Search Results: Christina Patrice

By Christina Patrice · Updated May 28, 2024

When it comes to getting great curl definition that lasts, there are two important factors to consider: your product selection and application technique.

Even though I’m a product junkie with no rehab stint in sight, even I can admit that technique is more important. You can have the best curl defining products at your fingertips, but if you’re not utilizing and applying them properly, you’ll blame the product for the outcome of your style.

There are several methods for applying curl definers to hair, raking, smoothing, praying hands, and more. But there is one method that has been delivering the best results — defined curls from root to tip that are plump, juicy, de-frizzed, and far from stringy ramen noodle style.

Ouidad’s Rake & Shake Method

The Rake & Shake was developed as a technique to define curls, encourage clumping without sacrificing too much in the way of volume. The method guarantees even distribution of product and minimal frizz–and promises perfect curls every time.

I came across the Rake & Shake Method about a year ago while poking around online learning more about Ouidad as a brand and salon. I became curious about the method, but wasn’t quite sold on how successful it would be with my multi-textured, type 3-something curls. The videos I found from Ouidad showed ladies with looser textures (like 2A hair”> getting their Rake & Shake on–but I was hard pressed to find a video of it on more highly textured hair. So I decided to do what I always do when I get curious about the claims a brand, product, or method makes–try it out myself!

The Rake & Shake method is really simple, and involves only a few minor adaptations from how you probably already apply product to your hair for wash and go styling. Really, it’s modified shingling.

What you’ll need

In this video, I styled my wash and go with As I Am Leave-In Conditioner, Sunny Isle Jamaican Black Castor Oil, and Eco Styler Argan Oil Gel — the yellow one. You can use Ouidad styling products to do the Rake & Shake (the consistency and slip of their Tress Effects and Climate Control gels is perfect for raking and shaking”>, or experiment and get the technique down with products you already have at home.

In this video, my hair is freshly co-washed and deep conditioned, and divided into five sections to make things easier. I applied my leave-in and JBCO in the shower, so I’m keeping a spray bottle handy just in case my hair starts to dry.

Remember, the best wash and go’s happen on WET hair! Capturing the curl while it’s still wet will guarantee you a longer lasting result.

Got your products ready? Let’s go!

[prodmod]

How to Rake & Shake

1. Take a generous amount of your curl definer of choice and apply it to the root, then smooth and rake it through the entirety of the larger section. Really work it in so it coats all the strands. Then, take a smaller section within that larger section and move the rest of the hair out of your way.

2. Starting at the root, rake your fingers through your hair. Rake thoroughly 3 or 4 times, so that your hair is evenly clumped between your fingers. This is going to give you more plump clumps of curls.

3. On the last rake, stop just short of letting the hair go. Holding on to the ends, gently shake the hair up and down a few times to set the curl. Make sure that you’re holding the hair in an outward motion, away from your scalp. This ensures that your curls will be defined to the root, but won’t fall flat.

4. Repeat steps 1-3 throughout each section of your hair.

5. Air dry, diffuse, or use a combination of both. I personally prefer to air dry (I  live in LA. it’s still 80 degrees every day”>.

Drying

Took me all of 15 minutes to rake and shake my entire head. Now air drying, that’s another story. Regardless of what product I use, it’s an all day process. As you can see, the results in this video really cosign on the claims that the Ouidad folks make. Rake & Shake has given my curls new life! No more frizzy roots, no more randomly stringy ramen noodle curls. I even found that while letting my curls air dry, I didn’t have to pin them back like I normally would to create that elongation in the front (thanks to the fact that it shrinks considerably more than the back half of my hair”>. For all the ladies like me with multiple textures, this is a total game changer.

Watch my tutorial

A lot of times, we naturalistas get comfortable in our styling boxes based on texture and type. I’m sure many type 3 and 4 ladies have heard of the Rake & Shake, but skipped past it based upon not being able to identify with the hair model in the video. Hopefully my video can help bridge the information gap a little–some techniques and methods can be universally applicable.

Will you be trying the Rake & Shake? 

By Christina Patrice · Published October 10, 2017

Dry, crunchy, crispy hair isn’t cute.

Photo courtesy of @CELMATIQUE

No one in the history of hair has gone on record raving about having luxurious, parched curls. I’m not talking about gel casts from styling products that you can easily scrunch out with a dab of oil or serum–but inherently dry, dehydrated, borderline tumbleweed hair. Summer heat is notorious for parching our curls, here’s how to keep them soft all season.

1. Drink water

If you have chronically dry hair, your products may not be to blame. Do you drink enough water? One of the keys to healthy, soft and strong hair is keep it hydrated. That starts from the inside out. If you have dry hair, ask yourself how much water do I consume daily?  The hair shaft is comprised of about 25% water, so drink up. Your hair, skin, and insides will thank you.

2. Pre-poo

When curly girls start cutting regimen corners, one of the first things to go is the pre-poo. A good pre-poo is essential to soft hair. They are meant to prime the hair for cleansing by softening, strengthening, and easing the detangling process. They also prevent cleansing products from robbing the hair of critical moisture. 

3. Shampoo (instead of co-wash”>

You may be active or outside in the heat more during the summer, and cleansing becomes even more important for a clean hair and scalp. While co-washing is a great alternative to always using shampoo, it doesn’t quite remove all the buildup and eventually, your hair will not respond the same way to the co-wash (due to buildup”>.

Additionally, shampooing makes your conditioner work more effectively. Generally, hair carries a slight negative charge that is enhanced by use of a shampoo with a negative charge. Conditioner has a positive charge, and we all know that opposites attract. The ingredients in regular and deep conditioners are designed to stick to the hair, smoothing the cuticle, and filling in the chipped areas. This functionality and improved softness is enhanced with the use of shampoo.

4. Deeply treat with steam

Steaming the hair gently lifts the cuticle and allows the warm water to penetrate the hair, hydrating it thoroughly. Hydrated hair is soft hair, and soft hair maintains a proper moisture balance provides optimal elasticity. Steam treatments can be done on wash days, mid-week to refresh curls, or while deep conditioning.

Here’s a hack for steaming hair for free (if you don’t have a handheld one”>: let your hair hang loose during your next shower. You may also spritz it with hot water and covering with a plastic cap and sitting under a dryer for indirect heat to enhance your deep conditioner properties. 

5. Deep condition more frequently

Do you deep condition every time you wash your hair? If you don’t, you should try it. It’s the single piece of advice that unites all naturals, regardless of regimen and hair type. Deep conditioning does a curly mane good, in terms of softness and moisture. Depending on your hair type and regimen, you may not need to deep condition every time, but do consider increasing the frequency if your hair starts to feel parched or brittle. 

6. Layer with a leave-in

This article was originally published in June 2014. 

By Christina Patrice · Published September 3, 2016

Read any beauty product label and you will see that they’re all proud to make the statement “free of” and include a laundry list of controversial ingredients. Some of them and their functions may be familiar to curlies in the know – like silicones (occlusive and potential irritant”>, sulfates (drying surfactant”>, mineral oil and petrolatum (occlusive and potential irritant”>, and parabens (potentially toxic and carcenogenic antibacterial agents”>. But there were others, like phthalates and PABA that I wasn’t quite familiar with – so I had to do my homework. Here is a list of 5 less commonly discussed controversial ingredients to look out for when purchasing hair products:

1. DEA

Diethanolamine (can have any variations including Cocamide, Lauryl Sulfate, Lauramide, TEA, and more”>. A chemical used as a wetting agent and pH balancer in shampoos, conditioners, and other cosmetic products. It provides a rich lather in shampoos, and helps maintain the creamy consistency in lotions, conditioners, and creams. DEA in and of itself is not a harmful ingredient, but it has the potential to be. If the product containing DEA (or TEA/triethanolamine”> also contains amino acids (which are the building blocks of proteins”>, in the right conditions and over time, the ingredients can break down and recombine as nitrosamines which are highly carcinogenic. So much in fact that nitrosamines have been listed by the US EPA, US National Toxicology Program Report on Carcinogens, and in California under Prop 65 (which identifies chemicals known to cause cancer and birth defects”>.

2. DMDM Hydantoin

Dimethyl Imidazoldinedione (can have any variation of number combinations around or between the words, is similar in function and concern to Imodiazolidinyl/Diazolidinyl Urea”>. A formaldehyde releasing antimicrobial agent used in hair products and cosmetics to increase shelf life. Because of the formaldehyde that is released in the product preservation process, it is believed to be of moderate to high concern according to the Environmental Working Group Skin Deep Cosmetic Database. DMDM Hydantoin is known to cause eye, skin, and lung irritation (if areated”>, as well as immunotoxicity in humans. DMDM Hydantoin is banned for use in Japan.

3. PABA

Para-Aminobenzoic Acid (can come in many different “aminobenzoic” formulations”>. It functions as a UV absorber, filter, and sunscreen agent. Once a popular ingredient in sunscreen products in the 70’s, it was phased out because it commonly caused allergic dermatitis (skin”> reactions and photosensitivity. In truth, PABA hasn’t been used for years — but cosmetic and hair companies like to use “PABA-free” as a selling point to have consumers believe they are somehow purchasing a superior, more natural, or less harmful product.

4. Phthalates

A chemical group used in hundreds of plastic products (toys, vinyl, food packaging, pharmaceuticals, etc.”> and in hair and skin products including hair sprays, soaps, and shampoos. The most common phthalates used are dibutylphthalate (DBP”>, dimethylphthalate (DMP”>, and diethylphthalate (DEP”>. Phthalates are plasticizers (dispersants”> in products that reduce brittleness/cracking/stiffness in products like nail polish and hair spray, allowing them to form a flexible film. Phthalates are also used as solvents and perfume (fragrance”> fixatives in many hair and cosmetic products. Research has shown phthalates to interfere with reproductive function and hormonal systems (including male infertility and reduced sex hormones”>, as well as cause birth defects. Phthalates have also been noticed to cause proliferation of breast tumor cells, and render certain anti-estrogen treatments less effective against tumors.

5. Fragrance/Parfum

Although this isn’t a specified ingredient (we will learn why soon”>, it does pose some significant health concerns. The primary concern is that there is no full ingredient disclosure when “fragrance” or “parfum” is listed on a hair or cosmetic product. The source, and what the ingredient is comprised of, and at what concentration is unknown to the consumer. This lack of disclosure casts a wide net of health concerns, ranging from skin, respiratory, and eye allergies, to dermatitis and potential reproductive effects. Although artificial fragrances are hard to avoid, being mindful of where they fall in the ingredient list can help determine how much is present. Aim for products where fragrance is low on the list (close to last”> for a better chance at reducing potential irritation and side effects.

If you can’t avoid them…

It may be a downer to realize that some of your favorite hair and beauty products contain these ingredients. Even if you can’t totally avoid products with these ingredients, here are a few tips for safer use:

• Generally speaking, hair products ingredients are listed in order by quantity/concentration. The lower on the list these ingredients are, the less they will contain – thereby reducing your risk.

• If your product does contain these ingredients, be sure to rinse it off well after use.

• If you are using a shampoo or conditioner containing any of these ingredients, cooler water during cleansing and conditioning can help reduce the amount of chemicals that are absorbed into the skin/scalp.

By Christina Patrice · Published February 12, 2016

pictured: Alanna Doherty & Kesia Estwick

Naturally curly girls get a lot of information about miracle hair oils and butters like Shea, Coconut, Argan, Sweet Almond, and more. They are all great oils and butters with unique properties that make them especially valuable to curly hair. But it’s time to expand our horizons. Let’s explore 7 exotic butters and oils that hail from the depths of the Amazon, to Southeast Asia and beyond.

Sapote Oil

photo courtesy of ribeironantonio– Getty Images

Hailing from Mexico and Central America, Sapote oil is a wonder oil of the Mamey sapote tree, great for those that suffer from dry, itchy scalp or conditions such as eczema and dandruff. It is a light, non-greasy, vitamin-rich oil that helps balance sebum production – which can help those with excessively oily, or excessively dry scalps. It helps reduce skin flaking and patches, and the vitamins A, B, C, and E are amazing antioxidants and nutrients that support and aid in scalp health and hair growth.

Ucuuba Butter

Hailing from Central and South America, this dark brown and hard butter is pressed from the seeds of the Ucuuba tree. It is believed to have anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties, making it useful for relieving scalp conditions such as dandruff and eczema. Also rich in essential fatty acids, Ucuuba butter can help prevent hair damage from free-radicals, improve shine and elasticity in hair (leading to less breakage“>, and help keep hair hydrated longer.

Marula Oil

photo courtesy of riaancoetzee — Getty Images

A light and subtly sweet oil made from the seeds of  Marula tree fruit, native to South Africa and Madagascar. It contains powerful antioxidants, nutrients, minerals, and essential fatty acids that help prevent and reverse environmental and UV damage. Marula oil also has anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, and cellular regeneration properties, all of which make the oil ideal for scalp health and hair growth.

Kokum Butter

Used traditionally in India, Kokum butter tends to fly under the radar – but it shouldn’t. Rich in essential fatty acids and non-comodegenic (non pore-clogging”>, Kokum Butter is perfect for stimulating the scalp for healthy hair growth. It helps cell oxygenation, making nutrients more readily available for use by scalp/skin tissues – which helps promote hair growth. It also supports and enhances hair elasticity, helping to ward off breakage.

MuruMuru Butter

photo courtesy of Happy Olive

Native to the Amazon ecosystem, Murumru Butter is extracted from the from the kernel of the fruit that bears the same name. Light and slightly nutty, muru muru butter is rich in omegas that help soften, promote elasticity, shine, and aid in moisture retention of hair. Because it is so thick in nature, Murumuru butter can help control frizz and define curls.

Tamanu Oil

Indigenous to Southeast Asia, the oil of the Tamanu tree is pressed from the kernel of the Tamanu nut. Tamanu Oil is a powerful antimicrobial, antibiotic, and healing agent, with tons of medicinal and haircare uses. It can be used to treat skin and scalp conditions, from burns, to rashes and inflammation, scalp infections, dandruff, psoriasis, eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, and more. It aids in healthy skin regeneration, which is a proven pathway to a healthier scalp, and therefore, healthier hair.

Kukui Nut Oil

photo courtesy of zkruger

Want to shop these butters?

Made especially for naturally curly and coily hair, these products contain the above butters to preserve the hair’s ultimate health and moisture. They are all available in Curlmart (links below”>.

Obia Naturals Twist Whip Butter, $18

Darcy’s Botanicals Tucuma Butter Moisture Whip, $12

CURLS Whipped Cream, $17

Oyin Handmade Whipped Pudding, $13.99

MyHoneyChild Honey Love Pomade, $18.99

Shea Terra Organics Certified Organic Shea Butter, $14

By Christina Patrice · Published July 20, 2015

PHOTO: QUEST FOR THE PERFECT CURL

Pure henna, also called lawsonia inermis, is an all-natural plant native to Africa, Southern Asia, and Australia. It has many uses, including dyeing and conditioning hair simultaneously. The leaves of the plant are crushed and a reddish-brown dye is released using a liquid such as hot water, coffee, or tea.

What does henna do?

1. Thicken Hair, Add Weight: This is because henna molecules bind to the keratin in the hair, creating plumpness of individual strands. Note that this is not permanent, and is not a solution for rapidly thinning, breaking, or otherwise damaged.
2. Awesome Color: 100% natural henna will always stain your hair to some degree. Depending on how long you leave it, the ingredients you mix in, and the natural color of your hair, your color will range from deep orange to burgundy or coffee brown. It is almost like a natural cellophane. The results are long-lasting and fade naturally, and won’t leave your hair looking washed out.
3. Shiny, Strong Hair: Henna always makes my hair shine. I also notice less breakage, which can be attributed to the protein-binding action mentioned previously.

4. Psoriasis Relief: To date, henna has been the ONLY thing to help keep my scalp psoriasis at bay. Even in the cold winter months when things get tricky, my scalp psoriasis isn’t nearly as bad. I don’t know why it works, but if it ain’t broke don’t fix it!

Which henna should you use?

I always advocate for using 100% pure Body Art Quality (BAQ”> Henna. In my opinion not only does it work better, but it will make your life easier. I strongly advise against naturally curly girls using Light Mountain because it is not finely sifted, and contains large granules and twigs. I had the time of my life trying to get that grit and twigs out of my transitioning hair, and had to wash my hair for several days following a henna treatment just to get them out.

Body Art Quality henna on the other hand, is finely sifted and smooth. It has the consistency of baby powder. This makes for easy mixing, easy application, and rinsing out. I personally swear by Jamila BAQ Henna. I have also recently tried Reshma Natural Highlights (this is the only box that is 100% henna, by the way”> and it is the same in terms of consistency, performance, and results.

What should you mix into your henna?

Some henna mixes just call for hot water and a spoon. That basic mix is totally fine, but it can leave your hair feeling a bit straw-like (because it acts like a protein treatment”>. To get the most out of your henna session, try playing around with the following ingredients, according to your hair’s needs.

For moisture, softness & conditioning

• Carrier Oils: I like coconut, olive, safflower, and red palm.

• Conditioner: Make sure it is protein free. I bounce between Aussie Moist and Suave Almond and Shea Butter Conditioner.

• Rhassoul Clay: I like the Purgasm Shop Wild Cherry Treatment Hair Truffle.

• Honey

For shine, pH balancing & porosity correcting

• Aloe Vera Juice or Gel

• Apple Cider Vinegar (raw, unfiltered with mother”>

• Bentonite Clay

For color enhancement

• Coffee (for deeper brown”>

• Lemon Juice (for brightness”>

• Green Tea (for brightness”>

• Paprika (for more red”>

For scalp health

• Tea Tree Oil

• Peppermint Essential Oil

• Rosemary Essential Oil

How to apply henna

For me, the easiest way to apply henna is using my hands (protected by gloves, of course”>. It allows me to get the henna directly on my scalp (for that psoriasis relief”>, as well as work it thoroughly through the hair. Using a color applicator brush is another way to apply it through the hair as well. I’ve even seen applicator bottles (with a wide nozzle of course”> used. It all depends on what you have around, and what would be easiest. Henna should be allowed to sit after mixed for about half an hour to allow the dye to release. After that, applying it to your hair for anywhere from 1 to 8 hours is just fine. The longer you leave it on, the more color you will get out of it. I usually henna at night and sleep with my head (and pillowcases”> covered, and rinse in the morning.

Watch this quick mixing demonstration

1. Start on freshly washed or thoroughly rinsed hair. No sense in henna sticking to product buildup!
2. Always use plastic or wooden containers and utensils. Henna can react with some metals. Although I’ve never seen this happen, I tend to err on the side of caution.
3. Cover everything–the table you mix on, the floor, and any surfaces within 3 feet of where you’ll be applying. It can get messy.
4. Wear gloves. Unless you want orange fingernails.
5. Wear a shirt you don’t mind getting stained.
6. Rinse out your henna using water and a cheap slippery conditioner. It’ll make the removal process a lot easier.

7. Deep condition your hair afterwards, and style as normal.

Have you used henna to brighten or condition your hair? 

This article was published in April 2014 has been updated for grammar and clarity.

By Christina Patrice · Updated May 28, 2024

PICTURED: NAPTURAL85

Let’s face it. At some point, you are more than likely going to stretch or straighten your natural or transitioning hair.

Whether it be a regular part of your wash day routine (like stretching your roots for a super voluminous wash and go”>, blow-drying your hair to prevent tangling during protective styling, prepping for a knock-out bantu knot-out, or even flat ironing for a sleek look, protective measures are always necessary to prevent damage.

This is how to get the most out of your heat stretching without compromising the health of your hair.

Step 1: Heat Protection

Always, always, ALWAYS protect your hair when it comes to manipulating it with heat.

Protecting your hair from dryness, cracked cuticles, breakage, and heat damage starts on wash day. A moisturizing shampoo or cowash, a great deep conditioner, and stellar heat protecting/leave-in products are a must. Making sure hair is properly moisturized and protected will guarantee a better finished product.

These products are all great heat protectants that will help moisturize, strengthen, and prevent heat damage:

• Tresemme Heat Tamer Spray
• ApHogee Keratin and Green Tea Restructurizer Spray
•  ApHogee Curlific Leave-In
• Blow Dry Addict Blow Dry Creme

MORE: Naptural85’s Heatless Blowout 

Step 2: Check The Method

Once you’ve got your product arsenal together, it’s time to discuss methods for heat stretching. There are 4 popular methods for heat stretching to choose from (okay so one of them is a little unconventional, and I totally stumbled upon it on accident one day”>.

Tension Method

The tension method is one of the least damaging ways to go from dripping wet to dry hair. All you need is a blow dryer with a concentrator nozzle. With hair parted into however many sections works for you (I do 5-6″>, apply your protection products of choice. With your hair detangled and smoothed between your fingers, gently stretch it downward. With hair in the stretched state, gently move the concentrator nozzle down the shaft of the hair repeatedly until dry. The downward motion provides a better stretch. Medium or low heat with high speeds are recommended with this method.

Blowdry with Comb/Attachment

This is your regular, run-of-the-mill blow drying session. It has the propensity to cause the most damage, but it is also the most effective if you are looking to get super straight stretched hair. This method involves applying protection product, and either with a wide-tooth comb or comb attachment, moving through the hair with the blow dryer at medium or low heat and high speed. You can use the high setting if you choose, for a straighter look. However, the hotter the blow dryer, the faster it zaps moisture from your hair.

Band/Braid Then Blow Dry

Because blow drying can literally zap the moisture out of the hair, some naturals and transitioners prefer to let their hair air dry partially first. The most effective way to air dry is with the hair completely loose, but this lends itself to massive shrinkage, tangling, and breakage. To ward off those natural hair horrors, banding the hair or putting the hair in loose braids works well. Once hair is about 75% dry, you can then use either the tension or comb/attachment blow drying method to finish the job.

Steamer Blowout

This one I stumbled upon on accident. Way back when I got my Q-Redew, I began using it to refresh, moisturize, and detangle my hair. One random evening, I decided to ditch the conditioner to detangle, and see what 100% steam-only would do to my hair. The end result: a massive blowout that was super moisturized! This is surely the way to go if you are terrified of the blow dryer. There is gentle heat, but the water infuses moisture deep into the strand which prevents drying. Will it give you better results than a blow dryer? Maybe. Will your hair be dry afterward? Absolutely not! Check out my Instagram to peep the blowout picture!

Flat Ironing

*cue horror music* This is the one straightening/stretching method that sends chills throughout the natural hair and transitioning community. After doing so much hard work to get curls healthy, everything could be for naught in one fell swoop. But if you do it right, the results are gorgeous and your curls will revert 100%. You need clean hair (shampoo clean, not cowash clean”> that has been deep condition, and dried via one of the above methods (except steaming”>. Heat protection here is SUPER important! I recommend a heat protectant before blow drying, and a serum before flat ironing. Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Moroccan Sleek Oil Treatment is my favorite flat ironing serum to use. Using a flat iron with a visible temperature gauge (no high, medium, low!”>, make 1 or 2 passes (no more than 2″> over super small sections of hair. It is CRITICAL that hair be 100% dry before flat ironing to prevent bubbling within the shaft. Also, while temperature tolerance varies head-to-head, it is generally a good idea to keep flat iron temperatures below 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, under 380 degrees. Click here for more in-depth information about flat ironing hair.

Step 3: Moisturize and Maintain

Maintaining moisture levels in heat stretched hair can be difficult. Water-based anything will cause immediate reversion. But at the same time, water is the one true moisturizer. Talk about a paradox! One of the best ways to combat this is to regularly moisturize the hair with an oil that is known to penetrate the hair shaft. Easiest, most accessible, and affordable is coconut oil. Applying it sparingly throughout your stretched hair stint will help keep the hair moisturized, and protect the ends which are incredibly prone to drying out.

Other oils that penetrate the hair shaft (although not as effectively as coconut oil”> are: grapeseed oil, argan oil, palm kernel oil, and flaxseed oil. Ucuuba butter is also known to penetrate the hair. At this stage, it is super important to avoid silicone-based serums. They don’t penetrate the hair, and they can have a mild occlusive effect and prevent other moisturizers from getting in as well. Although it may be more expensive, 100% pure oil is best. Cold pressed, virgin, and unrefined is even better.

Follow more of my tips for transitioners and curly girls on my blog, ManeObjective.com & stay in touch with me through my Instagram, @ManeObjective.

This article was originally published in February 2014 and has been updated for grammar and clarity.

By Christina Patrice · Updated May 28, 2024

I remember it like it was yesterday.

My freshman year of high school, I woke up to prepare for school and noticed that there were scaly lesions on my arms and legs. Panicking, I showed my parents.

After a week went by, the scaly patches had spread to my face, back, and scalp — leaving me itchy and humiliated.

Was it eczema? A rash? They told me to put on some vaseline, and they’d monitor the situation. After a week went by, the scaly patches had spread to my face, back, and scalp — leaving me itchy and humiliated.

I mean, could you imagine? Starting your high school career with patches of scaly skin all over you? Needless to say, I have no pictures from my first year of high school. In the meantime, my mom took me to the doctor, who referred me to a dermatologist, who handed down the official diagnosis — psoriasis. 

At the time, I didn’t know what it meant. I just wanted it to hurry up and be over with so I could look normal and stop wearing hoodies, headbands, and long pants in 90 degree weather. I spent the next few months using topical creams like Dovonex and Clobetasol to supplement the twice per week UV light therapy sessions. I remember the one time I cranked the light up too high, and sunburned the hell out of myself. Needless to say, I was in a lot of pain and even more embarrassed when my burnt skin began to crack and peel.

Luckily, those treatments were effective, and I was able to finish high school in a fairly normal fashion. That was almost 15 years ago.

As an adult, I still live every day with psoriasis. I won’t pretend like it doesn’t impact me — because it does. There are times of the year where it’s worse, because the air is colder, the sun isn’t out as much, or because I’m under stress (or had some alcohol”>. I’m able to manage the psoriasis on my body fairly well (although I do wish it wasn’t there”>, but the most challenging place of all is to have it on my scalp.

I’m sure you’ve seen it in some of my pictures, noticed that I wash my hair frequently, or even wondered why I never do protective styles. The truth is, those are adjustments I’ve had to make to my regimen to accommodate living with psoriasis and curly hair. As much as I would love to, I can’t throw my hair in some faux locs or into a braided updo for weeks on end. I have to be able to cleanse my scalp and remove flakes every few days. It just is what it is. I wear wash and go’s because it’s the easiest style to manage when washing your hair twice per week.

I have to be mindful of what products I use in my hair, and avoid those that have skin irritants and synthetic fragrance

I have to be mindful of what products I use in my hair, and avoid those that have skin irritants and synthetic fragrance high up on the list. I don’t often wear high buns and pulled up ponytails, because well honestly, the psoriasis behind my ears is a little off-putting (and kind of embarrassing for me”>.

Most people don’t understand psoriasis, and who can blame them? Most doctors don’t understand psoriasis. Psoriasis is believed to be an auto-immune disease linked to the immune system and genetics, where scales of skin grow at an abnormally fast rate. It is most commonly seen on the elbows, knees, and scalp, although it can occur anywhere on the body. Usually something triggers psoriasis, like stress or a traumatic event. For me personally, I can’t call it trigger-wise. It sort of just happened — but from a genetic standpoint parents and relatives did suffer from other skin disorders, so there’s that. Psoriasis is not contagious, and those diagnosed with it can typically manage it through any number of treatments.

Because there is no cure for psoriasis and how it works isn’t wholly understood, the best sufferers can hope for is to manage it and isolate different triggers that cause flare-ups.

Product recommendations

Here are some of my product recommendations for the scalp specifically:

• Henna: I don’t know why it works, how it works, or even if it’s supposed to work. But I do notice that with regular henna treatments, my scalp has less itching and flaking in the days and weeks following.

• Be Kekoa Scalp Enzyme Spray: Loosens Plaques and soothes itching.

• SheaMoisture African Black Soap Purification Masque: Helps manage flaking.

• Avocado Oil: Loosens plaques and soothes itching/dryness.

• Alaffia African Black Soap: Helps manage flaking.

• Apple Cider Vinegar rinses: Helps manage flaking.

How to care for your hair

1. Hot oil treatments on wash day. Before you wash your hair, let warm oil (like avocado, or grapeseed”> sit on your scalp and hair for at least 30 minutes. This will help loosen the scalp plaques and make them easier to remove during cleansing

2. Avoid scratching roughly with nails. I know, your scalp itches. I understand. But scratching to the point of cracking already traumatized skin is a recipe for painful infection. Oh, and when you do get a little infected lump, chances are it will (at least temporarily”> become a small bald spot.

3. Wash your hair every few days with psoriasis friendly products. Avoid anything with artificial fragrance listed in the top 5-7 ingredients, because it has a high potential to irritate the scalp.

How to live with psoriasis

Here are a few general pieces of advice for living with psoriasis:

1. Seek medical attention. First and foremost. Get a definitive diagnosis from a dermatologist before you move forward with treatments, topical steroids, vitamins, or any homeopathic solutions.
2. Being active helps. It relieves stress, which can exacerbate the condition.
3. Keep stress to a minimum, or try to be as stress-free as possible.
4. Take advantage of the sun whenever possible. Sunlight/UVA exposure has been shown to help slow the growth of skin plaques.
5. Avoid or minimize alcohol consumption. This one sucks, but alcohol dries out the skin and dehydrates the body — both of which can make psoriasis flare-ups worse.
6. Try experimenting with your diet. Eliminating dairy, processed sugars, or even certain types of grain has been shown to help certain sufferers. Everybody is different, so just be open to trying different things.
7. Shea butter is your friend. Not only is it soothing, but as a thick moisturizer it helps create a protective barrier on the skin to avoid drying out easily.
8. Rotate your treatment options. Psoriasis adapts to certain treatments, so be prepared to switch it up every few months or so.

To sum it up

Living with psoriasis is difficult, but with the right tools information, you can most certainly manage it. I’m currently trying out different dietary changes, and incorporating a new supplement into my regimen. I’ll report back on how successful it was over on my blog maneobjective.com.

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How do you manage psoriasis or another skin and scalp condition with curly hair?

By Christina Patrice · Published April 10, 2015

In the curly/kinky hair community, there are two streams of thought – big chop and transitioning.

Effective moisturizing for transitioners can be tricky.

Sometimes the natural texture is more thirsty than the relaxed or straightened ends. If your moisturizer is too heavy, your natural growth feels lovely, but the ends begin looking like wet noodles. On the other hand if your moisturizer is too light, your ends feel perfectly nourished while the natural hair looks parched. And at the same time, all transitioners are worried about preventing breakage at the line of demarcation between newly grown hair and old damaged or relaxed ends.

What’s a transitioner to do?

Check out these moisturizers that are great for transitioning hair of all types. Even the heaviest ones are light enough for transitioning tresses! Added bonus: aside from all the wonderful herbs, extracts, butters, and oils, all of these products are water-based so they are able to hydrate, nourish, and protect all at the same time.

1. Qhemet Biologics Burdock Root Butter Cream

Based in Olive Oil and water infused with haircare herbs like Burdock Root, Nettle and Oatstraw, this thick and creamy moisturizer is perfect for drier textures of newly grown natural hair. The entire Qhemet Biologics line is designed for super dry hair, but this gem in particular is lighter than the famed Alma and Olive Heavy Cream – making it perfect for transitioners trying to balance and moisturize two textures. The herbal infusions help strengthen hair, prevent breakage, impart shine, and improve elasticity – all things transitioners need!

2. SheaMoisture Yucca and Aloe Thickening Growth Milk

A popular brand loved by many, Shea Moisture has tons of natural product offerings for all hair types. Where curly holy grails like the Curl Enhancing Smoothie can be a little too thick or heavy for some transitioners, the Yucca and Aloe Thickening Growth Milk based in shea butter, coconut oil, and mango seed butter is just the right consistency for transitioners with thirsty hair that need nourishment, shine, elasticity, and anti-breakage help.

3. Soultanicals Fluffalicious Curl Nutricious

Fluffalicious Curl Nutricious is a lightweight, fluffy whip that packs a moisturizing punch. Although seemingly less dense than other moisturizers, it packs a nourishing punch thanks to aloe vera juice, rice bran oil, avocado oils, and water infused with botanical extracts like blue malva and calendula that help strengthen, improve elasticity, and impart shine to the hair. Fluffalicious is great for all types of hair, but works especially well for fine natural and transitioning strands that tend to be weighed down by heavier oils and butters.

4. Curls Whipped Cream

Along the same lines as Fluffalicious, Curls Whipped Cream is an incredibly light, whipped cream (hence the name”> that also moisturizes incredibly well. The sweet smelling whip is based in certified organic goodies like aloe vera juice, soybean, coconut, and sunflower oils – all of which help hydrate, nourish, balance, and improve the elasticity of the hair. Whipped cream’s blend of essential oils, extracts, and more make it ideal for any hair type. 

5. TGIN Butter Cream Daily Moisturizer

6. Eden Body Works Coconut Shea Pudding Soufflé

A fan favorite, Eden BodyWorks knows just how to help transitioners get over the moisturizing hump with their all-natural pudding soufflé. Blending coconut oil, shea butter, and aloe vera, this pudding is light, creamy, and works perfectly for moderately dry transitioning and natural hair by moisturizing, lightly sealing, improving elasticity and shine, while helping to balance pH. For thirstier tresses, the Coconut Shea Curl Defining Crème is a great option from the Eden BodyWorks line.

7. Hairitage Hydration Cocoaloe Hair Hydrator Lotion

This super blend of aloe vera gel, olive butter, and coconut oil is perfect for parched tresses and transitioning hair that needs TLC without being weighed down. Anything aloe based is bound to be light, moisturizing, and pH-balancing – and this lotion is no exception!

8. Camille Rose Naturals Fresh Curl

Fresh Curl will nourish any texture of hair, but it works especially well for those with thin/fine strands that need love without weighing transitioning or newly natural hair down. The castor and avocado oil blend is great for moisture, light sealing, and improving elasticity while the hydrolyzed protein gives transitioning hair a boost by locking in to chipped and damaged cuticles.

9. Kurlee Belle Kurl Defining Crème

Shea Butter, coconut, and jojoba oils bring this product to life, making it great for transitioning tresses. It moisturizes effectively, seals lightly, and helps impart shine, improve elasticity, and nourish the hair. It is on the thicker side and ideal for drier hair textures. But it can also be used for finer hair as a styling product to create definition. Talk about 2 for 1!

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By Christina Patrice · Published March 20, 2015

Founded and run by husband and wife team Brian and Rhonda Marshall, Inahsi Naturals is quickly emerging as a serious contender in the natural hair care world. Rhonda is a cosmetic chemist (and science teacher!”> by trade, with the degrees to back it up. She has been whipping up natural hair goodies for herself, her daughter, family, and friends for years, which inspired the creation of Inahsi Naturals. Simply put, Rhonda knows her stuff! All of the formulations for Inahsi Naturals are her own creation, and her husband Brian is instrumental in running the business end of the brand. 

I won’t lie, as a product junkie and avid proponent of supporting small businesses, I couldn’t wait to get my hands on Inahsi Naturals products.

The Inahsi Naturals hair collection consists of three products — the Aloe Hibiscus Leave-In Conditioner, Coconut Avocado Curl Defining Custard, and Moisturizing Hair Whip. The fragrance of all three is “Island Breeze”, and let me just tell you that it smells good enough to eat! The light, sweet, tropical, and slightly fruity aroma makes using these products an even more pleasurable experience. You can get the Inahsi products online at www.inahsi.com.

Since I’m talking about experience here, how about I just dive on in to this review?

Aloe Hibiscus Leave-In

Ingredient List

Distilled Water, Aloe Vera Juice, Coconut Oil, Avocado Oil, Castor Seed Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Panthenol-DL (Pro Vitamin B5″>, Cetyl alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Hibiscus Extract, Nettle Extract, Horsetail Extract, Marshmallow Root Extract, Silver Dihydrogen Citrate, Potassium Sorbate, Natural Fragrances.

Top Ingredient 411:

• Aloe Vera Juice: Acts as a natural conditioning agent that restores the hair’s sheen, luster, and shine. It not only makes the hair soft, but it also enhances strength and suppleness.

• Coconut Oil: Oil high in saturated fats (which is why when cold, it is solid”>. One of the few known oils to penetrate the hair shaft and truly moisturize hair. Coconut oil helps to moisturize, seal, and prevent breakage.

• Castor Seed Oil: Thick, highly viscous oil with antibacterial, antifungal, and humectant properties. It is also a great moisture sealant, and promotes hair thickening and growth.

• Hyaluronic Acid: A gel-like molecule naturally produced within the human body that hydrates the skin and hair, keeping them supple, elastic, plump, and youthful. Hyaluronic Acid applied topically to the hair, scalp, and skin boosts hydration and fights the signs of aging and damage.

• Panthenol: Vitamin B5, known for quick absorption into hair and providing moisture control.

Product Performance

Of all the Inahsi Naturals products, I’m pretty sure that the Aloe Hibiscus Leave-In is my favorite, for a number of reasons. Beyond the fragrance that I’m totally infatuated with, I absolutely love everything about the leave-in–from the consistency and feel, to the performance and how well it plays with other products. The leave-in is very creamy and smooth, but does not feel greasy, or waxy whatsoever. It’s the perfect hydrating foundation for whatever style you’re going for. It’s performs exceptionally well as a leave-in, and had enough slip to work effortlessly through my curls. The leave-in is pretty much foolproof–you can use a little or a lot and still get great results without your hair feeling parched or weighed down with product. I also appreciate how well the leave-in played with the Inahsi Naturals Coconut Avocado Curl Defining Custard, and other curl definers by other brands. A leave-in that works well across a number of products is a must for me!

Moisturizing Hair Whip

Ingredient List

Aloe Vera Juice, Shea Butter , Palm Oil, Mango Butter, Coconut Oil, Avocado Oil, Castor seed Oil, Panthenol-DL (Pro Vitamin B5″>, Hibiscus Extract, Nettle Extract, Horsetail Extract, Glycerin, Palm Stearic Acid, Emulsifying Wax, Citric Acid, Silver Dihydrogen Citrate, Potassium Sorbate, Natural Fragrances.

Top Ingredient 411:

• Aloe Vera Juice: Acts as a natural conditioning agent that restores the hair’s sheen, luster, and shine. It not only makes the hair soft, but it also enhances strength and suppleness.

• Shea Butter: Emollient fat from the nut of the East or West African shea nut tree, used to moisturize and soften hair.

• Palm Oil: Oil high in saturated fats that helps to moisturize, seal, and prevent damage to the hair. Contains the most vitamins A and E, which are antioxidants that help prevent and reverse signs of damage and aging in the hair.

• Mango Butter: Rich in beta carotene, essential fatty acids and vitamins A and E. This ingredient also helps to treat dry skin and protect against future dryness.

• Coconut Oil: Oil high in saturated fats (which is why when cold, it is solid”>. One of the few known oils to penetrate the hair shaft and truly moisturize hair. Coconut oil helps to moisturize, seal, and prevent breakage.

Product Performance

Hair whip is like the answer to my LOC/LCO sealing prayers. I love butters and oils equally when it comes to sealing my hair, but I often opt for oils because their liquidy nature makes it easier for me to not overuse. If I use too much oil or butter in my hair, it will get stringy and gross in a heartbeat. Thanks to Inahsi Naturals Hair whip, I now have a butter that’s light enough for me to use on the entirety of my hair (not just my edges and ends”>, that is lightweight and easy to distribute, and won’t cause the overuse greasies. Because it contains so many nutrient-packed oils, butters, and humectants, a very little bit goes a long way. I’ve been using Hair Whip nightly as a part of my sealing routine for almost a month now, and the jar barely is 1/4 of the way down. Hair Whip provides my hair with softness, and shine, and is a great companion to the Aloe Hibiscus Leave-In, or any other water-based product to moisturize, and lock in hydration.

Coconut Avocado Curl Defining Custard

Ingredient List

Distilled Water, Methylcellulose, Hydrolyzed Oats, Avocado Oil, Coconut Oil, Panthenol-DL (Pro Vitamin B5″>, Citric Acid, Silver Dihydrogen Citrate, Potassium Sorbate, Natural Fragrance.

Top Ingredient 411:

• Methylcellulose: Water-soluble, cellulose derived polymer used as a film forming agent and thickener.

• Hydrolyzed Oats: Carbohydrate and protein rich oats in soluble form, used to give velvety smoothness to hair when applied. It also forms a light film over the hair when it dries.

• Avocado Oil: Moisturizing oil that can penetrate the hair’s cortex and strengthen hair, also aids in cimenting cuticle layers (maintaining hydration”>, and improving elasticity.

• Coconut Oil: Oil high in saturated fats (which is why when cold, it is solid”>. One of the few known oils to penetrate the hair shaft and truly moisturize hair. Coconut oil helps to moisturize, seal, and prevent breakage.

• Panthenol: Vitamin B5, known for quick absorption into hair and providing moisture control.

Product Performance

To be honest, it took a little while for me to work with the Curl Defining Custard. I’m used to generously applying products to my hair, because I want my wash and go curls to last for 3-4 days (at least”>. I went to town with the Curl Defining Custard, and ended up with some slight flaking on my curls when they dried. Rhonda reached out to me, and gave me a little more insight on using the custard (i.e. don’t overuse product, a little goes a long way”>, and then I achieved wash and go greatness! My hair was shiny, defined, soft, and not dried out at all! Unfortunately, the moment I achieved curly perfection, LA got some ridiculous rain. I was only able to rescue my style into an updo of sorts, but you can totally see that the curls were still popping majorly!

My final thoughts

Overall, I really enjoyed my experience with Inahsi Naturals. I’m over the moon with their high quality ingredients, well thought out formulas, and high powered delivery. It’s also wonderful to know that Inahsi Naturals Products are cruelty free, do not contain petroleum, mineral oil, silicones, parabens, or glycols, are non-GMO, and do not contain formaldehyde donor and other harsh preservatives. They’re curly-girl friendly, and work on any texture of hair – from wavy to kinky. And did I mention that the product smell like fulfilled dreams and sweet summer memories?

Will you be giving Inahsi Naturals a try? 

By Christina Patrice · Published March 2, 2015

I know this goes without saying, but sometimes we product junkies get caught up in the thrill of the product chase and neglect our precious tools. But after weeks of getting serious mileage put on them, the tools we use on our textured tresses need a little TLC. Keep them in tip-top shape with these easy to implement tips for cleaning

Electronic tools (Steamer, Flat iron, Blow dryer”>

Electronic tools are trickier to clean, because well, they’re electronics and cannot be submerged in water like combs and brushes can. The best thing to do here is wet a cloth, towel, t-shirt, or microfiber towel, and add a little bit of soap or shampoo to it. Rub your cloth of choice against itself to create a light lather, and begin wiping your tools down. You can follow behind it with another towel that’s damp with water only to wipe up the soap residue and let the tools air-dry. For grooves around things like flat-iron plates and blow dryer buttons that have gunk and product buildup in them, grab a toothpick or remove the protective bulb from one end of a bobby pin and use the tip to trace the shape of the groove. After that, wipe with the damp soapy cloth, and repeat the process until it’s completely clean.

Insider Tip: If you own a steaming tool like the Q-Redew, add a tablespoon of vinegar to the water in the reservoir, and plug it in. Once ready to use, hold the button handle down and allow the water and vinegar mix to come through the holes. The vinegar will help clear up the buildup and mineral deposits that may be impeding the flow of steam.

PHOTO COURTESY OF INDIAN BEAUTY CENTRAL

Combs & Brushes

Cleaning combs and brushes is important to do, and of all tools, they’re the easiest to clean. Combs and brushes can get some serious buildup on them from detangling, parting, curl clumping, and being used to slick edges, ponytails, and buns. To clean your combs and brushes, simply fill a sink or large bowl with warm/hot (not scalding!”> water and immerse your tools. To clean them, you can use dish soap, or even shampoo. You know that shampoo you bought that you thought was going to be great, but actually dried your hair out? Yeah, use that to clean your tools! Once they’re all gussied up, pat them dry with a towel (or paper towels”> and allow them to finish air drying before storing them away.

Insider Tips: For buildup stuck between the teeth of combs, use a nail brush soaked in water and shampoo, and run it briskly up and down the length of the comb teeth, intermittently dunking it in the water to loosen the gunk. To get gunk from your soft bristle brushes, before you clean a comb, use it to work and rake through the bristles, intermittently dunking the brush into the water to loosen buildup.

Styling Tools (Curlformers, Perm Rods, Diffusers”>

Much like combs and brushes, styling tools like flexi rods, perm rods, and Curlformers take a lot of use and abuse from creams, gels, foaming mousses, and more. So naturally, to keep them in tip-top shape, they need to be cleaned from time to time. For perm rods and Curlformers, you can follow the same practice (and even wash them at the same time”> as you would do for combs and brushes. Dunk them, add soap or shampoo, scrub gently (as necessary”>, rinse, pat dry, and allow them to dry completely before storage. Flexi rods are a bit trickier, because of their slightly porous foam material composition, and the button snaps (what are those things? lol”> on each end. There’s ample opportunity for those to become soaked in water and never dry out–rendering them useless. It’s a little more tedious–but wash them like you would your electronic tools. Wipe them down with a cloth containing warm, soapy water. You can rinse them briefly, darting them under the water, and squeeze each rod gently while towel drying. Ensure they are completely dry and there’s no water trapped inside before storage.

Insider Tip: Use your blow dryer (without an attachment”> to expedite the drying process for curling tools.

Scarves, Bonnets, and Satin Pillowcases

Your nighttime hair protection needs to be washed too! Oils, products, (and sometimes drool and sweat #behonest”> end up on our satin pillowcases, bonnets, and satin scarves.  Depending on their origin and materials, there are two different ways to handle cleaning them. If your products are on the cheaper side of life like mine (my satin scarves came from Sally’s, my satin pillowcase from Target”>, throwing them in the washer and dryer with your towels is just fine. I don’t recommend washing them with your clothes, because the product buildup and oils may stain your clothing. However, if you have a nicer, hand-made bonnet, scarf, or pillowcase made of quality materials from EboniCurls or FlorBella Boutique, hand wash it with a gentle detergent or shampoo, and allow it to air-dry on a flat surface to avoid wrinkles.

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When was the last time you cleaned your hair tools?