Search Results: Christina Patrice

By Christina Patrice · Updated December 23, 2024

When it comes to getting a great curl definition that lasts, there are two important factors to consider: your product selection and application technique. One of the hallmarks of the curl definition is wet curls, but maintaining them can be challenging.

Even though I’m a product junkie with no rehab stint in sight, even I can admit that technique is more important. You can have the best curl defining products at your fingertips, but if you’re not utilizing and applying them properly, you’ll blame the product for the outcome of your style.

There are several methods for applying curl definers to hair, raking, smoothing, praying hands, and more. But there is one method that has been delivering the best results — defined curls from root to tip that are plump, juicy, de-frizzed, and far from stringy ramen noodle style. There’s an art to mastering the wet hair look for curls, and we’re going to break down all the techniques and products to help!

Ouidad’s Rake & Shake Method

The Rake & Shake was developed as a technique to define curls and encourage clumping without sacrificing too much in the way of volume. The method guarantees even distribution of product and minimal frizz–and promises perfect curls every time.

Image Source: @curlyyhairboo

I came across the Rake & Shake Method about a year ago while poking around online, learning more about Ouidad as a brand and salon. I became curious about the method but wasn’t quite sold on how successful it would be with my multi-textured, type 3-something curls. The videos I found from Ouidad showed ladies with looser textures (like 2A hair) getting their Rake & Shake on–but I was hard-pressed to find a video of it on more highly textured hair. So, I decided to do what I always do when I get curious about the claims a brand, product, or method makes–try it out myself!

The Rake & Shake method is really simple and involves only a few minor adaptations from how you probably already apply product to your hair for wash and go styling. Really, it’s modified shingling.

How to Make Wet Curls Last

In this video, I styled my wash and go with As I Am Leave-In Conditioner, Sunny Isle Jamaican Black Castor Oil, and Eco Styler Argan Oil Gel — the yellow one. You can use Ouidad styling products to do the Rake & Shake (the consistency and slip of their Tress Effects and Climate Control gels is perfect for raking and shaking), or experiment and get the technique down with products you already have at home.

Remember, the best wash-and-go’s happen on WET hair! Capturing the curl while it’s still wet will guarantee you a longer-lasting result. Got your products ready? Let’s go!

How to Rake & Shake

Image Source: @thecurlsuite

1. Take a generous amount of your curl definer of choice and apply it to the root, then smooth and rake it through the entirety of the larger section. Really work it in so it coats all the strands. Then, take a smaller section within that larger section and move the rest of the hair out of your way.

2. Starting at the root, rake your fingers through your hair. Rake thoroughly 3 or 4 times, so that your hair is evenly clumped between your fingers. This is going to give you more plump clumps of curls.

3. On the last rake, stop just short of letting the hair go. Holding on to the ends, gently shake the hair up and down a few times to set the curl. Make sure that you’re holding the hair in an outward motion, away from your scalp. This ensures that your curls will be defined to the root but won’t fall flat.

4. Repeat steps 1-3 throughout each section of your hair.

5. Air dry, diffuse, or use a combination of both. I personally prefer to air dry (I  live in LA, and it’s still 80 degrees every day).

Drying Wet Curls

Image Source: @itsamandapasceri

Took me all of 15 minutes to rake and shake my entire head. Now, air drying, that’s another story. Regardless of what product I use, it’s an all-day process. As you can see, the results in this video really cosign on the claims that the Ouidad folks make. Rake & Shake has given my curls new life!

No more frizzy roots, no more randomly stringy ramen noodle curls. I even found that while letting my curls air dry, I didn’t have to pin them back like I normally would to create that elongation in the front (thanks to the fact that it shrinks considerably more than the back half of my hair). For all the ladies like me with multiple textures, this is a total game-changer.

Watch These Videos for the Ultimate Wet Curl Look

Image Source: @anniieswrld

A lot of times, we naturalistas get comfortable in our styling boxes based on texture and type. I’m sure many type 3 and 4 ladies have heard of the Rake & Shake, but skipped past it based upon not being able to identify with the hair model in the video. Hopefully, my video can help bridge the information gap a little–some techniques and methods can be universally applicable.

Will you be trying the Rake & Shake? Remember that a great gel is the key to a perfect wet curl look. Check out the Best of The Best Gels 2024.

OUR EDITORS INDEPENDENTLY SELECT ALL PRODUCTS FEATURED ON NATURALLYCURLY. HOWEVER, WE MAY EARN AN AFFILIATE COMMISSION WHEN YOU BUY SOMETHING THROUGH OUR RETAIL LINKS.

By Christina Patrice · Updated November 19, 2024

2. How to Do the Praying Hands Method for Smooth Curls with Less Frizz

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These days, I’m all about getting the most out of my wash and go. Some people chase curl definition for curl’s sake, but I’m more of a curl convenience enthusiast. When I lay on the product, smoothing generous amounts of curl definer from root to end, I’m thinking about getting the most days out of my hair between wash days.

I’ve covered a lot of ground as far as wash and go’s are concerned. I’ve already shared 10 Anti-Frizz Products That Do What They Say, but this time around we are digging a little deeper into the Praying Hands Method.

What is the Praying Hands Method?

Image Source: @naturalisa86

The Praying Hands Method is a curly hair technique for smoothing styling product over curly hair to reduce frizz. Instead of raking the product through your curls, you rub it between your palms, and, using flattened praying hands, smooth the product from root to end. It is not nearly as complicated as it sounds.

Benefits of the Praying Hands Method

I like the Praying Hands Method of applying the product because my curls are smoother and dry, slightly more elongated (which is only temporary). Smoothing products also reduce frizz in curls from root to tip, ensuring that your wash-and-go style will last longer.

There are tons of serums, creams, and oils on the market that can help reduce frizz in curls to help you successfully achieve the praying hands method. A few of our favorites are: OUIDAD Curl Quencher Hydrafusion Intense Curl Cream, SEEN Magic Serum, and As I Am Smoothing Gel. You can put the Praying Hands Method into practice with whatever products work best for your hair.

Refreshing Curls with the Praying Hands Method

When refreshing a wash and go, you really want to avoid disturbing the curls further and creating frizz. For this reason, this method is a great option for re-applying styling product. Lala, aka @ohlala.keriting, uses this method in her refresh routine on days 2 and 3, “the prayer hands application technique helps me to smooth out frizz without breaking up my curls.” First she wets her hair with water and then gently runs her flattened hands over her hair with a refresh spray like Curl Keeper Refresh Hair Styling Spray.

Using the Praying Hands Method on Wavy Hair

Those with looser curl patterns may find that raking styling product through their hair stretches out or breaks up their curls. When this happens, Praying Hands can help encourage curls to clump again and scrunching can help to encourage the hair back into a spiral shape. In this wavy tutorial from Mellis of @melliscurls applies Briogeo Curl Charisma Rice Amino + Avocado Leave-In Defining Crème while her waves are soaking wet before applying a styler with flattened praying hands. 

Is the Praying Hands Method a part of your curl styling routine? There are more curly hair techniques to add to your regime, check out These Essential Stying Methods For Your Texture.

This article has been updated since its original publication in 2017.

OUR EDITORS INDEPENDENTLY SELECT ALL PRODUCTS FEATURED ON NATURALLYCURLY. HOWEVER, WE MAY EARN AN AFFILIATE COMMISSION WHEN YOU BUY SOMETHING THROUGH OUR RETAIL LINKS.

By Christina Patrice · Published February 26, 2024

I joined a new gym recently and am so excited to have finally been reunited with the sauna!

For me, it’s the perfect ending to a workout and a wonderful way to be still, breathe, sit in silence, and think. Truth be told, before recent months, it had been years before I last sat in a sauna. Back then (like seriously, 2009/2010″), I was rocking straight hair, and didn’t pay too much attention one way or another to my hair (except for the obvious concern of sweating out my roots). Fast forward to now, and I’m well into my natural hair journey and rocking a head full of curls.

Because moisture is so important to the health and vitality of our hair, protecting our kinks, coils, curls, and waves from the dry heat of the sauna is a must.

Luckily, these past several weeks have afforded me many opportunities to experiment with different methods of protecting my hair, and now I have some tips to share!

Before Stepping In, Check Your Regimen

I’m all about preventative measures, so whatever I can do to give myself a leg up is a no-brainer. If sauna time is or will be a part of your health and wellness journey, ensure your normal haircare regimen reflects it. What I mean here is to make sure that you’re deep conditioning regularly and sealing in moisture.

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A post shared by Cat🌸 (@cinammoncurls)

Image Source: @cinammoncurls

Deep conditioning restores and helps maintain internal hydration within the hair, while using leave-ins, oils, and creams (LOC method) helps to keep moisture in and form a barrier between your tresses and the dry heat. Making a regular practice of deep conditioning and the LOC method will help prevent your hair from drying out in the long run.

Before You Enter the Sauna

Image Source: @auntiejey

Prior to entering the sauna, you have a few options to help protect your hair. You can rinse your hair and apply a deep conditioner of your choosing, or clip your hair up, and cover it with a plastic cap and beanie, and use your sauna time to double as deep conditioning time. Don’t turn your lip up; plenty of naturalistas have admitted to using saunas and steam rooms to get their deep condition on.

If that’s not quite your cup of tea, you can opt for a simpler method of hydration by lightly wetting your hair with plain water or applying a DIY cocktail spritz (like water + conditioner + oil) to your hair prior to entering. This will help prevent your hair from drying out and keep the sauna from zapping your internal moisture.

After You’re Done

When you come out of the sauna, restoring hydration, moisture, and softness to the hair is important. You can again apply your DIY cocktail spritz or a water-based moisturizer to your hair to re-invigorate and soften. Don’t wait too long after exiting to put moisture back into your hair, or else it will seem like it’s getting progressively drier as time passes. It’s best to rehydrate the hair immediately.

Keep In Mind

Lastly, there are a few miscellaneous tips to keep in mind for optimal protection:

Image Source: @laybaymonet

• Avoid glycerin and other humectants (or at least ensure they’re not within the first 5 ingredients after water) when it comes to spritzes and moisturizers. In dry air conditions, humectants may remove water from the hair’s cortex, exacerbating the problem they are intended to prevent.
• Don’t wear loose hair in the sauna. I tried it once, and I never will again (use me as an example of what not to do). A compact bun (not the big cute fluffy ones that we love) or pinned up twists work best to help the hair hold on to moisture. The less hair that is exposed, the better.
• Covering hair with a satin-lined beanie or even a t-shirt can help delay or defer direct contact with dry heat.

Remember: stay well hydrated before entering the sauna, and don’t stay in there for too long…Happy sauna-ing!

Do you regularly visit the sauna? How do you protect your hair? Share with us in the comments below!

This article was originally published in 2015 and has been updated.

By Christina Patrice · Published August 18, 2023

If your deep conditioning sessions consist of a lot of trial and even more error, then you need these no-fuss dos and don’ts of successful deep conditioning. Learn how to moisturize your curls, and retain that moisture. Should you leave your conditioner on for 30 minutes, or 3 hours? Protein or moisture based? Does a $8 deep conditioner work just as well as a $38 one? Can I use food to deep condition my hair? We have answers to help you get the most out of your deep conditioner.

The Dos of Deep Conditioning

DO Keep it Regular

Hair that is deep conditioned regularly is more manageable, softer, less prone to breakage and frizz, and is able to retain length.

Remember that whatever “regularly” means is determined by you. Some naturals and transitioners deep condition their hair every 3-4 days. Some, every 2 weeks. I personally aim for once a week, twice a week if I’m lucky. My recommendation is to start out weekly – if your hair begins feeling weak and limp, lessen to every two or three weeks. If it still feels dry, pump it up to twice a week.

DO Heat it Up

If you want your deep conditioner to work double duty and make your hair feel super soft and smooth (or super strong if it is protein based), heat it up. According to this article by JC of The Natural Haven, heating your deep conditioner up to 35 degrees Celsius (95 degrees Fahrenheit) increases the amount and effectiveness of adsorption (the good stuff that sticks to the hair) of said conditioner. Long story short, warm conditioner works better.

Try heating your deep conditioner in a hot water bath instead of the microwave for best results.

DO Alternate

One of the keys to healthier hair is a proper protein to moisture balance. Alternating your deep conditioning sessions between moisture and protein will help keep your hair soft, strong, nourished, and minimize breakage, aiding in growth and length retention. For moisture and softness, stick to conditioners that have fatty alcohols like cetyl, stearyl, and cetearyl, plus emollient butters and oils, humectants like glycerin and aloe vera, and ceramides. For strengthening treatments, look for ingredients like hydrolyzed proteins, amino acids, keratin, and henna.

DO Get Steamy

My pre-poo, detangling, and deep conditioning life forever changed when I got my hands on the Q-Redew. Steam is one of the major ways I keep my hair hydrated and give myself a moisture boost during deep conditioning sessions, and for mid-week refreshing. Steam not only heats up conditioner (bounce back to #2), but it also lifts the cuticle gently to allow for better penetration of conditioning ingredients. Steaming hair while covered in deep conditioner also helps improve elasticity, and moisture retention. Even if you don’t have a steamer, you can DIY your own at-home steam treatment when you follow this tutorial.

DO Focus On Your Ends

Have you ever actually read the directions on the back of your jar of deep conditioner? Most of them say to start and concentrate on the ends of your hair first. I know personally, I’m guilty of the exact opposite. However, starting with the ends of your hair is the most beneficial, because your ends are the oldest, driest, and most prone to breakage and splitting. By starting with your ends, you allow them a little more time to soak up and adsorb all of the deep conditioning goodness your product has to offer.

And now, for the don’ts…

Mistakes to avoid when deep conditioning

DON’T Overdo It

Don’t deep condition overnight or for hours on end. The obvious exception to this rule is treatments like henna, that require hours to take to the hair.

But for your everyday run-of-the-mill deep conditioner, it should begin to work instantly, and reach maximum capacity at around the 20 or 30 minute mark. If your deep conditioner doesn’t work after 30 minutes, it’s time to ditch it for one that’s more effective. Also, there is a such thing as over-conditioning the hair that can result in mushy, weak hair that has a more fragile keratin coiling. This is called hygral fatigue.

DON’T Multi-Task

Don’t use your DC to co-wash or as a leave-in conditioner. Deep conditioners are specially formulated to be especially adept at what they do – providing intense conditioning to the hair. And while they may feel nice in the hair, and can in some cases make pretty sweet curl definers, using them to cowash or as leave-ins is generally a no-no. Deep conditioners tend to contain higher concentrations of cationic surfactants (their primary function is to stick to the hair), and will likely lead to even more buildup if used as a cowash or leave-in.

DON’T Blow Your Budget

For the most part, deep conditioner base recipes tend to be the same:

• water
• fatty alcohol (ceteryl, stearyl, cetearyl)
• gentle surfactant (behentrimonium chloride, methosulfate, etc.)
• humectant (glycerin, propylene glycol, honey, sugar, aloe vera, etc.)
• emollients (oils, butters)
• hydrolyzed protein (optional)

The order in which these ingredients appear may differ, as will the concentration and types of ingredients. This does not mean all deep conditioners are the same – these variations in formulation can mean the difference between a holy grail product and a horror. What this does mean, is to be price savvy. Take some time and compare the ingredient lists from your favorite expensive deep conditioners with a few drugstore brands. Often times, you’ll discover the cheaper brand will be just as good, if not better.

DON’T Invite Bacteria

Don’t let your DCs sit in storage long-term. Whether it’s a DIY mix of avocados, greek yogurt, and Hello Hydration, or you stir your two favorite conditioners together, it is never a good idea to keep mixes for longer than a few days.

Refrigeration may buy you a week but no longer — unless it is a henna mix that you can freeze for months. The general idea here is that all store-bought conditioners are formulated with a certain concentration of antimicrobials and preservatives that keep them from molding on the shelves. Home DIY mixes have no preservatives, unless you just happen to keep food grade preservatives on hand (essential oils only last so long). To keep the mold away from your mane, only mix enough deep conditioner for a single use every time, and use clean kitchen utensils to mix and stir.

DON’T Be Fooled

Don’t be fooled by marketing gimmicks and pixie dust. As you may know, only the first 5 ingredients after water (with a few exceptions) have the most impact on your hair.

Given point #3 about most deep conditioner bases being similar, spending tons of cash may not be the wisest thing. Add to that, not falling for marketing gimmicks and pixie dust. There are tons of products that will showcase exotic ingredients and extracts emblazoned across the label, but when you turn that label over, said ingredient is 32nd on the list right before the preservatives. Unless the miracle ingredient you’re looking for is in the top 6 (top 10 to stretch) ingredients, you’re setting yourself up to become a victim of a marketing ploy. If it is an oil or butter you’re after (like coconut, jojoba, olive, macadamia, or sweet almond), you might be better off buying a cheapie conditioner and adding said oil in pure form yourself.

This article was originally published in 2014 and has been updated for grammar and clarity.

By Christina Patrice · Published March 20, 2022

Natural hair products can get expensive. With all the botanical extracts, rare herbs, and essential oils, sometimes the price point is justified. But sometimes, our budgets get a little tight. Or we don’t have the time to go anywhere else but a local grocery store. And online ordering is simply out of the question. In spite of all that, it is still possible to get a great conditioner without breaking the bank. Check out this list of 5 conditioners that won’t hit your wallet where it hurts!

Suave Professionals Almond & Shea Butter Conditioner

Price: $3.99 for 28 fl oz

A personal favorite, this conditioner not only packs an intense moisturizing punch, but it has tons of slip – making it incredibly versatile. It can be used as a pre-shampoo treatment, to detangle hair, to co-wash, and of course, condition! The sweet almond oil and shea butter (which are both very high on the ingredient list”> help soften and nourish the hair, while the aloe vera juice helps the hair cuticle to lay down – improving moisture retention, strength, and shine. Oh, and did I mention the 28oz bottle is still under $4?

Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Conditioner

Price: $3.99 for 11.7 fl oz

When I first began transitioning, I looked up the best conditioners for natural hair. Undoubtedly, this product was on everyone’s hot list. It smells great, has tons of slip, and is perfect for all types of hair. It provides moisture without weighing the hair down, making it a great co-wash and conditioning product. The purple orchid extract soothes scalp and conditions the hair, while the coconut oil helps to nourish, moisturize, and prevent protein loss during washing.

Trader Joe’s Tea Tree Tingle Conditioner

Price: $3.99 for 16 fl oz

Another hot-list conditioner, loved by many and popularized by YouTube’s Naptural85 and the famous Curly Nikki. After seeing her use this conditioner in tons of videos, I was convinced it would work miracles for me – and it did. Ringing in at $3.99 for a 16oz bottle, you can definitely purchase a long-term supply without feeling the pinch. Packed with certified organic extracts and essential oils, it is a perfect option for ingredient-conscious naturals seeking to condition or co-wash without all the ingredient fuss. If you don’t have a Trader Joe’s in your area you can buy this online from other retailers, but it won’t come with the under-$5 price tag. 

Tresemme Curl Hydrate Conditioner

Price: $3.89 for 10 fl oz

Tresemme Naturals was an OG beloved line by naturals popularized by the likes of vloggers Jess of Mahogany Curls and Kala of The KG Lifestyle. When it was discontinued back in 2016 it got replaced with Tresemme Botanique – which is highly rated by curlies, but at $5.99 it’s been priced off of this list. This Tresemme Flawless Curls conditioner on the other hand comes in under $5 and packs a moisturizing punch. A note for any Curly Girl Method followers, this one does contain Dimethicone and Adimethicone, but the Tresemme Botanique Coconut Nourish Conditioner for $5.99 is CG-friendly.

Aussie Moist Conditioner 

Price: $2.99 for 12.1 fl oz

Aussie Moist will always hold a place near and dear to my heart. Seriously, Aussie helped me manage my transitioning tresses for at least 9 months consistently. I used this conditioner to pre-poo, detangle, co-wash, and even to deep condition (with a little added help from some coconut oil”>. I also like that it comes in two sizes – regular and gargantuan. Perfect for on-the-go and at home.

What are your favorite cheapie conditioners? Let us know!

By Christina Patrice · Published August 24, 2018

There is no turning back time when it comes to the severe, gradual heat damage that happens after too much heat use, at too-high temperatures, with too few heat protectants. But what about that one time you might have just made one too many passes over your hair? Or maybe you know you did everything right, but you’re just nervous about the possibility of your curls and coils not bouncing back quite the same way.

But don’t worry, all hope is not lost on your short-term straightened hair. Try taking these six steps to rehabilitate your curls after a heat binge. You don’t have to do all six at once, feel free to pick and choose which ones may work for you!

1. Cleanse with Shampoo

As much as we love our co-washes and conditioners, the first wash going back to your waves, curls, and coils after straightening should always involve a shampoo. You can still avoid a sulfate shampoo to make sure you treat your curls gently, but the key here is that you will need a deep cleansing. Try the Bounce Curl Pure Silk Moisturizing Shampoo, which won a 2018 NaturallyCurly Editor’s Choice award for being an effective clarifying shampoo while still leaving your strands with some hydration!

Shampoo is important for a first wash for two major reasons:

One–buildup removal. If you’ve ever had that semi-frightening moment where you first rinse your straightened hair and it doesn’t immediately revert, you’ll understand why shampoo is necessary. Most heat protectants and anti-frizz products have silicones and other occlusives that work to keep moisture out of the hair. Many oils and butters act in the same fashion, hence their propensity to seal the hair. Using a shampoo helps lift the moisture-blocking product buildup, so that the water can penetrate the hair and help restore the original texture.

Two–since shampoo has a negative charge (anionic”>, it binds all of the positively charged (cationic”> buildup to itself, removing it from your hair, which also has a negative charge. Since the hair is stripped, the next positively charged conditioner you place on your hair will be more effective than if you had not used shampoo to cleanse. 

2. Use a Reconstructor

Heat straightening, combing, and just general wear and tear can cause cuticle damage to the hair. An intensive protein treatment (reconstructor”> will help patch up those chips, cracks, and breaks in the cuticle of the hair temporarily. At some level, heat straightening (especially if you cranked the heat up a little too much”> can alter the structure of the proteins in the hair, and a reconstructor has the potential to help them bounce back to normal – which in turn encourages your old texture return.

Looking for a good reconstructor? Try:

• ApHogee 2 Step Protein Treatment
• ApHogee Intensive 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor
• She Scent It Okra Reconstructor
• Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus Protein Deep Conditioning Treatment
• Komaza Care Protein Hair Strengthener

3. Deep Condition

Moisture is an integral step in getting your hair to return to normal. And of course, this step will work better if it follows a good cleanse. When hair is blow dried and flat ironed, moisture leaves the hair. And after slathering hair with products to keep frizz at bay, natural hair begins craving moisture. Restoring moisture balance to the hair with a super nourishing and penetrating deep conditioner will put parched strands back on the right track. Although most deep conditioners are designed to reach maximum effectiveness in 30 minutes or less, I recommend that after a flat-iron driven draught, an hour or more is perfectly fine. Just don’t deep condition overnight to avoid hygral fatigue.

Looking for a good deep conditioner? Try:

• tgin Honey Miracle Mask
• Camille Rose Naturals Algae Renew Deep Conditioner
• Curl Ecstasy Hair Tea
• DevaCurl Heaven In Hair
• Giovanni 2Chic Avocado & Olive Oil Ultra-Moist Deep Deep Moisture Hair Mask

4. Do a Hot Oil Treatment

If your hair still isn’t feeling or looking quite up to par, a hot oil treatment may help get things back in order. Nourishing the hair with a warm concoction of oils can help restore shine and elasticity, enhance smoothness, penetrate the hair, nourish the scalp, and more. A hot oil treatment can penetrate the hair, moisturizing and nourishing on the inside and out. Different oils can boost the effectiveness of your curl, coil, and kink loving concoction.

• Place the oils inside of a plastic applicator bottle (which can be purchased at a local beauty supply store”>
• Melt them together in a hot water bath (don’t microwave them”>
• Apply to hair and scalp
• Cover hair in a plastic cap or saran wrap.
• You can sit under a dryer with the oil, or use a satin scarf or bonnet to help keep your head-generated heat in.

5. Use the Greenhouse Effect

If your hair still isn’t responding like you had hoped, the greenhouse effect may help. A spinoff of sorts of the hot oil treatment, greenhousing involves trapping hair in an ultra-moisturizing environment to aid in absorbing as much moisture as possible. This can be achieved at simplest, by covering damp hair with a plastic cap and scarf.

You can add to the greenhouse effect by incorporating a little bit of butter, oil, or conditioner of your choice to the damp hair, or by steaming your hair with a handheld or tabletop steamer. You can greenhouse your hair for as little as 30 minutes, or as much as overnight. Since the hair is not soaking wet, it is at less risk for hygral fatigue, over-conditioning, and becoming limp and mushy.

6. Last Resort: Cut/Trim

If you’ve done everything you possibly can and your texture just won’t come back, a trim or cut may be in order. Since the ends of the hair are the oldest, it is likely that most of the damage to heat straightened hair is concentrated at the ends. Luckily, that can be resolved with a quick or gradual trimming away. More severe heat damage will require more cutting.

Ultimately, severe heat damage cannot be undone. If you are at this point, determine what method will work best for growing out more healthy hair and getting rid of what is damaged – either with a major or big chop, or long term transitioning.

This article was originally published in 2015 and was updated in 2018 to reflect new recommendations.

By Christina Patrice · Published May 11, 2018

I’m more product junkie than DIY mixtress, but every so often I copycat or stumble upon a DIY recipe that makes me think I could launch the next big natural hair product line.

Maybe I’m exaggerating a little. Maybe.

But this DIY clay mask has forever changed my regimen. It hydrates, moisturizes, de-frizzes, softens, and banishes dryness, while encouraging curl clumping and shine. Any problems you’re having with your hair, this mask can probably solve.  I’ve been doing it on a twice a week basis as a part of my Max Hydration Method experiment (although you can do it as infrequently as you like”>, and my hair has never looked better. My frizzy, unruly patches are history, and my rough, dry, tangly ends have practically vanished. For the ladies that are curious, my personal recipe deviates from that of the Max Hydration Method, swapping out ingredients and adding others. You can feel free to do the same.

This DIY clay mask has forever changed my regimen.

The Ingredients

For my Bentonite Clay Mask recipe, I selected the following ingredients based upon what they can do for my hair:

Bentonite Clay

Incredibly powerful, possessing a negative charge (anionic”>. This makes it an ideal clay for cleansing and detoxifying, as it has the ability to remove positively charged (cationic”> conditioners and products that can build up on the hair and scalp. It is also said to have the ability to draw out toxins, heavy metals, chemicals, and impurities. It helps cleanse and lift impurities from the hair, aiding in conditioning, shine, softness, and definition.

Apple Cider Vinegar

Serves as an antimicrobial agent (warding off infection”>, and helps ease the itching and flakiness associated with scalp conditions such as dandruff, psoriasis, and seborrheic dermatitis. ACV is also able to improve the shininess of hair and increase moisture retention by causing cuticles to lay flat via pH balancing the hair. Through this same mechanism, it is also believe that Apple Cider Vinegar can correct hair porosity issues.

Water

The ultimate hydrator and curly hair problem solver.

Coconut Oil

Oil with a high saturated fat content, rich in vitamins and nutrients beneficial to the hair. Due to its low molecular weight, coconut is one of the few oils proven to actually penetrate the hair shaft. It protects and coats the hair, and prevents protein loss.

Castor Oil

Has antibacterial and antifungal properties, so it will help with dandruff and other scalp ailments. It is also a great moisture sealant, and promotes hair thickening and growth.Castor oil also acts as a humectant, drawing in moisture to the hair for total hydration.

Sweet Almond Oil

Oil that locks moisture into the hair while nourishing, smoothing cuticles, controlling shedding, and boosting shine. It is rich in omegas 6 and 9, which help ciment the cuticle, reduce moisture loss, and improve elasticity. 

Now that you’re familiar with the benefits of each ingredient, let’s get on with the recipe. Warning: it’s dangerously easy.

What You’ll Need:

• a plastic or glass bowl

• a plastic, wooden, or rubber stirring utensil

• 1/2 cup (or 4oz”> of bentonite cay (I use the Indian Healing Clay”>

• 1 tablespoon of coconut oil

• 1 tablespoon of castor oil

• 1 tablespoon of sweet almond oil

• 6 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar (unfiltered, with mother”>

• 3 tablespoons of water

Directions

1. Add the clay first, then the oils, in your mixing bowl. You can begin stirring if you like, or leave it all until the very end (I prefer to stir after everything is all in”>. Next, add your 6 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar. Allow it to aerate and foam for 10-15 seconds before adding in the water. The reaction between the clay and apple cider vinegar is essential to avoiding a lumpy mix. After the mixture has foamed for a few seconds, add your 3 tablespoons of water. 
2. Stir everything together vigorously, until you have a smooth, minimally lumpy mixture that is roughly the consistency of Greek yogurt.
3. Apply the mask to clean, damp or wet hair from root to end. To ensure even coverage, work in small sections. If your hair begins to dry while applying the mask, keep a spray bottle nearby to spritz and keep the hair damp, but not dripping wet. After you’ve completely coated your hair with the mask, cover it with a plastic cap, saran wrap, or plastic bag for 20-30 minutes. You can use a hooded dryer or steamer for extra penetration, or just let the heat from your head do all the work.

After your mask

When you’re ready to rinse, I highly recommend hopping in the shower. It will be incredibly difficult to get the clay out under the power of a sink faucet alone. Trust me, you don’t want leftover clay in your curls. You’ll look like you lost a fight with a bag of flour when it dries.

Once the clay is 80-90% rinsed out, follow up with a conditioner of choice. It doesn’t have to be a deep conditioner, your favorite, regular, cheapie conditioner will do. My personal pick is Tresemme Naturals Nourishing Moisture Conditioner. Rake it through your hair from ends to root, and let it sit for about 5 minutes then rinse.

Your end result will be hydrated, ultra-moisturized, soft, frizz-free, uber-defined hair.

Yasssssss. #slayednaturalhair

By Christina Patrice · Published March 20, 2018

I remember the first time I saw the word “co wash” on a blog. The concept didn’t make sense to me, and I couldn’t quite understand why everyone was hopping on the anti-shampoo bandwagon with this one. Then, I ran out and bought a lifetime supply of Aussie Moist because Kala of The KG Lifestyle recommended it. My life was never the same after that.

Conditioner Wash(ing”>–

What does co-wash mean?

Using conditioner or a conditioner-like cream based product to cleanse the hair, as an alternative to shampoo. Also known as co-wash, cowash, co wash, and c/w.

Used in a sentence

“I typically co-wash my hair twice a week, and then use a shampoo to clarify at the end of the month.”

How Co-Washing Affects Your Hair

The co-wash movement has picked up steam in recent years, especially for curlies who want to clean their without leaving it stripped. Conditioner has gentle surfactants that will lift light build-up, dirt, and oils from the hair while avoiding stripping it dry, The result is gently cleansed hair that is soft, smooth, and moisturized.

How Often Should You Co-wash?

Some prefer co-washing every single wash and not to touch shampoo at all; others will co-wash once a week and use regular shampoo the next. Some may only use regular shampoo once a month. It really depends on your own hair’s specific needs. Remember, everyone’s hair is different find what works best for you and stick to that.

Some curlies prefer to use a regular conditioner or an actual co-wash product, either work. Here are the best conditioners and co-washes to try on your next wash day.

As I Am Coconut CoWash

“This is a holy grail and for good reason, or a few.”This is an amazing cowash, affordable, yummy-smelling, and it makes my hair happy and hydrated. I use it once a week and alternate with sulfate-free shampoo, I have hair that’s between wavy and curly.”

Mielle Organics Detangling Co-Wash

“I took a chance with this cowash only because I have had amazing results with many of the other products from Mielle Organics. I also have had difficulty finding a proper cowash for my hair because they all make my hair feel dry. I bought this last weekend and used it for my wash day. I was laughing and Ooh’ing and Aah’ing the whole entire time. I expected that once I rinsed it out, I would feel disappointment but N O P E! My hair felt soft, it was shiny, my curls were popping, and it was detangled without the use of a comb or Denman brush. Love love love! Highly recommend it.”

DevaCurl No Poo

“Great cleanser–really cleans hair without weighing down my roots like a regular cowash.”

Briogeo Be Gentle, Be Kind Avocado + Quinoa Co-Wash

“I loved this Co wash! 16oz is a lot of product to commit to so I’m glad this worked for my 4C hair. I like the smell and thick texture, I was able to cleanse my scalp between shampoos, and your hair is so smooth after rinsing!”

Eden Bodyworks Coconut Shea Cleansing Cowash

“This co-wash is amazing! I have terrible scalp eczema that gets irritated if I have buildup on my scalp. Before I started using this co-wash I had to shampoo my scalp often which lead to very dry curls. I tried co-washing with other conditioners and co-washes, but they all never fully cleansed my hair which lead to more buildup and never detangled my hair.This co-wash solved all of my problems from scalp eczema to having enough product to last me for weeks. “

This article was originally published in 2014 and has been updated for clarity.

By Christina Patrice · Published September 3, 2016

Read any beauty product label and you will see that they’re all proud to make the statement “free of” and include a laundry list of controversial ingredients. Some of them and their functions may be familiar to curlies in the know – like silicones (occlusive and potential irritant”>, sulfates (drying surfactant”>, mineral oil and petrolatum (occlusive and potential irritant”>, and parabens (potentially toxic and carcenogenic antibacterial agents”>. But there were others, like phthalates and PABA that I wasn’t quite familiar with – so I had to do my homework. Here is a list of 5 less commonly discussed controversial ingredients to look out for when purchasing hair products:

1. DEA

Diethanolamine (can have any variations including Cocamide, Lauryl Sulfate, Lauramide, TEA, and more”>. A chemical used as a wetting agent and pH balancer in shampoos, conditioners, and other cosmetic products. It provides a rich lather in shampoos, and helps maintain the creamy consistency in lotions, conditioners, and creams. DEA in and of itself is not a harmful ingredient, but it has the potential to be. If the product containing DEA (or TEA/triethanolamine”> also contains amino acids (which are the building blocks of proteins”>, in the right conditions and over time, the ingredients can break down and recombine as nitrosamines which are highly carcinogenic. So much in fact that nitrosamines have been listed by the US EPA, US National Toxicology Program Report on Carcinogens, and in California under Prop 65 (which identifies chemicals known to cause cancer and birth defects”>.

2. DMDM Hydantoin

Dimethyl Imidazoldinedione (can have any variation of number combinations around or between the words, is similar in function and concern to Imodiazolidinyl/Diazolidinyl Urea”>. A formaldehyde releasing antimicrobial agent used in hair products and cosmetics to increase shelf life. Because of the formaldehyde that is released in the product preservation process, it is believed to be of moderate to high concern according to the Environmental Working Group Skin Deep Cosmetic Database. DMDM Hydantoin is known to cause eye, skin, and lung irritation (if areated”>, as well as immunotoxicity in humans. DMDM Hydantoin is banned for use in Japan.

3. PABA

Para-Aminobenzoic Acid (can come in many different “aminobenzoic” formulations”>. It functions as a UV absorber, filter, and sunscreen agent. Once a popular ingredient in sunscreen products in the 70’s, it was phased out because it commonly caused allergic dermatitis (skin”> reactions and photosensitivity. In truth, PABA hasn’t been used for years — but cosmetic and hair companies like to use “PABA-free” as a selling point to have consumers believe they are somehow purchasing a superior, more natural, or less harmful product.

4. Phthalates

A chemical group used in hundreds of plastic products (toys, vinyl, food packaging, pharmaceuticals, etc.”> and in hair and skin products including hair sprays, soaps, and shampoos. The most common phthalates used are dibutylphthalate (DBP”>, dimethylphthalate (DMP”>, and diethylphthalate (DEP”>. Phthalates are plasticizers (dispersants”> in products that reduce brittleness/cracking/stiffness in products like nail polish and hair spray, allowing them to form a flexible film. Phthalates are also used as solvents and perfume (fragrance”> fixatives in many hair and cosmetic products. Research has shown phthalates to interfere with reproductive function and hormonal systems (including male infertility and reduced sex hormones”>, as well as cause birth defects. Phthalates have also been noticed to cause proliferation of breast tumor cells, and render certain anti-estrogen treatments less effective against tumors.

5. Fragrance/Parfum

Although this isn’t a specified ingredient (we will learn why soon”>, it does pose some significant health concerns. The primary concern is that there is no full ingredient disclosure when “fragrance” or “parfum” is listed on a hair or cosmetic product. The source, and what the ingredient is comprised of, and at what concentration is unknown to the consumer. This lack of disclosure casts a wide net of health concerns, ranging from skin, respiratory, and eye allergies, to dermatitis and potential reproductive effects. Although artificial fragrances are hard to avoid, being mindful of where they fall in the ingredient list can help determine how much is present. Aim for products where fragrance is low on the list (close to last”> for a better chance at reducing potential irritation and side effects.

If you can’t avoid them…

It may be a downer to realize that some of your favorite hair and beauty products contain these ingredients. Even if you can’t totally avoid products with these ingredients, here are a few tips for safer use:

• Generally speaking, hair products ingredients are listed in order by quantity/concentration. The lower on the list these ingredients are, the less they will contain – thereby reducing your risk.

• If your product does contain these ingredients, be sure to rinse it off well after use.

• If you are using a shampoo or conditioner containing any of these ingredients, cooler water during cleansing and conditioning can help reduce the amount of chemicals that are absorbed into the skin/scalp.

By Christina Patrice · Published February 12, 2016

pictured: Alanna Doherty & Kesia Estwick

Naturally curly girls get a lot of information about miracle hair oils and butters like Shea, Coconut, Argan, Sweet Almond, and more. They are all great oils and butters with unique properties that make them especially valuable to curly hair. But it’s time to expand our horizons. Let’s explore 7 exotic butters and oils that hail from the depths of the Amazon, to Southeast Asia and beyond.

Sapote Oil

photo courtesy of ribeironantonio– Getty Images

Hailing from Mexico and Central America, Sapote oil is a wonder oil of the Mamey sapote tree, great for those that suffer from dry, itchy scalp or conditions such as eczema and dandruff. It is a light, non-greasy, vitamin-rich oil that helps balance sebum production – which can help those with excessively oily, or excessively dry scalps. It helps reduce skin flaking and patches, and the vitamins A, B, C, and E are amazing antioxidants and nutrients that support and aid in scalp health and hair growth.

Ucuuba Butter

Hailing from Central and South America, this dark brown and hard butter is pressed from the seeds of the Ucuuba tree. It is believed to have anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties, making it useful for relieving scalp conditions such as dandruff and eczema. Also rich in essential fatty acids, Ucuuba butter can help prevent hair damage from free-radicals, improve shine and elasticity in hair (leading to less breakage“>, and help keep hair hydrated longer.

Marula Oil

photo courtesy of riaancoetzee — Getty Images

A light and subtly sweet oil made from the seeds of  Marula tree fruit, native to South Africa and Madagascar. It contains powerful antioxidants, nutrients, minerals, and essential fatty acids that help prevent and reverse environmental and UV damage. Marula oil also has anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, and cellular regeneration properties, all of which make the oil ideal for scalp health and hair growth.

Kokum Butter

Used traditionally in India, Kokum butter tends to fly under the radar – but it shouldn’t. Rich in essential fatty acids and non-comodegenic (non pore-clogging”>, Kokum Butter is perfect for stimulating the scalp for healthy hair growth. It helps cell oxygenation, making nutrients more readily available for use by scalp/skin tissues – which helps promote hair growth. It also supports and enhances hair elasticity, helping to ward off breakage.

MuruMuru Butter

photo courtesy of Happy Olive

Native to the Amazon ecosystem, Murumru Butter is extracted from the from the kernel of the fruit that bears the same name. Light and slightly nutty, muru muru butter is rich in omegas that help soften, promote elasticity, shine, and aid in moisture retention of hair. Because it is so thick in nature, Murumuru butter can help control frizz and define curls.

Tamanu Oil

Indigenous to Southeast Asia, the oil of the Tamanu tree is pressed from the kernel of the Tamanu nut. Tamanu Oil is a powerful antimicrobial, antibiotic, and healing agent, with tons of medicinal and haircare uses. It can be used to treat skin and scalp conditions, from burns, to rashes and inflammation, scalp infections, dandruff, psoriasis, eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, and more. It aids in healthy skin regeneration, which is a proven pathway to a healthier scalp, and therefore, healthier hair.

Kukui Nut Oil

photo courtesy of zkruger

Want to shop these butters?

Made especially for naturally curly and coily hair, these products contain the above butters to preserve the hair’s ultimate health and moisture. They are all available in Curlmart (links below”>.

Obia Naturals Twist Whip Butter, $18

Darcy’s Botanicals Tucuma Butter Moisture Whip, $12

CURLS Whipped Cream, $17

Oyin Handmade Whipped Pudding, $13.99

MyHoneyChild Honey Love Pomade, $18.99

Shea Terra Organics Certified Organic Shea Butter, $14

By Christina Patrice · Published July 20, 2015

PHOTO: QUEST FOR THE PERFECT CURL

Pure henna, also called lawsonia inermis, is an all-natural plant native to Africa, Southern Asia, and Australia. It has many uses, including dyeing and conditioning hair simultaneously. The leaves of the plant are crushed and a reddish-brown dye is released using a liquid such as hot water, coffee, or tea.

What does henna do?

1. Thicken Hair, Add Weight: This is because henna molecules bind to the keratin in the hair, creating plumpness of individual strands. Note that this is not permanent, and is not a solution for rapidly thinning, breaking, or otherwise damaged.
2. Awesome Color: 100% natural henna will always stain your hair to some degree. Depending on how long you leave it, the ingredients you mix in, and the natural color of your hair, your color will range from deep orange to burgundy or coffee brown. It is almost like a natural cellophane. The results are long-lasting and fade naturally, and won’t leave your hair looking washed out.
3. Shiny, Strong Hair: Henna always makes my hair shine. I also notice less breakage, which can be attributed to the protein-binding action mentioned previously.

4. Psoriasis Relief: To date, henna has been the ONLY thing to help keep my scalp psoriasis at bay. Even in the cold winter months when things get tricky, my scalp psoriasis isn’t nearly as bad. I don’t know why it works, but if it ain’t broke don’t fix it!

Which henna should you use?

I always advocate for using 100% pure Body Art Quality (BAQ”> Henna. In my opinion not only does it work better, but it will make your life easier. I strongly advise against naturally curly girls using Light Mountain because it is not finely sifted, and contains large granules and twigs. I had the time of my life trying to get that grit and twigs out of my transitioning hair, and had to wash my hair for several days following a henna treatment just to get them out.

Body Art Quality henna on the other hand, is finely sifted and smooth. It has the consistency of baby powder. This makes for easy mixing, easy application, and rinsing out. I personally swear by Jamila BAQ Henna. I have also recently tried Reshma Natural Highlights (this is the only box that is 100% henna, by the way”> and it is the same in terms of consistency, performance, and results.

What should you mix into your henna?

Some henna mixes just call for hot water and a spoon. That basic mix is totally fine, but it can leave your hair feeling a bit straw-like (because it acts like a protein treatment”>. To get the most out of your henna session, try playing around with the following ingredients, according to your hair’s needs.

For moisture, softness & conditioning

• Carrier Oils: I like coconut, olive, safflower, and red palm.

• Conditioner: Make sure it is protein free. I bounce between Aussie Moist and Suave Almond and Shea Butter Conditioner.

• Rhassoul Clay: I like the Purgasm Shop Wild Cherry Treatment Hair Truffle.

• Honey

For shine, pH balancing & porosity correcting

• Aloe Vera Juice or Gel

• Apple Cider Vinegar (raw, unfiltered with mother”>

• Bentonite Clay

For color enhancement

• Coffee (for deeper brown”>

• Lemon Juice (for brightness”>

• Green Tea (for brightness”>

• Paprika (for more red”>

For scalp health

• Tea Tree Oil

• Peppermint Essential Oil

• Rosemary Essential Oil

How to apply henna

For me, the easiest way to apply henna is using my hands (protected by gloves, of course”>. It allows me to get the henna directly on my scalp (for that psoriasis relief”>, as well as work it thoroughly through the hair. Using a color applicator brush is another way to apply it through the hair as well. I’ve even seen applicator bottles (with a wide nozzle of course”> used. It all depends on what you have around, and what would be easiest. Henna should be allowed to sit after mixed for about half an hour to allow the dye to release. After that, applying it to your hair for anywhere from 1 to 8 hours is just fine. The longer you leave it on, the more color you will get out of it. I usually henna at night and sleep with my head (and pillowcases”> covered, and rinse in the morning.

Watch this quick mixing demonstration

1. Start on freshly washed or thoroughly rinsed hair. No sense in henna sticking to product buildup!
2. Always use plastic or wooden containers and utensils. Henna can react with some metals. Although I’ve never seen this happen, I tend to err on the side of caution.
3. Cover everything–the table you mix on, the floor, and any surfaces within 3 feet of where you’ll be applying. It can get messy.
4. Wear gloves. Unless you want orange fingernails.
5. Wear a shirt you don’t mind getting stained.
6. Rinse out your henna using water and a cheap slippery conditioner. It’ll make the removal process a lot easier.

7. Deep condition your hair afterwards, and style as normal.

Have you used henna to brighten or condition your hair? 

This article was published in April 2014 has been updated for grammar and clarity.

By Christina Patrice · Published June 26, 2015

PICTURED: NAPTURAL85

Let’s face it. At some point, you are more than likely going to stretch or straighten your natural or transitioning hair.

Whether it be a regular part of your wash day routine (like stretching your roots for a super voluminous wash and go”>, blow-drying your hair to prevent tangling during protective styling, prepping for a knock-out bantu knot-out, or even flat ironing for a sleek look, protective measures are always necessary to prevent damage.

This is how to get the most out of your heat stretching without compromising the health of your hair.

Step 1: Heat Protection

Always, always, ALWAYS protect your hair when it comes to manipulating it with heat.

Protecting your hair from dryness, cracked cuticles, breakage, and heat damage starts on wash day. A moisturizing shampoo or cowash, a great deep conditioner, and stellar heat protecting/leave-in products are a must. Making sure hair is properly moisturized and protected will guarantee a better finished product.

These products are all great heat protectants that will help moisturize, strengthen, and prevent heat damage:

• Tresemme Heat Tamer Spray
• ApHogee Keratin and Green Tea Restructurizer Spray
•  ApHogee Curlific Leave-In
• Blow Dry Addict Blow Dry Creme

MORE: Naptural85’s Heatless Blowout 

Step 2: Check The Method

Once you’ve got your product arsenal together, it’s time to discuss methods for heat stretching. There are 4 popular methods for heat stretching to choose from (okay so one of them is a little unconventional, and I totally stumbled upon it on accident one day”>.

Tension Method

The tension method is one of the least damaging ways to go from dripping wet to dry hair. All you need is a blow dryer with a concentrator nozzle. With hair parted into however many sections works for you (I do 5-6″>, apply your protection products of choice. With your hair detangled and smoothed between your fingers, gently stretch it downward. With hair in the stretched state, gently move the concentrator nozzle down the shaft of the hair repeatedly until dry. The downward motion provides a better stretch. Medium or low heat with high speeds are recommended with this method.

Blowdry with Comb/Attachment

This is your regular, run-of-the-mill blow drying session. It has the propensity to cause the most damage, but it is also the most effective if you are looking to get super straight stretched hair. This method involves applying protection product, and either with a wide-tooth comb or comb attachment, moving through the hair with the blow dryer at medium or low heat and high speed. You can use the high setting if you choose, for a straighter look. However, the hotter the blow dryer, the faster it zaps moisture from your hair.

Band/Braid Then Blow Dry

Because blow drying can literally zap the moisture out of the hair, some naturals and transitioners prefer to let their hair air dry partially first. The most effective way to air dry is with the hair completely loose, but this lends itself to massive shrinkage, tangling, and breakage. To ward off those natural hair horrors, banding the hair or putting the hair in loose braids works well. Once hair is about 75% dry, you can then use either the tension or comb/attachment blow drying method to finish the job.

Steamer Blowout

This one I stumbled upon on accident. Way back when I got my Q-Redew, I began using it to refresh, moisturize, and detangle my hair. One random evening, I decided to ditch the conditioner to detangle, and see what 100% steam-only would do to my hair. The end result: a massive blowout that was super moisturized! This is surely the way to go if you are terrified of the blow dryer. There is gentle heat, but the water infuses moisture deep into the strand which prevents drying. Will it give you better results than a blow dryer? Maybe. Will your hair be dry afterward? Absolutely not! Check out my Instagram to peep the blowout picture!

Flat Ironing

*cue horror music* This is the one straightening/stretching method that sends chills throughout the natural hair and transitioning community. After doing so much hard work to get curls healthy, everything could be for naught in one fell swoop. But if you do it right, the results are gorgeous and your curls will revert 100%. You need clean hair (shampoo clean, not cowash clean”> that has been deep condition, and dried via one of the above methods (except steaming”>. Heat protection here is SUPER important! I recommend a heat protectant before blow drying, and a serum before flat ironing. Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Moroccan Sleek Oil Treatment is my favorite flat ironing serum to use. Using a flat iron with a visible temperature gauge (no high, medium, low!”>, make 1 or 2 passes (no more than 2″> over super small sections of hair. It is CRITICAL that hair be 100% dry before flat ironing to prevent bubbling within the shaft. Also, while temperature tolerance varies head-to-head, it is generally a good idea to keep flat iron temperatures below 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, under 380 degrees. Click here for more in-depth information about flat ironing hair.

Step 3: Moisturize and Maintain

Maintaining moisture levels in heat stretched hair can be difficult. Water-based anything will cause immediate reversion. But at the same time, water is the one true moisturizer. Talk about a paradox! One of the best ways to combat this is to regularly moisturize the hair with an oil that is known to penetrate the hair shaft. Easiest, most accessible, and affordable is coconut oil. Applying it sparingly throughout your stretched hair stint will help keep the hair moisturized, and protect the ends which are incredibly prone to drying out.

Other oils that penetrate the hair shaft (although not as effectively as coconut oil”> are: grapeseed oil, argan oil, palm kernel oil, and flaxseed oil. Ucuuba butter is also known to penetrate the hair. At this stage, it is super important to avoid silicone-based serums. They don’t penetrate the hair, and they can have a mild occlusive effect and prevent other moisturizers from getting in as well. Although it may be more expensive, 100% pure oil is best. Cold pressed, virgin, and unrefined is even better.

Follow more of my tips for transitioners and curly girls on my blog, ManeObjective.com & stay in touch with me through my Instagram, @ManeObjective.

This article was originally published in February 2014 and has been updated for grammar and clarity.

By Christina Patrice · Published April 29, 2015

I remember it like it was yesterday.

My freshman year of high school, I woke up to prepare for school and noticed that there were scaly lesions on my arms and legs. Panicking, I showed my parents.

After a week went by, the scaly patches had spread to my face, back, and scalp — leaving me itchy and humiliated.

Was it eczema? A rash? They told me to put on some vaseline, and they’d monitor the situation. After a week went by, the scaly patches had spread to my face, back, and scalp — leaving me itchy and humiliated.

I mean, could you imagine? Starting your high school career with patches of scaly skin all over you? Needless to say, I have no pictures from my first year of high school. In the meantime, my mom took me to the doctor, who referred me to a dermatologist, who handed down the official diagnosis — psoriasis. 

At the time, I didn’t know what it meant. I just wanted it to hurry up and be over with so I could look normal and stop wearing hoodies, headbands, and long pants in 90 degree weather. I spent the next few months using topical creams like Dovonex and Clobetasol to supplement the twice per week UV light therapy sessions. I remember the one time I cranked the light up too high, and sunburned the hell out of myself. Needless to say, I was in a lot of pain and even more embarrassed when my burnt skin began to crack and peel.

Luckily, those treatments were effective, and I was able to finish high school in a fairly normal fashion. That was almost 15 years ago.

As an adult, I still live every day with psoriasis. I won’t pretend like it doesn’t impact me — because it does. There are times of the year where it’s worse, because the air is colder, the sun isn’t out as much, or because I’m under stress (or had some alcohol”>. I’m able to manage the psoriasis on my body fairly well (although I do wish it wasn’t there”>, but the most challenging place of all is to have it on my scalp.

I’m sure you’ve seen it in some of my pictures, noticed that I wash my hair frequently, or even wondered why I never do protective styles. The truth is, those are adjustments I’ve had to make to my regimen to accommodate living with psoriasis and curly hair. As much as I would love to, I can’t throw my hair in some faux locs or into a braided updo for weeks on end. I have to be able to cleanse my scalp and remove flakes every few days. It just is what it is. I wear wash and go’s because it’s the easiest style to manage when washing your hair twice per week.

I have to be mindful of what products I use in my hair, and avoid those that have skin irritants and synthetic fragrance

I have to be mindful of what products I use in my hair, and avoid those that have skin irritants and synthetic fragrance high up on the list. I don’t often wear high buns and pulled up ponytails, because well honestly, the psoriasis behind my ears is a little off-putting (and kind of embarrassing for me”>.

Most people don’t understand psoriasis, and who can blame them? Most doctors don’t understand psoriasis. Psoriasis is believed to be an auto-immune disease linked to the immune system and genetics, where scales of skin grow at an abnormally fast rate. It is most commonly seen on the elbows, knees, and scalp, although it can occur anywhere on the body. Usually something triggers psoriasis, like stress or a traumatic event. For me personally, I can’t call it trigger-wise. It sort of just happened — but from a genetic standpoint parents and relatives did suffer from other skin disorders, so there’s that. Psoriasis is not contagious, and those diagnosed with it can typically manage it through any number of treatments.

Because there is no cure for psoriasis and how it works isn’t wholly understood, the best sufferers can hope for is to manage it and isolate different triggers that cause flare-ups.

Product recommendations

Here are some of my product recommendations for the scalp specifically:

• Henna: I don’t know why it works, how it works, or even if it’s supposed to work. But I do notice that with regular henna treatments, my scalp has less itching and flaking in the days and weeks following.

• Be Kekoa Scalp Enzyme Spray: Loosens Plaques and soothes itching.

• SheaMoisture African Black Soap Purification Masque: Helps manage flaking.

• Avocado Oil: Loosens plaques and soothes itching/dryness.

• Alaffia African Black Soap: Helps manage flaking.

• Apple Cider Vinegar rinses: Helps manage flaking.

How to care for your hair

1. Hot oil treatments on wash day. Before you wash your hair, let warm oil (like avocado, or grapeseed”> sit on your scalp and hair for at least 30 minutes. This will help loosen the scalp plaques and make them easier to remove during cleansing

2. Avoid scratching roughly with nails. I know, your scalp itches. I understand. But scratching to the point of cracking already traumatized skin is a recipe for painful infection. Oh, and when you do get a little infected lump, chances are it will (at least temporarily”> become a small bald spot.

3. Wash your hair every few days with psoriasis friendly products. Avoid anything with artificial fragrance listed in the top 5-7 ingredients, because it has a high potential to irritate the scalp.

How to live with psoriasis

Here are a few general pieces of advice for living with psoriasis:

1. Seek medical attention. First and foremost. Get a definitive diagnosis from a dermatologist before you move forward with treatments, topical steroids, vitamins, or any homeopathic solutions.
2. Being active helps. It relieves stress, which can exacerbate the condition.
3. Keep stress to a minimum, or try to be as stress-free as possible.
4. Take advantage of the sun whenever possible. Sunlight/UVA exposure has been shown to help slow the growth of skin plaques.
5. Avoid or minimize alcohol consumption. This one sucks, but alcohol dries out the skin and dehydrates the body — both of which can make psoriasis flare-ups worse.
6. Try experimenting with your diet. Eliminating dairy, processed sugars, or even certain types of grain has been shown to help certain sufferers. Everybody is different, so just be open to trying different things.
7. Shea butter is your friend. Not only is it soothing, but as a thick moisturizer it helps create a protective barrier on the skin to avoid drying out easily.
8. Rotate your treatment options. Psoriasis adapts to certain treatments, so be prepared to switch it up every few months or so.

To sum it up

Living with psoriasis is difficult, but with the right tools information, you can most certainly manage it. I’m currently trying out different dietary changes, and incorporating a new supplement into my regimen. I’ll report back on how successful it was over on my blog maneobjective.com.

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How do you manage psoriasis or another skin and scalp condition with curly hair?

By Christina Patrice · Published April 10, 2015

In the curly/kinky hair community, there are two streams of thought – big chop and transitioning.

Effective moisturizing for transitioners can be tricky.

Sometimes the natural texture is more thirsty than the relaxed or straightened ends. If your moisturizer is too heavy, your natural growth feels lovely, but the ends begin looking like wet noodles. On the other hand if your moisturizer is too light, your ends feel perfectly nourished while the natural hair looks parched. And at the same time, all transitioners are worried about preventing breakage at the line of demarcation between newly grown hair and old damaged or relaxed ends.

What’s a transitioner to do?

Check out these moisturizers that are great for transitioning hair of all types. Even the heaviest ones are light enough for transitioning tresses! Added bonus: aside from all the wonderful herbs, extracts, butters, and oils, all of these products are water-based so they are able to hydrate, nourish, and protect all at the same time.

1. Qhemet Biologics Burdock Root Butter Cream

Based in Olive Oil and water infused with haircare herbs like Burdock Root, Nettle and Oatstraw, this thick and creamy moisturizer is perfect for drier textures of newly grown natural hair. The entire Qhemet Biologics line is designed for super dry hair, but this gem in particular is lighter than the famed Alma and Olive Heavy Cream – making it perfect for transitioners trying to balance and moisturize two textures. The herbal infusions help strengthen hair, prevent breakage, impart shine, and improve elasticity – all things transitioners need!

2. SheaMoisture Yucca and Aloe Thickening Growth Milk

A popular brand loved by many, Shea Moisture has tons of natural product offerings for all hair types. Where curly holy grails like the Curl Enhancing Smoothie can be a little too thick or heavy for some transitioners, the Yucca and Aloe Thickening Growth Milk based in shea butter, coconut oil, and mango seed butter is just the right consistency for transitioners with thirsty hair that need nourishment, shine, elasticity, and anti-breakage help.

3. Soultanicals Fluffalicious Curl Nutricious

Fluffalicious Curl Nutricious is a lightweight, fluffy whip that packs a moisturizing punch. Although seemingly less dense than other moisturizers, it packs a nourishing punch thanks to aloe vera juice, rice bran oil, avocado oils, and water infused with botanical extracts like blue malva and calendula that help strengthen, improve elasticity, and impart shine to the hair. Fluffalicious is great for all types of hair, but works especially well for fine natural and transitioning strands that tend to be weighed down by heavier oils and butters.

4. Curls Whipped Cream

Along the same lines as Fluffalicious, Curls Whipped Cream is an incredibly light, whipped cream (hence the name”> that also moisturizes incredibly well. The sweet smelling whip is based in certified organic goodies like aloe vera juice, soybean, coconut, and sunflower oils – all of which help hydrate, nourish, balance, and improve the elasticity of the hair. Whipped cream’s blend of essential oils, extracts, and more make it ideal for any hair type. 

5. TGIN Butter Cream Daily Moisturizer

6. Eden Body Works Coconut Shea Pudding Soufflé

A fan favorite, Eden BodyWorks knows just how to help transitioners get over the moisturizing hump with their all-natural pudding soufflé. Blending coconut oil, shea butter, and aloe vera, this pudding is light, creamy, and works perfectly for moderately dry transitioning and natural hair by moisturizing, lightly sealing, improving elasticity and shine, while helping to balance pH. For thirstier tresses, the Coconut Shea Curl Defining Crème is a great option from the Eden BodyWorks line.

7. Hairitage Hydration Cocoaloe Hair Hydrator Lotion

This super blend of aloe vera gel, olive butter, and coconut oil is perfect for parched tresses and transitioning hair that needs TLC without being weighed down. Anything aloe based is bound to be light, moisturizing, and pH-balancing – and this lotion is no exception!

8. Camille Rose Naturals Fresh Curl

Fresh Curl will nourish any texture of hair, but it works especially well for those with thin/fine strands that need love without weighing transitioning or newly natural hair down. The castor and avocado oil blend is great for moisture, light sealing, and improving elasticity while the hydrolyzed protein gives transitioning hair a boost by locking in to chipped and damaged cuticles.

9. Kurlee Belle Kurl Defining Crème

Shea Butter, coconut, and jojoba oils bring this product to life, making it great for transitioning tresses. It moisturizes effectively, seals lightly, and helps impart shine, improve elasticity, and nourish the hair. It is on the thicker side and ideal for drier hair textures. But it can also be used for finer hair as a styling product to create definition. Talk about 2 for 1!

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By Christina Patrice · Published March 2, 2015

I know this goes without saying, but sometimes we product junkies get caught up in the thrill of the product chase and neglect our precious tools. But after weeks of getting serious mileage put on them, the tools we use on our textured tresses need a little TLC. Keep them in tip-top shape with these easy to implement tips for cleaning

Electronic tools (Steamer, Flat iron, Blow dryer”>

Electronic tools are trickier to clean, because well, they’re electronics and cannot be submerged in water like combs and brushes can. The best thing to do here is wet a cloth, towel, t-shirt, or microfiber towel, and add a little bit of soap or shampoo to it. Rub your cloth of choice against itself to create a light lather, and begin wiping your tools down. You can follow behind it with another towel that’s damp with water only to wipe up the soap residue and let the tools air-dry. For grooves around things like flat-iron plates and blow dryer buttons that have gunk and product buildup in them, grab a toothpick or remove the protective bulb from one end of a bobby pin and use the tip to trace the shape of the groove. After that, wipe with the damp soapy cloth, and repeat the process until it’s completely clean.

Insider Tip: If you own a steaming tool like the Q-Redew, add a tablespoon of vinegar to the water in the reservoir, and plug it in. Once ready to use, hold the button handle down and allow the water and vinegar mix to come through the holes. The vinegar will help clear up the buildup and mineral deposits that may be impeding the flow of steam.

PHOTO COURTESY OF INDIAN BEAUTY CENTRAL

Combs & Brushes

Cleaning combs and brushes is important to do, and of all tools, they’re the easiest to clean. Combs and brushes can get some serious buildup on them from detangling, parting, curl clumping, and being used to slick edges, ponytails, and buns. To clean your combs and brushes, simply fill a sink or large bowl with warm/hot (not scalding!”> water and immerse your tools. To clean them, you can use dish soap, or even shampoo. You know that shampoo you bought that you thought was going to be great, but actually dried your hair out? Yeah, use that to clean your tools! Once they’re all gussied up, pat them dry with a towel (or paper towels”> and allow them to finish air drying before storing them away.

Insider Tips: For buildup stuck between the teeth of combs, use a nail brush soaked in water and shampoo, and run it briskly up and down the length of the comb teeth, intermittently dunking it in the water to loosen the gunk. To get gunk from your soft bristle brushes, before you clean a comb, use it to work and rake through the bristles, intermittently dunking the brush into the water to loosen buildup.

Styling Tools (Curlformers, Perm Rods, Diffusers”>

Much like combs and brushes, styling tools like flexi rods, perm rods, and Curlformers take a lot of use and abuse from creams, gels, foaming mousses, and more. So naturally, to keep them in tip-top shape, they need to be cleaned from time to time. For perm rods and Curlformers, you can follow the same practice (and even wash them at the same time”> as you would do for combs and brushes. Dunk them, add soap or shampoo, scrub gently (as necessary”>, rinse, pat dry, and allow them to dry completely before storage. Flexi rods are a bit trickier, because of their slightly porous foam material composition, and the button snaps (what are those things? lol”> on each end. There’s ample opportunity for those to become soaked in water and never dry out–rendering them useless. It’s a little more tedious–but wash them like you would your electronic tools. Wipe them down with a cloth containing warm, soapy water. You can rinse them briefly, darting them under the water, and squeeze each rod gently while towel drying. Ensure they are completely dry and there’s no water trapped inside before storage.

Insider Tip: Use your blow dryer (without an attachment”> to expedite the drying process for curling tools.

Scarves, Bonnets, and Satin Pillowcases

Your nighttime hair protection needs to be washed too! Oils, products, (and sometimes drool and sweat #behonest”> end up on our satin pillowcases, bonnets, and satin scarves.  Depending on their origin and materials, there are two different ways to handle cleaning them. If your products are on the cheaper side of life like mine (my satin scarves came from Sally’s, my satin pillowcase from Target”>, throwing them in the washer and dryer with your towels is just fine. I don’t recommend washing them with your clothes, because the product buildup and oils may stain your clothing. However, if you have a nicer, hand-made bonnet, scarf, or pillowcase made of quality materials from EboniCurls or FlorBella Boutique, hand wash it with a gentle detergent or shampoo, and allow it to air-dry on a flat surface to avoid wrinkles.

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When was the last time you cleaned your hair tools?

By Christina Patrice · Published February 24, 2015

Although deep conditioning is an intense treat for your hair, it doesn’t have to be an intense process at all. There’s an over-abundance of information online that makes deep conditioning seem like rocket science, but it is really simple. Actually, getting the most out of your deep conditioner is really simple.

It boils down to what I like to call the 3 T’s: time, temperature, and type.

Time

One of the hallmarks that sets deep conditioning apart from regular rinse-out conditioning (which you should totally be doing on those co-wash days between deep conditioning sessions”> is the amount of time the product spends on the hair. If you read the label of most deep conditioners designed for natural hair, they recommend allowing the product to sit on the strands for 15-30 minutes. Even though some of my favorites that aren’t specifically for textured hair (like Eva NYC Therapy Session”> recommend 3-5 minutes, I still leave them on for 20-30 minutes. Why? Because leaving the conditioner on for 20-30 minutes allows the ingredients to reach maximum adsorption. What this means is that although some ingredients (like proteins”> stick to the hair immediately, with more time, they are able to patch, cover, and stick to more damaged areas than they would if only 3-5 minutes were given. In this article by Jc of The Natural Haven, she shares that deep conditioning ingredients are able to reach maximum adsorption (sticking to/externally repairing”> after 20-30 minutes — 60 – 100% more than they achieve in the standard 3-5 minute time frame. It is important to note that no further adsorption occurs after 30 minutes. So no, you don’t need to deep condition overnight.

• The Takeaway: Leave your deep conditioner on for at least 20 minutes for maximum effectiveness. 30 minutes, if you have color-treated or otherwise damaged hair.

Temperature

Do you have to heat up your deep conditioner for it to be more effective? No, you don’t have to do anything you don’t want to do. But is it more effective? The short answer is, yes. In that same article by Jc linked above, she discusses the impact of temperature on the hair when deep conditioning. But just in case you don’t feel like reading all of that, let me summarize it for you: heat does help lift the hair cuticle, and allow for deeper penetration of ingredients. Heat also facilitates increased adsorption of ingredients to the hair. Heat around 35 degrees Celsius (95 degrees Fahrenheit”> so as to not burn the skin or scalp is found to be most effective. You can achieve this by placing your conditioner in a hot water bath, sitting under a hooded dryer (or hooded attachment”>, or using something like a Hot Head. Just remember to not leave it on for more than 30 minutes.

• The Takeaway: Your deep conditioner + indirect heat = maximum effectiveness.

Type

Now that we’ve got the super science out of the way, it’s time to talk about my favorite part: products.  The result you desire to achieve with your deep conditioning session will largely depend on the products you choose. Almost all deep conditioners will have a base that consists of water and fatty alcohols (like cetyl, stearyl, and cetearyl”>. What comes after that will determine how a particular deep conditioner will work for you. But in general, you can follow these guidelines to decipher which deep conditioner to pick up:

Mega Moisture

Protein Power

The Balancing Act

• The Takeaway: Go beyond what the product says it’ll do. Marketing and gimmicks are real. Turn to the ingredient list — it will give you far more insight into what the deep conditioner can do for your hair.   

I wouldn’t be me if I didn’t end this off with a few product recommendations. If you’re looking for:

Mega Moisture: TGIN Honey Miracle Mask, Shea Moisture Manuka Honeu & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration Hair Masque, Eden BodyWorks Jojoba Monoi Deep Conditioner, Amika Nourishing Mask

Protein Power: ApHogee Keratin 2 Minute Reconstructor

Balancing: Shea Moisture JBCO Treatment Masque, Zotos 180 Pro Rapid Restorer, Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus Protein Deep Conditioning Treatment, Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask, ApHogee Texture Treatment, Ouidad Curl Recovery Melt-Down Extreme Repair Mask

By Christina Patrice · Published February 18, 2015

If you’re like me, you’ve wanted to get in to diffusing, but just couldn’t figure out why your end results looked absolutely NOTHING like everyone else’s. From dry, crispy, and shrunken, to frizzy and dull, your attempts at diffusing have been practically a fail. Worry no more, I’m here to help! I’ve managed to identify the 4 key areas of concern when it comes to diffusing, and what to do about them.

In this video, I’m starting on a wash and go that I did earlier in the afternoon. I followed the LOC method prior to styling, using Giovanni Direct Leave-In as my leave-in conditioner, Longview Farms Pure Refined Emu Oil to seal in moisture, and Amika Straight Up Smoothing Balm as my cream. I followed that up with my curl definer of choice, and allowed it to air dry with the front pinned back for gentle elongation (since I have more shrinkage up front”> for about 4 hours or so. The front half of my hair is still pretty wet from being pinned up, and my roots were still wet all over, also.

For me, this is the perfect hair to actually diffuse on–I’d say it was about 60% dry. (Yes, my hair takes forever to dry. I’m also applying more Amika Straight Up Smoothing Balm prior to diffusing for added moisture and heat protection. This step is optional, but recommended”>.

So let’s get on with these major areas of concern around diffusing, and how to hack them.

1. Diffuse mostly dry hair for volume

The first and most major area of concern for many of us is shrinkage and lack of volume when diffusing. I know, there’s nothing more irritating than watching a diffusing tutorial on YouTube and emulating what the vlogger did, but instead of a curly, fluffy mane, you end up with shrunken, thin and puny looking curls. Luckily, there’s a hack for that, and it’s really easy: wait until your hair is at least 50-60% dry before diffusing.

Wait until your hair is at least 50-60% dry before diffusing.

Not only does starting on more than halfway dry hair help cut your diffusing time down considerably (leaving you with hair that isn’t dried out”>, air drying prior to diffusing also gives your curls the opportunity to expand naturally before the diffusing process locks them into place. Trust me, I’ve diffused on completely wet hair before. Not only did it take an eternity, but the end result was shrunken and flat. Once you’re done diffusing, you can remove the attachment and send straight shots of heat to your roots and length while gently tugging your hair downward to further elongate and enhance volume.

2. Apply styler, then don’t touch

The second area of concern when it comes to diffusing is frizz. There’s a common misconception because you use a diffuser, your frizz problems will disappear. That’s not the case at all. Mitigating frizz has less to do with the diffuser, and more to do with what happens to your hair prior to diffusing. Combating frizz in the diffusing process is actually two-fold. Before you begin diffusing, ensure that you’ve applied enough styling product to your hair. I’m not saying you have to use an entire vat of Eco Styler gel, but do set yourself up for success by ensuring that your strands are decently coated in your curl definer of choice. And after you’ve applied the product, whether it be via shingling, rake & shake, praying hands, or another method, try your best to keep your hands out of your hair. 

Once it’s time to diffuse, make sure you’re handling the hair gently as you move about your head with the diffuser. Moving around your head, alternate between sitting the diffuser at your roots, resting it flush against the length of your hair, and scooping it gently into the bowl and scrunching upward. Repeat this as long as it take for your hair to dry. When it’s 90-95% dry, you can begin shaking and fluffing with the diffuser for added volume.

Bonus hack

Try adding a smoothing balm or serum to your hair right before diffusing. The Amika balm I used in the video below provides heat-activated frizz fighting, smoothing, and heat protection all in one. Smoothing products will help cut down on frizz during diffusing and in the days following.

3. Layer products to avoid crunch

The third area of concern is crunchy curls. Nobody wants crispy curls that look like they’re two steps from total disintegration. The first hack in preventing curl crunch is to layer your products properly and ensure that you have some sort of leave-in (at minimum”> between your curls and your curl definer. The next way to knock out crunchy curls is to scrunch them with an oil of choice — like argan, emu, avocado, or Jamaican black castor oil. Take a dime or nickel sized amount, rub it between your palms and scrunch it throughout your hair gently to remove the crunch (aka gel cast”> without causing frizz. 

4. Avoid heat damage

Lastly, let’s address the concern that lies in these two dreaded words: heat damage. Honestly, I’m unaware of anyone having ever suffered heat damage at the hand of the diffuser. If anything, diffusers help prevent heat damage via blow dryer, by diffusing the warm air around the curls, as opposed to directly on them. But even if you’re in the overly cautious camp, there are three simple hacks that you can use to safeguard against heat damage.

1. One, keep your blow dryer temperature on cool, low, or medium heat.
2. Two, keep the diffuser moving. Don’t sit it on any one section of your hair for too long. I like to move from section to section within 10 seconds or less. 
3. And three, use a heat protection balm, serum, or spray to shield your tresses.

I hope you all found these hacks helpful. I know in the video, I don’t have the massive, voluminous curls that some YouTubers do, but that’s because I want this wash and go to last a good 3-4 days. Remember, the less manipulation you do on day 1, the longer the style will hold.

Thank you for watching! Be sure to keep up with me on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest and don’t forget to like, comment, subscribe & share this video with a curlfriend!

By Christina Patrice · Published February 3, 2015

PICTURED MKLASHAY

Although the transitioning process can be difficult, learning how to properly stretch your hair can make the journey to natural hair a little easier to digest. Proper stretching can help transitioners in a few different ways:

• Easing the detangling process, and decreasing the amount of breakage from tangles.

• Providing flexible styling options — transitioners can enjoy twist-outs, braid-outs, bantu knot-outs, Curlformers, flexi rods, and more on stretched hair.

• Allowing you to show more length. One of the hardest things about transitioning is when that shrinkage kicks in around months 4 and 5 — your hair begins to seem shorter than it was. It can be quite a shock to ladies used to seeing longer, flowing locks as their hair grows. Stretching will help ease that.

How can you safely stretch your hair and prevent breakage at the same time? Here are 3 gentle ways to make it happen.

1. Banding

Banding (pictured above”> is my favorite stretching method. I used it as a transitioner to stretch my braid-outs and other styles that had shrunken too much, and I also used it prior to doing other styles like Curlformers. Banding is really simple — you just grab a section of hair and a few ouchless scrunchies and go to work! The larger the section and space between scrunchies, the less stretch you’ll have. Smaller sections and more scrunchies closer together will result in a more stretched, blown out result. To ensure that your banding is a success, make sure you:

• Use ouchless scrunchies to ensure that you don’t end up with breakage and hair caught metal clasps.

• Moisturize sections properly prior to banding to prevent breakage.

• Don’t wrap the scrunchies too tightly at the roots. Your edges will thank you.

• Make sure hair is dry prior to releasing the scrunchies. Otherwise, your hair will shrink right back up.

• Remove scrunchies with extreme care. Otherwise, you run the risk of snagging and breakage.

PICTURED BEAUTIFROHAIR

2. Tension Blow Drying

Using the blow dryer is another popular way to stretch transitioning hair. But because it involves heat, transitioners should proceed with extreme caution. Instead of running a paddle brush and concentrator nozzle through the hair or using the comb attachment itself, the tension method will help ensure stretched hair without incurring extra damage to the hair. To use the tension method, simply part your hair into sections. One section at a time, pull the hair taut (not yanking it”> and move the blow dryer (without an attachment or with the concentrator nozzle”>, up and down the length of the hair (without the dryer coming into contact with the hair”>. You can use the tension method on wet or dry hair. Once the section is stretched, twist it loosely or clip it away. To keep breakage and damage at bay:

• Use a leave-in, heat protectant, or blow-drying cream to delay water loss from within the cortex of the hair, helping to maintain elasticity and internal moisture balance.

• Keep the blow dryer moving, and do not stay in one section for too long (to prevent hair from drying out”>.

• Make sure you’re deep conditioning regularly to maintain moisture, elasticity, cuticle health, and prevent heat damage, breakage, and split ends.

More about deep conditioning

3. Roller Sets

There’s no quicker style killer than a halfway dry roller

Another great 2-for-1 stretching method is roller sets. While I failed wildly in executing my roller set, I do know that plenty of transitioners have used this method to show off their length while also getting a great stretch and style from their hair. To pull off a great roller set (the total opposite of mine“>, check out this post on CurlyNikki! Although I can’t tell you how to do one successfully, I can tell you what not to do:

• Don’t use too much product. Stick, tack, and shellac city.

• Make sure the hair lies flush along the roller, for the sleekest results.

• Hair should be pulled taut at the roots, to ensure elongation and smoothness.

• Make sure your rollers are secure! There’s no quicker style killer than a halfway dry roller that falls off and leaves you with frizzy hair (and that’s not the look you’re going for”>.

Which method will you be trying to stretch your transitioning tresses? These methods work for completely transitioned natural hair, too!