Search Results: Cozy Friedman

Last month I was in Paris performing a show with my team and I noticed that there were a lot of reds and blondes – as well as combinations of the two. All the designers were trying to come up with new styles for haircuts and colors. But many times, what is considered trendy doesn’t necessarily look good on everyone. So please make your choices and decisions carefully to prevent becoming a fashion victim. Take time to research how you can adapt the latest trends to your hair. Take pictures to your stylist and have a consultation before your actual hair appointment. Your cut or style will be a success, you will feel good about it when you walk out of the salon, and you will have a fashionable style that compliments your hair’s texture and your face structure.

Q: I have yet to find a hair cut that compliments my hair type. I have slightly wavy hair that is thick, and medium in texture with a great tendency to frizz. I want your opinion on the best length, style of cutting, etc., to minimize frizz. I’m not concerned with emphasizing curl.My goal is reducing volume, defining what waves I have and possibly eliminating frizz. Thanks very much for your help and time.

— Temira

Christo: Every texture is unique and pretty in its own way. You just need to have the right style. The most important step is to care for you hair before you go to your stylist. Start by using a deep conditioner like Curlisto Deep Therapy Masque once every two weeks. That alone will treat the frizziness and dryness. Then visit your stylist to see what the best possible styles are for you — short, medium or long — while considering the texture of the hair and the structure of the face. If you hair is as thick as you described it, definitely texturize the inner layers of the hair to reduce volume. It can be done with scissors, but do not use a razor if your hair is really curly. As far as length goes, your hair can be sexy and fun regardless of how long it is. The longer your hair is, the less the volume your hair will have. The last step after finishing the cut is to ask your stylist how to style hair and what styling tools you’ll need. For example, we use Bio Gel Mousse on wavy hair to style and Unruly Paste for the finishing.

Q: I have just learned to love my curly hair. One of the biggest things I learned is not to brush or use small combs, and to be careful about breaking my hair strands. Unfortunately, I don’t have a hairdresser who really knows about curly hair, and when I went to get my hair colored they combed thru it when it was dry and they really pulled on it. She said that was the only way to get the color thru it. Is that correct? Is there a better way to apply color? (I am coloring over gray”>.Suggestions please!

Christo: You are right not to brush dry curly hair or to use any fine-toothed combs. Yet finger combs have very wide teeth. To get the best possible color, the team at Christo Fifth Avenue uses the following techniques.Wet the hair down, condition it and use Deep Therapy Masque for 10 minutes without heat.Rinse it out, towel it dry and squeeze the water out.Apply color for 20 to 30 minutes, then shampoo out; reapply Botanical Rinse and Deep Therapy Masque for soft, shiny curls. The hair will be as healthy as it was before coloring it.

Q: I have very thick, curly, frizzy and puffy hair. I tried gel and mousse but it doesn’t work and it makes my hair ‘hard’ and even bigger. I am tired of wearing my hair in a pony tail. I just want my hair to be smaller and not so curly. Please tell me what products should Iuse to get rid of the puffiness. I really need your help. Sylvia

Christo: Let’s get you off to a good start. First, ask yourself if you’ve been treating your hair the right way. If not, please follow these instructions:
Deep condition every other week.Shampoo your hair no more than once a week.Condition with a conditioner like Curlisto Botanical Rinse at least every other dayMake sure your cut is right for your curls.Make sure the styling tools you’re using are right for your curls. If so, make sure you’re using them correctly. If your hair is very curly, it may have nothing to do with the way you’re styling it, but you can make your hair smoother by following these steps.

1. Use a conditioner every day.

2. Shampoo once a week.

3. Prepare wet hair with a leave-in conditioner like Curlisto.

4. Repair Styling Cream.

5. Mix a quarter-size styling lotion like Structura Lotion with a dime size of a gel like Control II, which has more hold. Apply to your hair section by section, with at least five sections.

6. Use your fingers to comb it through. When the hair is almost dry, diffuse it and finish with a pomade like Unruly Paste. Apply the paste to your fingertips and run your palm on top of your curls. Spray with a hairspray like Structura Spray to finish it.

Q: I have coarse, thick hair and no matter what I do and where I go, no one seems to be able to help me. I have had more than my share of ‘bad hair’ days. I can’t get my hair to do a thing except frizz, which makes me look like a bad perm. Can you recommend any help to me? — Sheri

Christo: Follow these simple step before you pay a visit to any salon.

• Use a deep conditioner every other week.
• Do not shampoo more than once a week.
• Use a lotion and a gel, applying a mixture of half an half.
• Apply the mixture to sections, starting at the bottom and going to the top. Diffuse it dry. Do not touch it while it’s drying. Use a dime-size dab of Finishing Pomade and smoth it out by twisting your hair into a ponytail. Your hair will feel soft and sleek.

Q: I am 16 years old, and I have a serious hair dilemma. I have A LOT of hair — possibly too much hair. It seems normal at the roots, but the ends are VERY dry. I wouldn’t say it’s exactly curly, it’s more wavy. I know you specialize on curly hair, but could you please help me learn how to tame my waves? They’re kind of looser at the top, but become S-shaped toward the bottom. I like my wavy hair, and I really don’t want to lose it. I just wish it was easier to handle. It’s driving me insane, so could you please help me? — Natasia

Christo: A mixture of hair types is very common. As a start, deep condition your hair once a week to eliminate the frizziness and dryness. As far as styling goes, use a styling lotion like Structura Lotion for wavier hair and Bio-Gel Mousse on less wavy hair. When you are diffusing your hair, scrunch your hair where the hair is less wavy, or pull on the hair where it’s wavier to match your texture.

Q: Is there a product that will keep moisture away from hair to prevent the frizzies? I start out great in the morning. But I live in an area where it rains a lot and as soon as humidity hits — frizz! I don’t even look like the same person sometimes! I get by sometimes by wearing a hat, but that is bad too because it flattens out the curls. — Linda

Christo: I would recommend one of our high-humidity gels, like Curlisto Control I or Control II, which stop your hair from frizzing. They also will provide you with great hold and strengthen your curls. They include ingredients such as hydrolyzed soy, protein, wheat protein, pathenol and more than 10 different botanical extracts. I also would recommend you use a hairspray like Structura Spray for even better hold and style.

This month, we are excited to launch a new column especially for curly teens. Julia Rizzo is a teenager living in Central New York. When not writing, she enjoys acting, reading and snow skiing. She has loved writing as long as she can remember, and plans to pursue a career in English. She hopes her column will provide encouragement and inspire girls to love their curly hair.

As teenage girls, we feel a lot of pressure to look and act a certain way. But what’s most important is not looking like a perceived idea of perfection, but being confident in yourself.

If you believe that you are beautiful and radiant, chances are that’s the impression other people will get.

A growing number of women already have opted for the romantic and feminine look of curly hair — from Hollywood to the homeroom.

Naturally curly is about embracing an attitude. It’s about loving who you are, your spunk, your vitality and your uniqueness. It’s not about looking down upon those who aren’t naturally curly, or, on the other hand, envying them. It’s about accepting the things that make you who you are.

I’d like to think my hair mirrors my personality. It’s lively, bouncy and versatile. It’s never exactly the same two days in a row. In life, and with my hair, I try not to be flat, lifeless or artificial.

I remember one evening where I went to the effort of straightening my hair. As I struggled with my blowdryer and straightening iron, I winced at the thought of the damage I was inflicting on my curls.

When I walked into school the next morning, I didn’t get the ‘oohing’ and ‘ahhing’ response I had hoped for. Instead, my friends told me it wasn’t me and it didn’t match my style. They knew and appreciated me as I am and didn’t think I needed to change at all.

I think that was the moment when I realized the importance of being who you are and the value of being comfortable with yourself. Loving your hair is a great first step.

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Email your questions/comments to Julia.

For many of us, winter brings cold dry air that is made worse by the effects of central heating, especially if you have a forced-air furnace.

The end result can be dry skin — sometimes dry to the point of scaly.

The clinical name for the condition is xerosis, and while most of us muddle through the winter months with a heavy reliance on skin cream, there are instances when you should seek medical attention for dry skin. According to the NIH Medline Plus online health information site, if you have itching without a visible rash, dryness and itching are preventing you from sleeping, you have open cuts from scratching and/or your home measures aren’t helping, see your doctor.

For the rest of us, there are very simple steps we can take to reduce the itchiness and flaking we might be facing.

Your best defense against dry skin starts in the morning, as soon as you step into the shower. As much as possible, keep bathing to a minimum, using as little soap as possible. Limit the use of cleansers to those parts of your body that sweat the most: armpits, groin and feet. Dermatologists suggest using non-soap cleansers like Cetaphil, Spectro Gel and Aquanil or gentle soaps like Neutrogena and Dove.

Use warm water only; as cool as you can stand it is the best temperature.

Don’t scrub vigorously at your skin with a loofah while in the shower or bath. If you feel you really must remove the flaky bits, dry brush your skin with a soft bristle brush BEFORE getting into the water.

Once you get out of the shower, don’t rub yourself dry! If you have to take a towel to your skin, pat gently and leave some moisture behind. Damp skin will accept moisturizers more easily and you will find relief from the itching associated with dryness.

Water-based moisturizers are really preferable, but thick, greasy moisturizers are your best friend when you have really dry skin; be aware they can stain clothes.

The most-recommended brands of lotions to try for very dry skin are Lubriderm, Eucerin and Complex 15. Last fall, I received a full-size “sample” bottle of Lubriderm’s new Skin Renewal Firming Body Moisture. This is a silicone-based product that has done wonders for my legs over this very harsh winter. Even though it is pricey, I will be buying it in the future.

Another new Lubriderm product contains oatmeal extract. Oatmeal is very soothing to the skin and many books of herbal and old-fashioned remedies include recipes for an oatmeal soak for the bath. Many Aveeno products contain oatmeal.

Should you find that creams or lotions are not enough on their own, first use a light oil designed for use on the skin like Alpha-Keri or Neutrogena Light Sesame Oil. Then put the moisturizer cream over that!
Moisturize again before going to bed and wear soft pajamas next to your skin. Flannel sheets, or old ones that are soft from washing, are kindest to a dry body.

Avoid scented products. Even if your favourite fragrance has a scented body lotion, skip it in favour of unscented. Switch to unscented laundry detergent — you might find it makes a difference. Whenever possible, avoid fabric softeners.

Run a humidifier at home; and at work, if possible. Try to keep the temperature at home between 68F and 72F — warmer air will exacerbate the dryness.

Finally, drink water! It helps to moisturize from the inside too.

Hopefully, these tips will help ease the itching for those of you going through a cold winter like the one we’re having here in Canada. And, just like the woman in the Lubriderm commercials, you can kiss that alligator skin goodbye!

As I begin my first column for NaturallyCurly.com, I am proud to share my knowledge and expertise with all the curly girls and boys of the world. Have you looked at the award shows, magazine covers and runways of New York, Milan and Paris lately? Tell me what you see? Textured hair – wavy, curly and coily hair — is in style big! Now that Hollywood and the fashion and beauty industries have finally caught on to our curly beauty, we are not about to go back into the box. Curly girls are here to stay! I wrote ‘Textured Tresses: The Ultimate Guide to Maintaining the Styling Natural Hair’ in 2004 to guide women with wavy, curly and coily hair and help them achieve the maximum flexibility to maintain and style textured hair. Thanks to NaturallyCurly.com, you’re now all able to reach me through this column. I have worked with chemically processed and all types of textured hair for over 18 years. In my journey, I’ve found that textured hair is the universal word for all curl patterns. Textured hair is naturally straight-wavy hair, wavy, curly, very curly and tightly coiled hair. once you accept what you have and stop fighting your hair, you’ll be able to achieve all possibilities. This includes styling curls, locs, braids, twists and texturized hair with the right products, tools and techniques. Let’s remember to nurture ourselves, mentally physically and spiritually so that textured hair is always beautiful hair!

Q: Are petroleum products ‘bad’ for highly textured hair?

Diane: Petroleum products are so-called ‘bad’ for any hair whether highly textured or otherwise. Products that contain petroleum, mineral oil and lanolin may cause the hair to weigh down excessively as well as attracting unnecessary dirt and debris from the environment.

Q: With the recent availability of ‘natural’ soaps such as African black soap, shikaikai powder, alma, aritha (soapnut”>, shikakai and need — are they good for naturally kinky hair or are they too drying?

Diane: African soap, soapnut, shikakai and need are great products that have claimed to relieve scalp irritation and have anti-bacterial properties. These soaps are generally used for the face and body to soften rough skin, for oily skin, dry skin and for acne, blemishes and other skin problems. While these soaps may be great for scalp disorders and very oily hair, they can be very drying for very curly and tightly coiled hair (kinky”>. If you would like to take advantage of the soaps to relieve any scalp irritation, one should use a second deep moisturizing clenaser as your second shampoo followed by a deep penetration conditioning.

Q: What is the best way to use butters and natural oils? Should it be used only on the scalp? On the ends? A combination?

Diane: Natural butters and oils are great for hair treatments and pomades. However, butters and oils can be too heavy to apply straight to the hair shaft. Butters, like shea, when combined with other natural light oils work wonders as daily pomades; as wrapping pomades and when used to hold and mold your natural curls daily. Especially great for repairing and preventing split ends. You can try my new product TAI – Texture Whip Creme sold right here on NaturallyCurly.com CurlMart.

Q: For those of us with multi-textured and multi-curled hair, what is the best method for cutting and shaping the hair? (Side note: From my personal experience, blowing hair out into a semi-straightened form and cutting it does not properly compensate for the inevitable uneven shrinkage that comes with multi-textured hair.

Diane: As explained in Chapter 6 of ‘Textured Tresses,’ multi-textured curly hair and wavy hair should be cut on the spring-back method. This is where the hair is cut wet — held in the hand straight down and then slightly released to accommodate for the curl pattern. Then the hair is cut in between the S-shape patter, where each S-Curl begins and ends. Some textured curly hair should be slightly blown out — cut dried and then reshaped with the hair damp or slightly wet to accommodate for curl formation. Another great technique is the slicing, slithering, chopping method that cuts right into the curl pattern, reducing volume without cutting the length. I personally use all these techniques on my clients, depending on their texture.

Q: Can you address the phenomenon known as ‘scab’ hair? How exactly does the relaxer impact hair that has not grown in yet?

Diane: Apparently ‘scab’ hair is the terminology that the lay girls have given to leftover relaxed hair that has not completely been cut off when growing out one’s natural hair. Frankly, I wish people wouldn’t use the word when they can easily cut off all the relaxer or simply use natural sets and products to create beautiful styles while going through the process. Most often, the remaining relaxer acts as a curly buffer, which visually makes the hair look texturized with the proper products. (The word scab in the medical world is a term for dried skin that forms over a wound to protect the skin while the healing process takes place.”> Why not take this healing time to appreciate the growing-out process and use natural sets described in Chapter 8 of ‘Textured Tresses’? The demarcation line where the relaxed hair and natural hair meet can be affected while natural hair is growing in. Depending on one’s curl pattern, there may be a considerable amount of breakage. That’s why using deep penetration and moisturizing conditioners are very crucial during this period. There are a few options. You usually have about five to eight months before you’ll have to cut hair completely off or if the hair is wavy and curly, you can slowly cut the relaxer out.

Q: Many black women grow up believing that oil is the answer to moisturizing our hair. But since I’ve been natural, I find that natural oils can be a friend or foe, depending on the type. Why do some women have horrible luck with oils, while others have no problem at all?

Diane: Essential and botanical oils are great for the hair. However, they should be very light oils like lavender, rosemary, jojoba and carrot oil. These oils are conditioning and light enough for everyday use. Heavier oils should only be used for herbal deep treatments and not every day use. Some companies combine heavy and lighter oils to give the maximum benefit of a natural oil pomade that works great for coarse, dry hair and as a pomade for twisting and grooming.

Q: I am trying to grow out my natural hair after years of relaxers. I have been relaxer free for about a year now, and my hair is ‘nappy.’ Are there any products out there that will make it a little easier to manage and perhaps define the curls I have? While it is growing — my hair grows slow and dries out very easily — are there also any good moisturizers that might weigh it down a bit so that it’s not constantly sticking out in all directions? Thank you!

Diane: It sounds like you have very curly or tightly coiled hair. I would definitely recommend that you start by shampooing and conditioning with a highly rich conditioning sshampoo an conditioner that you can read about in Chapter 3 of ‘Textured Tresses.’ TAI – Texture Whip Creme, my newest stylng product, is wonderful for moisturizing your natural coily hair daily or as needed. You can also look into having your hair softened or texturized by your stylist with a low-sodium relaxer like Design Essentials Losodium relaxer to loosen the curl pattern and make it a little more manageable. However, if you’re looking for a product that can temporarily loosen your curl, you can try a conditioner like Graham Webb’s Synchronicity or The Relaxer by Phyto.

It’s 5:15 p.m. on a chilly Thursday evening in December and you’re standing in the ladies’ room at your office staring at your reflection in the mirror. In a few minutes, you and your co-workers will be walking over to the restaurant where your company will treat you to a holiday party, and you’re trying to figure out how to make what’s left of your daytime makeup look good in festive candlelight.

It’s really not necessary to wash everything off and start over, and a little advance planning can help you make the transition from Super Staffer to Bewitching Beauty with relative ease.

First, it helps to know the level of formality of the event since it can range from an open house at someone’s home to a sit-down dinner dance at a hotel ballroom. Less makeup works for the first, while you might want to pull out all the stops for the second.

Shimmer, smoky eyes and sparkling lips are ideally suited to the party circuit of November, December and early January.

Start your day by putting concealer on your eyelids and setting it with powder. This will make a base for your eyeshadow to grab on to and it’s more likely to last all day. Start with a softly shimmering shade in peach, cream or pink—my choice is NARS Night Star.

Apply the balance of your daytime eyes as usual, but hold off on the mascara for a minute. Decide if you’d like the drama of false eyelashes here. If you’re going to the office and then on to a party, I don’t recommend a full set. However, the tiny clumps sold as “individual” lashes work nicely. Apply two or three to the outer corners of each eye, let the glue dry, then add mascara.

Packing your makeup bag is the most important step in going from day to night makeup. Blotting papers are a great way to absorb shine without disturbing foundation. Most concealers come in small tubes, tubs or sticks that are easily transported. Makeup products that do double duty are a good choice—try Avon’s Sheer Highlighter for Lips and Cheeks, Cargo’s Color Tube or NARS The Multiple. If you want to carry your tried-and-true makeup with you, tiny pots can be bought at art supply stores and you can scrape some colour into them or cut bits off lipstick. And if you know that you have a tendency to raccoon eyes by the end of a working day, tucking a Q-tip soaked in makeup remover into a plastic bag will help whisk away any remnants.

Decide ahead of time if you’d like to emphasize one feature, or two, or go for equal tones on eyes, cheeks and lips. The last looks best if you select colours in the same family—all bronze, or all rose—and use the same intensity.

If you want to do smoky eyes, remember that they don’t have to be grey or black. Deep blue, deep purple, browns, bronze and deep greens also work beautifully.

Once you’re ready to start, do your eyes first, especially if you’re going for smoky eyes using shadow instead of pencil. Whenever I use my MAC Black Tied eyeshadow, a LOT of it falls below my eyes. Waiting to add foundation and/or concealer ensures that you don’t have to start those steps over.

Practice makes perfect. If dramatic eyes are new to you, take an hour to have a lesson at your favourite beauty counter, or for yourself at home. Try a pencil look on one eye and a shadow technique on the other. Wash it off and start over again with different colours. Experiment until you’re comfortable with a style.

When your eyes are done, dab concealer on the areas that need it and set with powder. Touch up your blush if you feel you need it. Pull out the red lipstick (see last month’s column for colour suggestions”> and perfect your pout. Dab a highlighter along your cheekbones, your collarbone and under your brows. Products to seek out: Revlon’s Skin Lights, Benefit Moon Beam, or Stila All-Over Shimmer Powder.

Spritz on a touch of your favourite perfume, fluff out or pin up those fabulous curls with a bejewelled hair pin and add some gorgeous earrings to frame your face.

The holiday season is your time to shine—night and day!

Following is a list of herbs and natural ingredients featured in hair care products, particularly for curly, kinky or wavy hair. The list is derived from multicultural sources and is designed for all types of people with curly hair. An important thing to remember, should you try to create your own hair care products using herbs, is that most herbs are astringent, while many types of curly hair dry out easily. Herbs should be used with discretion (very small amounts”> or else irritation may result. ‘Protein-rich’ ingredients are good for many types of hair but counterproductive for hair that has been chemical relaxed. Finally, curly hair, especially kinky African-American hair types with a tight coil, is resistant to natural colorants — results will be subtle. Those with high percentages of gray should do strand tests, and this type of hair may also be highly resistant to natural colorants.

Natural Saponins (Suds”> Agave (Agave americana”>, Castille Soap (olive oil soap”>, Papaya Leaf (Carica papaya”>, Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis”>

Hair Softeners Burdock Root (Lappa officinalis”>, Castor oil (Ricinus communis”>, Chickweed (Cerastiu”> (Stellaria”> (Stellaria media m”>, Comfrey (Symphytum officinale”>, Honey, Hops (Humulus lupulus”>, Lime Flowers (Citrus aurantifolia”>, Linden Flowers (Tilia americana”>, Marshmallow root (Althaea officinalis”>, Mayonnaise, Oat straw (Avena, especially A. sativa”>, Wheat Protein, Wild Cherry Bark (Prunus”> (P. serotina”>, Yerba del Negro

Body and Shine Aloe Vera (Aloe vera”>, Castor Oil (Ricinus communis”>, Eggs, Hops (Humulus lupulus”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Mayonnaise, Oak (Quercus”>

Growth and Nutrients Algae, Dulse (Palmaria palmata”>, Horsetail (Equisetum arvense”>, Kelp (orders Laminariales and Fucales”>, Kola nut (Cola acuminata”>, Lanolin (adeps lanae”>, Nori (Porphyra”>, Oak (Quercus alba”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>, Sage (Salvia officinalis”>, Walnut leaves (Juglans cinerea”>

Setting Lotions, Gels, Curl Definition Acacia (Acacia”> or (Robinia Pseudacacia”>, Egg, Flaxseed (Linum usitatissimum”>, Glycerine, Gum Arabic (A. Senegal”>, Gum tragacanth (Astragalus gummifer”>, Icelandic moss (Cetraria islandica”>, Irish Moss (Chondrus crispus”>, Lanolin (adeps lanae”>, Lemon (Citrus limon”>, Marshmallow root (Althaea officinalis”>, Orange blossom water (Citrus bigaradia”>, Vegetable Glycerin

Dandruff Birch (Betula lenta”>, Carrot (Daucus carota”>, Eucalyptus peppermint (Eucalyptus dives”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Lemon (Citrus limonum”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>, Sage (Salvia officinalis”>, Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia”>, Thyme (Thymus vulgaris”>, Willow Bark (Salix alba”>

Fragrance Citrus: Orange (Citrus aurantium”>, Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi”>, Lemon (Citrus limonum”>, Jasmine (Jasminum officinale”>, Lime (Citrus aurantifolia”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Lemongrass (Cymbopogon martini”>, Orange: Neroli (Citrus bigaradia”> Petit Grain (Citrus aurantium”>, Palma rosa (Cymbopogon martini”>, Sandalwood (Santalum album”>

Essential Oils and Fixed Oils For Alopecia (Serious Hair Loss”> Borage (Borago officinalis”>, Calendula (Calendula officinalis”>, Carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus”>, Clary Sage (Salvia clarea”>, Cypress (Cupressus “>, Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Lemon (Citrus limonum”>, Palma Rosa (Cymbopogon martini”>, Peach Kernel (Prunus persica”>, Sesame Seed (Sesamum indicum”>

Scalp Irritation Aloe Vera (Aloe Vera; Barbados aloe”>, Calendula (Calendula officinalis”>, Comfrey (Symphytum officinale”>, Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis”>, Frankincense resin (genus Boswellia of the family Burseraceae”>, Myrrh resin (Commiphora myrra”>, Pine Tar (Pinus and especially P. palustris”>, Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia”>, Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana”>

Natural Oils, Waxes, Butter for Emollience, Softening, Shine Aloe (Aloe Vera; Barbados aloe”>, Avocado (Persea americana”>, Castor Oil (Ricinus communis”>, Cocoa Butter (Cocos nucifera”>, Hemp (Cannabis sativa”>, Mango (Mangifera indica”>, Neem (Azadirachta indica”>, Palm (Arecaceae”>, Shea Butter (Vitellaria paradoxa”>, Walnut Oil (Juglans”>

Essential Oils/Fixed Oils For: Brittle Breaking Hair and Split Ends Birch (Betula lenta”>, Borage (Borago officinalis”>, Calendula (Calendula officinalis”>, Carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus”>, Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile”>, Cocoa Butter (Cocos nucifera”>, Evening Primrose (Enothera biennis”>, Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Mango Butter (Mangifera indica”>, Parsley (Petroselinum crispum”>, Peach Kernel (Prunus persica”>, Shea Butter (Vitellaria paradoxa”>, Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis

Essential Oils for Normal Healthy Hair Almond (Prunus dulcis”>, Borage (Borago officinalis”>, Carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus”>, Evening Primrose (Enothera biennis”>, Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Lemon Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus citriodora”>, Parsley (Petroselinum crispum”>, Peach kernel (Prunus persica”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>

Essential Oils for Oily Hair Basil (Ocimum basilicum”>, Birch (Betula lenta”>, Borage seed (Borago officinalis”>, Cypress (Cupressus”>, Eucalyptus Lemon (Eucalyptus citriodora”>, Evening Primrose (Enothera biennis”>, Lemon (Citrus limonum”>, Peach Kernel (Prunus persica”>, Sage (Salvia officinalis”>, Sesame seed (Sesamum indicum”>, Yarrow (A. millefolium”>

Essential Oils for Dandruff Basil (Ocimum basilicum”>, Birch (Betula lenta”>, Cypress (Cupressus”>, Lemon (Citrus limonum”>, Lime (Citrus aurantifolia”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>, Thyme (Thymus vulgaris”>

Essential Oils and Fixed Oils for Dry Hair Avocado oil (Persea americana”>, Birch (Betula lenta”>, Carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus”>, Cocoa Butter (Cocos nucifera”>, Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens”>, Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis”>, Lavender (Lavendula officinalis; Lavendula angustifolium”>, Parsley (Petroselinum crispum”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>, Sandalwood (Santalum album”>, Sun flower oil (Helianthus, especially H. annuus”>, Yarrow (A. millefolium”>

Scalp Stimulation Cayenne (Capsicum”>, Ginger (Zingiber officinale”>, Peppermint (Mentha piperita”>

Natural Hair Colorants Blonde Calendula (Calendula officinalis”>, Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile”>, Honey, Lemon (Citrus limonum”>, Mullein (Verbascum”>, Rhubarb (R. rhabarbarum”>

Natural Hair Colorants Auburn and Burnette Black Tea (Camellia sinensis”>, Catechu (Acacia catechu”>, Cinnamon (Cinnamomum cassia; Cinnamomum z.”>, Clove (Syzygium aromaticum”>, Henna (Lawsonia inermis”>, Logwood (Haematoxylon campechianum”>, Tobacco (N. tabacum”>

Natural Hair Colorants: Red Alkanet Root (Alkanna tinctoria”>, Annatto Seed (Bixa orellana”>, Henna (Lawsonia inermis”>, Hibiscus (Hibiscum”>, Madder Root (Rubia tinctorum”>, Rose hip (Rosa canina”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>, Saffron (Crocus sativus”>

Blue/Blue/Grey Blackberry Juice (Rubus”>, Blueberry Juice (Vaccinium”>, Coffee (Coffea”>

Dark Brown and Black Henna (Lawsonia inermis”>, Hibiscus (Hibiscum”>, Madder Root (Rubia tinctorum”>, Quebracho (Aspidosperma quebracho-blanco”>, Rose hip (Rosa canina”>, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis”>, Saffron (Crocus sativus”>, Sage (Salvia officinalis”>, Sandalwood (Cymbopogon martini”>, Tea (Camellia sinensis”>, Tobacco (N. tabacum”>, Walnut (Juglans nigra”>

Colorants Used to Add to Color to Hair care Formulae Alkanet Root (Alkanna tinctoria”>, Annatto Seed (Bixa orellana”>, Madder Root (Rubia tinctorium”>, Vanilla Bean (V. planifolia”>

There are almost as many ways to remove one’s makeup as there are of applying it. A trip to the local drug store presents us with a bewildering array of bars, cloths, creams, lotions, gels and liquids. Then you’re asked to choose between oil-free, foaming, gentle or scrubbing.

My personal choice are the generic supermarket cloths that are knock-offs of those made by Olay, Neutrogena and L’Oréal. Makeup guru Paula Begoun suggests using unscented generic baby wipes but I find they don’t work well on the waterproof mascara I wear almost every day. A gentle cleanser and face cloth is the most economical choice, but the nice thing about disposable wipes is that you’re not faced with stain management on laundry day!

In the past, I, and probably many of you, used baby oil to remove makeup. When I run out of cleansing cloths, I sometimes still do. Many people find it irritating and the oily film left behind difficult to remove on its own. The great majority of commercial eye makeup removers on the market have some mineral-oil content. If you have any kind of reaction to baby oil, avoid these.

Many companies make claims about their cleansing products that aren’t true, especially the ones relating to anti-aging. And the reason the claims aren’t true is due to the simple fact that you are washing away the active ingredients in these products. They do not stay on your face long enough to have the desired effect, assuming that there is enough of the ingredient in the cleanser to fulfill the claim.

With that in mind, here is a list of some products (most of them relatively inexpensive”> that seem to be highly recommended by several sources: Clean & Clear Foaming Facial Cleanser for Sensitive Skin; Clinique Comforting Cream Cleanser; Neutrogena Gentle Skin Cleanser; Eucerin Gentle Hydrating Cleanser; Nivea Refreshing Cleansing Gel; and Pond’s Clear Solutions Deep Pore Scrub (Note: Do not use this last product around the eye area!”>. Readers outside the United States should be aware that some of these products may not be available in your location.

When it comes to scrub products and exfoliating in general, there is little doubt that it does improve the texture of your skin and allow better penetration of product. Controversy can erupt over the method. When apricot scrubs first came out, they were viewed as a miracle product — especially for blemished skin. But dermatologists quickly pointed out a serious problem with these products; crushed apricot shells tear your skin, leaving it MORE prone to infection and irritation. While some companies have “mild” versions of these cleansers, blemished skin is best exfoliated using a rough face cloth or a product like the Pond’s one cited above, which uses plastic micro-beads to gently slough off the outer layer of skin.

“Squeaky clean” and tight should not be your goals in cleansing. Aim for clear, soft and refreshed. Be gentle with your face — it’s the only one you have!

If you wear minimal makeup that is NOT waterproof, Cetaphil or Phisoderm and a face cloth are your bests bet for cleansing your skin. These are very gentle products with a minimum of detergent content, and they also act as skin softening agents, which is important for helping impurities work their way to the surface. A similar, Canadian-made product is called Spectro-Gel, and copies of this can be found as store brands at Loblaws and PharmaPlus. Cetaphil has recently come out with a cleanser specifically designed to remove makeup.

Take the time to rinse off your cleanser thoroughly with warm water and follow it up with your favourite moisturizer. Remember that clean, healthy skin is the basis of good makeup!

Of the two questions I am asked most often, far and away the No. 1 question is:

What colour eye shadow goes with my blue/green/brown eyes?

The correct answer is: Whatever colour you like that looks good!

But there are some colours that will make your eyes look their very best and enhance them more than others. Come with me back to grade school for a few minutes and take a look at this colour wheel:

The colour opposite to your eye colour on the wheel is the one that will make your eye colour “pop” out most. In artist’s parlance, this complementary colour will make your own eye colour “more active”. The two colours on either side of this one are the next best to achieve this effect, followed by the two colours adjacent to your own.

However, it’s probably unlikely that most of us would wear a true red eye shadow, as the colour would make us look as if we’d been crying (for the daring, I recommend MAC Shadestick in Crimsonaire”>. Pink is the acceptable substitute.

With that in mind, these are the colours that are most complementary to:

Green eyes: shades of purple, especially darker colours like eggplant and plum, pink, peach, gold, dark blue

Blue eyes: lilac, lavender, shades of brown, camel and taupe, pink, peach, bronze

If you have hazel eyes, the colours for green eyes will work well for you, but the shades for blue eyes will work if you have predominantly blue stripes in your irises.

Brown eyes (most likely position on the colour wheel would be orange”>: try any shade of brown lighter or darker than your own eye colour, peach, pink, steel blue, steel gray, dark purples.

Makeup colours are not simply red, blue, yellow, etc. Every shade available comes with varying undertones — it is possible to get blue eye shadow with red undertones (looks more purple”>, yellow undertones (looks more green”> and gray undertones (different intensities of the blue”>. If one undertone doesn’t look right on you, try other ones.

Sales staff at department store makeup counters will be able to help you pick the shade with the right undertones for you. If you know which undertone washes you out, makes you look flushed, or makes you look ashen, let them know.

The best advice I can give you for finding your perfect eye makeup shade is to try before you buy. Have a makeover (Clinique has eye makeup workshops at every retail location at least once a year”>. While some companies offer this service this for free (especially if you are only having your eyes done”>, you should be prepared to spend a minimum amount. The notable exception is at Sephora, where makeovers are FREE, regardless of which brand of makeup you select. “Try Before You Buy” usually means buying more expensive makeup because one rarely finds testers of drugstore brands today. I realize that can be problematic for a teen just starting to build a collection, but I can honestly tell you from personal experience that buying less of the right makeup saves more money over the long term than buying the wrong makeup!

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The saying is that the eyes are the mirror of the soul, and doesn’t every beautiful mirror deserve a great frame?

In a survey conducted for Cover Girl in 2003, 51% of American women revealed that if they could have only one makeup item, it would be mascara. (Source: Procter & Gamble”>

Which mascara is up to you, of course (and we have had many a mascara topic in discussions here”>, but I wear the inexpensive stuff for the simple reason that this is the one cosmetic you should replace often (at least every four months”>. And, if you’re applying it properly, you will also use it up quickly.

Do you REALLY want to be spending $80-$100 per year on one product?

When starting a new tube, I put a strip of masking tape around it with the date I opened it written on it so I know when to get rid of it. However, mine usually don’t last that long, anyway.

I have found that the following method gives me almost clump-free lashes:

Remove the applicator from the tube and wipe half of the mascara off on a damp, fibre-free cloth. DO NOT ‘pump’ the applicator into the tube as this introduces air and bacteria.

Apply the first coat on the first eye. Refresh the applicator, do not wipe, and apply second coat IMMEDIATELY before the first one dries. Add more if you like.

Repeat on second eye.

When mascara has dried, if you have clumps, use a fine eyelash comb to separate.

If you curl your lashes using one of the old-fashioned torture devices, do it before applying mascara. There are new versions that are easier to use. If you’re using a heated lash curler (Sephora — $16 US, or Igia, approximately $10 US. Shoppers Drug Mart sells one in Canada for $24 Cdn”>, use it after adding macara.

Give your beautiful eyes the frame they deserve—lash out!

Since the beginning of time, people have enjoyed the benefits of rituals. Africans, in particular have combined herbs and rituals such as relaxing head massage. Today, Indian head massage (Malish”> is enjoying attention in the United States.

I grew up as a “tender headed” child. I, like many people with thick, tightly curled, easily tangled, long hair, readily feel pain and am not shy about letting everyone know about it. The word ‘ouch,’ followed by a flood of tears, was synonymous with hair-washing time and with being tender-headed.

Today, as an herbalist and aromatherapist, I have discovered numerous ways of easing pain naturally. Mother (or other caretaker”> and child benefit from these suggestions; bonding, trust, affection and sharing are inspired. The simple rituals shared in this article, paired with herbal remedies, encourage gentle hair care. Ingredients listed are useful for African- descended children with tightly curled, kinky or nappy hair.

Soothing Ritual

1″> Put on a melodic CD. Try: Bobby McFarrin, Sweet Honey and the Rock or Ladysmith Black Mamboza on “African Lullaby” by Music for Little People.

2″> Warm sweet almond, jojoba, avocado oil or shea butter/

3″> Have child sit on a Zafu or Zabuton (Zen meditation pillow; see suppliers. These types work especially well, though any pillow will do.

4″> Retrieve oil from microwave or stovetop. Add 3 drops lavender, sandalwood or chamomile essential oil or 1 drop rose otto to accentuate the relaxing nature of the oil. Situate yourself so that your child is between your knees on her pillow. Dip fingers into the oil and gently massage the entire scalp

5″> Put on plastic cap or wrap hair in cellophane. Wrap again in large towel. Have child lie down on pillow and listen to relaxing music for 20 minutes

6″> Light Nag Champa incense; place in censor or fireproof holder

7″> Shampoo hair using a high-quality detangling shampoo, such as Cream of Nature; towel dry

8″> Put a clean dry towel around her neck; mist hair with No More Tangles.

9″> Mist her face and hair again, this time using lavender or rose water. (Mist your face as well”>. Repeat as you encounter snarls

10″> Separate wet hair with an Afro pick; mist as needed. Style, using the widest comb available

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Gentle Styling Ideas

The blessing of kinky and curly hair is the numerous styling options. Mom can allow her creativity to shine. Each style becomes a makeover and an adventure. Here are a few options that are easy for you, gentle to children’s scalps and well-suited to African hair.1″> A soft headband or colorful scarf (folded down to headband size”>. Put hair into a softly sculpted puff by shaping it with your hands.

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Further Reading

Fragrant Herbal: Enhancing Your Life with Aromatic Herbs and Essential Oils by Lesley Bremness, Bulfinch Press, 1998The Art of Indian Head Massage by Mary Atkinson, Carlton Books, 2002

Welcoming Spirit Home: Ancient African Teachings to Celebrate Children and Community by Sobonfu E. Some, Eagle Brooke Medicine, New World Library, 1999

Supplies

Liberty Natural Products, Inc. 8120 SE Stark St. Portland, OR 97215 PH: 503-256-1227. (Essential oils, floral waters, rose otto, aloe gel, oils”>

Scents of Earth, PO Box 859, Sun City CA 92586, toll free: 800-323-8159

(Yoga pillows, choice sandalwood other relaxing oils”>

Wild Weeds 707-839-4101.(Sells floral waters and essential oils among other herbal supplies.”>

Shopping

Cream of Nature Shampoo, No More Tangles, Aloe Gel and Silk Head Scarf: Sally’s Beauty Supplies, Wal-Mart, Walgreens or Target

Celestial Seasonings Teas: Supermarket and Health Food Stores

Nag Champa Incense: Chinatown, Asian Grocers, Health food stores

Silk or Satin Pillowcase: Linens and Things; Marshall Fields

Headbands and scrunchies: Claires

2″> Part hair in the middle and make two Afro puffs if hair is long enough. Use a scrunchie. For added fun, make a zigzag part.

3″> For a longer-lasting hairstyle, try a double-strand twist.

• Divide hair into four sections.
• Clip or braid three sections to contain the hair.
• Part hair into 3/4” boxes; twist (using two strands”>.
• Apply aloe vera gel to hair to hold ends, or, if necessary, use matching rubber bands.
• Take breaks. Massage her shoulders. Mist hair and apply aloe as needed. Continue until the entire head is styled. Should last at least 4 weeks, especially a silk scarf is worn to bed (or if silk or satin pillowcases are used”>.

Fait a Compli

Complete the ritual with cup of peppermint or chamomile tea:

Boil two cups water; add 1 Celestial Seasons (peppermint or chamomile”> tea bag to each cup; pour water over tea bags, filling cup. Sweeten with honey; flavor with lemon or milk if desired.

By now, the two of you should be relaxed and eagerly looking forward to next month’s ritual. In the interim, have fun shopping for interesting oils, incense, herbs and floral waters for the next Mother and Daughter Hair Ritual.

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Herbs

Chamomile Roman:(Anthemis nobilis, (Chamaemelum nobile”>German Chamomile (Matricaria chamomile”>,(Matricaria recutita”>

Chamomile reduces aches, pain, strain and arthritis; calms, cools and tranquilizes. Chamomile tea makes a wonderful hair rinse, for light hair.

Lavender (Lavendula officinalis”>

Lavender is a relaxing herb. It pampers skin and hair. Lavender is calming and replenishing to the weary. Spray on hair, face and body for energy and inspiration.

Nag Champa

This heavenly incense from India is one of the world’s most popular types of incenses. Traditionally used by the Hindi and Buddhists for meditation and temple rites, Nag Champa is relaxing, inexpensive and widely available.

Peppermint (Mentha piperata”>

Peppermint was once considered a cure-all, for just about every known discomfort. Putting a couple of tea bags inside a washcloth works as a compress to relieve headache and body pains. Peppermint soothes the nerves and is enjoyed by children.

Rose Otto (Rosa damascena”>

Whatever you need, calm, balance, stimulation, cooling off after an argument, rose otto or attar of roses can help. Bulgarian damask roses are usually prepared as rose water. The water is a nourishing treat for the hair and skin; it is also cooling. Rose otto is very expensive but it is also very powerful—a few drops are all that is needed.

Sandalwood (Santalum album “>

Sandalwood builds self-confidence and generates well-being within the environment.

Further Reading

Fragrant Herbal: Enhancing Your Life with Aromatic Herbs and Essential Oils by Lesley Bremness, Bulfinch Press, 1998

The Art of Indian Head Massage by Mary Atkinson, Carlton Books, 2002

Welcoming Spirit Home: Ancient African Teachings to Celebrate Children and Community by Sobonfu E. Some, Eagle Brooke Medicine, New World Library, 1999

Supplies

Liberty Natural Products, Inc. 8120 SE Stark St. Portland, OR 97215 PH: 503-256-1227. (Essential oils, floral waters, rose otto, aloe gel, oils”>

Scents of Earth, PO Box 859, Sun City CA 92586, toll free: 800-323-8159

(Yoga pillows, choice sandalwood other relaxing oils”>

Wild Weeds 707-839-4101.(Sells floral waters and essential oils among other herbal supplies.”>

Shopping

Cream of Nature Shampoo, No More Tangles, Aloe Gel and Silk Head Scarf: Sally’s Beauty Supplies, Wal-Mart, Walgreens or Target

Celestial Seasonings Teas: Supermarket and Health Food Stores

Nag Champa Incense: Chinatown, Asian Grocers, Health food stores

Silk or Satin Pillowcase: Linens and Things; Marshall Fields

Headbands and scrunchies: Claires

NaturallyCurly is celebrating its 15th Anniversary this year. To show you how far we’ve come, we’re highlighting a few of your favorite articles from the NaturallyCurly archives!

As we grow older, our hair gradually turns gray, losing its natural color. For some, this process begins as early as the 20s. Many women are not ready for such a big change. Some want to hold onto their natural hair color, while others choose to enhance gray or white hair. Like most dark fibers, brunette or black hair doesn’t show color as readily as blond or light brown; it is also resistant to accepting color and requires more color. Natural colors are stains; they don’t contain chemicals that enable drastic changes, so their coloring power, particularly on naturally dark hair, is subtle.

The complex hair shaft of kinky and curly hair requires more color and gray hair is very resistant. To top it off, hair grows 1/4-1/2” per month, making coloring hair a real challenge. Shown resistance, we have a tendency to reach for permanent color rather than gentle solutions—this can lead to damage, especially if relaxers or straighteners are also used. This article is written for those seeking natural ways to enrich graying hair. Botanical rinses work with existing color, providing subtle highlights, increased shine and youthful vibrancy without making permanent changes.

Red Hot Oil

Reddish highlights warm sallow skin and enliven dingy, gray hair. A rich red hue can be created from the roots of the herb alkanet (Alkanna tinctoria”>, extracted into oil. Red Hot Oil conditions dry hair and colors it simultaneously. Apply as a hot oil treatment.

1/3 cup alkanet root, cut and sifted

2/3 cup sweet almond, safflower or olive oil

Yield: two or more applications (depending on hair length”>

Shelf life: 1 year

Place alkanet root in sterile, dry jar with screw top. Fill jar with oil. Set in window. Steep 24 hours; swirl periodically. Warm 1/4-cup red oil; apply heated. Divide hair into four sections. Part hair 1/4” at a time and apply oil from roots to tip. Put on plastic cap; then wrap head in towel. Leave on 45 minutes, then

shampoo.

Flamin’ Red

This recipe features madder root (Rubia tinctorum”>, a relative of alkanet root, which was featured in the previous recipe. Flamin’ Red works well on medium or dark brown hair. As a progressive dye, the color intensifies with repeated use.

1 1/2 cups water

1/3 cup madder root

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

Makes: approximately 12 ounces

Shelf Life: use within 24 hours

Boil water. Add madder root. Stir; cover; reduce heat to medium. Simmer 30 minutes. Add vinegar then simmer 30 more minutes. Reduce heat to low; steep 1/2 hour more. Strain. Cool. Apply using catch method (see sidebar”>.

Henna

One of the strongest hair dyes is henna (Lawsonia inermis”>. People have enjoyed henna since the civilizations of Ancient Egypt. Legend holds that both Cleopatra and Nefertiti has lovely red hair. Henna brings out reddish highlights in the most resistant hair, including graying hair. Henna is not recommended on hair that has been dyed recently with commercial dyes; a chemical reaction occurs, turning hair black. Henna is also not recommended for hair that is more than 50% gray. To use packaged henna, follow manufacturer’s directions. Enhance the packaged henna as follows.

Henna Hints

• Shampoo hair first
• Enhance red tones by using cognac, red wine, carrot juice, cranberry juice, hibiscus tea or rosehip tea in place of water
• Tint and scent: add vanilla extract for scent or any combination of ground allspice, cinnamon or cloves for enriched brown tones (Limit spices to a teaspoon. Avoid use on abraded scalp or on sensitive or allergic individuals”>.
• To minimize brassiness, use strong black coffee, rosemary, sage or black tea in place of the water
• For body: add flat beer or hops tea in place of water
• Add mayonnaise to quench dryness
• Attract moisture with yogurt, sour cream, honey or molasses
• Follow up with a hot oil treatment to counteract dryness

Rosemary (Rosmarimus officinalis”> and Sage (Salvia officinalis”> Rinse

This is an age-old formula for blending gray hair into darkly colored hair. It works on the same principle as tea or coffee—staining; facilitated by the concentration of tannins.

1 1/2-cups distilled water

1 teaspoon each dried rosemary and sage

Yield: approximately 12 ounces

Shelf life: 2 weeks

Boil water; add herbs. Cover; reduce heat to medium. Simmer 20 minutes. Reduce heat to low; simmer 20 minutes. Turn off heat; steep 1 hour. Strain. Apply using catch method.

Alternative: use 3 cups strong coffee or black tea. To prepare: brew 3 tablespoons loose Assam, Ceylon, Oolong tea or three Tetley tea bags in three cups boiled water. Cool. Apply using catch method.

Tobacco Herbal Rinse

Tobacco (Nicotianna spp.”> rinse is one of the most effective ways of quickly staining graying hair. This rinse adds golden, auburn tones.

1 1/2 cups distilled water

1/4 cup dried tobacco

2 tablespoons vinegar

Yield: Approximately 12 ounces

Shelf Life: 1 month, refrigerated

Boil water; add tobacco. Reduce heat to medium low; cover. Infuse 40 minutes. Remove from heat; add vinegar; steep 20 minutes. Strain. Apply using catch method.

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Herbal supplies

Bulk Henna and Herbs:

San Francisco Herb & Natural Food Co.

47444 Kato Road

Fremont, 94538

510.770.1215

info@herbspicetea.com

Packaged henna:

Health food stores and specialty markets such as Whole Foods and Sally’s Beauty Supply