Search Results: Charlene Walton

How to Start a Successful Hair Blog Today

It seems as if every day there is a new blog that pops ups and grabs our attention. Health and beauty blogs especially are just about everywhere because there is vast amount of content to share. Personal blogs more specifically are extremely engaging because readers visit the site and are ultimately drawn to the person who is doing the storytelling. Starting a blog is one of the most rewarding things I have done. Not only do I have the chance to connect with so many people but I also have the chance to help and educate women about natural hair care more than I could have ever done before by myself. While the task of starting a blog might seem daunting, it is really not as hard as you think. The process can be extremely fun but it is also a ton of work. To help you take your first steps, here are five tips to start a hair care blog. 

Know your purpose. Know your audience.

The first question you should ask yourself is why. Blogging sounds super cool, but you must know your purpose for starting a hair care blog. Do you want to educate? Do you want to become the next big influencer and strictly work with brands? Are you looking to monetize and become a full-time blogger? The answers to these questions are needed in order to create a streamlined content plan.

Understanding the purpose of your blog will also lead you into narrowing your ideal reader profile also known as your audience. Each blog post published should speak directly to their needs and provide value in order to retain visitors as readers and long time followers of your work. With creating a hair care blog especially, think about how you can format your platform differently than the 100 or so other hair care blogs on the internet.

Secure your blog name/brand across social media

This tip is especially important if you plan to become a full-time blogger. Consistency across all social media platforms makes it easy for readers to follow and find you everywhere. In addition, name consistency is great for SEO purposes and will help your blog name/brand rank with Google. Once you’ve decided on a name, search to make sure it is available via Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest, etc. If you are really serious about becoming a full-time blogger and turning it into a profitable business, look into trademarking your blog name with the United States Patent and Trademark Office.

Build an email list

Relying on social media to promote your blog is not enough. Seeing that every social media platforms decides to change algorithms what seem like every other month, you can not be naive to think people will see our blog simply because you share it to Facebook and Twitter once. Start building your email list from day one by having readers subscribe to your blog and offer them something in return. The sweetest thing about having an email list is that it serves as a direct connection to your readers. This is the prime opportunity to direct them to your blog and remind them to read. Trust me, people will not magically scroll on over to your blog just because you have a domain address. Not even your family or your best friends. Do not take this personal but realize they probably are not your ideal readers or target audience. If Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter all crashed today and there was no way to let your readers know you are still alive and blogging, at least you will have an email list.

Understand how to research

Credibility in creating a hair care blog is a crucial part of your content. Be careful not to reiterate things you have heard other people say without taking the time to properly conduct research. Using outside sources like medical journals and referencing studies conducted at different universities will position your blog as a credible platform and build trust with your readers. In addition, develop a relationship with a professional stylist you trust to bounce ideas and fact check topics you are uncertain about writing. Within your blog posts, also state that you referenced a stylist as a way to show readers you sought professional insight to help bring the best information to your hair care platform

Engage on social media, focus less on numbers

Like, comment, subscribe! Once you start your hair care blog make an effort to engage with other bloggers in your community. Comment on pictures on Instagram. Read other blogs you love and leave meaningful comments at the end of the post, then reshare to your social media outlets. If brands are not sending free product for you to promote, purchase the products yourself. Next, post your experience with the product on social media and be sure to tag the brand. Hair care brands look to social media for feedback and real opinions of people who use their products. This is a way for you to be seen as a blogger by hair care companies and other bloggers in the hair and beauty community. Engagement on social media is far more important than number of followers, likes, and subscribers. If you can show that people are visiting your blog, actually reading content and leaving a comment, that engagement is far more rewarding than a ton of followers who may never stop to read a word you have written. Once you engage with people on social, you will slowly start to see that engagement reciprocated to you as well.

The last piece of advice I would give is just start. Realize things do not have to be perfect and you will continue to grow and make your platform better each day. What other things would you like to know about starting a hair care blog? Leave your comment below!

Why I Decided NOT to Cut My Heat Damage

After a year of successfully growing out my hair and achieving the quickest amount of growth I had in years, I faced a serious set back. Deep conditioning treatments, protective styles, and moisturizing around the clock resulted in popping curls, but all of that was destroyed after an unfortunate meeting with an extremely hot flat iron.

Leaving the salon, I should have known something was wrong. Although my hair was super straight, it was also SO straight it felt thin. Since I have an extremely fine texture it does not take much heat to get the job done. But the stylist had previously straightened my hair before, so I thought no big deal. After shampoo and deep conditioning one week later, I discovered not only did I have heat damage on a section of my hair, the damage started at the root and traveled all the way down to my ends. Completely and utterly in shock, I quickly started to think of my options. Do the big chop? No. Get a tapered cut? No. Maybe shave a side of my head like Cassie? No. No. No! I decided to roll up my sleeves and grow out my heat damage for the rest of the year. Looking at the glass half-full, growing out my heat damage would allow me to do a few things.

The damage started at the root and traveled all the way down to my ends.

First, this allowed me to test new products for performance as it pertains to damage recovery. Heat damage occurs when the keratin bonds within the hair are broken, resulting in a permanent physical change of your hair structure. Heat damage at this level is irreversible, but there are products that can help to strengthen the hair after damage. My goal during my time of growing out my heat damaged hair was to make sure the newly growing naturally curly hair was healthy and without breakage. Products like Ouidad Curl Recovery Melt Down Mask Extreme Repair Mask helped to promote the health of my hair and prevent future breakage. The product is also said to help repair elasticity, which was really needed on other areas of my hair didn’t have as much damage but still needed some TLC. This product definitely got the job done, although on the pricey side. Not sure what elasticity means? Click here to find out more. 

Secondly and most important, I wanted to connect with readers. As a blogger, readers look to us to be authentic and provide real-life solutions that they are unaware of for hair care. Not every woman has a dedicated stylist nor can some women afford one, so blogs serve as their primary source for natural hair education. One of the things I’ve heard since becoming a blogger is “that blogger’s hair is always perfect, I can’t relate to her.” Since I use my platform to educate, I figured what better way than to experience a situation a lot of other naturals go through as a way to properly inform others from first hand experience.

Although I decided to grow out my heat damage for nine months, this January I finally cut the remaining straight pieces off and embarked on a full year No Heat Challenge. Since then my hair has been flourishing and growing back faster than ever. Whether you decide to big chop after heat damage or grow it out gradually like me, there is no right or wrong strategy. Do what you want, fits your lifestyle, and works best for your hair.

Have you experienced heat damage? How did you deal with this? 

How I Turned My Natural Hair Hobby into a Career
Photo Courtesy of Rhea Whitney Photography
The earliest memories of my being completely obsessed with hair were around the 4th grade. There I stood in front of the mirror for hours trying to get the perfect ponytail ensuring my edges laid perfectly flat before I even knew there was a such thing as edge control. Fast forward a couple of hot-comb presses, relaxers, weaves, box braids and years later to my second career as a freelance writer and editor-in-chief of my very own natural hair blog and a store owner. To some, it may have happened overnight, but I have always known I would be in the business of helping others. Hair care has always been the thing I can talk about all day, hence my blog’s name Textured Talk, so a career educating women about the very thing that captivated my attention at 9 years old came quite naturally. Here are five ways I turned my hobby into a lucrative second career. 
Truthfully, I never expected to be compensated as a freelance writer, because I thought I needed a journalism degree.

Passion rules everything

Truthfully, I never expected anyone to compensate me to be a freelance writer.  My main goal was to write simply because I loved to do so and because I wanted to share hair care advice and information to others. Because I didn’t hold a journalism degree, I assumed my contribution would be on a voluntary basis and I was perfectly fine with that. Naive yes, but passion is the #1 factor that allowed me to kick-start being able to freelance for NaturallyCurly, book speaking engagements, and produce quality content. If you’re attempting to pursue a secondary career, make sure it is something you are passionate about versus being driven by money.

Consistency

Once I nailed down the content piece, I made a personal goal to myself to be consistent to my readers. I needed to let others know I was serious about healthy hair education and I wanted readers to see me as a go-to resource. Consistency not only allowed me to develop self-discipline for my craft, it also provided a way for readers to know what to expect from my platform. Vowing to write a new article every week, quickly turned into two articles a week and so forth. As a result, each week readers knew they would learn something new from me about natural hair that would be waiting in their inboxes. Once I could make the connection between my current blogging audience and show proof of my current following, it was easier for brands to believe in my idea for a store and really understand my passion for hair care. I wasn’t just a random person on the street wanting to buy and resell products for the heck of it. They could tell this is something I truly love and work hard doing everyday to spread natural hair education as much as possible.

Continuing education

Living in the information age where everything is easily accessible via a Google search, it is very easy to get caught up just repeating what everyone else has already written. In order to position myself as a subject matter expert, I decided to go above and beyond. Since I’m not a licensed stylist I’ve always felt the importance of seeking the counsel of professionals or site professional publications for complex subjects. In the past I’ve referenced medical journals from the National Institute of Health and purchased cosmetology books to make sure I’m providing the most honest information. Outside of writing, to become a successful blogger and boutique store owner, webinars and conferences have served as my “graduate school” for both industries. Never let the fact you do not know something hold you back from fulfilling your purpose. Chances are there are a couple of YouTube videos, e-books and podcasts out there to help get you started.

Developed organic relationships & supporting others 

Developing organic relationships is by far one of the most influential parts to my being able to start a second career in the natural hair care industry. The people and women I’ve met along the way have helped me in so many ways. Someone I met at natural hair event introduced me to my editor at here at NaturallyCurly. Attending other natural hair events gave me to opportunity to met directly with CEOs, stylists, social media managers, etc. But aside from networking, supporting others bloggers, writers, and helping new bloggers along the way helped too. This allowed me to establish relationships and get to know others outside of social media.  Networking is more than swapping business cards. Connect with people you have a genuine interest in and do not expect to automatically receive something in return.

What’s holding you back from being an entrepreneur?

How to Beat Hard Water in 3 Easy Steps
Photo by Uwe Bauch — Getty Images
We all know water is the most important ingredient when it comes to moisturizing our natural curls but did you know that not all water is created equally? Depending on your area, there are several environmental factors that can transform your water into hard water. Hard water is high mineral content, specifically magnesium and calcium. When rainwater hits the ground, the water interacts with limestone, chalk, and other elements. After interacting with the elements and also traveling through lakes and streams the water ultimately becomes hard.  
Mineral buildup from hard water causes major issues for detangling, conditioning, softness, and the overall look of your hair.

While these minerals are not considered harmful to your health, they do alter how well the water cleans your household items and your hair. According to the US Geological survey, hard water can have some benefits, since humans need minerals to stay healthy. In addition, hard water generally contributes a small amount toward total calcium and magnesium for human dietary needs. But when it comes to your hair, hard water is not your friend. Due to the mineral buildup that is deposited onto the hair cuticle from hard water, this causes major issues for detangling, conditioning, the softness and overall look of your hair. So what’s a girl to do if you live in a hard water area? Here are some key tips to building your regimen.

3 Steps to building a hard water regimen

1. First, test your water

If you are unsure if you live in a hard water area, conduct a quick lather test. Hard water usually leaves behind a white residue on glasses after rinses or washing. When lathering with dish soap, hard water will result into somewhat of a white film vs. a rich lather right away. If you for sure have hard water, the less expensive solution is to install a water filtering showerhead. The filtration will help to remove chlorine and other deposits before they interact with your hair. The more effective but also more expensive option is installing a water softener system for your home.

2. Always pre-poo

Pre-pooing is a pre-shampoo process, usually completed with oils or your favorite deep conditioner to help with manageability and detangling before the actual shampoo process. Common forms of pre-pooing include hot oil treatments or a DIY mixture of coconut oil, honey, and a banana for extra slip and conditioning. While you don’t have to be a DIY mixtress every time you shampoo, instilling a pre-poo regimen into your weekly process will help soften the hair to combat what the hard water left behind. Instead of spending hours to get through your wash day, pre-pooing can help cut that time in half.

Watch: DIY Olive Oil Pre-Poo

Chelating shampoos are designed to bind to metals, minerals and pool water chemicals in order to remove those elements from the hair.
3. Switch up your shampoos 

If you live in a hard water area, consider stepping up your shampoo game to include clarifying and chelating shampoos. If you swear by the Curly Girl Method of no-pooing, combining the no-poo method with hard water could be a problem. Perpetual co-washing, partnered with metals and minerals left behind by hard water proposes a serious problem for moisture retention and product effectiveness. Chelating shampoos like the Ion Hard Water Shampoo are designed to bind to metals, minerals, and pool water chemicals in order to remove those elements from the hair. Implement a chelating shampoo into your regimen once a month to ensure your hair is clarified and clean for healthy hair growth and optimal conditioning. Also, remember not to skip the deep conditioning sessions since clarifying and chelating shampoos can be extremely drying to the hair.

Do you live in a hard water area? What ways have you changed your regimen to ensure healthy hair? 

5 Questions Everyone Has About the LOC Method

If you have been natural for a few years more than likely you have heard of the LOC method by now.  The famous moisturizing method, coined by Alikay Naturals Founder and CEO Rochelle Graham, has become super popular in the natural hair community. The LOC method, which stands for liquid, oil and cream, is used to seal moisture into the hair. Often cited by naturalistas as a staple in their regimen, hair companies have also begun to use the LOC method to their advantage, even promoting products that align with the method. However, if you are still a little lost on how to apply the LOC method to your natural hair regimen here are a few frequently asked questions.  

What exactly is the LOC method?

LOC is an acronym for liquid, oil, and cream. It is a 3-step product application process used to seal moisture into the hair by layering products in acronym order. The liquid product serves as a foundation for moisture. Oil is used second during the process as a way to seal the moisture into the hair. The third and final step, cream, is used for styling and definition and can also be used to further seal moisture into the hair.

What products should I use for each step?

Liquid: water, leave-in conditioner, curl refresher, or hydration spray. Some choose to also start with freshly washed hair and then proceed to use an oil and cream.

Oil: carrier oils such as coconut oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil are best. Carrier oils are suggested because essential oils are too light to seal moisture into the hair. Essential oils also evaporate quickly and are best used with a carrier oil to “carry” the oil onto the scalp and skin. Some choose to use natural butters like shea butter or mango butter for this step as well.

Cream: curling cream, twist and define cream, moisturizing creams, etc.

Read more: The Ultimate LOC Shopping List

What are the benefits of the LOC method?

Moisture retention is the top benefit of using the LOC method. Moisturized hair leads to less breakage because the hair is more pliable for manipulation, which in return also means less shedding. Applying products through the LOC method allows your hairs to remain moisturized for longer periods of time without the need to refresh the style. When it seems like your hair dries out after one day, the LOC method can provide up to 2-3 days of hydrated hair is applied correctly.

What is LCO? And is this method better?

LCO is a similar method used by applying the liquid first, cream product second, then the oil-based product as the third step. Several women prefer this method since most creams are water-based products. By using the oil-based product last, some believe this will ensure all of the moisture is locked into the hair. Both the LOC and the LCO method work well. This is more of a personal preference than golden rule. My suggestion: try both to see which method works best for your texture.

Should I use the LOC method every day?

This is also a personal preference; however, application of the LOC method depends on how much product is used on a daily basis. The last thing you want is a ton of product buildup, which will prevent other products and ingredients from penetrating the hair properly for conditioning. In an attempt not to load your hair with too many heavy oils and butters one option is to refresh hair with just a liquid and cream to revamp twist-outs or braid-outs. This will get at a few more days out of your style before wash day rolls around again. Don’t forget to incorporate a clarifying shampoo into your regimen if you are using heavy oils and butters, especially with multiple applications between wash days.

Do I need to use both an oil & a cream?

Since we know each set of hair is different due to texture, density, and porosity, it is best to find a regimen that works best for your hairstyle. I often use two parts of the method depending on the ingredients. If I am using a heavy shea butter based product that has a lot of natural oils already infused, all I need to add is a liquid. Just the liquid and butter is enough to seal moisture into my strands for the next few days.

Overall, there are several natural hair regimens and methods used to maintain healthy hair.  From DIY protein conditioners, to henna, banana, and honey deep conditioners to tea rinses. There will always be something new to try. Figure out what works for your hair and work from there.

Do you enjoy the LOC method? Why or why not? If no, what other methods do you use?

The Difference Between Faux Locs and Loc Extensions, According to a Professional
Photo Courtesy of Gina
If you haven’t noticed faux locs have been everywhere over the past year and has quickly made their prominence as highly sought out protective style. However, many seem to confuse faux locs and loc extensions, sometimes using the term interchangeably. So, before you run to the nearest beauty supply store to pick up a few packs of Marley hair or go to a stylist, here is the full scoop on the difference.   

Faux locs

Faux locs are a temporary protective style similar to box braids whereas loc extensions are intended to be a permanent extension of your hair. Faux locs are installed by twisting or braiding the real hair and then wrapping additional hair around the shaft of the braid/twist. Usually installed with Marley hair, Kanekalon hair, or yarn, the wrapping technique creates the appearance of locs. This is temporary protective style similar to box braids whereas loc extensions are intended to be a permanent extension of your hair.

Loc extensions

Loc extensions on the other are more extensive, so I reached out to a professional to make sure all the correct details are provided. According to Paulette Anderson, owner of LocStar! Natural Hair Salon and Spa, loc extensions are installed with only human hair, and it is important that the density ratio of the attached hair matches the ratio density of the real hair growing from the scalp. Also, when properly done loc extensions can be left in permanently as the natural locs grow.

Which style is best for me?

Faux locs are great for those who want the appearance of locs without the permanent commitment. This style is also a great way to try a new protective style if you are going on vacation or have thought about getting permanent locs and want to test out the style first.

Loc extensions might be for you if you have always wanted locs but were hesitant to make a full commitment. Extensions will allow you to achieve your desired length immediately. These are also perfect for the person who has had a difficult time in the past transitioning from loose to locked hair. They are also great if you currently have locs that are damaged due to color or thinning.

How should loc extensions be maintained?

Maintaining your loc extensions mimics the real locking process. Maintenance is normally done every 2-4 weeks: cleansing the scalp, palm rolling the new growth, drying, hydrating, and then locking in moisture with a light oil. But, the best thing you can do is actually leave them alone.

“Although loc extensions are a quick fix for an immediate desired look, they still need to mat and intertwine just as if it was the customer’s real hair.” says Paulette. “Less is more, meaning the less the manipulation the better.”

Best practices for maintaining loc extensions, according to Paulette 

  • The first 3-4 months the focus should be on scalp health and hair growth. Keep the hair extremely clean with witch hazel, Sea Breeze, or a sulfate-free shampoo.
  • Use a spray bottle with water to keep the scalp hydrated and moisturize with conditioning spray like Amazing Botanicals Aloe Mint Spritzer, Obia Natural Hair Care Curl Hydration Spray, and LRC Hair Care Shake N Go. This is important after using extremely drying products like witch hazel and Sea Breeze.
  • Lock in moisture with light oils and cover the hair at night with satin scarf or bonnet. Try Amazing Botanical Blend Oil, Alikay Naturals Loc OilAlikay Naturals 17 Essentials Hair Growth Oil, vitamin E oil, argan oil, or jojoba oil.
  • After installation your stylist should do the first saturated shampoo around week 8. At this time the stylist is checking the progress of the matting and intertwining of the loc extensions and overall growth. By this time the new growth hair should now be able to start palm rolling, beginning the locking process on the client’s natural hair.

Finding a salon or stylist to install faux locs or loc extensions

Remember consultations are your best friend. Take time to really research the stylist to know if they are qualified and trained in performing these styles. Ask about past clients, look for reviews, and pay attention to pictures.

“Although the faux loc and loc extension installation process is similar, just because a person can do faux locs doesn’t mean they understand the concept of properly installing permanent loc extensions.” – Paulette Anderson, Owner of Loc Star! Natural Hair and Spa

Be sure to seek out pictures of how the style looks after extended periods of time like after 6 months, 12 months, and over a year. Schedule a consultation and have the stylist demonstrate an install of at least one loc extension so that desired size, length, and look can be agreed upon.

What are your thoughts? Will you try either one of these styles?

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Why Did SheaMoisture Add New Tubes to Their Packaging?

Like many of you with textured hair, I am used to SheaMoisture rolling out new product lines every year. I am always curious to know what magical concoction they will come up with to make my hair jump for joy. Earlier this year, SheaMoisture released their porosity sensitive line, which definitely piqued my interest. However, it was the release of their new tube packaging three weeks ago that caused me to do a double take. The Instagram post announcement garnered over 500 comments alone. SheaMoisture has been listening to their community and taking customer feedback seriously. In case you missed it, we have the full breakdown on everything you want to know about the new SheaMoisture packaging. 

According to SheaMoisture, the new convenient tubes are easier to squeeze, address bathroom storage space, and are conducive for long-term travel needs with more streamlined full-size packaging. Also, SheaMoisture updated the labels for more legibility to clearly point out what’s not included in their products, like no parabens, phthalates, paraffin formaldehyde, propylene glycol, mineral oil, synthetic fragrance, synthetic color, DEA, petroleum, and no animal testing. The Community Commerce heart logo also serves as a reminder that community empowerment is at the center of everything SheaMoisture does.

Our community members are co-creators at SheaMoisture and factor into everything we do.”-Richelieu Dennis, Founder and CEO of Sundial Brands

After reading through the 500 plus comments on their Instagram post, including Shea Moisture’s response to just about every comment, question, and concern, here are the top things you should know.

  • Customers asked for smaller sizes because the old bottles took up too much space in their bathroom. As a result, new 10 oz. tubes were created.
  • What about the price? Not to worry, the smaller tubes also come with a lower price.
  • The new tube packaging is more travel friendly than the classic bottles and jars.
  • However, SheaMoisture will continue to have the classic bottles and jars originally released.
  • Customers also asked for the lotion to be in a squeezable tube, especially for the SheaMoisture Baby collection, and people are now extremely happy for this change.
  • The new tube packaging is slowly rolling out so continue to check your local stores. If you cannot find what you need locally, remember you can always get the new tubes online.

As for the customer feedback Dennis further added, “We love to hear from our amazing community about their needs, what does and doesn’t work, and ways that we can serve them better. We appreciate hearing from them on our social media channels, through their video reviews, at our events and shows, as well as via our customer service through inquiries and input.”

If you want to continue to provide feedback to SheaMoisture about your concerns and provide personal feedback email – support@sheamoisture.com or leave a comment on their Instagram. Trust me, someone will answer. If you do not believe me, check out the comments section.

What do you think about the new tube packaging from SheaMoisture? 

Why I’m Giving Up Heat for a Year

There is nothing I love more than a great blow-out on my natural hair. My hair is fuller than my relaxed hair days and the shine is amazing. However, in 2016 I am giving up my love for the flat iron and going heatless for a whole year. Why? Heat damage.  

The initial damage occurred in early 2015.  After a routine trim and blow-out I noticed the back, left side of my hair was permanently straight post wash day a week later. Although precautions with deep conditioning and heat protectants were used, the particular flat ironed used was simply too hot for my fine texture. Finely textured hair is delicate, more prone to breakage and does not require a lot of heat to become straight. Depending on your hair’s texture, width, and elasticity, certain tools, even with precautions, can still cause heat damage if the temperature is too hot.

After eight months of being fed up with trying to style my heat damaged curls, spending extra time getting the damaged strands to mimic my healthy curls, I finally cut the remaining pieces in January 2016. This officially started my year of no heat. I launched the #NoHeatChallenge2016 on social media with other women to build a community of support and surprisingly the response has been amazing! There were so many other women who also wanted to reduce the use of heat styling on their hair but felt lost or nervous to do so.

What exactly is considered no heat?

  • No flat ironing
  • No blow-outs, unless otherwise noted by a professional for trims
  • No curling irons or curling wands

What do I hope to get from this challenge?

  • Healthier, thicker hair
  • Enhanced curl definition   
  • A new arsenal of hairstyling options. From twisted updos, crown braids, buns, and cute head wraps I plan to have a ton of fun styling this year. 

5 Rules to Minimize Heat Damage

If a giving up heat for complete year is not an option for you, here are five cardinal rules to help minimize your exposure to heat damage.

Be smart about heat styling options
All flat irons are not created equal. The heat distribution between a ceramic and titanium flat iron differs and could result in damage if not used correctly depending on your texture. Limit daily heat styling. If you are wearing a sew-in to transition, opt for using a scarf and edge control to lay down your edges versus heat. 
Always start with a clean slate

Clean moisturized hair is the first step to combating heat damaged hair. The hair should be washed thoroughly with a clarifying shampoo to remove all buildup, which will allow for a quick smooth pass when straightening. 

Focus on conditioners with protein

These will to help bring a healthy level of elasticity back to your curls. Healthy, strong strands require a balance of protein and moisture. The absence of either will produce weak strands that snap easily. Hydrolyzed proteins are the best at attaching to the hair shaft for strengthening.

Read more: 6 Proteins that Must Be Hydrolyzed…If You Want Them to Work

Use heat protectant labeled products

Although natural oils work wonders for conditioning and moisturizing your hair not all natural oils protect the inner cortex of the hair cuticle from heat. A high smoke point of a natural oil does make it a heat protectant. Heat protectants contain silicone ingredients like amodimethicone that create a thin barrier to minimize the damage of heat due to the silicone’s low thermal conductivity.

Read more: Heat Protectants: The Buildup that Actually Saves Your Hair and Why Oil Doesn’t Work As a Heat Protectant

Maintain consistency!

Consistently deep condition, consistently moisturize, etc. Overall, you have to train your curls all over again. Naturally curly hair loves moisture so give your hair what it needs.

Want to join give up heat and join the #NoHeat2016Challenge with me? Visit here for more info! 

But Do Mayonnaise Hair Treatments Work?

Homemade conditioners have been popular for some time, and as more women look to approaching their hair care needs from a health perspective first, I assume that the popularity will not subside.  There are several popular DIY conditioning recipes and common everyday kitchen ingredients naturally curly women use from avocado, honey, and of course, the often raved about mayonnaise. Our recipe for How To Do a Mayonnaise is one of the most popular articles on NaturallyCurly, and has been for years. We know women love doing them, but do mayonnaise treatments actually work?

Does mayonnaise work as a protein treatment?

No. Though the eggs and mayonnaise combination has been touted as a quick homemade protein treatment to strengthen the hair and prevent breakage, this is a false claim. This combination does not work as a protein treatment because the protein in eggs is too large to fit into the cuticle. In order for these amino acids to make it into your hair shaft, they must be hydrolyzed. Hydrolyzed proteins can be found in protein treatments and deep conditioners, read here for a list of the proteins that will work. Unfortunately, an egg or mayonnaise treatment is not going to do the job.

Does mayonnaise make your hair softer and shinier?

Yes it can. Anecdotally, many of our readers have noted that their hair was softer and shinier after using a mayonnaise treatment, but to validate this claim let’s take a closer look at what is actually in mayonnaise and how those ingredients affect the hair.

Ingredients of mayonnaise

We looked at the label of a regular jar of Hellmann’s Mayonnaise and found that it contains:
  • Soybean oil
  • Water
  • Whole eggs and egg yolks
  • Vinegar
  • Salt
  • Sugar
  • Lemon Juice
  • Calcium disodium EDTA
  • Natural flavors

The benefits

Soybean oil
Soybean oil is a vegetable oil made from extracting the seeds of the soybean. It has nutrients such as vitamin K and lipids that helps to fight against breakage, split ends, and dryness. With one of the highest amounts of omega 6 fatty acids than any other oil, according to the University of Marylandsoybean oil also helps to stimulate skin and hair growth. The most obvious benefit of soybean oil is its ability to provide amazing and unparalleled shine, another reason why it is a popular ingredient in the hair industry. Soybean oil is not as greasy as other oils and for this reason is commonly used in shampoos and conditioners to keep the moisture balance and add softness. 
Eggs
Women love to use eggs on our hair and for good reason, as there are numerous qualities about this common kitchen ingredient.  Although the proteins in eggs are too large to attach to the hair’s cuticle, the array of vitamins found in eggs makes up for that loss and both the egg white and the yolk are beneficial to use on the hair. Vitamin A helps with hair loss and to prevent dandruff by increasing your natural sebum production.  Vitamin B found in the yolk of the egg supplies oxygen to the hair and improve blood circulation.  Lack of vitamin B can lead to malnourished hair and has the potential to stunt hair growth, making the hair brittle.  Eggs also contain vitamin D and E as well as fatty acids, which all help with healthy hair growth, flaky scalp and shine.  Eggs work so well with mayonnaise because it is said both work together to seal the cuticle and lock in moisture for longer lasting results. Since both the egg white and yolk have benefits, there’s no need to choose in order to reap the full benefits. 
Vinegar
Although white vinegar is sometimes used as a common household cleaner and apple cider vinegar is more popular among curlies, the actual process of making both are similar.  White vinegar is made from fermenting grains and apple cider vinegar from fermenting fruit such as apples. Distilled white vinegar usually has a pH around 2.4, while apple cider vinegar will have a pH of about 4.25 to 5.0. A lower pH means the solution is more acidic. Since apple cider vinegar is closer to the natural pH healthy hair, it is more popular among naturally curly women and used for clarifying and restoring pH balance to the hair. Overall, due to the low pH of white vinegar it has the potential to play a role in mayonnaise to further help seal the hair cuticle to retain moisture. 
Lemon juice

Lemon juice is amazing because it contains high amounts of folic acid, vitamin B, and calcium. It is commonly used to treat dry, itchy scalp when combined with olive oil and honey as a pre-poo treatment, it is also extremely drying due to the citric acid. Always combine lemon juice with another carrier oil for added moisture. Another option is combining lemon juice and coconut water for another quick homemade conditioning mix. Lemon juice is also commonly known to be a safe way to lighten your hair.

Similar to apple cider vinegar, use lemon juice diluted with water to remove product buildup from the scalp followed by shampoo and deep conditioning.

Calcium Disodium EDTA

According to the FDA, calcium disodium EDTA is a food additive used as a preservative in certain foods and use to promote color retention. EDTA in hair products, however, is used to bind metal ions and prevent metals from being deposited onto the hair, scalp and skin. EDTA is very popular in chelating shampoos, which are of great use if you live in a hard water area. Hard water is water with high mineral content, specifically magnesium and calcium, so the EDTA ingredient helps to remove those metals and create softer, tangle-free hair. Just in case you are suspicious about EDTA, CosmeticsInfo.org also notes this ingredient is widely used and can be found in moisturizers, skin care and cleansing products, personal cleanliness products, bath soaps, shampoos and conditioners, hair dyes, hair bleaches, and many other product types.

Homemade mayonnaise

Interested in making a DIY mayo treatment instead?  Here’s a quick homemade recipe that only requires 4 natural ingredients: 

What you’ll need:

  • 3-4 Egg yolks
  • 1 Tbsp. of lemon juice or apple cider vinegar
  • ⅔ cup of olive oil
  • ⅔ cup of warmed coconut oil

For consumption purposes mustard, salt and pepper are suggested to add to the recipe, but that is not necessary for the hair treatment.

Overall, mayonnaise treatments do work and are great for adding shine and softness to the hair. But if you prefer to not waste your kitchen ingredients, you can achieve similar results by doing traditional pre-poo or hot oil treatments and deep conditioning. Whether you prefer to purchase Hellmann’s Mayonnaise or make your own, as you can see the core ingredients and benefits are just about the same.  

What are your thoughts about mayonnaise for the hair? Does it work for you?

Oil Rinsing vs. Hot Oil Treatments: No They’re Not the Same
Photo Courtesy of Nelly
Ever wondered the difference between an oil rinse and a hot oil treatment? While both of these curly hair treatments might appear to be the same thing, they are actually quite different.

One major difference is that hot oil treatments are typically applied before shampooing your hair, while oil rinsing is usually done after shampooing the hair, right before applying conditioner. The differences don’t stop there, keep reading to determine what’s best for you!

hot oil treatments are typically applied before shampooing your hair, while oil rinsing is usually done after shampooing

Oil rinsing

Oil rinsing is a step usually completed after shampooing the hair right before applying conditioner.  Once the hair is clean and while the hair is still soaking wet, a generous amount of oil is applied all over the hair coating everything from root to tip. Penetrating oils such as olive, coconut, and avocado oils are recommended for use due to their low molecular composition, which enable them to bind to the water inside the hair cuticle to prevent hygral fatigue. Conditioner can be applied while the oil is still in the hair followed by a final water rinsing session removing the excess oil and conditioner. Oil rinsing also helps with fighting against excessive drying during the shampoo process, as it seals moisture into the hair.  The other added benefit of oil rinsing is the ability to add natural oils back into the hair, which could have been stripped away while shampooing.

Benefits of oil rinsing
  • Prevents dryness from shampoo
  • Seals in moisture
  • Easier detangling / reduction in single strand knots
  • Increased moisture
  • Reduced frizz
  • Prevention of hygral fatigue
  • More soft, shiny, and manageable curls
The cons

Although oil rinsing reaps tons of benefits for your curls, there are drawbacks. Continuous oil rinsing without properly clarifying or cleansing the scalp at least once a month can rapidly accumulate product buildup, attracting more dirt and dust. Clarifying regularly is an important step in your curly regimen to ensure the hair and scalp are clean, which allows other products and moisture to further penetrate.

How to oil rinse

After you shampoo and before you condition, apply a carrier oil to your hair the same way you would a conditioner. Massage the oil from the roots to your ends, completely coating your hair. Allow the oil to set for a few minutes and then rinse it. Follow up with your daily conditioner. For a full guide to oil rinsing, read here.

Hot oil treatment

Hot oil treatments on the other hand are typically used as a pre-poo option, meaning the oil is applied before shampooing your hair. Pre-pooing is also a step used to combat hygral fatigue. Any oil of your choice is heated slightly and applied directly to the scalp to fight dandruff and severely dry hair.  Hot oil treatments can be applied to dry or slightly damp hair. Furthermore, once the hot oil is applied, sitting under a hooded dryer or using a plastic conditioning cap for 15 – 20 minutes will allow the oil to penetrate deeper. With this method you will still be able to obtain soft and shiny hair even though hot oil treatments focus more on the scalp.

What You Will Need
  • Oil of your choice. Try one of these top 5 oils for hot oil treatments.
  • Plastic applicator bottle
  • Plastic conditioning cap
  • Large cup, bowl, or pot of boiling water
How to do a hot oil treatment
  1. Gather 1 cup of oil or oil blend of your choice.
  2. Pour oil into plastic applicator bottle.
  3. Sit plastic applicator bottle into larger cup of hot water, bowl or pot of boiled water to warm
  4. Test temperature of oil on top the back of your hand before applying to scalp
  5. Apply warmed oil to scalp and slightly damp hair, massaging thoroughly
  6. Cover with plastic cap and allow oil to sit for 15-20 min. (Sitting under hooded dryer optional”>
  7. Shampoo and condition according to your normal routine 
Follow Nelly (pictured above”> here: Muse Uniform and Instagram

Which method do you prefer for your curls? What has been your experience? 

Can You Prevent and Reverse Gray Hair?
older ladies with gray hair
Photo Courtesy of Getty Images
According to texture specialist and professional stylist Marissa Robinson of DC’s Bill Lawrence Salon, scientifically, gray hair cannot be reverted or prevented, only coated with hair color to change appearance:

“High pigment antioxidants such as carrots can help promote pigment forming stem cells, which also aid in the production of melanin; however, gray hair cannot be prevented or reverted. As you age your body does not regenerate cells in high frequency as it does when you are younger, causing gray hair.”

Why does hair gray?

Canities, the technical term for gray hair, is the diminishing of pigment in the hair, which produces a range of colors visually perceived as gray. When the hair stops producing melanin, graying occurs. The decrease of melanin in the hair is due to the decrease of a crucial enzyme called catalase. Catalase plays an important role in breaking down hydrogen peroxide buildup in the body. When the catalase enzyme is decreased and no longer breaks down the hydrogen peroxide, it hinders melanin growth ultimately resulting in gray hair.

Does stress cause graying?

Also, contrary to popular belief, if you suddenly start to experience graying hair, do not rush to judgment thinking stress is the main factor. “Genetics are directly related to gray hair, as stress is not scientifically proven to be the sole cause, but it is a common one.” Robinson adds. While stress is a common factor, it is also important to note other factors that also lead to gray hair.

What causes gray hair:

Additional factors that contribute to gray hair and affect hair pigmentation:

  • Certain ethnicities gray faster than others
  • Daily lifestyle habits and Improper diet- smoking has is often cited as factor as well as the lack of vitamin B12, iron, and iodine 
  • Toxins, chemical exposure/hair dyes
  • Hormones and diseases 

Premature hair graying (PHG”> is another concern for not only women but men as well.  A recent study by the National Center for Biotechnology Information, set out to evaluate risk factors correlated to premature hair graying. Although the study was not conducted on women, the NCIB concluded smoking, family history, and obesity were all important factors associated with premature graying.

More on reversing gray hair

Although these practices are not FDA approved, there are talks that certain Ayurvedic remedies can combat or reverse gray hair. According to Organicfacts.net, dried powder of Indian gooseberry mixed with coconut oil and amaranth leaves are both sufficient treatments since they help restore hair color.  These remedies along with countless other home concoctions such as onion juice, alma oil, sesame oil, and carrot juice are all said to reverse or prevent gray hair; however, the jury is still out on these treatments.

What home remedies have you tried for preventing gray hair?

What’s So Special About the New SheaMoisture 100% Coconut Oil?

SheaMoisture is a brand that many naturally curly women trust and depend on to expand their collections to cater to their every beauty need. This year SheaMoisture launched the Zanzibar Marine Complex for color-treated hair and protection. So, what is the recent addition to the SheaMoisture arsenal? Last month the brand introduced the SheaMoisture 100% Extra Virgin Coconut Oil. It is no secret that coconut oil is a staple in most women’s hair regimen but the big questions is what makes the SheaMoisture coconut oil so special compared to the coconut oil available at your local grocery store?

Founder and CEO of SheaMoisture Richelieu Dennis says: “Coconut oil is so good for the hair and scalp, and is an ingredient we use in many of our SheaMoisture products to help nourish curls. Virgin coconut oil is special because it isn’t refined. This preserves all the natural goodness of this wonder oil, including a high content of vitamin E, fatty acids and minerals, which are typically lost in processing.”

The difference between virgin coconut oil and ordinary coconut oil is in the extraction process.  Refined coconut oil is produced from dried coconuts whereas virgin coconut oil is extracted from the fresh meat of the coconut. Processes like quick drying allows the fresh coconut meat to be dried promptly and then mechanically pressed. High heat is also used with refined coconut oil to remove the distinct smell and flavor and sometimes sodium hydroxide is added to prolong shelf life. If you prefer the nutty flavor and smell than virgin, unrefined coconut oil is your best choice.

As the tagline “Head to Toe Hydration” states, the SheaMoisture 100% Virgin Coconut Oil is also great for the body and skin. Its emollient properties not only help to penetrate the hair, but it can also absorb quickly into the skin often helping to relieve an itchy scalp and aid with eczema and psoriasis.

Cocktail suggestion

Celebrity stylist and SheaMoisture Beauty Ambassador Diane C. Bailey adds, “Coconut oil is a curly girl elixir! I recommend this all-natural pre-shampoo treatment recipe, which helps to support healthy growth, intensely moisturize, soothe scalp irritation and leave hair shiny and silky.” Below is Bailey’s cocktail suggestion:

In a small bowl mix the following:

  • 5-10 drops of rosemary essential oil
  • 2-4 tablespoons of SheaMoisture 100% Virgin Coconut Oil (depending on length of hair”>
  • 1 tablespoon of manuka honey

After mixing follow these directions for to pre-poo.

  1. Massage into the scalp and work evenly through hair, from roots to ends.
  2. Cover hair with a plastic cap and leave on for 30 min.
  3. Shampoo thoroughly.

The Shea Moisture 100% Virgin Coconut Oil is can be found online at Harmon Face Values or at Bed Bath and Beyond.

Will you add this product to your list? 

Editor’s note: This post is not sponsored. 

Un’ruly Explores What it Means to be "Pretty"

The documentary series Pretty produced by Un’Ruly explores different ideas of beauty across the globe. Un’Ruly founder Antonia has interviewed over a dozen women from London, Milan, and Paris gaining insight into how each woman defines the word pretty. While we often use pretty to describe someone’s outer appearance, each woman shares their in-depth perceptions of beauty, revealing how they conceive the idea of beauty. 
 “Pretty is knowing you are enough.” –Fatima, London

As I sifted through each video one by one not only did I want to hop on the first flight to London due to the insanely beautiful fashion, but I found myself connecting to the women, sharing similar experiences with accepting what the world stipulates as pretty. Unsurprisingly the media played an integral role in the acceptance of beauty in these cities too, which is an issue that transcends cultures. Although each woman described beauty by her own standards laced with extreme confidence and self-awareness, they acknowledged the lack of black representation in the media. While black beauty and fashion are often seen on the streets of a melting pot like London, the mass representation in the media does not reflect that.

“I might not feel represented in the media but I’m not heartbroken because I represent myself. I don’t need the media to represent me and the women I know and love represent themselves too.” – Melinda, London 

Still aware of what the mainstream standards of beauty are for certain areas, for example English Rose in London, these women felt comfortable in their skin knowing those typical standards do not define who they are. Fredamily, a black model in Italy, remembers signing with her agency and being told it would be difficult because she is “not so tall” and “so black”. Fredamily is taking her model opportunity to prove to herself that against all odds she can still make it in the beauty industry in Milan.

Beauty is sisterhood.” –Grazia, Milan

The increasing preference and acceptance of natural hair over the past few years has created a space for women of all tones and textures who look like me, which is very exciting. Accepting my own beauty in the beginning of my natural hair journey eight years ago took time. Platforms like NaturallyCurly and Un’Ruly continue to push for positive images, which helps women feel more comfortable with one tip and one narrative at a time.

Pretty series

Are you following this awesome series? What does pretty mean to you?

Why Your Moisturizer Doesn’t Work

If there is ever a topic you need to understand as a naturally curly girl, then pH balance is one of them. The potential of hydrogen, also known as pH, is the measurement of how alkaline or acidic a substance is and significantly controls how the cuticle layers of the hair react to products. Measured on a logarithmic scale from 0 to 14, substances with a pH between 0 and 6.9 are acidic, 7 is neutral, while substances between 7.1 and 14 are alkaline. For example, relaxers rank higher on the scale with a pH normally around 13, pure water is neutral at 7, and apple cider vinegar (undiluted”> is on the opposite side of the scale around 3. What does this mean for you? A higher pH substance or product on the scale opens the cuticle and lower pH closes the cuticle.  

Why is the hair cuticle so important?

Cuticle layers play a very important role in the health of your strands since it is the first barrier of protection against the inner cortex of the hair shaft. To further explain the importance of pH balance I contacted chemist and CEO of Obia Natural Hair Care Obia Ewah to lend professional and scientific knowledge about the importance of pH in hair care products.

According to Obia, pH is particularly important for people with naturally curly hair because it is a way to close the cuticle without the use of heavy oils and creams, using lighter products instead. Since the pattern of naturally curly hair makes maintaining a closed cuticle more difficult, using products that are properly pH balanced is an alternative way to close the cuticle besides other methods like temperature. Closed cuticles prevent damage and breakage, reduce dryness and frizz, and seal moisture. Since healthy human hair as a pH between 4.5 and 5.5, the goal is for your hair to maintain a pH around that level.

pH balance and products

If you ever wondered why we shampoo first and condition next, the answer also lies within pH balance. Obia states that clarifying shampoos contain a higher pH, normally around an 8, opening the cuticle to infuse water and immensely cleanse in order to remove buildup, which is the purpose of a clarifying shampoo. However, if nothing is done to lower the pH afterwards, then the cuticle remains open, leading dry hair and potential damage. This is where conditioners come into play, as they are formulated with a lower pH to restore the moisture balance by closing the cuticle after shampooing. Furthermore, leave-in conditioners should have the lowest pH, which is why it is used as the finishing product in most regimens. Again, the goal is for the hair to main its natural pH level between 4.5 and 5.5. Aside from a clarifying shampoo, seek a moisturizing shampoo with a pH close to 4.5 or 5.5 as well.

Obia also notes how pH also plays a significant role in continuous co-washing

Given conditioners are normally on the lower end of the pH scale and are not as alkaline as shampoos, perpetual co-washing can lead to product buildup over time since the pH is not high enough the actually open the cuticle to cleanse the hair.
A healthy hair regimen should include a clarifying shampoo at least once a month.

Obia Ewah of Obia Natural Hair Care

How can I ensure my hair is properly pH balanced?

Using products that explicitly state they are pH balanced is the most effective way to ensure your hair is properly balanced; however, Obia also shares these effective options:

  • Use pH-testing stripsWhile this option might seem like a lot of work some women prefer testing their products at home with plastic pH testing strips, saving time and money on purchasing products. You might as well tests your products with pH strips before using them, so you can return them if you want to.
  • Use an entire hair care collection. Using products from the same hair care line has more benefits than just a bundle deal sale. If formulated correctly, the hair care line should be created from high to low in pH based on the order of how the products are used for optimal hair care. Ever wondered why a certain product flakes when mixed with other brands? Obia also warns of mixing products from different lines because they might not be formulated to work together. An adverse reaction, like flaking, could occur when mixing a leave-in conditioner from one line with a twisting butter from another line.
  • Contact the company directly. If the pH is not explicitly listed on the product label, contact the company directly through email to ask if the products are pH balanced or to inquire about the pH level of a specific product within a collection. 
  • Pay attention to how your hair feels. More than usual tangles and single stranded knots is a first sign of products that are not pH balanced. If your cuticles remain open, it has greater potential for tangles versus hair with smooth closed cuticles.
Follow Obia here: Facebook and Instagram

Are you a stickler about pH balance? How has this changed your use of products?

This Is How Those "100 Years of Beauty" Videos Get Made
100 Years of Beauty: USA from Cut.com
For the past two months, a video series entitled 100 Years of Beauty, featuring historic to modern beauty looks among different countries, has had everyone talking, sharing, posting, and tweeting. These riveting videos portray ten different looks over 100 years in a 60 to 90 second time lapse. Featured countries so far have included the United States, Iran, North and South Korea, and most recently Mexico. Naturally, no pun intended, we were intrigued and wanted to know who was responsible. Here is our one on one interview with the Co-Founder and Creative Director of Cut.com, Mike Gaston. 

Cut has created several videos from parenting, to relationships and a few political videos. What was the inspiration behind creating the 100 Years of Beauty series?

My producer, Blaine, pitched the idea of doing a time lapse capturing women going through different styles over time. Really it was all about featuring technique (time lapse”> through the lens of fashion, but as we began the process of researching different looks it became clear that there was an opportunity to create something a bit more contemplative. By doing subsequent episodes on people from different cultures, genders, sexes, body types, and sexual orientations we could create a series that invited the audience to do their own reflection on how culture understands beauty. We decided that we wanted to show how cultural standards of beauty change over time and then get people to question the influences that cause the changes.

At the end of each video viewers are asked to comment and request which country he or she would like to see next.  How does Cut decide which country to choose out of the thousands of requests?

It’s fairly arbitrary. A lot of it depends on how long the research will take and whether or not we feel confident in our ability to be authentic and respectful to a culture. Though, the comments have had an impact. There are a few countries we weren’t originally considering that are now on our list. Russia is one.

100 Years of Beauty: USA (Marshay”> from Cut.com

The biggest thing viewers want to know is how is the research conducted? What components go into producing 10 different looks to accurately portray beauty in each country over the past 100 years?

There is a ton of research put into every piece. Every video has at least one researcher attached to the project. That researcher works with the producer/director and the hair and makeup artists to determine the looks and the justification behind each look. In the case of our piece on Iran we had two researchers. One of whom was recommended to us by a professor in the Persian studies department at the University of Washington where she is pursuing a major with a focus on the history of fashion. She also happens to be Persian. For a recent piece on the Philippines I tapped my cousin who is a PhD candidate in Anthropology at the University of Washington (UW”>. He is also half Filipino (as am I”>. The research goes out to people to review and critique before we decide on our looks. Every bit of research is sourced. Some of this sourcing comes from the internet but most of it is gathered offline from actual brick and mortar libraries like Suzzallo at the UW.

Comments on YouTube, good and bad, have really sparked conversation around what is considered the standard of beauty for each country. Did Cut expect the overwhelming feedback from viewers and does it affect how Cut creates videos going forward?

We thought this series could be popular, but we were all surprised by the response. We get it now. At its best this series can highlight major cultural shifts in a way that’s respectful and honest, hopefully even insightful. At its worst it can be seen as superficial and even cartoon-ish. Style is subjective and everyone thinks they are experts on their own country, so I’m no longer surprised by the radical differences of opinion our work tends to spark. The feedback hasn’t changed the way we approach the work (we always try to make videos that are true”>, but it has had an impact on how we view some of the pieces after the fact.

I love every comment whether it’s an instant reaction or if it comes from a place of sincere reflection. I’m grateful that people spend any time with our videos and I try to read every comment. That’s become impossible. But I will go through and spend a portion of my day reading and responding.

100 Years of Beauty: Iran from Cut.com

Continuing the topic on the standard of beauty, how significant are these videos to educating the masses to unknown beauty trends in other areas of the world?

I don’t know. To me these pieces are less about identifying different trends and more like every day-anthropology. These videos aren’t really about seeing what’s next as much as they are about acknowledging what has already come to pass.

To me these pieces are less about identifying different trends and more like every day-anthropology.

Can you tell us what’s next for the 100 Years of Beauty series? A particular country? Viewers have also commented on a male version of the series. Is this something Cut would consider as well?

Sure. Our piece on the Philippines is coming out next and stars my cousin April. We’re also planning some very different pieces that aren’t necessarily country focused including a couple of pieces featuring male looks. We’ve been planning the male looks since our very first piece. The biggest obstacle here is in finding models willing to let us cut their hair!

If you haven’t seen the videos, check them out for yourself on YouTube.

Have you been following this series? We love it!

How to Tell a High Quality Oil from a Low Quality Oil

The quality of ingredients in hair products is more important now than ever before. Buyers are more conscious of what is placed in their hair and the benefits that will enhance the health of their strands over time. Brands proudly boast of their products being free of sulfates, parabens, and mineral oil to appeal to the newly savvy buyer. However, the biggest question I have found as I too become more sophisticated in purchasing products is how does one determine the grade and quality of the ingredient listed on the label, specifically natural and essential oils?

High quality vs. low quality oil

Curls CEO Mahisha Dellinger states there is absolutely a difference in quality when it comes to hair oils and always suggest sourcing organic oils whenever possible. Here are a few warning signs she suggests looking for when shopping for oils for your hair:

  • Scent – Low quality oils tend to have a rancid smell. Smell before you buy if possible.
  • Bottle – Check to see if the oil is packaged in a cheap plastic bottle. Chances are the oil itself is cheap oil blend. Certain oils like argan oil cannot be stored in plastic bottles.
  • Ingredients – How many ingredients are listed on the label for your oil? A high quality oil blend should just have one ingredient, 100% XYZ oil.

More about argan oil

Argan oil sometimes labeled as Argania spinosa kernel oil and often noted as “liquid gold” has amazing qualities for hair and skin. Here are a few additional ways to tell if your argan oil is of high quality:

  • As mentioned above, argan oil should always be packaged in a dark colored glass bottle. Light breaks down this oil’s properties, so if it is stored in a clear bottle it is not 100%.
  • Argan oil is also often priced on the higher side; low quality oil will also be partnered with a low price.
  • Check the texture. The oil should be smooth and silky, not sticky and watery when applied to the skin.
  • Cosmetic argan oil is a golden, yellow color. If your argan oil is too light it might be diluted with other oils.

Refined vs. virgin coconut oil

Coconut oil, often listed by its scientific name Cocos nucifera, is frequently found as an ingredient in hair care products due to the impressive moisturizing and conditioning properties. An interesting thing to note is there are two grades of each. Here’s how to tell which grade you have:

  • Refined coconut oil has a neutral scent and flavor. It is made from dried coconuts and can be heated up to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. 
  • Virgin oil on the other hand has a true coconut scent and flavor since it is made from fresh coconuts. Virgin coconut oil can be heated up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. 
Both grades provide the same level of benefits for the hair and skin so the decision is more of a personal preference for most women.

Do you care about the grade and quality of your ingredients? Is this important to you?

Do You Over-Moisturize Your Hair? Understanding Hygral Fatigue

curly hair with glasses

Upon reading the title of this article one could immediately see this question as a no-brainer. After all, everyone talks about the importance of moisture and deep conditioning so how is this even possible, right? Well, you can have too much of a good thing, and before you decide to keep scrolling on to the next article, there are a few points you should know about hygral fatigue.  

What Is Hygral Fatigue?

Hygral fatigue is the result of constant, excessive swelling of the hair cuticle as water is absorbed and the contracting of the hair cuticle as it dries. Often associated with porosity issues, this continual swelling and contracting can lead to weaker strands over time, causing the hair to stretch beyond normal and eventually lead to breakage. In essence, the hair shaft is working overtime when too much water penetrates and leaves the hair quickly. Although everyone’s hair and texture are unique, here are a few things you may be practicing right now without knowing the potential harm:

  • Perpetual overnight conditioning
  • Deep conditioning longer than the recommended use
  • Rewetting a wash & go style daily without allowing the hair to completely dry
  • Solely using moisturizing conditioners that are void of protein

So what’s a girl to do to prevent hygral fatigue without fearing a simple wash day?

The Balancing Act

The key to avoiding hygral fatigue is having the proper balance between moisture and protein. According to The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair, if the protein structure is intact then the hair fiber will resist excessive expansion when wet, so ensuring a proper protein structure through timely conditioning is essential. Therefore, you should create a hair regimen that alternates between moisturizing and protein-based conditioners throughout the month. Check for ingredients in your deep conditioners such as hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed keratin, and hydrolyzed silk protein, which will help restore the needed balance and repair weakness all in one step. Solely using a moisturizing conditioner that is void of protein does not provide strengthening properties and may eventually lead to breakage.

Read more: 6 Proteins that Must Be Hydrolyzed if You Want Them to Work

Preventing Hygral Fatigue

If you believe your hair suffers from hygral fatigue, there are a few steps you can do to prevent this issue.

  • Limit the amount of time your hair is drenched in water, such as overnight conditioning. After rinsing out your conditioner, opt for sealing the moisture with a great leave-in conditioner.
  • Pre-poo with an oil like coconut oil, olive oil, or avocado oil, which are small enough to penetrate the hair shaft, attach to the protein structure, and reduce the amount of swelling to the hair cuticle.
  • Utilize pH-balanced products to help close the hair cuticle combating overly porous hair.
Read more: Does Natural Hair Need Proteins?

How to Tell If Your Hair Is Over-Moisturized

Low elasticity is one of the main indicators of over-moisturized hair. If your hair has a hard time stretching when wet and does not return to its natural state after pulling, your hair more than likely has low elasticity. Research shows elasticity cannot exist when there is an imbalance of moisture and protein. Keratin helps to strengthen the hair strands, which ultimately reduces breakage when stretched while moisture aids in helping the hair stretch and return to its natural state.

Overly moisturized hair is also associated with a limp, gummy-feeling of the hair when wet. This is where most women turn to intense protein treatments, such as the Aphogee Two Step Protein Treatment or lighter treatments such as Joico Moisture Recovery Treatment Balm. However, before jumping headfirst into either one of these options, it is best to consult a professional stylist if you are unsure of your needs. Too much protein can send your hair into the opposite spectrum of hygral fatigue resulting in protein overload, also known as protein sensitivity, which can also result in breakage. Remember it is all about balance.

Has your hair experienced hygral fatigue? How did you deal with this issue? 

Finally, 6 Brands with Unscented Products

If you are not a fan of products with fragrances, then reading the back label is probably the first thing you do upon finding a new product. Just about every hair product contains some type of fragrance whether naturally derived or artificial. A naturally-derived fragrance is a blend of essential oils, isolates from those oils, and isolates created from bio-fermentation. In short, the mix of oils and how they react to one another creates a fragrant smell. 

Another interesting thing to note is unscented products may still technically contain a fragrance, which works as a masking agent to the other ingredients for a no-scent result. According to the Food and Drug Administration, cosmetics marketed for retail purposes must list each ingredient individually under the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act. However, companies are also allowed to only list fragranceas a way to not force brands into selling trade secrets.

So the big question is how do you know which products are truly fragrance-free? Honestly, it is really hard to tell. The FDA does not regulate the term “fragrance-free” or “unscented” so reading the label is your best bet for now.  Thankfully, we have done part of the work for you. This list contains brands with unscented or fragrance-free product options, which is perfect for babies and those with sensitive skin or those susceptible to fragrance-induced headaches.

Oyin Handmade

Some people hate the natural smell of shea butter, and with the Oyin Handmade Whipped Shea butter you can order the unscented option. If you are looking for a natural oil to use from head-to-toe without the overwhelming scent of essentials, then try their After Bath body oil.

SheaMoisture Fragrance-Free, Gluten-Free Baby

This collection includes a Fragrance-Free Wash and Shampoo along with a Fragrance-Free Healing Lotion. This is perfect for babies and children with sensitive skin or skin conditions.

Jessicurl

Jessicurls offers their complete line of shampoo, conditioners, stylers, and oils with a no-fragrance option. With three separate collections for fine, thick, and coarse hair, this line has a little something for every curl type.

Karen’s Body Beautiful

Known for a variety of amazing scents such as pomegranate guava, lavender vanilla, and chamomile sage, Karen’s Body Beautiful offers unscented options for their cleansers, conditioners, and leave-in conditioners as well. Karen’s Body Beautiful can be used on natural, transitioning, or relaxed hair.

Koils by Nature

Koils by Nature offers the Fragrance Free Hydrating Shealoe Creamy Conditioner, Fragrance Free Moisturizing Shealoe Leave-In Conditioner, Nourishing Hair and Body Butter, Herbal Soothing Curl Defining Gel in unscented options. These products are great for anyone with sensitive skin, as the cleanser contains the healing property of calendula.

Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding

Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding is a staple for many naturals due to its amazing ability to define tight curl patterns. If you do not care for the scent of the original formula, then you should try this one.

If fragrance-free options are a real concern for you, then research will be your best line of defense.  Also, if you are still unsure when reading the back of a label, steer towards products where the ingredients are comprehensible.

What are you favorite fragrance-free products?

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