Search Results: Cozy Friedman

Dear Cozy: My baby has curly hair—around 3b/c—and every time I braid her hair. it gets frizzy around day 3 and I want to start doing protective braids and leave in for 2 weeks but by the end of week 1, her hair looks like a disaster. Should I use braid sheen or what? I need help.

A: Braid sheen is a great idea. Try spraying in a small amount the second day of the braids and then approximately every other day after that. Be careful just to use a little sheen, otherwise it will make hair greasy. Now, here’s a secret tip—put a bandanna on your daughter’s head before bed, as this will help keep hair from getting ruffled and frizzy.

Dear Cozy: I’m a mostly straight-haired mom with a 2 1/2-year-old daughter. She has very fine strawberry blond hair. It was straight until she was about a year old but started to become curly. Now it is about a 3a, and seems to be getting curlier by the day. There is still some hair underneath at the back that is straight: I expect that it will eventually get taken off by haircuts. At the front where her hair is a bit shorter, especially in this warm weather, it is very much tight corkscrews. It is still quite thin but getting thicker and I have very thick (but fine”> hair so it is possible she is heading in that direction. I’m at a loss as I’ve never dealt with hair like this. Initially we were washing it every night: I’ve just started a 2x a week regimen to see if that helps. We are using the Johnson’s curly hair no-tear shampoo/ conditioner. It gets VERY tangled though on account of being so fine, so we rinse it and then I spray some Johnson’s detangler in it and comb it through and let it dry. The tangles are tiny little knots so I don’t think detangling with fingers is an option. In the morning it is a huge, tangled frizzy mess, so I spray it with water and get it quite wet, then detangler and then I comb it. Sometimes I need to do it again after her nap. It still gets frizzy regardless. I’m open to any suggestions as far as conditioners etc, and any other help!

A: Your daughter’s hair is definitely “maturing,” just like the rest of her! It’s great that you recognize this & are changing your care regimen. Washing less often is definitely the right start. So many people over-wash their children’s hair. As for products, I think that the best thing to do is to experiment with different products and find what works best for you. If you aren’t happy with what you are currently using, try something else! I recommend the So Cozy line, which was created by the staff at Cozy’s Cuts For Kids in NYC. It was formulated specifically for children and is quite gentle and nourishing. The Fruity Delight Detangler is especially amazing!

As for the tangles, try putting in a loose braid or pony for her to sleep with at night to help prevent tangles, and try to keep her hair up during active times like sports or playground. Good luck!

Dear Cozy: My entire family are curly heads… One of the problems is that my youngest, who is 9 years old, pretty much has always had her hair either put into just a ponytail on top of back of her head or also braided. Now that we are trying to let our curls be free, her top part of her head and top layers are not really curling, they are just frizzy. I have been just conditioning her hair, have tried the lavender mist that Lorraine Massey suggests, but nothing is working. She is loving not having her hair up and braided. She is a very carefree spirit. Just do not know how to get her curls to start back in at this problem area. Any help or suggestions are welcome!

A: You may want to consult a hairstylist to see if a different haircut would help bring out the natural curl in her hair. Often times, when hair is too heavy, it weighs down the curls. A few long layers may solve that problem. As for the frizz, try a light styling cream to smooth the hair cuticle, but not weigh down the hair. Try So Cozy Kooky Kiwi Styling Cream, it’s light weight so it’s perfect for your daughter’s hair.

Dear Cozy: My 2-year-old has curly hair . . . it spirals mostly, although the sides of her hair nearest her face are mostly straight. I was told that might be lingering baby hair. Her hair continues to grow in more and more curly. When wet, it is half way down her back. When dry, it barely covers her shoulders.

I am having a difficult time keeping tangles away. Have been washing it only when I must, and using a baby conditioner on her hair every time I bathe her.

The biggest problem right now is that it becomes severely knotted every time she rides in her car seat—and has recently started breaking off in back. TONS of tiny little knots. Sometimes I am forced to cut them out, as I cannot remove them even after oiling her hair. Any advice on how to prevent the car seat problem?

A: Tangles are a huge problem for curly-haired kids! You need to know 2 things. First, you need to know how to deal with them when she has them and secondly, how to prevent them from happening in the first place!

For starters, try using a thick and creamy children’s conditioner like So Cozy Sweet Strawberry Conditioner. Apply a generous amount and then with the conditioner in her hair, comb through her hair with a wide tooth comb. The trick to doing that painlessly is to take small sections, one at a time and comb them, working one inch at a time from the bottom up. The real trick to keeping it painless is to hold the hair strand you are working on with one hand, while combing the bottom with the other. This will prevent tugging.

In between bathing, use So Cozy Fruity Delight Detangler to keep hair knot-free. Use the same combing method.

As for tangle prevention, wearing a loose braid or pony to bed at night will help a lot. Also, keeping her hair up during active times like during sports and playground time will help a lot, too.

One last piece of advice, the best way to deal with tangles is to constantly stay on top of them. Once you get too far gone, it’s nearly impossible to deal with without cutting the hair out.

There are many effective ways of correcting damaged hair. Once you recognize and understand the specific circumstances that need addressing, e.g. frizz, dryness, limp curls, breakage, severe chemical damage, humidity, wiry unruly hair and more, you can take steps to correct these conditions.

Styling becomes much easier, controllable, successful and predictable when you correct and maintain the proper condition of your hair.

Some people’s curly hair dries in minutes and other’s take more than twelve hours to dry. The ability to absorb moisture should be in balance with the ability to retain precious moisture. It is not necessary to moisturize hair that takes forever to dry. There are easier ways of conditioning or detangling without drowning your hair. I have discovered ingredients that perform effectively without involving the use of silicones. Some ingredients in our Curly Hair Solutions products are so effective that you will instantly notice their benefits. Others may only perform after a couple of extra applications. Some products may only be necessary during the summer months and others are only needed during the winter. Indoor heating can play havoc on some curls.

Have you been wondering how in the world someone got Willow Smith’s hair into a heart for her Whip My Hair video or where all of her colorful dos came from? What about what it’s like to work with the Smith family? Well you’re in luck! Tune in to www.livestream.com/mynappyroots at 11 p.m. Eastern time on October 26 to hear a live interview with Willow’s stylist, Marcia Hamilton.

If you haven’t seen the video yet, check it out so you know exactly what styles Marcia is talking about!

Dear Cozy: One of the problems I am having is my youngest, who is 9 years old, pretty much has always had her hair either put into just a ponytail on top of back of her head or also braided….Now that we are trying to let our curls be free, her top part of her head and top layers are not really curling, they are just frizzy. I have been just conditioning her hair, have tried the lavendar mist that Lorraine Massey suggests, but nothing is working. She is loving not having her hair up and braided. She is a very carefree spirit. Just do not know how to get her curls to start back in at this problem area. Any help or suggestions are welcome!

A: Your daughter’s hair will take some time to come into its own. Be sure to never brush her hair, and you’ll want to “scrunch” with an alcohol-free gel after bathing. Be sure to get as close to the roots as you can, to help encourage her natural curl to come out and to smooth the cuticle.

Dear Cozy: I have a 7-month-old son with dry, frizzy hair. I don’t really know his hair type, but it is between a 3c, 4a, or 4b (maybe a combination of the three”>. I am currently using a line of products for multi-racial children, but his hair still looks dry after a few hours. I only wash his hair maybe once a week or I even let a week and a few days go by before actually shampoo washing. What am I doing wrong? HELP!!!!

A: You need to keep his hair hydrated as much as possible. Try using a spray leave-in conditioner that you can apply whenever hair is feeling dry and dull. So Cozy Fruity Detangler is a favorite for kids because it smells so good and parents because it really works! Also, don’t was hair too often. Once or twice a week is fine.

Dear Cozy: My daughter has 3c type hair. All she does is wash and pull it into a top pony, and leaves it. It frizzes and falls out, never looks good. Drives my nuts, and she will not take advice from me. I have type 3, but hers is thicker and tighter curls then mine. I need help on how to help her deal with her hair. She has decided to go into the military, which means she needs to get a handle on this hair or she will have to go bald.

A: If she is going into the military, I’m assuming she won’t have much time to be styling her hair and will need to have a very carefree routine. What’s amazing is that curly hair can be super-easy to care for with the help of the right products. Most important for her hair is a great gel that she can “scrunch” into her hair after showering. If she allows hair to air dry, her natural curls will form. When hair is dry, she can scrunch a little finishing cream or a little more gel to help soften the curls and help to keep hair smooth.

Dear Cozy: My 5-year-old daughter, who I believe is a 3c, has never had a hair cut. Her hair now hangs only a few inches below her chin but it is down the middle of her back if I pull it straight when it’s wet. It’s hard to tell, but it sort of looks like it might be a little longer on one side than the other. I’m really hesitant to cut this hair because several people have told me that the key to taming it is allowing it to acquire more length. Still, when it is dry, it looks like a bush that needs shaping.

Should we just wait it out and hope that it calms down with more length or is there a kind of cut that is ideal for her hair type? The hair needs a gallon of product just to look the way it does in my avatar. It’s absolutely wild.

A: I agree that length will help prevent it from looking bushy, but a proper haircut for curly hair is imperative! You don’t have to cut a lot, but giving her a trim and shaping it up will make a tremendous difference. Be sure to find a stylist who is very experienced cutting curly hair. Search here to find a curl specialist in your area. Or you can call a salon and ask them who their best stylist is for curly hair or if you see someone with nice curly hair, ask them where they get their haircut.

In between all the emails about new fall colors and techniques for makeup, I noticed an interesting trend; an emphasis on skin that is “flawless”. You might have seen this featured in the September issue of “Allure” magazine. Not only does Laura Mercier have an ad campaign (What is flawless?”> within its pages, there is also an article (“Immaculate Complexion” by Elizabeth Siegal”> that aims to help you achieve the look.

Very few people have perfect skin past puberty—most of us get some kind of skin eruption in our teen years that cause blemishes that have the potential for scarring for years afterward. When I was a teenager, I had acne on my cheeks that left me with brown spots that lasted until well into adulthood; it took chemical peels in my early 40s to eliminate them completely. Before recent advances in foundation and concealer formulas, hiding imperfections like this usually required putting on a LOT of makeup—and it looked just plain awful!

The first step to flawless is finding a foundation that matches your skin exactly. This is sometimes easier said than done for those of us who are very, very pale or very, very dark. MAC has long been known for offering a good range of colors; Make Up For Ever has 26 shades available in their High Definition foundation alone; Illamasqua out of England has 16 shades starting at pure white; and Becca has 15 shades from Porcelain to Mink.

Makeup gurus Pat McGrath and Bobbi Brown both suggest the same thing to achieve the flawless look—warm liquid foundation in your hand and rub it into the areas of your face that need the coverage most using your fingers. I’ve done this for years and often get compliments on my less-than-perfect complexion.

The Mercier campaign features the company’s signature product—Secret Camouflage concealer. Concealer should go OVER foundation anywhere you need extra coverage; for most people that’s around the nose and under the eyes. It can also be dabbed on with the fingers, but for hiding blemishes, use a small, pointed concealer brush to apply the product, then blend with your fingers.

In the “Allure” article, Pat McGrath recommends applying highlighter strategically all over the face, not just at the corners of the eyes. She also suggests only applying powder to the T-zone instead of all over.

If you’re intent on being “practically perfect in every way”, you might want to consider a home airbrush makeup system. Luminess Air and Temptu are two makers of systems, the first available through QVC and The Shopping Channel (in Canada”>, the second available at Sephora. These systems sell for upwards of $150 US and have limited ranges of foundation that come with them. Temptu can only be used with their own “foundation pods” (2 for $55 US in 12 shades”>, but the Luminess system allows you to pour in any liquid foundation – a good thing since they also only have 12 shades of makeup available.

Once you’ve perfected your complexion, color news for this fall emphasizes neutrals for eyes. The Urban Decay Naked Palette has been selling out on their site and at Sephora since its introduction. It contains 12 beautiful neutrals in matte and softly shimmering formulas to take you from day to night.

And that’s my idea of perfect!

Check out this video for a quick and easy style!

The Curlisto Keratin Treatment is a new processes to straighten curly hair. It is done with all natural products and it takes only half the time that a regular keratin treatment takes. In addition, it does not contain any formaldehyde—a commonly used chemicas in keratin treatments.

That’s a picture of me!

I’m 50 years old—today if you’re reading this on August 2nd.

You know that Diane Lane commercial where she says she doesn’t want to look good for her age, she just wants to “look good”? For once, I’m going to be completely immodest and say that’s me on *both* accounts. People always think I’m much younger than I actually am. But if they saw my hands instead of my face, I think they’d figure it out pretty fast.

I have bathed in sunscreen for more than 30 years. The last time I remember getting too much sun was 27 years ago.

Over the past six-plus years, I have gone on about sunscreen many, MANY times in this space. There are those who disagree with me, often vehemently. And lately, there has been a sunscreen backlash with respect to the chemicals contained in those products and in their use of Vitamin A derivatives. Sure, Retin-A is great for your face, but it looks like Vitamin A in sunscreen could do more harm than good.

No matter what we’re using on our skin or putting in our bodies, it pays to be an informed consumer. Then it’s up to us to decide whether or not the associated risk is acceptable to us.

Which is how I made the decision to start using Botox for my forehead wrinkles a few years ago.

When I was a child and petrified of getting lock jaw from rusty metals, I probably would have gazed at you in astonishment if you had suggested that the adult me would willingly put inert botulinum toxin into my face. But when I was a child, no one told me that I had a bad habit of raising my eyebrows while I read; a habit that would get worse with the introduction of computers in later years.

It’s purely vanity, of course; I started doing it after being dumped by my long-time love. When you’re back on the dating market at the ripe old age of 47 and a half, you do what you have to do in order to compete with all the other eligible women out there.

Would I get a face lift? Probably not, but I won’t rule out a nose job—even at this point in my life.

As for aging “gracefully”, I see no problem in wanting to look “good” well into my 90s, should I live that long. I actually get a kick out of shocking people when they find out how old I am.

So what do I put on this face? The usual suspects are: Neutrogena Healthy Defense SPF 45 with Helioplex; Olay Regenerist Serum and MAC Cosmetics Select SPF foundation in shade NC20. I wash with whatever cleanser is on sale and a gentle brush I get at The Body Shop. I eat a lot of fresh berries and carry a parasol in the summer months.

I figure those should all carry me through the next 50 years!

Dear Cozy:

I need advice for VERY curly baby. My 6-month-old has TONS of hair and tons of curls. It is now starting to tangle and get very hard to separate. I am looking for a tear-free formula for a curly baby shampoo and conditioner. Can I also do a leave in for the baby or is 6 months too young? Thanks!

Dear Very Curly Kid:

Just so you understand, the reason to use specific products for babies is that these formulations address the specific needs of babies (sensitive skin, tear free, etc.”>. I would recommend that you keep baby’s hair short so that it is more manageable until your baby is old enough to use products that are formulated for older kids that address your child’s needs. If you do decide to continue to grow the hair and you want to use products such as a leave-in conditioner, I recommend that you test a little amount in a small area to be sure that no rash or sensitivity occurs.

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Dear Cozy:

My 5-year-old daughter, who I believe is a 3c, has never had a hair cut. Her hair now hangs only a few inches below her chin but it is down the middle of her back if I pull it straight when it’s wet. It’s hard to tell, but it sort of looks like it might be a little longer on one side than the other. I’m really hesitant to cut this hair because several people have told me that the key to taming it is allowing it to acquire more length. Still, when it is dry, it looks like a bush that needs shaping.

Should we just wait it out and hope that it calms down with more length or is there a kind of cut that is ideal for her hair type? The hair needs a gallon of product just to look decent. It’s absolutely wild.

Dear Hesitant to Cut:

I can’t stress the importance of a proper haircut for curly hair! I agree that longer hair styles can really help hair to grow down rather than out, but adding a few long layers can often do a world of good. Equally as important to a good haircut is using the right products. Keeping hair moisturized is critical. Using a good leave-in conditioner can do wonders to prevent that dried-out, frizzy hair. Try So Cozy Fruity Delight Detangler & Leave-in Conditioner.

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Dear Cozy:

My granddaughter is blended black and white with a combo 3b/3c hair. My daughter puts it in a ponytail everyday. JAM helps it to keep it from looking too wild by the end of the day but would like to find something better. My granddaughter would love to leave it down like a “princess” but it’s just a cotton ball by the end of the day. We wash her hair once a week with Pantene’s For Women of Color Shampoo and then use just the conditioner 2 or 3 times a week. It seems starved for moisture. We have put what seemed to be greasy conditioner on it after her bath and left it in. I thought her hair might look dirty the next day but it is totally absorbed. I’ve seen ads for Mixed Chicks and Blended Beauty products. I wonder if any of these products are worthwhile and if one brand is better than the other? Thanks for any advice!

Dear Curly Princess:

It sounds like your granddaughter needs some good hair products to help smooth out her hair and to keep hydrated. I don’t think the oily products are right for her hair. She needs more creamy type products. I would recommend deep conditioning once a month. You don’t need to buy any special products. Try So Cozy Sweet Strawberry Conditioner. It’s thick and creamy, and you can apply a generous amount in the tub, comb out hair while the conditioner is still in and then wrap hair on top of head and put a shower cap on. Keep on as long as possible or for at least 15 minutes. Also, when conditioning daily, don’t completely rinse the conditioner out of the hair on the ends. This will also help. Using a styling cream would also help lock in moisture.

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Dear Cozy:

My daughter has 2a hair and she likes to wear it long. Its easy to get the comb through a day or two after its washed but she gets very knotty at the ends, I can’t even get through it with a Tangle Teezer. I’m after a chemical free detangler that is also light on oils. I’ve seen Knottyboy on ebay but not sure how much oil is in it.

Dear Knotty Curly:

Most people don’t know how to properly comb hair to detangle. Believe it or not, you must start one inch from the ENDS of the hair, not the roots! Separate a small one inch section of hair and starting from the bottom, work your way up the strand, one inch at a time. I recommend that you use great detangler like So Cozy Fruity Delight Detangler or for heavy duty tangles, try So Cozy Lucky Lime Pre-Detangler while in the tub. Good luck!

In the beginning, there was wax.

Not the modern-day waxes found in hip tins stacked on salon shelves. These were waxy, soap-like substances invented thousands of years ago by the ancient Gauls to style their hair.

People have been experimenting with natural compounds to hold their hair in place since antiquity. Thanks to technology, the offerings available today are dramatically different than the gums, clays and shellacs once used to hold hair in place.

“Now, with products like Hercut Curly Catalyst, there’s a lot of movement, softer hair and more control,” says Maria Laguardia, senior vice president of product development of Hercut, who has spent more than a decade developing products for haircare and skincare companies. “The raw material companies come up with new polymers, and it’s our job as product developers to design technologies that are new and different and do what they say they’ll do.”

At Hercut, the motto is “if it’s not innovative, it’s not launching.”

“We think long and hard about every new product, with lots of testing,” she says. “If it’s been done, we’re not going to make it.”

Laguardia reflected on some of the most significant innovations in styling products—from film-formers to macromolecules.

“Innovation is available to all of us,” Laguardia says. “The mastery of your chemist is knowing how to put all the right ingredients together.”

Although styling products have been around in some form for hundreds of years, modern-day styling products got their start with the creation of resins and fixatives—products like Dippity-Do—a thick, translucent setting gel created by the Gillette Company.”Remember—a little Dippity-do gives you a lot of hold,” read the original label.

While these products were a major advance, they often created a “helmet-head,” and they often contained a lot of drying alcohol.

“They controlled the hair, but they weren’t touchable or pleasant,” Laguardia says.

Film Formers: Gels began to evolve in the ’70s and ’80s thanks to the creation of film formers created by companies like ISP, Dow Corning and Croda.

Hair fixative polymers such as polyquaterniums generally function by forming films that spot-weld and seam-weld the hair in the desired style. These tiny welds suffer enormous stresses due to the natural movement of the hair. Therefore, resilient, tough polymeric materials are required for this purpose.

“Imagine Seran Wrap shrinking tightly around each hair,” Laguardia explains. “These polymers are ultra-lightweight and completely shiny.”

In recent years, more modern polymers have emerged that are based on a resin, but are more lightweight.

Glycerin: Glycerin is a coveted ingredient when it comes to feeding our curls the moisture they crave. Glycerin is a sweet-tasting, colorless, thick liquid that comes from animal or vegetable fats in the soap-making process. Most beauty products now use the vegetable source as the emollient. Glycerin is one of those ingredients that plays well with others and can also fairly easily be compounded in most products.

Silicones: The 1980s also saw the development of silicone by Dow Corning. These silicones played a major role in product development for curlier, kinkier textures, providing the ability to condition, soften and manage the hair as well as to add shine. The amino-functional polymers and fluid emulsion silicone forms first appeared in products such as John Frieda Frizz-Ease and Pert Plus.

More recently, silicone elastomer dispersions were introduced to the market and gave formulators the ability to create new types of products. Today, silicones are found in all types of personal care products, and are available in a wide variety of formulas, including lightweight varieties that flash-off with heat.

Hair Mousse: Hair mousse first hit the scene in the mid-1980s, with the creation of Free Hold by L’Oreal. Although many mousses were designed to create volume, they provided curlies with a lighter, softer hold. Water and alcohol are typically the primary ingredients of mousses, although additional ingredients may include polymers, oils or smoothing agents such as dimethicone.

Aerosol mousses hold the liquid contained inside under pressure. When released, the liquid reacts with the air and is no longer under pressure, creating a foaming action. Non-aerosol forms typically utilize a specialized dispenser that encourages the foaming action when released into the hand.

Products specifically for curly hair: Curly Queen Ouidad is credited with first creating products for curly hair, with the creation of her Deep Treatment. The evolution of curly hair products got a boost in the 1987, when Bob Salem, then brand manager for L’Oreal’s new Pumping Curls Line, walked into a Duane Read Drug store. Salem overheard a conversation among two women discussing their hair, with the curly-haired customer lamenting the fact that there were no styling products designed for her curls.

“This reality and marketing insight led to the creation of the Pumping Curls brand product and benefits never before experienced,” Salem says.

From Pumping Curls, Salem discovered that there were many curl styling needs for girls—and guys—with curls, and soon he developed the Studio Line Gelling Curls, Springing Curls and Curly Mousse.

Salem, creator of the Hercut line, now is working on a new generation of curl styling products designed to style curly haircuts.

Macromolecules: Salem and Laguardia designed their own macromolecules for the new Hercut Curly Bob and Curly Long Layers Catalyst styling products using molecules and polymers. A macromolecule is a very large molecule, which helps provide the functions need to support different haircuts. Each Catalyst contains a gel-like component and a cream component that combine to control, repair and smooth the hair. Curly Catalyst Bob contains the Elevate-Ion Polymer, a macromolecule that wraps around the hair like a corkscrew.

“When the hair and polymer starts to dry, the hair springs up,” Laguardia says.

The Long Layers Curly Catalyst contains the Attract-Ion Polymer, a macromolecule that creates a mesh-like matrix that provides control.

“The curl looks more cohesive rather than frizzy,” she says. “With this technology, you have control in the hair, but it’s touchable.”

Laguardia believes the future holds great possbility for new, innovative styling products.

“We’ll see softer hair and more control with lots of movement and fluidity—even with hairspray,” she says. “We’re continuing to move that way at Hercut. We want the hair to look alive. There’s a lot of opportunity.”

The month just past is one of total opposites in the makeup business.

On the one hand, the emails landing in my inbox from all the major companies say things like:

Are You Camera-Ready for The Big Day?

Wedding Season Must-Haves</p>

While days later, the emails have subject lines like:

Let Your Beauty Soar With Our Summer Collection

Order the Summer Essentials Kit

Protect Your Summer Skin Today

(I especially like the last one, but you knew that already.”>

Wedding makeup tends to favor subtle, natural shades designed to enhance your features. The finishes are sheer or gently shimmering instead of glossy or sparkly, which can reflect light back to the camera and wash you out. Waterproof is probably also a good idea if you’re going to be outside in heat and humidity or are prone to crying tears of happiness on such occasions. And a long-wear lipstick formula should maintain your color through even the longest receiving line.

Some products to try for your wedding look:

• Smashbox Photo Finish Primer
• Tarte Blushing Bride Cheek Stain
• Stila It Girl eye shadow palette – 3 neutrals including Kitten
• MAC Pro Long-Wear Lipstick in For Keeps
• Too-Faced Metal-Eyed Liquid Shimmer eyeliner in Brown Sugar

If you want to use your own favorites for your big day, Benefit She-Laq can be applied over your lips to make your lipstick last, or spray on Urban Decay All-Nighter Makeup Setting Spray lightly over everything.

Conversely, beach beauty seems to be all about bronzing, high shine, extreme color and melting at the edges.

We know you’re protecting your skin from the ravages of the sun with sunscreens containing broad spectrum protection so you’ll be looking for bronzers to give yourself a “beachy glow”.

PPPs should look for golden shades to avoid looking dirty. The darker your skin tone, the darker the shade of bronzer you can wear. One to try: Too-Faced Aqua Bunny Crème to Powder Splash Proof Bronzer – $28 US

Along with waterproof mascara, long-lasting eye liners are a better bet to outsmart humidity than eye shadow. Bright colors seem to be a staple at all the major makeup companies, like MAC Float on By Eye Kohl (yes, it’s turquoise!”> – $17.50 Cdn.

Brights or bronzes are also in for the nails – take a look at OPI for Sephora Havana Nights nail polish minis – $18 US. The four colors contained in this set are bronze, bright orange, pale green and deep teal.

Lip stains last longer than lipsticks or glosses. Benetint is the grandmother of all stain products, but most makeup companies have one in their product line these days. The Italian company Tokidoki has the Fantastico Lip Stain that comes in five shades. Try Cactus Friends for $15 US at Sephora in North America.

For the less daring or those who prefer their summer beauty on the softer (bridal”> side, DuWop has a product called Angel Washes – sheer tints for eyes, cheeks and lips, set of 3 (pink, peach and gold”> for $27.

It’s June and this is usually the month that I write about sunscreen. Since I have some good news to report on the “sun front” and I got distracted by the “60 Minutes” piece on pthalates in everything including makeup, I’m presenting you with a bit of a hodge podge in this column.

Everything is good for you, if it doesn’t kill you – Part One

The iconic news magazine program 60 Minutes aired an episode on May 23 that included a segment about pthalates; esters of phthalate acid that are used to soften plastics in a variety of products like toys and shower curtains among others. Turns out that pthalates are also used in the cosmetics industry as a binding agent for nail polish or to make hair conditioner more emollient.

In high doses—way higher than those the average human encounters over a lifetime—lab rats showed evidence of hormone changes and birth defects due to pthalates. There is NO CONCLUSIVE PROOF that they have the same effect in humans, but pthalates are thought to play a role in obesity, insulin resistance, allergies, ADHD and low birth weight in babies.

It would be next to impossible to eliminate plastics and pthalates from your life. They are in just about EVERYTHING you come in contact with during the day. However, manufacturers of many products are starting to take notice and are taking steps to reduce the use of these chemicals. When it comes to beauty products, if excessive exposure to pthalates is a concern of yours, switch to offerings from Burt’s Bees, Tarte or Kiss My Face.

Everything is good for you, if it doesn’t kill you – Part Two

After years of hearing how using sunscreen protects us from the harmful UV radiation of the sun, there has been a backlash in recent years: one camp stating that sunscreen itself is bad for you, another stating that we’re depriving ourselves of needed vitamin D through too much sunscreen usage.

Sunscreen has chemicals—and some chemicals are bad for you (see above”>. It is up to you, as the consumer, to decide if the chemicals are more scary to you than UV radiation. Speaking as someone with a family history of skin cancer, and knowing personally how awful it feels to have lesions removed from one’s face, I would much rather take my chances with the sunscreen. Chemically-speaking, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are safer physical sun blocks, although they do give your skin a whitish cast, as if you were a character in a Japanese “Noh”. Try Blue Lizard and Badger Healthy Body Care sunscreens.

There is no doubt that vitamin D is required for good health, and there is also no doubt that getting it from sun exposure is better for us than trying to ingest enough from food sources. Dr. Michael Holick, author of The UV Advantage, has detailed tables available in his book about how much sun exposure you really need depending on where you live in the world and your skin tone. Caucasians need only FIVE TO TEN minutes of exposure to the sun two or three times a week in order to make sufficient vitamin D in northern latitudes. The closer you live to the equator, the less you need.

So, What’s the Good News?

A study conducted in Alberta, Canada, has found that skin cancer rates leveled off and started dropping a decade ago. This is in contrast to earlier studies that found that skin cancer rates were rising around the world, even as more potent sun screen products became available. The Canadian Dermatology Association believes that this study can most likely be applied to our population as a whole.

Practice safe sun!

At the London premiere of Sex in the City 2 on May 27, it did our hearts proud to see that all four of the leading ladies were wearing some variation of curls or waves. While Cynthia Nixon, Sarah Jessica Parker and Kristin Davis donned loose waves, Kim Cattrall took it back to old Hollywood with gorgeous loose, blond curls.

Sarah Jessica Parker (Carrie”> wore a black, strapless Alexander McQueen gown with an elaborate hat created by Phillip Treacy. Cynthia Nixon (Miranda”> wore a turquoise Narciso Rodriguez gown with Christian Leboutin shoes. Kristin Davis (Charlotte”> wore a shimmery gold and silver number by Norman Norell which she paired with Jimmy Choo shoes. Kim Cattrall (Samantha”> wore a vintage black Thierry Mugler gown with Manolo Blahnik shoes.

The ladies all in all looked stunning from head to toe.

— Toree Roy

Dear Cozy:

I’m looking for advice on how to determine the best way to care for my son’s curly hair. Do I try to determine his hair’s porosity, texture and type first? My main issue is how to moisturize his hair.

Dear Caring Curly:

It seems that you have already figured out your priorities! Dry, brittle hair is always a top priority. Be sure not to shampoo too often, which can dry out hair. It’s the most common mistake parents make. Shampoo twice a week. Next, be sure to use a good, creamy conditioner. My secret tip is to leave a little conditioner in on the ends, rather than completely rinsing out. This will help condition and protect hair. Of course a good spray leave-in conditioner is always helpful for dry and brittle hair. Try So Cozy Fruity Delight Leave-In Conditioner & Detangler. Kids love the fruity fragrance and parents love the paraben-free formulation!

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Dear Cozy:

I have a 2-year-old daughter with soft, curly hair. Every morning we have battles with combing as during the night sleeping her hair becomes something like a cage.

We’ve been using Faith in Nature products for shampooing and Gliss Kur (Schwarzkopf”> for combing. But I’m a natural cosmetics fan and don’t want to ‘poison’ her with chemicals, additives and similar stuff. I’d be grateful if you could advise us about some natural products that can be bought in Europe.

Dear Caged Curly:

Tangles can be torture! Try to prevent them, rather than just learning how to deal with them. Be sure to put your daughter’s hair up in a loose pony or braid before bed. This will help a lot. Also, keep her hair up in pony’s or braids when she is playing and active. This, too, will help prevent tangles. I’m not as familiar with the European products, but look for formulations that are Sodium Laurel/Laureth and Paraben free. (Or please note that CurlMart ships to Hungary.”>

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Dear Cozy:

My oldest inherited my curly hair, or so I thought. She is 9 and the older she gets, the straighter her hair is. I can bring out some wave in it, but what happened to the curls? Is this normal for some curlies? Her hair is down past her shoulders right now. I am considering cutting it shorter with some long layers. Her hair also tends to frizz and look unkempt as the day goes by. My two younger daughters (4 and 6″> have some waves but their hair is also much smoother.

Dear Growing Out of Curls:

It is very possible that her hair texture is changing. This happens to all of us as we go through life. Another possibility is that the cut she has is not encouraging her natural curls. If you want it curlier, long layers would be a great idea. To prevent frizz and messy-looking hair, try So Cozy Kooky Kiwi Styling Cream. You can use it on wet or dry hair. Just rub a nickel-sized amount of product through hair with fingers, being sure to evenly distribute. This will keep hair smooth and shiny. It’s ok to use as a touch-up at the end of the day if needed.

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Dear Cozy:

My little sister (6 years old”> is biracial; our mom is Caucasian and her dad is from the Ivory Coast. When she was really little, her hair was great and we had no problems managing it at all, but as she gets older, it seems to get worse and worse. She REALLY wants to have long, straight hair, but her hair is fluffy and dry and curly near her scalp, but she hasn’t had a trim or a cut in a while (actually, I don’t think she’s really ever had one”> and the ends are straight and fried. I’m trying to encourage her to leave it natural, however, and we’re running into problems. My mom used to use relaxing cream on it, and she straightens it or curls it when she goes to school. As of right now, my mom uses pink lotion and this carrot cream stuff and we try leave-ins and I’ve even tried to convince my mom to start the no shampoo method with her, but nothing helps. I even tried shingling about an hour ago. Also, her hair is very thick, so it tangles REALLY EASILY.

My sister’s hair is unmanageable, and we have no idea what to do with it to make look and feel better and healthier! Help please!

Dear Tangled Curly:

As the saying goes “the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence”! I can personally relate to this. I, too, always wanted long, straight hair, but my hair had a different plan! After many, many years of blow drying my hair straight and suffering through bad hair days when there was the slightest amount of humidity in the air, i finally embraced my curly locks. What was key for me was learning how to make my curly hair look good, rather than a fuzzy, frizzy mess. I applaud you for writing on your sister’s behalf, you have already taken the first important step. You need to educate her (and yourself and your mom”> as to the best way to manage her curly locks, to enhance the curls, rather than trying to hide them! First step is a good haircut by someone who understands curly hair. The proper cut will work wonders and get rid of all the damaged hair. Discuss with the stylist product choices and options for her hair type. Hair styles that pull the hair back like poys or braids are great options for preventing tangles. For really bad tangles, use So Cozy Pre-Detangler in the bath with a wide toothed comb. This will help remove tangles with out the pain. Good luck!

White Sands founder Fernando Salas has spent his life finding solutions for every hair issue. So when it comes to frizz—summer’s biggest hair challenge for curlies—he has plenty of great tips. With the right tools, he says, frizz need not put a damper on your summer fun.

1. Frizz prevention starts with how you care for your curls. Many curl types have less ability to hold moisture, making the hair dry and frizzy. Treat your parched curls with White Sands ER Fusion, an intensive reconstructive hair treatment which restores hair back to its youthful condition.

2. Never rub your wet hair with a terry cloth towel, says Salas. It will roughen up the cuticle, causing frizz. “Squeeze the hair dry with a microfiber towel or a t-shirt,” Salas says.

3. Before you apply your styling product, apply Porosity the Fix. Porosity acts the same way as foundation and concealer do on the skin to temporarily fill in the blemishes found in each strand, creating the impression of illuminating, flawless tresses.

4. Choosing the right styling product is key, especially for achieving the curly look you want. For frizz-free, ropey curls, Salas recommends White Sands Curl Up in Silk Medium Hold or Curl Up in Silk Firm Hold Mousse. The molecules in the product have been engineered like a magnet to help the curls clump together, creating defined curls and closing the cuticle layer to prevent frizz. For those with coarser, tighter curls, Salas suggests layering White Sands Designer Gel over the mousse.

To keep your locks frizz-free all day, apply a finishing product like White Sands Liquid Texture Soft Hold, designed specifically for scrunching the hair, adding moisture and maintaining curls all day without crunch. “It creates a breathable skin,” says Salas. For frizz control throughout the day, apply White Sands Smudge Texture Creme, a water-based pomade that uses clear color molecules for shine rather than oils silicones. It can be used on wet or dry hair.

American Idol contestant Crystal Bowersox has focused attention once again on the ancient art of locking, perhaps causing many Americans to look at the hairstyle with fresh eyes.

“I’ve had these for about four and a half years now,” Bowersox told AccessHollywood.com in March. “I do wash my hair— just so everyone knows. There’s a lot of myths out there about dreadlocks, but they’re very clean and well-kept.”

A story about Bowersox’s hair on Stylelist.com attracted comments ranging from compliments (”they fit her perfectly””> to critical (”disgusting and distracting,” “horrible” and “[she] looks like a pothead””>. One poster summed up voter expectations this way: “You keep those dreadlocks and be happy, but you won’t win ‘American Idol’ with that look—do you really think [fourth season winner] Carrie Underwood would have won if she looked like Crystal?”

With the renewed attention on locs, we thought it was a good time to present a primer on this hairstyle.

The Roots of Locs

Not long ago the main places you would see locs (sometimes called dread locks”> was in Africa or the Caribbean, particular Jamaica. For the Rastafarians of Jamaica, the Shaivas (devotees to Shiva”> and Vaishnavas (devotees to Vishnu”> of India and numerous clans in Africa including the Turkana, Massai, Samburu of Kenya, Himba of Namibia, Fulani of Senegal and the Baye Fall (Black Muslims”> locked hair is not a hairstyle, it is a reflection of a way of life, grounded by culture, tradition and most of all spirituality. Just as many different cultures have hair locking traditions so too does this distinctive way of wearing the hair have diverse names including Natty Dreads (Rastafarians”>; Ndiagne (strong hair”> and Jatta (gurus of India”>.

Many people of Jamaican and African heritage have migrated and now live on the East Coast in and around New York City. It is in New York that locked hair took a hold on popular culture, transcending its traditional connection to spirituality and faith to become a cultural statement with all people. Acclaimed author Alice Walker has worn locs for many years and so have other artists including Bob Marley and Whoopi Goldberg.

In the beautifully illustrated book “Dreads,” Francesco Mastalia and Alfonse Pagano (Artisan: NY; 1999″> interviewed people from around the world about why their hair is worn in what they call ‘dread locks.’ (Today, most people reject the combination of terms ‘dread’ ‘lock’ because it has negative connotations, particularly because of the word dread, which evokes fear.”> As might be expected there was a wide range of reasons, from strong faith-based cultural tradition, to easy grooming, attraction to the style and everything in between.

Decisions, Decisions

Since this web site is devoted to those with naturally curly hair regardless of ethnicity or cultural orientation, this article is focused on care and the spiritual cultivation of locs along with some of the issues that arise from taking on a hairstyle with such a rich and sometimes controversial history.

There are various schools of thought within the curly topped community. Some folk long for straight hair and lean towards the tools, chemicals and techniques that will give the desired affect. Others absolutely adore their curly locks and wouldn’t have their hair any other way. These folks seek out products and techniques that will accentuate their curls or leave their hair to do what it will. Still others like their naturally curly hair but wish for an easier grooming regimen. For those individuals looking for relatively easy grooming and a natural look that is a throw back to Africa or seeking connection to earth-based spiritual wisdom from around the world, locs are an ideal choice.

Many people, including myself, enjoy naturally curly hair but find a variety of challenges with maintenance of curly locks. Issues include the expense of products that promise to manage, enhance or accentuate curly hair but often fall short. Curly hair, particularly of the densely coiled nature of African-descended people, is very resistant to change. While there are many excellent products on the market, many of which are discussed on this website, African curls tend to have a mind of their own. Our curls naturally coil around each another, producing tangles. We don’t have a hold on this phenomena because people of various ethnicities have tightly curled or even wiry hair.

Many of us spend hours and indeed years as well as thousands of dollars to manage or prevent tangles. If we keep our hair short it is lovely and generally manageable. This is an ideal situation for tightly curled hair. The tangles of shorter hair are easier to manage but they can become quite a bit more challenging with longer hair. The battle of the tangles, or as we typically call them, naps, leads to breakage. Long nappy hair that is tightly curled often becomes uneven, damaged and ultimately frustrating. For individuals with tightly curled hair that tends to tangle, snarl or nap up, locs are an ideal choice, particularly if you also desire longer hair.

Another type of person (and some of these people have straight hair”> admire the look of locs and its strong cultural ties to traditions India, Africa and the Caribbean. I mention the straight-haired folks because quite an industry has developed around giving folks with straighter hair locs. According to interviews featured in “Dreads,” some Japanese people who have incredibly straight hair spend thousand of dollars and many hours, even subjecting their hair to power tools, to quickly achieve locked hairs. I have also spotted a plethora of websites online dispensing advice for transforming straight hair into locs. Many of these methods are dubious and may include a wide array of junky materials including toothpaste, rubber bands, beeswax, thick hair pomades and various types of glue. In “Dreads” there are all types of locs including a striking blond woman from New Zealand and a glamorous woman who appears to be bi-racial or of African descent, with waves close to her scalp that cascade down her back in zigzagging fall of locs. There is another man who is fair-haired and fair-skinned, who describes himself as being a Viennese Jew, who found that his hair locked naturally. He is featured sporting long, mature locks in the photo montage. Certain groups of Indians devoted to the goddess Ganga as manifested by the Ganges River have naturally straight hair. Their cultural tradition has included the cultivation of locs and this has been their tradition for thousands of years. While the majority of those who wear locs have thick, tightly coiled hair, it is certainly feasible and indeed traditional for people with various hair types to enjoy locks without resorting to extremes.

One thing for everyone to keep in mind when deciding whether or not to lock the hair is that once locs are mature (about two years old”>, the hair stays locked. With few exceptions, the hair has to be cut to change it although it can be color treated for a cosmetic change or curled for variety .

Grooming with Spirit, Purpose and Patience

Patience is another issue that arises even for those with ideal hair for locs, which would be hair that is tightly curled without any chemical straighteners. For these individuals locs can take at least six months to become permanent for those with looser curls or wavy hair it could take two years. If you can be mindful and focus on the end result this time will be a part of a larger metamorphosis, a change within that allows change to occur at its own rate. For more on that type of personal transformation, I recommend the books by the Vietnamese monk Thich Nhat Hanh, especially, “The Miracle of Mindfulness” (Beacon Books, MA; 1999″> or the ancient text “Tao Te Ching” by Lao Tsu (Vintage, NY; 1989″>. Some people will find yoga and meditation especially helpful as well because it encourages a focus within rather than on outward appearance. There are several African-American women writers who combine African wisdom with health and spiritual awareness that would be useful in this journey, they include “Heal Thyself for Health and Longevity” and “Sacred Woman” by Queen Afua; “Jambalaya: the Natural Women’s Book of Personal Charms and Practical Rituals” by Leisah Teish and my own magical guide that will be released this June (see bio”>.

Social and Psychological Implications

The appearance of locked hair evokes a wide variety of responses. Some people find locs suggestive of the counter-culture or to be radically different from their personal orientation. If these people exert control over your life perhaps your parents, administrators, advisors or a boss at work, you will need to enter a meaningful conversation during your transformation. Sometimes there are so many issues that go much deeper than hair that a conversation may have been long overdue. Talking can help strengthen and develop stronger ties. You will need to weigh your priorities and if it turns out that your priority is the locked hair and those around you strongly reject the idea, you will need to evaluate how to proceed. For some people the idea of confrontation is so overwhelming that they will decide not to loc their hair to avoid it. Still others will let their hair loc knowing that there may be negative consequences. This is a personal choice and it should be considered carefully, particularly if definite consequences of a negative type are anticipated. On the one hand, it would seem foolish to loc the hair knowing that it will also lead to unemployment or some other form of tangible rejection. If however the urge is so strong perhaps more elements of your life than just your hair needs to be changed dramatically, for example seeking employment elsewhere where the hair wouldn’t be problematic, finding alternative sources of employment or developing new relationship that fit into your lifestyle.

The Nitty-Gritty

Once you decide to loc your hair you will, of course, need more than anything to be patient. I started my locs; or rather they started themselves, approximately a year ago. They are still not all the way locked because my curls are loose. I twist them regularly but not fanatically and I see a loctian when possible. A good loctian is indispensable especially early on in the process when the locs are being established. She will clean your scalp well, condition your hair, re-part your hair and carefully twist or roll the hair. Having a skilled loctian is a great way of keeping a very neat look.

One of the most highly recommended technical books for those trying to establish locs is “Plaited Glory: For Colored Girls Who’ve Considered Braids, Locks and Twists” by Lonnice Brittenum Bonner (Three Rivers Press, NY; 1996″>. In another popular book, “No More Lye: The African American Woman’s Guide to Natural Haircare,” Tulani Kinard gives practical advice for beginning locs naturally. Kinard advises readers to part the hair evenly in small pieces of about ½” and to either palm roll, twist or braid each segment tightly. These twists or braids should be left alone for at least one month. After this time period the hair can be washed, with an emphasis on cleansing the scalp, rather than the hair itself. Some people cleanse their scalp with natural herbs like a witch hazel tincture in between shampoos to feel fresher. After about one month the hair is shampooed re-rolled or twisted, held down with hair clips and dried under a hair dryer or naturally in sunlight. This is repeated for many months until the hair is permanently locked. According to Kinard the ideal method is for a hollow core to form at the center of each loc and for the hair to be encouraged to curl around this core. This allows light and airy locs, that move freely and have a natural sheen that are also easy to clean. The problem with the quick and easy method, particularly those promoted for use on straighter hair is that the hair gets irreparably dirty and by using grease or wax the locs actually become dirt magnets. Moreover there is not a natural, light and airy hollow core to the hair, it is simply clumped together and can be quite unattractive.

I am a do-it-yourself type. I had been wearing two-stranded twists for about three years and when they started to lock up I embraced the possibility of physical transformation. Eventually, I did seek out the expertise of several loctians and I was grateful to have some of the messy areas sorted out. You can find a loctian in most major cities and typically they advertise as Natural Haircare Salons. There are numerous products available to help manage your locs though it is a personal choice, just like the decision whether or not to consult a loctian. Generally, less is more with locs. My loctian who is an Ibo person from Nigeria, even warns against naturally oily ingredients like shea butter or lanolin for loc maintenance because they weigh down the locs and attract dirt.

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About the Author: Stephanie Rose Bird (BFA, MFA”> is an herbalist and aromatherapist based in the Chicago area. She is also the author of several books including “Big Book of Soul: the Ultimate Guide to the African American Spirit” and “A Healing Grove: African Tree Remedies and Rituals for Body and Spirit”.

Here’s a column I never thought I’d write…

I think I’m make-up’d out!

And it’s also all because of my favourite makeup company.

I don’t know what’s gotten into the folks at the Estee Lauder Companies, but this year it seems like MAC is putting out a new collection every second or third week. And I dutifully run off to the store to look at yet another batch of brown or purple or blue eye shadows and the many gradations of pink and coral and red for the lips.

Then I visit the closest department store that carries all the other brands—from which I also get email updates—to see their latest offerings.

Due to this column, I get inundated with make up news from every major player in the North American market and substantial numbers of smaller ones; in addition to a number of European lines that I’ve found in stores here in Canada. On any given day, at least five messages arrive in my email. And when holiday weekends approach that number can be tripled or quadrupled.

There’s also an increase in cross-marketing that adds to the email traffic and crowded store shelves. For example, Mattel partnered with Stila last year for collections designed to celebrate Barbie’s 50th birthday. They had previously partnered with MAC for the Barbie Loves MAC collection—complete with doll. (Yes, I do have the doll!”> Nail polish giant OPI has designed a collection for the movie blockbuster Alice in Wonderland, as has Urban Decay. OPI is also offering a collection to tie in with this summer’s Shrek sequel.

While make up companies often pair with fashion designers who don’t have their own makeup lines—like the late Alexander McQueen, Lilly Pulitzer, Emmanuel Ungaro and Zandra Rhodes—other collaborations seem to be odd matches. For example, Hello Kitty (which apparently does have its own make up line in Japan”> and French graffitti artist Fafi.

I can always count on Bobbi Brown to produce yet another plain brown eye shadow, but there are only so many of those one can use. And so many of the special collections seem to feature brights that are way in my past.

For the past four years, I’ve been managing all this from a small city where Sephora has yet to open.

But… that’s going to change next month!

My makeup blues aside, here are some things you might want to look at for your mom for Mother’s Day next weekend:

Benefit has the April Showers Collection—a selection of their standard products including She-Laq, Silky Finish lipstick in Candy Store and Creaseless Cream eye shadow in Venetian Brown. Stila has a special Mother’s Day Set with an exclusive eye shadow trio, a lip glaze and their new One Step Prime Color primer ($38 US at stilacosmetics.com”>. Laura Mercier has released her summer bronzing collection ahead of the competition and Urban Decay has released a new fragrance oil they call Revolver – top notes of lychee and pineapple leaf followed by fig over a base of amber and musk ($26 US at urbandecay.com”>.

Justin finishes up Neelam’s look with a quick 5-minute, glam face so she can be ready for her night on the town.