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How to Treat Your Sun Damaged Hair
Photo Courtesy of Keshia Langevillier

As we transition from summer into fall, it is very important that we take care of our hair with the same enthusiasm as we do about extending our fall wardrobe. Healthy, well kept hair is always in style, and the most important accessory that everyone should attain as the weather goes from hot to cold.

Why Treat Sun Damaged Hair?

There are so many different reasons why curly hair care is essential for sun damaged hair. Keep in mind that hair can get sun damaged year round. No matter what the temperature is outside, the sun will still be shining bright. A damaged hair treatment should always be part of your curly hair care regimen.

It’s important to treat sun damaged hair on a daily basis to keep your hair follicles and scalp healthy. Treating sun damaged hair will prevent breakage, uneven hair growth and improve the overall health of your beloved tresses.

It is no secret that if you have curly hair, your curly hair care regimen needs to have added moisture in it, at least in comparison to how much moisture those with straighter strands need. Curly hair tends to dry out much quicker and easier than other hair types, due to the shape of the strand. The sun only worsens this issue as it tends to act as a drying agent, and will strip your curly hair of necessary moisture.

Oil Recommendations

  • Argan oil: helps increase the suppleness and elasticity of the hair and provides emollience and softness
  • Jojoba oil: an ingredient which can add moisture and help lubricate the hair shaft. It is quite beneficial in assisting and maintaining curl formation.

Buy professional products

Using curly hair products with high quality ingredients will greatly assist in restoring your hair to its natural state. It may be a little bit more expensive, but it is a wise investment that will greatly pay off.

Moisture, again and again and again

Since the sun’s rays will strip your curly hair of necessary moisture, it’s important that you take time to replenish it. Using deep conditioning treatments, followed by six drops of oil (such as rosemary oil”> and letting sit for at least 20 minutes will help bring your hair back to a manageable, moisturized state.

Eat a balanced diet

Whether you believe it or not, the food that you eat on a daily basis plays a huge role in the overall health of your hair, as well as its resiliency and ability to bounce back after it has been damaged by the sun. Eating a well balanced diet, exercising on a regular basis, taking a daily multi-vitamin and living a stress-free lifestyle will all greatly aid in your curly hair care routine.

Try at home remedies

There are many different at home remedies that will help to rejuvenate your hair and bring it back to life after a long, hot summer! Try out a mayonnaise hair treatment, olive oil for split ends, egg yolk treatment, henna or coconut oil. Applying these products to your hair, separately, and letting sit for 15-20 minutes will surely help your hair literally bounce back.

Protect those strands

Being proactive about protecting your hair from the sun year round is very important. Just like we apply sunscreen to our skin, we need to protect our hair. By being conscious about prevention methods, you’ll will limit the amount of restoration that you must do in order to get your hair back to its usual healthy state. Wearing hats and scarves whenever you are out in the sun will greatly help you to shield your hair from the sun’s harmful rays. It’s even important to wear a bathing cap whenever swimming; this will not only protect your hair from the sun, but from the chemicals in the pool as well.

Try retinol

Your skin just as sun damaged as your hair? Try using retinol products to heal it!

As summer comes to a close and we start to realize just how sun damaged our curly hair really is, us curlies have to take matters in to our own hands! Take preventive measures, always, in protecting your hair and skin from the sun. We know that hindsight is 20/20, so when your hair has been subject to too much sun, try some homemade hair treatments to keep your hair and follicles healthy.

Did you know hair could be sun damaged?

Follow Keshia (pictured above”> here:

Shiia M. and Instagram


This article was originally published in September 2011.

Why Hair Porosity & Density Matter

Every curly girl knows the importance of understanding the type of porosity and density that your hair has. Hair porosity and density both play a key role in your hair care regimen, what curly hair products you use and how your hair looks overall on a daily basis. Having this knowledge gives you the power to better manage and transform your hair from dull to fab!

Hair Porosity & Density Defined

Porosity

Porosity refers to how well your hair is able to absorb moisture. Hair that is considered to be highly porous is typically damaged and separated from the cuticle. This can be a result of many different factors such as it being over processed to simply having a need for more moisture on a daily basis. On the other hand, hair that is not very porous will be difficult to chemically straighten or perform any type of chemical treatment due to its inability to absorb.

Knowing your hair porosity will help you determine how much moisture your hair needs on a daily, weekly, or monthly basis to achieve the look that you are going for. In addition, you will be better equipped to make decisions regarding your hair products.

Density

On the contrary, hair density looks at the number of hair strands that you have per square inch on your scalp. People with low hair density are said to have thinner hair while people with high hair density have thicker hair. Knowing how dense your hair is will provide you to better choose products that will help either increase the volume in your hair or tone it down.

Though these concepts are both quite different, together they help to determine how your hair should be handled.

Product Recommendations

Daily Care

The daily care of your hair plays a big part in your hair porosity and density. Combing, towel drying, and shampooing can be done in a very rough manner that will damage the hair, creating breakage and cuticle damage. This will leave your hair looking limp and lifeless. Better managing your daily hair care as well as the hair products you use will greatly make a difference. If you have less dense hair, use lighter products. If you have dense hair, use heavier products. Porous hair will need more moisture so that it doesn’t suck it in from the air and frizz. Add these routines and products to your daily hair care routine to further enhance your curl.

Over exposure to Light

Spending too much time in the sun or under UV light can be a huge stressor to your hair cuticles. This will lead to drying on the hair follicle and then breakage. Studies have shown that exposure to sunlight or UV light for 200 hours and beyond can start showing signs of damage. In order to overcome this problem, make sure that you are protecting your hair year-round whenever you are outside with hats and scarves. Drying the hair out can change your porosity, which will cause your usual miracle products to stop working.

Over processing

Using too many chemical treatments, such as relaxing or bleaching, can cause low density and highly porous hair. One way to overcome this issue is to do weekly hair treatments that help restore moisture and reverse the damaging effects of the chemicals. Try at-home methods such as the mayonnaise hair treatment or the apple cider vinegar rinse.

Want More?

Not sure what your hair porosity or density even is? Follow these simple steps to figure it out, test it out, and start planning around it!

Final Thoughts

It is important to keep in mind that everyone’s hair porosity and density are different, even within curl patterns, so you must treat your curls on an individual basis.

Tell us how you incorporate the knowledge of your porosity and density into your curly hair care regimen!

Honey Hair Lightening: Fact or Fiction?
Bun

I’m sure that many of you never knew that this method even existed, but the truth is that honey does work as a natural hair lightener according to the forums on LongHairCommunity.

Many people are used to using natural honey on their hair by adding it to their conditioner and shampoo on a daily or weekly basis to condition and moisturize hair in a natural way. The reality is that a honey hair treatment is a subtle, natural lightening process for your curls.

How Does Honey Hair Coloring Work?

This method works due to the natural hydrogen peroxide that is found in honey. We all know the affect that hydrogen peroxide has on hair. The iron that is also found in the honey oxidizes the oxygen free radicals that are released by the hydrogen peroxide.

The amount of lightening that you can achieve through using this method greatly depends on how well your hair absorbs the honey, or how porous it is.

Honey Hair Conditioner Recipe

Honey Hair Lightening Tips

  • Add a bit of peroxide for a more dramatic honey hair effect.
  • Add ground cardamom, ground cinnamon, coconut oil and extra virgin olive oil for a boost to the natural honey hair color.
  • If you have product or oil in your hair, wash it before applying the mixture.
  • This method requires zero additional heat. Do not apply heat to your hair with the honey in it.
  1. Pour 1/3 cup of honey into a bowl.
  2. Scoop a 1/4 cup of your favorite conditioner and put it in the bowl with the honey.
  3. Combine the mixture until you have the perfect combination and consistency.
  4. Apply the mixture to damp hair and cover with the shower cap. After this mixture has been sitting on your hair and scalp for 8 hours, you can take the shower cap off and wash the mixture out with water.

Honey Hair Lightening Method

  1. Mix honey and distilled water together. Use a 4 to 1 ratio of honey to water to make the mixture work properly.
  2. Apply the mixture to your hair and scalp and let sit under a shower cap for one hour under no additional heat.
  3. Completely rinse the mixture out of your hair and shampoo, condition and style as usual.

The overall outcome of this process will have your hair looking and feeling silky, shiny, and healthy. It will also have your hair looking a little bit lighter in a natural, non-dramatic manner.

This method takes time, and if you are using the honey for only lightening purposes, you may have to leave the treatment on longer, or do it multiple times to get your desired outcome.

Want More?

For more information about honey lightening methods, visit the forums on LongHairCommunity.

Final Thoughts

The honey hair lightening treatment definitely works. If you are looking to try out a natural way to lighten your locks so that you can have lighter hair, look no further than your kitchen cabinets!

Salicylic Acid Shampoo for Curly Hair

No matter what hair type you have, we all struggle with flaking or dandruff from time to time. Having curly hair makes this situation a little bit more difficult because we are trying to avoid washing our hair on a daily basis, but sometimes, due to the itch, we have no choice. Unfortunately, by washing our hair on a daily basis, we can interfere with the style we are trying to achieve.

Turning to shampoos containing salicylic acid is one solution that many curly girls have found in order to remove build up, cure their itch and resolve the dandruff issue. Of course, there is a downfall: the drying factor that the salicylic acid has on our locks.

Is Salicylic Acid Shampoo Safe for Curly Hair?

Won’t It Dry Out My Curls?

Salicylic acid shampoo is safe for curly hair on occasion. Since curly hair has different needs than non-textured hair, those needs must to be taken into consideration.

Shampoos that contain salicylic acid are typically designed to resolve issues such as dandruff. However, there are no conclusive studies that indicate the actual cause of dandruff, so no remedies have been proven to be effective.

Shampoos containing about 2% salicylic are often considered effective at treating itchy scalp and dandruff issues. Just use the shampoo until the problems is resolved, then switch back to your normal routine. Salicylic acid shampoo is safe for curly hair, but can dry it out even further if used too frequently, so use it only in small doses.

The only time that you should contact your doctor about using a salicylic acid shampoo is if you are pregnant, the person using the shampoo is under the age of two or you have any known allergies to it.

What is Salicylic Acid?

The Facts

Salicylic acid is a product that can be derived naturally from the willow tree, which is also referred to as salix. It is then chemically synthesized to treat many different medical conditions, including dandruff, acne and fungus.

Salicylic acid can also be produced in the laboratory by combining sodium phenoxide with carbon dioxide under high pressure. This is a more commercialized way of creating it rather than just turning to it in its pure and natural state from the willow bark.

Salicylic Acid Products

Salicylic acid can be found in numerous products at the pharmacy and in your own home. It is commonly found in aspirin or medications that control headaches, creams that ease inflammation, acne treatments, ointments and bath additives. It can also be found quite frequently in prescription form due to its dangerous nature if ingested in large quantities.

All you really need to do is start reading the ingredient labels, and you will be surprised how common this agent is.

Salicylic Acid Shampoo

When salicylic acid is added to shampoos, its job is to soften and remove the dead skin. This process is completed by the salicylic acid causing the area to which it is applied to swell, then soften, and eventually peel off. It will also open the pores.

Dandruff Be Gone

  • Salicylic acid shampoo can be quite beneficial to those suffering from dandruff or simply from an itchy scalp.
  • It should, however, only be used in moderation to avoid over drying the hair.

Want More?

Salicylic acid not your thing? Try these at homemade hair treatments for dandruff. 

How to Tame Curly Eyebrows
Bun

Many of us blessed with perfect curly hair were also blessed, or another unspeakable word, with not so perfect curly eyebrows.

The existence of these longer, curly brows is annoying, frustrating and often talked about! After all, it is cutting in to our beauty sleep, and no one is okay with that!

Let’s face it — those extra few minutes of sleep or sipping coffee in the morning can really set the tone for the rest of our day. The last thing that we want to be doing is taming any unruly brows. These tips and products will give you some guidance as to how to create perfect eyebrows and take on the day with confidence!

Why Are Our Brows Curly?
Keeping your curl brows at bay doesn’t have to be painful or a hassle!

The same way that our eyebrows match the same color as our natural hair, they also possess qualities of the style and type of hair that we have as well. This is why people who have hair that grows really fast and thick must constantly be trimming their brows, and why people with curly hair have curly eyebrows as well.

  1. Trim, trim trim! As curly brows tend to get out of control, the best way to start to get them tamed is to trim and brush them. By first brushing them, you will be able to see how long your eyebrows actually are, and then use your trimmer and tweezers to shape your brows to the look you want. It is very helpful to first look through magazines and see what the current, perfect eyebrow trends are. This way, you will have a clear idea of what you want. Using a brow shaper as a guide can also be helpful during this step, especially if you have not done it yourself before.
  2. Wax and gel! After you have trimmed and brushed your brows to the point where you achieve the overall look that you are going for, the next step would be to apply a strong wax product to your brows. This will help straighten the curl, and lock the perfect eyebrow shape in. After the amount of wax that you are comfortable with is applied, use a brow gel (such as Anastasia Brow Gel”> and apply that on top. This is a trick of the trade for curly brows because it really locks your look in with double the power. By applying the wax first, the gel has something to adhere to that will help it stay in place longer and stronger.
  3. If all else fails, using a brow shaping and defining kit is another way to assist in achieving your overall desired look. Most of these kits come well equipped with all the necessary products to help keep your unruly brows in place.

Want More?

Nervous about trimming your brows for the first time on your own? Watch professional cosmetic artist Brett Freedman take on the challenge!

Final Thoughts

Don’t let refining your rowdy brows get you too stressed! It is all a process of trial and error until you find what works best for your curly eyebrows. Once you have implemented the system that works best for you, this process will become the least of your problems!

Silicone Hair Products vs. Silicates

Silicone hair products and silicates both affect curly hair in different ways. It is very important to be aware of the main differences and similarities whenever you are choosing hair products containing these ingredients. Being aware of the effects of these ingredients will make you aware of what they can to your hair, both in the long run and in the short run. You’ll be fully prepared to make the best hair care choices for your curly locks, and help you to achieve your best curls yet!

Silicone Hair Products

The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

Whenever silicones are added to hair care products, you can typically find them in the ingredient list by identifying ingredients ending in a “cone,” “conol,” “col,” or “xane.” Whenever they have a “PEG” or “PPG,” it means that they are safe to use on your curly tresses.

Silicone hair products characteristically are not water soluble, which will cause build-up in your hair over time. In order to get rid of the build-up that silicone hair products can create, you will have to use a shampoo that is surfactant-based. If using products that include silicones, it is highly advised to use the surfactant-based shampoo on a regular rotation to make sure that your hair is always looking its best, and to ensure that you are ridding your locks of the products that can steal away shine and weigh your curls down. Adding this surfactant-based shampoo to your weekly hair care routine will help maintain the luster and wellbeing that you want your hair to maintain for the long run.

Silicate Hair Products

Worse Than Silicones?

Silicates are another type of ingredient that are well known for being added into hair care products. There are many different types of silicates, such as aluminum silicate, calcium silicate and zirconium silicate. Depending on the type of silicate that is included in the product you are using, they may or may not be more abrasive than silicones. According to Cosmeticsinfo, however, “CIR Expert Panel concluded that these ingredients were safe as currently used in cosmetic and personal care formulations.”

The Conclusion

What Does Your Hair Need?

Silicone hair products have seemed to take the stage in the popularity contest between these two ingredients, due to how well known the products that contain them have become over the years. In addition, products containing silicone ingredients have promised many different attributes to their customers such as shiny hair, enhancing curl retention, and increased amounts of all-over gloss.

Silicones can be found in both shampoos and conditioners. Due to the molecular structure of the silicone molecule, the silicone hair products are able to spread consistently over the strand of hair, making their entire head of hair feel lightweight and silky, at least for a short period of time.

Overall, in this debate between silicone hair products vs. silicate hair products, it all comes down to what works best for your hair. Each type of ingredient has a different reaction when used on your beloved curls, and you have to find out what works best for you. Sometimes this takes a period of trial and error, studying ingredient lists for hours at drugstores, and possibly some bad hair days. But, once you come to the conclusion of the products and ingredients that work best for you, the wait will have been well worth it.

Hard and Fast Differences

  • Silicones are synthetic compounds that are usually heat-resistent and are most often non-water soluble. This insolubility causes build up in your hair, weighing it down and creating a dull look.
  • Using silicones requires that you use a shampoo that will strip the hair of the ingredients.
  • Silicates do not boast the shine adding and curl defining results that silicones do, but silicates are water-soluble.
  • Silicates are not synthetic, but naturally occurring, and result in a softer hair finish.

Need Silicone-Free Products?

Choose from dozens of silicone-free products reviewed by curlies just like you!

10 Silicones in Curly Hair Products to Avoid
Bun

When looking for new curly hair products to help tame your tresses, look at the list of ingredients rather than the brand or product line itself. Most of the time, if you are at a salon and looking through professional products for curly hair, all of your options are great. Whenever you are in a drugstore, however, it is best to spend some time reading the labels to find the best product that will suit you and your curly hair perfectly.

Overall, no matter where you shop, the variety of silicones in hair products should have you and your ringlets running for the hills. If you want to avoid  dry, brittle and flat strands, choose silicone-free hair products without any of the ingredients listed below.

Silicones That Cause Buildup

Knowing what you’re putting in your hair is half the battle to perfect curls.

Silicones in curly hair products will produce build up in your hair and scalp due to their inability to dissolve in water. Since their names can be quite difficult to remember, just keep in mind that anything ending in “cone,” “conol,” “col,” or “xane,” should be avoided. The only exceptions here are those ingredients with the abbreviations “PEG” or “PPG” in front of them. This abbreviation will alert you that they were made to be water-soluble, and won’t produce the build-up other silicones are known to cause.

The Skinny on Silicones

  1. Cetearyl Methicone 
  2. Cetyl Dimethicone 
  3. Dimethicone
  4. Dimethiconol
  5. Stearyl Dimethicone

Gentler Silicones

These ingredients are silicones as well, but the way that they are chemically constructed allows them to help repel the deposits that the typical silicones leave behind. Yes, they will slow down the build-up process, but as time passes, you will want to switch from products containing these ingredients to something more beneficial for your hair and scalp. These silicones may boast that they prevent build-up. Fortunately, you can use a clarifying shampoo and deep conditioner to restore your hair’s health and vitality.

  1. Amodimethicone
  2. Cyclomethicone/Cyclopentasiloxane
  3. Trimethylsilylamodimethicone

Water Soluble Silicones

These ingredients are still considered to be silicones, but are somewhat soluble in water.  If you are in a hurry, and must purchase curly hair products that contain them, beware that they will cause unwanted build-up over time just like any other silicone.

  1. Behenoxy Dimethicone
  2. Stearoxy Dimethicone

How to Get Rid of Silicone Build-up

In order to get rid of the build-up that these products bring, it is best to use a surfactant. A surfactant is a harsh chemical that will clean your hair and rid it of all the unwanted chemicals and build-up. Surfactants are found in all soaps and cleansers, however, for curly hair, it is best to use a nonionic surfactant. Nonionic surfactants are gentler on the hair and won’t cause any damage to the curl pattern.

Ingredient Breakdown

Take this comprehensive list of ingredients in curly hair products with you the next time you go shopping for your hair.

Final thoughts

Overall, be careful when choosing your curly hair products, and remember, no one knows your curls like you do. What works for one person may not work for you, but these ten product ingredients cause the same amount of damage to all hair types. Pick up a bottle and investigate next time you’re out buying your hair products; you’ll be amazed to find what your favorites contain, and what they don’t.

Be a smart curly shopper!

Rotate Your Curly Hair Products

Rotating ProductsIn the same way that we get sick of eating the same foods every day, or doing the same exercises every week, our hair can get sick of us using the same curly hair products. The product you swore by last month might just not be cutting it anymore. Rotating your hair products on a regular basis is an essential key in always looking your best!

Of course, we all have our “holy grail” hair products that we turn to on a regular basis for hair emergencies and special nights out on the town. This is part of giving our overall look that extra bit of “fabulousness.” But for daily hair care, we need to be much more aware of what these products are doing to our hair and how they will be affecting us in the long run.

Ingredients Matter

Many curly hair care products contain ingredients that leave a heavy buildup, coat the strand, don’t allow moisture to enter and just plain dry the tresses out. Therefore, it’s important to identify the ingredients in the products that you use. It’s alright to mix lower and higher end hair products, as long as the ingredients are doing good things for your hair. This helps with your overall hair care rotation, not to mention your budget!

Some stylists, however, believe that if you’re using all professional products, it’s not necessary to rotate them. That’s because these products contain high quality ingredients that work with your hair and are designed to be used for a long time. Other hair care professionals believe that instead of rotating hair care products, simply using a clarifying shampoo on a weekly basis will rid your hair and scalp of product build up, allowing your products to work as new. Either way, it’s important to pay attention to the ingredients in each product and understand how those ingredients will affect your hair.

One Size Does Not Fit All

Keep in mind that how ingredients and products affect you depends on what works best for your specific hair type. Each hair type works differently when paired with different products. It helps to have a daily hair care routine that is designed specifically for your type of tresses. Remember, there are more individual hair types than 2 through 4. You can also have fine, think or porous hair, as well as other unique factors.

In the end, it’s important to be proactive about the curly hair products you use on a daily basis. Instead of being persuaded through magazine advertisements and commercials, research ingredients and apply the outcome of those ingredients to your specific hair type.

After all, you wouldn’t put something in your body without reading the label, so pay close attention and don’t put something on your body without reading it either. Your hair will thank you, and at the end of the day, you’ll notice the difference.