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Are baking soda and apple cider vinegar really the best for cleansing your natural hair? Find out below!
Are you familiar with The Natural Haven blog? The name sounds like it’s about natural products but it’s really about the the science of natural hair, in other words hair that hasn’t been chemically processed. It’s written by a scientist who goes by the name of “JC” and she posted a very interesting piece on evaluating different types of mild cleansers.
She did an experiment where she collected her own shed hair which she divided into several groups: a negative control group that was left dirty and oily. A positive control that was washed with regular shampoo, and several test groups which she washed with different types of cleansers. then, and here’s the cool part, she took micrographs of group to determine how well the test products cleaned.
Here’s what she found:
- Best cleansers (all of the oil removal”>: shampoo, oat water (oats boiled in water to release natural saponins”>, and natural soap bar.
- Good cleanser (most of the oil removed”>: Hair conditioner (cowash”>, liquid castle soap, and clay.
- Poor cleanser (little to no oil removal”>: Baking soda, Shikaki (crushed acacia pods”> and the worst of all Apple Cider Vinegar.
The reason I mention this story is that It’s refreshing to see someone look for evidence rather than just say “ baking soda and ACV are best for cleansing your hair.” So kudos to you JC of The Natural Haven! The Beauty Brains salute you!
Some curlies swear by ACV rinses and others only co-wash, but as you’ll quickly find on your curly hair journey, what works for one won’t work for another.
What’s your cleansing regimen?
This article was originally published on The Beauty Brains and shared on CurlyNikki.
According to the University of Chicago Medicine, men and women shed an average of 50 to 100 hairs per day, and 90 percent of hair grows continuously. The other 10 percent stays in a “resting phase” for a few months until it sheds. However, some people experience more shed hair, or hair loss, than others. A number of things contribute to hair loss, including aging, hormones, stress, and illness. Other lesser known reasons for hair loss include excessive vitamin A intake and pattern baldness caused by hats, headbands, or eyeglasses. It is typically more prevalent along the hairline, or vertex, of the scalp.
Thankfully there are number of hair loss treatments available in the hair care or vitamin section of most grocery and wellness stores. Next time, take a look at the main ingredient on the box of each product and you might notice one word that they all have in common: Minoxidil.
Understanding the real of baldness
Ryan Doss for Livestrong tells us how pattern baldness occurs–first, testosterone is converted into dihydrotestosterone or, DHT. Then, “it has the ability to bind to special receptors on hair follicles. Individuals with a genetic predisposition to male pattern baldness have similar receptors on the hair follicles in their scalp that, instead of promoting hair growth when bound by DHT, actually thin hair and cause hair loss.”How does Minoxidil work?
The National Institutes of Health (NIH”> says “Minoxidil is used to stimulate hair growth and to slow balding.” It prolongs the growth phase of hair follicles by widening them and prolonging the anagen stage of hair growth. This increases the density of the affected person’s hair. The exact cause of how Minoxidil works on a physiological basis is still unknown but since being FDA-approved in 1988, this drug has been proven to show exceptional results in slowing hair loss.Quantity and application
Originally intended as a blood pressure solution, Minoxidil topical now comes in pure form as a liquid with either an extender spray, dropper, or rub-on applicator for easy application to the scalp. Walgreens has a 2% women’s Minoxidil topical solution in a 3-month supply. For men, Rogaine offers a 5% 3-month supply in the form of a foam. These companies usually advise to not exceed usage twice daily. It is important to know that overusing this drug will not produce faster results.Note: Ask your doctor before using topical Minoxidil. It is not to be confused with oral Minoxidil. This advice is not intended to be replaced with that of a licensed professional.
Britney Spears and Iggy Azalea are trying to bring a (bad”> 80’s trend back.
True 80s babies can officially hide underneath a rock while the ugly crimped hair trend swings through for a comeback. Did you watch the Britney Spears and Iggy Azaela video for Pretty Girls? Neither did we. But based off of the overload of screenshots (AKA future memes”> found on the internet, there was no shortage of tacky neon fashion accessories, crimping irons, and crop tops on set. We’ll pass on the crimpers and rock our natural curls instead.
One writer’s take on living with curly hair care helps us relate…
Life has been no walk in the park for curly girl Maggie Lange. And if the elements have anything to do with the situation, forget about it. (“Any droplet could start a butterfly effect of frizz.””> But if years of experience dealing with an untamable mane account for anything, Maggie has got your back. She offers her fellow NY Mag followers the top 5 must-know tips all curlies should follow, stat.
…While another writer reminds us why laying off the flat irons was a good call.
No matter where in our natural hair journeys we may be now, we all remember the freakily obsessed days with our crispy flat irons. And if we ever act too good to remember, Seventeen writer Jelani Addams sure does bring us back to what once our everyday reality. We sure are thankful for it. She shares her horrific experience badly heat damaging her coarse textured hair and how it scarred her for life– no pun intended.
Oh, you didn’t know? Hair Botox is a thing now.
For those of us who have failed luck with numerous deep conditioning protein treatments and are desperate to repair our hair damage, look no further. There’s a revamped version of “Hair Botox” –it’s called Elite Hair Protein, and it helps the hair follicles strengthen by coating and hardening them with collagen and other necessary proteins. Eve Salon in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia specializes in the treatment. Rehab, a specialist at the salon says this Hair Botox is multipurpose: “The treatment enables hair recovery, growth, strengthening through three attained results: intensive conditioning and damage recovery of hair strands, strong coating on hair follicles that eliminates hair breakage and prevention of split ends, and texture nourishment that ends hair knots and hair fall.”
Ombre isn’t going anywhere–you can thank Foilyage for that.
Bayalage, dip dyeing, contouring, pixelated, ecaille, ombre. All of the trendy, edgy hair coloring techniques your salon constantly tried to lure you into trying. If you’ve colored your hair in the past say, two years, chances are you have tested ombre out for yourself. Now in 2015, it’s attempting another go with the millennials. Enter: Foilyage. Similar but also different from the “streaking” method circa our Nsync and Britney Spears idolization era, this hair coloring technique was developed by Hitomi Ikeda, combining “free-hand painting with foil highlighting.” Will you ask your hairstylist for this?
Seborrheic dermatitis is often mistaken for regular dandruff. Head and Shoulders defines seborrheic dermatitis as the “scalp’s extreme reaction to the presence of irritants – when the scalp becomes highly irritated, it gets inflamed, and skin cell turnover starts happening too rapidly. This acceleration leads to large clumps of cells forming at the scalp surface, becoming visible flakes.” It is often associated with an overproduction of sebum with large white or yellow flakes that are adhesive to the scalp. Most of the people in my family, including myself, live with this condition from cradle to grave and this is how I maintain a flake-free, itch-free scalp.
Cleanse weekly
Cleansing once to twice a week is important. The overproduction of oil only further irritates the inflammation and therefore it needs to be removed frequently. When I am not being lazy, twice a week will leave me completely without flakes and sores. Depending on the severity and your doctor’s orders, you may need to use a prescription shampoo or a medicated shampoo that is specifically formulated for your scalp condition like the following:
- Head & Shoulders Clinical Strength Shampoo
- Neutrogena T/Gel Shampoo
- Neutrogena T/Gel Extra Strength
- Neutrogena T/Sal Scalp Build-Up Control
From past experience, these shampoos feel amazing on the scalp, especially the T/Gel Extra Strength. The tar leaves your scalp with a cool, minty sensation that is amazing. I discontinued using the shampoo for no specific reason other than going natural and the severity of my condition abated. Always remember to deep condition after cleansing, as you want to restore the hair’s pH and replenish it with the nutrients it lost while washing, especially with medicated shampoos. One major factor that is often overlooked and equally as important as shampoo is the technique.
Section and hold the hair taut
The scales or flakes from seborrheic dermatitis are usually quite thick. Google cradle cap and it is the adult version of that. Because of this, it is important to make sure that you are sectioning the hair and applying the cleanser directly to your scalp. It is easy to fault the shampoo as ineffective if you are applying it to the length of the hair and hoping the lather reaches the scalp. When cleansing you want to hold your ends taut with one hand while scrubbing with the other. This will help to prevent your hair from retracting and tangling as you try to uplift the flakes. Sectioning is also essential when you rinse. You want to section within sections and make sure the water stream is rinsing away all of the debris.
Use a scalp brush
One of the best inventions ever made. Everyone’s condition varies and for many the scalp is covered in scales, so it is important to thoroughly exfoliates every inch of your scalp, especially where you flake the most, which for me is around the front of my hairline and my crown. You do not want to use your nails, as they can be too abrasive for your scalp and could cause bleeding (shamefully raising my hand”>. If you do not want to purchase a scalp brush then use the pads of your fingers and gently scrub.
Do not oil your scalp
Unless you receive a medicated treatment from your doctor, do not oil your scalp. Your scalp already produces too much sebum and this will only agitate the condition. When your scalp is becoming itchy and flaky, that is simply a sign that it is time for another wash.
If you must protective style…
If you opt to protective style, then I strongly encourage braids first, wigs second, and sew-ins never. Braids allow for convenient access to the scalp, which makes for easier removal of the flakes. With seborrheic dermatitis is important for the scalp to breathe, so if it is between a sew-in and a wig, go with the wig, as it can be removed nightly. I strongly advise against a sew-in because of the flakes. The scales from seborrheic dermatitis develop completely different from standard dandruff. Scales from sebborheic dermatitis tend to be much larger and wrap around multiple strands of hair, which is difficult to thoroughly remove from hair that is cornrows underneath extension hair.
This is how I manage my seborrheic dermatitis, and at the end of my wash day I am left with a refreshed scalp and no scales.
What does wash day look like for your scalp condition?
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SheaMoisture African Black Soap and Yucca and Plantain
We’ve spotted that the SheaMoisture Yucca and Plantain collection, formerly Yucca and Baobab collection, has expanded by adding a Wave Defining Lotion, Anti-breakage Firm Hold Gel Cream, and Anti-breakage Body Lifting Styler. The African Black Soap collection has been completely reformulated along with name changes. The Dandruff Control Shampoo, previously known as the Deep Cleansing Shampoo, is now an opaque yellow hue. The conditioner previously known as the Balancing Conditioner is now a Dandruff Control Conditioner.
The beloved purification masque is no longer brown and loose in consistency; it is now a thick, white Dandruff Control Masque. The consistency? Well, that would require me contaminating the product with my fingers without purchasing it, so if you’ve tried it then let us know in the comment section. We are not sure if the new addition Dandruff Control Pre-poo Rinse is replacing the Dandruff and Dry Scalp Elixir but I can already tell you that I love the packaging. If you want to know the way to a curly heart, then start packaging products that focus on the scalp with narrow nozzles.
For all of the curlies with scalp conditions, there is nothing is better than a pre-poo to loosen dandruff and debris before cleansing, so SheaMoisture formulated a dandruff control pre-poo rinse. Can this get any better? They finally released a daily conditioner for the Jamaican Black Castor Oil collection in January of this year.
ORS Curls Unleashed
As far as the ORS Curls Unleashed collection, let’s start off acknowledging the beautiful illustration of Aya on the front label. I have yet to try the products and I am over the moon loving the packaging. The Lavish in Lather Sulfate-free Shampoo has now been upgraded to the Rosemary & Coconut Sulfate-Free Shampoo that is formulated with olive oil as the sixth ingredient instead of the fifteenth. Following is coconut oil, rosemary oil, and hydrolyzed keratin. This shampoo appears to be extremely moisturizing, soothing, and strengthening.
The Let it Flow Shine and Define Mousse has been upgraded to the Green Tea and Mango Shine Define Mousse that contains mango fruit extract, camellia sinensis leaf (green tea“> extract, and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E“> to nourish and define your curls and coils while controlling frizz.
The Take Command Curl Defining Crème, now the Shea Butter and Honey Curl Defining Crème promises to provide moisturized curl definition with less shrinkage. The new formulation include olive oil, centrimonium chloride (adds conditioning agents along with slip”>, and honey (humectant”>. The new Sage and Kiwi Intense Hair Conditioner has been formulated with coconut oil, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E”>, and anthemis nobilis flower (chamomile“> extract.
Head and Shoulders
Guess who else is listening to their curly consumers? Head and Shoulders! As a curly with a scalp conditioner, it can be challenging to find a shampoo that effectively cleanses the scalp without compromising the moisture in my hair. Well, what do you know? Head and Shoulders has a co-wash! We have not been able to get our hands on a bottle yet but these are the ingredients:
Water, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Glutamic Acid, Dimethicone, Fragrance, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond”> Oil, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Yellow 5, Red 33, Blue 1.
I must say it’s not too bad. It appears to be full of slip from the fatty alcohols. It does not contain sulfates and at least there is some trace of oils. Will they add more? We’ll see!
Have you tried any of these new products? Let us know the scoop!
Dana writes:
I have gray roots and the remainder of my hair is light brown with dark brown ends. My hair is damaged from coloring and over pressing. I would like my hair to be a dark plum or auburn color and healthy. My natural color is dark brown. What kind of henna or combination should I use?
CurlyNikki says:
Celebration will be your best bet as it has a very high dye content (3.4% lawsone”>, and yields a deep auburn color over time. Remember that multiple applications will be necessary for your grays to darken to the color you want. I have many gray hairs and I’ve been hennaing (with Jamila, Yemen, and Henna for African Hair”> for years. All of my grays are now a rich, auburn color… gorgeous. The rest of my hair is fuller, shinier, and healthier looking. It’s a rich, shiny black color indoors (with a few red highlights”>, and glows auburn in the sun… like a rinse.
When new grays come in or my roots show, I simply apply an overnight treatment, and after a couple of days, it oxidizes to a nice bronzey red. After another treatment, the roots match the length– auburn.
For you, the key will be:
- Four hour (or more”> treatments
- Multiple applications (for darker results”>
- Cleansing prior to application. Although I don’t really do this anymore, if you have a lot of grays, this step is crucial. It will remove buildup and sebum, so that the dye can make the best contact with your roots.
Also, be sure to do lots of conditioning afterward to keep your hair moisturized, elastic, and supple. If your ends (and length?”> are indeed damaged, and you’re not interested in a Big Chop, you probably want to schedule some micro trims.
Real life example
My aunt Toney has been a redhead since I can remember. She’s naturally a medium to dark brown, but used boxed dyes to maintain a light auburn. A couple of years ago she transitioned to natural color with henna. Above is a pic of her shortly after starting henna (applying the paste to her grays and color treated strands”>.
This is a picture of her in February after many treatments. In person, her hair is a dark, rich, auburn (noticeably red indoors”>, and her grays (especially near her roots”> are a shade or two lighter (similar to the darker parts of her hair in the pic above”>. It’s an awesome color contrast and she gets tons of compliments.
This article was originally published on CurlyNikki.
Roanoake, Virginia brothers Willie and George Muse knew nothing other than intense criticism and fascination from their fellow classmates, family members, and neighbors since day 1. They were often seen as a spectacle of some sort because of their unique look–both brothers had long free-form locks and were albino black men.
Willie and George were kidnapped in 1899 by sideshow agents who scouted people for their circus acts.
Willie and George were kidnapped in 1899 by sideshow agents who scouted people for their circus acts. Though they were young, the brothers immediately were sent to work by the agents and thus a circus freak act career had begun.
Kidnapped, sold off, and exploited for their appearance
Initially called “The White Ecuadorian Cannibals Eko and Iko”, Willie and George attracted little attention by crowds and their agents experimented with an array of different titles for the pair, from “The Sheep-Headed Men” to the “Ambassadors From Mars” which later was changed to “Men from Mars”. They toured with The Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus throughout the 1920s, even performing at Madison Square Garden and bringing in about 10,000 spectators–a record at the time. One day in 1927, the brothers were finally freed from their owners/agents when they were rediscovered by their mother. It was around that time that the brothers decided to take legal action in regards to the lack of compensation they had been receiving during their tour. Through a long string of courtroom visits, Willie & George finally settled for a small flat monthly wage.From the 1930s to 1961 the albino brothers performed for the likes of the Queen of England and all across the globe in Australia, Europe, and Asia. Their new contracts allowed them to make more money than they had ever imagined while locked within the confinement of their previous captors.
Returning to their roots
Ending their career performing with the Clyde Beatty Circus, Willie and George Muse decided to retire and settle back down in their hometown from which they were abducted as young boys. They came together to purchase a house for their mother, both never married, and enjoyed their retired days of leisure and success with money and newfound popularity. In 1971, George passed away due to unknown circumstances, and his brother Willie, who died in 2001, lived to be 108 years old.
The story of the Muse Brothers sparked a revolution in the entertainment industry for decades to follow. Two odd looking brothers with African features yet pale white skin and natural hair were taken from everything they’d known and used as objects of entertainment for people who simply could not relate to them. They were viewed by the world as outcasts, sideshow attractions, clowns, yet Willie & George Muse paved the way for albinism and natural hair in the 1900s. The brothers used their oddities and capitalized on their circumstances, allowing them the opportunity to refocus on the necessities in life–love, family, and acceptance of self.
Who would have thought that two underprivileged, enslaved Albino brothers with natural hair (locs”> would have made it so far in an era when so little was understood about this culture?
Natural Gray Hair Inspiration: Janice
My name is Janice Cosby Bridges and I am a year natural. I cannot tell you how proud I am of myself! I did the BIG CHOP. I will be 58 years old in October and have had a relaxer since age 11.
I am the Chief Marketing Officer for a very large health system in Michigan and have been in healthcare marketing for 25 years.
Becoming natural has been a wonderful rewarding journey for me. I was afraid because I am completely gray and I have been known for my spiky gray hair cut. As a matter of fact, I was the first place winner of the 2012 Beauty Search for More Magazine. I won $5,000, and all expense paid trip to NY city and many other prizes. I’m featured in the Oct 2012 issue with my popular hair cut.
So I was very comfortable with my hair and actually didn’t want to disappoint people by going natural. But I’ve always wanted to be natural and it is the best thing I’ve ever done.
I love my kinky curly hair. So I thought I would reach out to represent all of us older folks to encourage other mature women to go natural. I’m stopped every day, all day about my hair.
I was stopped all the time when I had the relaxer, but being natural has taken it to a new level.
Do you rock your hair gray and natural? Leave a comment for our community members who are considering it!
This post was originally published on CurlyNikki.
I was sure to let Dianne know that I wanted to keep my hair’s length at the bottom, just needed a good ‘shape-up’ around the top with possibly some face-framing layers. Nothing major, and I made that clear. Although this was my first trim in a while and dry cut EVER, I trusted Dianne near me with scissors as her words were comforting yet still precise in how she was about to maneuver my springy curls.
Watch the Video
Before Dianne flew south, I wanted to feel her out on both a professional and personal level. I typically like to know or have been referred to a stylist personally before I allow them to touch my hair with a pair of shears. So the best way, I thought, was none other than to email Dianne some questions and find out more about this eccentric Bay Area curly hair stylist.
What inspired you to enter the hair industry?
Dianne Nola: I needed a job. I had just graduated college in the arts and didn’t want to go to graduate school. I was already cutting hair at $5 a person and loved it. Those were the only jobs that appealed to me in the paper. An office job wasn’t going to work with my energetic nature.
When did you know that being a curly stylist is what you wanted to do?
DN: Cutting curly hair is something I’ve always done. I’ve always had a certain amount of curly clientele. I kept honing my skills because it drew me in; it was challenging. I was drawn to all of the infinite textures and stories behind each person. I was attracted to the beauty of the hair.
How would you define your own hair?
DN: Fine in diameter. Completely colored. Mainly 2C with 2B on crown.
Explain in your own words what a Devacurl dry cut is.
DN: A method of using only your fingers to lift the hair and cut. No use of the comb. The cut is connected to the washing, drying and styling methods and the “Curly Girl Method” in general.
What are some of the biggest concerns clients have when it comes to their hair?
Thinning and loss of hair with aging. What causes it, what can they do about it and how it affects their identity. In my experience, thinning hair happens because of a gradual or abrupt change in hormones. I’m not a doctor, just an investigative stylist who has seen a lot of patterns over the years. Several times a week, a woman will sit in my chair and confide about her hair loss. I listen. I get it. This is what all women need, especially those who are thinning. We need to be heard.
What advice would you give to someone who has never had a dry cut and might be a little nervous? (like me!”>
DN: First, make sure you go to a skilled, trained and passionate curly hair artist. I recommend finding someone in your area that is in Curly Hair Artistry. This is a group where most stylists have been through the Deva training and meet the above qualifications. One must be admitted to the group.
I like to guide my new clients throughout the process. When I first have contact with them, I connect on an emotional level, let them know my intent to help and try to hear their needs and fears. I think that pacifies their anxiety. Then, I explain the breakdown in time and procedures of what will happen. For example, “Next we will go to this shampoo chair and I will use this product.”
Depending on where they’re at emotionally, I might stop after completing the sides or back and show them with a mirror. I’ll point to the ground to show them the amount of hair I’ve taken off. How can I spend an hour on their hair with hardly anything on the floor and it end up looking so different? It’s called Strategic Cutting!
What are some of your favorite products to use on clients right now?
DN: I am always learning; through the Devachan grapevine, my CHA colleagues or my clients usually turn me on to a new product they are using. I read through ingredients, check for silicones, smell it and feel how it moves between my fingers.
I carry DevaCurl and Jessicurl. I love Jessicurl’s latest gel, Spiralicious! It works great on my 2B-3B curly clients. I love the viscosity and clumping action. I also love the citrus lavender fragrance in the line. I also use a lot of Deva’s Styling Cream and Jess’ Confident Coils for my 3-4s who want more elongation of their curl with touchable hair.
In the Bay Area there is much demand for eco-friendly and non-fragrant products. Jessicurl fills that need for my clientele. I am always learning and testing products but it’s a small salon, so two lines are plenty.
What do you recommend clients do before they come in to see you?
DN: Please read my F.A.Q. on my website, it clarifies the difference between wet and dry cuts.
My final conclusion…
Dianne kept true to her word; she shaped my curls to fall as layers on top of each other, whereas in my earlier pics you might notice that my hair was absolutely shapeless. She moisturized my thirsty hair with DevaCurl NoPoo. After diffusing, Dianne added metal clips to weigh my curls down so they would stretch (to minimize shrinkage”>. She showed me how to scrunch individual sections after applying Arc AnGEL to minimize frizz and add definition. Per her advice, I did an ACV rinse to remove excess buildup my hair had from styling products. It was one of the greatest things I did for my curls so far this year…See my results here.
To find out more about the Curly Hair Artistry group, click here for their Facebook page. To book an appointment with Dianne Nola or learn more about this curly hair stylist veteran, visit her website, www.diannenola.com.
More: West Coast Hair Trends
Did you know I spent 16 years in the travel business?
I sure did. I spent 16 years as a professional travel agent, traveling the world and making people’s dreams come true. It was a wonderful career and I enjoyed most every minute until the writing on the wall said it was time to do something else. The birth of my third daughter, Morgan, helped me understand that change is good and it was now time to make a change.
For the last couple of years, I have done a little of this and little of that. I have worked in a call center for a hotel chain, served as the director of sales in a hotel, and helped out wherever I can to make a few dollars. Last November, I put on my big girl panties and got serious about finishing my book and organizing our local support group, Parenting Across Color. In one year, I have incorporated the organization, completed the process of becoming a non-profit with tax exempt status from the IRS, completed and now launched the book. Wow. I feel tired just remembering it all. And I wonder, what is next for me?
Ursula Dudley-OglesbyI am passionate about the cause of African-American children in the foster system, since all 3 of mine came from the system. I feel called to help these kids in any way I can, whether through workshops on being a trans-racial family or identifying needs that are not being met. For instance, what is the one thing a white family will never have on hand when a black child is placed in their home temporarily or permanently? Oil. White people simply do not have a need for oil, or grease, for their heads and will not have an extra bottle under the bathroom sink for the child who arrived in the middle of the night.
For a long time, I have wanted to create a care kit for African-American youth in the foster system. This kit would include the necessary items for proper hair care and would accompany any child being placed in the foster system. I shared this idea with a friend in the Department of Family and Protective Services and then bing, bang, boom—I am sitting across the table from Ursula Dudley-Oglesby, President of Dudley’s Hair Care and Cosmetics, talking about the hair care kits. I found an ally in Ursula, who recognized the immediate hair needs of black youth who have come from homes where they were abused and/or neglected and who may be living in a new home where their hair is not understood.
I have every finger and toe crossed that Dudley’s and the state of Texas will quickly work out a deal to meet the needs of these kiddos, any of one whom could easily have been mine. I am a firm believer that when we look good, we feel good and when we feel good, we do good. Let’s see what happens when we make some children feel good.
Q: I’m a swimmer all year ’round and my hair feels like straw….I use lots of conditioner and try my best to make it work, but it doesn’t. Are there any products to help stop the breaking and restore my lovely locks? Also, my hair falls out a lot in the shower and I think its because of the pool. Any suggestions?
A: For starters, get off of conventional shampoo and clarifying products. They dehydrate the hair, causing breakage and split ends with a straw-like feel. Start using 100% sulfate-free DevaCurl No-Poo cleanser. The botanically infused ingredients, along with its balanced pH, will keep your hydration level in check. First, I suggest wetting your hair in the locker room shower. Then, add DevaCurl One Condition to towel-dried hair before putting on the cap. I suggest a lycra cap followed by a latex cap to protect any chlorinated water from penetrating your hair. Deva is water soluble and there is never any need to clarify!
Q: I started a shampoo free routine 2 weeks ago. My problem is that by day two my head itches really bad and starts flaking. Is that normal?
A: You may not be rinsing thoroughly. Make sure when you use DevaCurl No-Poo, you follow with One Condition and only Deva stylers. If you are using synthetically derived products other than Deva on your hair, this may be casuing a reaction. Vigorously scrub and agitate the scalp with your fingertips in a circular massaging motion while cleansing with DevaCurl No-Poo. Friction is what cleans the hair and moves dirt particles.
Q: Does mousse dry out curly hair really bad? Because I use it every day!
A: Mousse is extremely dehydrating and is detrimental to curly hair, which needs moisture. Stop using it immediately. Most mousses contain plastics, which further dehydrate and suffocate the hair. It sounds as if you desire curl volume. Try B’Leave-In , curl volumizer or Set Up & Above. They are moisturizing and plastic-free!
Q: I’m a teenage girl. I had very curly hair — it almost looked like a afroish, and now it’s getting straighter and straighter. What do I do? I have to put a lot of mousse and gel to get it curly. I don’t want straight hair.
A: Your curl’s “spring factor” is a direct response to moisture! Mousse removes moisture from the hair and can sometimes give it a limp, sedated appearance. I suggest using cleansing and moisturizing using DevaCurl No-Poo followed by Heaven In Hair deep treatment to restore the moisture. Use once or twice weekly on towel dried hair under a plastic cap, with or without heat. When rinsing, leave some conditioner in the hair. These products are water soluble and have zero build-up. You will be amazed at how the curls begin to bounce again! Then, finish with Set It Free moisture lock and watch your curls come back to life!
A trip to a salon can end in a disaster if you’re not prepared.
Even the most heinous haircut seems to at least start with hope and a smile. But then comes the moment when excitement turns to dread. You know something is wrong, and you want to speak up, scream, run! But you don’t, or can’t, or won’t. You feel invisibly chained to the stylist’s chair as the nightmare continues on auto-pilot, until it’s finally over. Why put yourself through the tress torture?
Here, we learn from curlies who endured the most common (yet disastrous”> salon snafus. Find out what they learned from their mane mistakes — and how they made a curly comeback.
SALON SNAFU: You emerge with the dreaded pyramid
Like many curlies, Susan Rizk has long been on the receiving end of nightmarish haircuts. “My hair has been teased and blow-dried upside down,” says Rizk of Salem, New Hampshire.
Her worst curl-crushing cut unfolded at an upscale salon five summers ago. Although she told the stylist that she had no interest in looking like a poodle, her curls were sheared into a poofy pyramid that “made my round face look rounder,” Rizk says. Shocked and speechless, she left in tears.
Looking back, Rizk doesn’t recall any red flags that would have warned her of the disastrous ‘do. The salon was even highly recommended by her sister, although she has a “borderline straight” texture. (I can hear you now: “There’s the red flag!””>
Lesson Learned: Rizk is now “extremely specific” with stylists about what she wants, and offers a thorough disclaimer before the first snip.
“I’ve had bad experiences in the past. I just want to shape my curls,” Rizk tells them now. “I don’t want pyramid hair, and please don’t cut more than a few millimeters off the longest layers.”
Silver Lining: She eventually found a stylist who is “curl-friendly,” who doesn’t suggest blowouts or ask if she wants to “smooth” her hair.
“That term is so irritating,” says Rizk, noting that her new stylist is a good listener and provides a great cut. As for styling? Well, that’s a different story.
“I feel like curls are very picky about how you can style them, and what works for you doesn’t work for me, not even a little bit,” she says, “(But”> as long as I get a good cut, I’m happy.”
SALON SNAFU: You fall for a bait and switch
Sherri, after her disastrous hair cut.
Back in April, Sherri K. of Newark, Calif., thought she found a stylist who knew how to cut curly hair. After all, she just needed a trim.
“He said he understood the concept of the Deva cut (the Devachan Salon method of tailoring a dry cut based on individual curls”> . . . and he would cut my hair dry,” she says.
But the cut didn’t resemble any Deva cut that Sherri had ever received. This stylist — who also had curly hair, but had it blown out that day — combed her curls with a fine-toothed comb and a silicone-based shine serum, before cutting them.
“I had no idea what he was using (at the time”>,” Sherri recalls. “I thought it was a conditioner.”
When it was all over, nearly six inches of curls — gone! What was left? Stacked layers, resembling a misshapen bob.
“I went from a great Deva cut that just needed a little trim to a butchered head of frizzy, stacked, ugly hair,” she says.
After sharing her mishap with the curly-haired manager, who was also a stylist, she fixed the shape of the cut. Still, it was too short and only time could fix that.
Lesson Learned: Sherri realizes she should have spoken up the moment the stylist tugged at her curls with a fine-toothed comb.
“I should have yelled, ‘STOP!’ and left,” she says.
But she also learned it’s really just hair, and it does grow back. “It’s not the end of the world, even though it may feel like it at the time,” she says.
Silver Lining: After a few months, Sherri again went back to the salon manager for another trim in July. This time she emerged triumphant.
“I am happy with her as a stylist, but I will never let the other guy touch my hair!” Sherri says.
SALON SNAFU: Your stylist dismisses new ideas and methods
When Jennifer McKevitt of Chardon, Ohio, started reading the “Curly Girl Handbook,” she excitedly approached her stylist of nearly 10 years, suggesting they try some of the book’s cutting methods. The know-it-all stylist dismissed McKevitt, and continued to cut the way she always had, throwing in a few snarky remarks: “No one has perfect curls, especially you,” and finally, “Do I tell you how to do your job?” Ouch!
She knew the stylist was opinionated, but her strong comments were usually cushioned with humor. This time, she had gone too far, and McKevitt would not be dissuaded from trying something new. A few weeks later, she found another stylist who was trained in the method McKevitt wanted to explore. The new stylist reshaped her curls and encouraged her to grow out the canopy for better curl definition.
“She even kneeled beside me, letting me practice clipping along her part, in order to teach me how to get that much sought-after hairline volume,” McKevitt says.
Lesson Learned: After years of conceding to a squawky stylist, McKevitt now holds her ground in a stylist’s chair. She’s “absolutely clear” about what she wants and will leave (albeit, politely”> if the stylist refuses.
“I could have saved myself a lot of time and distress had I done that with my former stylist,” she says. “It was a pricey lesson, both economically and personally.”
Silver Lining: As her hair grew, and her curls grew more defined, McKevitt became happier than ever with her curly hair — and her new stylist. And when she ran into her former stylist around town? The snippety one, who supposedly had all the answers, actually had a few questions for a change: “Are you using a curling iron? Why is your hair so curly? Did you get a perm?” McKevitt offered simply, with a smile, “I went with that “Curly Girl” method I tried to tell you about.”
SALON SNAFU: You’re in a rush, and your curls pay the price
Nicole Cossman today.
Nicole Cossman usually turns to her mom, who’s a stylist, to care for her curls. But last April, Cossman found herself in a jam. She desperately needed a cut, but her mom was too busy. She decided to visit a reasonably priced chain salon instead. After all, she only needed a trim. How bad could it be? (Oh, it could be bad, real bad!”>
“The woman who cut my hair complained the entire time about the tangles, the length, how it hurt her arms, and how hard it was to cut,” says Cossman, of Tamarac, Fla. “I was horrified, and embarrassed by it. She also tried to thin out my hair, which has never been good for me.”
With her curly tendrils in tatters, Cossman was devastated, but didn’t complain to the stylist. She just never went back.
Lesson Learned: Cossman is much more cautious now when choosing a salon. She conducts research and asks a lot of questions. “I have learned a lot about caring for my hair at NaturallyCurly.com, and that’s where I get my information,” she says.
Silver Lining: After perusing the stylist reviews on NaturallyCurly.com, Cossman finally found a curl-centric stylist in her area that she likes.
“She was very easy-going and didn’t flip out when she saw all of the curls, and very thick hair, so I knew she was a patient stylist,” Cossman says.
SALON SNAFU: You ask a new stylist to duplicate a previous cut
Nina Mulder, today.
At home for her college summer break a few years ago, Nina Mulder got a great curly cut. But when she returned to school in the fall, she wanted to find a salon nearby to maintain it.
After corralling a few recommendations, she took a chance on a stylist, who Mulder says did “an acceptable job.” So, when it was time for another cut, right before graduation, she went back to the stylist. This time, though, it was for more than just a little maintenance.
“Big mistake,” says Mulder, who wanted the same “super cute” cut that she originally received from her hometown stylist. The problem? It was a style that hairdresser had “sort of made up as she went along.” (Read: impossible to duplicate!”>
“It was kind of an inverted bob with a wedge in the back,” says Mulder of Denver, Colo.. “But when my new stylist tried to give me the same cut, she didn’t really understand what I wanted.”
The result was a wedge that it resembled a buzz cut. “I told her that I thought the back was too short,” Mulder says. “She did offer to trim up the rest to blend it, but I was afraid it would look worse.”
Lesson Learned: “Just because I get a good cut from a stylist once, it doesn’t mean they’ll deliver every time,” Mulder says. “You need to be specific about what you do and don’t want EVERY time you get it cut.”
Silver Lining: While researching salons, Mulder found one that specializes in curly hair and also offered a link to NaturallyCurly.com on the salon’s website. There were positive reviews from fellow curlies, so she went for a cut in July.
“Before anything, we talked about my hair and the problems I was having, the past experiences with stylists — what styles may or may not work out for me,” Mulder says. “I now love my hair for the first time in a long time. My curly friends are jealous!”
SALON SNAFU: You try a chemical process that ends in a calamity
Laura Harris’ hair after the treatment that left her hair a frizzy mess.
Last year was an emotionally draining one for New Jersey curly girl Laura Harris. She was navigating an awful breakup with a boyfriend, and her job wasn’t any great shakes, either. She craved something to smile about, to look forward to. So when her stylist suggested what he called a “curl-reducer” chemical process that promised to zap frizz, she thought it would be the perk she needed to boost her spirits.
“Not as dramatic as a Japanese straighter, I was told it would keep the curl but just reduce the frizz,” says Harris of Maplewood, NJ, noting that the product has since been discontinued. “It did the opposite. My hair looked totally fried.”
The only option to improve it? Cut it off. Harris had to shear six inches, leaving her still-frizzy locks barely gracing her chin.
“The only thing I could do was blow it straight,” Harris said. “So my long, beautiful curls turned into a short, frizzy, uber-ugly head of hair.”
Adding hair extensions hid some of the damage that would ultimately take more than a year to recover.
“Obviously, I can’t place all the blame on my stylist,” Harris acknowledges. “I made an incredibly stupid decision.”
Lesson Learned: Many mistakes are simply epiphanies in disguise. For Harris, this dragged-out, harrowing experience led her to love her curls. “I’m also much less concerned about the stylist’s feelings and much more open about what I want,” she says.
Silver Lining: After a growing-out process that spanned a year and a half, she now embraces every textured tendril.
“I just got the extensions removed and cut off the fried hair,” Harris says. “It’s shorter than my hair has ever been in my life, but I love the way the curls look now — so shiny and healthy!”
The options seem endless. Do you shampoo or use a sulfate-free cleanser? Should your curls be cut wet or dry? Should you forego the flat iron forever? Confused yet?
There are several philosophies to consider when caring for your curls.
Rest easy — we cut through the clutter and gathered the top experts in the curly world for their bottom-line stance on cutting, cleansing and styling.
These curl experts have invested decades studying and styling curly hair. Their life’s mission revolves around curls! Although their approaches may differ, their goal is the same: creating gorgeous, healthy curls for their clients.
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CURL EXPERT: Shari Harbinger, partner of Lorraine Massey of New York’s Devachan Salon
CUT: When stylists at Devachan Salon prep for a curly cut, they know to trust their intuitive eye and their visual eye.
“You can’t really understand that if the hair is wet because you’re not seeing the hair as you wear it, in its natural form, which is dry,” says Shari Harbinger, who emphasizes that curls should be cut only when the hair is dry.
When curlies make an appointment at Devachan, they’re asked to stop shampooing their curly locks one to two weeks before their cut, although daily conditioning is recommended. When they step into the stylist’s chair, clients are required to arrive with their hair dry and in its natural state, uncombed and without any products in it at all.
“We look at the face shape, the hair, the curl type, the hydration level, and all those factors will determine where we cut, and how much we cut,” Harbinger adds.
The only tools in a Devachan curly cut are scissors and the stylist’s hands — no combs or brushes.
“Combs aren’t necessary because you’re then stretching the curl out of its natural form, which defeats the whole purpose of cutting curly hair in its natural order,” she says.
CLEANSE & CONDITION: Curly hair can’t get enough moisture, and Harbinger says sulfates in shampoos add to the dehydration of curly locks.
“The philosophy is to remove the sulfates from the product, which are the harsh, lathering and dehydrating ingredients found in 99 percent of the conventional shampoo on the market,” says Harbinger, noting DevaCurl’s product line includes No-Poo, a sulfate-free botanical cleanser. “Just by virtue of eliminating those sulfates and replacing them with botanically derived ingredients, the hair responds immediately.”
If curls are extremely dehydrated, she recommends conditioning every day. For a deeper treatment, Harbinger recommends leaving in the daily conditioner for a half hour to intensify the hydration.
“But you can cleanse every other day because our styling products have nothing synthetic in them to cause buildup or to make the hair feel dirty,” Harbinger says.
STYLE: The styling process begins the moment you’ve stepped out of the shower, Harbinger says.
“Gently tilt your head over, in an upside down position, and squeeze the excess water out of the hair with paper towels or a cotton t-shirt in an upward scrunching motion,” Harbinger says. “Regular towels cause friction and cause the cuticle of curly hair to fray and appear frizzy. They also absorb too much water out of the hair. For the best curl definition, you want to remove just enough water to release the curl of its own water weight and that’s best done by using a paper towel.”
Once you’ve applied a leave-in conditioner and/or gel, then gently bring your head and hair to an upright position and gently shake the curls.
“Wherever they lay, they shall stay,” says Harbinger, who recommends adding clips to the crown for additional lift. “Do not touch the curls when they’re drying because that can create frizz and cause the curl to lose its formation.”
As for flat irons, Harbinger views them as a “death sentence for all hair.”
“Every time you flat iron or ‘blow fry’ the hair, you’re one step further away from your curls being the best they can be,” Harbinger explains. “You’re compromising the elasticity of the curl. The curls will never be as authentic as they can be if they’re in a push-me, pull-me cycle or back and forth.”
Harbinger emphasizes that curly hair is not a trend, it’s a lifestyle.
“If we understand what we have and how to work with it, we can learn to embrace and love our curls,” she says.
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CURL EXPERT: Christo, Artistic Director of New York’s Christo Fifth Avenue Salon
CUT: Christo has always believed curly hair should be cut wet.
“Curly hair, when you cut it dry, won’t have the freedom of style,” Christo says. “You may wear your hair curly 90 percent of the time, but maybe the other 10 percent, you want to wear your hair in glamorous waves or you want to blow it straight. I think you should have that option.”
Your textured mane should only be combed (wide-tooth comb only!”> when it’s wet and then allowed to bounce back, according to Christo. “That way you can see how the curl is going to bounce, and then you cut accordingly,” he explains. “If the hair is dry, how is it going to bounce? It doesn’t.”
Since there may be many textures on one curly head, Christo may choose to texturize tresses using regular scissors, channel scissors or a double-blade razor on wavy, coarse hair.
“Some people have wavy hair on the bottom, while it’s curly on the top, so you can texturize the bottom in long angle layers, but you have to know to know what you’re doing,” Christo says. “You want the waves to lock into each other — not become bushy and frizzy.”
After the hair is cut and then dried with a diffuser, Christo may make a few touch-up snips on a dry mane, but without combing the hair or disturbing the curl.
CLEANSE & CONDITION: Christo emphasizes that life is about balance — and he applies that philosophy to curly hair. As an advocate of shampoo, Christo views sulfates in shampoo as simply one cleansing component, balanced with other nourishing ingredients, such as proteins and amino acids.
“I think your hair needs shampoo once or twice a week,” Christo says. “The reason is this: It’s not only to remove the buildup that you get from products, etc. There’s also the buildup you get from the environment, which is so dirty.”
He’s also a firm believer in deep conditioners, and recommends feeding your curls with a conditioning treatment or mask once a week — or twice a week, if you color your curls.
STYLE: To style curly locks, Christo divides the hair in four or five sections.
“If you want to make it easy, clip each section so it’s not in your way,” he says. “Then, take one section at a time, and apply the lotion or gel according to your texture. Then, run your fingers through your hair, shake it a little bit or scrunch it to get the curl to bounce back.”
If you want to smooth it with a flat iron for a different look, Christo warns curlies not to overdo it.
“Use it with balance, once in a while,” he says. “If you use the flat iron once a month it will not damage your hair, but if you use it two or three times a week, that doesn’t work.”
And if you have a daily addiction to the iron, Christo says there’s no way to avoid damaging your hair, no matter how much you condition it.
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CURL EXPERT: Jonathan Torch, Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute
CUT: Jonathan Torch studies curly hair when it’s dry to look at the direction the hair grows, but he always cuts hair when it’s wet.
“That way I can see the grouping of the curls and the way the curls bounce,” Torch says. “We look at the individual curls and choose the size of the curl. In order to make a ringlet, the hair has to rotate 2.5 times, otherwise you get wings.”
Since every curly head has more than one curl pattern, Torch recommends against traditional layers for curly hair.
“Even layers do not work in curly hair,” Torch says. “We have developed a technique called curly layers, and it’s all about creating unevenness, breaking it up.”
If you’re looking for height, volume or bounce, Torch suggests telling your stylist exactly that.
“You have to change your terminology. If you want volume, say you want volume. Don’t say you want layers because you’re going to be upset with the result,” Torch warns.
CLEANSE & CONDITION: Cleansing your curls with shampoo is an important step to maintaining healthy hair, according to Torch, whose shampoos contain sulfates, along with silk amino acids.
“We chose silk amino acids as our moisturizing protein because it has the tiniest molecule,” Torch says. “The size of the molecule is essential, because the smaller the molecule the deeper the penetration of absorption. The most important thing is getting that moisture molecule inside the hair.”
When conditioning your curls, he says it’s not as simple as “laying it on thick.”
“Just because a conditioner is thicker in consistency doesn’t make it a better-performing product,” Torch explains. “People like the heaviness because they feel it’s actually going to be doing something, but in reality, it may be only cosmetic.”
How a conditioner performs depends on its ability to penetrate and help the hair hold onto the moisture, according to Torch.
“Naturally curly hair repels moisture, so how do you condition hair that is repelling moisture? Our conditioners have pH levels of 3.5 to 4 — that’s extremely low. The lower the pH, the more you’re going to close the cuticle,” Torch says. “Our products deposit generous amounts of silk amino acids and panthenol.”
STYLE: Even if you have healthy hair and a great curly cut, you won’t truly embrace your curls until you master the styling process. The key to achieving a successful style, Torch says, is not how well you dry your hair. It’s how well you prepare your hair before it dries.
“You have to start off with tangle-free hair, and the more hair you group in an individual ringlet the looser the curls,” Torch explains. “If you want your hair off your face, you have to get it back off your face from the roots. If you can get the roots going in a certain direction then you can get successful hair. Allowing the cuticle to dry on its own will guarantee frizz-free hairstyles.”
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CURL EXPERT: Ouidad, author of CurlTalk, owner of New York’s Ouidad Salon, the Curl Education Center
CUT: Using her “Carve-and-Slice” method, Ouidad always cuts curly hair when it’s wet.
“Curly hair doesn’t dry the same, so it’s very difficult to cut it dry. You need to know the curvature of the curl in its natural state,” Ouidad says.
The Carve-and-Slice cut is a process that follows the curvature of the curl, and Ouidad says it allows the curls to puzzle into each other so they don’t expand.
“I section the pieces and shake the curls between my fingers so I can see the wave pattern and the curvature of the curl,” she explains.
CLEANSE & CONDITION: Ouidad believes shampoo (including sulfates”> is “essential” for healthy hair.
“It’s very important to shampoo twice a week and apply conditioner daily, starting about two inches from the root so you’re not blocking the pores of the scalp,” she says.
Although Ouidad warns against shampooing too frequently, she emphasizes the importance of cleansing the oils from the scalp to allow the hair follicle to breathe.
“My philosophy is to work from the inside out — not topically” Ouidad says. “The idea is to rebuild the internal layer by connecting your internal molecular layer with protein, amino acid and sulfur — that’s what my deep treatments are made of. The idea is to feed the curls by using deep treatments on a regular basis. They’re essential to have successful curly hair. Curly hair can’t live without deep treatments, it just doesn’t work.”
And don’t forget that leave-in conditioner before you start styling, she adds.
STYLE: When it comes to styling, Ouidad believes that less is more.
“The less you handle and manipulate your curl, the more successful you’ll be with your hair,” she explains.
Use only water-soluble styling products, and skip the oils, waxes and silicones that boost buildup, Ouidad says.
When applying gel or styling lotion, she follows her “shake and rake” technique, which uses your fingers to “rake” through the hair, and then “shake” the curl pattern back into place.
“Section the hair starting in the nape area and use a quarter-size of gel, rubbing the palms together,” Ouidad explains. “Separate the fingers and run them through the hair. The more hair between your fingers, the looser the curl will be. Then, hold it at the bottom and just shake it.”
To add some lift to the crown, she suggests sliding a few duckbill clips at the roots, allowing the curls to cascade down freely and dry naturally.
