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Black Maternal Week signifies a movement in which Black mothers acknowledge the race disparity in reproductive health. The week calls for uplifting expectant Black mothers and prioritizing resources for their well-being. Black Mama’s Alliance, along with many advocacy organizations, caters to motherhood and the dwindling mortality rate.
Along with battling reproductive organs and hormonal changes, Black women’s hair is jeopardized during pregnancy.
Mothers are expected to lose strands pre and postpartum—causing a decline in mental health since Black women pride themselves in their crown.
Dr. Andy Goren, board-certified dermatologist, trichologist, and Chief Medical Officer at Daniel Alain, assures in recovering poor scalp health since the topic is continually overlooked in the hair care industry. Goren advocates protecting the hair follicles, especially to expectant mothers.
The scientist shares tips for recovering hair loss and growth in honor of Black Maternal Health Week.
What To Expect (In The Scalp) When You’re Expecting
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The certified doctor says the influx of hormones causes scalp changes contingent on the stage of pregnancy, individual genetics, health status, and diet. The symptoms in the scalp vary from dryness to sebaceous but most than likely cause itchiness. Goren says the pregnancy triggers circulating and tissue hormones.
Hair, nails, and skin are connected with these hormones, and new mothers may notice an increase in hair growth in the scalp, face, and arms. However, postpartum accompanies significant hair loss called telogen effluvium—which is a dreadful transition welcoming motherhood. Goren confesses the condition is temporary, and the hair follicles will revert to normal months after delivery.
“The mechanism of action leading to postpartum hair loss is not entirely clear; however, it is believed that the change of hormones combined with the stress of delivery results in rapid hair shedding,” he says.
Image Source: @gettyimages
Does Race and Hair Texture Contribute As A Major Factor In Hair Loss?
Though Black women face negligence in maternal care, Goren incurs research demonstrating hair loss comparing ethnic groups during pregnancy has not been studied “in a systematic way.” However, the expert says the itchiness and dry scalp may “manifest” more in some ethnic groups than others. Also, Dr. Goren reveals pregnancy plays a significant role in the density of curly hair textures. He expresses that in certain cases, circulating hormones amplify the “curliness” in one’s textures, or some women lose the volume of their natural hair.
Consult Your Physician Before Treating Your Scalp
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Hair loss can be a major transition, but Dr. Goren suggests communicating with a professional before incorporating undiagnosed treatments to avoid complications. He says vitamins or hair growth medication should be avoided and secondary to maternal care.
“Some hair growth drugs, such as minoxidil, can potentially affect the fetus,” he says. “Some products and drugs (such as anti-androgens) are often effective at growing hair; however, this category of products can significantly affect sexual characteristics of the developing fetus.”
Dr. Goren dismisses any treatment that enters the bloodstream but believes over-the-counter shampoos, conditioners, and moisturizers are primarily safe and provide a feel of “healthier and fuller hair.”
Image Source: @beeblondor
Like the physician, hair stylist, and Bee Blondor Studio salon owner, Brittney Aub-Constantin believes in a holistic approach to nurturing her hair after birthing two children. She confesses that, being a mother and wife, she’s sometimes unprepared but still holds it down. As her family and business grow, Aub-Constantin prepares to open a headquarters in the backyard of her newly developed home.
Before the entrepreneur dedicated her energy to motherhood, she built her empire in South Florida and exceeded her expectations as a natural hair colorist. The Jamaican-American business owner prides her mom on celebrating her thick curly hair—which shifted into catering to her coils when she was expecting.
NaturallyCurly also spoke with Aub-Constantin on the best product recommendations for pregnancy.
Image Source: @jcoolitphotography
Product Recommendations
During her pregnancy, the stylist says her bleach-blonde curls became drier after her children. After 4-6 months postpartum, she says her hair starts to shed. Since Aub-Constantin focuses on colored hair, she is an avid Olaplex enthusiast. She uses their No.3 treatment to restore her hair’s moisture and follows with RedKen’s CAT protein treatment. She confesses she added rosemary to her shampoo to stimulate the scalp.
Image Source: @beeblondor
She says healthy hair and regrowth thrive from balancing protein and nourishment. Deep conditioning is vital in retaining hair strands, and the stylist suggests Biotop Professional 911 Quinoa Hair Mask. Since Aub-Constantin resides in the Miami heat, she uses Design Essentials Almond, Avocado Mousse, and BounceMe Curl Spray Gel as stylers. A budget-friendly product Aub-Constantin raves is Miss Jessie’s Leave-In Condish.
Simplify Your Routine and Stick With It
Aub-Constantin suggests not sleeping with wet hair and including low manipulation styles. Lastly the creative objects to oils and silicone-based products. She says oils do not penetrate or moisturize the hair contradicting the idea of hair growth.
Hair Advice To Mommies
Aub-Constantin reinforces taking vitamins A and D for healthy skin, hair, and nails. Additionally, stress is a common denominator in hair loss. She advises letting the body heal through every stage of motherhood.
“You want to let your scalp breathe. You want to let your body regenerate itself because you’re in a new body now,” she says.
Aub-Constantin presents herself as a colorist who perfects her craft. However, there are steps intended to follow before coloring your strands. This article gives you tips on prepping your hair before bleaching.
My natural hair journey started during my undergrad at FAMU. At first, I was ashamed that my coils didn’t blend with my extensions throughout college. I opted to wear textured extensions to avoid further heat damage but realized I neglected the hair tucked under my sew-in.
Though my relationship with my hair was toxic, it blossomed into an everlasting relationship throughout my adulthood. Now, I experiment with my coils by ensuring they’re nourished and healthy but not limiting my creativity with my hair. From flat-twists to bone-straight bobs, my hair has been through the ringer but my dedication to protecting my crown outweighs any styling extremities.
My Inspo Before The Styling Process
My stylist, Laura Bedenfield, clips my ends every three months. However, I’m almost to the five-month mark since my last visit. Even though my ends might deserve some “dusting,” I preserve my strands with high-quality products. I was determined to make my hair look like my weekend, so I decided to revitalize my dry, curled silk press with a pressed roller set.
My look is very multidimensional but timeless. I derive inspiration from the mid-to late-1900s to the mid-aughts. Truthfully, my vision for my mane dates back to 70s-inspired hair looks and fantasizing about being a hair model for Kim Kimble. Also, for hairstyles, I cosplay Pam Grier’s Blaxploitation films and relaxer box ads but without the chemicals. I celebrate my hair in all its forms: the good, the bad, and the glory. However, this time, my coils needed some attention and restoration before my next visit.
Wash and Condition Process
I sectioned my hair into three random parts and sprayed it with hot water to activate the Olaplex No.3. I rubbed a quarter-sized amount of the product in my hair and used a wide tooth to distribute the bonding treatment evenly.
I saturated the treatment in my hair for 30 minutes, then hopped in the shower to rinse it off. Before shampooing with the Olaplex No. 4 and Lush’s Fairly Traded Honey cleanser, I combed my hair to avoid tangles. While soaking wet, I split my fro in half and massaged the Olaplex cleanser into my scalp while combing my ends to combat breakage. I rinsed the shampoo out of my head, then lathered another layer of both products for about five minutes.
Afterward, I parted my hair into four even sections and distributed the Olaplex No. 5 conditioner on each part while dousing it with warm water for more slip. I then conditioned my curls for 15 minutes before rinsing out the bonding hydrator.
I submerged the Design Essentials Bamboo & Silk HCO Leave-In Conditioner in my hair to strengthen my strands while soaking wet. Then, I used a microfiber towel to wipe off any access water. Before parting my hair into 16 random twists, I squeezed a quarter-size amount of the Olaplex No. 6 and brushed the leave-in creme on my curls. Lastly, I sprayed the Mizani Thermasmooth Anti-Humidity Spritz to lock in any moisture and protect my hair from further heat damage. I let my hair air dry for two hours. However, I ensured my curls were damp before the blow-drying process.
How I Style My Timeless Rollerset Look
I clipped my hair into one bun, then unraveled and detangled each twist using the Pattern Beauty detangling brush. I set the blow dryer on high heat at low speed for a quicker process while ensuring the heat was evenly distributed. I ran the tool four times throughout each twist until my hair was dry. I opted for a slightly pressed look since I dislike bone-straight tresses. To avoid a reverted fro, I wore my blow out for a day.
Before clipping up my tresses, I preheated the flat iron to 400 degrees (my hair can take heat.) Using a medium-width section, I took a fine tooth comb and followed with the straightener to pass through my strands twice.
Once the flat iron process was done, I used 20 small to large velcro rollers. I randomly took medium-sized sections and rolled my hair clockwise. After rolling my hair, I let it set overnight.
The Take Down
Since my type 4 hair is prone to breakage, I slowly removed the rollers. If one snags, I separate my strands with the tip of my fingers.
After each roller is out, I comb my hair in a “feathered motion” away from my face.
The ability to express creativity while maintaining healthy hair is a liberating part of one’s hair journey. Though I never colored my tresses, I learned a few gems through Verna Meachum’s hair journey.
Monique Rodriguez presents herself as a true Midwestern hair giant who transformed from being a medical professional to creating her empire, Mielle Organics. Though her background is in nursing, Rodriguez dreamt of being in the beauty industry. The Chicagoan describes her city as the “mecca of the beauty and hair industry.” Rodriguez reminisces about being raised in the city where Luster Products, SoftSheen Carson, and Johnson and Johnson products shifted the hair care market—igniting her passion to succeed in beauty. She confesses begging her mother to be featured in those hair campaigns where young girls would be plastered on relaxer boxes and billboards. Even though hair companies never featured Rodriguez, she embraced her natural beauty and became the face of her brand.
However, she doubted a lucrative career in haircare, hence her pursuit of science. The business owner credits her nursing background with developing the formulation behind Mielle Organics. She mixed holistic ingredients like avocado, honey, and essential oils in her kitchen. Rodriguez refers to herself as a “kitchen chemist” for her research in scalp stimulation. Later, she found a chemist to extract natural ingredients since the hair shaft repels food molecules. Rodriguez believes Mielle Organics’ products are noteworthy to consumers since her credibility in healthy hair compliments her dreams of building her enterprise with accurate results.
During Women’s History Month, Naturallycurly spoke with the self-made entrepreneur about her present and future endeavors.
Starting An Empire
NC: You created your company out of pain and purpose. Would you say Mielle Organics is your safety net?
Monique Rodriguez: God is my safety net, first and foremost. God has redirected me to that passion I had as a child. I always [ask] people, “If you go back to your childhood, what was that thing that you did effortlessly? That’s probably what you should be doing because that’s truly what God called you to be.” God put me on a path to discover my purpose and my passion.
Discovering that passion I had as a little girl, allowed me to utilize that platform for a bigger purpose. What I do is marketplace ministry. Yes, we sell amazing hair products. More importantly, we’re a faith-based organization. We’re bringing people to God’s kingdom. I look at Mielle as something bigger than hair products. We are mission-driven. I want to inspire people to identify their purpose and be their best version. Mielle allowed me to take my mind off of what I was going through with the loss of my son—it was bigger than what I can’t even imagine.
Image Source: @mielleorganics
NC: Social media helped you showcase your products when you first started. Tell me about your relationship with social media now. How did it shape your business?
Monique Rodriguez: I have a love-hate relationship with social media because I feel like it’s taken a turn. It was a positive place to share your experiences with like-minded people. I looked at it as a place to engage with people. I built this community of women who share the same passion for hair. We became this family of just sharing ideas and tips. Before I started the brand, I took my community on the journey with me. I would go to the manufacturer, think about products, [and] how I would design the packaging. I made everyone feel inclusive.
When I launched, they supported me because they felt like they’d been a part of the journey from the beginning. I thought at that time, it was great. We were able to continue to blossom. Our community dictated how we grew in retail because our community demanded that we have more shelf space and expand retailers. That was a great part of social media that I loved. My hate part is there’s a lot of negativity. It gives people a platform to say things they wouldn’t say without your presence. There are a lot of hurt people in this world, and social media gives them a voice. I know we live in a country where it’s freedom of speech, but it’s also hurting our youth.
NC: How does Mielle Organics stay authentic, especially to its audience? How do you stay authentic, especially in your brand and audience?
Monique Rodriguez: I stay authentic by just showing up. There’s no other way to do it. My community knows my character. They know a lot about me. There’s a way that you can maintain some privacy but be open and transparent with the community that you’re serving. I still respond to DMs. I try to respond when people comment on my photos. No matter what level I’m at, I’m not above.
We all bleed blood. We’re all equal. I always make people feel like you’re my best friend or sister. There’s no competition. I think people relate and connect with me because I’m the girl next door. I’m down-to-earth. That’s how you remain authentic. I feel like your character will always outweigh the negativity, haters, and criticism and silence all the noise
How To Move As A Businesswoman
NC: Aside from the scrutiny you faced behind selling to Procter & Gamble, what obstacles have you faced as a Black woman entrepreneur, especially in the beauty and hair space?
Monique Rodriguez: I would say one of the obstacles I faced as a black woman is a lack of access to capital, expertise, and mentorships. I would search outside of my culture to be inspired by other women entrepreneurs because I didn’t see anyone who looked like me. I’m adamant about making sure my voice is heard. I want to change the narrative and be an example [of how] little boys and girls can see possibilities. Kids can’t be what they don’t see. Instead of looking at things that are displayed in a negative aspect, let’s continue to show our kids something positive. So they can look at someone like me and say, “I don’t have to look outside. I had a Monique Rodriguez. I want to do what she did, and I want to do it even better.’
NC: You mentioned little boys and little girls. Your brand is named after your children. How has motherhood shaped you as a businesswoman?
Motherhood is everything. It changes the way you think, your drive, and your ambition. What I do is not for me— it’s for creating a legacy for the next generation and ensuring my kids don’t grow up the same way that I grew up and that my kids have the flexibility and the freedom to discover their passions.
It’s my job to nurture their gifts and talents and say, “Hey, do whatever you want to do. If you want to go to space, do that.”
The way I think about fulfilling your dreams, purpose, and visions— I encourage my kids to do just that. I probably wouldn’t have that same mindset if I hadn’t stepped out alone. To see what was on the other side of the process was by having faith.
NC: What are your favorite products that you invented and why?
That’s like asking me, “Who’s your favorite child? I love all the products. But the latest product innovation I love is our Rosemary Mint Scalp Scrub. You can’t have healthy hair if you don’t have a healthy scalp. This product is super innovative. It’s infused with biotin and essential oils to help scalp stimulation in the follicles and exfoliate the scalp. When you apply it, you get this squeaky clean feeling that feels amazing. When you rinse it out, it turns into a shampoo. So you don’t have to follow up and get exfoliating beads out of your hair. That’s my new favorite.
Collaborations With Idols
NC: You became an official partner with the WNBA, Howard’s swim team, and FAMU’s cheerleading squad. Why did you intersect Mielle Organics and women’s sports?
It was a huge, untapped market, especially for Black women. The stigma is Black women don’t exercise because we’re afraid we’re going to mess up our hair, which we paid a lot of money for. I feel women in sports didn’t have products that served them. They don’t have to worry about their hairstyle on the court.
They have products that will keep their hair healthy and looking good. Also, to show people they matter. Just because you’re in sports doesn’t mean you don’t have a voice and are not seen in beauty ads. We wanted to bring representation to that audience to show that these women are killing it on and off the court and that they’re beautiful. Mielle was the solution to help keep them beautified.
NC: You are collaborating with another Midwestern entrepreneur, Melissa Butler, CEO of The Lip Bar and Thread Beauty. How did that happen?
Image Source: @mielleorganics
I’ve known Melissa since we started trade shows ten years ago. When I first met her, she was wearing bright blue or orange lipstick. We bonded over the fact that we were two struggling entrepreneurs trying to build our companies together. We bonded over some of the challenges that we face as entrepreneurs. To know where we started, it only made sense to come together as two Black women to show collaboration over competition. We operate from a spirit of abundance. We can create history during Women’s History Month.
NC: Why did you choose these IT girls to represent your brand, from Megan Thee Stallion to Angel Reese and Saweetie?
I mean, number one, because they are IT girls. All of them have huge followings. They represent themselves well. Once you get to know their heart, they’re good people. We try to align our brand with people who are the same audience we’re trying to serve. They’re not afraid to rock their natural hair; they’re confident. They’re very bold.
They are doing amazing things in their industry despite the odds against them. Angel Reese is young, but her boldness and authority she commands on the court— I can only imagine what she’s going to be 20 years from now. She’s a beast because she’s well-respected on the court. She rocks her edges. They are always laid down, and people know her for this. Why not complement ourselves with someone who has an amazing reputation?
Future Endeavors
NC: Where do you see Mielle Organics in five years? How the brand is cementing itself in the natural hair space for long-term success?
I see us expanding into international markets, into new categories, not just on hair but also skin, and having the foresight to anticipate the needs of our consumers to remain ahead of the curve, innovative, and a solution-oriented brand. Yes, there’s competition, but no one’s going to outwork the brand.
NC: How did it feel being on the cover of Essence Magazine with your husband and business partner?
That cover was a dream come true. To be on the cover for my own haircare brand was like God exceeding my expectations and continuing to blow me away with the opportunities he has given me. It was super historic.
NC: Describe Mielle Organics’ innovation in four words
Our innovation is exciting, science-led, consumer-focused, and hot!
NC: What advice do you have for new Black women entrepreneurs in the haircare and beauty industry?
Remain true to who you are. Be authentic, passionate, and very disciplined because discipline will take you places that motivation can’t. You’re not going to wake up every day motivated, but you have a level of discipline to pursue your dreams. Fall in love with the process. Fall in love with the journey. Embrace it because it’s very fulfilling on the other side.
Rodriguez pushes boundaries in the hair care industry and strives for young women to follow their dreams. This naturalista crafts an empire for the next generation to pursue—making her a key leader in our Laying The Roots vertical.
Find out what other phenomenal woman was highlighted in our series.
Celebrity hairstylist and brand owner Felicia Leatherwood cemented herself as a curly hair expert through her long resume styling top celebrities like Jill Scott, Ava DuVernay, Lenny Kravitz, Teyonah Parris, and now Issa Rae. Aside from creating top-notch red carpet looks, Leatherwood designed her signature detangling brush following a pact of curly girls whose crowns appreciated the flexible but linear movement of the brush. She earned her spot as a top creator in the hair care industry.
Image Source: @gettyimages
Earlier, she spoke with NaturallyCurly, stating that the natural hair community motivates her intent in styling coily hair. She said her constructed dos are derived from nostalgic Black hair moments and ancient Africa. NaturallyCurly awarded Leatherwood’s highly recognized detangling hairbrush during the 2020 Best of Best Beauty Awards.
Since then, she gained over 123,000 followers stunning her consumers with her game-changing technology. During Women’s History Month, NaturallyCurly recognizes Leatherwood for her leadership and impact on the natural hair community.
Coming Up As A Celebrity Hairstylist
Image Source: @msayles
Leatherwood’s introduction to hair started as a young child. She treated hairstyling as a side hustle and turned it into a stepping tool as a top Hollywood hair expert. The Zoe Report says the LA native grew up with her hardworking father and frequently ill mother. Leatherwood’s escapism in her creativity turned into a lucrative career. Though she loved hair care, Leatherwood grew up when natural hair wasn’t celebrated.
She stepped out in faith and created beauty trends for the upcoming years. After leaving her corporate Warner Bros job, she pivoted to being a full-time natural hairstylist. The former executive channeled her natural beauty in a world where trends shifted into an “acceptable” look. During her 30s, Leatherwood unlocked her destiny by enrolling in beauty school. Though she had critics, she confidently stood tall for her creativity and passion for hair care.
During the early 2000s, Leatherwood met mega, neo-soul phenomenon Jill Scott. The Rnb singer and Leatherwood built a relationship with natural hair, and Scott’s audience paid attention to her voice and crisp tresses. Leatherwood credits Scott for transforming her career, gaining recognition from blogs, and noticing fans focused on her work.
Image Source: @mr_dadams
Leatherwood’s career soared when she became the lead stylist for the hit TV show Insecure. She and Issa Rae connected at the “Black Women in Hollywood” event. They had a telepathic connection on set. While Rae trusted in Leatherwood’s creativity, Leatherwood knew when or when not to converse with the star, said The Zoe Report. The hairstylist revealed she produced more than 300 hairstyles on set following the past seven seasons. Their bond led Leatherwood to style Rae’s hair for her intimate wedding.
Leatherwood’s Long-Term Haircare Tips For Maintaining Strong Natural Tresses
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Hair loss can be a touchy subject for women. Leatherwood spoke with NaturallyCurly and stated our crowns are the most vulnerable when wet—meaning our hair is prone to breakage during showering. She said hair shedding is normal, but hair loss is not. She advised those dealing with hair loss to pay attention to dietary conditions and consider more protein intake.
Leatherwood offers webinars for those with textured hair and encourages holistic approaches for great scalp health. She confessed to BET that she advises her A-List clients to drink water for healthy tresses regardless of their hair type. Leatherwood advocates for a consistent hair care regimen. She recommends following the routine for three months to a year to see results. Leatherwood said to repair any damage and create styles that last before the big chop.
Then, as the hair grows, trim the ends every 3-4 months to retain their length. Type 3-4a curlies should deep condition the hair every two weeks to nourish the strands and reverse any damage. Lastly, Leatherwood believes switching up hairstyles aids in healthy hair—only if the hair is properly treated. Type 3 hair should keep protective styles in for two months, but for coily textures, she believes keeping styles in for 4-6 weeks since the texture is prone to dryness and breakage.
How Hair Bristles Created A Journey/Step in Innovating The Hair Care Industry
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Leatherwood uses natural hair as a vessel to combat stereotypical misconceptions of it being “difficult” to maintain. As a 4C natural, she told NaturallyCurly that styling coily hair with improper tools made it difficult to expose their scalp and “get air for exfoliation.” She challenged naturalistas to learn their texture without overconsuming “new launches” and trendy products, The Zoe Reports confirms. Leatherwood credits her dedication to studying natural hair as a stepping stool to her business.
The hair expert created “Brush With The Best” detangling brush during a time when hair tools negated textured hair. The brush’s form is built with flexible bristles and is only “bonded on three sides” allowing all hair types to glide through without any shags or rips. After the brush’s success, Leatherwood invented Texture Tools—a line of flaxseed heated bonnets used as a deep conditioning agent. The cap is microwaveable and designed as a sealant for moisturizing hair. The hair expert continues to expand her enterprise, offering microfiber towels and shower tools—a step in reinvigorating her brand.
Leatherwood continues her journey as a hair giant in the industry. Her innovation through media and blank encourages young entrepreneurs to strive for respect and greatness throughout the hair care community. CURLDAZE’s founder, Robyn Atwater is another hair CEO who found her niche through the media and natural hair.
Though intrigued with pharmaceuticals, Erica Douglas found her niche in cosmetic studies through her mother. Douglas felt ostracized in her skin before the chemical engineering graduate changed her career path. The former Organic Root Stimulator professional describes how her natural hair wasn’t normalized due to societal beauty standards. She felt compelled to straighten her coils since natural hair products were scarce. However, Douglas took a leap of faith and became “the solution to her problems.”
Douglas created a manufacturing company, mSeed Group, in 2014 when Black beauty creators mixed products in their kitchens. Most manufacturers negated small business owners for their lack of capital. She built a safe space and purpose for haircare brands to expand their businesses.
“The people who deserve to be on the shelves are the people who started it and the barriers of entry were just too high for them to scale the brand,” Douglas says. “Our concept was let’s do small batch manufacturing for these up-and-coming brands with the hope and prayer some of them are going to pop off and become great brands. Sure enough, we’ve probably worked with almost every brand— a good portion of these natural brands in the textured hair space.”
In the next five years, Douglas wants to expand her knowledge in colored cosmetics, powdered technology, and bestow opportunities to “untapped talent.” Douglas acknowledges her work’s impact on today’s hair care brands, especially in her community. Douglas’ ability to intersect analytics and creativity crafted a cosmetic expert whose lab experience embarked on her journey of enhancing natural hair products.
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Legacy Brands That Innovated Clean Ingredients
Image Source: @orshaircare
From Madam C.J. Walker to the Luster family, these monumental giants dominated the hair care industry. Since then, newer brands have challenged legacy competitors by using cleaner and more sustainable ingredients. Douglas says older products relied heavily on petrolatums and mainly “grease” to nurture multicultural textured hair. Douglas says the older ingredients weren’t harmful, but the technology behind extracting and absorbing products in the follicles has evolved. She noted the “older regime” gravitated to a straighter look, but naturalistas shifted to embracing our coils. She witnessed the “green movement” working at ORS—claiming Gary Garner pioneered natural ingredients. He mixed “hair mayo and carrot oil” in his line, revolutionizing the organic market in haircare.
“When you have these huge companies that have built successful brands on one training of thought and then now they’re trying to do this shift, it’s just very hard to do that overnight.,” she said. “They kind of came at the back end of this natural hair movement, and were playing catch up.”
Douglas applauds Pantene for pushing originality in their formula. She recognizes a huge conglomerate backs the brand; however, she loves that they can sell quality products at a higher volume while remaining cost-effective. She appreciates Pantene’s diversity, celebrating curly hair, and highlighting its “Miracle Rescue Series” on her Instagram.
Image Source: sisterscientist
“I’m enamored with their innovation and how they create products. It keeps me like ‘ooh what’s all doing over there?’
Why Silicones And Sulfates Are Safe In Moderation
There is a negative stigma amongst silicones. Douglas objects to the silicone hate train claming the chemical protects the hair shaft against heat. She says hair breakage derives from “heat penetrating too fast,” and silicone-based products allow heat to penetrate the hair but seal the strands against damage. Douglas agrees that sulfates cause dry, dehydrated hair, but mixing secondary surfactants and other conditioning chemicals aids in a healthier and nourished scalp. Since these chemicals created a frenzy in the natural hair community, clients force chemists to formulate a new generic makeup for their products. However, scientists have dismantled the myths behind these ingredients in the hope of educating curlies worldwide.
“There’s no scientific conclusions that say this is dangerous [and] don’t put it in products,” she says.
Though Douglas disagrees with discounting these additives, she pleases her clients with their brand’s needs—challenging her as a better chemist and reformulator.
“Every ingredient is put on the mean girl list. I’m like, ‘Ah, I got to find something else,’ but that’s where true innovation comes from and I don’t run from it,” she explains.
The Innovation Behind The Newest Haircare Heirs
Image Source: @camilleaaustin
Though ORS created the clean, natural ingredient wave, the family-owned company sold relaxers, representing an underlining depiction between moving forward in the hair community and conforming to specific standards. Brands like Mielle Organics, Shea Moisture, and Briogeo repurposed the natural hair movement with simple and sustainable products. Douglas says newer brands garnered a closeness to their consumers due to social media. She adds customers trusted nurse and Mielle Organics founder, Monique Rodriguez as she educated customers on the healthy benefits of her brand—solidifying her stance in the curly hair community. Since then, newer curly brands popularized a certain “standard” to challenge boardrooms by eliminating toxic chemicals in their product list. Douglas agrees these cleaner brands set the trend for mainstream hair care.
“When you already have the infrastructure established and one foot in social media and one foot in building a product-based company, you know how to innovate extremely fast,” she says. “That has been their advantage in this whole space.”
Is There A Myth Behind Hair Growth Oils?
Image Source: @kreyolessence
Oiling the scalp is part of the curly girl’s ritual. Mainly, the urban practice started from our elders. Popular ethnic haircare brands like Kreyol Essence, Sunny Isle, and Mielle Organics sell mixtures of their essential oils—promising luscious, long tresses. However, does this tradition grant hair growth, or is it a ploy for marketing purposes? Though Douglas says there is no scientific evidence that they strictly stimulate hair growth, essential oils contain anti-fungal properties that encourage a “healthy environment” for hair to grow. She adds hair doesn’t grow at an accelerated rate after using hair growth oils but it visibility looks better and thicker.
Maintaining A Lasting Business Relationship As A New Brand
To achieve a successful business when launching new products, Douglas advises small beauty brands to consider their core consumer group, monitor cash flow to buy more inventory and push innovation before perfectionism. Douglas recognizes resources are scarce for Black women owners and “understanding financial literacy” can positively impact beauty brands. Check out these successful indie brands who maximized their time and effort specializing in curly hair extensions.
It’s nothing like the smell of edge control, oil sheen, and witnessing Marcel irons inches away from burning your ear. The Black girl’s salon experience remains a nostalgic moment as well as the creatives who perfect our strands. These Black beauticians share their communal pursuits and influences while dominating the hair care industry.
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The Everlasting Journey
Image Source: @byjustinrevenge
Celebrity hairstylist Justin Turner’s interest in hair started as a toddler. The 24-year-old misunderstood the importance of haircare until he reached his teens. He tried a variety of styles on his friend (who became his first client) and got “better and better.” Turner garnered a mass social media following for his bodacious, layered blowouts and pin curls. The “Justin’s Revenge” salon owner found his niche in perfecting silky, natural tresses, and extensions. Turner’s blending techniques and adoration for healthy hair skyrocketed his business. Turner says his admirers mistook his extensions for natural hair. The stylist emphasizes healthy hair is the key to any style.
“I take my time to make sure that I’m doing my best to keep my clients hair healthy and protected,” he confesses.
Image Source: @kekekudajuyce
Kiara Elery started doing hair in her late teens after a failed attempt to become a respiratory therapist. Elery grew up in the hair industry—raised by a bloodline of cosmetologists and found her willfulness in her aunt, Laura Bedenfield. Elery hesitated to transition into the family business but found her passion in serving women.
Image Source: @toniannmalcolmhair
Toni-Ann Malcolm insists she’s more than a beautician; she’s a creative. The 25-year-old editorial hair expert despised hairdressers who failed at perfecting her tresses. Malcolm negated being a stereotypical hairstylist until she found editorial styles liberating. Now, the artist designs sculpted hair looks for Netflix, Nike, Mac Cosmetics, Harpers Bazaar, and Supreme while selling raw bundles and educating prospective cosmetologists. “Hair, to me, is a unique tool. It plays a huge part in many lives. It is not just something decorative but a meaningful source,” she says.
Malcolm uses her clients as canvases, giving her more “creative freedom” to “display her masterpieces.” The U.K. native relishes in hair art and makes her prototypes shine through the camera. She uses historical storytelling to paint a picture through the lens of hair.
Image Source: @enhancedbybritt
For seven years, self-proclaimed Broward hairstylist Brittney Thompson divulged in the cosmetic space as a makeup artist. Shortly after, Thompson expanded her knowledge in the beauty industry by becoming a licensed esthetician. Following the pandemic, Thompson graduated from Paul Mitchell and opened her suite two years ago. Thompson’s husband supported her during her revamp, signifying Black love as a testament to accomplishing one’s goals. Though Thompson fell out of love with makeup, she felt South Floridians lacked natural hairstylists.
“I love everything about hair care and natural hair plus there isn’t a lot of us in the South Florida area. Contrary to popular belief, natural hair is very versatile,” she says.
Image Source: @pincurlsandpaint
Hairstory’s stylist, Jennifer Covington-Bowers, did not have a linear relationship with the hair industry. Originally, she was interested in fashion but lacked support from her family. She enrolled in law school, but motherhood interrupted her studies, and the hair magnate left to focus on beauty school. Like Malcolm, Covington-Bowers is an editorial hairstylist who started as a colorist. She “craved” more of an avant-garde career path since she loved high fashion. The runway hair connoisseur assisted other hairstylists by impacting her profession.
Image Source: @ceo_nurse_co
Like her counterparts, Inecia Sneed started doing hair as a teenager. She became immersed in beauty when she spent quality time at the salon getting her hair done. The “Changin Faces” salon owner practiced roller sets on her grandmother, then quickly perfected her craft when she enrolled in the Dudley Beauty College and received her cosmetology license, which hatched an entrepreneur reigning the Chicago beauty scene for over two decades. Sneed explains her craftiness is coveted by God. She decorates unique hairdos for women daily.
Muses and Inspirations
Image Source: @kekekudajuyce
Vidal Sassoon’s technique impacted Elery’s urge to perfect a master cut. She watched his styling tapes while mimicking his skillfulness. Elery prides the matriarchs and patriarchs in her family for inspiring her to become a hairstylist. Her mother showcased her talent in hair styling by persuading a young Elery to follow in her footsteps. Elery commends her aunt, Bedenfield, for pouring her life into her craft. “We’ve been working together for the last 16-17 years. We have a bond that’s so breakable. We were in the ropes and trenches together. We’re more like sisters,” she says.
The 70s were a pivotal and visionary moment for Black hair, for which Turner drew inspiration from his brand. Also, Turner prides himself as a Beyonce fan. He treasures the megastar and mogul. The 70s were a pivotal and visionary moment for Black hair, for which Turner drew inspiration from his brand. Also, Turner prides himself as a Beyonce fan. He treasures the megastar and mogul for her artistry and diligence. “That sounds cliche to some, but she inspires me to work hard with whatever I put out into the world— to keep learning, growing, and teaching,” he says.
Image Source: @enhancedbybritt
Thompson applauds actress, writer, and producer Issa Rae, for staying authentic and modeling her natural hairstyles. Also, she adores global hairstylist Pekela Riley for her “artistic” catalog centering on natural hair and texturized extensions.
Malcolm connects with major game-changers in the hair industry. She cherishes hairstylist and ID magazine’s senior beauty editor, Jawara Wauchope. “We think the same, I think & I love that. I hope to work with him & assist,” Malcolm says after complimenting his craft.
Sneed became a student in the hair industry from her friend Angie Middleton. She gave tips on monetizing her work and increasing notoriety in the salon business. Despite being a veteran in the hair industry, Sneed supports younger social media hair artists like Razor Chic, Tokyo Stylez, and Arrogant Tae—who inspired her to partake in hair trends. She took a class with Tokyo Stylez (real name) to become more business savvy.
Unique Style Techniques
Image Source: @kekekudajuyce
Elery’s “biggest flex” is coloring natural hair with “dimensional color.” Elery enriches the beauties in her chair by tailoring their coifs with structure and precision. She analyzes her client’s head shape and skin complexion to decipher if the style compliments their vibe. She applauds Farouk System’s haircare lines for its innovative products.
Like Elery, Turner considers his client’s face shape when cutting precise layers. He compliments his precise “layer placement” as unique and “individualized” to every customer.
Image Source:@renellaice
Malcolm uses historical storytelling to paint a picture through the lens of hair.
“It’s like a Van Gogh painting—people might see something else but the artist created that piece based [on] a pivotal point in his career.
Image Source: @changinfacesbeautybar
Sneed advocates for shorter hairstyles and has been rocking them since grade school. She received compliments from strangers, which led her to tackle pixie cuts. “People always wanted to look like me. ‘Do my hair like yours.’ So I’m like, okay, let me try to do their hair like mine—which would always wind up being a short haircut,” she says.
Life-Changing Hair Moments
Every year, Elery teaches cosmetology at Mooseheart Academy—a school designed for underprivileged children. Even though Elery feels like an amateurish mentor, she inspires young people to excel in the hair business.
Image Source: @byjustinrevenge
Turner’s cutting skills were derived from Chicago stylist, Chris Curse. The mentor and muse, Curse shaped Turner’s approach to snipping Black women’s natural coils without altering their density and length—while giving his clients a chic and effortless layered do.
Image Source: @miguelherreraphoto
Covington-Bowers dreamt of working in Couture Fashion Week in Paris. Though she didn’t have traction, she applied to agencies hoping they would highlight her work. To her dismay, the hair prophetess was released from the shows on the flight to Paris. When she arrived, she got an email inviting her to assist in the Valentino Couture show with Guido Palau as the lead stylist.
“It was the year that the legendary MUA Pat McGrath did the petal eyelashes, and it was magical,” she says.
Like her fellow hair educators above, Malcolm found a friend who changed her idea to pursue her dreams. Her colleague, Shemiah Gold, persuaded Malcolm to assist her on set. Since Malcolm treated hairstyling as a side job she was reluctant to complete the job, but she “never looked back.” Malcolm says Gold holds a special place in her heart.
The Next Big Plan
In the next five years, Elery hopes to open a sister property to Simply Amazin Hair Creations. She wants to expand the family business in her name while “executing” haircut styles.
Image Source: @byjustinrevenge
Turner’s community is the women whom he services in his chair. His next move is providing his clientele with a hair accessory line named ENGE. The innovation behind Turner’s new brand offers hair accessories that “elevate hairstyles.” “I want accessories that are as common as a go-to handbag,” he says.
Image Source: @toniannmalcolmhair
Instead of reaching celebrity status, Malcolm manifests a community of junior stylists fascinated with hair. The hair phenomenon wishes to reach prospects globally. Also, Malcolm says she desires an extension line, mentorship program, ebooks, and virtual classes.
Sneed serves her people in various forms. She’s been a licensed practical nurse for under a decade, hoping to run a med spa in a few years. She wants to duplicate her beauty experience for aesthetical and clerical purposes.
The Legends’ Legacies
Sneed takes pride in feeling loved for her services. While Turner’s legacy intersects versatility, attentiveness, and professionalism, Elery entails being the best “version” of herself while beautifying women. “I want women to continue to love themselves. Putting smiles on people’s faces makes me feel really good,” she says. Covington-Bowers strives to impact future stylists with determination, tenacity, and the ability to quiet negative opinions on hair artistry.
Image Source: @barbaradonninelli
“I want to keep living my dreams, not my fears, and continue going into creative spaces that I didn’t think it was possible to for me to go,” she says. These hair giants heightened their status through their expertise in the hair care sector. Since Lover’s Day is approaching, show these sweet and sensual updos to your beautician for date night or a fun girl’s outing.
Black people’s influence has threatened mainstream America despite starting cultural trends, especially in hair care. Companies jeopardized Black women’s jobs and careers by discriminating against them due to their natural hair. Dove and Black women legislators created The Crown Act to dismantle ostracism and its consequences against Black hair. The enacting law “prohibits race-based hair discrimination,” which includes “locs, twists, braids, and bantu knots.”
There was a time when conglomerates prohibited Black people from using their products. Now, the Black dollar remains a number one marketing strategy for lifestyle brands. Black hair care entrepreneurs innovated inclusive products for textured hair. Brands like Carol’s Daughter, Brigeo, and Mielle Organics, shaped superstars turned to hair experts, including Taraji P. Henson, Tracee Ellis Ross, and reportedly Beyonce (after she speculated on Instagram) formulated ingredients that nourish afro-textured tresses. Curly girls’ pockets may have suffered after buying their “fan favorites,” but many historic brands paved the way before social media, influencers, and virality. These historic Black innovators created a “table” for Black hair care when brands neglected our coils and culture.
Madam C.J Walker
Image Source: Getty
Madam C.J Walker became the pioneer for Black haircare during the Harlem Renaissance. Born Sarah Breedlove, Walker’s success was attributed to her haircare products, making her the first Black woman and a “self-made millionaire woman,” as revealed by Guinness World Records. Walker evolved from a sharecropper’s daughter to an iconic public figure. During a time when Black hair was deemed as unruly, Walker created “Madam C.J. Walker’s Wonderful Hair Grower,” a treatment conditioning Black hair with household products like petroleum jelly, coconut oil, beeswax, and presumably sulfur—an active ingredient to boost hair growth.
Image Source: @madambymcjw
Walker’s great-great-granddaughter, A’Leila Bundles, applauds Walker’s triumphs as the sole historian for her empire. So much so, Sundial’s CEO, Cara Sabin, and Bundles rebuilt her ancestor’s hair care by naming it “Madam by Madam C.J. Walker,” in honor of Walker’s legacy. The new beauty line’s ingredients contain shea butter, castor oil, lavender, and pomegranate seed oil—essential products rooted in hair growth. Walker’s new line intersects Black excellence history with a “Gen Z” approach.
Dr. Willie Lee Morrow
Image Source: @sdmonitornews
Most curly girls know the final step to a voluminous afro is the afro pick. The afro pick dates back to Ancient Africa, where northern African women used picks to accessorize. In the 70s, Black people shifted their political stance in America while celebrating Black culture. The natural fro and the pick became pivotal in Black history thanks to its inventor, Dr. Willie Lee Morrow. The barber migrated to San Diego for communal efforts and “provide resources for his people,” Vibe Magazine reports. Morrow repurposed the Afro-pick while cutting hair to generate wealth for his people.
Image Source: Getty
The hairstylist invested in his own media company and designed combs while formulating chemicals to turn coily hair curly. The Washington Post credited Morrow as the originator of the “The California Curl”—before Jheri Redding altered the idea and created, “The Jheri Curl.” Though Redding “exploited” his idea Morrow invented a tenacious effort to maximize his Black empire.
Fred Luster Sr.
Fred Luster Sr. generated an empire stocked at the local beauty supply. The barber turned global businessman created The S-Curl texturizers, Smooth Touch Relaxers, and the nostalgic Pink Hair Oil Moisturizer. The oil became a staple in the Black household. Since relaxers were linked to cancer, the natural hair movement resurfaced—celebrating Black hair and its glory.
Image Source: @lusterspink
Hair care retailers replaced the pink oil moisturizer when with clean, environmental-focused products. Luster’s original formula contained mineral oil, parabens, a distinct bubble-gum fragrance, and an oily residue, which caused controversy in the curly girl community. Since then, the family-owned company has reformulated the cult favorite into a silicone-free option for naturals who are conscious about their scalps.
Edward G. and Retiaan Gardner
Chicago’s hair royalty, Retiann, and Edward G. Gardner represent how Black love influences activism and hair care. After delivering products out of his trunk, the Gardners started their company Soft Sheen Products in the mid-1960s, Ebony Magazine reported. Soft Sheen Products’ gained notoriety for their Care-Free Curl brand— a line of leave-in moisturizers packed with protein and glycerin.
Image Source: @softsheencarson_pro
The Gardners impacted Chicago households by employing nearly 900 people during its reign. Also, they made charitable donations to their Southside Community after opening the Regal Theater. Edward sold their multi-dollar company to L’Oreal Paris in the late 1990s, making his children run “day-to-day operations,” though his son, Gary Gardner, separated from the family’s business and produced his hair care brand, ORS Hair Care.
Cara Sabin
Though Shea Moisture’s legacy just started, its impact over the past decades remains supreme. There is no doubt Shea Moisture became almost every curly blogger’s best friend. Sundial’s reign became a pivotal moment in the new age of Black haircare for Zillenials that’s social media driven. Founders Richelieu and Mary Dennis (the mother and son duo) sold their beloved company to Unilever, according to Forbes.
Images Source: @sheamoisture
Shea butter, a popular West African essential oil that soothes the scalp and skin with its healing properties became Sundial’s vital ingredient. The Jamaican Black Castor line became a favorite, especially for those with limp, dull coils. Cara Sabin became Shea Moisture’s CEO in 2019, two years after Unilever acquired the brand. Now, the powerhouse operates Nubian Heritage, Nyakio, and Madam C.J. Walker while operating in West Africa to source “raw ingredients” and bridge the wealth gap for Black women. Sabrin continues to reshape beauty standards by investing in small-owed brands.
Newer hair care creators mirrored past innovators to restore moisture and growth. Check out the shelf life of these highly recommended brands that will leave your strands fresh and hydrated.
With trends like Cottage Core, Quiet Luxury, and Mob Wife Winter, TikTok influenced many women to cosplay nostalgic events relative to their history or the images seen in pop culture. With a costume or any outfit, hair design is more than an accessory—it’s considered a crown, especially for Black women. Period piece stories like “ Queen Charlotte: A Bridgerton Story, Gilded Age, and Black Cake” center Black women in “higher society” despite their adversities. These shows depicted Black women wearing their natural coils in a quaint and elite manner—which transformed into high fashion and everyday life.
Image Source: @hairbysarahsango
Editorial hairstylist Sarah Sango creates sculptural afro-textured hair on and off the camera. Like many young Black girls, Sango struggled to find the right products for her mane. Before she produced Lush Cosmetics’ textured, natural haircare line, the U.K. native worked in an elite Black salon while braiding her younger cousin’s hair. Raised in a West African and European household, Sango’s curly hair routine challenged her to become an Afro hair enthusiast. Sango applauds her Black elders for introducing her to essential ingredients like shea butter and aloe vera gel to moisturize her curly hair. Even though her mother helped her embrace her curls, Sango experienced “microaggressions” within her mixed-race family.
Image Source: @scotttrindle
To break the curse, Sango wanted to break barriers in the fashion industry as she witnessed Black models neglected during shoots. After 23 years, Sango continues to promote inclusivity and diversity while assisting stellar fashion campaigns like Vogue, Balmain, and Bottega Veneta. With her expertise in multidimensional hair design, Sango’s creativity shines through constructing natural hair. Sango gives Naturally Curly tips on redefining nostalgic looks.
Finger Waves
Image Source: @twinsunisexsalont1
Black entertainers like Josephine Baker revolutionized short hair with her sleek pixie cut. The hairdo became a popular and liberating hairstyle for women looking to rock short hair. Sango suggests using a hard gel and spraying the hair with Got 2b glue for a “solid set.” She recommends cleansing the hair to remove product buildup and maintain a healthy scalp. SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Shampoo clarifies the hair while promoting moisture.
Feathered Wrap
Image Source: @transmalcomx
From Jackée Harris in 227 to Sanaa Lathan in Love and Basketball, the feathered wrap is a timeless hairdo dating back to the late 70s. The silk press is a reinvention of the voluminous style, without harsh chemicals. However, Sango is an advocate of Afro-textured hair and believes Black hair has been conditioned to “conform to society’s expectations.” With this look, she recommends not pressing the hair but stretching it to showcase its natural texture and dimension. Add velcro rollers or rods to give the hair a soft and volumizing look.
Pin Curls
Image Source: @fabellousbeautylounge
The Harlem Renaissance popularized this elegant ensemble. Now, the vintage hairstyle exuberates elegance and beauty. Pin curls require heat. Sango suggests roller setting the hair and spraying heat protectant before using a blow dryer and curling iron. For a more defined look without heat potential damage, insert Curformers to minimize tension in the hair.
Braided Buns
Image Source: @Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Over 30 years ago, the 90s solidified its stance on iconic braids. From Brandy to Sade, Black girls celebrated these role models by repurposing their version of long braided plaits. Braided buns are sophisticated with an edge. Sango is an advocate for length and a slick back bun. She suggests not to “hold back” when adding hair extensions. For a sleek look, slick the edges with Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Edge Gel.
Classic Pinned Coif
Image Source: Getty
Whether the hair is coily, blown out, or draped with locs, a simple, effortless pinned updo screams elegance and timelessness. Sango believes “less is more,” especially for this style. She recommends structuring the hair with bobby pins while keeping its “natural shape.” Accessorize the updo with barrettes or clips for a romantic night out or special occasion.
Like Sango, many Black women experiment on their hair at a young age. Also, using clean products protects a child’s growing hair. For educational purposes, check out ways parents can style their child’s hair in a creative but timely manner.
During the colder months, many curly girls rush to the salon to achieve a luxurious silk press since pressed hair behaves in the winter. However, natural hairstylists forget the importance of keeping silk presses non-damaged and fresh.
What Is A Silk Press?
A silk press is a chemical-free, pressed hairstyle dedicated to those with curly and coily hair. The process entails a shampoo and conditioning treatment, followed by blowing out and then flat-ironing the hair. Depending on the stylist, Black women leave the salon chair with clean, sleek tresses.
Image Source: @photoartclickclick4u
Simply Amazin Hair Creations’ salon owner, Laura Bedenfield, is an 18-year veteran hairstylist whose dedication to hair started with the matriarchs & patriarchs in her family. Bedenfield’s grandparents, George Owens Sr. and Elsie Owens, encouraged her (and her siblings) that studying hair will always be a consistent, universal career. She educates her clients that healthy hair is the foundation of any hairstyle and avoids unsupportive beauticians who refuse to maintain the “integrity of hair.” Now, Bedenfield gives NaturallyCurly tips on combatting dry silk presses during winter.
Pre-Treat Hair
Black hair is prone to breakage, especially for those living in frigid weather. Using a bonding or protein-based pre-treatment results in strong, silky hair. Bedenfield recommends Olaplex No. 3 bonding treatment for salon and at-home haircare.
Steam Hair While Deep Conditioning
While sitting under a hooded dryer might feel tedious, conditioning the hair ensures the silk press is everlasting and smooth. Bedenfield consults with clients to ensure a proper deep conditioning treatment based on their hair’s needs. She encourages steaming the hair allows moisture to “promote softness and make sure the hair stays strong.” Clients with heat and color-damaged hair are strongly encouraged to receive biweekly conditioning treatments. Camille Rose Naturals Coconut Water Penetrating Hair Treatment is an affordable deep conditioner that hydrates thirsty hair. Also, she advises using argan oil as a hot oil treatment while steaming the hair.
Use A Light Leave in Conditioner
Leave-in conditioners are vital during these colder months. Leave-in stylers seal the moisture in the hair while protecting it against heat. Refrain from using cream-based leave-in conditioners since they cause product build-up and oily hair. Mizani’s 25 Miracle Milk Leave-In Treatment combats dryness while nourishing the strands with its pristine ingredients, a product Bedenfield highlights.
Abstain From Heavy Oils, Use Light Serums
Using humectants seals coils, adds shine, and avoids hair swelling, but heavy oils result in limp, pressed strands. Add a lightweight serum to damp or blow-dried hair to obtain bouncy, luscious hair. Chi’s Silk Infusion is a popular leave-in serum that coats the hair, leaving it soft and polished. Bedenfield applauds this serum for its oil-free formula and protein-rich benefits.
Use Heat Protectants And Avoid Overusing The Flat Iron
Silk presses can be costly, especially during the holiday season, so it’s important to refrain from over-processing the hair. Constant flat-ironing ends in a “thinner, curl pattern.” Bedenfield recommends a dab of Dudley’s Creme Press Oils to prevent hair from reverting back to curly.
Maintain Consistent Trims
Image Source: @quitaiswhattheycallme
As a natural who adores a sleek style, nothing beats a feathered, freshly-trimmed silk press. Not only do regular trims give a sharp, aesthetically pleasing look, it aids in afro-textured hair. Black hair can grow rapidly, but flat-ironing hair with dead ends prompts further damage. Remember, health is better than length. Also, seek professionals when getting trims to prevent frayed ends and encourage bouncy, full hair.
Use Wide Tooth Combs To Avoid Excess Shedding
The harsh winter chills can make the hair fragile. Using hard, detangling brushes can potentially break off the hair stands. Comb coils after deep conditioning, blowing out the hair and wrapping it at night. Wide tooth combs detangle the hair evenly while limiting breakage and brittle ends. NaturallyCurly sells an array of combs, including their signature wide tooth shower comb.
Seal Hair For Longevity
Though afro-textured hair needs moisture, hot showers or sweaty workouts revert silk presses to its natural state. Before a shower, wrap the hair clockwise with a satin scarf so the silk press can maintain its shape. Bedenfield recommends locking the scarf with a terrycloth or cotton headband before showering or exercising for extra security.
Use a Dry Shampoo To Maintain A Cleaner Scalp
Silk presses can last for a few weeks. However, dirt and product buildup makes the hair shapeless and stiff. Apply dry shampoo to refresh the scalp while delaying wash day. Products like Unite 7 Seconds dry shampoo absorb excess oils, giving the hair more body and shape.
Bedenfield’s goal is to promote healthy-hair journeys for all coilies. The main objective is to ensure a luminous, strong mane is moisturized. Check out these products to maintain hydrated hair.
Artists like Solange, Kelela, and Willow Smith created headlines rocking abstract braids. Even though these women made hieroglyphic cornrows popular, they date back to ancient Africa, where Black women created freestyle braids as a fashion statement and as archival art pieces for hairstylists to have a free range of creativity.
Image Source: Ryuan Johnson
Chicago native Ryuan Johnson learned at six years old that braids were monumental to taking care of Black hair. The 23-year-old championed her beautician grandmother for expressing her imagination through hair. Growing up in Garfield Park, located on the city’s westside, Johnson never envisioned being an editorial hairstylist, designing plaits for haircare brands, and being featured in magazines. However, she applauds her “natural talent.” Johnson’s legacy ensures a safe space for women whose creativity outshines their ability to conform to any environment.
NaturallyCurly had a chat with Johnson to discuss this electrifying protective style.
How does your Chicago upbringing influence your braiding techniques?
Going to inner city schools, girls would come with design braids. In my family, colored braids were embraced. Chicago shaped the way I braid because I feel free to be creative. I grew up in a big city with different people who are experimental with hair.
What makes your brand, Sexy Scalps, fresh and innovative?
Image source: @sexyscalps
I want to challenge the idea of what normal hair is supposed to be, whether that’s sculpting or accessorizing. I love to take random things around my house, dice, lighters, and computer keys, and put them in the hair. The way I freestyle braids is fresher because it’s contemporary—not pre-planned. Sexy Scalps is this take on African traditional braiding through a modern, artistic, African American, Gen Z lens.
Abstract braids aren’t super trendy, but they are not exactly new. Since cornrows impacted Black culture, where do you find inspiration?
Image source: @sexyscalps
I feel inspired by nature. I take inspiration from my ancestors. While trying to make this my own, I’m inspired by braiders around the U.S. because everyone’s style is different. I’m inspired by the person’s hair I’m doing. Some want to feel neat and structured. Some are creative and free. They’re like, “I want to look crazy! I want to look like I’m walking at the Met Gala.” I’m, like, say less.
What makes abstract braids an effective protective style?
Image source: @sexyscalps
Weaving protects coiled hair. I take steps oiling the scalp, using heat protectants, not braiding too tight and using products to help maintain growth and durability during the winter.
What are your favorite products to use on clients?
I love Shea Moisture. I like Shine N Jam. Shine N Jam just partnered with Stasha Harris. They collaborated with her because she made Magic Fingers specifically for braiders. Annette Roche makes this rosemary retwist oil that I use religiously to oil the scalp.
What products from Shea Moisture do you gravitate towards?
If I’m going to be doing a natural hairstyle, I liked their Curl Enhancing Smoothie and Coconut & Hibiscus Freeze-Free Curl Mousse.
How was your experience connecting with Ravyn Lenae and braiding her hair for her tour?
Image Source: @iakamin
I connected with Ravyn Lenae because her music and work have always inspired me. I love how she has this theme of red hair and experimenting with braids. One day, I commented under her Instagram picture, “I would love to do your hair for your tour.” Weeks later, her manager hit me up. I literally screamed.
Image Source: @iakamin
The hairpiece I made for her was one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever created. It took work, determination, and passion. I spent two days sculpting hair with wire. I had prototypes and sketches and took inspiration from her album, “Hypnos.” A Black medusa inspired the hairpiece I made. The hairpiece had a spiral in the middle to hypnotize the audience. She’s sweet. She cares about her family. She’s not Hollywood. You know, it feels like I’m working for a cousin.
Your work was featured in Vogue after doing Sky Jetta’s hair. How did you feel about that experience?
To have my work featured in Vogue was amazing because it showed me there are people who are interested in sculptural hair. I didn’t understand the title, editorial hairstylist. I was creating these pieces in my room because they looked cool. For Vogue to see that, I realized I was on the right path, and it opened up doors for my creativity.
Image Source: @thedenisestephanie
Sky Jetta said, “I’m gonna be in New York for AFROPUNK. I want some crazy hair. Do whatever you want.” I went out there, had fun, and experimented. The photographer liked how she looked, and that’s how we did it.
What upcoming projects are you excited about for the new year?
Image source: @sexyscalps
I just did a campaign with SheaMoisture in December. I have a project coming out in March focused on essential workers called The Black Avant-Garde. Black women who work at department stores, Chicago Authority Transit workers, construction workers— I want to give them avant-garde hair. I want to [photograph] them at work to represent how fluid we are with our hair on a dramatic level. Aesthetically, I think it’d be cool.
Johnson supports Black women and their entrepreneurial enterprises. She mentions avidly using Black-owned haircare products where she nourishes afro-textured hair. Even though Johnson accessorizes her clients’ braids, she ensures each strand is moisturized. Check out these brands that are suitable to prep the hair before styling.
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