Search Results: Cozy Friedman
AHHHH! I love the summer. Moisture and humidity are now my friends. Since humidity will only increase if global warming really is upon us, straight jackets are not going to stand a chance. You’ll be blow-fried one minute and poof the next! I am just a hairdresser. I do not claim to know everything. But of this I’m sure. What your hair does naturally is as beautiful as it gets. It needs to be understood, nurtured and loved.
Lorraine: Puffy hair is caused by several things. 1. You still shampoo. 2. You touch it too much during the drying process. 3. You’re not leaving enough gel in your hair. Shampoos with sodium laurel sulfate (SLS.”> can also lead to chemical breaks, which prevents the hair from growing in a healthy way. SLS. is inorganic. It does not deserve to be in the company of your organic, priceless hair fiber. Cleanse the hair daily with DevaCurl No-Poo. Try this post-cleansing trick: Apply No-Poo to dry hair a few minutes before showering (this is especially good for thick, dense hair”>. This allows the hair to receive more moisture. Then wet the hair and work in a bit more No-Poo, rinse and add as much One Condition as you like. Comb through with your fingers, rinse a little out and leave the rest in. Until your hair is longer, don’t bend forward to scrunch but instead stay upright and squeeze out the excess water with paper towels or an old t-shirt. Add a palmful of Arc AnGel to your hands and distribute evenly, scrunching it into your hair. Put clips in at the crown and front of the hair and DO NOT DISTURB! Q: I used to have a head full of tight, defined curls. In the past year or so, I’ve noticed a significant change. No matter what products I use or how I scrunch or diffuse or twist, my hair will not curl like it used to. It’s now a full wave instead of a curl. As much as I hated and prayed that my curls would disappear when I was a young girl, I now miss them. Could this be a sign that I’ve done too much to my hair over the years with blow-drying, coloring, and over styling? Or is it more likely that I have just outgrown my curls because my hair has changed its texture over the years? Is there a way to get my waves back to curls again.
Lorraine: It could be that your hair is too long, you’re brushing it, you’re shampooing it, you’re coloring it or your hormones are changing. There are many variables.
Q: About three months ago, I got one of the worst haircuts of my life. The guy who cut it had straight hair, and he did everything you say not to do in your book: he layered it like a straight cut, texturized/thinned it, cut it wet, etc. Shortly after the cut, I discovered your book, and have been poo-less ever since. This seems to work well for me in terms of the health of my hair, except when I accidentally use too much product. Finding the right balance has been difficult. I have Botticelli curls, so the cut lopped off any ringlets and left me with a wavy, chin-length mess. I’ve resigned myself to the fact that I’ll have to let it grow out for a while until it can look halfway decent. But in the meantime, it looks pretty horrid. My boss, who has stick-straight hair (and lots of ideas about what hair should look like”>, actually came out and said she hates my hair, and wishes that I would comb it. She thinks it looks dirty and messy, and is embarrassed to take me with her traveling. To me, it looks and feels clean, but the cut leaves it slightly disheveled. I’ve been doing as much as I can to make it look decent without spending hours on it or just wearing a bag over my head.My question is this: What do I do in the meantime with such a bad cut? I’ve been doing as much as I can from your book, but it’s still pretty bad. I can’t use gel right now because it weighs down my hair too much, making it look dirty.
Lorraine: Just be patient, my sweet Morning Glory. Your boss is going to eat those words. Use Low-Poo at the scalp — as much as you would if you were applying a face cream. Rinse well. Skip the conditioner unless you need it at the very ends. After rinsing, and while you’re still in the shower, squeeze in B’Leave In. Get out of the shower and bend forward. Squeeze upright with your paper towel to remove the excess water weight. While you’re in the same position, apply a palm full of Arc Angell and evenly distribute it throughout the hair, squeezing it into the hair shaft. Use clips at the root to release the hair of water/gel weight, or put in a thin headband. Don’t touch it during the drying process.
Q: I have very thick, very coarse. dry hair (auburn with some gray”> with Botticelli curls that are prone to frizz. A year and a half ago, my sister-in-law gave me your “Curly Girl” book. I immediately started the curly girl method with no shampoo, leaving most or all of the conditioner in my hair. The result has been beautiful, shiny curls. I live in Colorado where the humidity is extremely low. Our first trip to a more humid climate was scheduled for this past December. I was looking forward to it, secretly hoping that now my hair would just curl tighter with the added humidity. Much to my dismay, all of my wonderful curl disappeared and was replaced by an enormous head full of frizz! Once back home, the shiny curls came back. We will travel to two humid climates this summer. What can I do to keep my curls and avoid the frizz?
Lorraine: Curly girls are natural weather barometers. Frizz factors reside in different climates on different days. My rule of thumb is to always use more rather than less. So what if you use too much One Condition on a certain day? So what if you use too much Angell? For Curly Girls, that can never hurt.
Q: I have had a wild curly mop of brown hair since I was little. I have always been the different one. All my friends have stick-straight hair. It’s hard to be 16 and fit in when you have what looks like a lion’s mane of curly hair. When I was younger, I would braid it up, twist it into a bun and yes, I hate to admit it, straighten it. Last year I put a lot of product in it to weigh it down and take the frizz out. In the beginning of February, a lady with curly hair came up to me and asked if my hair was natural. Then she recommended that I read your book “Curly Girl”. I read it in a day and loved every chapter. That very day I decided never to shampoo my hair with suds like “dishwashing detergent” again. It has been two months since I last washed my hair with shampoo, and it feels great. The frizz is gone, its soft, and radiant.I only have one problem with it. The upper half is healthy and loving the moisture, but it seems like the bottom two inches are still in distress from the previous mistreatment. The hair isn’t brittle or split, but it doesn’t have that healthy soft feel. I really hate to cut it off because I am trying to grow it out (Like Emmy Rossums in the Phantom of The Opera…I just loved that movie with a curly-haired heroine!”>. I have tried leaving conditioner on the ends after I get our of the shower. Do you have any ideas about how I could get the lower ends to look healthy?
Lorraine: It sounds like you’re on the right track. Are you using DevaCare One Condition? You must try this because it has the most intense hydrating factors you could ask for in a conditioner. Not all conditioners are created equal. Until you get the One Condition, use olive oil, shea butter or jojoba oil. Keep it in overnight and rinse out the next day. Then apply more conditioner after the first rinse and leave that one in.
Lipgloss has become such big business that even The New York Times wrote an entire article on it.
In an item published June 22 of this year, it was reported that sales of lip gloss ballooned to more $200 million in 2005, while less than $50 million worth of the product was sold in 2000. During the same period, sales of lipstick declined from $312 million US to $279 million US. This comes as no surprise to me, because I have a confession to make: My name is Rouquinne and I am a lip gloss addict.
This past weekend I purchased my 30th MAC lip glass — separate colours in my current collection (not including duplicates I have of discontinued items that I adore”>. Yes, 30. Thirty… 3 and 0.
And that’s just the stuff from MAC; I also have glosses from Arden, Lauder, Trucco, NYC, Avon, NARS, Revlon, Red Earth and Fake Bake!
If we were on a messenger program, I’d probably be inserting a blushing emoticon here, except I’m not particularly embarrassed by my addiction. My only concern is that my boyfriend might read this article and decide he can live with my cow collection, but he’ll draw the line at the lip gloss!
Then again, he reaps the benefits of my kissably soft lips!
Which is one of the reasons behind the popularity of lip gloss. There are lipstick formulations out there that make your lips feel dry as soon as you apply them; a problem you never encounter with a gloss. One quick swipe of the wand, and your lips are rehydrated.
Gloss is also fairly easy to apply. Most lipsticks demand a mirror at the very least, and quite often a liner and lip brush are also needed to perfect a pout. Lip gloss can be swiped inside the lip line and then *smooshed* between your lips to put it where it should go — no mirror required.
Though a mirror is recommended for heavier, highly-pigmented glosses — like my Trucco “Divinyls” in Movie Star (a gorgeous deep burnt-orange shade that’s heavy on the shimmer”>. Generally, I find that the more colour there is in a lip gloss, the better it sticks to my lips. Other examples of this are Avon Glazewear in the full-colour shades, Revlon Lip Glide and Elizabeth Arden High Shine.
Sheer lip gloss colours tend to be the most popular. One of the reasons for this is that the light reflecting off the product tends to make our lips look fuller and sexier.
But let’s be perfectly clear about one thing; there is NO lip product on the market that will give you Angelina Jolie’s lips without surgery. The infamous DuWop Lip Venom contains natural products that irritate your mouth to make it swell — temporarily. When you wash it off, within hours your lips will return to normal. Repeated usage will not make a difference. Do not be fooled.
A main complaint about lip gloss is the “tack factor”. MAC’s Lip Glass seems to be a good product for attracting your hair on a windy day, but my “Oh Baby” is just as likely to end up on my hair as is my NARS “Orgasm” gloss.
Only you can decide for yourself how much “tackiness” you want to handle in your gloss, but if you’d rather keep it on your lips than in your hair or on your coffee cup, you might want to consider a tinted lip balm – like a good, old-fashioned Bonne Bell Lip Smacker or Smith’s Rosebud Salve. Avon has Slick Tints for lips, and MAC has developed tinited lip conditioner in stick form.
One of the best things about lip gloss is the cost factor. They can be found at every price point from the $1.99 (Cdn”> NYC Liquid Lip Shine to $16.50 (US”> for the incredibly popular Lancôme Juicy Tubes to the stratospheric $38.00 (US”> for LipFusion Color Shine Micro-Injected Lip Plump!
If you’ll excuse me… I must go switch out the 5 shades of lip gloss I took to work with me today for the 5 I’ll bring tomorrow. At least it’s not shoes…!
Katie : Curl Pride winner
Katie Korein was the winner of our Curl Pride contest, a national essay contest that asked kids to tell us why they needed a curly makeover. Her essay was selected from hundreds of entries. Katie and her family were flown in March to New York, where she received a makeover from “Curly Girl” author Lorraine Massey of Devachan Salon & Departure Lounge. Katie will be checking in with us throughout the year to update us on her curl journey.
With my new products in hand — DevaCare No-Poo and DevaCare One Condition — my curls are looking better than ever! They have definition and shine. The more I use the products, the better my hair looks. For example, when I get them wet in the pool, which is often, I come out with perfect ringlet curls. It isn’t a frizzy mess anymore!
Also, I’ve let my hair just grow and grow -– a suggestion made by Lorraine Massey, the owner of Devachan Salon – and that has been a success. The longer my hair grows, the better my curls look. For my type of curl -– big, thick, and loaded with possible frizz issues –- my curls look better as they’re growing longer.
My biggest challenge has been to let my hair out and free instead of sticking it back in a ponytail all the time. In the summer, when it is hot, I just want to get it back and out of my way. But I’m much more open to letting it out. I remember seeing all the curly girls in New York wearing their hair out –- not in a ponytail. I’m still working on loving my curls as much as the dozens of people who stop me to tell me how awesome my curls look.
I really miss the CurlyKids.com girls, and I talk about my adventures in New York all the time. It truly was a once in a lifetime experience.
Thanks and good luck all you Curly Heads out there!!!!
Fondest Regards,
Katie and her parents
Q: My 2-year-old daughter has inherited my curly (3b”> hair, but a baby fine version of it. It is in ringlets right out of the shower. But by the time it has dried, the curls have significantly diminished. It’s like her hair is too fine to hold the curl. I’m sure it will change and thicken as she gets older. But could you suggest any tips/styles/products to enhance her beautiful curls now?
Cozy: You are certainly correct that her hair’s texture will change as she gets older. In the meantime, here are a few tips to keep her curls looking bouncy rather than limp. First, her haircut is very important. Make sure that she gets a nicely layered haircut to enhance her curls. Otherwise, the hair will be too heavy to curl. I always recommend bringing a photo from from a magazine that shows a style you would like. Second, make sure to use a very light styling cream that will not weigh down the curls. I recommend a dime size amount of So Cozy Kooky Kiwi Styling Cream scrunched into her hair after bath. Just make sure to distribute it evenly. Do not brush her hair after that. Let curls set.
Q: My daughter is 3 years old. I am Chinese and her father is black African. The texture of her hair is quite fine and thin like Chinese hair, but is very dry and frizzy. I have tried various black hair products, but it makes her hair shrink into very tight curls and look very greasy. And other hair products leave her hair very dry. She currently has no hair-care routine because I haven’t got a clue where to start. Please advise me about some possible hair care products, and also a hair-care routine I should be using with her.
Cozy: I can understand your confusion! It sounds like she really needs some good moisturizing and conditioning products. Perhaps it isn’t which products you are using, but how much you are using. Continue to try products made for African American hair and try using much less. Check out CurlMart, and such brands as Blended Cutie and Mixed Chicks. Also, your daughter definitely needs a good leave-in conditioner. Try So Cozy Fruity Delight Leave-in Conditioner & Detangler. It is enriched with Sweet Almond Oil to to lock in moisture and Vitamins E & A to moisturize and soother hair & scalp.
Q: My son is 7 months old. He has very tight, kinky hair, like his mommy. That means his hair is always thirsty! I know exactly what works for my hair — conditioner washing. But I don’t know anything about conditioners to buy for babies. I know they have conditioner for toddlers on up, but I’m not sure about young babies. I like to keep the products as natural as possible. For example, I use olive oil, and it has helped a lot to keep his hair from drying out. I’m not expecting his hair to look picture-perfect at all times. After all, he is a baby, and a very active one at that! He spends a lot of his time rolling from back to tummy, trying to crawl, and grabbing at EVERYTHING including his hair! I am just trying to keep it moisturized, so any help would be appreciated!
Cozy: You are smart to look for products formulated with gentle ingredients, specifically created for young, sensitive scalps and hair! Try using So Cozy Sweet Strawberry Conditioner. Instead of rinsing completely, leave in a tiny bit on the ends for extra conditioning. I do that with my own hair, but often prefer to rinse completely and then scrunch in a tiny amount, just so that I can control how much I am leaving in.
Q: I am the mother of a gorgeous 9-year old girl with fantastic curls. I am Caucasian and her father is African American. We shampoo and deep condition twice a week, and we rinse and run regular conditioner through it every other day. The only problem is that lately we’ve been noticing flakes in her hair. I assume it’s dandruff, but I am afraid to use a dandruff shampoo in her hair because I’ve heard they are very harsh. I need help!
Cozy: It’s hard to comment on whether or not your daughter has dandruff without seeing for myself, but it sounds to me that she probably has product build-up that resembles dandruff. Make sure that you are using alcohol-free styling products, which won’t dry out hair and cause flaking. You may consider using a purifying shampoo once or twice a week to remove any product build-up. So Cozy Green Apple Swimmer’s Shampoo will gently remove any chemicals or impurities left in the hair, not just chlorine. It’s made with orange extract to gently remove impurities.
Q: My 2- and 9-year-old boys have thick, blond curls, which recently have gotten much more coarse. I have avoided using products in them in the past (since they both have eczema and weren’t taking a lot of baths, I didn’t want all that stuff just sitting in their hair”>. I would like to find something that will soften up the texture a bit, but I don’t want to lose the curls. What do you think would work? They are taking more baths/showers now since they have to wash off the pollen from playing outside and I have a little more freedom with their hair. I just don’t want anything that will attract bugs/bees etc.
Cozy: You have two distinct issues: moisturizing and curl enhancement. Let’s start with moisturizing. It sounds like your kids need major moisturizing to soften up the coarse hair. Aside from a great conditioner (So Cozy Sweet Strawberry”>, you need a leave-in conditioner that is gentle enough that they can use everyday. Try So Cozy Fruity Delight. To enhance those gorgeous golden curls, do NOT brush or comb after bathing. Instead, use a light gel (alcohol free for sure”> and scrunch into your hair with your head upside down. You can blow dry with a diffuser or just let air dry. Let the curls form and set naturally.
It’s summer for those of us in the Northern Hemisphere. Canada, the United States and France are celebrating our national holidays in the next couple of weeks. The great vacation migrations have begun.
Did you pack your sunscreen and big, dark glasses and big, floppy hat along with your swimsuit, funky flip flops and adorable beaded sarong to take to the beach?
Do you remember to use them every day while gardening, travelling between home and office, or for running to the store?
Are you heeding the warnings about sun damage and using lots of sunscreen and avoiding tanning beds?
I didn’t want to write what is fast becoming my “annual sunscreen rant”. But from some of the threads and discussions here at NaturallyCurly.com, I fear that many of you are still putting yourselves at risk for skin cancer and premature sun damage. For example:
“I started to tan again on Friday and then did it again on Saturday. Apparently the place just put in new bulbs cause my butt is way red and it hurts so bad I nearly started to cry in the shower.”
“I still think getting some base color so I don’ burn for a week straight is a lot safer then just showing up all fresh and new and frying all my skin off.”
Let’s be clear about this right up front — getting a tan, ANY tan, from any source, means that your skin is damaged. And it will NOT offer you any protection from getting a burn. You are still at risk for possibly developing skin cancer.
Recent studies indicate that skin cancer rates are climbing. Many people have misinterpreted this data to mean that sunscreens don’t work. This is a myth. Sunscreen doesn’t work because most people don’t use enough of it properly.
Take a one-ounce shot glass like those used in a bar to measure alcohol. Fill it up to the brim with broad-spectrum sunscreen; preferably with a sun protection factor of 30, which blocks about 95% of radiation.
That is the MINIMUM amount you should be using when you will be out in the sun. Apply it evenly over ALL exposed skin, 15 to 20 minutes before going outside.
If you are going to be swimming or doing any activity that will make you sweat in the summer’s heat, choose a waterproof or water-resistant formula and make sure you reapply sunscreen after towelling off.
Another recurrent myth I’ve seen in the CurlTalk forums:
“If you use the Bare Minerals makeup, that works as sunscreen.”
Bare Minerals claims an SPF of 15 for their foundation, while Jane Iredale claims SPF 20. Neither Aromaleigh nor Glo Minerals state an SPF for their foundations, though each company states that they offer “broad spectrum” protection.
But, as I point out often, do you put your foundation EVENLY all over your face, neck and ears?
Don’t rely on your foundation, mineral or otherwise, to provide you with protection from the sun.
That phrase “broad spectrum” is also important. The SPF ratings on most products only measure protection from UVB radiation, the type that causes sunburn. UVA radiation is the deeply penetrating type that causes aging. Look for a product that protects against both types of radiation. The Coppertone Spectra sunscreens with micronized zinc offer this type of protection, as does Neutrogena’s new Ultra Sheer with Helioplex.
Consider your clothing options too. Rit, the company that makes fabric dyes to use at home, manufactures a product called Sun Guard that treats fabric with a compound called Tinosorb. It offers an SPF of 30 for up to 20 washings. This product is available directly from the company website for American consumers only.
The colour of your clothing also makes a difference. In a Consumer Reports article on the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation website last month, it was reported that blue clothing is five times more effective than white clothing at blocking UV rays, because blue absorbs more light.
In the May 2006 issue of Allure magazine, in a special section called “Sun & Skin S.O.S”, is an article called “The Book of My Body” by Katherine Harrison. Harrison developed malignant melanoma at the age of 25 after spending her teen years baking herself in the sun. While her diagnosis was made 20 years ago, a study published last summer in The Journal of the American Medical Association found that skin cancer rates are rising at an alarming rate in women under the age of 40. The researchers from the Mayo Clinic In Rochester, Minnesota found that rates for basal cell carcinoma tripled between 1976 and 2003, and that the rates for squamous cell carcinoma quadrupled during the same period.*
And a study at Dartmouth Medical School published in the British Medical Journal last September found an alarming increase in rates of melanoma in Medicare users in the US between 1986 and 2001.*
While basal cell and squamous cancers are not as serious as melanoma, if left untreated, they can be disfiguring or fatal.
I’m going to offer one more post from another CurlTalker. Earlier this year, I had an opportunity to meet a young woman that I have “known” here for the 7 years that she and I have been members. When posting about our meeting, I remarked that she seemed more like my sister than my daughter, even though I am old enough to be her mother. This was her reply:
“I seemed more like a sister than a daughter because she LOOKS SO YOUNG!!! Everyone here should listen to her sunblock advice — it’s working 100% for her!”
Sun exposure is what ages our skin. Don’t spend $100 buying a jar of some new “miracle” product to reverse sun damage. Spend $10 on a bottle of sunscreen and use it properly to prevent the damage in the first place. With the other $90 buy a great hat and fabulous sun glasses and some Sun Guard to wash into your clothes.
Enjoy the summer safely! For more information: www.skincancer.org
*Citations: JAMA, August 10, 2005; 294: 681-690 / BMJ 2005; 331:481 (3 September”>
| Majoring in Curls | |
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| Email your questions to Aimee. |
We’ve finally reached those lazy, hazy, crazy days of summertime. I love summer, especially the cool nights when you can sit outside forever. That is, if the mosquitoes and black flies don’t eat you alive first. And I know that there is nothing more relaxing than going to the beach and not doing a thing – no papers, professors or exams to worry about. You can just grab a book and a drink and kick back in the sun.
However, the sun and the heat can wreck complete havoc on your hair. Extremely hot, humid conditions are not the best for any hair type. But it is a complete pain in the neck to deal with curly hair in the summer.
In the summer it’s so easy to ignore what your hair really needs, and that’s protection. I cannot stress enough that the first and best way to keep the humidity from turning your tresses into a big frizzy mess is protection and conditioning. We all know the dangers of UV rays and the damage it can do to our skin. So in addition to the sunscreen you should be wearing everyday, a good sunscreen for your hair is a smart addition. I know that there’s no such thing as getting a hair burn — these are the smart things we learn about in college — but intense contact with the sun means drier and more brittle hair, as well as color changes for you ladies who color.
Those UV rays and the heat can also damage your scalp and hairline, so using a sun block formulated for hair will help keep that delicate skin nice and burn-free!
Second, curly hair is dry! You know it and I know it. It’s the cardinal rule in most curly bibles to moisturize those locks. But in extreme conditions like the dead of winter and the peak of summer, this rule is doubly important. You don’t need to wash your hair everyday because that alone will cause frizz. But using conditioner is the Holy Grail. Whatever brand you buy, use it. Your hair needs that extra moisture because the sun works just as hard to suck it right out. If your hair is extra frizzy (like mine”>, a light leave-in conditioner in addition to the basic conditioner will work miracles. It will also give your hair an extra fruity or beachy scent, depending on your taste.
As much as I love swimming, I’ve found that water can also be a problem for your hair. Whether you’re swimming in a pool, lake, or the ocean, swimming can be pain, especially if you’ve got a lot of hair. If you don’t mind keeping it down, the damp hair will give you that water nymphy look, which is great. Just don’t run a brush through it when it’s wet. Tugging on wet strands will break hair to no end, and when your hair dries, it will frizz. Use your fingers to gently get knots out. For those of you who can’t stand wet hair flopping around and hitting you in the face, a loose ponytail or braid looks divine as well. But be careful not to pull it too tight. Any extreme pulling is asking for trouble — and frizz. Use your fingers to comb the hair back into a tail or braid.
At the end of a hot summer day, we all know the feeling of lingering sand and a head full of chlorine or salt. Whenever I leave a pool, my hair feels squeaky clean (in a bad way”> and it screams for some conditioner. In my trusty summer bag, along with the ever present bottle of sunscreen, I carry a small bottle of a light leave-in conditioner. Whenever I get out, I just squeeze a little in my hands and comb it through. If you want a little more curl control, make a hair cocktail by mixing it with a little gel.
Take care of those curls!
Q: I have a 9-year-old daughter with a lot of kinky to wavy blonde hair. It is all one length — about 1 inch below her shoulder. She has so much hair that she looks like a cave girl. Is there a cut you would recommend to give it some shape? No one knows what to do with it.
Cozy: How lucky your daughter is to have hair like that! It sounds like what your daughter needs is a great haircut with some long layers and some of the “bulk” taken out in order to enhance her wavy hair and give it body. I always recommended bringing a photo from a magazine that shows the type of hairstyle you would like her to have. That way, the stylist knows what you are looking for. I would also recommend a nice finishing product for her hair to help shape and control it throughout the day. I recommend So Cozy Styling Cream for her because it is a light formulation that won’t weigh her hair down, and will prevent the “cave girl” look you are referring to.
Q: We have a sixth-grade Caucasian female whose long hair looks exactly like Rachel True’s Type 3c hair. She is self-conscious about the appearance of her hair. The more active she is (track, basketball”>, the worse her hair looks. She was in her first beauty revue — her aunt had “ironed” her hair almost smooth — but by the time she made her stage appearance, her hair was big and frizzy from all the humidity. One of the judges commented about how her hair “hurt” her score. The mother has tried all kinds of products to smooth out the hair. What can be used to “smooth” the hair and keep it from turning into tight corkscrew curls in humidity? This is really interfering with her self-esteem, and will likely worsen as she gets older.
Cozy: Everyone knows that people with curly hair want straight hair, and vice-versa. But it is so important this girl to accept and embrace her beautiful curly hair! When she is exposed to humidity, the hair is going to curl and there isn’t much she can do about it. Instead, she (and you”> should focus on enhancing her curls and preventing frizz. When bathing, she should use a nice creamy conditioner (I like So Cozy Sweet Strawberry”> and leave a little in on the ends. After bath, she can squeeze out excess water and scrunch in Styling Gel with her head upside down, evenly distributing it throughout hair. I use So Cozy Groovy Grape Styling Gel, which is alcohol-free and won’t dry out the hair. Do NOT comb or brush. Let hair dry naturally about three quarters of the way and finish drying with a diffuser. When finished, she can scrunch in a little bit more gel, just to finish it off and smooth the curls.
Q: My biracial daughter (black and white”> just got diagnosed with seborrheic dermatitis. Before she was diagnosed, this was one big headache, and now I have two. Her hair is a mix between 3c, 4a, and 4b. When she was about three, she cut her ponytail out and now her hair is coarse 4b at her crown. She wants to wear her hair down, but she can’t because her hair is so thick in the middle and fine around the perimeter. Her scalp is always dry, hence the dermatitis. And her hair is dry as well. I was using Garnier Fructis, and then switched to Pantene for Relaxed and Natural Hair, and Nexxus Humectress as a leave-in conditioner, which aren’t helping. My mother uses hot combs and flatirons on her hair so that she won’t be embarrassed when she takes her to church. As a result, her hair is riddled with split ends and breakage.
I am at my wits’ end about how to let my 7-year-old daughter’s beautiful hair be natural and manageable. Do you have suggestions about what I can do?
Cozy: Most people do not realize how important it is to take care of the scalp, not just the hair! Here are three important instructions for you: Moisturize, Moisturize, Moisturize! Her hair and scalp are begging for products and hair dressings that have shea butter in them. Shea butter contains natural fatty acids, and also has a high content of Vitamin A, E & F. These vitamins contribute to the regeneration process of skin and can be extremely effective in treating and soothing dry skin. You should also look for products with aloe and glycerin. They are also very effective in soothing and replenishing moisture. There are so many on the market that it can definitely be overwhelming.
A good place to start is on CurlMart, where only the best products are sold for all different types of hair. An especially good product line is Blended Cutie, which contains both shea butter and aloe. You might want to try Blended Cutie Curls & Swirls, Butter Me Up! and Down & Out Styles.
Q: My autistic son is 3 years old with very curly hair — probably a 3a/3b. I currently use Johnson & Johnson shampoo on him once a week, and a very tiny amount of my own conditioner if he needs it. I also use a home-made detangler made with a watered-down version of my conditioner. I put a little leave-in conditioner on his hair whenever he gets the frizzies. Because of his autism, the whole grooming process is very traumatic for him, and he won’t go anywhere near the bathroom for days after his wash day. The entire act is just very stressful for him. The worst part is trying to rinse it out. I’ve tried bath caps and swimming goggles, but it didn’t work. Do you know of a dry or no-rinse shampoo that is safe for toddlers? I found one at Walgreens, but no one at the store knew if it was toddler safe.
Cozy: The grooming process of a three-year-old isn’t easy under the best of circumstances. So with an autistic child, it is even trickier. Autistic children are so sensitive to the way things feel that a simple hair wash can be a major event for them. What is important for you to try to do is to have the most simple and speedy grooming regimen possible. I recommend a 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner. That will save time. You should also try to have him hold a wash cloth over his eyes in the tub when rinsing his hair. A lot of times, it is the water dripping down the child’s face that is so upsetting to them. I have also seen “bath visors” that children wear to prevent drips. To take care of the frizzies, you do it without him knowing you are doing it. Try scrunching in a light Styling Cream (I recommend So Cozy Kooky Kiwi”> while he is brushing is teeth or busy with something else. Distraction is the key to life with young children!
Q: My daughter used to be a 3a/3b as a toddler/preschooler. But now she’s almost seven and her curls have relaxed, and she is more a 2a. A few years ago, we started using Aveda Be Curly and then Aveda Confixor, a light gel. Now, whether we use that combo or anything else, her hair ends up looking stringy and blah. It is slightly wavy on top, and more curly toward the ends. When it’s still wet, it looks great. But then it relaxes and looks kind of dull. We have had a hard time getting a decent haircut (any suggestions in Seattle?”>. I was thinking that it would perk up with a haircut. But even after taking an inch off, it doesn’t do much. Her hair is a bit longer than her jaw when dry. It is slightly layered, but the last stylist thought that too many layers was part of the problem. Our problem is basically the opposite of frizz: lank hair. I would welcome any cutting or styling advice. It seems the less I do to her hair the happier we would all be, so any advice would be greatly appreciated by everyone in my family.
Cozy: You shouldn’t give up on layers. Perhaps her layers are the wrong length. Long layers sound like they would solve some of your problems. Continue to trim the base of the hair regularly to avoid split ends. You should try a light styling cream rather than a gel, because it sounds as though the gel is weighing down her hair and making it limp and lank.
Q: My child’s hair is, in my best estimation, mostly 3a. As an infant, his short, fuzzy hair was very straight. But as it finally started growing when he turned two, I spotted his curls starting to make their appearance. At that time, I stopped using shampoo on him (about the same time I stopped on my own hair”>, and have always used whatever conditioner and gel I use on myself. His curls turn to waves if they’re cut too short.
Lately, over the last two months or so, it’s like his hair has started changing in texture. Even though I’m still keeping it the same length as always was, it seems sort of limp and looks more like 2a or 2b waves. When I first wash his hair and put the usual product in it, it looks normal and curly. But by the end of the day, it is flat and limp has hardly any curls left — only ill-defined waves. I clarify his hair on a regular basis, using either baking soda or apple cider vinegar. Any thoughts or suggestions on what I can do to keep his curls from going into hiding?
Cozy: The first thing you should do is start using children’s hair-care products for your son, because they are more gentle and will provide him with the vitamins and nutrients a child needs. Washing his hair once or twice a week with a gentle, tear-free shampoo is a good idea. A leave-in conditioner would also be a good idea. When the hair starts to look flat and limp, just use your hands and scrunch his hair to re-activate the conditioner. I recommend So Cozy Fruity Delight, which contains wheat protein and panthenol to strengthen the hair while keeping it smooth and shiny.
Q: My 2.5-year-old son is biracial, and up until eight months ago had little more than peach fuzz on his head. I believe he is a 3c, and though it is still very thin in places (and very fine”>, the length varies from 1.5-4 inches (longest on back of his head”>. His curl is very nice right after I comb it, but gets fuzzy very quickly. I also fear that I may not be caring for it correctly and could be damaging it. How do I know if he is over or under conditioned? How do I know if he is sensitive to protein? Are silicones always bad?
Currently my hair routine with him is:
- Shampoo once a week with L’oreal Kids conditioning shampoo (it has sulfates, but I think we still need the tear-free feature”>
- Garnier conditioner for frizzy,hard to control hair with a few drops of coconut oil mixed in. I don’t rinse.
- Finger and tangle comb to remove tangles, then extra soft boar-bristle brush to smooth and pull the curls together.
On non-shampoo days, this is my routine:
- I use Johnson & Johnson No More Tangles to wet his hair
- Finger comb to remove tangles, then tangle comb smooth out. ??some other products I’ve tried and didn’t like.
- Pink Lotion makes his hair greasier and frizzier. Styling cream does nothing. Gel is too stiff and requires us to wash his hair every day. Olive oil cream moisturizer is too heavy and practically pulls all his curls out, making it stringy. And organic suflate-free baby shampoo leaves his hair feeling too coarse.
Cozy: I’m glad to see that you aren’t over-washing your son’s hair. Once or twice a week is really all that you need. I find that many people are under the misconception that they need to do it everyday. You can cut your routine back by using a detangler that is also a leave-in conditioner. That way you are killing two birds with one stone. You really don’t need to use the boar-bristle brush on his hair. That is probably adding to the “fuzz factor.” Instead, use a wide-tooth comb in the tub while conditioning, and just scrunch in the detangler/leave-in conditioner after the bath. You will love So Cozy Fruity Delight Detangler (and so will your son”>. It smells so yummy and removes tangles like magic!
Burna Hunt was minding her own business when I approached her in the grocery store. I was drawn by the teeny, weenie platinum blonde Afro.
“Do nappy black blondes have more fun?” I asked her pointedly.
Burna first gave me a funny look. Since I have earned a reputation as a purveyor of nappiness, I’ve grown accustomed to such looks. More than a few have wondered whether anyone is home inside my dome.
When Burna saw that I really wanted to know whether nappy blondes have more fun, she leaned over on her shopping cart and contemplated my question. Then she smiled and said, “Yes, we do.”
“Something comes with age,” she said. “I’m a little more confident about myself. I get a lot of compliments on it, and I enjoy it.”
Then I asked what I really wanted to know. I asked whether people felt she went blond to keep from being black.
She quickly set me straight.
Burna told me that she didn’t go blond to keep from being black. She went blond to keep from being gray! Not ready to sport the salt-and-pepper look, Burna bleached her hair, not her mind.
“I am pro black,” she said. “Anybody who knows me knows that I love nappy hair. That’s part of being black. I don’t think having blonde hair takes away from that at all.”
Spoken like a sister with a strong sense of self.
Julia Rizzo
CurlyTeen Scene is a column especially for curly teens. Julia Rizzo is a teenager living in Central New York. When not writing, she enjoys acting, reading and snow skiing. She has loved writing as long as she can remember, and plans to pursue a career in English. She hopes her column will provide encouragement and inspire girls to love their curly hair.
Once again, it’s prom season! I’ve found a beautiful dress, great shoes, and a matching clutch. I’ve picked out beautiful jewelry, and I even have a date. The final touch — one of my favorites — is great accessories for my hair!
Hair accessories are a great way to add a splash of originality and creativity to your prom look. Whether you’re doing your hair yourself or getting it done at a salon, there are many options.
Flowers
For a spring formal, wearing flowers in your hair is fresh and romantic. Craft shops usually have a huge array of beautiful silk flowers. You can find wonderful colors to go with your dress, and since the synthetic flowers are more durable, you can bobby pin them into almost any style. Real flowers are also an option. But be sure to talk to a florist to see what’s in season in your area. Also, take into account how long they’ll last, if they can tolerate the heat, and how fragrant they are. Flowers that are used in corsages generally do well.
Barrettes
I use plain, plastic barrettes all the time in my everyday hairstyle, but a hairstyle can go from casual to opulent with the right barrette. They come in a variety of sizes, from small ones (great for holding back a few stands of hair”> to large ones suitable for even the curliest hair; although they do tend to get a little harder to find as they get bigger. When shopping for a barrette, look for one that complements your jewelry and hair color.
Combs
Combs are truly timeless, and look great with classic or vintage styles. They can be used to hold hair back, anchor buns, or anchor a twist. They’re also great for keeping your hair out of your face if you’re wearing it down. Combs range from simple gold and silver to ornate filigree and crystals.
Hair Sticks
Hair sticks, with a little bit of practice, can be used to craft truly unique up-dos. Traditionally hair sticks were only practical for girls with long hair (past shoulder length”> but new shorter hair sticks — measuring about four inches — are great for girls with shorter or thinner hair. Curly hair usually has texture and body that is ideal for the types of styles hair sticks help create.
Floating Accessories
Floating accessories are usually crystals, jewels, or small designs that seemingly “float” in your hairstyle. They add texture and sparkle to a style, but don’t hold your hair in place. French pins are very easy to find; they are small bobby pins with a crystal design on the rounded end. Another option is hair magnets, which work great in textured or thick hair, making them perfect for curly girls. If your hair is thinner, choose smaller magnets, which are less likely to slip out. Hair snaps are even more secure.
And One More Thing
The possibilities are limited only by your creativity! If you make your dress or have your dress shortened, you can use the same fabric for a headband. If you really want to shine at prom, use your ingenuity to make yourself the belle of the ball!
Check out CurlMart for a great assortment of accessories.
Email your questions/comments to Julia
Of the approximately 2,650 species of palm, only a few are widely used by humans. The most popular is the edible coconut, and not far behind it is the African palm. Far out of the realm of highly touted palms, there is a prickly fellow gaining the attention of curly tops — it is called murumuru.
Astrocaryum murumuru
You may have seen this name on some of your favorite hair or skin care products, yet may feel in the dark about what it is and where it comes from. Murumuru and murui are the Portuguese names for Astrocaryum murumuru. In Spanish this tree is called chonta, chuchana and huicongo. Murumuru is in the family arecaceae; the genus Astrocaryum and the species Murumuru. The plant has spines or sharp edges that require proper precaution during harvest. Murumuru is prickled everywhere, even the seeds and flowers.
Murumuru grows in the Amazon Basins, enjoying a distinctive place in the local ecosystems as one of the dominant trees. It grows particularly well in Northern Brazil, especially Maranhao. Finding the tree on your own could prove tricky, however, because the species varies radically. It can be short and without stems or tall with more than one robust trunk. Murumuru has a shuttlecock-like crown at the top, with large, flat leaves that have very closely spaced leaflets and silvery undersides.
Murumuru nuts
Useful Parts of Murumuru
Oil is a common constituent of most types of seeds, and palms have large, abundant seeds. The palm nut is wildcrafted (meaning it is not cultivated”>. Many people prefer wildcrafted botanicals because they have not been treated with pesticides or fertilizers and are a very integrated part of their environment. Local people cherish Murumuru nuts for their numerous contributions to health and wellness. They also hold a special place in the folklore and mythology of several areas.
The oil derived from murumuru nut is used for many purposes. The large fruits are edible, and the seed kernel is a significant source of edible oil. The kernel also produces a rich extract used by the beauty industry for shampoos, conditioners and skin care products. A rich lather is derived from its kernels is useful in soaps and shampoos.
Integrating Murumuru into Your Beauty Regimen
Still, with so many types of oils available internationally you might wonder why folks go through all the stinging prickles to get to the fruit and seed of murumuru in particular. For one, the lipids present in the plant material hydrate and moisturize the skin and hair in a very intense way. The emolliency supports the integrity of the skin and your hair’s cutaneous barrier. Moreover, murumuru is chock full of nurturing vitamins and minerals. The nutty aroma of organic murumuru puts us in touch with Mother Earth — and is a tangible part of the great Amazon rainforest.
Pertinent specifically to visitors to NaturallyCurly.com, murumuru is especially useful to people of all ethnicities with kinky, curly or wavy hair because of its softening ability. Often, kinky, and some types of curly, hair feels coarse. Murumuru coats coarse curls, making them more supple and manageable. Products containing an appreciative amount of murumuru oil or extract are well suited to textured curls. Murumuru products moisturize the hair with lasting hydration, controlling frizz and defining curls.
Murumuru butter
The rich butter made from murumuru is a light amber color, with an earthen aroma. It is rich in oleic acid, which promotes health. Oleic acid-rich botanicals aid with moisture retention, benefiting the skin and hair. The emollient constituents in murumuru enhance the natural gloss of hair and provide sheen to naturally dull, kinky or highly textured hair. Murumuru ingredients also provide a healthy shine to chemically treated, over-processed or otherwise damaged hair.
Socially Responsible Products
If these stunning benefits were not enough to draw your attention, there is even more to murumuru. As mentioned earlier, murumuru is wildcrafted and this is done by local residents of Amazon communities. Purchasing Amazonian murumuru products helps remote communities gain income opportunities and strengthens local economies. This helps indigenous and rural communities retain or build economic independence. Utilizing products or botanical ingredients that have been purchased through fair-trade programs deters deterioration of local communities and the rich cultural heritage they support. It also slows down the economic drive for cutting down trees. The eco-system is allowed to function naturally as it has for many years. Through fair-traded products such as those containing murumuru, the community is rewarded for stewarding trees while the local economy is enhanced.
For example, the river-dwelling population of Marajo stopped cutting down trees including murumuru palm once they could generate income from the fruits and fallen seeds of the plants. Professional growth in harmony with natural resources is being referred to as ‘socially responsible entreprenuership’. In the following resources you will find a few of the companies promoting hair and skincare products that contain wildcrafted murumuru obtained using fair-trade programs.
Resources
- Several products in the Blended Beauty and Blended Cutie lines contain murumuru.
- Curl Junkie’s Hibiscus Banana Deep Fix contains murumuru.
- Florestas Organic Beauty at specializes in products containing Amazonian botanicals including murumuru and is based in Brazil but sells internationally.
- Anita Grant develops organic products using botanical ingredients gathered from around the world. The company utilizes products from small farming communities and makes arrangements with developing countries like Brazil, Ghana, Namibia, and Madagascar.
If you’re anything like me, you love that rush you get after a couple hours of solid exercise. You feel fit and amazing and ready to conquer the world! But let’s be honest, do you really want to deal with your hair after working out? There aren’t too many great options for getting your hair back into shape afterwards.
I’ve taken ballet and jazz classes at least three times a week since I was four. I might not be as ripped as other people, but I can dance rings around them! I have longer curly hair, and it’s hard to dance with my curls flying around and whipping me in the face. So with my usual stash of bobby pins and elastics, the hair usually goes into a high ponytail or bun. For those curly non-dancers who have sports practice every morning, or a session at the gym, you probably do the same thing. Maybe for shorter lengths, a headband or some clips will help hold it back.
After the workout, you all know what happens. The curls look a little wilted, and you get the little halo of damp curls (maybe frizz”> around your face. And when you take out all the hair doodads, you can still see the hair indent where the ponytail was. You have no idea what to do with it for the rest of the day!
Fear not, friends! I find that my hair springs back to life quicker and curlier if my hair is completely dry when I first put it up at the beginning of my workout. I know, it takes about a million years for our thick locks to dry. But it really bounces back easier this way. Along with the dry hair, I try not to yank the hair back in the ponytail. Not only is it not flattering for most faces to slick the hair back, but it doesn’t work for curlies as a rule. I don’t use a comb or brush to pull it back because that just creates a whole mess of frizz. Trying to get it that smooth and tight just causes breakage on any hair type. The looser the ponytail, the more intact the curls will be later on.
It is possible to reconfigure the hair by showering, styling, and diffusing all over again. But that is rather time-consuming. And time is something most college students don’t have enough of. I know all you students have no time for such trifles with all the studying you do!
I find that the best method for me is to carry around a small spray bottle wherever I go. My hair cocktail changes every once in awhile, but it usually consists of water, a little leave-in conditioner, and some thin gel. I don’t like putting thicker gels in because it clogs the spray pump. I just shake it up and spritz it all over. Most days I just get the curls barely damp and use my fingers to scrunch it back into place. You can experiment with practically anything: honey, avocado oil, olive oil, essential oils — anything that already works with your locks.
Happy exercising, my curlies!
Want More?
How do you care for your curls after a workout?
CurlyTeen Scene is a column especially for curly teens. Julia Rizzo is a teenager living in Central New York. When not writing, she enjoys acting, reading and snow skiing. She has loved writing as long as she can remember, and plans to pursue a career in English. She hopes her column will provide encouragement and inspire girls to love their curly hair.
Exams, homework, sports, dance, theater, babysitting. If there is one thing most of us curly girls have in common, it’s that we’re busy.
Sometimes it seems like there isn’t enough time in a day to get everything done! While we seem to remember (most of the time”> to take the dog out for a walk and finish our math homework, one aspect of our lives that we often forget is to take care of ourselves.
Sometimes, slowing down a little is the best thing you can do. Some of the best hair-care treatments take the most time. Whether you’re frazzled from a stressful week or you know you’re headed into a busy one, taking a minute out of your day to take care of yourself can make all the difference.
One of my favorite intensive care treatments is the hot-oil treatment. The Alberto V05 hot oil treatment is one of the most popular, and at $4, you can find it at almost any drugstore or grocery store. You simply stick the tube in a cup of hot water to warm it up, and massage it into your hair.
You can even make you own hot oil treatment. The homemade treatment takes a little more work than the VO5 tubes, but it’s all-natural and uses ingredients easily found in the kitchen. The simplest is a half-cup olive oil and a half-cup boiling water. You can add a few teaspoons of honey or a few drops of essential oils to the mixture to sweeten the smell. Shake the mixture well in a jar or bottle with a tight fitting lid until the oil has broken up, and pour it into your hands and massage it into your hair. (Caution: check the temperature before you pour it into your hands so you don’t burn yourself!”> After either treatment, wrap your hair in a clean, dry towel and wait 15 or 20 minutes, depending on how stressed your hair is. You can use the time to paint your nails, moisturize, read a good book or anything else you find relaxing! Next, rinse, rinse, rinse. Be careful of your footing; the shower may be slippery from all the olive oil.
Another good treatment is a deep conditioner. These usually come in the form of thick creams that you use much like normal conditioners, although you usually leave them in longer — anywhere from three to 15 minutes. Recently I’ve used Curlisto Deep Therapy Masque, which you can get on this website’s CurlMart. Herbal Essences Conditioning Balm is another one to try; it smells great and is quite inexpensive. These rely less on heat to soak into your hair, but be careful to rinse well. If you don’t get all the conditioner out, the product buildup will counteract the effects of the conditioning.
Life can be hectic, but there is nothing quite like the feeling of knowing you’ve spent some time on yourself! No matter what you’re doing, it’s always valuable and refreshing to take a little bit of time to take care of your body. After all, it’s what keeps you going!
Tell me what’s going on in your world? Feel free to write to me or ask me a question at curlyteenscene@naturallycurly.com. Looking forward to hearing from you!
Spring is truly in the hair. I have been a hairdresser for 28 years, and I feel it more now then ever before. A tidal wave, if you will, of curly girls are coming out from all over this Curlywurld. But we still have a lot of work a’head. We are still trying to understand this organic force of nature that is above us, and sometimes truly beyond us.Not to worry, as long as we stick together and be a part of the change.This world will be ours and curldomination will prevail .
Q: You, The Hair DresserSince you’re a leading stylist in the world of curly hair, I’d love to know some of the curly hair trends. It seems like stylists are always focused on growing curls out. But I’d love to cut my hair really short, and I need some ideas. I want a funky, Bohemian but current Afro for 3b to 3c hair. If you have any images, I’d love to see them. Lorraine: I agree with you. I love seeing shorter shapes- – just shapes in general. I have never met you so to be realistic, I can’t send you images. The truth is that it’s all about you and only you. Take a good long look in the mirror. Look at your hair right now as it is. Then imagine it shorter. Make sure you are honoring its naturalness. Also be sure to cut it dry, whatever you decide to do. And remember less is more at first.Q: I’ve been following a no-poo, conditioner wash-only routine for a week now, and it seems that my hair is getting less curly. I’m pretty bummed because I wanted to have beautiful curly hair, but I think I might need to go back to straightening it. I’m not sure I’m doing your routine right. On days that I don’t conditioner wash, my hair looks especially dull and stringy. Is it OK to conditioner wash everyday?
Massey: Straight BackwardsGirlfriend, don’t even go there with the straighteming thing. Are you threatening me or your hair? I think you’re not cleansing your hair properly. Maybe you’re using too much product? Make sure you rinse thoroughly. It sounds like you have a low frizz factor. Yes, it is OK to use conditoner to cleanse as long as you’re massaging and removing dirt particles and buildup from the scalp. Get out of the shower and scrunch upwards. Apply B’Leave-In first and then Angell. Clip hair at the roots and do not disturb until thoroughly dry. Loosen gel cast and your authentic self will prevail.
Q: After reading “Curly Girl” a few weeks ago, I decided to stop shampooing. My hair already feels healthier and looks better than it did when I was shampooing every day. My only problem is my mom is convinced that it’s gross to not wash my hair. She’s stick straight, of course. She just doesn’t get it. How do I explain to her that you don’t need to wash your hair everyday.
Massey: Mommy DearestWhen you are first telling someone you are not pooing your hair with detergents, you, of course, will get a reaction because shampoo is all we know. It is our only (brainwashed”> form of reference. It’s what we think clean is supposed to be. Remember: You are not washing laundry here. You are cleansing the most beautiful, priceless fabric in this entire world. Also your hair is visual. It is already looking better in this seemingly unconventional way. Your hair speaks for itself. Remember your scalp is an extention of your facial skin. Would you put shampoo on your face? Sodium lauryl sulfate, which is in all lathering shampoos, also is in dishwashing and laundry detergents.
Q: My hair looks pretty 3b, but underneath it is soooo curly and I get really bad shrinkage. I’m so tired of my hair never looking any longer because the more it grows, the more it shrinks and curls up on itself. It makes my hair look like a triangle. any suggestions to reduce shrinkage?
Massey: Talk To Your ShrinkHow frustrating is that! My hair does the same thing. I call them “hermet curls.” This is what I do: After cleansing with No-Poo and One Condition, I apply B’leave-in and Angell. Clip the ends of the hair to elongate the curls underneath. This provides extra gravity to those lightweight babies [ Curly Girl page 125]. I call it “weight a minute.”
Q: I find that my biggest issue with my hair is that the curls stack on top of each other. It really isn’t frizz. It’s just the curls get tighter and shorter as they dry, and there isn’t any other direction for them to go than up. Is this a haircut issue, or am I using the wrong products? I love my hair when it is wet. But as it dries, I stop liking it. I now use Frizz-Ease Serum. What should I do?
Massey: Up, Up And a ” Way “There is always a way. Have you tried growing your hair out? Obviously the weightlessness makes it contract and cluster. If you grew it out, gravity would bring the curls down and separate them. I suggest putting extra B’Leave In into your hair after you’ve One Conditioned. And finish off with some extra Angell. That also has weight-bearing elements. Also try putting clips on the ends of the hair as it dries to elongate the curls. When you use extra Deva products they don’t make your hair look or feel crispy. Frizz-Ease just sits on the hair and suffocates it.
Q: I’ve read the “Curly Girl” book and just started on your process of better caring for my Boticelli curls. My hair is rather dense and takes upwards of four hours to dry. Before I started your routine, I would let my hair air dry overnight. I’m trying to let it dry in the morning — getting up a few hours early. But this still doesn’t seem to be enough time. Should I continue to do this, or go back to letting my hair dry overnight? I’m pretty busy and am not terribly satisfied with the results I get when I diffuse. Any words of wisdom would be fantastic!
Massey: Sleep-in BeautyI think if you have been having better results sleeping on it, go back to that. Actually the clip routine is simulating weightlessness. It is a good alternative for when you’re horizontal rather than verticle. This is not for everyone. It’s better on longer, low-frizz factor Botticelli and Cockacelli curls.
Q: I have wavy/curly, thick hair. I love straightening it and everyone says how cute it is when it’s straight. I feel more confident with it straight, too. I never feel comfortable going out without it straightened. But it takes sooo long to do. Any ideas on how I can make it look sexy cury? I need more time to sleep!
Massey: Is Your Hair DYING To Tell You Something?It’s the placebo effect playing with your mind. If you don’t work with your own beautiful hair and you blow fry your curls, of course you’re going to get compliments, and your fake confidence rises. To me, that’s the equivalent of wearing a girdle that makes you look slimmer and makes your bust look larger. When you get home, you have to take it off and face the truth. One day, you find you’ve gotten tired of lying to yourself, and actually want to do something about it. Words aren’t going to do it. But if you want to come to New York City, we will give you an intervention workshop for when your’re truly ready to commit. I’m here for you.
I have a name for black women who suffered through the tortuous hair straightening sessions as children and lived to tell about it.
Adult Survivors of the Hot Comb. That’s ASH for short.
I know a lot of ASHy women. I’m one of them.
My sister survivors and I can share some pretty hair-raising stories of how we dodged smoking hot combs and endured applications of chemical relaxers so strong that they burned our scalps.
My friend Alpha is an unabashed ASH.
As part of her recovery, Alpha made a personal commitment to wear her hair natural for the rest of her life. And as long as she has a say in the matter, her 14-year-old daughter Noni will do the same.
The offspring of mothers like Alpha are people I call CASH. That’s short for Children of Adult Survivors of the Hot Comb.
CASH are the poor kids who are forbidden from wearing their hair any other way but nappy because their mothers were so negatively affected by the hot comb experience and don’t want their children to be.
“Noni can only wear her hair in its natural state,” Alpha says unapologetically. Noni has complained that some of her schoolmates tease her about her naturally kinky hair texture. But Alpha refuses to give in to her daughter’s pleas to get a perm. Instead of giving her a perm, Alpha showers Noni with affirmations and tells her how beautiful she looks wearing her hair in its natural state.
My friend Amenta, who is also ASHy and proud, is just as strict with her teenagers Jennifer and Jesse. She won’t let heat or chemicals touch their hair. You probably think that Alpha and Amenta are being unfair. You think that they should not impose their ‘hair issues’ on their children.You think that they are just as bad as the women who made us wear our hair straightened or relaxed when they were young.
But Alpha and Amenta maintain that they are working from a different mindset than the well-meaning but misinformed elders who were obsessed with neutralizing our naps.
They maintain that our elders were conditioned to operate from a foundation of self-hatred. Alpha and Amenta insist that they are setting a foundation of self-love.
“I want to give them the love of self right now,” Amenta says.
She says that she wants to protect her children from the harmful psychological effects of the “good-hair-bad-hair” madness that is still prevalent in the black community. She is also no fan of the harm that the hot comb and chemical relaxers can cause.
“I know when they grow up they are going to do what they want to do with their hair,” Amenta says “But I hope that in the end they will come back to being natural.”
Says Alpha: “I feel no guilt in not allowing Noni to be something that she isn’t.” She says that she will give up her duties as natural hair enforcer when her daughter is mature enough to make her own decisions about how she wants to wear her hair.
“But right now,” Alpha says emphatically, “I have jurisdiction over that nappy head!”
Until next month, uplift your locks!
When people compliment me on my skin and how good I look for my age (almost 46″>, I give all the credit to sunscreen usage. But the truth is that I also learned long ago how to wear foundation for maximum benefit.
This is one product that not every woman needs. If you have the same perfect translucent skin as Scarlet Johanssen, don’t even think about wearing foundation – you will be able to get away with concealer where you need it and a dusting of powder.
The rest of us most likely need some foundation on part or all of our face. In my case, it’s necessary to hide the diffuse redness caused by broken capillaries resulting from harsh Canadian winters, cumulative sun exposure and blowing my nose all allergy season. I also have brown patches from the drug therapy to treat my hormone-related illness, and some residual scarring from a bout with teenage acne. All in all, not a pretty picture.
At least not until I get out my tubes and pots and start applying the lotions and potions that even out my skin tone!
Foundation is one makeup product where price can make a difference. Drugstore foundation colours are, for the most part, limited in shade range – especially for darker skin tones – and tend to be too pink for most people to wear well.
A notable exception is the L’Oreal True Match line. This light-weight, liquid foundation comes in 24 shades coded warm, cool and neutral to suit every tone. It’s also very affordable and regularly discounted in drugstores, making it an excellent choice for those new to makeup or on a budget.
In North America, the end to the era of pink-toned foundations came with the introduction of the Prescriptives line by the Lauder Corporation in 1979. Not only has this small branch of the major makeup conglomerate been a forerunner in the introduction of more natural colours, they’ve also been innovators in the area of product development, creating foundations that seem to disappear into the skin rather than sitting on top of it. The originators of the “color-printing” method of finding your perfect foundation shade also offer custom-blended foundation and powder at a price many can afford.
The most difficult task when it comes to foundation is finding one that suits you. This is one reason why it is usually better to buy high-end, department store brands – you can try before you buy, while most drugstores no longer offer testers due to public health laws.
Find the two shades that you feel are closest to your skin’s natural colour without makeup, paint them on your jaw line back toward your ear – this skin tends to not get tanned or discoloured as we age. The colour that seems to “disappear” into your skin is the one that’s right for you. This is the method Prescriptives calls “color-printing”.
If you are in between two shades and can afford it, buy both. You will find that your skin darkens in the summer, even with daily sunscreen usage. I wear MAC NC 15 in the winter and NC 20 in the summer and mix them when necessary.
A couple of things to be aware of when it comes to foundations: DO NOT rely on them to provide you with sun protection. Most commercial liquid foundations appear to offer a maximum SPF of 15. Wear sunscreen underneath – even mineral foundations that claim SPF 20. DO NOT buy foundation in shades much darker than your own skin tone in attempts to try “special effects” like hollowing out your cheeks or slimming your nose. It is very difficult to place these properly on yourself and if you don’t blend carefully, the effect can be mask-like and harsh. And if you feel you “need” a tan, use a self-tanner to get one, not foundation.
Once you’ve found your shade, you have to decide on the finish you want on your skin. No longer are we restricted to liquid and pancake creams like my mother’s generation. Foundations are available in liquids, powders, creams, gels, sticks, sprays, liquid to powder, and cream to powder formulas. Your skin can be matte or dewy and everything in between!
The choices can seem overwhelming, so let personal preference be your guide. I like a matte finish, though I know this will have to go by the wayside in a few years as these lines become more pronounced – matte finishes tend to settle in wrinkles. However, the dewy look is far too shiny for my liking and can also magnify lines on aging skin.
Personal preference will also be your guide in application technique. I realize that some forms of foundation require a sponge or makeup brush for proper application, however I am a firm believer in using my fingers to apply it. Several years ago, I read an article in More magazine where makeup guru Bobbi Brown recommended using your fingers to apply foundation, essentially rubbing it into your skin. This gives the “flawless” look one sees in magazines without having to use a messy spray or an expensive primer underneath. Over time, I have found that it also allows me greater control in application, and that I only place the foundation where I need it.
Foundation should always be applied from the inside of your face out. You might have read that you should apply it from the top of your face down in order to help facial hair lie flat. But it is a rare person who would need foundation at their hairline, while most of us seem to need it around our nose the most. I always apply from around the nose and blend it outward.
Remember that concealer goes OVER your foundation and that you should set everything with translucent powder that closely matches the foundation.
Once you’ve found your shade and mastered the application techniques, laying a foundation for your colour makeup products will only add a few minutes to your beauty routine, and you’ll find that it’s time well spent!
Q: My hair is really driving me mad, and I need some advice! My hair is fine and soft (frizz isn’t such a problem”>. There’s quite a lot of it. However, the top layer of my hair is almost completely straight, while the bottom layers are curly to varying degrees (very tight corkscrews at the front, looser more wavy curls at the back”>. The result is that it looks a complete mess most of the time. I’ve tried scrunching/diffusing my hair but the curl on the top layers simply won’t hold. Do you have any advice about how to even out the curliness? I’m really fed up looking like I’ve got three different people’s hair! Every bit of advice I’ve seen in magazines assumes curly hair is dry and/or frizzy AND evenly curled. It seems like no one else has the same problem as I have!
Dana: I would try to add more layers at the top. Use products with extra hold, and try adding some pern rods or small rollers (available at beauty supply stores”> to the top area where the problem is. Use hair spray, made for curly hair, sit under the dryer or diffuse upside down until it’s 100 percent dry. Remove the rods and keep diffusing. Then flip your hair back. Fluff with fingers. Don’t comb or brush! Finish with holding spray.
Q: I’m Sophie, and I’m a 14-year-old girl with long, dirty blonde, curly hair. It’s about three inches below shoulder length. I’m looking for a new style for my hair because it’s getting a little boring. I’m looking for a shorter curly hair style that I could still put up in a ponytail because I play a lot of sports and it needs to be manageable. Maybe bangs or just wisps of hair?
Dana: Try an angled bob with long layers for variety. A few highlights would also be fun. Keep it at least neck length so you can wear it up or down
Q: I have long, naturally curly hair that is one length. I have a long, narrow face, and it is essential that I have height on the top. I’ve tried a couple of “root lift” products, but they just add weight and make it flat Without getting my hair cut in layers, is there a way to have tight curls and height on the top? Maybe a root perm? Or can you suggest a lifting/curl-enhancing product or technique that really works?
Dana: Try duckbill clips at the crown. Hold the hair at the top up and pin it with duckbill clips at the root area. Try a holding spray and diffuse your hair upside down until it’s 100 percent dry. Then flip it back and fluff it with your fingers. You might also want to try longer layers. They do make a big difference.
Q: The hair on my scalp is naturally thick and dry. One memorable, sad experience was when I went to a different hairdresser two years ago. This guy was extremely reckless and unprofessional as he ”plucked out” my hairs using his scissors along the edge of my fringe (around the left side area above my forehead”> from my scalp. To this day, that horrible experience left an island of semi-baldness and short sparse hairs within an otherwise normal area of scalp hair. There is hair growing, but it’s really thin (I can see through the hair and notice my scalp”>. Secondly, the hair is very loose and does not stand up like the rest of my dry, thick hairdo in the front, which makes it look very uneven. I have been looking for a hair care specialist who has expertise in semi-bald hair problems, and certainly one who can suggest to me effective natural remedies to repair the damage quickly. Bottom line: I want to restore it 100 percent. What can you suggest?
Dana: I’m sorry to disappoint you, but you have to be patient and grow out your hair. It will take at least 6-12 months. If your hair is very thick, curly and dry, use products rich in moisture and do deep treatments at least once a month. I also recommend supplements like biotin, which will help speed the growth.
Q: My hair is very strange, It curls naturally in the back. But the front is usually stick straight. Most hairstylists don’t know what to do with it. What should I do?
Dana: Try adding some layers at the front . Then curl it with a curling iron or set it in rods using a good holding spray. You can also try a soft perm on the straight area only!
Q: I have big curly/wavy hair and I want something that won’t give me volume — or at least not too much volume. Can you please recommend a hair styling product I could get in a drugstore?
Dana: Are you brushing your hair after you wash it? Try combing it in the shower only to remove tangles, with a wide-tooth comb, then rinse conditioner only half-way out, leaving a little slip feeling. Gently towel dry by squeezing the water off the hair and use conditioning spray. Comb it with your fingers. Then style by sections, starting with the back and moving forward. Use a liquid gel like Ouidad Tress FX or Paul Mitchell Styling Glaze, smoothing the hair with your fingers. Use a lot of product — enough to soak your hair. Then diffuse until it’s 100 percent dry without touching hair. After it’s dry, use a hair serum to break up crunch by smoothing it back like you’re making a ponytail. Hold it and then spray it with a styling spray, and leave it alone. If that doesn’t work, try a texturizer to soften your curls. Remember: A brush and curls don’t mix!
Greetings Nappies and Wannabes!
As crusader of nappiness and things related, I receive many calls and emails from people who have had ‘hair-rowing’ experiences and expect me to tell them how to cope. I don’t profess to have all the answers but I do my best.
Here are a few of their stories and my two cents:
Dear Mosetta: I took my 6-year-old daughter to spend the weekend with her grandmother. Her hair was nappy when I dropped her off. But when I picked her up, she had a perm. I was devastated. I told my mother she had no right to take such liberties and relax my baby’s hair. She told me it was for the best. I love my mother but how can I get her to see that she should have asked permission first? Feeling Shafted
Dear Shafted: With all due respect, it seems that your mother thinks that the only good nap is the one you take when you need to get some sleep. Your mother stripped your child’s hair of its virginity because she got some bad information back in the day. I’m sure she meant no harm. You cannot undo what she did, but all is not lost. Your little girl is still growing and so will a new layer of nappy hair.
Dear Mosetta: My co-worker is in love with my locks and is forever putting her hands on them. She may think my locks are cool but her unsolicited fondling is making me hot. How do I keep her hands out of my hair? Unhappy Nappy
Dear Unhappy: That’s easy. Can you say Glovers Mane or Sulfur 8? Slather one of those “‘fragrant” pomades in your hair before heading to the office. The next time girlfriend reaches out to touch, her fingers will carry a smell that will seriously clash with her Chanel. That will break her habit of touching your hair without permission. But if you continue to use that old-school grease in your hair, don’t get mad if she starts asking whether you ever wash it!
Dear Mosetta: I am addicted to creamy crack. At the first sign of new growth, I rush to the hair salon to get a touch up. Can you help me break this habit? Oppressed Tress
Dear Oppressed: Congratulations! You have taken the first step to recovery by acknowledging your addiction. When your hair has been on drugs for a long time, it is not always easy to snap back to nappiness. Take it one strand at a time. To get motivated, start hanging out at natural hair salons or find a natural hair support group where you can commune with kinky kindred spirits who can help you stay “on coarse.”
It is Black History month and I am stifling my urge to rant about why it has to fall on the shortest month of the year. I am also refraining arguing a good case on why our historical contributions should be celebrated all year round.
But instead of trying to preach, I’m going to teach.
Taking advantage of this month-long focus on black history allows me to share some interesting moments in black hairstory:
Contrary to popular belief, the ‘weapon of nap destruction,’ more commonly known as the hot comb, was not invented by businesswoman Madame C. J. Walker. Madame Walker’s “mane” claim to fame was the line of black hair care products that she developed for black women. The hot comb was invented in France, circa 1845, but Madame Walker can be credited with popularizing it in the United States in the 1900s when she sold black women on the concept of the “press and curl.” Her business acumen made her the first female American self-made millionaire, according to the Guinness Book of World Records where she was listed in 1910. In 1998, the United States Postal Service honored Madame Walker by issuing a commemorative stamp with her image.
Michael Jackson’s ‘nap denial’ catches up with him in 1984 during the filming of a Pepsi commercial. A special effects mishap caused sparks to ‘activate’ the oil slick on his curly perm and his hair caught on fire.
In 1986, Cheryl Tatum was a cashier for the Hyatt Regency in a suburb of Washington, D.C. when she resigned from her job after being told that her cornrow hairstyle was unacceptable and she was at risk of being fired. She filed a discrimination complaint against the hotel with the Equal Opportunity Commission and won.
In 1999, curators of the Smithsonian Institution officially integrated the Afro into the American cultural heritage. The hairstyle, also referred to as a ‘fro, ‘bush,’ and
a ‘natural,’ came out during the late 1960s and for many became statement more than style. Barber and stylist Nathan Mathis, also known as “Nat the Bush Doctor,” gained popularity for his knack with styling the Afro, but it was the Afro-wearing activist Angela Davis, who raised its profile as a symbol of black power in 1970 when her image appeared on the FBI’s 10 ‘most wanted’ list.
The following year, Melba Tolliver, a black correspondent for the ABC affiliate in New York, was promptly booted from her television assignment for wearing an Afro when she covered Tricia Nixon’s wedding.
Until next time, celebrate your hairitage and stay true to your ‘do!
