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Pictured: Cosmetologist Brianna Rashay
When we think about healthy hair, the word “relaxer” will almost certainly be the farthest thing from the minds of most people with textured hair. It may even sound paradoxical to think that relaxed hair can be healthy at all.
What is a Relaxer?
To be absolutely clear–by definition, a relaxer is a chemical treatment that is designed to break down the bonds of curly hair in order to loosen curl patterns. So if you get a relaxer, know that damage is taking place, no doubt. But what you can do, is take steps to get and maintain a relaxer in a way that allows your hair and scalp to look and feel its best.
What a Proper Relaxer Application Looks Like
Hair educator and stylist Linwood Darkis confirms that while relaxers are damaging by nature, the most unexpected damage follows when the treatment isn’t applied correctly. In his educational video titled “The TRUTH About Relaxers” he breaks down some harmful practices around the relaxer application process. In addition to confirming that “kiddie perms” and “sensitive scalp” relaxers may not burn as easily but may leave a harsh calcium buildup on the hair due to the calcium-hydroxide in the formulation, he mentions that it is imperative to put a petroleum base on–no, not just the edges– but the entire scalp.
“This is the only instance where you will really hear me say that ‘you should be using a petroleum-based product,’ because it creates a barrier there that’s difficult for the relaxer to eat through,” Darkis mentions in the video. “So you want to make sure that you’re using something that’s protective like that on the scalp prior to doing something like that.”
And speaking of protecting your scalp–the demonic burning feeling that “signals” that it’s finally time to rinse? That’s not really how relaxers were meant to be used. “The relaxer was never made for your scalp,” Darkis states in his video. “A relaxer’s job is to relax the curl, not to remove the curl…which means your hair should not be bone-straight, it should still have some degree of wave to it. That’s how you know your hair still has tensile strength. If you have removed all of the curl, you have essentially removed all of the hair’s strength.” For those that don’t know, tensile strength is your hair’s ability to resist breaking under tension.
How to Maintain Relaxed Hair
Blogger, wigmaker, and licensed cosmetologist Brianna Rashay’s brand is dedicated to all things beauty and lifestyle, and she’s had relaxed hair for most of her life. As someone who creates healthy relaxed hair content, she filled NaturallyCurly in on what healthy hair means to her as well as tips and product recommendations for newcomers who want to start relaxing. Above anything, Brianna wants Black women to know that they have many options when it comes to their hair, and she wants to be an example of what healthy relaxed hair looks like.
“Being a black woman the goal was always to have healthy hair no matter its natural state,” she says. “Being relaxed since I was a child I went through the normal journey with my hair where you don’t really care much about the health you just want the latest styles everyone else is wearing at the time. Once I graduated from high school is when I decided to take the health of my hair [into] my own hands. This gave me a goal to reach and it showed others that it’s possible to have long healthy hair. I love being a positive example of black hair because representation matters. Being relaxed is only one element of my hair journey which shows black women that we have a choice. Not only do we have a choice but we can do things [differently] in a healthy way. So being a light and representation of that makes me feel awesome because it means that we have more education, more knowledge, therefore giving us more options to a healthy hair journey.”
When it comes to choosing a relaxer to use, Brianna suggests paying close attention to the strength level and to being wary of no-lye relaxers–but, as always, consult a professional first.
“I have been using MOTIONS regular/mild relaxer for years,” she tells NaturallyCurly. “The most important ingredient of a relaxer is the strength level. I would never recommend anyone use super strength. Never underestimate the power of a relaxer because once it’s applied, it can’t be undone. I personally prefer to use lye relaxers, which are also called jar relaxers, because they come premixed. I tend to be a skeptic of no-lye relaxers over time, which are also called box relaxers, because if you’re not mixing the relaxer well enough every time, in human error, there can be some part of the contents that are stronger than others and this can alter the relaxer process.
I would never recommend anyone use super strength. Never underestimate the power of a relaxer because once it’s applied, it can’t be undone.
Although, when choosing if you want to use a lye or no lye relaxer, you should consult with a professional to make sure that your personal needs are being met and you’re able to use a relaxer that agrees with your hair and scalp. Lye relaxers are known to be harsher on the scalp where no-lye relaxers are known to be harsher on the hair. But there are ways around both methods by basing the scalp or using a chelating shampoo to clarify the hair of calcium build up. There is a science behind using relaxers and going to a professional who understands this will help tremendously if this is something you’re considering for your hair.”
How to Avoid Thin, Lifeless Relaxed Hair
So how do we avoid the tragic, lifeless relaxed hair of our childhoods? The truth is, fine and thin curly hair will always look thinner when it’s very straight. Products can make a difference, but it’s all about understanding your hair’s natural way of existence, and working from there.
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Brianna explains that “…healthy hair is obtainable for EVERYBODY but you must first know the natural properties of your hair first. My hair is naturally full, thick, and coarse so for someone with naturally fine hair and fewer strands to think their hair is going to look like mine would be unrealistic. So, knowing what your hair’s full potential is for you is really important when looking for products. Olaplex no.3 has been a game changer for my hair journey as it repairs broken bonds and this product is great no matter your hair texture or density. When you chemically alter your hair, you have to make sure you’re putting back the things that you’ve taken out and rebuilding broken bonds is one of the most important.”
A Tip Before You Relax Your Natural Hair
A tip for naturals that are thinking about relaxing: it helps to know what you want out of a relaxer before making the decision, as it’s a permanent switch. It’s possible that the look you want could be achievable without chemicals.
A tip for naturals that are thinking about relaxing: it helps to know what you want out of a relaxer before making the decision, as it’s a permanent switch. It’s possible that the look you want could be achievable without chemicals.
“Even though I’m relaxed I always encourage people who are natural to really think about what they are trying to achieve with their hair before making the decision to relax,” Brianna suggests. “Do they want to loosen their curl pattern, do they not want a curl pattern at all, and furthermore is there a way to achieve this without chemicals? No matter what chemical you choose to use, i.e. color, relaxer, perm, etc., there will be upkeep and this can be very difficult for someone who just doesn’t know how to upkeep and maintain. Heat training, keratin treatments, and more can be great alternatives to making the permanent switch.
But if you’ve done all those things and have decided that being relaxed is what you want to do, please seek professional help! If you feel confident to go on this journey yourself, watch lots of YouTube videos on self relaxing, relaxed hair upkeep, and really learn all you need to know because being relaxed is a lifestyle.
The relaxed hair community is very helpful and we’ve done a lot of the hard work for you, you just have to binge watch and educate yourself to make sure you’re relaxing the best way you can! Don’t let anyone discourage you from doing what’s best for YOU. And if sleek hair is what fits your lifestyle, do THAT.”
After the past decade or so of cultural enthusiasm for all things natural, it may come as a surprise to witness the steady uptick of acceptance and longing for straighter styling options, specifically relaxers. During the early years of the natural hair community’s ascent to the forefront of popular culture, the values that were shared amongst people usually centered around healthy, mostly unaltered textured hair. Now that natural hair has become a way of life for so many, some women are considering whether those same values are still relevant to them and their current lifestyle.
For Black women, hair (whether worn naturally or not”>, is always seen as being central to our identity. So in this age of exhaustion from hair care routines, and a desire for a different look, many naturals are left wondering if it’s okay to flip the script on what’s important to them. Is it okay to not be concerned with taking care of my natural hair? To not care if I damage it, even permanently? To not want hair to be part of my identity?
The answer, of course, is yes. Hair belongs to each individual person, and there is no right way to wear it.
Certainly, it’s recommended that you seek out professional help for chemical processes like relaxers and dye jobs to guarantee that you get the best results, but you don’t owe anyone healthy hair. Whatever style you’ve been craving, whether straight, curly, long, or short–go for it!
Perhaps the newest evolution of the natural hair movement will be about feeling educated and empowered to wear our hair however we please, without judgment or guilt.
Read on to hear stories from two women about why they chose to relax their hair, their current relaxed hair routines, and favorite products.
Quonna Leshae, Makeup Artist
My mom started relaxing my hair when I was about 5 or 6 years old, so being relaxed before now, was not a choice of my own. It was just something I thought we all did as black girls/women. “Natural hair” was a foreign term to me for most of my life. Growing up I don’t remember any friends or family members having natural hair.
Around 8th/9th grade, I discovered YouTube. That is when I learned about natural hair. I was seeing these black women with beautiful curls – many talking about their transition to natural hair. Seeing those women embracing their curls and coils of all types and textures was inspirational, so I decided on my own in 10th grade that I would transition for a few months and then big chop.
For me, the main reason I decided to relax my natural hair was a combination of the effort and time commitment to wash days and styling my hair. When I was in high school, I had a lot more free time on my hands, so taking the extra time to care for my hair didn’t bother me.
However, right now, life is busy and I have more responsibilities than before. It was becoming an annoying chore for me to do my hair most days. When wearing my natural hair, I preferred it to look a particular way so there was never a “wash n go” or wake up and style quickly routine I had. That is ultimately what made me decide to relax. I loved my natural hair and thought it was beautiful, and I plan to return to natural hair at some point, but right now, I want to enjoy the convenience of relaxed hair.
I was definitely nervous about what the outcome would be. I had fears of my hair completely falling out or being extremely damaged, but the other side of me was not at all apprehensive. Hair is just hair for me at this point in my life. I knew that if I relaxed it and hated it or it got damaged, it would be an easy fix of just jumping back in with another big chop and starting over. I was okay with that possibility. Also knowing there are so many styles I could wear while I grew my hair back out (if necessary”> brought me comfort and confidence in moving forward with relaxing my hair.
When posting the video of me relaxing my hair, I was definitely mentally preparing myself for negative comments from the natural hair community, but to my surprise, almost all of the comments and feedback I have received have been positive. I think I have found through sharing my relaxer story, that many other women are feeling similar to how I was feeling and are also acknowledging that deciding to relax our hair doesn’t mean we don’t love our natural hair.
I think I have found through sharing my relaxer story, that many other women are feeling similar to how I was feeling and are also acknowledging that deciding to relax our hair doesn’t mean we don’t love our natural hair.
To be honest, I do not have as much of a “routine” with my relaxed hair as I did with my natural hair because it doesn’t require as much. I have been washing my hair 1-2 times per week, depending on how I’ve styled it. I condition every wash. Typically after washing, I use a leave-in conditioner and allow my hair to air dry.
When I was natural, I loved Melanin Hair Care and I’ve still been using those products with my relaxed hair. The leave-in conditioner leaves my hair feeling moisturized and soft every time. After air drying, I will run through my hair with the Tymo Beauty Straightening Brush. It takes less than 10 minutes. Then I either wear it that way or put it in some kind of simple style. When styling it otherwise, I’ve been wearing a lot of ponytails, braided ponytails, or buns.
Courtney Ayanna, Photographer
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Photo: @courtneyayanna_
“I got my first relaxer when I was pretty young. My mom had a difficult time managing my thick hair. YouTube and Google was not around in the 90s for her to research different natural hair products or styles; so she decided to relax it. I don’t have any negative experiences with relaxed hair as a kid. It was just normal then.
[I went back to relaxed hair because…] I was OVER IT! It was the 2 plus hour wash days just to walk outside and [have] the humidity ruin all my hard work for me. I liked to keep my hair straight even when I was natural, that was more manageable for me. I know it may be controversial to say but I prefer the look of my straight hair over my natural hair. The only time I wore my natural hair was when it was slicked back in a bun and that was still a lot to manage.
When I went through training for the military I had no choice but to rock my natural hair since we couldn’t use hair tools and it was a nightmare for me to keep up with. I was just ready to be care and stress free with my hair. I would literally stay inside if it rained and avoided swimming at all costs.
I definitely was scared my hair would fall out if I relaxed it. I worried about how much damage and breakage it would cause so I kept putting it off for a couple of years, but I went back and forth about it.
However, I learned you could have healthy relaxed hair if you take the time to properly take care of it. Overall, the response to me relaxing my hair has been positive. It’s important to do what’s best for you and not base your decisions off the fear of what others opinions may be towards your decisions. If you want to be natural be natural there’s nothing wrong with that. If you’re over the natural, that’s fine too! Neither makes you better than the other, it’s not a competition.
I’m still so new in my relaxed hair journey so I’m figuring out what works best for me. Lately I’ve been using ORS Olive Oil Moisture Restore Creamy Aloe Shampoo (love this stuff”> and the Macadamia Deep Repair Mask as my conditioner . I also love the Curls Blueberry Bliss leave-in conditioner, and use a hair serum everyday for my ends. The most important thing I’ve noticed is to make sure my ends stay moisturized and I only use heat on my hair twice a month.”
Have you relaxed your hair or considered relaxing it recently? Share your experience and tips below.
When describing curl patterns, people with textured hair commonly throw around combinations of numbers and letters as a baseline introduction to their curls. Similarly to how a person might describe their personality type on a first date, combinations like 4A, 3C and 2B, for example, can lead naturals to better understand their styling and product options on a rudimentary level, and help them to explain their hair to others. And because the 1A-4C scale has become a widely-accepted industry standard when discussing hair, it’s important to review where all of this hair labeling began, and why? And what other hair characteristics are relevant to the modern-day discourse on healthy hair?
For some perspective we caught up with curl expert, author, and NaturallyCurly Co-Founder Michelle Breyer, and hairstylist, educator, and texture expert April Kayganich to hear what they each had to say about their experience with hair typing, and their opinions on its place in hair care.
The Origins of 1A-4C and the NaturallyCurly Texture Typing System
In the 1990s when relaxed and straightened hair still reigned supreme, Oprah Winfrey’s hair stylist Andre Walker created the first 1A-4C chart to assist consumers in purchasing from his product collection. The four categories, straight (type 1A-1C”>, wavy (type 2A-2C”>, curly (type 3A-3C”>, and coily (type 4A-C”> not only helped to market his products, but it coincidentally solidified a new language to be used when describing hair that is not straight–a language that NaturallyCurly expanded upon with its own revised Texture Typing system.
For Michelle Breyer, it all started with a need for more information and better language to use when communicating online. “When we started in the beginning, the discussion board CurlTalk was a major portion of the site,” Michelle explains. “So it was about trying to get a feeling for what people’s hair looked like. In 1998, the only one that existed was Andre Walker’s system, but it was very basic, so there was a need for it. When we first started, there was such a void when it came to the language around curly hair. So we were pioneers at a time when people were looking to talk texture, giving language to the curly experience.”
The NaturallyCurly system uses 1A-4C from the original system to describe curl patterns, but it also added the elements of porosity, density, length, and width of hair strands to allow people with textured hair to get a clearer picture of what their hair requires and to build a more personalized hair-care regimen, as detailed here in Michelle’s book and how-to guide for the curly experience.
How Hair Typing Can Be Beneficial – and Why You Should Pay Attention to Porosity
Andre Walker’s hair chart and NaturallyCurly’s hair typing system can both be beneficial if used correctly, but it’s important to remember that hair typing has limitations and should be used as one of many tools to loosely inform the decisions a person makes concerning their hair, and not a strict set of rules to be followed.
“It’s beneficial as a starting point,” Michelle says. “It helps you narrow the universe of products, of things that may or may not work with your hair. As curly hair education evolved, some of the other attributes became much more important. For me, porosity is so much more important than my curl pattern. I may have much more in common with someone based on things like porosity and density.”
While some textured hair experts still find hair typing to be useful in some respects, others like April Kayganich find it more helpful to avoid it altogether. “In my opinion, I don’t really care to use the texture scale when I am working with clients,” April tells NaturallyCurly. “I don’t think it is useful for healthy hair care because that curl pattern doesn’t determine what products should be used. I actually have seen how it can do the opposite, because it isn’t about how the hair looks–it is about what it feels like… it is all curly to me. When I talk about texture, I mean fine, medium, or coarse hair.”
Particularly when choosing the products to use in your regimen, April also adds that porosity is a huge factor when caring for her clients’ hair. “We should pick products based on if the hair is fine, medium, or coarse, and by the porosity of the hair. I definitely see it as a barrier as I have had clients come in with tight coils that feel their hair is weighed down and still dry, and that is because their products were based on how the hair looks, rather than how it feels. That is why so many people wonder why a product they have seen used on their favorite Instagram or YouTube influencer didn’t work for them even though ‘their hair looked like mine’.”
Why Hair Typing Is Controversial
Texturism can’t be separated from the conversation around hair typing. With the favoritism for looser and smoother curls already presenting as an issue within the natural hair community and society at large, some naturals feel as though the 1A-4C scale starting with straight hair and ending with kinky coily is an unnecessary ranking that encourages discrimination against afro-textured hair and encourages Black women with kinkier hair to want to manipulate their curls to be looser. Not to mention Andre Walker has allegedly made some dated and off-color comments in the past with regard to Type 4 hair. And let’s not forget the texture and styling of Black hair has real-life repercussions, even at school and in the workplace.
To this point, Michelle makes it clear that NaturallyCurly’s system had the unique opportunity to foster a sense of community and camaraderie on the forums, not to divide. “There was a time where it became an issue where there were negative connotations with having Type 4 hair. So in the sense that it can divide people, that was never the intent,” she explains. “If anything, it was supposed to bring people together and create that language where you could talk and communicate and help one another. The other thing that came out of that was that people realized that they might have much more in common with someone who doesn’t look like them based on their hair attributes.”
“You have different methods, different ways of learning, and different opinions on how to care for hair, and that is okay,” she tells us. “Just because I do not subscribe to what one stylist is saying, doesn’t mean it is wrong.” – April Kayganich
We polled the NaturallyCurly Instagram community to see what you think of texture typing, and 54% responded that they find it helpful, while 46% responded that they don’t. But if there’s one constant truth about textured hair, it’s that no single method, tool, or technique will work for everyone, and April believes differences of opinion will always exist no matter how hair care evolves, and that the texture scale is here to stay. “You have different methods, different ways of learning, and different opinions on how to care for hair, and that is okay,” she tells us. “Just because I do not subscribe to what one stylist is saying, doesn’t mean it is wrong. If you look at a strand of curly hair, you can see the coil or the curve of the hair and the more coily it is, the hair can tend to be more dry…but I think as long as people understand how to maintain healthy hair, and more importantly, their [own] hair, whether or not they use the scale shouldn’t matter.”
How important is hair typing to you in your hair care process? What other characteristics do you find helpful to know to better understand your hair?
Photo by Jesse Fiorino
If you’re an OG natural, there’s a good chance that by now you have a good handle on your hair’s specific needs, and probably a solid arsenal of butters, oils, and cleansers to address those concerns. Personally, I’ve decided on my favorite cleanser, a moisturizer that leaves my hair feeling pillowy, a gel that keeps the coils defined and springy–but I’m not at all opposed to adding a new product into my routine, if it looks worth it.
True, the fact that there are insane amounts of products available in the textured hair market can make the process of searching for new ones feel intimidating, but the pros who share their knowledge online make the process of finding those worthwhile products way easier. As a hair educator, Vernon François, uses his digital platforms to share advice on everything from holistic hair care to styling tutorials and creative inspiration.
In addition to being an educator and advisor for the L’Oréal brands Redken and Kérastase, Vernon is a celebrity hairstylist, global consultant, and founder of the brand and product line VERNON FRANÇOIS Haircare. His social media feed is full of behind-the-scenes looks of his striking textured hair creations as well as pro tips on color, styling, general hair maintenance and so much more.
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The celebrity stylist took the time to chat with us to let us know which products he’s in love with at the moment, and what he recommends to his clients to give you an idea of what to splurge on next.
Whether you went natural yesterday or you’re doing wash-and-go’s in your sleep, it always pays to hear what the experts have to say. Here’s an inside look at some of Vernon’s personal favorite products and recommendations.
What shampoo, conditioner, and deep conditioner are you currently using? What qualities about them made you add them into your routine?
Vernon: “Right now, my hair is a playful shade of neon yellow, and I am using Redken’s Acidic Bonding Concentrate range which has a shampoo, conditioner and leave-in treatment for taking care of color processed hair. The system helps to repair, intensely condition, and protect from color fade.”
If you had to choose one, what would you say is your favorite wash-day product from VERNON FRANÇOIS Haircare?
Vernon: “CURL~ Shampoo is one of my favourite washday products from VERNON FRANÇOIS® Haircare because it works in harmony with all waves, curls, and coils. It’s sulfate free which means it cleans without stripping hair of natural oils, and gently foams instead of creating a big lather. It’s vegan friendly with shea butter and olive oil to help soften hair, and tea tree oil to help scalp health.”
Do you have a wash-day product that you would recommend for all curly hair types?
Vernon: “Regular deep conditioning, once a week or two, helps to keep curls looking and feeling healthy and nourished. The Curl Manifesto deep conditioning mask by Kérastase strengthens and moisturizes all curls, coils and waves, boosting bounce and improving elasticity.”
If you had to choose one, what would you say is your current favorite styling product from VERNON FRANÇOIS Haircare? What do you love about it? Is there a specific type of curl pattern that would benefit the most from it?
Vernon: “One of my favorite styling products by VERNON FRANÇOIS® Haircare is the STYLING~ Cream. This is for all hair textures, kinky, coily, curly, wavy, also straight hair, with coconut oil, shea butter, witch hazel, and argan oil and more. The rich cream is easy to apply, with no stickiness, stiffness or flaking. It’s great for enhancing all kinks and curls, as well as setting any hairstyle up for success.”
Do you have a styling product that you would recommend for all curly hair types?
Vernon:
“Awesome and worth trying is MIST~ Nourishing Water by VERNON FRANÇOIS® Haircare. It hydrates hair and is a fantastic primer before styling all kinky, coily, curly and wavy hair. This is the purest water with amino acids, plant oils and extracts applied with a non-aerosol spray. As well as helping to care for strands and set the stage for successful styling, it helps protect from color fade.”
Will you be picking up any of these recommended products? Or maybe you already own one or two? Let us know below.
Linwood Darkis, a hairstylist of 20 years, has amassed an enormous following on TikTok, YouTube and Instagram as @getglamfam by creating detailed breakdowns on styling all kinds of textured hair. Need some protective styling ideas for kids? A highly detailed wig review? Pro-tips on caring for understanding porosity and growth? Linwood’s content covers all of those bases and then some. As an educator who is dedicated to teaching a curriculum that considers all varieties of texture, Linwood even created his own line of hair mannequins with Type 4 curls—something that is rarely seen in hair education.
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When he’s not teaching professional classes, you can usually find him giving valuable hair advice and product recommendations in short, relatable (and often hilarious”> educational reels.
We caught up with Linwood to get his take on the best wash-day products, from shampoos to stylers—read on for his affordable, salon-quality suggestions.
What shampoo, conditioner, and deep conditioner are you currently using? What qualities about them made you add them into your routine?
Darkis: “I’m currently using the Giovanni 2Chic Ultra Moist line. Honestly the level of hydration your hair gets from it is amazing.The shampoo, conditioner, and deep conditioning mask all work wonders, and it really is worthy of being used in salons, despite the fact that it’s price point is lower than most salon brands. It’s also a great line for people who are looking for less synthetics, and more organic ingredients, without a loud smelling formulation.”
Is there another wash-day product (that you’re currently using or have used previously”> that you absolutely love and use often either on yourself or your clients?
Darkis: “I was pleasantly surprised by the Dove Amplified Textures line! I had a client of mine ranting and raving about it, and I reluctantly tried the line and was shocked that they created a line that performed well for coils, kinks, and curls! (Dove also supports the CROWN Act, which is a win/win for me”>.”
“I literally recommend the Giovanni 2Chic Ultra Moist line to everyone, like, they should have me on payroll at this point! (The styling elixir–which is technically a leave in–is great too.”>”
If you had to choose one, what would you say is your current favorite styling product (any kind of styling product. Styling mousse, gel, leave-in, curl butter, etc.”>? What do you love about it and is there a specific type of curl pattern that would benefit the most from it?
Darkis: “One of my go to favorites is Wetline Xtreme gel. It used to work exceptionally for all hair types, and then they changed the formulation, so while it’s still good, and very affordable in stores, it doesn’t get along with as many hair types as it used to. One of my favorite things about their gel is that it reactivates when you get it wet.”
Are there any styling products that you would recommend all curly hair types to try?
Darkis: “A product that works nicely for nearly every hair type (when you are looking for a lightweight, no crunch product”> is The DOUX’s Mousse Def. It’s almost always sold out at my local store, and for good reason, as it performs rather well; plus, it’s a Black-owned line, and several of their other products have rather rich formulations that coat each strand in moisture.”
If you haven’t already, make sure to follow Darkis’s Instagram account and YouTube channel for all manner of vital hair tips and genuine commentary.
Fluffy “cloud hair” has been making the rounds as a trend, but at NaturallyCurly we think that wearing our hair in its natural state is not a trend – it’s here to stay. Yet for all the strides that the natural hair community has made during the past two decades of challenging the pervasive dominance of straight hair in beauty, there are still some remaining preferences that drive the collective idea of what textured hair “should” look like.
Achieving the curly ideal usually requires a hair texture that produces immaculate curl definition, expertly placed baby hairs, and a glassy-sleek up-do. And while curl definition, baby hairs, and sleek styles are gorgeous creative expressions of what curly hair can do, the fixation on perfect and silky curls is not only a common preference, but it’s used as a point of reference to gauge how well a person is taking care of their hair and whether or not their hairstyle is “done” or styled properly.
The naturals, specifically the Black women and Black femmes, that fall outside of this coveted aesthetic may fall into the habit of complicated styling routines and ample product usage in order to mimic perfect curls, and those products aren’t cheap. For reference, Black people spent about 86 percent of the $63.5 million spent on all Ethnic Hair and Beauty Aids in 2017, according to a study by Nielsen. The practice of self-care is one thing, but naturals should never feel pressured to put constant effort into molding their hair into a more acceptable form in order to be natural the “right” way. Low-effort styles are in, and they’re for everyone.
The practice of self-care is one thing, but naturals should never feel pressured to put constant effort into molding their hair into a more acceptable form in order to be natural the “right” way.
If you need some inspo to encourage you to allow your frizz to flourish, let us remind you that your hair looks good in its natural state, no matter the style. Take a look at some of the ways in which you can rock fluffy curls without laying a finger on that edge control.
Flexi-Rod Set
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Most flexi-rod sets are done painstakingly to get the smoothest results, but the extra texture at the roots adds some really nice body to this style. To see the step-by-step process behind these soft waves, follow Jaleesa’s super simple tutorial.
Loc’d Bob
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If you’re a loc’d natural, have you ever considered a chop? Cutting or dying your locs can really give new life to the style.
High Puff and Headband
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Natural hair doesn’t have to be sleek to pull off the high puff and swept bang look. It’s an adorable style on its own, and adding a statement headband is just the icing on top.
Short Afro
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There’s truly nothing like a healthy-looking ‘fro. It’s elegant, classy, and casual, and it always looks effortless.
Soft Blowout
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Do you have to choose between wearing your hair straight and having texture? We think not. Blown out hair with texture gives a similar shape to curly hair, and you can enjoy more length.
Undefined Curls
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Definition is great, but sometimes we give it too much credit. With less definition, you can achieve greater height from the roots of your hair. Sue’s lovely shape here is from a Rezo cut.
Knotless Braids
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Knotless braids are a popular low-tension protective style, and they look amazing even as the roots and edges become frizzy.
Decorated High Bun
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Decorating fluffy textured hair has to be one of the most fun aspects of styling. Beads, cuffs, pearls, clips, there are so many ways to add a creative touch to the style. More volume and frizz makes it easier to place and secure the wire–and it adds to the artistic vibe.
Flat Twists
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It takes a little practice, but once you have flat twists down they’ll become one of the easiest and most versatile styles for your hair.
Textured Perm Rod Set
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This was the result of Donnella’s perm rod set after coming in contact with humid weather, and it still looks amazing. Here’s what it looked like before and how she did the style.
Do you tend to embrace frizziness while styling, or do you usually prefer a sleek and defined look?
Have you ever felt pressured to style your hair a certain way? Let us know about it in the comments.
Disney’s latest award-winning feature film Encanto has taken social media by storm since its release on Disney+ and by now, you’ve probably seen more than a few Encanto-inspired TikTok reels and Instagram posts. Admit it, if your brain doesn’t randomly play the refrain from “We Don’t Talk About Bruno” on repeat, then it’s definitely got “Surface Pressure” on a loop.
Why representation matters
Besides having an unforgettable soundtrack, Encanto’s colorful cast of Colombian animated characters and family-centered story has reaffirmed in so many ways why it’s important for children and adults alike to see themselves in all forms of media. Plenty of sociologists and researchers agree that what we see on-screen has power. The real magic of this film is not only in getting to experience the fun of dancing and singing along, but in people seeing and hearing the characters that represent them tell their own stories in a familiar way–and every little detail matters. From Julieta’s perfect arepa-making technique, to Félix and Pepa’s vallenato and cumbia-influenced choreography, to the array of curls and curl-types on the characters’ heads.
Take a look at these four examples of curly-haired people who are celebrating seeing themselves in – and bear a striking resemblance to – the Family Madrigal.
1. Maribel Martinez
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One of the break-out stars of Encanto is the brawny middle-sister Luisa who’s gifted with super strength and carries both the family’s physical and emotional burdens. When Maribel Martinez, 23-year-old mother of two, started creating TikTok videos of her dancing and lip-syncing in costume as Luisa, her clips were soon attracting millions of views on the platform.
“Our people are all shades and I love that they included curly hair.”
“Growing up as a middle child, I felt so much pressure to take care of my siblings and handle adult responsibilities. I never really had the opportunity to just be a child. I was my mom’s emotional support and a role model to my younger siblings,” Martinez told Buzzfeed. And on the topic of hair and culture, she tells NaturallyCurly that she very much appreciates the variety of Latinx representation in the film. “I feel amazed that they made characters in all shapes and sizes because that’s what representation is. It did resonate with me being a brown-colored Latinx [person], it’s amazing to see that we are now getting recognition and representation. Our people are all shades and I love that they included curly hair.”
2. Kenzo Brooks
One adorable 2-year-old warmed the hearts of many online with his reaction to seeing his resemblance to the youngest character in the Madrigal family, Antonio. “To see his reaction when connecting with the character Antonio, we were taken aback by how connected and understanding he was of the moment,” Kenzo’s father, Keith Brooks, says. “Although he can’t express verbally what he was feeling, his facial expression and body language showed he felt the connection in seeing himself on screen.”
Brooks explains that he and Kenzo’s mother have always had conversations with each other about race and empowering their young Black son in a world with unequal opportunity, and he believes movies like Encanto are empowering for all Black and Brown children in their ability to allow them to see themselves received in a positive light.
“We want our son to love himself and all of his physical attributes and [to find] comfort in the way he looks.”
“When thinking of race and representation, not only does it connect to skin color but also other physical attributes such as hairstyle and texture,” he states. “Kenzo’s afro, we have been asked by people if we will cut it soon, and we always reply ‘no’. We want our son to love himself and all of his physical attributes and [to find] comfort in the way he looks.”
3. Madisyn Rivera
Photos courtesy of Madisyn Rivera
From the time the trailer for Encanto was released, cosplayer Madisyn Rivera says her phone was flooded with messages from family and friends telling her how much she looked like the main protagonist Mirabel Madrigal.
“I was expecting this character to be a side character but was blown away when I saw that a curly-haired hispanic girl, just like me, was the main character! I have never seen an animated character look like me before, let alone have my hair texture,” the 20-year-old film major says. “Her [Mirabel’s] curls add so much to her character, and that resonates with me deeply.”
“I have never seen an animated character look like me before, let alone have my hair texture”
For Rivera, as with many other people with textured hair, understanding and loving its natural state was a slow process. “When I was younger, I didn’t know how to take care of my curls and was the only grandchild to be born with curly hair. So for many years I straightened my hair to make it ‘easier’ for other people to deal with. But as I got older I took the big chop and happily grew back my curls. I am now passionate about keeping my natural hair healthy, as my curls are a part of my identity,” she says. “I wear my curls proudly the same way Mirabel Madrigal does, and that is something every curly girl now gets to see represented on a media [platform] as big and influential as Disney.”
4. Jasmine James
Also known in the cosplay community as “CutiePieSensei”, Jasmine James’s roster of cosplays is deep. Having portrayed the likeness of hundreds of animated characters, Dolores Madrigal is one of her most recent additions.
“It was cool to see actual important/main characters with curly natural hair; not just Dolores but even her father Félix with even kinkier textured hair, as well,” James explains. “It’s not common enough and I feel like if I had representation like that as a child, I probably would’ve felt more confident in my own hair back then. I cosplay a lot and not many ‘main’ characters look like me so it’s nice to have that and feel included.”
“not many ‘main’ characters look like me so it’s nice to have that and feel included.”
How did you feel about the curly hair representation in Encanto? What animated characters do you feel represent you? Let us know your thoughts below.
Finding the right kind of advice on styling and hair care is a major part of curly maintenance. Of course, if you’ve just taken the plunge into textured natural hair, your main goal may be to simply master the basics—detangling, twist-outs, maybe a wash-and-go—but even longtime naturals will need guidance and tips from seasoned professionals at some point to achieve the best results.
And while the amount of questionable information on the internet knows no bounds, there are talented and masterful stylists who use their social media feeds to set the record straight and share their knowledge freely with their followers. Showing behind-the-scenes clips of celebrity styling before the red carpet, weighing in on hotly-debated topics on hair and scalp health, and providing daily inspiration to fuel your creativity, these professional hair gurus are well-worth a tap of that blue button.
Ahead you’ll find 10 Black hair stylists that use their platform to bring people top-tier curly education and pro tips.
1. “Kee” Taylor
Also known as “Deeper Than Hair TV” on YouTube, CEO and salon owner Kee Taylor has tutorials galore, and there’s one for just about every type of style you can imagine. Bantu knots, braids, blow-outs, extensions, you name it, which makes her social media the perfect place to start for the basics. And because she’s all about healthy hair journeys, there are also plenty of super satisfying big-chop transformations thrown in the mix.
2. Linwood Darkis
Having 20 years in the bag as a hairstylist and 11 years as a hair educator, you learn a thing or two about, well—pretty much everything. Linwood’s Instagram and YouTube channel features himself and his wife (both of whom are licensed cosmetologists”> discussing hot button topics on hair and answering commonly asked questions, as well as giving step-by-step tutorials for simple natural styles for adults and kids (featuring their two daughters”>. Watch for educational hair advice, and stay for the beautiful Black family content. And if you’re ever in need of curly wig recommendations, comb through their detailed wig reviews.
3. Niani B.
During the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic, Niani decided to put an idea for an in-person class to even better use. Knowing that there are plenty of mothers that may not have the know-how to take care of their own hair or their children’s hair, the stylist and entrepreneur created a digital space for Black women to learn how to braid, free of judgment. A Safe Space for Black Girls That Never Learned How to Braid is an affordable braiding class focused on helping beginners. And with Niani being a braiding specialist herself, her feed is full of protective styling tips and inspo.
4. Ursula Stephen
A star-studded client list is a testimony to the quality of a person’s work. In-between updating her social media with cool sneak peeks into how incredible celebrity hairstyles are born, master stylist Ursula Stephens regularly drops gems on styling and even a few tutorials. Of course, her work will also be an aesthetic boost for your feed, for sure.
5. & 6. Aisha Strickland and Aeleise Jana
In 2015, these tight curl educators and licensed hair stylists created a brand that is dedicated to bringing people the blunt and honest truth about natural hair care. They present the pure facts, no chaser. Black Girl Curls is a hub for educating naturals based on the science behind taking care of textured hair, and the idea that caring for tight curls is way easier than it’s been portrayed to be.
7. Lacy Redway
Jamaican-born beauty creative Lacy Redway is in-demand in Hollywood, and for good reason. Chances are if you haven’t heard her name, then you know her work—it’s everywhere, from Vogue covers, to red carpets and beyond. In addition to providing practical tips for haircare and styling, Lacy is very open about her efforts to pave the way for other Black stylists in Hollywood by giving them tips on how to make their way into the industry. She even sat on the selection committee of TRESemmé’s 2021 Future Stylist Fund scholarship program for Black women, providing the winners with the expert advice needed to make it in the field.
8. Kari Williams
Ever heard of goddess locs? Thanks to Dr. Kari Williams, the natural-looking, wavy loc extensions that she originally created for actress Meagan Good are a protective styling option for us today. She’s also the stylist behind Chloe Bailey’s blond loc extensions. As both a stylist and a trichologist, Dr. Williams offers advice on all things protective styling, professional hair care courses, as well as a podcast dedicated to helping stylists sort out the issues that arise with running your own business.
9. Monae Everett
A hairstylist and makeup artist for 20 years, Monae shares her extensive knowledge of styling techniques and insider knowledge on how to attract celebrity clients for other stylists. If you’re a stylist who wants to be hired for Fashion Week, follow her “Monae’s Monday Morning Question” series.
10. Vernon François
The man behind Lupita Nyong’o’s stunning textured styles, celeb stylist, educator, and global consultant Vernon François is incredibly active on social media and consistently shares any recent interviews with hair advice for his audience. On a larger scale, Vernon is working with luxury brand Kéraste as an inclusivity advisor to bring curly and coily hair texture to the forefront of global stylist education.
How much of your curly and textured hair knowledge comes from your social media feed? Do you follow any other stylists that give great advice? Tell us about it in the comments below!
Since big chopping my hair last fall, my haircare routine has shifted from being length-retention-focused to being more vigilant about my scalp and hair health. I wash my hair more often (mostly because wash day is so much less complicated”>, and I’m more aware of what my scalp is doing in-between washes because there’s not so much hair covering it. Having dealt with hormone-sensitive moderately dry, flaky scalp for most of my life, I’ve just learned to cope with it through regular washing and oiling and hoping for the best.
So when I remembered I had the Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Scalp and Hair Strengthening Oil—dubbed the best hair growth product of 2021 for all hair types by NaturallyCurly’s own community—unused on the bathroom sink, I took the opportunity to test it on my dry hair and itchy-flaky scalp to see if it lived up to the hype. But, I didn’t use this product with the intention to grow my hair, and that begs the question: do I think this product alone will make hair grow? No. But, if you have issues with breakage or extremely flaky and irritated scalp, the oil might help to create the right environment for hair to grow. And I’m all-in for products that promote strong hair and a healthy scalp.
Because the oil is multi-use, I wanted to try it in different situations, as directed on the label: as a scalp treatment, for daily use, and split end care.
Wash-Day Scalp Treatment
After admiring the easy applicator the oil is packaged in, the second thing that struck me about this product was the minty essential oil smell. To be honest, I was concerned that I’d be going around smelling like a walking medicine cabinet, but this one is easy on the nose. It smells exactly like its nominative ingredients rosemary and mint, but it’s mild and and even slightly refreshing. As long as you don’t overdo it with the application.
After washing and working my usual moisturizing products into my hair, I swapped the oil in place of my typical Jamaican black castor oil. The label encourages a “small amount” of product, so I filled the dropper twice and applied that amount primarily to my scalp and massaging it out to the ends of my hair. There’s a light tingly coolness that comes up on the scalp that is pretty calming after shampooing. Afterward I defined my curls with gel, as usual.
Daily Use
The directions for everyday use are pretty much the same as the directions for the scalp treatment, but I personally recommend using a little less in-between washes to avoid too much of an oily build-up. Just one dropper full at the most. One of the high points of this oil is that it distributes easily over the hair and scalp, and you don’t need a large amount of it to do the trick. Being used to heavier oils to seal in moisture, I was pleasantly surprised to see this oil even has similar sealing properties without creating that greasy-hair feeling.
This is my favorite way to apply the product because I noticed fewer flakes after a week of daily use, and my scalp felt less itchy and angry in the days leading up to the wash.
Split End Care
With only an inch of hair, split ends are less of a concern than they were a few months ago, but it’s worth noting the oil still left my dried-out winter hair feeling oh-so-smooth. To use the oil as a sort of hot oil treatment, apply the oil to the ends of the hair, break out a fresh plastic cap and sip on some hot tea for 10 minutes while you wait for it to do its magic. When you’re ready to get on with the process, simply rinse and shampoo as normal to enjoy softer, ultra smooth hair.
Considering the benefits of this oil and the modest price point, I’ll definitely be integrating it into my routine to give my scalp the attention it deserves. You can pick up Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Scalp and Hair Strengthening Oil on Amazon for $9.99.
When transitioning into a vinyasa flow or pushing through that last set of burpees, chances are the state of your hairstyle is the last thing on your mind. For most of us, as long as the hair is out of the way, pretty much anything goes. But Instagram contains a treasure trove of sleek style ideas that would keep curly hair secure throughout a vigorous gym session, and that are also so aesthetically pleasing that you’ll want to wear them again and again.
Maybe a few new workout styles will even spark the motivation to keep your fitness routine in motion this year. You know the saying: “When you look good, you feel good”—and we’re inclined to agree.
Ahead, you’ll find 15 hairstyles that are functional enough to handle a workout, and trendy enough to wear with confidence while you run all of your errands afterwards.
1. Sleek High Bun
Pictured: @kaykayx__
If you tend to want your hair to be completely out of the way during a workout, you’ll probably appreciate this smooth look. Slick your hair back into a high bun, leaving two small sections of hair for braiding. Create two braids, cross them, and pin them back near the bun. Add extra hair to make the bun fuller and throw in a few hair piercings for added flair.
2. Straight-Back Cornrows
Pictured: @tylauren
Straight-back cornrows are classic for a reason. They never really go out of style, but they can easily transition from glamorous occasions to a sweaty session on the treadmill. Add hair to turn up the drama or to add length to short hair.
3. Space Buns
Pictured: @jasmeannnn
Sub in two buns for the quintessential lumpy gym ponytail! Split your hair in two halves and then two ponytails. Then twist each ponytail down and secure them with bobby pins to recreate this look. If
you find your baby hairs curl up after the workout, don’t sweat it—just smooth them back into place with your favorite edge control and go.
4. Multiple Barrettes
Pictured: @truleytalentedbeauty
Flyaways can be easily disguised with some intentional accessory placement! Keep stray hairs at a minimum with barrettes and clips. The more the merrier.
5. Bubble Pigtails
Pictured: @amandarrwalker
This unique take on pigtails looks pretty involved, but it’s surprisingly simple—definitely quick enough to do before a workout. If you need some help with it, take a look at the detailed tutorial on this style. Don’t forget the hair cuffs to top it off.
6. Fro-Hawk
Pictured: @goldynaps
No matter the length, a fro-hawk is an easy (and super fun”> way to keep hair out of the eyes and off the shoulders. To replicate this style, gather your hair into 3 large puffs down the center of your head and adjust/fluff them as-desired. You can also pin your hair up towards the center instead of using elastics.
7. Braided Ponytail
Pictured: @samanthapollack
The Sade-inspired low braided ponytail has been floating around amongst curly influencers for a while now. Not only is it gorgeous in its simplicity, but it’s incredibly effective at keeping curly hair protected and contained. Pull your hair back into a low ponytail, and braid the loose hair. Add braiding hair, too, if you want that extra length (and you know you want to!”>.
8. Flat-Twisted Ponytail
Pictured: @curlie.lexi
In my eyes, flat twists will always be the easiest and most attractive style to do on a whim, especially if your braiding skills are lacking. If you want to get involved in a spontaneous fitness activity on a wash-day without many accessories and tools, flat twists are for you.
9. Puff/Headwrap Combo
Pictured: @curlygallal
When you’re really pressed for time, you can’t go wrong with the pineapple puff. Wrap a scarf or a headwrap around the style to give it a bit of an elevated look, and also to keep stray hairs from falling down or into your eyes.
10. Braided High Ponytail
Pictured: @ashley_masse
If you’ve already got a protective style in, like braids, a simple high pony will work wonders. And the confidence a high ponytail invokes is unmatched—a perfect workout staple.
11. Half-Up, Half Down
Pictured: @jaleesa
For lighter workout days, securing half of the hair in a ponytail will suffice to keep faux locs, passion twists, box braids, etc. out of sight.
12. Jumbo Side Braid
Pictured: @camilacvieira
One single side braid is a quick fix for particularly long hair. Just braid along the perimeter of the head and secure the hair with a gentle elastic or scrunchie.
13. Low Bun and Silk Scrunchie
Pictured: @tropicurlie
A simple style can look luxurious with the right accessories! Accentuate a low bun with a pearlescent silk scrunchie to prevent frizz and breakage while you focus on your fitness. This one is the French Mulberry Silk Hair Scrunchie from Black-owned brand Soie Silk.
14. Chunky Cornrows
Pictured: @curlbellaa
Even the most skilled braiders can take a while to finish small braids. These chunky cornrows will have you spending less time braiding and more time in your workout. The two braids across the front frame the face without obstructing the view.
15. Cornrows and Ponytail Extension
Pictured: @freshlengths
Try wrapping some wavy braiding hair around your ponytail when you’ve got some time to spare in your schedule. This cornrowed low ponytail combo is both sporty and elegant, making it a great option for attending a post-workout social gathering.
How do you style your hair to prepare for a workout? Which of these styles would work best for your routine? As always, share your thoughts below.
This time of year comes with lots of anticipation for the new year ahead. New hopes and resolutions, new adventures and,–you guessed it–new products to keep the curls looking lovely. Now is the perfect time to reinvent your look and test that one product you’ve been meaning to try, or re-up on your dependable favs in preparation for future styling.
For curlies with tight ringlets and coils in need of a 2022 product overhaul, look no further. We’ve sorted the top styling products for natural hair as voted by YOU, the NaturallyCurly community. These are the NaturallyCurly Best of the Best award winners according to Type 3 Curly voters and Type 4 Coily voters. If you have a looser, wavy curl pattern, check out our top wavy picks here.
What do the hair “Types” mean?
The categories “Type 2 Wavy,” Type 3 Curly,” and “Type 4 Coily” are ways to describe the size of the curl pattern. We know that the term “curly” is too broad to describe all of the different shapes, sizes, and varieties of curls. If you want to learn more, try our Texture Typing Quiz. Understanding your curl pattern (whether you’re wavy, curly, or coily”> is only one facet of your hair type. There’s also your hair’s porosity, density, and width, and you can learn about all of it by taking the quiz.
Best Styling Creams
Best Styling Cream for Type 3 Curls:
SheaMoisture Coconut and Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie
Price: $7.99 on Amazon
SheaMoisture’s classic curl cream has been bringing an amazing amount of moisture and definition to the natural community for years, with organic shea butter, neem oil, and silk protein. The super rich formula is made without harsh ingredients and with thick curls in mind, but just a small amount is enough to soften and clump hair while maintaining the proper volume, which keeps it on the top of everybody’s must-have list.
Best Styling Cream for Type 4 Coils:
Melanin Haircare Twist-Elongating Cream
Price: $16.99 at Ulta
Need something light? The Melanin Haircare Twist-Elongating Cream is hydrating and reduces knots, and it’s buildable. Whether dealing with thick or thin hair, wet or dry, this vitamin-rich product will set you up for some high-quality twist-outs. The clean list of ingredients and vegan formula is the cherry on top.
Best Hair Gels
Best Gel for Type 3 Curls:
Ecoco Eco Styler Argan Oil Gel
Price: $4.70 on Amazon
When it comes to reliable gels that create a soft hold without the annoying flakes, there’s no surprise why Eco Styler gel is the top contender for both Type 3 and 4 hair.
A tip: try starting out with a small amount of this gel and build it up as needed. Immediately going in with a ton of gel on fine hair is a recipe for residue and visible buildup.
Best Gel for Type 4 Coils:
Ecoco Eco Styler Olive Oil Gel
Price: $7.74 on Amazon
The main difference between these two Ecoco Eco Styler Gels is the type of oil in each product. The olive oil gel may be a bit more moisturizing for dry kinky curls, but either product will leave your style looking shiny with a hold that lasts from morning ‘til night.
Best Hair Butter
Best Hair Butter for Type 3 Curls and Type 4 Coils:
Camille Rose Naturals Almond Jai Twisting Butter
$16.97 on Amazon
This sweet-smelling butter was voted the Best of the Best award winner for all hair types. The soft texture of the butter itself transfers well to tight curls and coils, especially if they’re on the dry side. Treat your hair to a cocktail of pumpkin, macadamia, and olive oil mixed into an almond milk-base to set off your wash-and-go or twist-out. Or simply apply it as a leave-in for added moisture.
Best Edge Control
Best Edge Control for Type 3 Curls:
Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Strengthening Edge Gel
Price: $6.89 on Amazon
It’s far from necessary, but there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of smoothing your edges to complete a look. Kind of like adding some garnish to an already-perfect meal, it just works every time. And, ironically, as much as we love styling it, the hair around our edges is often the most fragile, making Mielle’s biotin-infused gel a prime choice for laying baby hairs while also nourishing and strengthening them. Add shine and hydration while promoting healthy hair growth.
Best Edge Control for Type 4 Coils:
Creme of Nature Argan Oil Perfect Edges
Price: $5.90 on Amazon
The Creme of Nature Argan Oil Perfect Edges promises a strong hold and sleek shine not only for edges, but for smoother sculpting of the hair. Try this to smooth out wayward fly-aways for any ponytail or sculpted style.
Best Stylers for Twists and Braids
Best Stylers for Type 3 Twists and Braids
Ampro Shine ‘N Jam Conditioning Gel Extra Hold
Price: $8.80 on Amazon
If you’re a protective style aficionado, you know keeping frizziness at bay helps to ensure you can keep your braids or twists in as long as possible. Ampro’s gel offers a non-greasy and alcohol-free hold that’s ideal for Type 3 curls.
Best Stylers for Type 4 Twists and Braids
Mielle Organics Pomegranate & Honey Twisting Soufflé
Price: $17.50 on Amazon
The next time you install a protective style, try adding a bit of Mielle Organics Pomegranate & Honey Twisting Soufflé from root to tip (especially at the roots!”> for a super polished finish. Mielle’s twisting cream provides a moisturizing soft hold using natural and organic ingredients, created specifically for thick Type 4 hair.
Best Hair Sprays
Best Hair Spray for Type 3 Curls:
Bounce Curl Hair Spray
Price: $17.99 on BounceCurl.com
With only two or three sprays of Bounce Curl Hair Spray, you’ll have an even, medium-strong hold that won’t budge even on the most humid summer days. It’s infused with oils and extracts (black seed oil, sage extract, panax ginseng root extract”> and a non-harmful, man-made fragrance derived mostly from plants.
Best Hair Spray for Type 4 Coils:
Got2b Glued Blasting Freeze Spray
Price: $11.37 on Amazon
The hold of Got2b Glued products is still unmatched, with the brand’s hairspray making the top of our list. Your hair won’t budge, and the style will last until the next wash.
Best Mousses
Best Mousse for Type 3 Curls
Not Your Mother’s Curl Talk Curl Activating Mousse
Price: $8.99 at Ulta
Give your wash-and-go a little extra help with a defining mousse. The Not Your Mother’s Curl Talk Curl Activating Mousse enhances your curl pattern and puts a stop to frizziness, even in pesky moist weather conditions–but keeps it light. No crunchiness, sulfates, silicones, parabens, alcohols, protein or gluten.
Best Mousse for Type 4 Coils
The Doux Mousse Def Texture Foam
Price: $16.99 on Amazon
The Doux Mousse Def Texture Foam defines curls and preserves your smooth and sleek styles. Using natural humectants and silk protein, this product can be applied evenly on wet curly styles or to blown out styles prior to blow drying for extra shine, hold, and humidity resistance.
Best Volumizer
Best Volumizer for Type 3 Curls:
AG Hair Natural Cloud Airtight Volumizing Mousse
Price: $28 on Amazon
The weightless AG Hair Natural Cloud Airtight Volumizing Mousse will guarantee that your styles never fall flat. With 98% plant-based ingredients, it offers instant volume (natural cornstarch, tilia tomentosa bud extract, sugar cane extract”>, heat protection, frizz prevention, and detangling ability (sweet almond oil, linseed, olive leaf, and arnica extracts”>.
Best Volumizer for Type 4 Coils:
Pattern Beauty Hair Pick
Price: $9
Lift and add body to your curls with a pick to the roots of your hair. This Pattern Beauty pick features extra long teeth for more control when your hair needs a boost.
What styling products got you through the year? Are you interested in any new ones? Sound off in the comments below.
While it may be best to have a well-rounded hair routine and a product line up that covers all bases, let’s be real — when it comes to curlies, it’s the conditioners for us. Of course you need to cleanse thoroughly (and regularly, as you see fit“>, and styling products are a key to achieving definition and baby hair goals, but pliable and moisturized hair sets the stage for healthier looking, stronger curls across the board. For dryness-prone Type 4 curls this is doubly true. Believe us when we say, a trusty leave-in, deep conditioner, or even a co-wash will set you up for the best hair days to come.
Take a look at some of the most popular ones of the year for tight coily and curly hair below, selected by you, the NaturallyCurly community. We just announced the NaturallyCurly Best of the Best awards for 2021, awards voted on entirely by the NaturallyCurly community! These conditioners were YOUR top picks according to Type 4 voters.
Not sure what your hair type is? Take the quiz to learn more about your porosity, density, width and curl pattern!
Best Conditioner: AG Hair Natural Boost Apple Cider Vinegar Conditioner
Naturals who prioritize clean ingredients will feel right at home with this one. With a formula boasting 98% plant-based and naturally-derived ingredients, this conditioner targets both your hair and scalp. Organic mango seed butter, shea butter, coconut oil and other moisturizing ingredients are combined to replenish your hair with essential vitamins and fatty acids. Then, organic apple cider vinegar seals your hair’s cuticles to give that shiny finish while also reducing extra oiliness on the scalp. The apple cider vinegar also makes this one an ideal choice for locking in color on dyed hair.
$30 on Amazon
Best Co-Washing/Cleansing Conditioner: As I Am Coconut CoWash Cleansing Conditioner
It’s not exactly a substitute for a cleansing shampoo, but if you need something light to get you through until your next wash day, this long-time fan favorite has exactly what you need. This cleansing conditioner can remove product build up and excess oil from the scalp, while being extremely gentle and moisturizing on the hair, making it perfect for more regular cleansing if you’re really into keeping the curls clean. It also preserves the effectiveness of keratin treatments (regular shampoos can strip them”>, and provides enough slip to make detangling short and sweet.
$12.78 on Amazon
Best Deep Conditioner: TGIN (Thank God It’s Natural”> Honey Miracle Mask
If you’ve been pondering on if you should add a deep conditioner to your routine, let this be a sign to start here. It’s worth a try, especially if breakage is a concern, and it might change your life (especially if it’s done regularly”>. Regardless of whether or not you’re a deep conditioning vet, this award-winning product has been a tried-and-true staple among naturals for years. It’s a honey and olive oil-infused creamy conditioner that will restore vitamins A, D, and E to tired and dry hair in as little as 35 minutes. As a natural humectant, honey draws in and locks moisture. In other words: it’ll help you kick split ends, breakage, and tangles to the proverbial curb where they belong.
$14.09 on Amazon
Best Leave-In: Mielle Organics Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave In
Not every lightweight leave-in can handle truly thick, curly/coily hair (trust me, I’ve had my fair share of ‘lightweight formula’ disasters”>, but this is absolutely an exception. This one smooths easily onto wet or damp kinky curls and is easily spread onto voluminous hair to allow malleability for whatever the next steps are in your routine, whether that’s styling or detangling. Applying a generous amount of this popular citrus-scented (from citrus extracts”> conditioner will leave your hair shinier and with minimal frizz.
$12.34 on Amazon
Best New Line: Adwoa Beauty Blue Tansy Reparative Conditioner
Adwoa Beauty won the award for Best New Line, and with its fresh and modern take on natural hair care and unique (but clean!”> ingredients, it’s no wonder why the brand is steadily increasing in popularity. The namesake ingredient, blue tansy oil, is derived from a blue tansy flower and it, along with the avocado and buriti seed oils in this formula, can improve elasticity and shine. Breakage and hair weakness won’t be an issue with the protein boost and incredible level of slip this conditioner offers. And it achieves all this with no sulfates, parabens, mineral oil, petroleum, alcohols, or silicones and while being vegan, gluten-free and cruelty-free. All of the amazing hair results, without the guilt – we love that.
$22 on Adwoa.com
What’s your opinion on this year’s winners? What are some other amazing conditioners that you would add to this list? Drop your comments below.
One moisturizing method that has withstood the test of time and trends in the natural community is the ever-popular LOC method, an acronym for liquid/leave-in conditioner, oil, and cream. And no matter your hair type or curl pattern, there’s a version of the LOC method for you.
What is the LOC Method?
The LOC Method is a specific order of layering products that was created to maximize moisture for dry hair, and extend the life of wash-and-go’s, twist outs, and other styling routines. L-O-C stands for liquid/leave-in, oil, cream.
- Liquid – For new naturals or those new to the LOC technique, liquid generally means a water-based leave-in, a mixture of water and your favorite conditioner, or just plain old water.
- Oil – is pretty self-explanatory! It’s usually a natural oil that will coat the hair strands and prevent moisture from escaping.
- Cream – Creams are meant to be the heavy-hitters of this method—a heavy cream reinforces hydration and adds a little weight and hold to your hair.
There are also many curlies who have found success by tweaking this order slightly, known as the LCO Method. It’s all about finding the routine that works best for your curls.
Whether this technique is already part of your daily regimen or you’re trying it for the first time this winter, we have some recommendations for you! Ahead, we’ll provide you with an ideal cocktail of products for wavy, curly, and coily textures that can be used in the LOC method.
The Best LOC Cocktail for Type 2: Wavy Hair
Liquid/Leave-in: Curl Junkie Curl Assurance Smoothing Lotion
This lightweight lotion can be rinsed out or used as a leave-in on dry, thirsty waves, and you only need a small amount. It contains slippery elm extract, apricot kernel, and sunflower seed oils with a sweet vanilla-cotton candy scent. As a side note, if you feel that a leave-in is too heavy for your hair, just use water or a water and leave-in mixture!
Oil: Jojoba Oil
When looking for a light oil that’s still a great sealant, jojoba oil is one of the best. You can also use it to condition the hair and scalp before shampooing.
Cream: Jessicurl Spiralicious Styling Gel – Island Fantasy
Jessicurl Styling Gel isn’t technically a cream, but gels have a similar function. For wavies that like to scrunch, this is a dream product that boasts extreme hold, with no ramen noodle crunch and no flaking.
The Best LOC Cocktail for Type 3: Curly
Liquid/Leave-in: Oyin Handmade Hair Dew or Kinky-Curly Knot Today
Oyin Hair Dew, a winner of a NaturallyCurly Editor’s Choice award and a NaturallyCurly Best of the Best award, is an extremely moisturizing leave-in, perfect to be used before sealing. And you don’t have to be afraid of it leaving your hair feeling heavy.
Kinky-Curly Knot Today, also a Best of the Best award winner is a crowd-favorite with great slip and incredible moisturizing properties. This leave-in smooths the cuticle while detangling.
Oil: Argan Oil
Argan oil generally gives a soft, non-oily finish while replenishing your curls with essential fatty acids and antioxidants.
Cream: SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie
A classic curly product, SheaMoisture’s Curl Enhancing Smoothie has a thick consistency and is enriched with organic shea butter. Smooth split ends and tames flyaways while experiencing soft, defined curls. A great product for curlies who do twist-outs.
The Best LOC Cocktail for Type 4: Coily
Liquid/Leave-in: Camille Rose Naturals Curl Love Moisture Milk or Mielle Organics Moisturizing Avocado Hair Milk
In spite of its lightness, Camille Rose Naturals Moisture Milk is very moisturizing and is one of my personal favs for thirsty coily hair. It provides a good slip and has a sweet, cake-like scent—but not overpowering. It contains all-organic ingredients.
The Mielle Organics Avocado Hair Milk, another one of my favs, might be your best friend this season. Like the Camille Rose Moisture Milk, it’s highly moisturizing and makes detangling super simple, also containing fully organic ingredients.
Oil: Black Castor Oil
Sealing type 4 cuticles sometimes call for heavier oils. JBCO is sure to seal in moisture and smooth the cuticles of tightly coiled hair.
Cream: Soultanicals Can’t Believe It’s Knot Butta
This combination of butters is hydrating and perfect for styling. Because this product is so rich, a little will go a long way. Add softness and shine to your twist-outs, braid-outs, and wash and go styles.
We want to hear about your ideal LOC product combos this season. Go ahead and tell us about it in the comments.
Photo: Unsplash
In response to the economic devastation of the coronavirus pandemic, we’ve seen an upswing in initiatives that aim to give Black women the financial support needed to maintain their businesses and bridge the funding and investment gap. But even before the added financial weight of the pandemic, almost half of all African American women business owners said they struggled to secure business financing, despite the fact that Black women are starting businesses at such a high rate (six times the national average”>.
In an article on Black-owned beauty businesses and access to capital, Allure references “Readiness is the New Green,” a recent economic data study on business and multicultural beauty from Ready to Beauty. The data found that there may be a significant disconnect between what Black business owners say they need from the beauty industry for a successful business, and what the general market assumes they need.
What Black founders really need
Out of a panel of 70 Black founders and professionals in the beauty industry and 70 professionals in the general beauty market, 93 percent of the general market panelists believed that the top priority of reform for the beauty industry should be to help Black entrepreneurs with mentoring and business management skills, while 92 percent of the Black entrepreneurs place investments and capital as the top economic reform needed for Black business in the beauty industry. These outcomes suggest that while expertise in the field of entrepreneurship and branding may be helpful to small Black-owned businesses, those brands will ultimately need an opportunity to form relationships with investors and receive intentional financial support in order to see a real change in the industry.
In addition to challenges with access to business funding, individual stylists also face systematic barriers in advancing their professional careers. The cost of cosmetology school can be an obstacle, and in an industry that is so insular and exclusionary of people of color, it can be extremely difficult for Black women to enter into elite spaces in the profession of curly hair care without the proper connections.
Ahead, we’ve highlighted a few program initiatives that are working to level the playing field through hands-on mentoring experience and financial investments that business owners and stylists will want to keep on their radar.
3 Initiatives That Are Empowering—and Funding—The Next Generation of Black Stylists And Beauty Entrepreneurs
1. TRESemmé Future Stylist Fund
Black female stylists deserve access to the same educational and experiential opportunities as non-Black women–especially in an industry that gains inspiration from Black hair practices. TRESemmé’s Future Stylists Fund is addressing that issue with its annual program that reinforces the company’s commitment to equitable treatment and diversity among hair professionals. A selection committee of expert and celebrity stylists chooses 10 applicants to receive $10,000 each, industry exposure, and career advancing opportunities annually.
“It’s still an elitist space,” explains celebrity stylist, entrepreneur, and TRESemmé selection committee member Nai’vasha Johnson. “If you’re not brought into the space from someone in this space, it’s difficult to get started. I’ve had an extremely difficult time getting here, and discrimination within the industry is something that I deal with to this day.”
This lack of representation shows itself in other ways, as well. Black hair is a huge percentage of the hair care market, yet there aren’t many celebrity stylists who know how to care for highly textured hair. “People pay a lot of money for hair education, but our hair is being treated as extracurricular, when, in fact, it should be taught as a basic curriculum,” Nai’vasha says. “My hope is that this program will create a welcoming way for Black women to enter the beauty space.”
Furthermore, the presence of young, Black stylists in elite spaces could change the beauty industry, possibly bringing new techniques and innovations. “I am so inspired by the younger generation of stylists, I love how savvy this generation is,” says celebrity stylist, Unilever global stylist, and selection committee member Lacy Reday. “The way they use social media to their advantage, and the way they discover new techniques and different ways of learning is amazing.”
And, while $10,000 is an incredible gift that will help aspiring stylists with tuition costs, the biggest benefit of the program lies with the experience, “It’s a blessing to have financial help, but having access to stylists is important. It’s not easy to get on my assistant roster, but with this, you kind of get a boost. You get visibility, and mentorship boosts your confidence.”
Follow @tresemme on Instagram to stay up to date on the next round of applications in 2022.
2. Walker’s Legacy Foundation
In the philanthropic spirit of Madame C.J. Walker, the Walker’s Legacy Foundation is committed to female economic empowerment, funded through her entrepreneurialism. This initiative focuses on improving the livelihood and economic condition of low-income women through programs in financial literacy, entrepreneurship training, and business development.
The foundation frequently offers grant programs in addition to its “Women Who Enterprise” accelerated business training programs, which are targeted toward addressing the specific challenges of women of color in entrepreneurship. This curriculum is designed to increase the participant’s access to funding, networks, and confidence in their ability to operate their own business.
Walker’s Legacy along with American Express, the National Black Chamber of Commerce, National Business League, and U.S. Black Chambers, Inc., have formed a “Coalition to Back Black Business” which will distribute $5,000 grants to more than 250 applicants every fall, from 2020-2023 in response to the COVID-19 pandemic, for a grand total of $10 million.
Take a look at the full list of requirements and apply now.
3. Fearless Fund
If the world of venture capital seems out of reach for you as a woman of color and beauty entrepreneur, look no further than the Fearless Fund initiative. It’s led by women of color seeking to finance businesses in early stages of funding which are run by women of color, as a response to women (and particularly non-White women”> being historically underfunded in business.
In addition, the Fearless fund offers VC Week, a virtual and in-person educational experience and introduction to venture capital (and the tickets are free!”>, a 12-month venture capital training program, and a $10,000 grant program for COVID relief.
If you’re looking to quickly scale your business and journey into venture capital, check out their investment criteria and pitch to the Fearless Fund.
If there’s one lesson to be learned over the past year (and truthfully there are quite a few”>, it’s that the environment we live in—and the planet itself—is responsive to all of our small decisions. The food we eat, the clothes we wear, and the formulation and packaging of our go-to holy grail products can all have an effect on the state of our earth’s dynamic ecosystems. As the public conversation surrounding climate change becomes more commonplace and its effects become more immediate in media and in the minds of conscious consumers, beauty brands are slowly evolving to usher in a new era of sustainable products. It may involve a bit more searching than your typical product hunt, but there’s a growing pool of environmentally-savvy hair care brands that provide eco-friendly product options to take your textured and curly hair to the next level, from wash day to protective styling. If you’re ready to switch out some of your current product stash for a more sustainable alternative, let us fill you in on some top contenders. Scroll on for 10 hair care brands that are ready to take on the challenge.
1. Ecoslay
Ecoslay’s company values are all centered around bringing you products with organic ingredients, while shifting their packaging from single-use plastics to stylish refillable pouches and glass jars. Each order is shipped from a kitchen—there’s no warehouse! And although the products are made with a ton of natural ingredients, all Ecoslay products are formulated with the bare minimum amount of preservatives to ensure the longest possible shelf-life.
The product line includes all kinds of wash-day products, but the Orange Marmalade and Jello Shot are must-tries. These highly rated gels deliver frizz-free hold. For super-thick curls, try the Jello Shot, for added slip when detangling, pick up the Orange Marmalade.
2. Rebundle
Calling all protective style queens–your box braids and passion twists don’t have to irritate your scalp! Rebundle has taken on the task of creating non-toxic, eco-friendly hair extensions and braiding hair. After taking down your protective style, send the plastic synthetic hair to Rebundle where it will be repurposed into furniture and lawn and garden tools. Do your next braided style with their lightweight, itch-free, biodegradable braiding hair, which is available in six colors. When you’re done with it, you can have confidence that it’ll be safe to add to your home compost or yard waste.
3. EVOLVh
EVOLVh calls its products “skincare for your hair.” This science-backed line features the clean ingredients that we love to see in a product, but using advanced technology to create unique blends of natural active ingredients. The company has moved all of its manufacturing and shipping operations to a single location, which has significantly reduced its carbon footprint, and packaging changes are soon to come with PCR components and glass options. If you need your products to do multiple jobs, check out the WonderBalm Magic for Curls. It fights frizz and flyaways, moisturizes dry hair, defines curls with no crunch, protects against heat & UV damage, and more. It’s a plant-based serum that will never weigh your hair down.
4. SheaMoisture
This familiar fan-favorite brand is full of hidden gems. When you purchase SheaMoisture products, you’re supporting communities of women in Africa who handcraft the raw shea butter. The brand has, of course, always been sulfate and paraben-free, but their natural shampoo bars are actually the perfect wash-day option to avoid plastic bottles. Simply massage your hair and scalp with the shampoo bar as you would your body in the shower. Choose from the 100% Virgin Coconut Oil Rhassoul Clay, Coconut Hibiscus Rhassoul Clay, and Jamaican Black Castor Oil Bentonite Clay shampoo bars.
5. Lush
This classic beauty brand has always had the goal of minimizing its harmful environmental impact, and maximizing quality. Lush tries to keep packaging to a minimum where possible, and encourages its customers to bring in empty containers for recycling. In recent years, their curly hair options have increased, including their best-selling Avocado Co-Wash (made with fresh avocado”> which provides a gentle, nourishing cleanse for dry curly, coily, or textured hair. Simply slide the bar over your hair or hands while washing to get a creamy lather.
6. Function of Beauty
When you need a product that’s specific to your head of hair, Function of Beauty will have your back no matter the product or hair type. By taking their hair quiz, it allows you to create your own product experience based on your hair’s needs. Every product is cruelty-free, 100% vegan, and packaged in recyclable bottles, jars, and pumps. The company is steadily shifting toward using PCR bottles (bottles made from already-used plastics”>. Try their custom leave-in conditioner–there’s nothing like having a moisturizing base for styling that was created for your curls and your curls only.
7. Innersense
Innersense is focused on bringing luxurious, organic, professional-quality products created by beauty professionals to consumers. All products are made without the typical harmful additives (parabens, silicones, sulfates, etc.”>, while the company aims to become “plastic neutral.” By investing in bottles made with recycled plastics, Innersense hopes to encourage a circular economy and market of sustainable packaging, and pursue even more packaging alternatives in the future as they become available. For curlies with thick and coarse hair, treat your curls to the popular emollient-rich Hydrating Cream Conditioner with organic rice, quinoa, flaxseed, shea butter, and coconut.
8. Briogeo
This Black-owned brand offers products for all textures and hair concerns, from hair damage, to lack of volume, to general curl care. Briogeo even has simplified recommended product regimens with only a few steps, to take the guesswork out of mixing and matching products. All products are mostly vegan and naturally derived, and all Briogeo bottles are made with at least 25% recycled plastic. Add their Charcoal + Coconut Oil Micro-exfoliating Shampoo to your self-care regimen.
9. A Simple Planet
A simple ingredient strategy, an earth-friendly foundation, and an emphasis on every hair type from its origins helps A Simple Planet stand out among similar brands. Their focus is on products that reduce potential allergens and irritation and reused shipping materials (using 100% post-consumer products”> and shipping filler that is on its second use. This brand is wholly dedicated to clean living. The Detangler is made for all hair textures and is perfect for both adults and little ones. It’ll leave your curls weightless and without snags.
10. Yarok
Founded by celebrity stylist and aromatherapist Mordechai Alvov, Yarok aims to nourish the scalp first with vegan ingredients, and soothe the senses with aromatic essential oils. Sounds heavenly, right? In addition to a dedication to relaxation, Yarok is very transparent about its efforts to minimize its carbon footprint. All its product labels are created with 80% non-GMO corn, which is the most environmentally friendly paper alternative that is also waterproof. The Feed Your Moisture Masque would be the perfect addition to your very own home aromatherapy session. Treat tired curly or color treated hair and scalp to an intensely moisturizing coco créme, aloe vera gel, fresh wild harvested seaweed treat. Three percent of all profits will go to the Pachamama Alliance which protects 10 million acres of Amazon rainforest.
Are you in the process of creating a more sustainable textured hair regimen? Give us some extra tips on how to get started on an eco-friendly hair journey in the comments below.
At this time of year, protective styling is a godsend. Apart from damage protection, a lot of the beauty of protective styling lies in the opportunity for versatility and effortlessness, so it’s no surprise that many naturals opt to keep their hair twisted, braided, or crocheted for a season or two. And out of the abundance of these new creative twisted and braided styles, Bohemian-inspired twists of all lengths and sizes known as passion twists have come out on top this year.
The brainchild of Miami hairstylist Kailyn Rogers, passion twists have gone viral for their simultaneously glam and carefree look, and the style’s incredibly easy maintenance. If you haven’t already tried this charming and uncomplicated style, consider it for your next fall protective style. Ahead, we’ll fill you in on what exactly passion twists are, how to get the look (or how to install them yourself”>, and how to keep them looking fresh until you’re ready to take them out.
Senegalease Twists, Goddess Locs, Passion Twists? What’s The Difference?
Source: @_cicimichele
To the untrained eye (myself included”>, passion twists can look very similar to other twisted and braided styles, but the distinction of passion twists is that they are created with looser-textured synthetic hair, particularly Freetress Water Wave hair. While goddess locs are focused on recreating the look of messy locs (not twists”>, and Senegalease twists are clean and neat, passion twists reside somewhere in the middle–two-strand twists that are meant to look perfectly imperfect, and even slightly “undone.” And with this style’s immense popularity, there have been multiple different takes on their length, colors, and twist sizes, ensuring that there’s a passion twist look for just about every natural.
How Passion Twists Are Installed
Source: @goldynaps
Along with dozens of more recent tutorials, Rogers, aka The Boho Babe, posted a step-by-step tutorial to YouTube in 2018 detailing how she achieved the coveted look on her own 4B/4C hair–but this style suits any texture. To create this look on your own you’ll need Freetress Water Wave hair, ECO Style Gel, a leave-in, an edge control, a foaming lotion, and a trusty rat tail comb to lay a clean brick pattern. Using 9 packs of Freetress Water Wave hair, Rogers twists her hair into the synthetic hair, continuing all the way down, and repeats. You can determine the shape of the twists by how loosely or tightly you pull. The overall process doesn’t look difficult and if you’ve got about 8 hours and some energy to spare, you can save money by attempting this style yourself. Pricing will vary by stylist and location, but you will save the couple hundred dollars that would have gone towards installation.
If you don’t have the time to install this style, fear not–most natural stylists who do protective styles have done passion twists. And if you live in the Miami area, you’re in luck. You can visit The Boho Babe and get passion twists from the creator, herself.
How To Maintain Passion Twists Long-Term
Source: @rahelbrhane_
When it comes to maintaining protective styles, maintaining the natural hair underneath is equally as important, according to Rogers’ website. Especially when you’re wearing protective styles for 6+ weeks, it’s important to keep your hair and scalp moisturized, and passion twists are no different. Leave-in sprays (a store-bought spray or leave-in + water mixture”> work perfectly here!
When it comes to cleansing your scalp in this style, however, you’ll want to be careful about over-washing–but don’t ignore wash day. You’ll still want to tend to your scalp and new growth. Too much washing will encourage frizziness in the twists, but a bit of frizz definitely adds to the overall look!
If you want to prolong the lifespan of this style, you can separate the twists into 4 sections, distribute a non-sulfate shampoo throughout the roots of each section, and rinse. After the hair is sufficiently dry, distribute the leave-in conditioner and oil of choice. In-between washes, try distributing a small amount of dry shampoo on the roots and scalp.
If you’ve tried passion twists, how have they worked for you as a protective style? Did you install them yourself? Let us know your take in the comments.
Pictured: Aeleise Harris Ollarvia of Black Curl Magic, Co-Founder of #30DayHairDetox
If you tend to keep close tabs on all of the consumable media dealing with the latest “healthy hair discourse,” you’ve probably realized that the abundance of textured hair advice online can be a bit of a mixed bag. And it’s okay, we can say it–it’s a lot to keep up with. Social media comment sections are overflowing with (occasionally heated”> debates on hair maintenance. Shampoo with sulfates vs. without (or not using shampoo at all”>, brushing vs. not brushing, shopping for products solely through the hair typing system vs. shopping based on the individual’s specific head of hair, etc. In recent months, one of the most contentious topics the community has grappled with is not using moisturizing/styling products at all.
A quick dive into YouTube’s natural hair rabbit hole will uncover page after page of content discussing whether or not naturals should kick all oils and butters to the curb. Yes, that means no leave-ins, no creams, no moisturizers, and certainly no sealing oils–just shampoo, conditioner, a deep conditioner, and maybe a little gel if you’re feeling fancy. On one hand, you have people who subscribe to the idea that oils do not moisturize hair, but block the hair from receiving moisture, and are even “bad” for hair. On the other hand, it’s also a common thought that oils are the key to “sealing” moisture into textured hair, particularly in the case of high porosity hair, among a variety of other uses.
Are oils “bad” for your hair?
So that leads us to this question: are oils “bad” for your hair? According to professional stylists and chemists, the answer is mostly no (let the product junkies rejoice!”>. But there is a bit of a grey area, of course.
In a YouTube video weighing in on the debate, cosmetic chemist Tonya Lane says that the idea that oils are harmful to your hair is “crazy.” “In our hair care regimen, oils are designed to either penetrate the hair or to protect the hair. And our hair is made up of oils.” Lane notes, of course, that there are other components like protein and keratin, but there are tons of oils in hair, as well. “There’s cholesterol, there’s ceramide, there’s fatty acids, there’s triglycerides. All of those are oils.” Typically when it comes to oils that penetrate the hair strand, Lane says those are going to be oils like coconut, avocado, olive, and babassu. Because of their molecular makeup, they can easily fit between the hair’s cuticles not to moisturize, but to fend off hygral fatigue, or holes in the cuticles caused by repeated swelling and shrinking.
And don’t disregard those oils that “sit on top” of the hair. They’re called polyunsaturated fatty acids, and Lane explains how they can be useful in textured hair care. “Even though these oils don’t really penetrate the hair, they do create a film around the hair that protects the hair. For a long time, people thought that films on the hair were a bad thing, but no, they’re actually really good. They also reduce the surface friction of the hair [the ability for the hair strands to glide past one another and not tangle].” Oils that fall under this category would be ones like hemp, sunflower, safflower, and grapeseed.
What “no oils or butters” really means
Overall, oils are just as important as other products in a balanced hair routine, but the key lies in using the right kind of product, and using it properly. Expert stylists Aisha Strickland and Aeleise Harris Ollarvia of Black Curl Magic tackled the “no oils or butters” convo on a livestream in March in which they clarified what “no oils or butters” really means. Strickland and Harris Ollarvia are founders of the #30DayHairDetox which challenges naturals to wash with shampoo (even better, a clarifying shampoo”> and to avoid applying raw butters and oils to the hair. “No butters, no oils means no raw oils, no raw butters. And by ‘raw’ we mean single ingredient, or concoctions that somebody made in their kitchen,” Harris Ollarvia says in the livestream. “We’re not necessarily talking about the use of well-formulated products that are formulated with high quality processed butters and oils in them. Because there is a very big difference between products that use quality processed shea butter and cheaply processed shea butter.” In other words, those homemade shea butter deep conditioners might not give you the results you think it will–the molecules are too big. But using a moisturizing product with a well-processed shea butter derivative, on the other hand, is perfectly acceptable.
“No butters, no oils means no raw oils, no raw butters. And by ‘raw’ we mean single ingredient, or concoctions that somebody made in their kitchen” – Harris Ollarvia
What does using no oils or butters do to hair?
As far as the consensus for using no oils, butters, or moisturizing products from the people who have tried it, the method has received mixed reviews to say the least. Some people really enjoy the newfound freedom and pride in their hair texture sans products, like beauty influencer and entrepreneur Jade Kendle, and for others like Danielle Glover aka Star Puppy, forgoing all traces of oils and butters causes more stress than it’s worth. Danielle mentions the lack of malleability her 4C hair had without these products, as well as intense shrinkage and a “dry” feeling.
The takeaway
If there’s one overarching point to take away from this debate, it’s this: natural hair care methods are not all encompassing. If your current routine is taking care of your hair’s needs and you and/or your stylist see no signs of damage (i.e. breakage, dryness, curl pattern loss, hair loss, etc.”>, then there is no need to trash your leave-ins, curl creams, or styling butters anytime soon. The most important method to follow is the one that works for you and your hair.
How do oils and butters work for your hair? Have you tried cutting raw oils and raw butters out of your regimen?
Sound off in the comments.
Image: istock
About 80 million people in the United States experience hair loss according to The American Academy of Dermatology. It can be a symptom of illness, age, genetics or simply poor hair care habits. There are also a number of myths that have circulated the news and blogs world-wide as to what contributes to baldness and hair loss in both men and women. Surprisingly, only a handful of these are actually true.
Read on to see what’s fact and what’s fiction.
1. The average person loses 50-100 hairs per day
Truth: According to the American Academy of Dermatology, this is the normal amount of hair strands we lose on a daily basis. As your hair grows longer, it may seem as if you are losing more hair; this is normal. However, if you are losing hair in large clumps don’t hesitate to consult a medical professional. It could be the result of early stages of alopecia, insufficient diet, or another serious ailment.
2. Constant exposure to sun encourages balding
Myth: Tanning beds, tanning booths, and natural sunlight do not contribute to hair loss. BUT, according to the National Institutes of Health, it is beneficial to protect the scalp in already-thinning and bald areas from sun damage–use sunscreen if you feel it’s necessary. Excessive exposure to UV-radiation can also contribute to breakage and dull hair.
3. Over-using hair care practices like bleaching and perms, hair dyes can be a key factor in hair loss
Truth: Try to limit the number of these practices on a monthly basis. Bleach is harsh, particularly on textured hair, and you should expect changes to your overall hair health. It raises the hair cuticle in order to remove the natural color from the hair and it also removes moisture, which results in weaker and more brittle hair. A perm is similar to bleaching in that it is a permanent process that involves adding chemicals to the hair to change its form, so it is potentially damaging, as well.
4. Hats can cause hair loss
Myth: Not to fear–keep your hats and scarves handy, but clean. Dirty hats, headwraps, and bandannas can cause infections that lead to hair loss so it’s important to wash them frequently. The hat would have to be very tight to cause hair-loss issues.
5. Hair loss/thinning may be temporary
Truth: Certain events such as childbirth, menopause and severe stress can cause excessive hair to fall out–but thankfully, usually only for a temporary period of time. As long as there are still healthy follicles present in the area where hair loss occurred, the hair will eventually grow back.
6. Trauma causes hair loss
Partial Truth: Physical and emotional trauma can cause hair to fall out, but, if it was meant to grow back, it will. Stress and anxiety are two big culprits of hair loss and can cause large portions of hair to fall out. Dietary and medication changes attribute to this as well. Quick shifts in weight loss and gain can also contribute to loss or thinning.
7. Loading up on carbs can lead to hair loss
Myth: Carbs and red meats provide the necessary vitamins and nourishment that hair needs. Meat provides necessary protein for your hair, considering hair is made of mostly protein; but of course you can find protein in other food sources as well. Supplements and vitamins can help to restoring healthy, fuller hair.
8. Millions of people, both men and women, experience hair loss
Truth: Hereditary hair loss is a medical condition that affects about 30 million women and 50 million men of all ages. Hair loss can be inherited from either the mother’s or father’s side, and there is such a thing as female pattern baldness as well as male pattern baldness, though it affects men more often. The medical term for both is androgenic alopecia.
9. Using hairspray and hair gel may lead to hair loss
Myth: Products don’t cause hair loss. However, over-primping with the curling iron, flat iron and stretching (straightening hair with blow dryers”> can certainly contribute to the problem. Also, curlies and coilies who who like to use gel for their edges should be wary of how often they use it and what kind. Excessive manipulation with gels can put unnecessary stress on your hair– and no one wants to be edgeless.
10. Nutrition is key in hair loss prevention
Truth: When the body doesn’t get enough protein, hair growth will slow down. Keep a healthy balance of meats, eggs and fish in your diet. Do not take in too much vitamin A either – this will also slow hair growth. Iron is also key and not enough iron in the diet will lead to hair loss. Iron-deficiency anemia is actually the most common nutritional deficiency that causes hair loss and hair breakage; make sure to get plenty of rich green vegetables and legumes in your diet.
Experiencing hair loss? Check out this article for more information and possible solutions.
This article has been updated.
