Search Results: Christina Patrice

The 5 B’s of Stretching Naturally Curly Hair

Summertime is coming and you know what that means — out hair! When the temperatures warm up, naturalistas live for a good blowout, braidout, twist-out, bantu knot-out, or even flat-ironed hair. And for many of us curlies–the bigger and smoother, the better.

At the heart of almost every good style is stretched hair. Check out these 5 methods and get ready for #goodhairseason!

1. Bunning

For me, bunning is a great way to stretch only the roots of the hair. By creating buns with old wash and go hair, my roots and the perimeter of my hair are stretched, while maintaining the bulk and volume of my hair through the ends. Bunning is the perfect precursor to a half up, half down or pulled back style. Buns always work best on dry hair. Wet, bunned hair is an invitation for eternal dampness and tangle city. Amp up your sleekness for the bun and the takedown  style by using a little Passion Fruit Curl Control Paste on your edges.

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2. Blow Drying

Many naturals aren’t a fan of blowdrying, because it can be, well, drying. But for the most elongated and stretched hair, blowdrying is the way to go. Just remember to deep condition your hair, and always use a leave-in and heat protectant to prevent the hair from drying out and causing heat damage. For deep conditioning, try Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask. For leave-in and heat protection try Blow Dry Addict, It’s a 10 Miracle Leave-In Plus Keratin, and Tresemme Heat Tamer Spray.

3. Banding

Banding is another popular way to go, because it only requires two things: scrunchies and patience. Depending upon how stretched you want your hair,  you can band in as few as two sections, or as many as 10 (or more”>. Simply part hair into sections, and put each section in a ponytail. Move down the length of the hair, adding more scrunchies. For less stretch, space them wider apart. For more stretch, put the scrunchies close together. For hair that stretches quicker, wait until your hair is almost completely dry to band it — or band hair that is already dry. Soaking wet hair underneath bands will take an eternity to dry. And remember — don’t cause too much tension at the roots!

4. Braiding

Braiding as a stretching method gives you the best of both worlds. Not only does it elongate the hair, but the end result can range from a smooth crinkly style to flowy mermaid-esque waves. For less stretch and more definition, create smaller braids. For more stretch than definition, make larger (about 4″> braids. For maximum elongation, make sure hair is completely dry first. Some naturalistas love to blow dry or band, then braid!

5. Bobby Pins

Don’t want to chance ruining the rest of your style, but still want some stretch? Try bobby pins. I have multiple textures, and the front/center area of my hair shrinks significantly more than the back of my hair. To avoid mushroom hair syndrome, I almost always spend day 1 of my wash and go with a pulled back style using bobby pins. It allows the bulk of my hair to dry, and helps my hair to dry in the most shrinkage-prone areas of my hair to dry in the stretched position. Bobby pinning is also good for braidout stretching as well. Braiding the hair, stretching it across the head, and securing it with bobby pins guarantees even more stretch!

How do you stretch your hair?

What’s All the Fuss About Mineral Oil?

“Stay away from mineral oil”

Whether you’re newly natural or a textured hair vet, this is one piece of advice that continues to propagate across blogs, YouTube videos, books, social media, natural hair product websites, and more.

But why? What’s so bad about mineral oil? Let’s explore some commonly held beliefs about the taboo ingredient, and whether or not they are rooted in truth.

Is Mineral Oil Bad For Hair?

2 Ways to Give Yourself a Deva Cut

By far, the best decision I ever made in my natural hair journey was to have my chop turned into a Deva Cut at the end of my transition. Not only was there a tremendous amount of care put into cutting my hair curl-by-curl, the resulting shape of my hair (both curly and straight”> was awesome:

But that was in December. According to several popular stylists that work with natural hair like Felicia Leatherwood, as a rule of thumb natural and curly girls should look to trim their ends every time the seasons change — every 3 to 4 months. It doesn’t have to be a drastic trim, but just enough to get the split, dry, damaged, or uneven ends away from the bulk of the healthy hair.

As much as I love my Devachan stylist Sergio, I can’t afford a Deva Cut every 3 months. Besides, he travels back and forth between New York and LA, so getting appointments that regularly would be insane.

The solution? Do it myself.

Although there are about 54,648 different reasons to not take scissors to your hair yourself, a small trim at home does have some benefits:

1. You save money –you’re only major cost is shears. I spent around $12 for a pretty decent pair from Target.

2. You have a reason to play in your hair, and doesn’t love playing in their hair?

3. You’re able to learn even more about the unique characteristics of each section, coil, kink, or curl–thus becoming intimate with your natural hair.

4. You’ll become better at trimming. Because of number 3, the more times you work with your hair, the better at trimming it you get. If you know that one side shrinks more than the other, or one section has looser curls, you can trim accordingly to help maintain the best shape.

clip your hair in sections
PHOTO COURTESY OF CHRISTINA PATRICE

There are two ways to approach maintaining a Deva Cut. Option one mimics the Deva Cut itself–working curl-by-curl in medium sections. The second option follows the same notion of working in sections, but on blown out hair.

What you’ll need:

  • Clips
  • Hair shears
  • Clean, dry hair that is styled how your normally wear it. A wash and go style is best, because it allows you to see your hair un-manipulated or stretched, and curls are already clumped and prime for trimming. You can also work with day 2 or 3 wash and go hair.

Instructions

  1. Clip hair in 5 to 7 sections, depending on length and thickness.
  2. Ideally, you want to separate hair based on how it is shaped. Two horizontal sections across the back, three sections around the middle/through the crown (one on the left, right, and center/crown”>, and two in the front/center section.Starting at the back of your hair, take your first section and break it into 3 or more sections. each section should contain a few clumps of curls, to show you how your hair “falls” naturally.
  3. One by one, gently stretch each curl until you reach the end of your hair that you desire to trim. Get as close to the end of the “C” in your curl as possible. In one snip, Trim the end of the curl in a downward motion.
  4. Repeat this step for each small section of curls. Frequently check for a general evenness (each curl will not be dead even”>, and that hair is still falling in the Deva Cut shape you initially had. You can always go back in and trim more.
  5. Repeat steps 2 – 4 for each of the clipped up sections of hair. When you reach pockets of hair that you can’t readily see like the back of your head or crown, use two mirrors to see with shorter hair. For longer tresses, when stretching, pull each curl to the left, right, or upward to see.
  6. Shake it out and fluff! You’re all done! You shouldn’t really notice too much difference in length, but your hair should look fuller!

final deva cut trimTo do a DIY Deva Cut trim on blown out hair, you’ll need:

  • Clips
  • Hair shears
  • Blow dryer with comb attachment or concentrator nozzle
  • Paddle brush
  • Heat protectant

Instructions

  1. On freshly washed and deep conditioned hair, apply your heat protectant and blow your hair out in sections. Use either the comb attachment or concentrator nozzle and paddle brush to get your hair as stretched as possible. If you’re looking for a good heat protectant, click here.
  2. Clip hair in 5 to 7 sections, depending on length and thickness.
  3. Ideally, you want to separate hair based on how it is shaped. Two horizontal sections across the back, three sections around the middle/through the crown (one on the left, right, and center/crown”>, and two in the front/center section.
  4. Starting at the back of your hair, take your first section and break it into 2 sections. Take the first section, and brush it with the paddle brush to ensure it is fully detangled and stretched.
  5. On the final brush stroke chase your index and middle fingers (similar to how you’d use a fine tooth comb chasing a flat iron”> down the length of your hair behind the paddle brush, until you reach the end you want to trim. Follow the same swift snip in a downward motion.
  6. Repeat steps 2-4 for each of the clipped up sections of hair. When you reach pockets of hair that you can’t readily see like the back of your head or crown, use two mirrors to see with shorter hair. For longer tresses, when stretching, pull each curl to the left, right, or upward to see.
Shake it out! You’ll notice that your cut is more even, thanks to the blow out being helpful in making length and damaged ends easier to see.

Happy Deva Cutting!

20 Super Sweet Hair Products to Indulge In

Like most folks, I love chocolate. But we can’t eat it all the time, right? Luckily, I’ve found the perfect substitute for a chocolate-fueled sugar binge: hair products.

So the next time you feel a sweets craving coming on, pick up one of these 20 products to indulge in, guilt-free.

Deepthi Organics Oils | Curly Product Review

In my recent article 6 Oils and Butters for the DIY-Challenged, I confessed that DIY oil and butter blends are not my cup of tea. I am in no way, shape, form, or fashion a home mixtress — I loathe the idea of whipping cake batter. So when Deepthi Organics came knocking, I was beyond excited to dabble into two new oils that I hadn’t seen much about online. I was sent two oils from the Organic Verdana collection — the Shine & Control Hair Oil and the Moroccan Beauty Oil.

Both bottles are well on their way to being empty, and with good reason. They are versatile and multi-use, which gets them ranked high in my book. Both oils are 100% natural, silicone-free (curly girl friendly”>, scented with essential oils, and free of parabens and other synthetic preservatives. The Organic Verdana oils are certified organic by EcoCert as well.

I fell in love with Deepthi Organics, and I seriously cannot get enough of the Moroccan Beauty Oil and Shine & Control Hair Oil. Here’s why:

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Watch the Video

For more information on the products themselves:

Moroccan Beauty Oil

Description: Liquid Gold in a Bottle, Dermatologist Tested. Multifunctional product for skin & hair.

  • Extremely light and fast absorbing
  • Ideal nighttime treatment for face & neck
  • Softens dry elbows and heels
  • Tames and conditions hair
  • Nourishes scalp and cuticles
  • For all skin and hair types
Top Ingredients 411:
  • Organic Argania Spinosa (Argan”> Oil:  Oil derived from the seeds of the fruit of the Argan tree, touted for high concentrations of vitamins A and E, Omega-6 fatty acids, carotenes, squalene , phenols and other phytonutrients. These are critical in the development and maintenance of a healthy skin barrier and healthy hair. Antioxidant rich and able to penetrate the hair to some degree, Argan oil can help reverse and repair signs of aging hair and skin, as well as protect it from further damage. Argan oil conditions, softens, and improves elasticity in hair and skin. 
  • Organic Sweet Orange OilEssential oil fragrance known for brightening, and mood-boosting properties. Also contains mild cleansing propertes which can help prevent buildup of oil and product on the hair.
  • Organic Melaeuca Quiquenervia (Niaouli”> OilNatural essential oil made of the Niaouli leaves and branches, native to Australia and Madagascar. It is promoted for its antiseptic, antibacterial, and preservative-like properties.Used to keep oils and butters from going rancid without the potentially harmful side effects of traditional preservatives.

Shine & Control Hair Oil

Description: For silky smooth hair. Tames frizz and flyaways. Dermatologist tested. Non-greasy; perfect for all hair types. Super light, quick absorbing, organically scented.

Top Ingredients 411:
  • Capric/caprylic triglyceride: Fractionated coconut oil that is light weight, nutrient rich, and fast absorbing. All the benefits of coconut oil without the heaviness.
  • Organic Glycine Soja (Soybean”> Oil: Moisturizing and nourishing oil rich in omega 3 fats and protein.
  • Organic Sweet Almond Oil:  Nourishes hair, smoothes hair cuticles to control shedding, promotes hair growth and thickness, prevents hair loss, and boosts shine.
  • Organic Sunflower Seed Oil: Pressed oil of the sunflower seed, rich in omegas 6 and 9 which help stimulate growth, improve elasticity, and ciments the cuticle layers to help improve moisture retention and correct porosity issues.
  • Organic Sesame Seed Oil: Oil enriched with Vitamin E, B complex and minerals such as magnesium, calcium, phosphorus and protein which strengthens the hair from the root and gives deep nourishment.
  • Also contains extracts of Brahmi, Gotu Kola, Lavender, and Green Myrtle. These extracts work together to nourish the roots of the hair, stimulate the scalp, and increase luster while revitalizing dry, dull, brittle hair.
Sea Buckthorn Oil for Healthy Hair and Scalp

Are you ready to take your hair, scalp, and body health to the next level? Sea Buckthorn Oil may just be the thing you need. When it comes to healthy hair and scalp, oils like tea tree, castor, coconut, and olive are frequently mentioned. As far as supplements go, biotin and MSM tend to reign supreme.

Sea Buckthorn Oil helps stimulate hair growth while improving the overall health of your hair, scalp, and skin.
Where’s this wonder oil from?

The sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides”> plant is native to several sandy coastal and semidesert areas of Europe and Asia. 90% of the world’s natural Sea Buckthorn habitat is found in China, Russia, northern Europe, and Canada where it draws part of its name from its proximity to the coastline and the salt sprays it receives from the sea.

Nutrients

Sea Buckthorn Oil is a deep amber and relatively thin in consistency, but boasts a rich nutrient profile beneficial for hair and scalp:

Vitamins A & E

Vitamins A & E are actively involved in the rejuvenation and renewal of cell membranes, and are superior antioxidants which help to fight aging in hair and skin — combating dryness, brittleness, thinning, and breakage.

Vitamins B1 (Thiamin”>, B2 (Riboflavin”>, B6 (Pyridoxine”>

Combined, these B vitamins are responsible for helping to convert food into energy, and are essential for the rejuvenation and creation of healthy skin, hair, and blood. B6 is also responsible for the creation and stimulation of healthy blood cells, which transport oxygen and vital nutrients throughout the body and to the hair.

Vitamin C
Anti-oxidant properties of this essential vitamin are beneficial for fighting the free radicals and environmental factors that can cause structural damage to the proteins in hair– helping to prevent breakage and split ends.

Amino Acids
Hair is made of keratin, and keratin is made of amino acids. Amino acids are essential to replenishing the strength and health of hair that has suffered mechanical or chemical damage, and for promoting healthy hair growth.

Omega-7
A little-discussed omega, this fatty acid provides key building blocks for skin, hair and nails. It helps combat dryness, loss of skin and hair elasticity, and other symptoms aging and damage. It protects against oxidative damage, helps hair retain moisture better, and can even help repair sun-damaged hair and skin.

How to Use Sea Buckthorn Oil

Sea Buckthorn Oil is incredibly potent, and in use for hair it is best treated as an essential oil — meaning you will get the most benefit and value by mixing it with a complimentary carrier oil for use. Coconut, jojoba, hemp, olive, grapeseed, and sweet almond are all great options. But be warned, it does not have the most pleasant of smells. Combining with other carrier and essential oils will help mask the smell and make it more tolerable. 

Sea Buckthorn Oil can be purchased at many online retailers. I purchase my Life Flo brand of Sea Buckthorn Oil from Vitamin Shoppe for $17.  

Scalp Massage & Pre-Poo

For a stimulating scalp massage and pre-poo, mix:

  • 1oz Virgin Unrefined Coconut Oil
  • 1oz Cold Pressed Virgin Olive Oil
  • 10 drops Sea Buckthorn Oil
  • 5 drops Rosemary Essential Oil

Massage into the scalp and work through the length of your hair. Allow it to sit for 30 minutes to 1 hour then continue your wash day regimen as usual.

Scalp Treatment

If you suffer from psoriasis, Seborrheic Dermatitis, or Eczema–use this soothing blend on your skin and scalp. This blend will help ease itching, and may even slow scalp flaking.

Ingredients
  • 1oz Alcohol-Free Witch Hazel (I recommend Thayer’s”>
  • 1/2oz Glycerin
  • 8 drops Sea Buckthorn Oil
Directions

Mix all of the ingredients and shake well. It will be runny, so applying a little at a time to the desired areas using a dropper is best. Be sure to rub it into your scalp or skin well, to avoid staining from the Sea Buckthorn Oil.

Easy DIY Conditioner

For extra conditioning, add 5 – 10 drops of Sea Buckthorn Oil to your favorite regular and deep conditioners. Be careful at all times when handling Sea Buckthorn Oil — it can temporarily stain clothing, surfaces, and even your skin a deep orange, which is why diluting it (like in the recipes above”> is recommended. Alternatively, this Aubrey Organics Sea Buckthorn Leave-In Conditioner already contains the oil as an ingredient.

Vitamin Supplement

If you want to kick the benefits of Sea Buckthorn up a notch, taking a supplement is always an option. I personally take the Solaray Super Omega 3-7-9, which has been working exceptionally well to combat my scalp psoriasis. Since incorporating the Sea Buckthorn-based omega into my vitamin regimen, my scalp health has drastically improved, which has translated into less flakes, less breakage, and less-complicated wash days.

Will you be incorporating Sea Buckthorn Oil into your regimen? Let us know.

And go visit more of my posts on ManeObjective.com.

The Slick Back: Top 10 Edge Tamers

From wash and go’s to stylish updos while temperatures climb, or for slicked back ponytails for a polished 9 to 5 look, sleek edges are the cornerstone for many of the most chic natural hair styles. Taming curly, kinky, and coily edges can be a daunting task, but luckily these 10 products are up for the job. Decide what level of hold you’re looking for and find the one that will work for you!

Top 10 Curly Girl Edge Tamers

If You’re Tender Headed, Read This Now

If you’re anything like me, growing up you sat between your mom or grandma’s legs, head resting on her knee while you winced and whimpered as she combed, brushed, styled, braided, or pressed your hair. “Tenderheaded” was your middle name as a child, and as an adult, you get a little teary-eyed at the thought of sitting through braids and other styles.

Coping With a Sore Scalp

How to Big Chop With Confidence!
PHOTO SOURCE TAMERA MOWRY

The second my stylist took a hack at my heat damage and  I saw 4+ inches hit the floor, I panicked. I had second, third, fourth, fifth, and sixth thoughts about what I was doing. I knew going in that when I emerged from the chair, my hair would be considerably shorter than it had ever been.

I was terribly self-conscious because I had only chopped all my hair off once, and it was straight, blonde, and fly. This, this chop thing was totally different. Even though I had 21 months of growth, my hair was extremely curly and shrunken thanks to the multiple textures of my mane. But nearly 3 months later, I look back and wonder why I was so worried. Big chopping, although nearly 2 years into my transition, was the best decision I had ever made for my hair.

In the world of natural hair, there are two ways to go about taking your mane from a damaged, and sometimes unhealthy mess to a head full of gorgeous kinks, coils, curls, and waves. One method is transitioning for a given amount of time, and then chopping your ends whenever you feel comfortable. The other, more gutsy method is to big chop. Big chopping involves straight up cutting all your hair off and starting from scratch. It can be exhilarating, fun, edgy….and a total nightmare.

In a culture where beautiful hair is the currency, it can be absolutely difficult to feel attractive after getting rid of something you’ve had your whole life — long hair. And even if prior to chopping your hair didn’t go past your chin, you still had more then than you have post chop. I won’t pretend to know the feeling of waking up the morning after BC-ing, and realizing that there is no more than an inch of hair atop my head. I transitioned for 21 months to avoid that very feeling. But because I chopped before my goal length, I know exactly what it feels like to have less hair than you’ve ever had, and to have to actively work at loving your hair and feeling beautiful.

Before you big chop:

These tips will be vital to big chopping with confidence, and being armed with information will help you navigate the first stage of your hair journey.

Will you transition first? For how long?

Most TWAers transition anywhere from 1 to 6 months to avoid a super low cut.

The TWA Stage

Understand how long you will be in the TWA stage. Depending on the texture, amount of shrinkage, and growth rate of your hair, the TWA stage will last anywhere from 1 to 4 years. Be prepared for that.

Your Regimen

After you’ve made up your mind to chop, be sure to take the time and develop a regimen for yourself that works. Because a TWA (although thick”> is not tons of hair to play with, selecting products that work well at keeping your hair moisturized, strong, and growing will be key. The TWA stage is the best time to experiment with products for moisturizing, nourishing, and styling the hair — because if you don’t like a product, doing a 2nd or 3rd wash day in a row won’t be a terrible nightmare. Enjoy that product experimentation now, because as your hair grows, detangling, washing, and styling will become more time consuming.

Hide your stash

Alongside developing your regimen, be sure to trash or put away all the things that will have you second-guessing your decision. This is a piece of advice I offer to long-term transitioners as well.  If after you chop, there is still a relaxer kit somewhere in your house, throw it out. Stash your flat iron somewhere you’ll forget about it, give it away, or put it in someone else’s care for the time being. The same goes for hair tools you won’t have any immediate need for, like scrunchies, updo clips, and even fine toothed combs. Do everything possible to prevent going back on or getting down on yourself about your decision, by removing those things from around you. Also, if you’ve decided to pursue an ingredient-conscious natural hair journey, be sure to chuck any products that contain ingredients you won’t be using–such as isopropyl alcohol, petroleum, or mineral oil.

Have fun!

Once you’ve got your regimen together and your no-no products and tools out of sight, you’re ready to have some fun with your TWA. The TWA presents a unique opportunity to be fashion forward, edgy, and daring with bold prints, bright colors, and eye-popping designs. Even if you aren’t a fashionista at heart, there are certain accessories and pieces you can use to amp up the flavor and feel gorgeous –like super cute earrings, a studded headband, or dazzling statement necklace. And don’t forget the makeup! You can also use your TWA time to experiment with colors and hair dye that will add richness and dimension to your cut — especially as it grows out.

WATCH: Priscilla’s 2nd Big Chop!
PHOTO SOURCE STARKANDIGIRL

TWA Maintenance:

Moisturize daily
Although the TWA is less hair, the moisture from it evaporates quickly. Daily refreshers with a light water-based hair moisturizer or spritz is ideal and will keep your hair hydrated between washes.
Protect your TWA at night
If you aren’t a big fan of satin bonnets or scarves, at least sleep on a satin pillowcase. No need in drying out the hair prematurely, and cultivating bad hair habits now!
Clarify, strengthen, and do deep treatments
Caring for your newly natural TWA will involve much more than cowashing and moisturizing. Make sure that at least monthly, you are using a clarifying treatment or shampoo to thoroughly cleanse your hair and scalp to remove buildup. Deep treatments will be useful in helping to nourish, moisturize, and strengthen your hair as it grows.

Be your own kind of beautiful!

This tip is above all, he most important. Define your beauty for yourself, be confident in who you are, and the decision you made. Hair grows, life goes on, and at the end of the day, you have to be comfortable in your own skin. Embrace your beauty, courage, and determination as a woman who has decided to embark on a personal and hair growth journey. You were beautiful before you cut your hair, you are beautiful with your TWA, and you will continue to be beautiful as your hair grows.

Should You Avoid Glyceryl Stearate

Sometimes, the ingredients listed on products sound creepier or more confusing than they actually are. Thanks to an overabundance of information on sulfates, silicones, parabens, petroleum, and other potentially naughty ingredients, products that don’t have plainly understood ingredients like coconut oil and botanical extracts are often frowned upon by curly girls.

What is Glyceryl Stearate?

Glyceryl stearate is the end result of reaction between glycerin and stearic acid. We all know what glycerin is and does (generally vegetable based humectant”>, and stearic acid is a fatty acid compound extracted from a variety of vegetable, animal, and oil sources such as palm kernel and soy. The end result of the reaction with glycerin and stearic acid is a cream-colored, waxy like substance.

What does Glyceryl Stearate Do?

Glyceryl stearate helps give products the creamy smooth feel we love

Glyceryl Stearate is a popular cosmetic ingredient in everything from mascara to conditioner. But for hair products in particular, glyceryl stearate helps give them the creamy smooth feel we curlies love, and softens our hair. Additionally, glyceryl stearate helps form a protective barrier on the hair to prevent moisture loss, and also fight free radical damage.

Is it Harmful?

According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG”> database, glyceryl stearate has a rating of 0, which means it poses no risk. There are no associated organ toxicity (reproductive and non”> concerns, no potential for environmental toxicity, or bioaccumulation hazards. Additionally, it has been recognized as safe for use as an additive in food by the FDA (although I can’t understand why anyone would want to eat waxy stuff”>. 

What Products Contain Glyceryl Stearate?

There are tons of products that contain glyceryl stearate. Some hair and cosmetic products I’ve encountered include Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Lavender Mint Moisturizing ConditionerAunt Jackie’s Knot on My Watch, OGX Nourishing Coconut Milk Conditioner, Design Essentials Natural Curl Stretching Cream, ORS Curls Unleashed No Boundaries Leave-In Conditioner, and As I Am Coco Shea Spray.

Give It a Break Girl, You’re Detangling TOO Much

Detangling

For many of us, it might as well be a four letter word. Some of us avoid it until our hair is on the brink of disaster, while others may do some form of it a few times a week or even daily. We all know the dangers of pushing detangling sessions too far back — from breakage and matting to cutting out clumps of knots. But what about detangling too frequently? Is there a such thing as doing too much detangling?

There’s an old adage that says, too much of anything is bad for you. By and large, that tends to be true. Detangling is great for releasing shed hairs, making the removal of buildup easier, and not to mention, it is the cornerstone of every fabulous natural hair style. But when done too often, detangling can lead to the following:

Hygral Fatigue

Every time we douse our hair in water, the shaft expands to accommodate the uptake in water. As it dries, the shaft contracts and returns to normal. This is a regular thing for all hair, and does not typically cause damage–except for when done in excess. Constant expansion and contraction (from doing daily wash and go’s or daily soaking wet detangling”> can cause damage to the cuticles and cortex of the hair, weakening them to the point of premature breakage. This does not mean that you should avoid moisture at all costs — just pull back to spritzes of water or a refresher, or light moisturizers and creams instead of dunking your hair in water. The best way to tell if you have hygral fatigue is to take a few strands of hair the next time you wet it, and pull them gently. If your hair springs right back to its kinky, coily, or curly self, then you’re good to go. If the hair takes a while to retract back (like an overstretched scrunchie”>, or just breaks in your hand, you’ve got hygral fatigue.

Excessive Cuticle Wear/Thinning Ends

Another pitfall of excessive manipulation via detangling is wear on the cuticles — especially the ends. Every time we touch our hair, we take a little cuticle with us. So even if you’re doing the most gentle, coconut oil-only, 3 hour painstakingly slow detangling session, you’re still causing your hair damage. When done on a regular basis (not excessive”>, the results should not significantly impact your hair health and length retention. But if your hands are in your hair detangling constantly, expect every move of a comb, fingers, or denman to chip away at the cuticle of your hair. You may not notice it at first, but gradually the ends will begin to thin out and look wiry.

You may even find that your hair is having difficulty retaining moisture, because excessive detangling/combing has led to chipped cuticles along the shaft, causing moisture to be lost. If it’s not too late, cut back on detangling and combing sessions now. To prevent further damage, begin incorporating protein treatments (like Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask, Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus Protein Deep Conditioner, or ApHogee Curlific Texture Treatment“> into your deep conditioning regimen, and use leave-ins with protein (like It’s a 10 Miracle Leave-In Plus Keratin, and ApHogee Keratin & Green Tea Restructurizer Spray“> to help patch up the cuticle.

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Breakage

All breakage is not preventable. Our hair wears and tears with everyday life, but that doesn’t mean everyday detangling is okay. Excessive manipulation via detangling and combing leads to more breakage than necessary — whether it be from hygral fatigue, worn down cuticles, or just mechanical stress. Hair without a white bulb on the ends (regardless of length”> is breakage. Seeing more bulb-less wisps of hair than not? Time to change up the routine.

Unnecessary Hair Loss

Even if your hair isn’t breaking excessively, chances are with every tug of a finger detangle, or move of a comb, you’re uprooting hair that isn’t ready to leave your scalp yet. Shed hair that has left your scalp and needs to be freed from entanglement will always have a white bulb on the end. Have you ever encountered a hair that had a dark brown or blackish bulb at the end? That’s a hair that was plucked directly from your scalp before it was ready to go! Everyday combing and detangling increases the likelihood of removing hair from your scalp that could still be well, hair on your head. Over time, hair may appear thinner and if done excessively, can cause trauma to the follicle to the point where hair will not regrow.

So, How Much is TOO Much?

The painful truth here is that there is no right answer. Just like detangling methods (wet, dry, damp, oil-only”> and tools (fingers, comb, Denman”>, the frequency with which to detangle is totally individual and only found through trial and error. Generally speaking, shorter TWA length hair of any texture, and looser curls and waves can be detangled more frequently without as much concern for adverse consequence. But for those looking to retain maximum length, or that are on a growth journey, less is always more.

I typically detangle and wash my hair every 4 to 6 days because I have scalp psoriasis and I work out regularly, so I need to remove sweat and dirt from my scalp. I have found that this works for my hair. Some detangle weekly and wash monthly. It’s up to you, and what your hair can handle. But for most textures, I would recommend not detangling more than twice a week. Overstepping this occasionally won’t wreak havoc on your hair. But remember what we discussed earlier? Too much of anything is bad for you and your hair.

The Bottom Line:

Our Hair Never “Fully” Detangles

One last thing to take into consideration before your next detangling session is: that our hair never fully detangles. Our kinks, coils, and curls looooooove each other so much that they’d rather buddy up together than remain apart. This is the main reason why many naturals wash and detangle their hair in sections, and twist or braid each section up as they go along. So even if after 2 hours your hair isn’t 100% tangle-free, that’s okay. We’re never going to get each and every single tangle out of our hair — it is an impossible task. So save yourself some time, a few broken hairs, and a heap of conditioner by aiming to have your hair between 80 and 90% detangled each time.


Christina Patrice is NaturallyCurly.com’s resident 3C product junkie, who documents her healthy hair journey through her blog, ManeObjective.com.

True or False: Sulfates Are Evil
One of the cornerstones of the Curly Girl Method is avoiding shampoos and cleansers that contain sulfates. As a result of the rise in popularity of embracing naturally curly hair, many product manufacturers have responded with shampoos, cowashes, and other cleansers that are labeled as “sulfate free” to meet textured hair demands.

But in truth, many products labeled “sulfate-free” contain sulfates still — just not SLS or ALS, which are the two harshest. There are more gentle sulfates that have been developed, and some SLS containing shampoos even have other ingredients that soften the blow of the sulfates.

Many products labeled “sulfate-free” contain sulfates still — just not SLS or ALS

But are sulfates really that bad? Or is there a possibility that the concern around them is a little overblown? Let’s explore 4 popular claims and whether they hold any weight:

The Difference Between Hair Oil and Serum

As a product junkie and blogger, I read tons of ingredient labels. I’m also keen on marketing tactics that cosmetic companies use to hook ladies looking for the perfect tresses. From label fonts and coloring and pixie dust extracts (you know, the ones featured prominently on the front label, but that are actually listed as 28th of 32 ingredients”> to peddling promises that can’t be delivered, thousands of dollars are spent to connect their products with your wallet. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not against marketing products at all. I’m just not a huge fan of watching people be misled, especially when it comes to oils and serums for the hair.

In many drugstores, beauty supply and salon stores, there are serums everywhere that are labeled as oils, and many ladies using them as though they are pure oils. Often times, they’re infinitely more expensive than the raw ingredients they tout on the label. To help you safeguard your wallet and get the most out of what you put in your hair, let’s dive head first into a quick savvy shopper lesson on oils vs. serums.

Oils Vs. Serums

The Satin Strip Braid-Out

The satin strip braid-out has been my rock over the past few years. As an early transitioner, I used the technique to create texture where there was one (severe heat damage will do that to ya”>. In the later part of my transition, it was my go-to texture blending style. It is the perfect style for a weekend or special night, and requires minimal skill. There are two methods to the satin strip braidout, and both yield similar results. Which one you go with is simply a matter of the current state of your hair. Let’s jump right in:

Method 1

Recommended for early transitioners or naturals looking for 100% texture blending

This method involves braiding the satin strip into your hair from the root. For new transitioners, this look creates texture and uniformity from the root to the end–with the added benefit of not having super tapered, crinkly-looking thin ends that most regular braidouts result in. For naturals, this method also creates that same texture and uniformity all the way down. It is perfect for any texture of hair, seriously! Satin strip braid-outs on looser hair textures will result in increased definition, and tighter, coily or kinky textures will see more elongated hair.

Watch the video tutorial:

Method 2

Recommended for long-term transitioners and naturals

This method carried me and saved tons of time at the later stages of my transition. Once you have a significant amount of newly natural hair (transitioning for 9 months or more”>, you can begin a regular braid and then integrate the satin strip at the line of demarcation. This method is perfect for creating the illusion of 100% natural hair. For naturals just looking for an extra oomph at the ends of hair, this method is perfect. If your ends don’t stay braided, twisted, coiled, or you find yourself looking for perm rods to hold your ends often, this method is for you.

What You’ll Need

You can definitely feel free to use any combination of moisturizers and definers that you choose. Some of my favorite stylers that I’ve used previously are EcoStyler Gel (green”> and Obia Curl Enhancing Custard. Or, for a much softer (and not nearly as long lasting”> result you can use moisturizer only and a little bit of butter of choice. You can also read my product reviews for both 

Read my product reviews for these items in the “product review” section of my blog, www.maneobjective.com.

Watch the video tutorial:

And finally, a few tips before starting your own satin strip braidout:

  • Start on freshly washed and conditioned hair. The style can be achieved on dirty hair, but will yield better and longer-lasting results if the hair is clean.

  • DO NOT SEPARATE THE HAIR! The magic in the satin strip braidout happens when the hair is kept together. For Method 1, the satin strip forms 2 sections of hair for the braid, and the hair itself is the 3rd section. In Method 2 the same concept applies, but only after braiding your hair to the point where you want to include the satin strip.

  • Make sure your hair is 100% dry before taking down, or else the braid-out will swell and lose definition– resulting in a short lived style (unless that’s the look you’re going for”>.

Good luck satin stripping! Wait, that didn’t sound right…

6 Gentle Dyes for Naturally Curly Hair

samantha gunter maroon hair

If you search the hashtag #naturalhair on Instagram, you’re guaranteed to come across some jaw-droppingly gorgeous kinky, curly, and coily manes. Not only do their curly fros, twist-outs, and updos defy gravity, many social media naturalistas are rocking eye-catching hues on their manes, from golden blonde ombre to sizzling red and cool blue. If you’re anything like me, you look wistfully at these photos and begin contemplating what products you can hold off on buying in order to save up for a professional dye job. But then you chicken out, not only unsure of committing to a color, but somewhat fearful of ruining the natural hair you worked so hard to grow.

Check out these 6 much safer alternatives to add a little dimension to your hair. Fair warning: they won’t give you drastic color lift/change, but it should be enough to satisfy your curiosity. Plus, they are all fairly affordable and relatively easy to do at home.

photo I_AM_PHOENIX

next page: Henna 

henna powder

Body Art Quality Henna

BAQ Henna is a personal favorite of mine. Not only do I use it monthly to help keep my scalp psoriasis at bay, I also love the rich reddish tint that the ground up leaf deposits on my hair. Although not entirely invisible in indoor lighting, outdoors my henna color is gorgeous! Not only will henna give you a little reddish color boost, it also conditions the hair, thickens it, helps promote shine, and make it stronger.

My personal favorite Body Art Quality brand is Jamila because the sift is super fine, making it easy to apply and rinse out. Before discovering Jamila, I tried Light Mountain brand henna, and each month was a fiasco in terms of trying to get the grit and twigs out of my curly mane. Also do note that pure henna that won’t harm your hair or skin only comes in one color: red. Anything else (black henna, brown, etc.”> may contain additives and chemicals that could cause irritation, so beware. If the box does not say 100% pure henna/lawsonia inermis, put it down and slowly and back away.

To see how I mix my henna, click here.

next page: Indigo

indigo plant

Indigo

In a similar vein to henna, indigo comes from ground plant leaves. When mixed with liquid (water”> and exposed to air it turns blue. Don’t worry though, indigo actually turns the hair deep black, and has been used to do so for thousands of years. Indigo requires a firm commitment; once you’ve use it you can’t go back for some time until it wears off.

If your hair is a lighter color than brown, it is advised that you henna hair first, then apply indigo.

For more on indigo, check out Shelli of Hairscapades and her 2-step henna/indigo process.

next page: SheaMoisture Ammonia-Free Hair Color

shea moisture hair dye

Shea Moisture Moisture-Rich Ammonia-Free Hair Color System

Shea Moisture is everywhere these days! When they decided to launch a hair color system, the entire natural hair community was thrilled. Finally, a hair coloring solution that catered to the concerns of kinks, curls, and coils!

Since many textured beauties already have challenges retaining moisture and porosity issues, the fact that this color system is ammonia-free is a huge deal.

Ammonia is the ingredient in most hair dyes that lifts your cuticle so that the peroxide can penetrate and zap your natural pigment. The ammonia-peroxide duo can leave hair dry, straw-like, brittle, and of course, with irreversible cuticle damage (leading to more porosity and dryness issues”>.

next page: Ion Color Brilliance

ion hair color

Ion Color Brilliance Semi-Permanent

If you used to get your hair professionally done back in the day, you might remember having your stylist do a super conditioning and tinting treatment on your hair, known as a cellophane. In high school I lived for the cellophane color because it was the only color my parents would allow me to have –because it was non-damaging, not permanent, and not “too grown” (haha”>.

There are tons of brands out there, such as Jazzing by Clairol that serve the same function– but the Ion Color Brilliance line is my personal favorite pick. Because I henna my hair regularly, I have no particular need for colored cellophane. But what I do enjoy is that brilliant shine that a dose of this product in clear gives. Ion Color Brilliance is ammonia and peroxide free, making it ideal for non-damaging coloring.

next page: Manic Panic Cream Color

amplified hair coloring cream

Manic Panic Amplified Cream Color

If you’re into hot hues and bright colors without the commitment, Manic Panic is definitely worth considering. This semi permanent hair color comes in shades ranging from Cotton Candy (hot pink”> to After Midnite (deep navy blue”>. Lighter color hair will always yield the best results, but you can always take some inspiration from the wonderful Evelyn From the Internets on how to get bright colors on dark hair.

next page: DIY Hair Lightener

lemon juice recipe

DIY Hair Lightener

Of course, no article about hair color is complete without a DIY recipe. Check out this homemade mix to gradually lighten your hair.

Ingredients: 

  • 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 2-3 cups of strong chamomile tea

Directions

  • Mix one cup of freshly squeezed lemon juice with three cups of strong chamomile tea.
  • Soak your hair with this mixture.
  • Air dry on the sun then rinse out and condition well.
  • Repeat this 2-3 times per week for best results.

 

"Straight Hair" Products for Curly Hair? | Product Review

christina patrice coily hairAdmittedly, us natural gals can be product snobs from time to time (or all the time”>. We turn our noses up at products because on the surface, it looks like they’re irrelevant to our natural hair needs — or because we want to distance ourselves from anything remotely related to perms, flat irons, and weaves.

I’m here to say: Keep an open mind. Sometimes, the products you end up loving the most don’t say natural, curly, kinky, coily, or wavy on the label. Case and point: Long Locks Hair Care. I was sent a wonderful haul of products from Long Locks to review: including Peppermint Candy Shampoo and Conditioner, Mystique Frizz Control Cream, and… a GLAM IRON! What’s a Glam Iron, you ask? Only the cutest flat iron…ever. In life. Although I only straighten my hair 3 or 4 times a year, it’s nice to know that next time I crave sleek tresses, I’ll have the chicest iron on the block. Before I get too carried away about the glam iron, let me get to the actual review.

Peppermint Candy Shampoo

Description

Invigorating, clarifying shampoo with peppermint and tea tree oils, thoroughly cleanses while healing and invigorating the scalp. Helps strengthen hair while improving body and shine. Safe for colored and chemically-treated hair.

Ingredient List

Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide MEA, Peppermint Oil, Glycol Stearate, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Polyquaternium-59, Wheat Amino Acids, Polyquaternium-10, Tea Tree Oil, Disodium EDTA, Menthol, Citric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Yellow 5/CL 19140 Blue 1, Cl 42090 Limonene, Linalool

Top Ingredients 411

  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate: Surfactant (cleansing agent”> derived from ethoxylated lauryl alcohol.
  • Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate: Surfactant and foaming agent derived from the ammonium salt of lauryl sulfate.
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine: Coconut oil-derived detergent, anti-static, and hair conditioning agent.
  • Cocamide MEA: Foam boosting and viscosity increasing compound synthesized from coconut oils and ethanolamine.
  • Peppermint Oil: Essential oil used for stimulating and invigorating the scalp and follicles. 

Performance

Right out of the gate, I must say that I absolutely love the fragrance. The essence of peppermint candy is captured to a tee. The shampoo itself is a nice silky green. One major red flag for most naturals will be the SLS and ALS present in the ingredients. I fully expected for the shampoo to dry out my hair, but it didn’t. While my hair was a little more stripped than most shampoos make it feel, I kept in mind that this shampoo’s purpose was to clarify. I loved the cool tingly feeling on my scalp, and how the shampoo had just enough slip to help me continue detangling my hair. It didn’t have tons of miraculous slip, but it was definitely present and there was enough. Overall, I really liked the shampoo. The smell alone reminded me of the peppermints I got as a kid from my Grandma’s purse.

long locks shampoo and conditioner

Peppermint Candy Conditioner

Description

Peppermint Oil and other vital botanicals & nutrients leave hair moisturized, shiny, and full of body after just one use. Special vitamins and proteins protect sensitive scalps. Safe for colored, straightened, and chemically-treated hair.

Ingredient List

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Lactamide MEA, Peppermint Oil, Panthenol, Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Burdock Root Extract, Ivy Extract, Fenugreek Extract, Methylchloroisothiazolinon, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

Top Ingredients 411

  • Cetearyl & Cetyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohols and emollient conditioners known for giving products a creamy, thick texture and feel.
  • Behentrimonium Methosulfate: Mild detangling ingredient made from the rapeseed (canola”>. Known for great detangling without leaving product buildup on hair.
  • Ceteareth-20: Emulsifier derived from fatty alcohols, used primarily to mix oil/water/alcohols, and help evenly disperse ingredients in a product
  • Lactamide MEA: A natural moisturizer and humectant, derived from lactic acid. It used as an anti-static and conditioning agent.
  • Peppermint Oil: Essential oil used for stimulating and invigorating the scalp and follicles. 

Performance

In the same vein as the shampoo, the fragrance of the conditioner did not disappoint. The product itself is white (thank God, I might have lost it over green conditioner”>, and has an incredibly luxurious rich and creamy feel to it. It was the perfect acompaniment to the shampoo — whatever oils I had lost in the clarifying process were definitely restored with this conditioner. Much like the shampoo, the condtioner didn’t have tons of slip — but it had enough to help keep my hair detangled. It was a good conditioner though, and I simply love the ingredients. One interesting thing I did notice about the conditioner is that it gave “weight” to my hair, similar to the effect of henna. Although it was temporary and went down the drain at the next wash, I did enjoy the extra manageability. I love weighty hair–for me it helps keep flyaways at bay and manage shrinkage (as much as it can be managed, lol”>. If you feel like your hair could stand to benefit from some extra oomph, definitely check this conditioner out.

christina patrice lock of hair

Mystique Frizz Control Cream

Description

This fast-drying texture cream tames frizzy and unruly hair resulting in a soft and pliable mane.

Ingredient List

Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Di-PPG-2-Myreth-10-Adipate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polyquaternium-59, Butylene Glycol, Amodimethicone, Fragrance/Parfum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Octoxynol-40, Isolaureth-6, Sodium Benzoate, Methylisothiazolinone, Benzyl Benzoate, Limonene, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl Methypropional, Alpha Iso-Methyl Ionone

Top Ingredients 411

  • Cetearyl & Cetyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohols and emollient conditioners known for giving products a creamy, thick texture and feel.
  • Glycerin: Generally vegetable-based humectant that absorbs and retains moisture from the air.
  • Di-PPG-2-Myreth-10 Adipate: Skin and hair conditioning agent, emollient, and surfactant.
  • Hydrogenated Castor Oil: Castor wax created to improve the shelf-life of castor oil.
  • Behentrimonium Methosulfate: Mild detangling ingredient made from the rapeseed (canola”>. Known for great detangling without leaving product buildup on hair.

Performance

Oh, Frizz Control Cream, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways. You’re lightweight and moisturizing, and double as a leave-in conditioner. The difference with you in my hair is truly night and day. I swoon over your ingredients and springtime fresh fragrance, they complement your creamy texture well. All poetic waxing aside,  I truly do love this stuff and for me it is the absolute GEM of the Long Locks line. All of the aforementioned is true– the ingredients are awesome, the fragrance is fresh and mild, and it is lightweight and moisturizing. But the home run? I’ll just let the picture on the left do the talking.

christina patrice long locks

In this particular wash and go, this was day one as soon as my hair was 100% dry. For the most part my hair behaves itself, but there are random sections that will not bend to my will no matter what I do. I typically let those rebels be themselves, and go on about my business. But this particular day, I wanted to put the Frizz Control Cream to the test. I was using the Frizz Control Cream as my leave-in, Camille Rose Naturals Almond Jai Twisting Butter for moisture, and TIGI Catwalk Curlesque Curls Rock Amplifier for my styler. In the section photo’d, I intentionally skipped the Frizz Control Cream so I’d have a point of comparison. The difference is literally night and day. This isn’t a fluke either– another random section that rebels against me is the front/center of my hair. It is thick, has ridiculous shrinkage, and is a tight wavy pattern. And what did the Frizz Control Cream do? This (see photo”>.

It whipped the front into shape like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Can we say, must have for 2014? Absolutely. I just wish it came in a bigger tube.

Glam Iron

As if I didn’t gush about the Glam Iron enough, let me go ahead and provide a little more information. It’s absolutely fab. It’s pink, and covered in rhinestones. But what does that mean for use and functionality? Here are some quick specs:

  • The Glam Iron heats quickly–within 20 seconds. Seriously.

  • The jewels don’t melt off, thanks to being applied with heat-proof glue.

  • The plate is 1 inch wide–perfect for a variety of lengths and types of hair.

  •  The plate is ceramic with Ion technology.

  • It has an LCD display that flashes “OFF” when plugged in but not on, and has an automatic shutoff if left idle for prolonged periods of time.

  • The Glam Iron has a programmable time feature as well, for up to 120 minutes.

  • The temperature range is from 50 to 232 degrees Celsius, or 122 to 450 degrees Farenheit.

The iron is lighweight and durable, and quite honestly I can’t wait to use it. I’m trying to take my no-heat stretch until May for my birthday, which will be a full 5 months without straightening. But when I do, you better believe I’m using my Glam Iron! Check my blog for the latest updates on this effort.

MORE: TGIN Moist Collection Review

The Hairstyle That Got Me Through Transitioning

PHOTO SOURCE: LIANNE LA HAVAS

Back when I was transitioning, you couldn’t tell me nothin’ about my Big All-Day Bun. It was my go-to transitioning style because it allowed me to have a big, full-looking bun despite my hair being thin and heat damaged.

All I needed to pull of the style was a regular banana clip, bobby pins, a soft bristle brush, water, and a little styling product for my edges–until about month 7.

Once I made it past 6 months of transitioning, banana clips were no longer my friend. I couldn’t get them to stay in my hair without my hair being soaking wet (in its most condensed state”>–and even as my hair dried throughout the day, I found many a banana clip popping out of my head.

I often tried to do my bunning the way many popular naturals do their high puffs and buns–with a double-looped elastic headband. It rarely worked, and most times I found myself with either of the two dilemmas: the bands were entirely too tight on my head (headaches, edge trauma, and the fact that you have to practically choke yourself or squeeze your forehead to death to get the double loop action”>, or they’d just sliiiide right back and make what was supposed to be a fab bun look like a baby knot.

After giving up on  the updo for a while (besides the messy quick fix gym bun”>, I’m ready to get back in the big bun saddle. Armed with similar tools from my transitioning days and a remixed approach, I’m ready to rock the top knot again.

This bun is perfect for type 3 naturals with curls, coils, and kinks that don’t always come together well in a traditional bun. I generally don’t do hair-typing related posts, but in my experience, type 3 hair doesn’t always have the best luck with bunning. Type 3 hair is easily compacted, which can make for small buns that aren’t particularly flattering. To be honest, I’ve got a big head and I need a big bun to match. Beyond that, the double-loop method doesn’t always work because type 3 hair may not have the same staying power of type 4 hair.

The Benefits

This big messy bun is super edges-friendly, and very low tension (no headaches”> while looking messy and chic. It’s versatile enough to go from work, to working out, to a hot date. To change up the look, place the bun slightly off center like Lianne La Havas (pictured”>.

What You’ll Need

  • Water (in a spray bottle”>

  • Butter, oil or moisturizer of choice (I went with Kyra’s Shea Medleys Original Butter Cream“>

  • Large banana clip

  • Scrunchie (remember–with no metal clasp!”>

  • Bobby pins

  • Soft bristle brush

Armed with your tools and ready to go? Great! Check out the tutorial below and get ready to rock it!

Watch the Video

WRITTEN BY THEMANEOBJECTIVE
  READ: Natural Girls Be Like… #WashDay
The Pros and Cons of Biotin

biotinA quick search on google for “vitamins for hair growth” yields countless results and brands, all promising to help usher in strong, vibrant, and growing hair. Amid proprietary blends and secret formulas, there is one ingredient at the core of every hair boosting vitamin: biotin. 

But does Biotin have what it takes to give you the hair length you want? Instead of searching endlessly through Google to find the answer, we went to Erica Douglas, also known around here as Sister Scientist. 

“Biotin contains high levels of Vitamin B. Vitamin B helps to metabolize carbohydrates, fats and amino acids from our diet into energy, which supports cellular metabolism.  This process assists with healthy cell formation and growth, leading to healthy hair, skin and nails when the proper nutrients are in the body.  Vitamin B deficiencies have been linked to hair loss, so it’s important that you consume enough of this vitamin in your diet,” says Douglas.

But does biotin have to be in your diet to work? Or can it be applied topically? Douglas says applying it topically will only give the illusion of thickness.

“I believe that biotin is most effective for the purposes of strengthening hair when used internally.  Follicles of the hair are linked to blood vessels that absorb nutrients from the body.  It’s these nutrients that help to determine the hair’s thickness and strength during the Anagen phase of hair development.  Although topical treatments containing biotin can bind the biotin molecule to the hair giving the illusion of more thickness, at the core of it all, you also want the hair to absorb biotin while it is still connected to the blood vessels in the follicle to provide actual improvement of strength and overall hair health,” says Douglas.

“You will need fewer products that promise the “illusion” of strength and thickness if you maintain a proper diet that contributes to physical improvements from inside the hair.” For more information on biotin and castor oil, head over here

Although most vitamin blends contain 500mcg or more of biotin (and some supplements alone go upwards of 1000 or 5000mcg”>, the daily recommended dose of biotin is about 2.5mg (2500mcg”> for adults. You don’t necessarily need to take a special supplement to get the beauty benefits of this vitamin though — there are plenty of food sources such as wheat germ, whole wheat bread, swiss chard, salmon, chicken, eggs, and dairy that contain biotin. Deficiencies in biotin (although somewhat rare”> can lead to brittle nails and hair loss.

With all the information out there, how can you be certain that a hair growth vitamin or biotin supplement is for you? Let’s take a look at some of the more definitive pros and cons:

Pros

  • Affordable and widely available

  • Helps the body process energy and and transport carbon dioxide from cells

  • Can help strengthen nail cuticles and hair, warding off thinning and breakage of both

  • Supports skin health, and can help ward off psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis, and other rashes

  • Believed to aid in weight loss- when paired with chromium the vitamin supports a quicker breakdown of fats and carbohydrates, leading to a higher resting metabolic rate

  • Improves blood sugar regulation

Cons

  • Can lead to skin breakouts, acne, and rashes (if overdosed”>

  • Raw eggs interfere with the absorption of biotin

  • Interacts with some drugs, specifically those for cholesterol and antibiotics

vitamins

Takeaways

By and large, it appears the benefits outweigh the potential consequences (of course, unless you are taking a specific drug known to adversely interact”> of taking biotin. If you are concerned with acne outbreaks and rashes, here are a few tips on how to help keep your skin clear:

  • Start out at low doses. Anywhere under 500mcg is ideal. If your body tolerates it well, you can move up as far as you feel comfortable doing.

  • Try taking biotin alone at first, instead of as a part of a multivitamin. This can be difficult to do, but it will help you better assess how your body tolerates biotin. If you feel all is well after a few weeks, it should be safe to incorporate biotin into a multivitamin regimen.

  • Be sure to get adequate levels of vitamins A, C, E, and Zinc. All these vitamins and minerals assist in the production of healthy skin cells, collagen, and acne treatment.

  • Drink Apple Cider Vinegar. This is a personal anecdotal piece of advice from me — I drink a 1-2 tablespoons of diluted ACV every night before bed. It has helped keep breakouts at bay, and even got rid of some pesky bumps I had along my jawline before I began taking the vitamin.

At the end of the day, biotin can be beneficial for a number of health and beauty-related reasons. However, this vitamin isn’t for everyone and the pros and cons should carefully be examined before trying it out for yourself.