list of cosmetics. Why, you may ask, would I want to lather up with a peach? In this article, we explore the wholesome qualities of peaches. By showing how to use peach tree parts as herbs, it will help explain why peaches are not only tasty but also an herb useful in healing, hair conditioning and skin treatments.

Peach Habit and Distribution

Peach is known as (Prunus persica”> in botanical Latin. Peaches grow in many different temperate and warm regions around the world. In the United States, the dominant peach producer is California, although Georgia peaches are famous. Personally, my memories of peaches come from the numerous orchards in South Jersey where I grew up. Where ever they hail from, peaches are a delightful seasonal fruits, brimming with vitamins, minerals as well as fiber.

Parts Used and Purpose

While we focus on the fruit, other parts are useful in cosmetics. The leaves are quite medicinal, possessing diuretic, expectorant, laxative and sedative qualities. Peach leaf tea is used for chronic bronchitis and chest congestion. This tea has such a strong laxative action that is not recommended during pregnancy. The powdered leaf is made into a poultice and used to heal wounds.

Peaches contain a lot of boron, which boosts steroids in the blood. The boron in peaches increases estradiol 17B, the most active form of estrogen, making the fruit useful during menopause or after a hysterectomy. I can attest to peaches efficacy in relieving menstrual cramps and PMS.

Peaches are also believed to decrease the occurrence of osteoporosis and increase testosterone because of the boron they contain. A collaborative study between U.S. government scientists at the Agricultural Research Service and their South African and Israel/Palestine colleagues found natural oil in peaches kills fungi and other pests in the soil. This peach oil is being investigated as a pesticide that would be safer for animals, people, insects and the environment than other options.

Many handmade soap makers and cosmetic formulators, both large and small, use nature identical oil (NIO”> or synthetic peach scent (fragrance oils”> for scenting candles, soaps, creams, lotions, conditioners, shampoos and pomades. Aromatherapeutically, peach scent lends thoughts of peacefulness, gaiety and romance, hence its use in aphrodisiacs. The juice, oil, pit and fruit are used in magical love brews.

What’s the Big Deal About Peach Kernel Oil?

One of the most important parts of the peach when it comes to the hair and skin is the kernel oil. Peach kernels are pressed, yielding precious, sun kissed, non-greasy oil that is added to many cosmetic products. Peach kernel oil contains minerals including boron (previously discussed”>.

I have always had very sensitive skin, and unfortunately I didn’t really start to have acne until my childbearing years. Peach kernel oil is a delicate oil suitable for those with skin like mine that is very allergic to artificial ingredients and fragrances. The oil’s regenerative and tonic abilities are attributed to its content of antioxidants vitamins A and E. Recommended for its ability to battle dehydration, peach kernel oil is also respected for smoothing wrinkles and lending suppleness to all skin types. Peach kernel oil is recommended for inflamed skin and is recommended for serious conditions such as eczema or psoriasis or overexposure to sun and wind. Peach kernel oil is also high in essential polyunsaturated fatty acids (EPFAs”>.

Peaches in Hair Care

It seems that modern-day hair care product formulators have revisited the annals of herbal hair care. Traditional American Folklore espouses the use of peach leaf for hair conditioning and as a hair-growth aid used as a water-based infusion (tisane”>. I bought a pound of cut and sifted peach leaves and created a tea from some of it. I then used the peach-leaf infusion as a conditioning rinse on my kinky, curly, thick hair with good results. I like how it makes lackluster hair shine, and how it created more volume and body.

Peach kernel oil’s use in haircare formulations is similar to skin care. It acts as an emollient and is a light oil (easy to wash out and it doesn’t weigh down thin hair”>. By coating the hair shaft, it retains natural color and chemically applied color, making color treatments last longer. By gently coating the hair shaft, peach kernel oil protects hair from environmental conditions such as sun, wind, rain and pollution. Coating the hair shaft with light oil also deters frizz and helps define curl patterns. The nutrients in peach kernel oil, like peach leaf infusion, condition hair, aiding hair growth by preventing breakage and tangles.

Using Peach Kernel Oil

Peach kernel oil can be used neat (applied to scalp, hair or skin straight from the bottle”>. But that approach may prove expensive. Most formulators, aromatherapists and soap makers, including this one, dilute it.

Remarkably, it is equally effective in dilutions of 10 – 50% in carrier oils such as grape seed or sweet almond or jojoba oil, as it is used alone. Peach kernel oil can be used as a carrier oil in aromatherapy or as an emollient hair or skin treatment.

To use as a scented carrier oil to massage the head, scalp or body, stir 10 to 12 drops of pure essential oil to 6 to 7 teaspoons of peach kernel oil. Recommended essential oils for kinky, curly or wavy hair include sage, rosemary, lemongrass, lavender, Roman chamomile, sandalwood, palmarosa, patchouli, ylang/ylang and neroli. You can pick a few and mix them if desired.

Do-it yourselfers will enjoy the superior emollient qualities of peach kernel oil when added to handmade creams, lotions, massage oils and lip balms. Luckily, these formulas now are pre-prepared and sold as ready-to-use bases by certain companies.

For best results, peach kernel oil needs to be kept out of the sun. Stored in a cool dry place it lasts an incredible two to three years. The oil should also be derived from cold-pressed kernels, as over-refining reduces antioxidants.

Warning: Anyone with nut allergies in their home should avoid peach kernel oil and products containing it.


Products Containing Peach
  • Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo
  • Elucence Moisture Balancing Conditioner
  • Back to Basics Pomegranate Peach Shampoo and Back to Basics Pomegrante Peach Conditioner
  • Garnier Frizz Ultra Doux Walnut Peach Leaf Shampoo and Frizz Ultra Doux Walnut Peach Leaf Conditioner

    Frederic Fekkai Technician Shampoo for Dry, Damaged, Color-Treated Hair

  • Pure, cold-pressed peach kernal oil is available from many vendors, including Garden of Wisdom. It ranges from $6 16 ounces to $21 per gallon. This light, yellow, faintly scented oil can be applied directly to the skin, scalp and hair.
  • Brambleberry sells base (pre-prepared, ready-to-use”> lotion, lip balm, soap, cream, shampoo, to which peach kernal oil and favorite essential oils can be added. They also sell peach fragrance oil — one simply called “Peach” and the other called “Peachy Keen.” Added sparingly to your base, you can have a semi-homemade totally peach experience. Contact them at www.brambleberry.com or 360-734-8278.
  • Aromatic creates a base cream for mature, sensitive, dry skin featuring peach kernal oil to which you can add your own natural fragrances and color.
Curly Hair Q&A: Styles for the Tender-Headed

Q: My daughter, Arianna, is 4 years old. Her hair is 4b/3b from front to back and super thick. She is more tender-headed than I was at her age. None of the hairstyles I try last more than half a day before they frizz up, unless I do braids, which take hours and only last a few days. No moisturizers last in her hair. Detanglers only work until her hair is dry. Gels don’t work either. I don’t know what to do anymore!

Cozy: Are the hairstyles you are trying for her Arianna’s hair styles that work with her natural hair texture? I ask because I know that when I blow my curly hair straight, it doesn’t matter what products I use; if it is humid outside, my hair will frizz! Finding a style that works with the hair’s natural texture is half the battle of working with curly hair. Also, it sounds like Arianna’s hair really needs some great conditioning & moisturizing. Try leaving in a little conditioner in the bath, rather than rinsing it all out. I recommend So Cozy Sweet Strawberry Conditioner. It’s thick and creamy and enriched with Sweet Almond Oil for extra conditioning. Also, the sweet strawberry fragrance is a favorite with kids.

Q: After many years of wearing his hair short, my son has decided to grow his light brown 3c/4a hair longer. He has picked it, for fun, and it is a soft fro. He likes to just wash and dry it. But it is so dry that it just looks frizzy. We have also noticed a lot of hair in the shower after he washes it. I think this is a combination of natural hair loss that we never noticed when it was shorter, and the fact that his hair may be breaking because it is so dry. When he was little, we used to spray in detangler, comb it, mess it back up and he would have cute 3b curls. I would love to those type of curls again.

So I guess this is what I’m looking for: a conditioner and shampoo for multiracial hair, with a scent that’s not to flowery so it’s acceptable to a guy. I’d also like a leave-in product he can use to make looser, corkscrew curls, or at least keep it from getting frizzy. A possible problem here is that he plays basketball, and he doesn’t want something that will run into his eyes.

Cozy: Does your son like his hair the same way that you do? From what you have said, it sounds like he likes his new fro and thinks that it looks good, although you may think that it looks frizzy. Does he want help with his hair? If the frizz is the problem, stop picking it after you use detangler. Let the curls form their natural curls. A great detangler and leave-In conditioner sounds like just what your son needs. Check out So Cozy Fruity Delight Detangler & Leave-In Conditioner. It may be the answer for both you and your son!. For shampoo and conditioner for multi racial hair, check out Mixed Chicks His Mix Hydrating Shampoo and His Mix Leave-in Conditioner. Both are formulated for guys.

Q: My 3c/4a toddler is terrified about getting her hair washed. It’s an ordeal! She’s afraid to take baths in the bathroom; we have to put her in a tub in the living room. I know it’s only a phase she’s going through. But the instant the water touches the back of her hair, she immediately starts fighting and water gets into her eyes and ears. She doesn’t understand that if she holds her head up, I can actually do a good job without getting face wet at all. I have a small watering can with a long spout that would work very well and keep her face dry, if she’d let me. But it is just about impossible. I could do so much more with her hair if she’d let me get it wet. I like to do conditioner rinses, oil treatments and things like that on our hair. Please help me!

Cozy: You are right in assuming it is just a phase your daughter is going through, and it will definitely pass. In the meantime, you need to simplify your process as much as you possible until she gets past this. Forget about oil treatments and everything else right now. Cleanliness is all you should worry about. Try a 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner when you do shampoo her hair, cutting two steps into one. So Cozy Tropical Fruit is a nice, gentle product that smells great and will get the job done. As far as how to get her into the tub and allowing you to shampoo her hair, I recommend making a game out of it. When your daughter is NOT in the tub, have her give her baby doll a bath and wash its hair. Use the watering can and let her become involved in the process on her doll. This way, you can talk about it without her being emotionally involved. If that doesn’t work, try using a wash cloth over her eyes or a shampoo visor (Sassy makes a cute one”>. That will prevent water from dripping down her face. Good luck!

Q: I am VERY new to curls. My son was bald the first year of his life. Now his hair is growing, and it is curly. The top of his head is just wavy – maybe a 2a/b (more curl when wet”>. But his sides and back are pretty curly – 3a/3b. I’ve been wetting it in the mornings, but when it dries it gets really frizzy. I was wondering if there were any products that are safe for very young toddlers? I would like to cut down on the frizz without getting the “wet look.” I am curl illiterate.

Cozy: This is a very common problem. Many children have many different textures of hair. This is because the baby hair is growing out and their “real” hair is coming in. Rather than using water, which you already know doesn’t help, you need a product that will relax the cuticle and prevent it from looking frizzy. So Cozy Kooky Kiwi Styling Cream was created specifically for this problem. It will help smooth and control his hair, and the light formulation will not leave it looking greasy or stiff.

Q: My 6-year-old has beautiful, shiny 3a curls. But they fall into her face. We have to pull it back with a headband or pull it back into a ponytail to keep it out of her face. She looks at her friends, and they don’t have to do this and she wonders why she does. Any ideas?

Cozy: Have you consulted with a stylist for ideas about different cuts and styles for your daughter? It’s hard to answer without seeing your daughter’s hair, but perhaps some professional advise may help. It may be possible that some long layers may help.

Curly Teen Scene: Spring Cleaning
Julia Rizzo

Julia Rizzo

CurlyTeen Scene is a column especially for curly teens. Julia Rizzo is a teenager living in Central New York. When not writing, she enjoys acting, reading and snow skiing. She has loved writing as long as she can remember, and plans to pursue a career in English. She hopes her column will provide encouragement and inspire girls to love their curly hair.

Some mornings, when I walk in my bathroom or turn on the shower, I feel like the shampoo bottles have been procreating while I was asleep. Different bottles fall off their little shelf in the shower, compete for space in drawers, and go ignored in the cabinet underneath the sink.

My sister and I have a bit of a hair product problem. I’ll admit it. We’re addicted.

It began in seventh grade — the first time I used a styling aid in my hair. The transformation was quick and dramatic. My frizzy tresses were suddenly shiny, S-shaped curls.

I got my fix at our local grocery store, Wegmans, which has a huge hair-care aisle. The products are inexpensive and attractively packaged; it’s hard not to fall prey to their clever marketing schemes.

But now it’s time to scale back and stick with my tried and true favorites. My sister and I have amassed enough hair products to keep most of our friends supplied for years. However, we’re tired of tripping over bottles in the shower. So we’ve decided to do some spring-cleaning.

Our first step: throw stuff out. We send empty bottles of shampoo and conditioner sailing into the recycling bin. Broken hair clips, leaky travel-sized bottles and the stinky herbal conditioner that we both hate quickly join them.

Next, we survey what remains. We have a habit of buying new products just before the old ones run out and then switching before we finish off the last one. We decide to combine all the leftover conditioner in one bottle, and the shampoo in another. Besides being a slightly odd grayish color, the resulting mix smells great and works just as well (if not better”> then the different brands did individually.

Finally, we agree to stick with one brand of each product. We resolve to buy one bottle and use it until it’s gone before we buy the next. I have a weakness for styling products; she has a weakness for leave-in-conditioner. But we’ll use up what we have before getting anything new, no matter how appealing the shape of the container.

We high five as we examine our small, newly organized, bathroom. Some girls are addicted to shoes; other seek out the hippest clothes or sleekest makeup. Our habit is hair products, and it’s one we’re starting to break.

Stay Curly,

Julia


Email your questions/comments to Julia.

Majoring in Curls: Resist the Temptation to Straighten
Majoring in Curls

We all know I love curls. They can be the world’s biggest annoyance, but also life’s biggest joy. It never gets old when someone randomly stops you to ask, “Is that natural?” And you modestly nod and smile a silly little grin as you walk away.

So why are there so many of you ladies still straightening your hair?

I understand that straight hair does have the reputation of being in control and put together. And when you toss your hair, it automatically falls back into place. But is it really worth what it takes to get it? Do you want to spend precious hours of your life patiently clamping and straightening section by section of hair? I’ll wager that if you tallied up how many hours a week you spend straightening your hair, and figure out how much it is yearly, you’d be shocked.

For those of you out there who only straighten the hair once or twice a week, I apologize. You’ve created a good balance between you and your hair. But I’ve got to tell you, those one or two days will throw off the curl pattern for the curly days. If you quit the iron cold turkey, you’d find smoother, less crazy curls.

Contrary to popular belief, it’s relatively easy to pick out a curly girl masquerading as a straightie. The way they carry themselves is completely different than how they hold a head of curls. The sensation of free, bouncing curls is so different from straight hair that lies against your head.

I’ve only straightened my hair once in my life. (In my defense, I was coerced into it by well-meaning friends.”> The day I did it, I noticed how I wouldn’t shake my head or even turn my head if I could help it. I was self-consciously holding my head still for fear that the curl would return! Needless to say, I had a little bit of a sore neck the next day, and my head was grateful for the curl to come back.

No matter how much I promote the idea of embracing curls, I know there will always be a good portion of you out there who will still straighten your hair. You are the rebels who want smooth, flat hair every day. (You know who you are ; – “> “> Relaxers and straighteners are so damaging to your very fragile locks! Hair is pretty tough and strong all by itself, but the follicles become brittle every time you fry it.

So this is my advice to you closet curlies — tips that I hope will restore a little of that shine and strength back into your hair.

As I said before, try not to straighten it every day. Give those tresses a rest in between fry days. That rest gives your hair a little time to oil up and get a little stronger before the next heat session.

Use a deep conditioner at least once a week. A thick, rich cream-based conditioner should be left on for about a half hour, wrapped in a hot towel or a heat cap.

When straightening your hair, try to use a flat iron with ceramic plates. Even though ceramic irons are more expensive, they are less damaging then metal plates.

Don’t ever use those wet-to-dry straighteners! It makes me shudder to even think about.

You all know that feeling you get when taking a brush to wet hair — hair pulling and snapping! It’s like hearing Styrofoam being cut or nails running down a chalkboard. Just imagine the damage caused by that excess pulling!

Don’t go retro on me and straighten your hair with an actual iron. I have seen my sister take an iron her long, beautiful curls, never heeding my pleas to stop.

If you really want straight hair — everyday — ditch the high-chemical relaxers and do a little research on Japanese, or thermal reconditioning. This process uses chemicals to keep the hair straight, but it also conditions and strengthens the hair with proteins to offset some of the damage. But be sure that you like your hair straight, because once you do TR, the curl is gone forever — at least until the new growth comes in. And that’s another story.

So if you’re insistent upon the straight hair, play it safe. Keep those curls healthy!

Help Me Moisturize My Baby’s Hair!

Q: My daughter is 15 months old and she has a head full of curly hair. But it is really fine, and I have no idea what to do with it. She is bi-racial but really doesn’t have any kind of texture to her hair. It dries out so easily and nothing seems to keep it moisturized. What can I do for her?

Cozy: You will find that your daughter’s hair texture will change over time. For now she still has baby hair. In the meantime, you are right to be asking about moisturizing her dry hair. Try a leave-in Conditioner. We created So Cozy Fruity Delight Detangler and Leave-In Conditioner. You can use this on wet or dry hair, and it will help to moisturize it and will make it easier to comb through her hair.

Q: I really wish my daughter wouldn’t straighten her hair. She’s 12, and stick-straight hair is all the rage. She hardly ever wants to let it curl! Her hair is very long, thick and blonde (with gorgeous platinum highlights from the sun”>, and I’m thinking it’s about a 2b to 3a when we allow it to curl and use the right products. It’s absolutely beautiful! Add to it her pink cheeks and bright blue eyes… What can I do to help her love her curls?

Cozy: This is an age-old story. The grass is always greener! It took me nearly 39 years to embrace my curls! One of the reasons I think I had a problem accepting my curls is that I didn’t really know how to work with them to enhance and de-frizz them. These days, there are so many great products out there to help curls look their best. Perhaps you can help her experiment and play with her hair to help her find what makes her feel good about her curls. Try different styling creams and gels, and keep in mind that it may take some time to embrace her curls.

Q: My daughter is two, and has very tangly, curly hair. It’s very thick, but it’s not long, which makes it hard to put it into a category. It stands up on her head, and is VERY frizzy. She’s one-quarter Korean, one-quarter black, and one-half Caucasian. I’m clueless what to use for her. I want something easy to use. I think I’m definitely going to buy her special shampoo and conditioner, but I just don’t know what to use. She looks like Albert Einstein right now, which is not a good look for a 2-year-old little girl. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cozy: For a 2-year-old girl, you have to try to keep the grooming process as simple as possible. Try a 2-in-1 Conditioning Shampoo to eliminate one step. So Cozy Tropical Fruit 2 in 1 Shampoo is perfect for this. I would recommend a very light gel to help with the frizz. When she comes out of the bath, “scrunch” her hair with So Cozy Groovy Grape Styling Gel, making sure to do it evenly and consistently throughout the hair and then let hair dry naturally. Do not brush or comb, which would make her hair frizzy.

Q: My daughter is seven years old and biracial, and her hair is uncontrollable. It is very dry, frizzy and stiff feeling. I am guilty of being curly-girl ignorant because I have straight hair. I would love to know how to work with her hair. What products should I use? Should they be the ones geared to kids or can I purchase ones for adults? Is there a routine at I can do at night to save time in the morning? I need some advice!!!

Cozy: You are smart for asking for help because most people really only know about hair from their own experience. and clearly your experience is quite different from your daughter’s. It sounds like your daughter needs some very good conditioner in order to moisturize her hair. In her bath at night, try So Cozy Sweet Strawberry Conditioner and instead of rinsing it out completely, leave a little in on the ends. After bath, “scrunch” in So Cozy Kooky Kiwi Styling Cream to enhance the curls, to smooth it and to keep her hair from frizzing. In the morning, you can re-apply the Styling Cream or try to reactivate the curls and take away the frizz from the night.

Q: My 5-year-old curly daughter wants to grow her hair longer. Right now, it’s short and layered. What is the best way to grow out curly hair? Is there a strategy? Should she keep it layered or grow it all one length? I have bone-straight hair so it’s all new to me.

Cozy: Growing out layers is so tricky! There is always a period when growing out hair that it just doesn’t look right. For that, I recommend great accessories like clips, headbands and barrettes. It is hard to recommend a haircut without seeing your daughter because there is no one right haircut for curly hair. I can say that one length hair usually is not right. Typically, longer layers are better for girls that want long curly hair. But there is no rule. My advice to you is to hang in there during the growing out period and resist the urge to cut! Find a good stylist who can recommend a great cut for your daughter and a strategy for growing it out.

Curly Teen Scene: Travel Your Curls in Style
Julia Rizzo

Julia Rizzo

CurlyTeen Scene is a column especially for curly teens. Julia Rizzo is a teenager living in Central New York. When not writing, she enjoys acting, reading and snow skiing. She has loved writing as long as she can remember, and plans to pursue a career in English. She hopes her column will provide encouragement and inspire girls to love their curly hair.

It was the middle of the night and we were running through the airport, checking gate numbers as we flew past. We only had a few minutes to go through security and find our gate. Our flight was boarding, and we were almost there.

There were a lot of thoughts going through my head as we raced through the airport; I was relieved when they allowed us to go to the front of the passport line, and I prayed we wouldn’t miss our flight from Amsterdam home to Syracuse. Of all the things, I was worrying about that night, my hair wasn’t one of them.

We made our connection, and after several hours of travel, we arrived home safely. I had spent the last several days in Rome, Florence and Venice with family friends, which was a wonderful experience.

Although my hair was the last thing I thought about when I arrived in Italy, I did consider my curls while packing for the trip. I dug through the bottom drawer of my vanity for my travel-size bottles, filling them with my most reliable products. I love these tiny containers. Who wants to carry 32 ounces of shampoo and conditioner when you’re only going to use two? I don’t blowdry my hair, but if you do, I recommend bringing a travel size hair dryer. If you’re traveling abroad, don’t count on a hotel having one, and be aware that you’ll need an adapter to plug it in.

Packing before I left, I couldn’t wait for the trip to begin. Before going to the airport I washed my hair and braided it over my left shoulder. The braid kept my hair relatively neat and in place. And the style is completely flat on the back of my head, which is perfect for sleeping on the eight-hour flight between Newark and Amsterdam.

Now, I won’t pretend I arrived with every hair in place, but when I undid my braid, my curls were wavy and fresh. During the week and a half I spent in Italy, the only thought I gave to my hair was when I was washing it. Generally there is less water pressure abroad than there is in the United States, so I used less conditioner and spent another minute rinsing.

There are curly girls all over the world, and you’ll find them whether you’re in nearby city or another continent. If you find yourself traveling anytime soon, I hope you have an amazing trip!

Stay Curly,

Julia


Email your questions/comments to Julia.

Wrinkles: How to Get Rid of Them!

Last month I discussed wrinkle formation and prevention—sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen. And Botox for those of you who don’t want expression lines either. Have I mentioned how bad smoking is for your skin?

This month, let’s explore the options for “treating” wrinkles, starting with the least invasive procedure—moisturizing creams.

Every moisturizer works to some extent by temporarily plumping up the top layer of your skin with humectants (chemicals designed to attract water”>. But, since we know from last month that wrinkles are formed deeper in the skin, this will only reduce the appearance of the fine lines that you have. And that is exactly what every manufacturer tells you in their advertising!

Notice that they do not say that their product will eliminate or reduce the wrinkles; they carefully state that their product will reduce “the appearance” of fine lines and wrinkles.

This is the important part. Back in November’s column, I explained that the epidermis (outer layer of our skin”> is designed to protect us from our external environment. It literally keeps out all the bad stuff. But skin can’t differentiate between the molecules of “bad” stuff and the molecules of “good” stuff you’re putting on it. It doesn’t know that you’ve just applied a $150 “miracle” potion, a $10 cream that was on sale at the drug store, or some cleaning solution that spilled while you were mopping the floor.

Last year, Consumer Reports did a study on wrinkle creams. Using a double-blind study method for 12 weeks, testers tried products from Avon, Lancôme, Strivectin, La Prairie and others. At the end of the test, Olay Regenerist Perfecting Cream performed the best. But that said, it only reduced wrinkles by about 10 percent – barely visible to the naked eye.

Retin-A (Retinol”> is well-known for its healing effect on acne-prone skin, but it will also work on fine lines. A derivative of Vitamin A, Retin-A works to promote turnover of skin cells and stimulates natural production of collagen. This is only available by prescription, and works best if you continue use for a year or more. Be aware that it can cause dryness and redness and will definitely make you more sensitive to sunlight.

Peels, either chemical (glycolic acid or alpha-hydroxy acid”> or mechanical (micro-dermabrasion, dermabrasion, laser re-surfacing”>, are also effective at treating wrinkles. Depending on the concentration of solution used in a chemical peel or the style of abrasion used in a mechanical peel, results can be subtle or dramatic. Please see my June 2005 column for detailed information on peels of all types.

Deeper wrinkles are usually a result of facial movement over time. Crow’s feet around the eyes, for example, come from squinting in the sunlight. And forehead creases are the accumulation of a lifetime of wrinkling your brow or frowning. Botox works on these deeper wrinkles by paralyzing the muscle around the area (for several months at a time”>, allowing the patient to avoid the movement that causes the wrinkles. In combination with injectable fillers, Botox injections can help people avoid more serious surgical interventions for longer periods.

Fillers come in three varieties: your own fat can be “harvested” and injected into you (least likely to cause allergic reaction”>; collagen (animal or human protein aka Zyplast, Cosmoplast”>; and polymer-based (Restylane, Juvederm, Sculptra”>.

Fat-grafting is the most expensive and most invasive method of filler, requiring more recovery time. Collagen and polymer-based fillers can be injected in the doctor’s office and should only be done by a plastic surgeon or dermatologist with experience in using them. Fillers can last up to four years, depending on the type used and the area of the face treated.

Thermage is a relatively new treatment for aging skin involving the use of radio-frequency waves. During a Thermage treatment, the radio waves heat the collagen deep within your skin in order to tighten it. This also stimulates new growth of your natural collagen. While some patients have reported immediate results, it generally takes a few months to see the effect (which can last up to two years”>. The only reported side effect is mild redness akin to sunburn.

Face lifts are no longer reserved for actors, the very old and the very wealthy. There now are variations on full-face lifts that treat specific areas, for example, eyelid surgery.

During a full-face lift, the underlying tissue and muscles of the face are lifted, repositioned and stitched into their new place. Excess skin and fat are also removed and recovery can take several weeks. As with all surgery, there are always risks. If you are considering a face lift, or any variations one one, make sure that your doctor is board-certified by the governing body for plastic surgeons in your country.

A newer version of the face lift, called a “thread lift” or “feather lift,” redrapes the skin of the face rather than working on the underlying muscle. During this procedure, threads that have tiny barbs on them are inserted under the skin and pulled upwards to give a tightening effect. This works best on patients who do not have very loose or seriously sagging skin and the effects can last up to five years.

So, my friends, there you have it – from Retin-A to Zyplast. Whatever you decide for yourself, always interview doctors carefully, check their credentials, and talk to other people who have had the procedure done.

Wrinkles are something that cannot be avoided – we all get them. But this is one instance where the ounce of prevention (sunscreen, dark glasses, big hats”> is well worth the price compared to the pound of cure!

Sandy’s Position on her Transition, Part I

Several years ago, my friend Sandy Fields made a conscious decision to ‘stop living the lye.’

Sandy, who lives in Detroit, made the transition from using chemical relaxers and has been basking in the beauty of her nappiness ever since.

For a school assignment, Sandy was asked to write a persuasive speech. She chose to write about why she feels the use of chemical relaxers is bad, particularly for African-American women with kinky textured, tightly curled hair.

The pros and cons of chemical relaxing is a touchy subject, especially in African-American circles where the ‘good-hair/bad hair’ myth unfortunately still exists. That’s why I salute Sandy for taking on such a sensitive topic and doing a good job of backing up her position. Sandy’s speech is not dogmatic or highly emotional. It is informative and based on pretty good research.

As a journalist, I’m big on stuff like that.

Since I’m often asked for information about the effects of chemical relaxers and its use on the hair of African Americans, I asked Sandy’s permission to run excerpts of her speech:

Sandy’s Journey

“This information was derived from Tulani Kinard’s book ‘No Lye‘ and Pamela Ferrell’s book, ‘Let’s Talk Hair.’

So many women today suffer from all types of hair loss. Alopecia, age, heredity, and stress are some of the most common causes. The cause that is found in almost epidemic proportions in black women, however, is chemical damage from relaxers or chemical hair straighteners.

Most of us have no idea what these relaxers really do to our hair — how they actually go about the process of straightening.

There are two types of relaxers. They are sodium hydroxide (lye based”> and guanidine hydroxide (no lye”>. Although the no-lye products are thought to be less damaging, both types are harmful to the hair because in order to straighten it, they must first strip it of its natural moisture, and then break down the structure of the hair.

Let me briefly explain. The hair has two bonds — a physical bond and a chemical bond — referred to as the S and H bonds. These bonds create the S-shaped kink or curl in African-American hair. Chemically processing the hair changes the molecular structure by breaking down these bonds, thereby damaging the hair. Once the bonds are broken, the hair loses its natural shape and elasticity and can then be manually formed into straight hair.

The changed S-shape bond can never be returned to its original healthy form.

It has undergone a permanent change caused by chemical damage.

Sodium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide both have a very high pH factor, meaning they are highly alkaline products. When applied to the hair, they immediately strip it of all moisture, because any retention of moisture would reduce the effectiveness of the straightener.

This is why a deep-conditioning treatment is always applied to the hair after the chemical process. These treatments are designed to drive moisture back into the hair shaft and to coat the hair strand to make it look shiny and appear healthy, or in other words, to camouflage the damage.

But no hair that has undergone a chemical relaxer is healthy. It has been purposely and permanently damaged by the chemicals, and hair can’t be damaged and healthy at the same time.”

Majoring in Curls: Spring into a New Look

Majoring in Curls

Email your questions to Aimee.

Spring is just around the corner, which makes me think of bare feet, linen skirts and sunshine.

Every year, it feels like an eternity before the weather starts to turn. For some reason, the coming of spring makes people want to do something different, especially when it comes to their appearance. At my college, girls are changing their manicured nail colors and lightening their hair. I think blond is a popular color for spring simply because it matches the sun. Some opt for highlights, and some go for a more drastic look by bleaching their hair blond!

1. Get a Spring Cut

One change that is easy and gives a whole different look is to cut your hair. A shoulder-length, or even chin-length style can be a cute, different and easy look for curly girls. If you do decide to go through with the big cut, know what you’re getting into. Curls have a tendency to tighten up if the excess weight is gone, so go slowly.

2. Moisturize

Spring also means humidity-inducing frizz (Little Orphan Annie isn’t an attractive look for a college girl!”> Make sure you’re moisturizing the curls, because curls that are getting enough hydration are less likely to frizz.

3. Find the Right Stylist…

Once you’ve got the whole frizz issue under control, make sure that your stylist knows what he/she is doing. Don’t let them try to cut your hair in a straight line around your chin because this only works for girls with pin-straight hair! I don’t care how fabulous Jennifer Aniston looks, it usually won’t work with the curls. So find the right stylist and speak up before he or she picks up the scissors.

4. And the Right Style

Now that you’ve got a fresh ‘do, there are so many ways to style it. For those of you who are a little wary of looking like a little girl, a side part is an easy way to chic up the shorter curls. Headbands work better than ever with shorter hair, and there are so many styles to choose from. Personally, I adore the uber-wide plastic headbands covered in satin or silk. Depending on your taste, you can get headbands in pretty much any color or type you can think of. Decorated bobby pins and small barrettes also work great, whether it’s pulling some wayward curls or simply as an accent.

One of my favorite styles is to create a hair-band out of twists of curls. Starting at the part, on one side, I twist (or braid”> that small inch-wide section of hair that ends behind my ear. By twisting in a small piece of hair at a time, the twist stays close to my scalp and I can just pin it back underneath all the other curls. I do the same on the other side and I’ve created a curled headband that keeps the curls out of my eyes!

For you ladies out there who are up on the trends and are worried about the stylishness of such a hairstyle, look no further than the Oscars. The Academy Awards are a gold mine of the latest trends. This year, I couldn’t help but notice the number of stars wearing their hair shorter and curly or wavy. From Jennifer Lopez’s tousled curls to Naomi Watts’ soft, chin-length barrel waves, short textured looks abounded on the red carpet. So take the style and run with it.

The Benefits of Tamanu

tamanu plant

Tamanu oil has become a highly prized raw material, popping up in a variety of cosmetics and hair-care products because of its ability to regenerate, strengthen and protect.

Known as Calophyllum inophyllum L., Clusiaceae, it is brimming with essential fatty acids and nutrients, gaining a reputation as a miracle oil.

This article describes Tamanu oil, where it comes from, its traditional uses as well as how it may be useful to those of you with kinky, curly or wavy thick hair.

Tamanu Shrub

Tamanu shrub is indigenous to tropical Southeast Asia; growing in Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, Malaysia, South India, Sri Lanka, and the Melanesian and Polynesian islands. This dark-barked shrub grows up to three meters tall and has shiny elliptical, beautiful leaves with a tendency to crack. Twice a year Tamanu blooms, perfuming its environment with fragrant, white flowers. Later these flowers transform into clusters of yellowish green-skinned spherical fruit. The fruit’s pulp is pleasant, with flesh tasting much like an apple but with a large nut nestled in its flesh.

The nut is of primary interest to those utilizing the tree for cosmetic reasons. It contains a pale kernel, called ‘punnai’ in certain areas of the Pacific. The kernel is sun dried for several months, becoming sticky, dark, thick and rich oil in the process. This precious oil is cold-pressed, yielding greenish yellow oil with some similarity to olive oil and a nutty smell. The oil is expensive because the trees are very slow growing, and 100 kilograms of its fruit is required to yield just 5 kilograms of cold pressed oil. This is equivalent to the full yield of the nuts of one tree.

Folk Uses of Tamanu

There are many traditional uses for Tamanu oil in the journals of folk healers where it grows. It primarily it is utilized for critical skin care. In Indonesia, its dark leaves are soaked in water; the resulting infusion is a blue brew that is applied to irritated eyes or consumed internally to treat heatstroke. In the Philippines, its rich elixir soothes hemorrhoids. Some groups of Filipinos also use Tamanu sap along with sulfur to formulate an ointment for boils, open sores and wounds. Similarly, the Manus people of Papua New Guinea infuse the leaves over an open fire. Once they are softened, they are applied to a number of skin disorders including boils, cuts, sores ulcers and acne or other skin breakouts. On Dobu Island the leaves are used to make a tea, which cleanses skin rashes.

Centuries ago, Jamaicans used a type of Tamanu species to treat wounds and sores. Fijians use Tamanu oil for joint pains, arthritis, bruises, oozing wounds, chapped lips and preventing diaper rash. In many places where Tamanu grows, it is recognized as an analgesic for sciatica, rheumatism and ulcers. Pacific islanders also apply Tamanu oil topically to scrapes, cuts, burns, insect bites and stings, acne and acne scars, psoriasis, diabetic sores, anal fissures, sunburn, dry or scaly skin, blisters, eczema, diaper rash and herpes sores. The oil is used for several foot disorders, cracking skin and foot odor.

Like elsewhere in the world, Europeans use it on an array of skin disorders including mucous membrane lesions, chapped skin, surgical wounds, skin allergies, cracked skin, bedsores, wounds, rashes, abrasions, athlete’s foot, boils, and infected nails. It is highly touted as a treatment for puffy, wrinkled eyes with dark circles underneath.

The fact that is can be used on chemical burns makes it a welcome addition to African-American and Latina hair care or for others who chemically or heat-straighten their hair. Tamanu oil’s ability to regenerate and act as an anti-inflammatory and antibiotic make it a welcome addition to the curly hair care arsenal, particularly in protective and healing formulas for those who use heat or chemical formulas on their locks. Many of us with kinky, curly and wavy hair seek natural ingredients to help with hair growth or to stop breakage — in this area Tamanu oil shows promise. Not only is Tamanu oil recommended for skin disorders or scalp burns, but its regenerative properties make it the oil to reach for when trying to recover from hair loss. It is a wonderful aid for sisters seeking relief from brand-new, super tight cornrows, or micro-braid extensions, which often produce a burning, itching, irritating sensation on the scalp or even freshly twisted locks as well as on Nubian Knots.

Tamanu contains chemical constituents that are scientifically proven to help restore and regenerate. In shampoo products, the saponification process releases calophyllic acid from the oil, which is highly restorative. Look for shampoos specifically containing Tamanu. Tamanu promotes new tissue formation, accelerating healing and healthy skin growth.

You will notice Tamanu goes by many names so always look back to its botanical Latin name. It often is called Foraha oil.

It can be obtained from most online fixed oil suppliers, soap-making suppliers and handmade cosmetic suppliers and at your local health food stores. It typically is applied directly to skin undiluted, although you may want to dilute it to save money. There have been some scientific reports of adverse effects from topical application (contact dermatitis”>, so do a 24 hour pre-test before using. Apply a small bit to the wrist and see if there is a reaction the next day.

Tips

For thick, dry hair, Tamanu oil can be applied directly to the hair directly after shampooing or as a deep-moisturizing pre-wash. Because of the extremely high cost of pure Tamanu oil, consider diluting it with a quality, nourishing carrier oil such as jojoba oil, safflower oil, avocado oil, hempseed oil or grapeseed oil. Because of its extremely pungent nutty smell, masking it with a few drops (dropped from a dropper 2-3 drops”> of lemongrass, ylang/ylang, patchouli, bois de rose or geranium would work well.

Products Containing Tamanu

  • John Masters Honey and Hibiscus Reconstructor
  • Innersense Sweet Spirit Leave-In Conditioner
  • Shea Terra Organics Tamanu Oil
  • Aveda Be Curly Shampoo
  • Aveda Be Curly Conditioner
  • Aveda Be Curly Curl Enhancer
  • Aveda Be Curly Curl Control
  • REN Tamanu High Glide Shaving Oil
  • Sundari Neem & Tamanu Corrective Moisturizer
  • Sundari Neem Healing Treatment
  • Innersense True Embrace Body Lotion
  • Innersense Blissful Body Butter
  • Innersense Harmonic Healing Oil
  • Monoi Kemeri Tamanu SPF3
  • New Chapter Organic’s True Tamanu Tropical Topical Skin Rescue
  • Scar So Soft
  • Lauren Hutton’s Tamanu OIl Set
  • Boots Eastern Calming Massage Oil
  • Boots Calming Sandalwood, Amber & Tamanu Bath Soak
  • Mode de Vie Shea Butter Body Lotion with Tamanu Oil
  • Molton Brown Heavenly Gingerlily Moisture Bath & Shower
  • Green Fire Herbs Healing Bath Oil
  • Aveda Outer Peace Acne Relief
  • John Masters Organics Rose & Apricot Antioxidant Day Cream
  • John Masters Organics Linden Blossom Face Creme Cleanser
  • John Masters Organics Green Tea & Rose Hydrating Face Serum
  • John Masters Organics Vitamin C Anti-Aging Face Serum
  • L’Anza Healing Moisture line

Raw Sources

Shea Terra Organics, (foraha from Madagascar”> 8400-C Hilltop Road, Fairfax, VA 22031 (checks must be made payable to African Shea Butter Co.”> call 877-427-6627; fax 703-846-9883

Sheabutter.com

Curly Hair Q&A: Jonathan Torch

Q : I just found the website and am curious about growing my hair out a bit. I have been wearing my naturally curly, dark blonde (with well-maintained highlights”> hair pretty short for about 11 years. I can style it as I please at this length (it’s no more than 3-4 inches long anywhere”>, but I’m quite bored and am thinking of growing it out — not long, but maybe just above my shoulders. I have a Scottish background, and my hair looks much like traditional British Isles curlies, loosening somewhat as I approach 40 years old. My concern is frizz and control. Once I style my hair in the morning, I don’t like to think about it any more until the next day. How can I style it as it grows and gets “big” and what kind of style might I have in the future that keeps its shape without being sprayed to hardness? I am tired of having bangs as well. It’s windy and/or humid a lot here!

Torch : As you have found, it is quite challenging to grow out curly hair. The process goes through several phases, and the styling ease and finished look vary from phase to phase. You will have to be flexible with the styling techniques and have a lot of patience. The benefits of growing out your curls are fantastic. You will feel younger and discover a curl freedom that you will love and appreciate. However, you should realize that curly hair tends to be messier than straight hair. That doesn’t mean that you will have frizz. I promise that the Curl Keeper will take care of that. The frizz will not be the problem. Having the persistence to allow your curls to dry on their own, with as little touching as possible, will be the greatest challenge. Creating the finished look needs patience to allow the products to do their job. When wearing your hair curly, you should first create the curls with Curl Keeper on wet hair and allow the hair to dry on its own until the entire frizz is controlled. Then, slowly and gently begin to soften and separate the firm curls to bring out the style that suits you. You will need the help of a qualified stylist to control where you want and need volume. Because you will need the hair to grow, I suggest working with a stylist to perfect your styling techniques. You can then show your hairstylist your curls when they look great so there is no guesswork involved. I have helped many people grow their hair long, and you will find that it is possible to make the journey a success. If you get discouraged, play with hair color. And, always use the best products.

Q : I have naturally curly red hair. I hate it because I am going on 17 years old and I still can’t figure out how to style it right. I get up in the morning and wash it. Then I put Paul Mitchell gel in it, let it air dry while doing my makeup, fling it back and forth and hairspray it with Aussie hairspray. It keeps the frizz down pretty good, but my hair looks like its wet all day. I want it to look nice and soft and dry without frizz. Can you help me, please?

Torch : You certainly take the time to style your hair! And, taking the time and effort in the preparation will result in more success in achieving perfect long-lasting, frizz-free curls. You should be able to rely on the correct products to perform properly. A good haircut can only go so far. That only applies to straight hair. The first step is to clean, condition and completely detangle your hair. Then, apply Curl Keeper generously throughout your wet hair. There are no silicones or oils in Curl Keeper so you can never overdo it. You want to achieve the same frizz control you have while your hair is wet without the look and feel of product in your hair. Allow your hair to dry on its own for as long as you can. If you are in a rush you can begin to diffuse your curls but only when they reach the point that the surface feels dry. That is when you will need patience. Slowly create some movement, but try not to disturb the curls you had while it was wet. If you overdo it, you can reactivate the Curl Keeper by wetting your hands with water and touching the flyaway curls. Because the Curl Keeper softens to the touch, you can create the fullness you are looking for when your curls are completely dry. The more movement you create, the softer and fuller your style will become. If you follow these steps, your frizz will be controlled for several days. Curl Keeper reactivates itself with water as long as you use a sufficient amount.

Q : I have naturally curly hair. My hair used to be very thick, and when cut short went right into an afro. The last 10 years, I have been losing my hair, so it is quite thin. I am 47 and am going through menopause. My hair is more wavy then curly now and I cannot seem to make it do what I want. I have no idea what kind of hairstyle would help me or if there is something else I should be doing at this time. My husband says I should cut it short — it is shoulder length and layered at this time. I prefer longer hair but it isn’t working well. Any suggestions?

Torch : If the best style for you depends on fullness, then cutting it short will not solve your problem. Volume is simple when working with curly hair. What causes curly hair to lie flat is the humidity factor — which drops in the winter months — and, over-layering curly hair. Cutting wavy hair short cuts the bend or curl right out of the hair. Be sure to study the curl or wave pattern before determining where your hair should be cut. Another cause of flatness is the overuse of products that build up film and coat the hair. To correct your problem, learn how to enhance your curls. This should be done when your hair is quite wet by applying Curl Keeper and some gel to the flat spots. A squishing technique is required, which means you squeeze your hair with your hands until you hear a squishy sound. If you don’t hear the “squish,” you either don’t have enough water or product in your hair. A few clips will help keep the wet squished hair in place until your hair dries on its own. Then you can diffuse your curls to speed up the drying time and expand your hairstyle. Remember, only judge your hairstyle when it is completely dry. This is a process to control your curls.

Q : I have naturally curly hair (obviously”>. I straightened it yesterday, just because I had basically nothing else to do, and decided to go pay my boyfriend a surprise visit at where he works. When he saw me, he flooded me with all these compliments on my hair and how pretty I looked with it straight. And he asked me why I didn’t straighten it every day. I told him it’s because it takes me an hour and a half, and he said “Okay, get up at four thirty.” I know he won’t like me any less because of my hair, but I can’t stop thinking that maybe if I straightened it every day it would make him more happy? I’m stuck between what’s easier for me, which is keeping it curly, and what he wants. Any suggestions?

Torch : The first impression your boyfriend got was a clean, shiny, controlled, longer hairstyle that was different and new. Change is fun and exciting, and I suggest that you don’t stay with one look all the time. The straight look will begin to look boring over time. What I suggest is to take the time and show him the full potential your curly hair has to offer. Don’t be lazy — take the time to use the correct products and learn how to create perfect frizz-free curls that are clean shiny and soft. Show him what real curls are made of.

Q : My name is Sandra and I am 57 years young. I have been fighting the frizzies all of my life until this past summer. I decided that I was too tired to fight with my hair any longer. I have let it go curly but did not realize how curly it was. I just thought that I had very wavy, frizzy hair. I tried many products and spent a lot of money doing this. I have found that mousse is the best product for me to tame my hair. I am still not satisfied! I have very course, dry, thick hair. I would like smooth, bouncy curls that shine too. Am I asking for a miracle? At my age I do not have the time or the patience that I had as a teenager. Please HELP me! My son is getting married in May, the start of the frizzy season. What can I do without spending thousands of dollars on products? Also ,does the right cut make the difference? I am counting on you to be my curly “Guru.”

Torch : The cut is only important once you have discovered the trick to creating perfect curls. To loosen the tight curls, you start by combing through soaking-wet hair with generous amounts of Curl Keeper from roots to ends. Our Silk Leave-In Conditioner will soften any wiry areas that are harder to control. I MUST emphasize that to do this properly your hair must be soaked with water and have Curl Keeper combed completely through. Some curly heads do this while still in the shower as it can be messy. When your hair is completely detangled, start combing with the smaller teeth of the comb. There is more tension with the smaller teeth which will result in looser curls. Your hair may need to be combed for quite some time before you are content with the looseness of your curl. If you squish your hair it may tighten up. However, if you can let your curls dry as much as possible on their own without touching, Curl Keeper will duplicate that exact formation without the frizz. Once you have dried your hair cuticle in a closed position with Curl Keeper, it will stay that way until it is rewashed. You can reactivate any section that frizzes up by simply running wet hands slowly over any frizzy areas. Once you have mastered controlling the frizz, you will enjoy your curls. The next step is to find a hairstylist that knows how to cut curly hair as your hair seems to have bulk issues.

Curly Teen Scene: Get An Early Start to Understanding/Appreciating Your Curls
Julia Rizzo

Julia Rizzo

CurlyTeen Scene is a column especially for curly teens. Julia Rizzo is a teenager living in Central New York. When not writing, she enjoys acting, reading and snow skiing. She has loved writing as long as she can remember, and plans to pursue a career in English. She hopes her column will provide encouragement and inspire girls to love their curly hair.

Middle school was a crazy time for me. Everyone was changing and growing, and social circles and interests shifted constantly. People seemed to separate into two group — the “cool” and the “uncool.”

In middle school, I was decidedly “uncool” In seventh grade I was self-conscious about the way I looked. I really had no idea how to take care of my hair, so I did one of two things. I would either brush it until every snarl (and with it every defined curl”> was gone, leaving it a frizzy triangle, or twist into a tight bun at the nape of my neck. Depending on the day, I looked like I’d been electrocuted or like I was posing as the headmistress of a very strict boarding school.

A few friends thought the solution was straightening my hair. “Have you every tried it?” they said. “You’d look sooo pretty!” These comments were reinforced by makeover shows and movies like “The Princess Diaries” where women had their hair blown out as part of a dramatic makeover.

My mother refused to buy me a straightener, taking me to a local salon instead. The hairstylist there changed the way I looked at my curls! She took away my hairbrush and replaced it with leave-in conditioner. She taught me how to diffuse my hair, so if I didn’t have time to air dry it. I could skip toweling, which just creates more frizz. Suddenly I had hair I could manage! A severe twist or a frizzy ball became a cascade of curls, a playful ponytail or an easy up-do. My classmates stopped pestering me to straighten my hair, and a few had even left their flatirons behind themselves!

Learning how to take care of my hair gave me fresh confidence that I took with me as I started high school, and I soon realized that embracing my curls simplified my life.

I rock my hair, even on days when it’s less than perfect. I sleep in later, my curls are healthier, and I don’t fear the weather. Even better, I enjoy watching my little sister, Lilly, go through middle school as a confident, content curly girl. Although she couldn’t straighten her hair if she tried, her unblinking acceptance of her unconventional curls never fails to make me smile.

Stay Curly,

Julia