By Christina Patrice · Published May 28, 2014

PHOTO SOURCE TAMERA MOWRY

The second my stylist took a hack at my heat damage and  I saw 4+ inches hit the floor, I panicked. I had second, third, fourth, fifth, and sixth thoughts about what I was doing. I knew going in that when I emerged from the chair, my hair would be considerably shorter than it had ever been.

I was terribly self-conscious because I had only chopped all my hair off once, and it was straight, blonde, and fly. This, this chop thing was totally different. Even though I had 21 months of growth, my hair was extremely curly and shrunken thanks to the multiple textures of my mane. But nearly 3 months later, I look back and wonder why I was so worried. Big chopping, although nearly 2 years into my transition, was the best decision I had ever made for my hair.

In the world of natural hair, there are two ways to go about taking your mane from a damaged, and sometimes unhealthy mess to a head full of gorgeous kinks, coils, curls, and waves. One method is transitioning for a given amount of time, and then chopping your ends whenever you feel comfortable. The other, more gutsy method is to big chop. Big chopping involves straight up cutting all your hair off and starting from scratch. It can be exhilarating, fun, edgy….and a total nightmare.

In a culture where beautiful hair is the currency, it can be absolutely difficult to feel attractive after getting rid of something you’ve had your whole life — long hair. And even if prior to chopping your hair didn’t go past your chin, you still had more then than you have post chop. I won’t pretend to know the feeling of waking up the morning after BC-ing, and realizing that there is no more than an inch of hair atop my head. I transitioned for 21 months to avoid that very feeling. But because I chopped before my goal length, I know exactly what it feels like to have less hair than you’ve ever had, and to have to actively work at loving your hair and feeling beautiful.

Before you big chop:

These tips will be vital to big chopping with confidence, and being armed with information will help you navigate the first stage of your hair journey.

Will you transition first? For how long?

Most TWAers transition anywhere from 1 to 6 months to avoid a super low cut.

The TWA Stage

Understand how long you will be in the TWA stage. Depending on the texture, amount of shrinkage, and growth rate of your hair, the TWA stage will last anywhere from 1 to 4 years. Be prepared for that.

Your Regimen

After you’ve made up your mind to chop, be sure to take the time and develop a regimen for yourself that works. Because a TWA (although thick”> is not tons of hair to play with, selecting products that work well at keeping your hair moisturized, strong, and growing will be key. The TWA stage is the best time to experiment with products for moisturizing, nourishing, and styling the hair — because if you don’t like a product, doing a 2nd or 3rd wash day in a row won’t be a terrible nightmare. Enjoy that product experimentation now, because as your hair grows, detangling, washing, and styling will become more time consuming.

Hide your stash

Alongside developing your regimen, be sure to trash or put away all the things that will have you second-guessing your decision. This is a piece of advice I offer to long-term transitioners as well.  If after you chop, there is still a relaxer kit somewhere in your house, throw it out. Stash your flat iron somewhere you’ll forget about it, give it away, or put it in someone else’s care for the time being. The same goes for hair tools you won’t have any immediate need for, like scrunchies, updo clips, and even fine toothed combs. Do everything possible to prevent going back on or getting down on yourself about your decision, by removing those things from around you. Also, if you’ve decided to pursue an ingredient-conscious natural hair journey, be sure to chuck any products that contain ingredients you won’t be using–such as isopropyl alcohol, petroleum, or mineral oil.

Have fun!

Once you’ve got your regimen together and your no-no products and tools out of sight, you’re ready to have some fun with your TWA. The TWA presents a unique opportunity to be fashion forward, edgy, and daring with bold prints, bright colors, and eye-popping designs. Even if you aren’t a fashionista at heart, there are certain accessories and pieces you can use to amp up the flavor and feel gorgeous –like super cute earrings, a studded headband, or dazzling statement necklace. And don’t forget the makeup! You can also use your TWA time to experiment with colors and hair dye that will add richness and dimension to your cut — especially as it grows out.

WATCH: Priscilla’s 2nd Big Chop!

PHOTO SOURCE STARKANDIGIRL

TWA Maintenance:

Moisturize daily

Protect your TWA at night

Clarify, strengthen, and do deep treatments

Be your own kind of beautiful!

This tip is above all, he most important. Define your beauty for yourself, be confident in who you are, and the decision you made. Hair grows, life goes on, and at the end of the day, you have to be comfortable in your own skin. Embrace your beauty, courage, and determination as a woman who has decided to embark on a personal and hair growth journey. You were beautiful before you cut your hair, you are beautiful with your TWA, and you will continue to be beautiful as your hair grows.

By Christina Patrice · Published May 16, 2014

Sometimes, the ingredients listed on products sound creepier or more confusing than they actually are. Thanks to an overabundance of information on sulfates, silicones, parabens, petroleum, and other potentially naughty ingredients, products that don’t have plainly understood ingredients like coconut oil and botanical extracts are often frowned upon by curly girls.

What is Glyceryl Stearate?

Glyceryl stearate is the end result of reaction between glycerin and stearic acid. We all know what glycerin is and does (generally vegetable based humectant”>, and stearic acid is a fatty acid compound extracted from a variety of vegetable, animal, and oil sources such as palm kernel and soy. The end result of the reaction with glycerin and stearic acid is a cream-colored, waxy like substance.

What does Glyceryl Stearate Do?

Glyceryl stearate helps give products the creamy smooth feel we love

Glyceryl Stearate is a popular cosmetic ingredient in everything from mascara to conditioner. But for hair products in particular, glyceryl stearate helps give them the creamy smooth feel we curlies love, and softens our hair. Additionally, glyceryl stearate helps form a protective barrier on the hair to prevent moisture loss, and also fight free radical damage.

Is it Harmful?

According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG”> database, glyceryl stearate has a rating of 0, which means it poses no risk. There are no associated organ toxicity (reproductive and non”> concerns, no potential for environmental toxicity, or bioaccumulation hazards. Additionally, it has been recognized as safe for use as an additive in food by the FDA (although I can’t understand why anyone would want to eat waxy stuff”>. 

What Products Contain Glyceryl Stearate?

There are tons of products that contain glyceryl stearate. Some hair and cosmetic products I’ve encountered include Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Lavender Mint Moisturizing Conditioner,  Aunt Jackie’s Knot on My Watch, OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Conditioner, Design Essentials Natural Curl Stretching Cream, ORS Curls Unleashed No Boundaries Leave-In Conditioner, and As I Am Coco Shea Spray.

By Christina Patrice · Published May 15, 2014

Detangling

For many of us, it might as well be a four letter word. Some of us avoid it until our hair is on the brink of disaster, while others may do some form of it a few times a week or even daily. We all know the dangers of pushing detangling sessions too far back — from breakage and matting to cutting out clumps of knots. But what about detangling too frequently? Is there a such thing as doing too much detangling?

There’s an old adage that says, too much of anything is bad for you. By and large, that tends to be true. Detangling is great for releasing shed hairs, making the removal of buildup easier, and not to mention, it is the cornerstone of every fabulous natural hair style. But when done too often, detangling can lead to the following:

Hygral Fatigue

Every time we douse our hair in water, the shaft expands to accommodate the uptake in water. As it dries, the shaft contracts and returns to normal. This is a regular thing for all hair, and does not typically cause damage–except for when done in excess. Constant expansion and contraction (from doing daily wash and go’s or daily soaking wet detangling”> can cause damage to the cuticles and cortex of the hair, weakening them to the point of premature breakage. This does not mean that you should avoid moisture at all costs — just pull back to spritzes of water or a refresher, or light moisturizers and creams instead of dunking your hair in water. The best way to tell if you have hygral fatigue is to take a few strands of hair the next time you wet it, and pull them gently. If your hair springs right back to its kinky, coily, or curly self, then you’re good to go. If the hair takes a while to retract back (like an overstretched scrunchie”>, or just breaks in your hand, you’ve got hygral fatigue.

Excessive Cuticle Wear/Thinning Ends

Another pitfall of excessive manipulation via detangling is wear on the cuticles — especially the ends. Every time we touch our hair, we take a little cuticle with us. So even if you’re doing the most gentle, coconut oil-only, 3 hour painstakingly slow detangling session, you’re still causing your hair damage. When done on a regular basis (not excessive”>, the results should not significantly impact your hair health and length retention. But if your hands are in your hair detangling constantly, expect every move of a comb, fingers, or denman to chip away at the cuticle of your hair. You may not notice it at first, but gradually the ends will begin to thin out and look wiry.

You may even find that your hair is having difficulty retaining moisture, because excessive detangling/combing has led to chipped cuticles along the shaft, causing moisture to be lost. If it’s not too late, cut back on detangling and combing sessions now. To prevent further damage, begin incorporating protein treatments (like Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask, Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus Protein Deep Conditioner, or ApHogee Curlific Texture Treatment“> into your deep conditioning regimen, and use leave-ins with protein (like It’s a 10 Miracle Leave-In Plus Keratin, and ApHogee Keratin & Green Tea Restructurizer Spray“> to help patch up the cuticle.

[prodmod]

Breakage

All breakage is not preventable. Our hair wears and tears with everyday life, but that doesn’t mean everyday detangling is okay. Excessive manipulation via detangling and combing leads to more breakage than necessary — whether it be from hygral fatigue, worn down cuticles, or just mechanical stress. Hair without a white bulb on the ends (regardless of length”> is breakage. Seeing more bulb-less wisps of hair than not? Time to change up the routine.

Unnecessary Hair Loss

Even if your hair isn’t breaking excessively, chances are with every tug of a finger detangle, or move of a comb, you’re uprooting hair that isn’t ready to leave your scalp yet. Shed hair that has left your scalp and needs to be freed from entanglement will always have a white bulb on the end. Have you ever encountered a hair that had a dark brown or blackish bulb at the end? That’s a hair that was plucked directly from your scalp before it was ready to go! Everyday combing and detangling increases the likelihood of removing hair from your scalp that could still be well, hair on your head. Over time, hair may appear thinner and if done excessively, can cause trauma to the follicle to the point where hair will not regrow.

So, How Much is TOO Much?

The painful truth here is that there is no right answer. Just like detangling methods (wet, dry, damp, oil-only”> and tools (fingers, comb, Denman”>, the frequency with which to detangle is totally individual and only found through trial and error. Generally speaking, shorter TWA length hair of any texture, and looser curls and waves can be detangled more frequently without as much concern for adverse consequence. But for those looking to retain maximum length, or that are on a growth journey, less is always more.

I typically detangle and wash my hair every 4 to 6 days because I have scalp psoriasis and I work out regularly, so I need to remove sweat and dirt from my scalp. I have found that this works for my hair. Some detangle weekly and wash monthly. It’s up to you, and what your hair can handle. But for most textures, I would recommend not detangling more than twice a week. Overstepping this occasionally won’t wreak havoc on your hair. But remember what we discussed earlier? Too much of anything is bad for you and your hair.

The Bottom Line:

Our Hair Never “Fully” Detangles

One last thing to take into consideration before your next detangling session is: that our hair never fully detangles. Our kinks, coils, and curls looooooove each other so much that they’d rather buddy up together than remain apart. This is the main reason why many naturals wash and detangle their hair in sections, and twist or braid each section up as they go along. So even if after 2 hours your hair isn’t 100% tangle-free, that’s okay. We’re never going to get each and every single tangle out of our hair — it is an impossible task. So save yourself some time, a few broken hairs, and a heap of conditioner by aiming to have your hair between 80 and 90% detangled each time.

Christina Patrice is NaturallyCurly.com’s resident 3C product junkie, who documents her healthy hair journey through her blog, ManeObjective.com.

By Christina Patrice · Published May 9, 2014

But in truth, many products labeled “sulfate-free” contain sulfates still — just not SLS or ALS, which are the two harshest. There are more gentle sulfates that have been developed, and some SLS containing shampoos even have other ingredients that soften the blow of the sulfates.

Many products labeled “sulfate-free” contain sulfates still — just not SLS or ALS

But are sulfates really that bad? Or is there a possibility that the concern around them is a little overblown? Let’s explore 4 popular claims and whether they hold any weight:

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Sulfates Cause Cancer

Verdict: FALSE

There is no evidence that supports any claims that sulfates are carcinogenic in nature. Sulfates are generally recognized as being safe, which explains their presence in shampoos, body washes, detergents, and more.  I personally believe people confuse sulfates with parabens, which are believed to have some definitive links to breast cancer.

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photo Beginner Beans

Sulfates Cause Damage and Dryness

Verdict: TRUE

Jc of The Natural Haven explains this point perfectly, in terms of causing damage:

“Yes but then again so does water, combing, sunlight……pretty much everything except living in a dark room and never touching your hair.”

The truth is, even rinsing your hair with water causes some damage in the form of protein loss. Sulfates such as SLS and ALS cause more protein loss, but not substantially more. You’re likely to cause more damage to your hair by how you handle it, than by using sulfate containing shampoos.

As far as dryness is concerned, sulfates absolutely are responsible for making the hair feel dry. The primary function of sulfates such as SLS are to clarify, ridding the hair and scalp of oils, product buildup, and dirt. The end result is that your hair will feel stripped.

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Sulfates Are Irritating to the Scalp

Verdict: MAYBE

As clarifying agents and surfactants, sulfates are designed to strip the hair and scalp of natural oils. Because of this, the scalp retains less water/moisture and becomes dry and itchy. But at the same time, the sulfates may not be to blame for a dry, tight, or itchy scalp. Any number of the other ingredients in your shampoo from conditioning agents to preservatives can be responsible for scalp irritation.

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Sulfates Cause Frizz

Verdict: TRUE

Curl and coil clumping is encouraged with moisture. Sulfates like SLS and ALS strip the hair of natural moisture, and we all know what dried out hair does — frizz like there’s no tomorrow. Luckily, a good deep conditioner can help correct those frizzies.

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photo luvmykynxx

The Bottom Line

Are sulfates harmful, health-wise? No. Can they cause a little drama on your scalp, and dry out your hair? Absolutely. Should you banish them from your regimen? That’s up to you. I make a regular habit of shampooing my hair with non-SLS shampoos and low-sudsing co-washes because I use a lot of styling and defining products that can build up over time, and make conditioning less effective if not properly removed. And every 4-6 weeks, I use an SLS containing shampoo to clarify my hair and scalp.

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Non-SLS Gentle Shampoos

• tgin Moisture Rich Sulfate Free Shampoo
• Ouidad Curl Co-Wash
• Alaffia African Black Soap
• DevaCurl Low Poo
• Shea Moisture Yucca and Baobab Thickening Shampoo

Clarifying Shampoos

• Lawrence Ray Concepts Complete Cleanse Shampoo
• Ouidad Superfruit Renewal Clarifying Cream Shampoo

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Christina Patrice is a blogger at ManeObjective.com.

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By Christina Patrice · Published May 5, 2014

As a product junkie and blogger, I read tons of ingredient labels. I’m also keen on marketing tactics that cosmetic companies use to hook ladies looking for the perfect tresses. From label fonts and coloring and pixie dust extracts (you know, the ones featured prominently on the front label, but that are actually listed as 28th of 32 ingredients”> to peddling promises that can’t be delivered, thousands of dollars are spent to connect their products with your wallet. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not against marketing products at all. I’m just not a huge fan of watching people be misled, especially when it comes to oils and serums for the hair.

In many drugstores, beauty supply and salon stores, there are serums everywhere that are labeled as oils, and many ladies using them as though they are pure oils. Often times, they’re infinitely more expensive than the raw ingredients they tout on the label. To help you safeguard your wallet and get the most out of what you put in your hair, let’s dive head first into a quick savvy shopper lesson on oils vs. serums.

Oils Vs. Serums

By Christina Patrice · Published April 28, 2014

Method 1

Recommended for early transitioners or naturals looking for 100% texture blending

This method involves braiding the satin strip into your hair from the root. For new transitioners, this look creates texture and uniformity from the root to the end–with the added benefit of not having super tapered, crinkly-looking thin ends that most regular braidouts result in. For naturals, this method also creates that same texture and uniformity all the way down. It is perfect for any texture of hair, seriously! Satin strip braid-outs on looser hair textures will result in increased definition, and tighter, coily or kinky textures will see more elongated hair.

Watch the video tutorial:

Method 2

Recommended for long-term transitioners and naturals

By Christina Patrice · Published April 16, 2014

If you search the hashtag #naturalhair on Instagram, you’re guaranteed to come across some jaw-droppingly gorgeous kinky, curly, and coily manes. Not only do their curly fros, twist-outs, and updos defy gravity, many social media naturalistas are rocking eye-catching hues on their manes, from golden blonde ombre to sizzling red and cool blue. If you’re anything like me, you look wistfully at these photos and begin contemplating what products you can hold off on buying in order to save up for a professional dye job. But then you chicken out, not only unsure of committing to a color, but somewhat fearful of ruining the natural hair you worked so hard to grow.

Check out these 6 much safer alternatives to add a little dimension to your hair. Fair warning: they won’t give you drastic color lift/change, but it should be enough to satisfy your curiosity. Plus, they are all fairly affordable and relatively easy to do at home.

photo I_AM_PHOENIX

next page: Henna 

Body Art Quality Henna

BAQ Henna is a personal favorite of mine. Not only do I use it monthly to help keep my scalp psoriasis at bay, I also love the rich reddish tint that the ground up leaf deposits on my hair. Although not entirely invisible in indoor lighting, outdoors my henna color is gorgeous! Not only will henna give you a little reddish color boost, it also conditions the hair, thickens it, helps promote shine, and make it stronger.

My personal favorite Body Art Quality brand is Jamila because the sift is super fine, making it easy to apply and rinse out. Before discovering Jamila, I tried Light Mountain brand henna, and each month was a fiasco in terms of trying to get the grit and twigs out of my curly mane. Also do note that pure henna that won’t harm your hair or skin only comes in one color: red. Anything else (black henna, brown, etc.”> may contain additives and chemicals that could cause irritation, so beware. If the box does not say 100% pure henna/lawsonia inermis, put it down and slowly and back away.

To see how I mix my henna, click here.

next page: Indigo

Indigo

In a similar vein to henna, indigo comes from ground plant leaves. When mixed with liquid (water”> and exposed to air it turns blue. Don’t worry though, indigo actually turns the hair deep black, and has been used to do so for thousands of years. Indigo requires a firm commitment; once you’ve use it you can’t go back for some time until it wears off.

If your hair is a lighter color than brown, it is advised that you henna hair first, then apply indigo.

For more on indigo, check out Shelli of Hairscapades and her 2-step henna/indigo process.

next page: SheaMoisture Ammonia-Free Hair Color

Shea Moisture Moisture-Rich Ammonia-Free Hair Color System

Shea Moisture is everywhere these days! When they decided to launch a hair color system, the entire natural hair community was thrilled. Finally, a hair coloring solution that catered to the concerns of kinks, curls, and coils!

Since many textured beauties already have challenges retaining moisture and porosity issues, the fact that this color system is ammonia-free is a huge deal.

Ammonia is the ingredient in most hair dyes that lifts your cuticle so that the peroxide can penetrate and zap your natural pigment. The ammonia-peroxide duo can leave hair dry, straw-like, brittle, and of course, with irreversible cuticle damage (leading to more porosity and dryness issues”>.

next page: Ion Color Brilliance

Ion Color Brilliance Semi-Permanent

If you used to get your hair professionally done back in the day, you might remember having your stylist do a super conditioning and tinting treatment on your hair, known as a cellophane. In high school I lived for the cellophane color because it was the only color my parents would allow me to have –because it was non-damaging, not permanent, and not “too grown” (haha”>.

There are tons of brands out there, such as Jazzing by Clairol that serve the same function– but the Ion Color Brilliance line is my personal favorite pick. Because I henna my hair regularly, I have no particular need for colored cellophane. But what I do enjoy is that brilliant shine that a dose of this product in clear gives. Ion Color Brilliance is ammonia and peroxide free, making it ideal for non-damaging coloring.

next page: Manic Panic Cream Color

Manic Panic Amplified Cream Color

If you’re into hot hues and bright colors without the commitment, Manic Panic is definitely worth considering. This semi permanent hair color comes in shades ranging from Cotton Candy (hot pink”> to After Midnite (deep navy blue”>. Lighter color hair will always yield the best results, but you can always take some inspiration from the wonderful Evelyn From the Internets on how to get bright colors on dark hair.

next page: DIY Hair Lightener

DIY Hair Lightener

Of course, no article about hair color is complete without a DIY recipe. Check out this homemade mix to gradually lighten your hair.

Ingredients: 

• 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
• 2-3 cups of strong chamomile tea

Directions

• Mix one cup of freshly squeezed lemon juice with three cups of strong chamomile tea.
• Soak your hair with this mixture.

• Air dry on the sun then rinse out and condition well.
• Repeat this 2-3 times per week for best results.

By Christina Patrice · Published April 4, 2014

Admittedly, us natural gals can be product snobs from time to time (or all the time”>. We turn our noses up at products because on the surface, it looks like they’re irrelevant to our natural hair needs — or because we want to distance ourselves from anything remotely related to perms, flat irons, and weaves.

I’m here to say: Keep an open mind. Sometimes, the products you end up loving the most don’t say natural, curly, kinky, coily, or wavy on the label. Case and point: Long Locks Hair Care. I was sent a wonderful haul of products from Long Locks to review: including Peppermint Candy Shampoo and Conditioner, Mystique Frizz Control Cream, and… a GLAM IRON! What’s a Glam Iron, you ask? Only the cutest flat iron…ever. In life. Although I only straighten my hair 3 or 4 times a year, it’s nice to know that next time I crave sleek tresses, I’ll have the chicest iron on the block. Before I get too carried away about the glam iron, let me get to the actual review.

Peppermint Candy Shampoo

Description

Invigorating, clarifying shampoo with peppermint and tea tree oils, thoroughly cleanses while healing and invigorating the scalp. Helps strengthen hair while improving body and shine. Safe for colored and chemically-treated hair.

Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide MEA, Peppermint Oil, Glycol Stearate, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Polyquaternium-59, Wheat Amino Acids, Polyquaternium-10, Tea Tree Oil, Disodium EDTA, Menthol, Citric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Yellow 5/CL 19140 Blue 1, Cl 42090 Limonene, Linalool

Top Ingredients 411

• Sodium Laureth Sulfate: Surfactant (cleansing agent”> derived from ethoxylated lauryl alcohol.
• Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate: Surfactant and foaming agent derived from the ammonium salt of lauryl sulfate.

• Cocamidopropyl Betaine: Coconut oil-derived detergent, anti-static, and hair conditioning agent.
• Cocamide MEA: Foam boosting and viscosity increasing compound synthesized from coconut oils and ethanolamine.

• Peppermint Oil: Essential oil used for stimulating and invigorating the scalp and follicles. 

Performance

Right out of the gate, I must say that I absolutely love the fragrance. The essence of peppermint candy is captured to a tee. The shampoo itself is a nice silky green. One major red flag for most naturals will be the SLS and ALS present in the ingredients. I fully expected for the shampoo to dry out my hair, but it didn’t. While my hair was a little more stripped than most shampoos make it feel, I kept in mind that this shampoo’s purpose was to clarify. I loved the cool tingly feeling on my scalp, and how the shampoo had just enough slip to help me continue detangling my hair. It didn’t have tons of miraculous slip, but it was definitely present and there was enough. Overall, I really liked the shampoo. The smell alone reminded me of the peppermints I got as a kid from my Grandma’s purse.

Peppermint Candy Conditioner

Description

Peppermint Oil and other vital botanicals & nutrients leave hair moisturized, shiny, and full of body after just one use. Special vitamins and proteins protect sensitive scalps. Safe for colored, straightened, and chemically-treated hair.

Ingredient List

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Lactamide MEA, Peppermint Oil, Panthenol, Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Burdock Root Extract, Ivy Extract, Fenugreek Extract, Methylchloroisothiazolinon, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

Top Ingredients 411

• Cetearyl & Cetyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohols and emollient conditioners known for giving products a creamy, thick texture and feel.
• Behentrimonium Methosulfate: Mild detangling ingredient made from the rapeseed (canola”>. Known for great detangling without leaving product buildup on hair.
• Ceteareth-20: Emulsifier derived from fatty alcohols, used primarily to mix oil/water/alcohols, and help evenly disperse ingredients in a product

• Lactamide MEA: A natural moisturizer and humectant, derived from lactic acid. It used as an anti-static and conditioning agent.
• Peppermint Oil: Essential oil used for stimulating and invigorating the scalp and follicles. 

Performance

In the same vein as the shampoo, the fragrance of the conditioner did not disappoint. The product itself is white (thank God, I might have lost it over green conditioner”>, and has an incredibly luxurious rich and creamy feel to it. It was the perfect acompaniment to the shampoo — whatever oils I had lost in the clarifying process were definitely restored with this conditioner. Much like the shampoo, the condtioner didn’t have tons of slip — but it had enough to help keep my hair detangled. It was a good conditioner though, and I simply love the ingredients. One interesting thing I did notice about the conditioner is that it gave “weight” to my hair, similar to the effect of henna. Although it was temporary and went down the drain at the next wash, I did enjoy the extra manageability. I love weighty hair–for me it helps keep flyaways at bay and manage shrinkage (as much as it can be managed, lol”>. If you feel like your hair could stand to benefit from some extra oomph, definitely check this conditioner out.

Mystique Frizz Control Cream

Description

This fast-drying texture cream tames frizzy and unruly hair resulting in a soft and pliable mane.

Ingredient List

Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Di-PPG-2-Myreth-10-Adipate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polyquaternium-59, Butylene Glycol, Amodimethicone, Fragrance/Parfum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Octoxynol-40, Isolaureth-6, Sodium Benzoate, Methylisothiazolinone, Benzyl Benzoate, Limonene, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl Methypropional, Alpha Iso-Methyl Ionone

Top Ingredients 411

• Cetearyl & Cetyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohols and emollient conditioners known for giving products a creamy, thick texture and feel.
• Glycerin: Generally vegetable-based humectant that absorbs and retains moisture from the air.
• Di-PPG-2-Myreth-10 Adipate: Skin and hair conditioning agent, emollient, and surfactant.
• Hydrogenated Castor Oil: Castor wax created to improve the shelf-life of castor oil.
• Behentrimonium Methosulfate: Mild detangling ingredient made from the rapeseed (canola”>. Known for great detangling without leaving product buildup on hair.

Performance

Oh, Frizz Control Cream, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways. You’re lightweight and moisturizing, and double as a leave-in conditioner. The difference with you in my hair is truly night and day. I swoon over your ingredients and springtime fresh fragrance, they complement your creamy texture well. All poetic waxing aside,  I truly do love this stuff and for me it is the absolute GEM of the Long Locks line. All of the aforementioned is true– the ingredients are awesome, the fragrance is fresh and mild, and it is lightweight and moisturizing. But the home run? I’ll just let the picture on the left do the talking.

In this particular wash and go, this was day one as soon as my hair was 100% dry. For the most part my hair behaves itself, but there are random sections that will not bend to my will no matter what I do. I typically let those rebels be themselves, and go on about my business. But this particular day, I wanted to put the Frizz Control Cream to the test. I was using the Frizz Control Cream as my leave-in, Camille Rose Naturals Almond Jai Twisting Butter for moisture, and TIGI Catwalk Curlesque Curls Rock Amplifier for my styler. In the section photo’d, I intentionally skipped the Frizz Control Cream so I’d have a point of comparison. The difference is literally night and day. This isn’t a fluke either– another random section that rebels against me is the front/center of my hair. It is thick, has ridiculous shrinkage, and is a tight wavy pattern. And what did the Frizz Control Cream do? This (see photo”>.

It whipped the front into shape like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Can we say, must have for 2014? Absolutely. I just wish it came in a bigger tube.

Glam Iron

As if I didn’t gush about the Glam Iron enough, let me go ahead and provide a little more information. It’s absolutely fab. It’s pink, and covered in rhinestones. But what does that mean for use and functionality? Here are some quick specs:

• The Glam Iron heats quickly–within 20 seconds. Seriously.

• The jewels don’t melt off, thanks to being applied with heat-proof glue.

• The plate is 1 inch wide–perfect for a variety of lengths and types of hair.

•  The plate is ceramic with Ion technology.

• It has an LCD display that flashes “OFF” when plugged in but not on, and has an automatic shutoff if left idle for prolonged periods of time.

• The Glam Iron has a programmable time feature as well, for up to 120 minutes.

• The temperature range is from 50 to 232 degrees Celsius, or 122 to 450 degrees Farenheit.

The iron is lighweight and durable, and quite honestly I can’t wait to use it. I’m trying to take my no-heat stretch until May for my birthday, which will be a full 5 months without straightening. But when I do, you better believe I’m using my Glam Iron! Check my blog for the latest updates on this effort.

MORE: TGIN Moist Collection Review

By Christina Patrice · Published April 2, 2014

PHOTO SOURCE: LIANNE LA HAVAS

Back when I was transitioning, you couldn’t tell me nothin’ about my Big All-Day Bun. It was my go-to transitioning style because it allowed me to have a big, full-looking bun despite my hair being thin and heat damaged.

All I needed to pull of the style was a regular banana clip, bobby pins, a soft bristle brush, water, and a little styling product for my edges–until about month 7.

Once I made it past 6 months of transitioning, banana clips were no longer my friend. I couldn’t get them to stay in my hair without my hair being soaking wet (in its most condensed state”>–and even as my hair dried throughout the day, I found many a banana clip popping out of my head.

I often tried to do my bunning the way many popular naturals do their high puffs and buns–with a double-looped elastic headband. It rarely worked, and most times I found myself with either of the two dilemmas: the bands were entirely too tight on my head (headaches, edge trauma, and the fact that you have to practically choke yourself or squeeze your forehead to death to get the double loop action”>, or they’d just sliiiide right back and make what was supposed to be a fab bun look like a baby knot.

After giving up on  the updo for a while (besides the messy quick fix gym bun”>, I’m ready to get back in the big bun saddle. Armed with similar tools from my transitioning days and a remixed approach, I’m ready to rock the top knot again.

This bun is perfect for type 3 naturals with curls, coils, and kinks that don’t always come together well in a traditional bun. I generally don’t do hair-typing related posts, but in my experience, type 3 hair doesn’t always have the best luck with bunning. Type 3 hair is easily compacted, which can make for small buns that aren’t particularly flattering. To be honest, I’ve got a big head and I need a big bun to match. Beyond that, the double-loop method doesn’t always work because type 3 hair may not have the same staying power of type 4 hair.

The Benefits

This big messy bun is super edges-friendly, and very low tension (no headaches”> while looking messy and chic. It’s versatile enough to go from work, to working out, to a hot date. To change up the look, place the bun slightly off center like Lianne La Havas (pictured”>.

What You’ll Need

• Water (in a spray bottle”>

• Butter, oil or moisturizer of choice (I went with Kyra’s Shea Medleys Original Butter Cream“>

• Large banana clip

• Scrunchie (remember–with no metal clasp!”>

• Bobby pins

• Soft bristle brush

Armed with your tools and ready to go? Great! Check out the tutorial below and get ready to rock it!

Watch the Video

WRITTEN BY THEMANEOBJECTIVE

By Christina Patrice · Published March 20, 2014

Not to brag, but I’ve been having some ridiculously easy wash days. And while I’m sure my methods don’t exactly work for everyone, there are some key points that will help you have a drama-free wash day as well.

When followed, these points help alleviate some of the stress and tension around wash days.

1. Always pre-poo

Pre-pooing not only helps prevent the hair from being stripped completely of natural oils, but it also softens and conditions the hair — making it easier to detangle and prevent breakage. How you pre-poo is totally up to you!

WATCH: DIY Olive Oil Pre-Poo

2. Sulfates on occasion

 Sulfates can be harsh and drying on the hair, making it feel wiry and brittle. I’ve also discovered that some shampoo formulas can even make the hair more tangled than what it was.

3. Wash in sections

By Christina Patrice · Published March 19, 2014

Step 1

When trying to decide the best course of action for detangling your hair, it is always best to start with an understanding of how your hair behaves.

Ask yourself, is your hair:

• curly, or tightly coiled?
• transitioning or completely natural?

• incredibly tangle prone when loose in water?

• weak, brittle, or easily broken?

Those four points will help you understand not only what tools will likely work best for your hair, but also what products and methods.

Necessary Tools

To detangle naturally coily or curly hair, there are a number of popular tools out there.

Determining which one is best for you is a matter of how you answered the questions above, and how much money you want to spend. Some of the best tools for detangling curly and coily hair are:

• fingers free!

• Denman Brush $10.30

• seamless wide tooth or shower comb $2.49

• Babyliss Scalp Massage Brush $2

• Q-Redew $70

As you can see, the tools listed range from free to $70. I always recommend starting with the most affordable solution, and working your way up. My current mainstays for detangling are my fingers, and the Babyliss brush (only $1.99 at Sally Beauty Supply”>. I occasionally use my Q-Redew, but I try to reserve it more for steaming and refreshing my hair now. If you would like to give the Denman or a comb a try, go for it! But definitely pay attention to how your hair responds. Don’t continue to use a tool after you can clearly see it’s snatching your hair out.

Products

Deciding what product to detangle with often times leaves us the most confused.

Conditioner? Oil? A DIY Cocktail? A specific detangling product? This is another one of those categories that is completely reflective of your hair and how much you’re willing to spend.

If your hair benefits from being slathered in product, you’re likely to opt for a conditioner. If you tend to be a minimalist, oil will likely be your go-to.

As far as money is concerned, inexpensive oils, conditioners, and DIY cocktails (conditioner + oil + water”> fall on the more cost-effective end of the spectrum. On the more expensive end are products that work really well, but are not as cost-efficient.

Check out these popular product suggestions:

Conditioners

• Aussie Moist

• Herbal Essences Hello Hydration

• Suave Almond and Shea Butter Conditioner

• Tresemme Naturals or Split Remedy Conditioner

Oils

• Coconut Oil

• Sweet Almond Oil

• Apricot Seed Oil

• Olive Oil

• Grapeseed Oil

Detangling Products

•  Kinky Curly Knot Today $12

• Soultanicals Knot Sauce/Mango Dip Detangling Slip $13

• Qhemet Biologics Cocoa Tree Detangling Ghee $14

•  Infusium 23 Repair & Renew Leave-In Treatment $8

• Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Extra Moisture Detangler $12

By Christina Patrice · Published March 17, 2014

A quick search on google for “vitamins for hair growth” yields countless results and brands, all promising to help usher in strong, vibrant, and growing hair. Amid proprietary blends and secret formulas, there is one ingredient at the core of every hair boosting vitamin: biotin. 

But does Biotin have what it takes to give you the hair length you want? Instead of searching endlessly through Google to find the answer, we went to Erica Douglas, also known around here as Sister Scientist. 

“Biotin contains high levels of Vitamin B. Vitamin B helps to metabolize carbohydrates, fats and amino acids from our diet into energy, which supports cellular metabolism.  This process assists with healthy cell formation and growth, leading to healthy hair, skin and nails when the proper nutrients are in the body.  Vitamin B deficiencies have been linked to hair loss, so it’s important that you consume enough of this vitamin in your diet,” says Douglas.

But does biotin have to be in your diet to work? Or can it be applied topically? Douglas says applying it topically will only give the illusion of thickness.

“I believe that biotin is most effective for the purposes of strengthening hair when used internally.  Follicles of the hair are linked to blood vessels that absorb nutrients from the body.  It’s these nutrients that help to determine the hair’s thickness and strength during the Anagen phase of hair development.  Although topical treatments containing biotin can bind the biotin molecule to the hair giving the illusion of more thickness, at the core of it all, you also want the hair to absorb biotin while it is still connected to the blood vessels in the follicle to provide actual improvement of strength and overall hair health,” says Douglas.

“You will need fewer products that promise the “illusion” of strength and thickness if you maintain a proper diet that contributes to physical improvements from inside the hair.” For more information on biotin and castor oil, head over here. 

Although most vitamin blends contain 500mcg or more of biotin (and some supplements alone go upwards of 1000 or 5000mcg”>, the daily recommended dose of biotin is about 2.5mg (2500mcg”> for adults. You don’t necessarily need to take a special supplement to get the beauty benefits of this vitamin though — there are plenty of food sources such as wheat germ, whole wheat bread, swiss chard, salmon, chicken, eggs, and dairy that contain biotin. Deficiencies in biotin (although somewhat rare”> can lead to brittle nails and hair loss.

With all the information out there, how can you be certain that a hair growth vitamin or biotin supplement is for you? Let’s take a look at some of the more definitive pros and cons:

Pros

• Affordable and widely available

• Helps the body process energy and and transport carbon dioxide from cells

• Can help strengthen nail cuticles and hair, warding off thinning and breakage of both

• Supports skin health, and can help ward off psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis, and other rashes

• Believed to aid in weight loss- when paired with chromium the vitamin supports a quicker breakdown of fats and carbohydrates, leading to a higher resting metabolic rate

• Improves blood sugar regulation

Cons

• Can lead to skin breakouts, acne, and rashes (if overdosed”>

• Raw eggs interfere with the absorption of biotin

• Interacts with some drugs, specifically those for cholesterol and antibiotics

Takeaways

By and large, it appears the benefits outweigh the potential consequences (of course, unless you are taking a specific drug known to adversely interact”> of taking biotin. If you are concerned with acne outbreaks and rashes, here are a few tips on how to help keep your skin clear:

• Start out at low doses. Anywhere under 500mcg is ideal. If your body tolerates it well, you can move up as far as you feel comfortable doing.

• Try taking biotin alone at first, instead of as a part of a multivitamin. This can be difficult to do, but it will help you better assess how your body tolerates biotin. If you feel all is well after a few weeks, it should be safe to incorporate biotin into a multivitamin regimen.

• Be sure to get adequate levels of vitamins A, C, E, and Zinc. All these vitamins and minerals assist in the production of healthy skin cells, collagen, and acne treatment.

• Drink Apple Cider Vinegar. This is a personal anecdotal piece of advice from me — I drink a 1-2 tablespoons of diluted ACV every night before bed. It has helped keep breakouts at bay, and even got rid of some pesky bumps I had along my jawline before I began taking the vitamin.

By Christina Patrice · Published March 14, 2014

This #WashDay meme spread like wildfire in the natural hair community, and while utterly hilarious (ranch dressing and a Bible though?”>, this fun-poking photo does hold a grain of truth.

I’ve come to realize that many naturals and transitioners simply do entirely too much on wash day.

As hilarious as this meme is (I get the giggles all over again just looking at each item individually”> it’d be nice if wash day wasn’t a joke.

Here are three key ways to make wash day a little more manageable, and a little less, well, see above.

1. Product Overload

Pre-poo with this. Detangle with a mix of this, this, that, and that, with a little bit of that over there plus water in a spray bottle. Cowash with this product. Condition with another product. Deep condition with a homemade concoction that looks like a menu item from Robek’s, or a blend of your favorite conditioner and water.

Solution: Stop. Using. Products. That. Don’t. Work.

If you have to mix 18 things together to make a detangler, then what you’re doing isn’t working too well. If you constantly have to add oils to your conditioners to make them more moisturizing then well….you might need a new conditioner.

Wash day gets easier when you actually use products that work well at what they’re supposed to do, or when you discover it has a better alternative use. I cut the fuss between detangling and co-washing because I discovered that Aussie Moist makes a phenomenal in-shower detangler, and I can also use it to co-wash.

I only stick to conditioners and deep conditioners that do their job in 10 minutes or less. If it takes any longer, then the formula isn’t working for my hair. Sure, an extra 10 or 20 minutes for more softening is fine. But if after 10 minutes I don’t feel or see any discernible difference in my hair, it’s time for me to move on to greener pastures.

2. The Detangling Nightmare

As a transitioner and a natural, I can recall needing quite a few things to detangle my hair. Either a complex concoction or conditioner, water, an onslaught of tools, and a Law & Order: SVU marathon. I bought into the blog hype everywhere that detangling had to be some nightmarish event of epic proportions that couldn’t be done in under two hours. I detangled slowly with my fingers, in some of the smallest sections imaginable. At some points, I even went practically strand-by-strand. I ended up with pruny fingers, cramped hands, towels full of shed hair and conditioner muck, and a sense of resolve that had been beaten into submission. And I did this every week. Sometimes twice.

Solution: Try it once or twice, then move on.

Learning which detangling method works for you is a classic case of throwing a bunch of stuff at the wall and seeing what sticks. There are tons of different methods – dry detangling, damp detangling, soaking wet hair detangling, detangling with oil, detangling with conditioner, detangling with a detangler, with your fingers, with a Denman, with a wide tooth comb, with a Tangle Teezer, with a Q-Redew…the possibilities and combinations are seemingly infinite.

If your current method has you taking forever and a day, and you’re still losing insane amounts of hair due to breakage, or you always have a bajillion knots that don’t want to come undone, it’s time to lay that method to rest and move on.

I’m a huge proponent of slathering the hair with conditioner, and detangling in the shower darting my hair under the shower head a few times for extra slippage. With this method, I’m able to make it through my head in 15 minutes or less. I would have never found this out, if it wasn’t for drama point #1 and making a conscious decision to try different methods until I had one that worked. And you better believe that if this one stops working, I’m on to the next!

ILLUSTRATION: TALLNCURLY FOR NATURALLYCURLY

3. The Time/Patience Matrix

For me, my week of wash-and-go’s typically runs something like this (left”>.

Solution: Find the time for your hair (double entendre”>.

The first part of finding the time for your hair relates to literally finding the time for your hair. There is nothing worse than putting off wash day farrrr beyond what you know to be best for your tresses. Extra tangles and matting, even more buildup than you thought possible, and sometimes the dreaded itchies and flakes. It is vital to the health of your hair to find time for it. It is important that the time you set aside for your hair not be rushed, when you’re dead tired, or irritated. Any three of those individually or in combination spell disaster, breakage, and utter frustration with your hair. Take it from me: although you don’t want wash day to take forever, don’t give yourself 30 minutes and a prayer. You’ll always end up losing more hair than necessary.

And although wash day should never literally be an entire day in my opinion (like this meme suggests,haha!”>, you have to carve out some time to tend to your hair on a regular basis. This brings me to the second part of finding time for your hair — which is finding the most optimal time table for wash day. Some transitioners and naturals go two or three weeks, and sometimes a month between washes. For me, I know that one week (seven days”> is my cap. If I don’t wash and condition by day seven, I’m in for an uphill battle. I learned this by, you guessed it, trial and error. A good starting place is two weeks. If you try washing your hair every two weeks, but realize you don’t have as much buildup, dryness, or tangling, then you are one of the lucky ladies that can push it out a week or two more. If two weeks is giving you all sorts of grief, amp it up to weekly. If your tresses still can’t handle a week, move it up to twice a week.

 How else do you avoid the wash day drama? Leave us a comment below, and be sure to visit my blog-ManeObjective.com.

By Christina Patrice · Published March 10, 2014

• Paying around $70 (or more!”> every two weeks to have a professional hairdresser wash, condition, and straighten your hair.
• Visiting said professional regularly, and despite being in their care and following their instructions, never seeing any hair growth past your shoulders.
• Receiving conflicting or counterintuitive information about how to best care for your hair in their absence.
• Suffering from dryness, breakage, and stalled growth.
• Thinking that your hair could never be long and thick.

When I first visited their website, I wasn’t sure if this was a brand I should review because all of the women have straight hair. Gorgeous hair, but straight. But once I began seeing all the rave reviews on social media (seriously, just search the hashtag #rapunzelthefutureofhair on Instagram”> and looking at pictures of Rasheda’s naturally curly mane, I was convinced that I needed Rapunzel in my life. I was all the way thrilled when I received the Hair Lotion and Hair Silk to test drive and review, along with a soooo right-on-time tape measure for my hair. Without further delay, let’s jump in to this review!

Hair Lotion

Product Claims

Rapunzel’s Hair Lotion is a deep moisturizing cream made with Shea Butter and other natural oils to help stop breakage, repair split ends, adding manageability and shine with every application.

When used daily as directed, Rapunzel’s Hair Lotion helps promote long healthy hair growth by protecting the hair from heat damage through hydration and moisturization. Perfect for natural, relaxed, and transitioning hair.

Ingredient List

Water, Persea Gratissima (Avocado”> Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut”> Oil, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Bromide, Sorbitol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Steareth-2, Santalum Album (Sandalwood”> Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Hordeum Distichon (Barley”> Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Mangifera Indica (Mango”> Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter”>, Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia Nut”> Seed Oil, Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E”>, Allatonin, Sodium PCA, Fragrance (Parfum”>, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl AlcoholFor natural, relaxed and transitioning hair

• Leaves hair soft, light and shiny

• Non-greasy formula

• Moisturizes dry hair without leaving a residue

Top Ingredients 411

• Avocado Oil: Moisturizing oil that is high in omega 6 and 9, which helps improve elasticity, strength, and shine in hair.
• Coconut Oil: Oil high in saturated fats (which is why when cold, it is solid”>. One of the few known oils to penetrate the hair shaft and truly moisturize hair. Coconut oil helps to moisturize, seal, and prevent breakage.
• Stearyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohol that acts as a thickener, and emollient. It gives conditioner its velvety feel without making hair greasy. Also used to keep product ingredients from separating.
• Cetrimonium Bromide: An ammonium salt used in hair prevents static build-up that causes flyaway hair. It is also able to penetrate and condition the hair, and acts as an emulsifier and preservative.
• Sorbitol: Naturally occurring element in fruits and veggies, but can also be synthetically made from hydrolyzed corn starch. Much like glycerin, it adds slip to a product, as well as functions as a humectant and a thickener. It helps cosmetics from drying out in their containers.

Performance

One of the best things in the world for me is when a product actually does what it says it will do.

The Hair Lotion is incredibly creamy and moisturizing without weighing hair down. The consistency is rich and creamy, but not greasy. My hair is a huge fan of avocado oil, so the fact that it was the 2nd ingredient was a definite plus. In fact, the second I put it on my hair, it just soaks right in and leaves it feeling super soft, fluffy, and moisturized.

The Hair Lotion played an epic role in my satin strip braidout, and in my wash and go’s. In fact, I recently OD’d on my favorite curl definer (TIGI Catwalk Curlesque Curls Rock Amplifier”> during a routine wash and go, and it left my hair feeling super crunchy. I applied Hair Lotion on top of it, to soften it up and it worked like a charm! My curls felt amazing afterwards, and had so much body and bounce!

The one thing I’m not wild about is the fragrance. It has a grapefruity, passionfruit, floral-esque fragrance that I found to be a little to strong for my liking — but definitely not a deal breaker. The smell doesn’t linger too long in the hair, and it didn’t trigger any allergies.

Overall product rating: 4.5 Stars! I love the Hair Lotion, but had to deduct slightly for scent. Not a deal breaker, but I’d definitely prefer something a little milder.

Hair Silk

Product Claims

Rapunzel’s Hair Silk smooths ends, conditions and, with daily application, you will notice less breakage and damage caused by chemicals and heated styling.

With combined usage of the Hair Silk and Rapunzel Protein Conditioner, hair will be more manageable, with a “silk-like” luster all the way from root to tip.

• Non-greasy formula

• Soft, silky, smooth hair and extra shine

Ingredient List

Olive Oil, Castor Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Safflower Oil, Wheat Germ Oil, Fragrance

Top Ingredients 411

• Olive Oil: Olive Oil is rich in high levels of mono-unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E. Vitamin E is an antioxidant, which is good for hair growth. Both mono-unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E are good for moisturizing, protecting and nourishing hair. Olive oil makes hair grow stronger and its emollient properties prevent hair loss.
• Castor Oil: Emollient and humectant oil, touted as a treatment for thinning hair, hair loss, dry, and itchy scalp. Has anti-fungal and antibacterial properties.
• Sweet Almond Oil: Nourishes hair, smoothes hair cuticles to control shedding, promotes hair growth and thickness, prevents hair loss, and boosts shine.
• Safflower Oil: Protects hair, nourishes hair follicles, moisturizes, and stimulates blood circulation to promote hair growth and thickness. And it is extremely beneficial for natural as well as dry chemically treated hair.
• Wheat Germ Oil: Ceramide rich oil that helps replenish moisture and strength within the cuticle, helping to ciment them. Great for sealing and correcting porosity issues.

Performance

Hair Silk is a godsend. When it comes to oils and butters, I don’t know how to act. I either end up using way too much (and staining my scarves and pillowcases”>, or not enough to make a difference.

Hair Silk literally saved me from myself. What I love about Hair Silk is that the blend is spot on, and works perfect for those in need of conditioning and softness without the hair being weighed down and feeling greasy. As I’ve mentioned in other blog posts, I suffer from dry end syndrome. This is new to me, because as a transitioner, my ends were heat damaged and straight, which oddly enough, allowed them to retain moisture better.

Once I got chopped, I had to work a little harder to maintain my ends. Heck, I still have to work a little harder. Applying Hair Silk has been nothing short of a miracle. I use it to seal my ends every time I style, and around every other night as a part of my bedtime routine. My end roughness has not emerged since! In fact, my ends are in better condition now than they were when I chopped–seriously. They are smooth, silky, and don’t feel rough in the slightest. The curl on my ends has even improved, and I am seeing less and less of those thin whispy breakage hairs that come from your ends when you detangle.  The fragrance of Hair Silk is mild, powdery, and slightly floral — definitely not as strong as the Hair Lotion. I’m not wild about this fragrance either — when it comes to oils I’m a huge fan of peppermint essential oil, rosemary, and other herbal-esque fragrances. Again, this is totally a preference of mine and in no way preventing me from using Hair Silk down to the last drop!

Overall product rating:  4.75 Stars. Seriously, the fragrance is the only thing keeping Hair Silk from getting 5 stars. Fragrance aside (which is not overbearing in the slightest…I just am not a huge fan”>, Hair Silk is a total win. Total!

See more of my product reviews for transitioners & Type 3s here on my blog, ManeObjective.com.

By Christina Patrice · Published March 7, 2014

Frizz: some naturals embrace it, others hate it.

For me personally, there is a right time and place for frizz — and it is not after I’ve worked super hard to achieve a defined style or a straightened look. Take a look at these 6 tips for fighting the battle against the frizz, and keep your curly hair in check longer!

Frizz Prevention Tips

By Christina Patrice · Published March 7, 2014

At some point in your natural hair or transitioning journey, you will likely do a blowout. Blowouts are incredibly versatile, and have the added benefit of allowing you to work with stretched and detangled hair for styles like braidouts, twistouts, bantu knots, updos, and even flat ironing.

But there is a right way and a wrong way to do a blowout. The correct products and methods will yield a full, voluminous, bouncy, soft, and moisturized blowout. The wrong stuff will leave you with a blowout that is stiff, greasy, crunchy, and brittle.

Caution!

Blow drying with heat causes a “flash drying” effect, which literally zaps the moisture from the surface of the hair as well as the water deep within the cortex.

As a result, the cuticles of the hair become dry, stiff, and brittle. When the hair is flexed or moved, the pressure of the movement causes the cuticles to crack.

In this weakened state, the hair is more susceptible to breakage during manipulation such as styling and combing.

1. Preventing Damage

There are a few ways to help ward off the damage and dryness that can result from a bad blowout.

Start with CLEAN hair

• tgin Moisture Rich Shampoo
• Koils By Nature Refreshing Tea Tree & Mint Cleanser
• L’Oreal Eversleek Intense Smoothing Shampoo

Always deep condition

• ApHogee Curlific Texture Treatment
• Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus Protein Deep Conditioning Treatment
• Palmer’s Coconut Formula Deep Conditioning Protein Pack

Never skip the heat protectants

• Tresemme Heat Tamer Spray
• ApHogee Keratin & Green Tea Restructurizer Spray
• Blow Dry Addict
• Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Moroccan Sleek Oil Treatment

Once you’ve done all you can to protect your hair in, then it is time to blow. I did not make any mention of oils and butters because I am a big believer that oils and butters on their own are more inclined to cook the hair than protect it. There is a lot of misinformation out there about smoke points of oils (like Grapeseed”> and the ability to protect the hair.

In truth, all a smoke point is, is literally, the temperature at which oil begins to smoke — signaling the breakdown of nutritive properties and rancidity. This has no correlation to heat protection, all it means is that the oil itself can withstand heat to a certain temperature before smoking and breaking down.

2. The Steps

After using your moisturizing heat protectants, it is time to blow dry! Here are some simple tips and steps to go by:

1.  Always allow hair to air dry or use a t-shirt/microfiber towel to dry at least 50% before blow drying. Blow drying hair that is dripping wet can lead to the formation of bubbles within the hair shaft that can lead to mid shaft splits and breakage.
2.  Blow dry in sections. Doing hair one section at a time makes hair more manageable and helps prevent tangling.
3.  Blow dry on no higher than medium heat, at high speed. The higher the heat, the more at risk you are for heat damage and drying the hair out completely.
4. Don’t dry the hair 100%. When your hair is about 75-80% dry, stop. Leaving some water in your hair will help better retain moisture and ward off dryness and breakage. After each section is nearly dry, hit it with the cool shot. This helps lock in your volume in place, and cut down on frizz.
5. After the cool shot, apply a small amount of moisturizer and a sealing oil and then prepare to loosely braid or use the banding method to keep hair from reverting. Selecting a light, penetrating moisturizer will help keep your hair nourished and moisturized in its blown out state. Moisturizers like Rapunzel’s Hair Lotion, Curls Curling Soufflé, and Camille Rose Naturals Fresh Curl are great for this purpose. Sealing with a light oil after applying moisturizer will help keep your hair soft and smooth. My favorite oils for this are jojoba oil, Rapunzel’s Hair Silk, and Darshana Ayurvedic Oil.
6. Shake and enjoy! Look at you, being all fabulous with your blowout!

Alternative Methods

If the thought of applying dry heat to your tresses makes you apprehensive, there are two other methods to achieve blow outs that pose a lot less of a threat to your hair than the standard blowout. The first option, is blow drying the hair on cool. Because there is virtually no heat used, it does not dry hair out the same way, or pose any threat whatsoever in terms of heat damage. You can still follow all the tips above, just dial the heat setting down. All the way down.

The second method involves a special little tool known as the Q-Redew. If you don’t have this handheld steamer yet, I highly suggest investing one. The Q-Redew gently infuses the hair with moisture, and helps improve elasticity and hydration. Beyond that, it has 8 prongs that can be used to detangle the hair and of course, produce a super soft and moisturized blowout!  Because dry heat is not involved, you don’t need to worry about heat protectants! Just use the Q-Redew to blow out, and apply a little leave-in if you like, and seal with a light oil!

PHOTO THE STYLE AND BEAUTY DOCTOR 

By Christina Patrice · Published March 5, 2014

As you all probably know by now, I love products. There is close to nothing that makes me happier than coming to a package of goodies, or spending excessive amounts of time in the aisles of Target and Sally’s. So imagine my thrill when I received a package of goodies from the Jessicurl Rich and Radiant Collection! The collection itself contains 7 products, and if I were to review them all, this article would go on forever.

So to give you all the best impression of the line, I’ve narrowed the review down to focus on 4 products: the Hair Cleansing Cream, Deep Conditioning Treatment, Spiralicious Styling Gel, and Awe Inspiraling Spray. All of the products are in the Island Fantasy scent, which I am head over heels about. It is light, tropical, sweet, slightly floral, and in no ways overpowering. But just in case that isn’t your cup of tea, there is a Citrus Lavender and an Unscented option. All of the Jessicurl offerings are Curly Girl-friendly, and Jessicurl.com offers tons of information and tips on how to best use the products.

There is something for everyone of every texture – from the kinkiest curls to the loosest waves.

Hair Cleansing Cream

Description

Mild and moisturizing shampoo alternative.

Ingredient List

Water (Aqua”>, Decyl Polyglucose, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Vegetable Glycerin, Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and”> Cetearyl Alcohol, Persea Gratissima (Avocado”> Oil, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, C 12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, PEG 150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, Diazolidinyl Urea (and”> Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

Top Ingredients 411

• Decyl Polyglucose: Mild, non-ionic synthetic surfactant derived from glucose and starch.

• Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate: Salt surfactant derived from the fatty acid of coconut oil.

• Cocamidopropyl Betaine: Coconut oil-derived detergent, anti-static, and hair conditioning agent.

• Vegetable Glycerin: Humectant  which draws moisture from the air into the hair.

• Behentrimonium Methosulfate: Mild detangling ingredient made from the rapeseed (canola”>. Known for great detangling without leaving product buildup on hair.

Performance

I had high hopes for the Hair Cleansing Cream, especially since a “to die for” shampoo alternative is hard to come by. I haven’t had much success in the cowash/poo-alternative department. Unfortunately, this product didn’t work for my hair the way I hoped it would. It has great slip, smells amazing, and my hair and scalp were clean – but that’s where it ended for me. My hair felt dry and a little rough, which was disappointing. I wanted so much to like this stuff! Upon further inspection of ingredients, I realized it contains sodium cocoyl isethionate – an ingredient I have discovered that my hair hates. I have used other shampoo alternatives that contain sodium cocoyl isethionate, and the results have been the same. I’m not a fan of the Hair Cleansing Cream, but that doesn’t mean it won’t work for you. After all, every head of hair is different!

Deep Conditioning Treatment

Description

Intense pampering for dry hair.

Ingredient List

Water (Aqua”>*,  Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and”> Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter”>,  Persea Gratissima (Avocado”> Oil, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa”> Seed Butter, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera”> Leaf Juice Powder,  Soy Lecithin, Diazolidinyl Urea (and”> Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

*These ingredients are part of a water infusion:  Equisetum Maximum Lam (Horsetail”>, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint”>, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary”>, Laurus Nobilis (Bay Leaf”>, Ocimum Basilicum (Basil”>, Arctium Lappa (Burdock Root”>, Althaea Officinalis (Marshmallow Root”>, Origanum Vulgare (Oregano”>, Cymbopogon Flexuosus (Lemongrass”>, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme”>, Salvia Officinalis (Sage”> and Urtica Dioica (Nettle”>

Top Ingredients 411

• Infused Water: The extracts, herbs and essential oils in the water infusion work together to strengthen the hair, stimulate the scalp, provide slip, and impart moisture and softness.

• Behentrimonium Methosulfate: Mild detangling ingredient made from the rapeseed (canola”>. Known for great detangling without leaving product buildup on hair.

• Cetearyl Alcohol: Combination of cetyl and stearyl fatty alcohols and emollient conditioners known for giving products a creamy, thick texture and feel.

• Shea Butter: Emollient fat from the nut of the east or west African shea nut tree. Used to moisturize and soften hair.

• Avocado Oil: Moisturizing oil extract rich in omegas that is able to nourish and strengthen hair.

  

Performance

Love, love, love! One thing that I find to be particularly awesome about the Jessicurl brand is that rather than provide superfluous product claims and descriptions on their bottles, they allow customer feedback to speak for the products. I read so many good things about the Deep Conditioning Treatment – and they were all TRUE! I simply adore this stuff — it is thick without being unbearable (it has a hearty lotion consistency”>, spreads easily through the hair, smells delightful, and easily helps detangle the hair. It is also super versatile- I’ve used it as a pre-poo, leave-in, and deep conditioner. As a pre-poo and deep conditioner, it leaves hair super soft, shiny, and moisturized. Not to mention, it cures my rough end woes! The ends of my hair tend to be more porous and dry than the rest of my hair, and Deep Conditioning Treatment corrects that like a dream! As a leave-in, it is a Godsend for thirsty hair, and helps encourage curl definition and clumping. All in all, this is definitely going on my Must Haves for 2014 list!

Spiralicious Styling Gel

Description

Provides all day hold and frizz control for all hair types.

Ingredient List

Water (Aqua”>, Polyquaternium-69, Polyquaternium-11, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba”> Seed Oil, Panthenol, C 12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Fragrance, Diazolidinyl Urea (and”> Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate.

Top Ingredients 411

• Polyquaternium-69 and 11: quaternary ammonium compounds known for film-forming/anti-frizz, conditioning, shine-imparting, cuticle flattening, and improving elasticity and combability of hair.

• Hydroxyethylcellulose: Naturally derived polymer used for thickening.

• Jojoba Seed Oil: Light moisturizing and sealing oil, known for being closest in composition to sebum naturally created by our scalps.

• Panthenol: Form of vitamin B known to moisturize and soften hair. Is also able to penetrate the cortex of the hair shaft, but cannot repair or thicken hair.

• C 12-15 Alkyl Benzoate: Surfactant-free emulsifier and stabilization polymer.

  

Performance

Yes to Spiralicious! Right now, I am really into cream-based definers as opposed to gels. And although Spiralicious is labeled as a gel, it definitely does not look or feel like one. As far as consistency is concerned, it is slightly more watery  than my holy grail TIGI Catwalk Curlesque Curls Rock Amplifier. But unlike Curls Rock Amplifier, Spiralicious is free of cones and other CG-unfriendly ingredients. It spreads super easily through the hair, and has tons of slip which makes it ideal for raking to define curls. Not only has Spiralicious given me great wash and go curls, it gave me the most epic braidout EVER! It was soft, fluffy, bouncy, and still had hold, but was nowhere near crunchy to the touch. I was even able to rock a super shiny twistout thanks to Spiralicious and Awe Inspiraling Spray. Talk about a total win, and super versatile product!

Awe Inspiraling Spray

Description

Midday Curl Refresher

Ingredient List

Water (Aqua”>, Vegetable Glycerin, Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salt”>, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera”> Leaf Juice Powder, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba”> Seed Oil, Diazolidinyl Urea (and”> Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

Top Ingredients 411

• Vegetable Glycerin: Humectant  which draws moisture from the air into the hair.

• Magnesium Sulfate: Epsom salt – known to be a natural hair volumizer

• Aloe Vera Leaf Juice Powder: Acts as a natural conditioning agent that restores the hair’s sheen, luster, and shine. It not only makes the hair soft, but it also enhances strength and suppleness.

• Jojoba Seed Oil:  Light moisturizing and sealing oil, known for being closest in composition to sebum naturally created by our scalps.

Performance

Admittedly, I’ve never been one for refresher sprays. Most of it has to do with the fact that as a transitioner, refresher sprays spelled out sudden death for any texture blending style. But now that I am completely natural and totally into wash and go’s, refresher sprays are slowly creeping into my routine — and Awe Inspiraling is a keeper! It made my hair soft, moisturized, bouncy, shiny, and voluminous – without a tacky, icky, greasy, or product-y feeling that can accompany some refresher sprays. Plus, it has some pretty good detangling ability, which I didn’t expect! I was able to get a pretty sassy twistout using Awe Inspiraling to refresh and detangle my hair, and Spiralicious to set it. I definitely love this spray!

Final Thoughts

I really love the Jessicurl line of products. The packaging is colorful and fun, and the Island Fantasy fragrance is everything I could ask for in a scent.  Although I didn’t care for the Hair Cleansing Cream, I will definitely be stocking up on the Deep Conditioning Treatment ASAP! Don’t be surprised if you see me on Instagram ordering it by the gallon (seriously”>!

By Christina Patrice · Published February 21, 2014

PICTURED AQUAYLA

Currently, I am halfway through my first month in to my Manetabolism Hair Growth Challenge.

When Blogger turned entrepreneur Courtney Adeleye and her brand The Mane Choice put out the call for bloggers and social media influencers to participate in the Manetabolism hair growth challenge, I jumped at the chance.

For me personally, it was serendipitous — I had just big chopped the rest of my transitioning tresses with a DevaCut in December, and I was anxious to do a true grow out challenge for myself. There are tons of great reasons to hop on a hair growth challenge – whether it be The Mane Choice, Hairfinity, Castor Oil, Coconut Oil, or otherwise (I just don’t personally cosign on the inversion method”>. I’ve narrowed it down to the five most beneficial reasons to jump on the growth challenge bandwagon:

5 Reasons to Join A Growth Challenge