Search Results: Christina Patrice
Although deep conditioning is an intense treat for your hair, it doesn’t have to be an intense process at all. There’s an over-abundance of information online that makes deep conditioning seem like rocket science, but it is really simple. Actually, getting the most out of your deep conditioner is really simple.
It boils down to what I like to call the 3 T’s: time, temperature, and type.
Time
One of the hallmarks that sets deep conditioning apart from regular rinse-out conditioning (which you should totally be doing on those co-wash days between deep conditioning sessions”> is the amount of time the product spends on the hair. If you read the label of most deep conditioners designed for natural hair, they recommend allowing the product to sit on the strands for 15-30 minutes. Even though some of my favorites that aren’t specifically for textured hair (like Eva NYC Therapy Session”> recommend 3-5 minutes, I still leave them on for 20-30 minutes. Why? Because leaving the conditioner on for 20-30 minutes allows the ingredients to reach maximum adsorption. What this means is that although some ingredients (like proteins”> stick to the hair immediately, with more time, they are able to patch, cover, and stick to more damaged areas than they would if only 3-5 minutes were given. In this article by Jc of The Natural Haven, she shares that deep conditioning ingredients are able to reach maximum adsorption (sticking to/externally repairing”> after 20-30 minutes — 60 – 100% more than they achieve in the standard 3-5 minute time frame. It is important to note that no further adsorption occurs after 30 minutes. So no, you don’t need to deep condition overnight.
- The Takeaway: Leave your deep conditioner on for at least 20 minutes for maximum effectiveness. 30 minutes, if you have color-treated or otherwise damaged hair.
Temperature
Do you have to heat up your deep conditioner for it to be more effective? No, you don’t have to do anything you don’t want to do. But is it more effective? The short answer is, yes. In that same article by Jc linked above, she discusses the impact of temperature on the hair when deep conditioning. But just in case you don’t feel like reading all of that, let me summarize it for you: heat does help lift the hair cuticle, and allow for deeper penetration of ingredients. Heat also facilitates increased adsorption of ingredients to the hair. Heat around 35 degrees Celsius (95 degrees Fahrenheit”> so as to not burn the skin or scalp is found to be most effective. You can achieve this by placing your conditioner in a hot water bath, sitting under a hooded dryer (or hooded attachment”>, or using something like a Hot Head. Just remember to not leave it on for more than 30 minutes.
- The Takeaway: Your deep conditioner + indirect heat = maximum effectiveness.
Type
Now that we’ve got the super science out of the way, it’s time to talk about my favorite part: products. The result you desire to achieve with your deep conditioning session will largely depend on the products you choose. Almost all deep conditioners will have a base that consists of water and fatty alcohols (like cetyl, stearyl, and cetearyl”>. What comes after that will determine how a particular deep conditioner will work for you. But in general, you can follow these guidelines to decipher which deep conditioner to pick up:
Mega Moisture
Look for oils, butters, and humectants (glycerin, panthenol, honey, agave, propylene glycol”> in the first 5-7 ingredients after water. These ingredients will soften and moisturize the hair, along with the fatty alcohols.Protein Power
If your hair is weak or limp from damage or abuse, a dose of hydrolyzed proteins will whip your hair right into shape. Within the top 10 ingredients (because protein formulations and strengths can vary wildly”>, check for hydrolyzed proteins (such as vegetable, quinoa, soy, rice, and keratin”>, and a personal favorite of mine, keravis (aka Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol”> to give your hair a strengthening boost.The Balancing Act
If you’re looking for elasticity, moisture-protein balance, and pH balancing, your conditioner will likely have a top 10 blend of moisture and protein properties like the ones listed above. In addition, they will also likely contain omega and ceramide rich oils like avocado, wheat germ, sunflower, safflower, flax seed, and hemp. You can also count on a dose of amino acids (like glycine, alanine, proline, arganine, lycine, and glutamic acid”>. These aminos tend to be toward the bottom of the ingredient list — and I need to do more research about why. It could be formulation-based, or just pixie dust. I’ll report back and update here when I get a more scientifically solid answer.- The Takeaway: Go beyond what the product says it’ll do. Marketing and gimmicks are real. Turn to the ingredient list — it will give you far more insight into what the deep conditioner can do for your hair.
I wouldn’t be me if I didn’t end this off with a few product recommendations. If you’re looking for:
Mega Moisture: TGIN Honey Miracle Mask, Shea Moisture Manuka Honeu & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration Hair Masque, Eden BodyWorks Jojoba Monoi Deep Conditioner, Amika Nourishing Mask
Protein Power: ApHogee Keratin 2 Minute Reconstructor
Balancing: Shea Moisture JBCO Treatment Masque, Zotos 180 Pro Rapid Restorer, Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus Protein Deep Conditioning Treatment, Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask, ApHogee Texture Treatment, Ouidad Curl Recovery Melt-Down Extreme Repair Mask
[prodmod]If you’re like me, you’ve wanted to get in to diffusing, but just couldn’t figure out why your end results looked absolutely NOTHING like everyone else’s. From dry, crispy, and shrunken, to frizzy and dull, your attempts at diffusing have been practically a fail. Worry no more, I’m here to help! I’ve managed to identify the 4 key areas of concern when it comes to diffusing, and what to do about them.
In this video, I’m starting on a wash and go that I did earlier in the afternoon. I followed the LOC method prior to styling, using Giovanni Direct Leave-In as my leave-in conditioner, Longview Farms Pure Refined Emu Oil to seal in moisture, and Amika Straight Up Smoothing Balm as my cream. I followed that up with my curl definer of choice, and allowed it to air dry with the front pinned back for gentle elongation (since I have more shrinkage up front”> for about 4 hours or so. The front half of my hair is still pretty wet from being pinned up, and my roots were still wet all over, also.
For me, this is the perfect hair to actually diffuse on–I’d say it was about 60% dry. (Yes, my hair takes forever to dry. I’m also applying more Amika Straight Up Smoothing Balm prior to diffusing for added moisture and heat protection. This step is optional, but recommended”>.
So let’s get on with these major areas of concern around diffusing, and how to hack them.
1. Diffuse mostly dry hair for volume
The first and most major area of concern for many of us is shrinkage and lack of volume when diffusing. I know, there’s nothing more irritating than watching a diffusing tutorial on YouTube and emulating what the vlogger did, but instead of a curly, fluffy mane, you end up with shrunken, thin and puny looking curls. Luckily, there’s a hack for that, and it’s really easy: wait until your hair is at least 50-60% dry before diffusing.
Wait until your hair is at least 50-60% dry before diffusing.
Not only does starting on more than halfway dry hair help cut your diffusing time down considerably (leaving you with hair that isn’t dried out”>, air drying prior to diffusing also gives your curls the opportunity to expand naturally before the diffusing process locks them into place. Trust me, I’ve diffused on completely wet hair before. Not only did it take an eternity, but the end result was shrunken and flat. Once you’re done diffusing, you can remove the attachment and send straight shots of heat to your roots and length while gently tugging your hair downward to further elongate and enhance volume.
2. Apply styler, then don’t touch
The second area of concern when it comes to diffusing is frizz. There’s a common misconception because you use a diffuser, your frizz problems will disappear. That’s not the case at all. Mitigating frizz has less to do with the diffuser, and more to do with what happens to your hair prior to diffusing. Combating frizz in the diffusing process is actually two-fold. Before you begin diffusing, ensure that you’ve applied enough styling product to your hair. I’m not saying you have to use an entire vat of Eco Styler gel, but do set yourself up for success by ensuring that your strands are decently coated in your curl definer of choice. And after you’ve applied the product, whether it be via shingling, rake & shake, praying hands, or another method, try your best to keep your hands out of your hair.
Once it’s time to diffuse, make sure you’re handling the hair gently as you move about your head with the diffuser. Moving around your head, alternate between sitting the diffuser at your roots, resting it flush against the length of your hair, and scooping it gently into the bowl and scrunching upward. Repeat this as long as it take for your hair to dry. When it’s 90-95% dry, you can begin shaking and fluffing with the diffuser for added volume.
Bonus hack
Try adding a smoothing balm or serum to your hair right before diffusing. The Amika balm I used in the video below provides heat-activated frizz fighting, smoothing, and heat protection all in one. Smoothing products will help cut down on frizz during diffusing and in the days following.
3. Layer products to avoid crunch
The third area of concern is crunchy curls. Nobody wants crispy curls that look like they’re two steps from total disintegration. The first hack in preventing curl crunch is to layer your products properly and ensure that you have some sort of leave-in (at minimum”> between your curls and your curl definer. The next way to knock out crunchy curls is to scrunch them with an oil of choice — like argan, emu, avocado, or Jamaican black castor oil. Take a dime or nickel sized amount, rub it between your palms and scrunch it throughout your hair gently to remove the crunch (aka gel cast”> without causing frizz.
4. Avoid heat damage
Lastly, let’s address the concern that lies in these two dreaded words: heat damage. Honestly, I’m unaware of anyone having ever suffered heat damage at the hand of the diffuser. If anything, diffusers help prevent heat damage via blow dryer, by diffusing the warm air around the curls, as opposed to directly on them. But even if you’re in the overly cautious camp, there are three simple hacks that you can use to safeguard against heat damage.
- One, keep your blow dryer temperature on cool, low, or medium heat.
- Two, keep the diffuser moving. Don’t sit it on any one section of your hair for too long. I like to move from section to section within 10 seconds or less.
- And three, use a heat protection balm, serum, or spray to shield your tresses.
I hope you all found these hacks helpful. I know in the video, I don’t have the massive, voluminous curls that some YouTubers do, but that’s because I want this wash and go to last a good 3-4 days. Remember, the less manipulation you do on day 1, the longer the style will hold.
Thank you for watching! Be sure to keep up with me on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest and don’t forget to like, comment, subscribe & share this video with a curlfriend!
With Valentine’s Day coming this weekend, sweet treats, flowers, and romantic dates are all the rage. Whether you celebrate Valentine’s or Single’s Awareness Day, a romantic holiday is a wonderful excuse to show your curls a little extra lovin’. Check out these 14 sweet treats that will have your tresses swooning.
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TGIN Honey Miracle Hair Mask
Loaded with honey, olive oil, jojoba, and aloe, the TGIN Honey Miracle Hair Mask envelops dehydrated curls with nourishing moisture, and brings them back to life. And come March, you’ll be able to pick TGIN products up in select Target stores nationwide and here on Amazon. How sweet is that? Read my TGIN review here.
S Dot Beauty Creme Fraiche Hair Pudding
Your curls will swoon over this warm vanilla caramel scented hair cream, as coconut oil, avocado butter, and hazelnut oil smooth and moisturize dry, frizzy hair. The amazing slip on wet or dry hair just sweetens the pot.
All Things O’Natural Natty Cupuacu & Rhassoul Deep Conditioner
With a chocolatey fragrance reminiscent of Tootsie Roll candies, this deep conditioner shows dry tresses extra love with cupuacu butter, rhassoul clay, cocoa butter, cocoa powder, and irish moss. To sweeten the pot, use a little as a leave-in or base for styling your hair.
Amika Nourishing Mask with Sea Buckthorn Berry
Whenever I smell this mask, the one word that comes to mind is romance. Not only does it give my curls swoon-worthy moisture, the floral perfume fragrance reminds me of love. Whenever my curls are in need of a little extra moisturizing TLC, I reach for this Mask with a potent dose of sea buckthorn.
Be Kekoa Be Clean Cleansing Conditioner
Be Kekoa’s Be Clean may not smell like smoldering romance, or contain super sweet ingredients, but do you believe in love at first try? I fell head over heels for Be Clean after one use, and it continues to not disappoint. What’s there to not love about a cool, clean scalp, soft, clean hair, and slip?
Pura Body Naturals Chocolate Hair Smoothie
Chocolate Hair Smoothie is the perfect guilt-free indulgence in chocolate that won’t send you running to the gym afterward. The super-moisturizing blend of aloe vera, cupuacu butter, and cocoa hydrate the hair and add shine, while you smell delicious and dream of chocolates. Seriously, every time I ran errands while deep conditioning with Chocolate Hair Smoothie, I got stopped and sniffed.
Purgasm Shop Wild Cherry Treatment Hair Truffles
Warning: these heart-shaped truffles look like chocolate candies, they smell a little like chocolate candies, but they are not to be eaten! These decadent melt-down treats are made with cocoa, rhassoul clay, banana, silk aminos, and wild cherry back to nourish, strengthen, hydrate, soften, and add shine to hair that needs some TLC. I started using the truffles in my henna mixes, and haven’t looked back since.
Camille Rose Naturals Curl Maker
Darcy’s Botanicals Sweet Cocoa Bean Curl Smoothing Cream
This cocoa butter and sweet almond oil based curl moisturizer and smoother will seriously have you sniffing your hair all day. Although it is thick, it doesn’t weigh the hair down and it provides some serious moisture to dehydrated hair.
TreLuxe Curl Supreme Styling Cream
This sweet and flowery curl cream is truly one of a kind. There’s nothing attractive about the words “tomato fruit ferment extract”, but what this ingredient does for curls and coils is truly luxurious love in action. Shine, definition, super moisture, and lightweight hold, all in one.
Curls Blueberry Bliss Curl Control Paste
Love on your edges a little more this Valentine’s Day with Curls Blueberry Bliss Curl Control Paste. The super sweet fruity pomade is enriched with quinoa, silk aminos, and blueberry extract to nourish and tame edges and curls. For those who are curious, it packs a little more holding punch than the Passion Fruit Curl Control Paste.
Miss Jessie’s Jelly Soft Curls
Romance is definitely in the air whenever Jelly Soft Curls Comes around. Although it smells like fresh laundry, Jelly Soft Curls shows my hair major love on day 1 — giving me crush-worthy curls that are well defined, frizz-free, and bouncy minus the crunch. Read more about my love affair with Jelly Soft Curls here.
Kyra’s Shea Medleys Original Butter Cream
Warm, sweet, creamy vanilla blended with aloe, avocado and shea butters give dry, dull curls tons of love. You can melt the butter cream down for a scalp massage or to add in your favorite conditioner, or leave it as-is for a twist-out and sealing in moisture. Once you open the jar, you won’t want to stop sniffing.
How will you be lovin’ on your curls this Valentine’s Day?
Although the transitioning process can be difficult, learning how to properly stretch your hair can make the journey to natural hair a little easier to digest. Proper stretching can help transitioners in a few different ways:
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Easing the detangling process, and decreasing the amount of breakage from tangles.
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Providing flexible styling options — transitioners can enjoy twist-outs, braid-outs, bantu knot-outs, Curlformers, flexi rods, and more on stretched hair.
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Allowing you to show more length. One of the hardest things about transitioning is when that shrinkage kicks in around months 4 and 5 — your hair begins to seem shorter than it was. It can be quite a shock to ladies used to seeing longer, flowing locks as their hair grows. Stretching will help ease that.
How can you safely stretch your hair and prevent breakage at the same time? Here are 3 gentle ways to make it happen.
1. Banding
Banding (pictured above”> is my favorite stretching method. I used it as a transitioner to stretch my braid-outs and other styles that had shrunken too much, and I also used it prior to doing other styles like Curlformers. Banding is really simple — you just grab a section of hair and a few ouchless scrunchies and go to work! The larger the section and space between scrunchies, the less stretch you’ll have. Smaller sections and more scrunchies closer together will result in a more stretched, blown out result. To ensure that your banding is a success, make sure you:
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Use ouchless scrunchies to ensure that you don’t end up with breakage and hair caught metal clasps.
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Moisturize sections properly prior to banding to prevent breakage.
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Don’t wrap the scrunchies too tightly at the roots. Your edges will thank you.
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Make sure hair is dry prior to releasing the scrunchies. Otherwise, your hair will shrink right back up.
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Remove scrunchies with extreme care. Otherwise, you run the risk of snagging and breakage.
2. Tension Blow Drying
Using the blow dryer is another popular way to stretch transitioning hair. But because it involves heat, transitioners should proceed with extreme caution. Instead of running a paddle brush and concentrator nozzle through the hair or using the comb attachment itself, the tension method will help ensure stretched hair without incurring extra damage to the hair. To use the tension method, simply part your hair into sections. One section at a time, pull the hair taut (not yanking it”> and move the blow dryer (without an attachment or with the concentrator nozzle”>, up and down the length of the hair (without the dryer coming into contact with the hair”>. You can use the tension method on wet or dry hair. Once the section is stretched, twist it loosely or clip it away. To keep breakage and damage at bay:
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Use a leave-in, heat protectant, or blow-drying cream to delay water loss from within the cortex of the hair, helping to maintain elasticity and internal moisture balance.
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Keep the blow dryer moving, and do not stay in one section for too long (to prevent hair from drying out”>.
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Make sure you’re deep conditioning regularly to maintain moisture, elasticity, cuticle health, and prevent heat damage, breakage, and split ends.
3. Roller Sets
There’s no quicker style killer than a halfway dry roller
Another great 2-for-1 stretching method is roller sets. While I failed wildly in executing my roller set, I do know that plenty of transitioners have used this method to show off their length while also getting a great stretch and style from their hair. To pull off a great roller set (the total opposite of mine“>, check out this post on CurlyNikki! Although I can’t tell you how to do one successfully, I can tell you what not to do:
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Don’t use too much product. Stick, tack, and shellac city.
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Make sure the hair lies flush along the roller, for the sleekest results.
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Hair should be pulled taut at the roots, to ensure elongation and smoothness.
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Make sure your rollers are secure! There’s no quicker style killer than a halfway dry roller that falls off and leaves you with frizzy hair (and that’s not the look you’re going for”>.
Which method will you be trying to stretch your transitioning tresses? These methods work for completely transitioned natural hair, too!
I know what you’re thinking, it can’t be true. All-natural heat protection? As in like, no silicones and other funny business?
I was shocked too.
Nicole Metcalf, owner of Organic Heat Pro reached out to me because she wanted me to try her spray. She promised that it provided heat protection, super shine, and was completely natural. She told me it passed all rounds of testing with flying colors. But did it really work? I took it to task on my flat-ironed natural hair that I got done at the Lawrence Ray Concepts Salon.
Key Ingredients
- Exotic fruit oils, pure alkaline water, rosemary oil. To be upfront and honest with you all, they were not able to reveal their full ingredient list to me.
Normally, I’d be concerned, but as a blogger on the business end of things, I’ve come to understand that without the proper legal protection around product formulations, companies leave themselves vulnerable to other brands looking to prey on their ideas and profit. I’d definitely say keep your eyes peeled in the near future for full ingredient disclosure.
- Product Claim/Description: “After years of research on exotic fruit oils, we found the right formula to protect your hair from everyday stress. Organic Heat Pro is all natural and provides unparalleled heat protection for all types of hair.”
Performance/Delivery
Umm….do you see my hair?!
As far as the ingredients are concerned, I did have some initial reservations. However, Nicole Metcalf (the owner”> assured me that the product is all-natural and full of good for your hair fruit oils. The star of the show is rosemary oil, which provides follicle stimulation, and strengthens the roots of the hair, which promotes growth. The spray is water-based, which I actually like. One of my biggest problems when I wear my hair straight is that I am unable to maintain internal hydration, because typically, water + straight hair = reversion. But the Organic Heat Pro blend, when used properly, does not cause reversion or poofiness in the slightest. The oil blend in the heat protectant is lightweight, provides super shine, and does not weigh the hair down. It definitely smells like rosemary, but the fragrance doesn’t linger for long. The spray itself is milky white-ish, but does not build up or flake in the hair whatsoever.
What I like most about the Organic Heat Pro spray is how SHINY my hair is, while still being lightweight and movable. My hair does not feel greasy or oily AT ALL! I’m totally impressed, because this spray is as powerful as some high powered silicone serum — but it’s all natural and totally right up your alley if you’re looking to go cone-free even in straightening.
While I don’t have all the science together of why the spray provides heat protection without silicones, I do know that it works. In the video below, I make 2 and 3 passes over selections trying to curl them (again because I don’t know what I’m doing”>, and I experienced absolutely no heat damage or loss of my curl pattern whatsoever. I’m sold on Organic Heat Pro!
- Drawbacks: I’m an ingredient junkie, so I really want to know what’s in the product. Argan? Pracaxi? Moringa? I’ll be keeping up with Organic Heat Pro for sure, because I gotta know!
- Bonuses: Another thing I really like about the spray is that it”s not just limited to use on straight hair. I use it to seal in moisture for wash and go’s add shine to my natural curls. I sprayed it on my scalp to moisturize and stimulate growth there, too. It’s also perfect if you frequently do blowouts, Curlformers, flexi rods, perm rods, roller sets, or any other stretched style that requires direct or indirect heat.
Bottom Line
Overall, Organic Heat Pro Heat Protection Spray is a one of a kind, all natural, highly effective spray that has quite honestly, blown me away. It does exactly what it says it will do, without all of the ingredients most naturalistas find to be problematic. I mean, look at these curls that reverted back #noheatdamage:
Availability
The Organic Heat Pro Heat Protection Spray is only available online at www.organicheatpro.com
Affordability
At $25 for 8 oz., it is on the pricier side of natural hair care, but in my eyes well worth it. When used properly, a little bit goes a long way. Besides, you get what you pay for–right? I’d never pay $25 for a silicone serum, because cones are cheap. But an all natural, oil-based spray? Very much worth it.
Watch my tutorial & review
And don’t forget to follow me on Instagram @ManeObjective. Subscribe to my YouTube channel for more curly/natural hair tutorials.
In the name of #curlsonfleek, our hair can become dry and brittle to the touch due to holding ingredients like polymers and certain polyquats present in our styling products. But thanks to the increasing demand for more natural products, brands are taking note and delivering gels and curl definers that are botanically-based.
If you follow the Max Hydration Method, swear by the Curly Girl Method, or just are an avid fan of more natural than synthetic hair products, then this list is for you!
Top 8 Botanical Gels For Curly Girls
Depending upon where you live, the winter air can be dry and unforgiving. Combine that with frequent temperature fluctuations as you travel between car and office heaters, and into the cold, and by the end of the day you’re seriously questioning whether or not you even moisturized your hair.
I’m sure you did. But between the weather and heating units, getting hair to stay and feel moisturized can be tough. Your summer/spring oils might not be up to the task, so what do you do? Check out these 4 oils that will help you retain moisture, softness, and shine this winter. And because coconut oil is so 2014, here are some different options.
You can use them individually, blend them for an epic pre-poo, apply them directly to your scalp for a stimulating massage, or mix them into your favorite conditioner for an extra moisturizing boost!
1. Argan Oil
It took me a while to warm up to argan oil, because it can be pretty expensive. Until very recently, I had difficulty coming across a 2 oz bottle that was under $20. But Vitamin Shoppe changed all that! Nowadays, Argan is one of my staple winter oils because it’s lightweight, nourishing, protective, rejuvenative, and $8. Argan oil contains high concentrations of vitamins A and E, Omega 6 fatty acids, carotenes, squalene, phenols, and other phytonutrients. Vitamin A is a potent antioxidant, and along with Vitamin E, helps to fight free radicals to prevent and reverse damage and aging in hair.
Additionally, Vitamin A assists in sebum production to effectively coat and moisturize the hair — helping to ward off breakage. Omega 6 fatty acids control water loss by helping to ciment cuticle layers, stimulate hair growth, and can even provide some relief for dry, itchy, and flaky scalps, while phytonutrients nourish the scalp at a cellular level. Since Argan oil is so nutrient-dense, a little bit goes a long way. One or two pumps per section of hair is plenty enough to impart softness, shine, and moisture.
2. Jamaican Black Castor Oil
Jamaican Black Castor Oil, for all its thick, smelly-ness, is one of my favorite winter oils. A staple of many naturalistas, Jamaican Black Castor Oil (or JBCO for short”> is a thick, highly viscous oil with antibacterial, antifungal, and humectant properties. The major difference between JBCO and regular yellow castor oil is the roasting of the castor beans prior to the extraction process. That is precisely where the burnt, smoky smell of JBCO comes from–and what is believed to give JBCO the ability to improve hair growth, and re-grow previously bare spots in the scalp. I don’t have any hard scientific evidence of the growth properties of JBCO, but it remains a staple of mine because it is one of the best sealants I’ve ever used.
I wear wash and go’s year round, and with my red ombré ends, I need something that is going to protect my ends as they rest on jackets, sweaters, and sweatshirts. JBCO has drastically cut down on my split ends, and it just might be helping out with decreasing fairy knots while leaving my ends smooth and shiny. JBCO is also a wonderful scalp massage oil (just make sure you put it in a narrow tip applicator bottle to avoid overuse”>, and is great for oil cleansing as well.
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3. Avocado Oil
Another winter favorite of mine is the wonderfully multi-purpose avocado oil. I’m not a huge fan of putting food on my hair, so I don’t foresee myself using an avocado mask anytime soon.
However, avocado oil makes a wonderful substitute, because it is rich in Omega 6 and 9 fatty acids. Omegas 6 and 9 are responsible for controlling water loss in the hair, by cimenting the cuticle layer. Avocado oil is full of monounsaturated fatty acids, which are the same fatty acids that make coconut oil so wonderful. In fact, those monounsaturated fatty acids are believed to be responsible for giving oils their hair penetrating properties, which means avocado oil readily absorbs into the skin and may soak into the cortex of the hair, moisturizing internally.
To make a long story short, avocado oil is an wonderful moisturizer, imparts shine, improves elasticity, helps prevent breakage and split ends, and eases itchy, flaking scalp. Although it shares similar properties to coconut oil, it does not solidify in colder temperatures like its tropical counterpart. What’s there not to love?
4. (Sustainable”> Red Palm Oil
For some reason, the smelly oils always find their way to my heart. Although red palm is not nearly as egregious in odor as JBCO, it is not innocuously scented like argan or avocado oil. Red palm oil is harvested from the fruit of the red palm tree itself, instead of the kernel only — which allows it to retain its deep, reddish-orange hue. Red palm oil is rich in carotenes, Vitamins A and E, and monounsaturated fatty acids. In fact, red palm oil contains more beta carotene per ounce than any other oil. The carotenes, combined with Vitamins A and E are vital and valueable antioxidants that help stop and reverse signs of aging, damaging, and weathering on the hair.
Vitamins A and E are also wonderful for nourishing and stimulating the follicles, encouraging healthy hair growth. And we just learned all about what monounsaturated fatty acids are thought to be able to do, so here’s another perfectly viable alternative to coconut oil if you’re looking for shine, softness, and penetration into the cortex of the hair. Because red palm oil does contain some saturated fat, it thickens at colder temperatures. In my experience, it looks partially solid, but has some movement. Sitting the jar or bottle in a warm water bath for 10-15 seconds gets everything nice and liquidy. In case you’re concerned about sustainability, habitat destruction, and other eco-issues, you can rest assured that Nutiva has you covered.
I purchase their red palm oil from Sprouts regularly, and you can read their FAQ and have your concerns assuaged here: http://nutiva.com/company/faq/red-palm-faq/
These are my personal picks. What oils are helping you out this winter?
Editor’s Note, August 2015: The brand Hello Curly no longer exists, Curly Magic is currently being sold by Uncle Funky’s Daughter here.
There’s been a lot of buzz in recent months about the emerging brand, Hello Curly. Most people recall Uncle Funky’s Daughter and their holy grail fave, Curly Magic. Many also recall Tonya Goff, co-founder of Uncle Funky’s Daughter. When the Curly Magic formula changed and Hello Curly sprouted up under Goff’s name as sole owner, many naturalistas were confused. Why did Uncle Funky’s Daughter change their already perfect formula? What is Hello Curly Curl Stimulator, and is it the same as Curly Magic, like Goff says?
According to Goff and other sources, Tonya and her husband went through a grueling divorce and she was forced to sell Uncle Funky’s Daughter against her wishes as a part of the process of dividing assets. She then took her Curly Magic cult favorite formula and rebranded it as Curl Stimulator, under the new label Hello Curly.
Although I never tried the original formula of Uncle Funky’s Daughter, there are several comparison reviews online and the conclusions are all the same: Hello Curly’s Curl Stimulator IS the old Curly Magic.
The Holy Grail lives on under a new name. All of the raves online about Curly Magic and now Curl Stimulator got me curious. How would Hello Curly stack up against favorites of mine like Camille Rose Naturals Curl Maker? Let’s find out.
Ingredient List
Organic Aloe Vera Juice, Aqueous-Infused Extracts of Marshmallow, Chamomile, Nettle, Horsetail, Vitamin E, Agave Nectar Extract, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate and Natural Fragrance
Top Ingredients 411
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Organic Aloe Vera Juiceacts as a natural conditioning agent that restores the hair’s sheen, luster, and shine. It not only makes the hair soft, but it also enhances strength and suppleness. Acts as a natural conditioning agent that restores the hair’s sheen, luster, and shine. It not only makes the hair soft, but it also enhances strength and suppleness.
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Aqueous Infusion of Herbs and Extracts: These herbs and extracts provide slip, conditioning, shine, moisture, and nourishment to the strands while strengthening the follicle and healing damage.
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Citric Acid is a natural extract derived from citrus fruits, it is a widely accepted organic acid used in the cosmetics and food industries as a preservative and a pH control agent. It has antioxidant properties and is used as a stabilizer.
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Potassium Sorbate is a potassium salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring antimicrobial compound; used as a preservative.
Product Claim/Description
“Everybody loves curly hair. It’s unique in its own right, and just like people, no two curls are the same. At Hello Curly, we think of ourselves as Curly Crusaders, on a mission to banish frizz, define curls, and connect souls across the planet. We must warn you, when you use our products all kinds of lovelies will send compliments your way. Take it very personally. It is the Universe’s way of affirming to you that you are beautiful, you are magnificent, and your curls are uniquely amazing!”
“Moisturizes and defines medium to loose curly strands without leaving it crunchy or flaky. Works well to maintain definition on tight curls that have a visible curl pattern when wet, but dries with a kinky afro texture. Tames frizz and defines curls. Firm hold, lots of shine, no crunch. Lasting 2nd and 3rd day curls. Moisturizes and defines medium to loose curly strands without leaving it crunchy or flaky. Works well to maintain definition on tight curls that have a visible curl pattern when wet, but dries with a kinky afro texture.”
Performance/Delivery
Out the gate, the first thing I noticed about Curl Stimulator was the SLIP. Major, major, maaaaajor slip. Any tangles that remained in my head after washing didn’t stand a chance. I definitely think Hello Curly needs to expand their line to include a detangler, because they’ve got that formulation on lock!
The SLIP. Major, major, maaaaajor slip.
Needless to say, the product distributed easily throughout the hair. The moment I applied the Curl Stimulator to my hair, my frizz disappeared. My curls were very well defined — it did an excellent job at capturing that “wet look” curl I like to rock from time to time.
Curl Stimulator definitely has a learning curve. This is not one gel that you can just haphazardly slap in your hair and hope for the best. It is really potent, something I didn’t expect from an all-natural, botanical gel. I played with the gel on several occasions to see what application techniques would give me the best result. I was able to follow pretty much every step I do normally to define my curls, except be heavy-handed with styling product. Overuse can lead to super defined, stringy curls, and may lend itself to stickiness.
Using 1-2 pumps per large section of hair seemed to do the trick. This gel works great alone, or in conjunction with other leave-ins and moisturizers. I had absolutely no trouble mixing it with my faves, and it easily got me to day 3 and 4 hair without feeling dried out or crunchy. I was able to progressively achieve that “right” amount of frizz and definition in the days following, which I absolutely loved!
Oh and the shine? Epic.
Availability
Hello Curly Curl Stimulator is available online at www.hellocurly.com and through online retailers like www.hattache.com and www.hairizon.com.
Affordability
At $25 for 18 oz., Curl Stimulator is definitely on the more affordable end of things, considering the quality. Most botanical curl definers are $12 and up for 8 oz. (or less”>, and the 18 oz. jar of Hello Curly Curl Stimulator is HUGE! Especially considering how little you have to use to get great results. My bottle is going to last me a looooong time.
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Bonuses, Drawbacks, and Bottom Line
- Hands down, the slip. Any product that glides through my hair, kicking tangles and taking names is a winner in my book. Getting product through my hair shouldn’t be a struggle, and Hello Curly understands that.
- To be quite honest, I’m not a huge fan of the fragrance. It isn’t strong and artificial, on the contrary it’s very green, earthy, and gentle. It doesn’t bother me enough to have me discontinue using Curl Stimulator, because it’s not overbearing and fades quickly.
- If you’re looking to clean up your curl definers and use more products that are good for your hair, Hello Curly Curl Stimulator is the one. It does exactly what it says it will do, without drying or dulling your natural curls. A lot of naturalistas have put Hello Curly Curl Stimulator on their holy grail list — and I see why! I’m just about ready to add it to mine!
Are you tired of relaxing, chasing your kinks away with a flat iron, or just ready for a change? Congratulations, you’re on your way to joining #TeamNatural!
The Big Decision
But before you take the plunge, you need to decide–are you going to big chop or transition? If you’re eager for change ASAP, or your hair is severely damaged, you’re likely to opt for the big chop. But if you’re like I was, and are not ready to part with your length, transitioning is most certainly an option.
Before I go any further, let’s clarify the two terms:
Big Chop
Cutting off all straightened, damaged, or relaxed hair into a short fade or TWA (teeny weeny afro”>. The big chop allows ladies to begin their natural hair journey from the ground floor, caring for and styling only the natural hair that grows from the scalp.
Transition(ing”>
Gradually growing out straightened, damaged, or relaxed hair. Transitioners make the conscious decision to stop the practices that got their hair into the position that it’s currently in. Transitioners coddle along both natural and damaged tresses, growing out the hair until they are ready to cut the ends off.
One method is not superior to another, it ultimately is a matter of circumstance and preference. I transitioned because I was uncomfortable with the idea of growing out big chopped hair. There are plenty of resources available to support big choppers (here is a great place to start“>, but today I’d like to chat with all the ladies considering a transition.
Once you’ve made up your mind that you’re going to transition, there are 4 things that you’re going to need to do in order to make it a successful one. This is not to say that you won’t make mistakes or get frustrated, but rather that those hiccups won’t derail your journey to healthy hair.
1. Backwards Plan
I’m sure you’re no stranger to the saying, “Begin with the end in mind.” That is the first thing you will absolutely need to do as a transitioner. How long will you transition? What goal length would you like to achieve before you chop your ends? When I first embarked on my natural hair journey, I gave myself 3 months to test the waters. I wanted to see how much my hair would change without heat in this amount of time. The results were so moving, that I tacked on another 3 months, and then another 3. By the 9th month, I had planted a firm decision in my mind that I would transition for 2 years. Yes, 24 months.
But I didn’t make it, and that was okay.
By month 21, I was at my wits end with my transitioning tresses. I had more natural hair than heat damaged, and I just wanted to be done with them already. I booked a consultation and appointment at Devachan Culver City, and haven’t looked back since. Beginning with the end in mind helped me get as close to my goal as I could. My goal was to have thicker hair that was long enough for me to feel comfortable rocking naturally (with shrinkage factored in”>, and by 21 months I was practically there. Knowing what I wanted helped me be more diligent about caring for my transitioning hair, and greatly improved my patience in dealing with more frustrating times.
2. Adjust Your Expectations
You won’t wake up 6 months from now with hair like your hair crush or favorite Instagrammer. I used to have a practically covetous relationship with Hey Fran Hey’s hair, and I realized that it was doing me more harm than good. The more I loved and longed for her hair, the more I ended up hating my own. It wasn’t until I began to adjust my expectations for my own hair that it began to flourish.
No, my hair isn’t going to grow 3 inches in a month.
And it most certainly will not be a fuzzy, curly, shiny, halo of ringlets after a year of transitioning. Or at all. Your hair is uniquely your own, and the best thing you can do is spend time getting to intimately know each kink, coil, curl, and wave throughout the transitioning process. Knowing your hair will help you develop more realistic expectations for your tresses.
3. Flex Your Info Filter
Another popular phrase, “all money ain’t good money” most certainly applies here as well. All information isn’t good information — not for you at least.
This is not to discredit the wealth of information that exists online, but rather to encourage you to activate your own filter. Everything you read, and every YouTube video you watch won’t directly translate into something beneficial for you.
A certain blogger may swear by a particular holy grail deep conditioner, but that doesn’t mean it will automatically become a HG product for you too. Don’t feel compelled to run out and slather Monistat on your scalp, or soak your hair in a paste made of garlic and onions just because you read about it online. Approach your transitioning journey with the same level of discernment you do in everyday life.
4. Get Some Sticktoitiveness (and lots of pictures”>
You will get irritated.
Styling will become hard.
You will feel defeated.
You will cut off some hair (probably more than you wanted”> out of sheer frustration.
All of this is normal.
For all of its frustration, many wonder why transitioners even bother coddling along damaged ends. The truth is, the level of commitment varies by individual, but for those who choose to stick it out, the payoff is great. I blow myself away sometimes with comparison pictures:
My hair would not be what it is today without the discipline and sticktoitiveness that kept me on my journey. My primary source of motivation was pictures — of my own hair. Seeing my hair’s progress with my own eyes got me back on track whenever I had fallen off. Seeing my improved hair thickness, and noticing curls and waves were there were bone straight pieces gave me hope, and inspired me to keep going. You’ll need something to hold on to and inspire you when your hair journey runs you low. Why not keep a photo journal (Instagram is a great way to go”>, so you can see your hair at each stage?
Are you stuck in a hair rut?
You know, those times when it seems like your hair has launched a personal attack against you — and despite your best efforts to diplomatic with the best deep conditioners and holiest of holy grail curl definers — it refuses to back down? Maybe you made a mistake (or three, or ten”> and you’re just ready to throw in the towel. Or perhaps, this whole “natural thing” seems too complicated, and you’re ready to go back to what feels simple and familiar — that relaxer or that flat iron.
Trust me, I’ve been there–more times than I want to admit. But before you run to Sally’s and grab those deeply discounted relaxer kits (I can’t be the only one that notices them on clearance everywhere!”> or go digging for your precious flat iron, stop and read this.
Trust me, I’ve been there–more times than I want to admit. But before you run to Sally’s and grab those deeply discounted relaxer kits…
You can get over this hump
I know you can, because I did. In my moments of weakness and peaks of frustration, I had to hunker down and be honest with myself. I’ve never had a relaxer, but I know what it feels like to hide behind a flat iron every two weeks. I know what it feels like to straighten your hair within an inch of its life, and then turn around and use a curling iron to fake “volume” because your hair has thinned terribly.
I also know what it feels like to look in the mirror and hate your hair.
I transitioned for 21 months, a period which tried every bit of my patience, resolve, and self-confidence. There were days that my banana clip and bobby pins would tuck away a multitude of hair sin, and there were days where I looked in the mirror and just said, “I can’t.”
But those days, those feelings, those frustrations–they will all fall away in due time as you learn. It doesn’t mean they won’t be back, but you’ll be better equipped to deal with them as you delve further into your natural hair journey. These 4 tips will help you cope with the temptation of going back to what seems comfortable or easier.
Adjust your expectations
When you first embarked on your natural hair journey, did you think that you were just going to wake up with a head full of thick, juicy, shiny ringlets, or a kinky fro that defies gravity? I’m sure you did, because I did too. I had somehow gotten into my mind that in just a moment’s time, my tresses would magically transform into that of my hair crushes. For the record, it didn’t.
To this day, I have yet to find someone with hair that behaves like mine.
Even while completely natural, I have to stop myself from looking at my hair with a deficit perspective–fixating on what it cannot do and what my limitations are. The truth is, I get the most frustrated with my hair when I try to force it to do the things it is not meant to.
My hair is somewhat thick, but I can’t get a curly halo around my head like some of my favorite YouTubers and Instagrammers. The longer my hair gets, it just hangs. And the more I try to manipulate it to make it big, it fights back with tangles, knots, and breakage. So I stopped, and adjusted my expectations. My curls will never be all one uniform pattern, and I will always have disrespectful shrinkage in the front half of my hair. The moment I embraced those two facts, my frustration dissipated and I came back from the brink.
Give in a little
If your hair is forcing you to test the upper limits of your patience, caving in a little may be just what you need. Sometimes when I got tired of dealing with my hair, I took it as a sign that I should probably flat iron it just to whet my straight hair appetite. This worked for me on two levels: one, it was fun to switch it up. Ask any curly girl — rocking a straight style makes you look like a completely different person. Two, I found that every single time I straightened my hair, I came running back to my curls within a week (or less”>. That alone showed me that in spite of my misgivings and frustrations, I loved my natural hair. Taking a mini vacation from your kinks, curls, and coils may just be the thing that helps keep you from doing something drastic and irreversible.
Note: If and when you decide to flat iron, check out my heat straightening routine and these great heat protectants. After all, when you want your curls to come back, you want them to do so sans heat damage.
Put it away
If you used to relax and flat ironing won’t give you the same satisfaction, or you don’t want to run the risk of heat damage, it is perfectly okay to opt for tucking your hair away. Experiment with protective updos, faux locs, crochet braids, and even those fancy schmancy kinky coily wigs and clip-ins.
Putting your hair away will provide you with some much-needed breathing room, while allowing you to experiment with versatility. This is also an excellent option for ladies who are experiencing major breakage or damage in the process of transitioning to or beginning a natural hair journey. Putting a relaxer or heat on already fragile hair isn’t the best idea, but rocking a protective style is. Just don’t forget to take care of the hair underneath!
Spoil your hair
Every once in a while, I feel like having a spa day. Mineral baths, mud masques, and massages. You know what I’m talking about! After a day at the spa, I feel like I can conquer the world. Or take a really good nap. Whatever the case may be, treating your hair to a spa day may be just the thing you need to bring yourself back from the brink of the relaxer box.
Think about it — when was the last time you pampered your hair? Not followed your regimen just enough to get by, but actually pampered? It’s probably been a while. So treat your hair with that luxurious DIY avocado mask you’ve been putting off. Splurge on that fancy, overpriced deep conditioner that works like a charm. Give yourself a hot oil scalp massage. Detox your hair with a clay mask. Spend 4 hours detangling in tiny sections with your favorite coconut-jojoba-peppermint oil blend while watching Scandal on Netflix. While life is too busy to do this every weekend, there’s nothing wrong with taking some time out every few months to give your hair a treat. Every once in a while, we have to stop cutting corners!
Have you been tempted recently to go back to the relaxer or too-hot flat iron? What helped bring you back from the brink?
The new year is rapidly approaching, so you know what that means–gym membership spikes, more crowded lots at Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods, and an onslaught of resolutions to to live a healthier, more positive life.
I’m rooting for ya, I am!
Getting healthy and focusing on a balanced lifestyle will most certainly bring about numerous benefits, especially for your hair. If you’ve been struggling with dryness, breakage, excessive shedding, or just lackluster tresses in general, it may be time to put the deep conditioner down and take a hard look at what you’ve been doing (or not doing”> to your body, and how it impacts your hair.
So when you’re making your new year’s resolutions, keep these 5 lifestyle changes in mind, because they’ll most certainly put you on the path to a healthy body and healthy hair!
1. Get Active
If you ever needed some extra gym motivation, here it is: regular exercise promotes healthy hair and growth. Between overbearing employers, holiday traffic (well in LA, everyday traffic”>, deadlines, moving and shaking, stress can be at an all-time this time of the year. Amongst other ailments, stress can cause breakage and hair fall — with the body’s natural release of the hormone cortisol. Increased stress and therefore increased cortisol levels contribute to hair loss. One sure-fire way to eliminate stress and regulate/decrease cortisol levels is through cardiovascular exercise 3 or 4 times a week. Exercise also increases serotonin levels in the brain — making you more apt to feel upbeat and happy-go-lucky — and therefore decreasing the release of stress-related hormones that can trigger hair loss. Lastly, exercise improves blood circulation. Good blood circulation is key in transporting vital nutrients that stimulate hair follicles for growth. So while you’re getting your body right for Summer, your hair is getting right too!
2. Eat Better
Eat a healthy meal, and you feel like you can conquer the world (or at least run a few laps”>. Pay a visit to __ [insert your favorite restaurant here], and you probably walk away from the table and right into a food coma. What’s good for the body, is good for the hair. Eating healthy provides your hair with the nutrients and building blocks necessary to crank out the healthiest hair possible. While Roscoe’s may not make the list, here are some foods that are known to give your hair a fighting chance:
- Salmon: Packed with omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin B-12 and iron, salmon supports scalp health. Healthy scalp = healthy hair.
- Dark Greens: Spinach, broccoli, greens, and others contain vitamins A and C, which are critical for sebum production in your hair follicle. Sebum is an oily substance secreted by the follicles and is regarded as your hair’s very own conditioner.
- Beans: Legumes prove themselves to be an awesome source of protein, zinc, biotin and iron, which are all key elements in hair growth.
- Nuts: Walnuts, cashews, pecans, and almonds contain zinc, which is key in preventing hair loss.
- Eggs & Poultry: Protein, protein, protein. Protein is an essential building block for hair.
- Whole Grain: Great sources of zinc, iron, and B vitamins for hair growth.
- Dairy (low-fat”>: Calcium isn’t just for your bones; it’s important for your hair growth too.
3. Stress Less
We briefly touched on the stress-cortisol-hair loss connection a little earlier. Now let’s go a bit deeper. Stress can make you quite literally yank the hairs off your head, but there is also an emotional and physiological component to stress and hair health.
Stress or being overwhelmed for one day isn’t going to cause all of your hair to fall out. What can, however, is long-term behaviors that impact the body’s internal balancing mechanisms. For example, if you are weathering through the loss of a loved one, loss of a job, or a bad breakup, you are more likely to engage in behaviors such as not eating well (or at all”>, or losing sleep.
Your emotional response triggers a physiological imbalance, which manifests itself in hair loss.
Your emotional response triggers a physiological imbalance, which manifests itself in hair loss. No, hating your ex won’t make your hair fall out. But staying up all night lurking on his Instagram feed, seeing who’s pictures he’s commenting on, and hovering over the “send” button on iMessage most certainly can, over the long-term.
Other culprits of increased stress that aren’t emotional but cause physiological imbalance and hair loss include: severe illness or infection, low estrogen levels after child birth, major surgery, strict low-calorie diets, and switching on and off oral contraceptives.
4. Sleep Tight
You know that “conquer the world” feeling you get after a great workout? Combine that with a great night of sleep and you’re unstoppable. Why? Sleep is a restorative, repairative, and rejuvenating process for our bodies. While we’re snoring (or is that just me? #TMI”>, our bodies are in recovery mode — repairing muscles, tissues, and sending growth hormones (HGH”> throughout our system.
The same growth hormones that are responsible for repairing our muscles and tissues are responsible for stimulating our hair growth. Although growth hormones are released in small doses throughout the day, higher concentrations are released at night.
If you are losing sleep (or your sleep pattern is erratic/disrupted by apnea or other causes”>, you’re hurting your hair’s chances to be stimulated to growth internally. In fact, if you aren’t getting proper rest, you may notice that your hair is drier, more brittle, and breakage-prone than normal. So before you switch your sealing products, check your sleeping patterns.
5. Drink Water
One of the keys to shiny, healthy, and strong hair is drinking water. If your hair is dull, brittle, and prone to breakage, think about this — how much water do you consume daily? Chances are, with the barrage of beverage options out there, you’re not getting enough. Your hair shafts are comprised of about 25% water. Let’s do some quick math here… If you’re dehydrated (not drinking enough water”>, you increase your chances of hair breakage by oh… 25%?
I don’t know about you, but I can’t take those chances. So drink up. Some sources say drink 64 ounces a day (approximately 4 “regular” sized bottles”>, while others say drink half, or double your body weight.
My advice? Whatever you currently drink, double it every week or so until you reach an amount that is comfortable for you. Your hair, skin, and insides will thank you.
What lifestyle changes will you be making as we head into 2015? Let me know. Follow me @ManeObjective on Instagram.
On any given day, I look the same.
Wash and go, no makeup, no earrings, and no jewelry — save for my nose ring and anniversary necklace.
I own only a handful of makeup products, and know even less about applying them properly. The extent of my expertise is mascara and a little bronzer (eyeliner too, if I feel adventurous…or like poking myself in the eye”>.
I wasn’t always this way–back in my “straight hair” days, I wore makeup all the time. I felt like I needed makeup to “complete my look” — rather than a means of enhancing my appearance, makeup became my crutch. I didn’t feel attractive, pretty, or ready for the day without it.
When I began dating my current boyfriend Samuel in 2010, I was still pretty into makeup (although I had ditched the bright eye shadows”>. He insisted that I didn’t need the makeup, and that I was beautiful as-is. I only halfway believed him (haha”> at the time, but the real change came when I decided to go natural.
During my transition, I embraced more natural products, and got invested in my health and wellness. In truth, my decision to back away from the makeup had less to do with being “more natural” and more to do with the fact that I was working out regularly and leading a more active lifestyle. Fast forward about two years from my transition, and I’m just as described above.
And this is on one of those more adventurous date nights.
My decision to ditch makeup (and only dabble in a little bit on date night”> almost entirely is a reflection of who I am at this stage in my life. Anybody that knows me knows that I’m all about comfortable. I wear wash and go’s because they’re easy, and I don’t have to worry about my hair should the weather change (but seriously, I’m in LA”> or if I decide to embark on a random adventure.
I own more workout clothes than regular clothes, because I’m active and the clothes are so comfy. I avoid heels like the plague. I don’t wear any makeup because I’ve grown to feel comfortable in my own skin. Besides, if I go missing–I want to help make it a little easier to find me (please laugh, that was a joke”>.
In more recent months, I’ve noticed a trend in the natural hair community.
A lot of ladies love makeup. Bold makeup. I’m talking beat faces like they live at MAC (and some of them do work there!”> or have a personal MUA at their vanity every morning. Now, I’m not here to knock or judge. By all means, do you! But I do have some questions.
Forgive me now if any of this offends you.
I don’t mean to offend, disrespect, or shade anyone. These are just my honest thoughts and feelings, and are in no way the gospel according to NaturallyCurly.
I’ve seen videos from natural hair YouTubers that discuss at length makeup routines — involving concealers, primers, contouring, highlighting, blending, and more — to the point where the person at the end of the video looks absolutely nothing like the person that started it. Many natural hair routine and tutorial videos start out the same way — the vlogger goes from fresh face to camera ready in 10 minutes or less.
Have we ever stopped to wonder why? Are beat faces and bold lips necessary natural hair accessories? I understand loving makeup for fun, or using it as a means to enhance natural beauty and express creativity.
There are ladies like BeatFaceHoney who have taken makeup artistry to new levels, and I applaud them for pursuing their passions. Showing women how to play up their gorgeous features and build confidence is a beautiful thing. But in my opinion, there is a fine line between enhancing your natural beauty and creating a completely unrealistic aesthetic.
We all have blemishes. We all have flaws, and dark spots, and acne scars, and enlarged pores, and dry skin patches, and bags under our eyes from not getting enough rest. However, many of us choose to conceal our imperfections because somehow we’ve gotten the message that those things make us less than beautiful. In truth, I find beauty in not being completely flawless — because it means we’re human.
I’ll admit, there’s a lot of pressure in general for women to roll out of bed looking like Beyonce.
But for women with natural hair that pressure is nearly tenfold. Even with all the online and social media support the natural hair community provides, ladies with natural hair are still in many ways under the gun to use makeup to enhance, complete, and beautify –as if natural hair somehow lessens the aesthetics of attractiveness. I appreciate bloggers and vloggers like Shelli (Hairscapades”>, Ebony Clark (Eclark6″>, and Francheska (Hey Fran Hey”> who share the majority of their content with a bare face or minimal makeup. They make me feel a little less weird for uploading plain-faced selfies, and doing non-camera ready YouTube videos.
This weekend, I wore serious makeup for the first time in over 4 years for a special event.
I’m talking so many shades, tools, and whatchamacallits that I couldn’t even begin to tell you what was on my face. My MUA friend did a wonderful job, and I got so many compliments on my makeup and appearance that day. Some folks even told me that I should do the makeup thing more often.
I respectfully declined.
Don’t get me wrong, my friend did an amazing job on my face. I felt glamorous and beautiful, like a more fabulous version of myself. But something wasn’t quite right. As the day wore on, I started to feel more uncomfortable More unlike myself. More like this version of myself wasn’t true to who I am. After I returned to church from my event, I received more compliments on my beat face. But one compliment stood out in particular. One sweet member said about me, “She’s a beautiful girl anyway, with or without the makeup. But not because of the outside. It’s because of what’s inside…”
Of all the yassssss-es and slays I had heard that day, that compliment meant the most. My value in her eyes, wasn’t determined by the length of my false lashes (which I had ripped off by that point”>, or the magical contouring of my cheekbones. It was my character and spirit that spoke to her. But how many of us truly believe our beauty radiates from within? When was the last time someone told you that your inner-self was gorgeous?
At the end of the day, we have to start asking ourselves some questions that may be difficult to digest. Why do you wear makeup? Do you feel uncomfortable being bare-faced? Why? What imperfections are you masking?
Who told you that you needed to put on that face? Are you using makeup as a crutch? If so, what are you overcompensating for? And the biggest question: are you willing to give it up?
Rocking a bare face with natural hair can be uncomfortable, trust me. It was a process, and still is one. There will be days where you feel unattractive, but let’s be honest — we all have those days anyway. But if you can challenge yourself to go one week without makeup, I wholeheartedly believe you’ll see some major changes in how you see yourself. We gave up relaxers and flat irons in order to embrace what God gave us, and out of refusal to continue to conform to society’s standard of beauty in hair. Imagine what would happen if such a shift occourred in the world of makeup?
How powerful would it be if we could truly embrace our completely natural selves, bare-faced and all?
When we first go natural, we’re all about finding the perfect products to moisturize and define our curls, kinks, and coils. Then, we get a little ingredient-conscious and learn to focus our attention away from the package advertisement, and more on the first 5-6 ingredients after water. And finally, as we become more ingredient-savvy, we become more health-conscious. Natural hair inspires us to live healthier lifestyles, and we begin to get active, and take control over what goes into and onto our bodies–including hair products.
Francheska Medina (Hey Fran Hey”> has been the face of the clean living movement in the natural hair community since 2011. Her videos on everything from her hair regimen, to oil pulling and making your own natural eyelash growth serum have garnered her over 100k YouTube subscribers and clean living devotees. Her healthy lifestyle is something to be admired, absolutely! I’ll get there one day. As I’m transitioning to cleaner eating, I’m making cleaner choices about what I’m putting onto my hair.
What does that mean?
While there is no real definition about clean hair products that exist, there are some general suggestions around what characteristics clean hair products should and should not have:
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Organic/Non-GMO (when possible, especially if it contains soy”>
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Most ingredients if not all should be plant-derived
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Free of harsh chemical additives and formaldehyde-donor preservatives
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Free of artificial colors and/or fragrance (phthalate free”>
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Unique/exotic ingredients are sustainably sourced
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Free of sulfates, silicones, parabens
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No mineral oil or petroleum
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Cruelty-free
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Environmentally friendly
That seems like a tall order of nearly impossible and incredibly expensive proportions. But I promise, you probably have some products that fit the bill in your stash already. Besides, the list above is not concrete, it is only full of suggestions to help you determine what products will be best for your hair. Not every product will meet every bullet point, but that’s okay. The point of clean living isn’t perfection. It’s about making healthier choices, given the circumstances (your budget, product availability, etc.”>. Even the cleanest eaters cheat sometimes.
To help you get started, here are some brands (but I know there are PLENTY more out there”> that offer pretty wholesome products that won’t break your budget.
Bonus: you’ll be able to support a lot of small businesses owned by fellow naturals, too.
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Camille Rose Naturals
If your hair loves luxury, then Camille Rose Naturals will give you a clean fix. The entire line of Camille Rose Natural products is free of silicones, sulfates, petroleum, mineral oil, artificial colors, parabens, harmful preservatives, and other additives. Janell Stephens’ line of luxe goods are handcrafted, vegan, and available in Curlmart or at Target.
My favorites from Camille Rose:
Curl Love Moisture Milk, Curlaide Moisture Butter, Fresh Curl, and the newly re-formulated Curl Maker (my new holy grail”>.
Soultanicals
Full of funky soul and Afro-licious flava, Soultanicals is an all-natural, handcrafted vegan hair, bath, and body brand inspired by self-love, positive affirmation, and celebrating the diversity of natural hair. The entire Soultanicals collection is made from plant-based botanical, vegan, and African-inspired ingredients, and free of artificial preservatives, dyes, fragrance, silicones, sulfates, petroleum, parabens, and mineral oil. Get your soulistic fix at www.soultanicals.com.
My favorites from Soultanicals
Fluffalicious Curl Nutricious, Mango Dip Detangling Slip, and Curl Blaze Hair Glaze.
SheaMoisture
Every naturalista knows SheaMoisture. The most widely commercially available of all the clean product lines, SheaMoisture’s high quality, affordable price points, wide distribution, ethically traded, and sustainably sourced product model is something to be applauded. And they know how to keep a product junkie on her toes — releasing three new product lines in the past three months! Every Shea Moisture product stands by their commitment to be free of sulfates, parabens, phthalates, paraffin, gluten, mineral oil, synthetic fragrances and colors, DEA, and animal testing. Practically all of SheaMoisture’s products are free of silicones (click here for a note on Keravis protein in their Jamaican Black Castor Oil line“>, and crafted with fair trade ingredients. Check for their products at Target, CVS, Ulta, Walgreens, and in Curlmart.
My favorites from SheaMoisture:
Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration Hair Masque, Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Treatment Masque and Leave-In, and African Black Soap Purification Masque.
Eden BodyWorks
If you’re looking for clean, quality products in generous quantities for $10 or less, look no further than Eden BodyWorks. The triple threat (Peppermint Tea Tree, Jojoba Monoi, and Coconut Shea”> brand offers paraben, silicone, sulfate, mineral oil, petroleum, artificial color, paraben, harsh preservative, and cruelty-free shampoos, conditioners, deep conditioners, moisturizers, and stylers. Eden BodyWorks products can be found at Sally Beauty, Wal-Mart, CVS, and online in Curlmart.
My favorites from Eden BodyWorks:
Coconut Shea All-Natural Hair Masque, Coconut Shea All-Natural Cleansing CoWash, Jojoba Monoi All-Natural Deep Conditioner, Coconut Shea All-Natural Leave-In Conditioner, Coconut Shea All-Natural Pudding Souffle.
TreLuxe
A relatively new kid on the block, TreLuxe offers an elevated, luxury experience for natural hair using high quality Active Botanicals and potent plant-based ingredients. The TreLuxe collection of products is free of silicones, sulfates, mineral oil, petroleum, artificial colors, harsh preservatives, and parabens, and features tomato fruit ferment extract. Tomato fruit ferment extract is a bio-fermented enzyme complex that creates long-term conditioning, penetrating moisture, nourishing and strength without buildup. Lastly, through their A Natural Fit initiative, TreLuxe has teamed up with Girls with Sole, Girls on the Run, and Girls in the Game to help promote healthy habits and active living among girls in communities that are at-risk for developing health-related illnesses directly correlated to a lack of physical activity. Check out TreLuxe’s products online at www.discovertreluxe.com.
My favorites from TreLuxe:
Qhemet Biologics
Qhemet Biologics has been a pillar in the natural hair community for quite some time. Focused specifically on meeting the needs of ladies with dry, brittle, kinky and coily hair, Qhemet products are designed to hydrate, moisturize, nourish, and strengthen based on African, Mediterranean, and Ayurvedic hair care traditions. Qhemet Biologics products conform to the notoriously stricter EU and Japanese cosmetic safety standards, and are free of mineral oil, petroleum, sulfates, silicones, phthalates, parabens, formaldehyde donor preservatives, artificial colors and fragrances. Qhemet Biologics is a vegetarian, cruelty-free, and eco-friendly brand. Products are available online at www.qhemetbiologics.com.
My favorites from Qhemet Biologics:
Aethiopika Hydrate & Twist Butter, Burdock Root Butter Cream, Cocoa Tree Detangling Ghee.
Obia Natural Hair
Obia Natural Hair Care was founded by Obia Ewah, a chemist by trade. On the heels of a personal battle with her health, she developed a health-conscious line of products for ladies with natural hair. Everything in the Obia Natural Hair Care line is formulated by Obia herself, utilizing her special skills as a chemist. All of the products are pH balanced, vegan, cruelty and gluten free. Additionally, they are non-toxic, herbal-based, and free from parabens, formaldehyde donor preservatives, phthalates, mineral oil, sulfates, artificial colors, drying alcohols, silicones and petroleum. Obia Natural Hair Care products are available online in Curlmart.
My favorites from Obia Natural Hair Care:
Curl Enhancing Custard, Babassu Deep Conditioner, Coconut Shea Shampoo Bar.
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Of course, there are tons of other brands that offer clean and health-conscious products for all hair textures and types. This is just the beginning.
What are some of your favorite clean natural hair brands and products? Let me know in the comments below!
At some point in our natural hair journey, we’ve all been there. Or maybe you’re there now, and that’s why you’re reading this. Whatever the case may be, nobody likes the feeling of dry, crispy, overworked hair that breaks off into thin wisps at the slightest touch.
But before we get in to a product frenzy, let’s get a few things out of the way. First, a regimen check. If you’re experiencing chronic dryness, ask yourself the following:
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When was the last time you clarified your hair?
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How often are you deep conditioning?
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How are you layering your products after styling?
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How often are you using heat?
The truth is, all three of these things impact how hydrated your hair is, and how soft and smooth it feels in the days following. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo into your regimen every month or so will help give your hair a “clean slate” and enhance the repairative, restorative, and rehydrating properties of your deep conditioner.
Speaking of deep conditioning…
How often is it happening in your regimen? If you are suffering from issues of dehydration, deep conditioning should be happening at least every two weeks, weekly if you can manage it. Deep conditioning restores hydration, improves elasticity, and conditions the hair with oils and emollients to help make it stronger, improve elasticity, balance internal moisture, soften, and smooth the hair. If your deep conditioner isn’t doing all of these things for you, it’s time to find a new one (but that’s for another article at another time”>. After cleansing and deep conditioning comes applying product to your hair. Are you using a leave-in, or just slapping curl definer directly onto your hair? Although many of the gels out right now are non-drying (hallelujah”>, textured hair benefits greatly from having a leave-in product underneath to create a buffer, moisturize, tame frizz, and keep hair soft. What method or acronym you use to style doesn’t matter — making sure you use some sort of leave-in does.
All that Heat
Lastly, before we get to products (I promise, they’re coming”>, how much heat are you using on your hair? Do you diffuse very wash and go within an inch of its life, or frequently sit under a hooded dryer? Are you blow dry blasting the roots and teasing it to the heavens for stretch and volume? Using heat styling tools like blow dryers zaps moisture from the cortex of the hair, period. It doesn’t matter how low or how cool the setting is, that is how blow dryers are designed to work. Heat protectants and moisturizers can help slow the process and prevent complete dehydration, but it is always best to err on the side of minimal heat. I know, air-dried hair isn’t voluminous and sexy. But it is better for your hair.
Once you’ve checked and balanced your regular regimen, or if none of those steps apply to you, it’s time to take a closer look at products, namely your moisturizers.
Not all moisturizers are created equally.
Just because a product is ridiculously expensive doesn’t mean it is going to work, just like a product being “cheap” doesn’t automatically render it ineffective. More than the price tag, to make sure you get the most bang for your moisturizing buck, pay attention to the first 5-6 ingredients after water. Those are the ingredients that will have the most discernible impact on your hair, and will either help or hinder your hydration.
Without further delay, here are my 7 picks for chronically dry hair>>
Qhemet Biologics Amla & Olive Heavy Cream
Heralded as the brand designed for coily, kinky, and dry hair, Qhemet Biologics Amla & Olive is a must-have for any naturalista battling parched tresses. The all-natural, curly girl friendly, super moisturizing cream keeps hair soft and supple for days at a time, thanks to a unique blend of Afro-Indian ayurvedic herbs, aloe, castor oil, olive oil, and MSM. If your hair is a bit on the finer side but still dry, the lighter Burdock Root Butter Cream is a must-have (I am a forever fan”>.
Camille Rose Naturals Curl Love Moisture Milk
This thick, rich, and super dense (and did I mention thick?”> does an excellent job of quenching thirsty tresses of all textures. Formulated with avocado oil, rice bran oil, aloe, castor, and macadamia, this sweet-smelling moisturizer rehydrates, improves elasticity, and restores hair with natural ceramides for protection and cuticle health. For ladies with finer hair strands, Fresh Curl is an excellent option.
Soultanicals Marula Muru Moisture Guru
Specializing in botanical care for afro-textured hair, Soultanicals offers up the Marula Muru Moisture Guru to penetrate, nourish, and moisturize dry and brittle hair. Full of botanical extracts like calendula and nettle, and combined with aloe, olive, marula, and murumuru, this creamy moisturizer intensely hydrates, restores, adds shine, and will keep your hair happy for days at a time. If your strands are dry but easily weighed down, Fluffalicious Curl Nutricious (one of my day 1 HGs”> takes the cake.
As I Am Double Butter Cream
Featuring shea butter, cocoa butter, aloe, and coconut oil, As I Am’s Double Butter Cream intensely lubricates, softens, and penetrates the hair for maximum moisture and softness. In addition to our favorite oils and butters, the Double Butter Cream contains herbs and extracts that help strengthen, stimulate, and rejuvenate tired, dry, and worn out hair.
Kyra’s Shea Medleys Original Butter Cream
If you’re looking for a moistrizer that is more buttery and doubles as a sealant, look no further than Kyra’s Shea Medleys Original Butter Cream. Not only is the warm vanilla (and all natural”> fragrance to die for, it is packed with good for hair and skin ingredients like aloe vera juice, avocado oil, and of course, shea butter. Oh, and while you’re at it – pick up a Rejuvenation Butter Cream with peppermint essential oil and kokum butter for your edges (it smells like mint chocolate and you’ll thank me later”>.
TGIN Butter Cream Daily Moisturizer
The TGIN Butter Cream Daily Moisturizer is a little different from the rest, because beyond hydrating and moisturizing the hair, it provides excellent conditioning. It contains glycerin and fatty alcohols to soften and assist the hair in retaining moisture while feeding it with nutrient-dense shea butter, coconut oil, olive oil, cocoa butter, and more. Butter Cream Daily Moisturizer is TGIN’s number one seller, and many naturalistas swear by it.
Purgasm Shop Wild Cherry Whipped Pomade
If you’re looking for a nutrient-rich moisturizer that can double as a light-hold styler, Purgasm Shop’s Wild Cherry Whipped Pomade is a must-try. It transforms dry, crunchy, and rough-feeling hair to soft, hydrated tresses. Made with aloe vera, marshmallow root, wild cherry bark, shea butter, mango butter, honey and more, this light whipped pomade penetrates, softens, adds shine, and is even rumored to help combat shrinkage.
What is your favorite dry hair quencher? Let me know in the comments below!
Fall is here, fall is here! That means throw away everything you used this summer, and start fresh with a brand new set of products! Just kidding. No really, I am.
Although temperatures are dropping and the air is getting more frigid, that doesn’t mean you need to overcomplicate your regimen and bombard your already-full product stash with more goods. The truth is, to make it through fall, all you need is 5 really good products. Five really good, multi-faceted products.
Your journey to uploading on Instagram probably goes something like this.
- Find best lighting source.
- Wipe camera lens to remove smudges and prints.
- Smile, pose, make a cute face, or look down (we all know you still took the picture”>
- Click.
- Examine, make adjustments, and repeat steps 1-4 approximately 10 more times.
- Scrutinize each picture, deleting those that don’t make your hair look amazing, your smile look perfect, and your skin look flawless.
- Be dissatisfied, delete 9 of 11 pictures and repeat steps 1-4 10 more times.
- Finally find the perfect picture, filter, and upload to Instagram with hashtag…
And here’s where we come in. What started out as an easy way to catch what’s trending on a particular topic across the vast expanse of Twitter has become a useful filter (haha!”> for Instagram photos. Want to see who else has #naturalhair? Search it. Hmm, who else is using that new Camille Rose Naturals Curl Maker? Do they have a review? #CurlMaker it is! The point is, there’s tons of hashtags floating around the ‘gram. Many of them belong to ladies dedicated to featuring the gorgeous diversity of natural hair on what are considered natural hair pages” of Instagram.
In the same vein of being shaded out of mainstream (social”> media pages, these natural hair pages are 100% committed to unifying, uplifting, and and supporting natural hair in every shade, texture, length, style, and state around the world.
If you follow me on Instagram or keep up with me on ManeObjective.com, then you know I live in the wash and go. I switch up my products to keep it interesting, but I’ve got the technique down to a science.
The wash and go gets a bad rep, because the hair is left to curl, coil, kink, and clump freely while being exposed to the elements, and depending upon the length of your hair, being exposed to rubbing against your clothing as well.
By contrast, protective styling involves tucking the hair away into twists, braids and updos that keep the hair from tangling, snagging, and breaking. In protective styling, the ends of the hair are often tucked away, to encourage length retention.
So how is it possible that such an “out” style can be considered protective? Consider the following:
1. Low Manipulation
The wash and go is considered a low manipulation style for two reasons. One, unlike twist-outs, braid-outs, and other styles, the wash and go doesn’t require any tugging pulling, or stretching (unless you’re into that sort of thing”>. You simply wash, deep condition, add product, and keep it moving. Of course, you can plop, diffuse, and add other steps, but at it’s core the wash and go is a relatively simple style to pull off that doesn’t require you to excessively manipulate your hair. The second reason is that when done correctly, wash and go’s can last anywhere from 3 to 10 days. Maintenance (at most”> involves spritzing and applying water-based products and oil to seal the ends of the hair, and protecting it at night. No combing, no re-twisting or braiding at night means that for several days at a time, the hair is left unmanipulated–rendering it protected.
2. Protective Gel Casts
When we think of sealing our hair, typically an oil or butter comes to mind. It rarely occurs to us that gel is a sealant, too. In fact, the gel cast that forms after you apply your product envelopes and clumps your curls locks in moisture and keeps your hair protected. Additionally, the gel cast helps reduce tangling by holding curls together. I know we typically look down upon crunchy curls, but if you’re looking for maximum protection, firmer hold gels will yield the best results. Besides, the gel cast wears off — and you can even scrunch it out with a little oil or butter. Work gel through the hair in sections to ensure full coverage and protection.
3. Clumping Improves Hair Strength
When it comes to withstanding the elements and resisting breakage, clumped curls via wash and go’s are especially beneficial. Clumped curls are stronger than separated strands, and are less prone to breakage and damage. Curls that clump together last longer, so make sure you use the “praying hands” to smooth product through and encourage clumping.
Are you convinced yet? Don’t hide your hair away for fall just yet. Give a wash and go a try, with some of my favorite curl definers:
- Aunt Jackie’s Don’t Shrink Flaxseed Elongating Gel [review here]
- Camille Rose Naturals *new* Curl Maker [review here]
- Obia Natural Hair Curl Enhancing Custard [review here]
- Wonder Curl Curl Control Styling Lotion [review here]
- Kurlee Belle Jelle Coconut Styling Gel
- CURLS Goddess Curls [review here]
- TreLuxe Hi! Definition [review here]
Watch my video for the 7 Secrets to a Fabulous Wash & Go
[do action=”youtube-video” videoid=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iw-HQ5DIt3E”/]And if you need one final piece of information to convince you, check out my growth and length retention progress from my chop in December of 2013 to September 2014:
As a transitioning and natural hair blogger, I love to observe (and sometimes participate in”> the waves and trends that roll through the natural hair community. First, it was all about growth, length retention, and proving that textured hair could be just as fab (if not moreso….but hey, I’m biased”> as straight hair. Now, some of our favorite bloggers and YouTubers are doing second and third chops, and tapered cuts are taking the reins. Coloring natural hair used to be met with the side eye, but now bright and bold colors are everywhere — with only a marginal few claiming that hair dye strips you of the title of naturalista. What used to be a race for the most complicated regimen is now met with “ain’t nobody got time for that” and a supreme side eye. The current trend in minimalist/lazy natural hair care has ladies looking to eliminate the fluff from regimens, focusing only on what’s necessary.
Which brings me to this point: is pre-pooing a necessary step in your wash day regimen? Could that 30 minutes to an hour be better spent, or eliminated to truncate wash day?
The answer isn’t as cut and dry as one would think. The real answer depends on what you’re using to prepoo your hair, whose advice you trust, and what has yielded the best results for your own head of hair. Let’s explore the two most common pre-poo methods, and what folks have to say about them:
Pre-Pooing with Oils
The first popular pre-poo method is done with oil — either a single oil, customized blend, or pre-poo oil like Vatika, Darshana or Ion. Most ladies like to pre-poo with an oil because strands coated in oil glide past each other easier, which results in a less complicated detangling job. Oils are even be used to help prevent shampoos from drying the hair out. But one thing is to be noted — all oils were not created equal. It is widely understood that coconut oil possesses the unique ability penetrate the hair — moisturizing, strengthening, and preventing the hair shaft from swelling during the uptake of water, which helps minimize cuticle damage. According to Jc of The Natural Haven ( a scientist with a passion for natural hair”>, coconut oil should be added to the hair prior to shampooing to reap the most benefits.
On the opposite end of the spectrum, there are those like multicultural stylist Jennifer Rose at Belissimo Hair Spa in NYC who believe a pre-poo is an unnecessary step and a waste of time. Via Instagram, Rose says (on a post encouraging ladies to simmer down on the wash day madness”>:
Why are you dousing your hair in oil which only prevents your shampoo from binding to the dirt, sweat, and product thereby preventing cleansing? You’re the reason you have a wash day instead of a wash hour. Pare down, please.
In a general sense, I can see where Rose is coming from–many oils sit atop the hair and do not readily penetrate the hair. In that case, they do prevent the shampoo from stripping the hair completely clean. However, most natural ladies don’t desire that “squeaky clean” feeling, so the presence of oil on the hair after cleansing isn’t entirely problematic. My advice? Try a wash day with and without oil pre-pooing. Don’t change anything else, the presence or absence of the pre-poo should be the only variable. Does your hair look, feel, or behave any differently? Therein lies your answer.
Pre-Pooing with Conditioner
Many naturals for a variety of reasons have also taken to pre-pooing their hair with a rinse out or deep conditioner prior to cleansing. The idea here is that conditioning the hair prior to manipulating it results in softer, more pliable hair that is easier to detangle and is less likely to encounter breakage. Additionally, many of the conditioners utilized have enough slip to ensure that strands glide past each other without tangling or knotting.
But is pre-pooing with a conditioner more or less effective, or even necessary? Once again, I consulted the work of the fabulous Jc of The Natural Haven. According to her findings here, conditioner adsorbs (sticks to the hair”> and works better after the hair has been shampooed. This is because hair carries a slightly negative charge that is enhanced by shampoo (thanks to anionic surfactants”>. Conditioner carries a positive (cationic”> charge and therefore is more attracted to the hair post-poo. Does this mean that your conditioner-based pre-poo doesn’t work? Not necessarily. I’ve always been a fan of pre-shampoo treatments (Kurlee Belle Banana Nut Avocado Deep Treatment is my favorite”> to detangle, soften, and prep my hair for cleansing. But for most heads of hair, deep conditioning or pre-pooing with a deep conditioner before washing does not remove the need to deep condition afterward. You will still have to deep condition after cleansing to replenish the strands and lie the cuticles flat.
Just like pre-pooing with oil, try pre-pooing with a rinse out or deep conditioner during your wash day, and then again skipping that step. Which yields you the best results? That’s the one you stick with.
When all is said and done, pre-pooing is not an essential step for any hair care regimen. It’s optional. If your hair benefits from it, then continue to do it. But if you’re feeling like it yields you no tangible benefits, throw it out.
At the end of the day, it’s about doing what works best for you and your hair, not incorporating random steps because someone told you so.