Search Results: Ajia Eberhart

By Ajia Eberhart · Published January 13, 2016

When we think of our hair and the many things it needs to be prosperous, many times we overlook the smallest necessities that make the largest impact. Automatically we identify the important and most iterated necessity of them all, MOISTURE! Then follows the discussion on protective styles, cleansing, and any others that come to mind.

Are the roots of your hair follicles receiving a sufficient amount of nutrients to thrive?

What is Linolenic Acid?

Linolenic Acid is a polyunsaturated acid that comes from the Omega 6 fatty acid group. It is considered an essential fat and can be found commonly in vegetable oils such as safflower oil, soybean oil, and sunflower oil.

Why It Matters

Linolenic acid is essential for skin regeneration, hair growth, and metabolism. In order for healthy hair to grow, the scalp and internal health must be in good condition. When our body is not in a good balance our hair and scalp are usually first to suffer so the rest of our body can maintain proper function.

When We Lack Linolenic Acid…

• we’re risking having dry hair and hair loss

A deficiency of linolenic acid can lead to two nightmares that any naturalista can face: dry hair and hair loss. The dry hair is the first phase of a linolenic acid deficiency because it contributes to the overall structure of the hair follicle that helps maintain the strength of the hair.

When the bulbs at the root of the hair follicle are no longer able to receive a sufficient amount of nutrients due to lack of availability in the body, it redirects the small amounts to functions of the body that need the linolenic acid the most. But don’t worry too much, this can be fixed.

How to fix your deficiency

If you notice that you may have a linolenic acid deficiency, there a few ways to fix this problem to restore your hair and set it up for future healthy hair growth:

1. Adjust your diet. With this solution, the adjustment needs to be made in your vegetable intake. The amount of vegetables that go through the body throughout the various meals and snacks helps with the internal processing of linolenic acid. This specific fatty acid is common among many vegetables. Also, switching your cooking oil to mainly vegetable oils because the nutrients that are extracted from the vegetables, including linolenic acid, are all transferred into the oil.

2. Introduce a daily hair growth vitamin such as Viviscal, Hairfinity and The Mane Choice. These options will include a combination of essential nutrients that are good for the body overall and key nutrients for healthy hair growth.

3. Use a treatment solution that contains linolenic acid. These treatments will combat dryness of the hair. When applied to the scalp with heat for 30 to 45 minutes, the treatment has an opportunity to penetrate deeply into the follicles.

So, Does Linolenic Acid Matter?

Drumroll please… Yes! Just like we give special focus to other nutrients in our bodies, we should also pay special attention to those that aren’t always mentioned on the front labels of products.

Do you get enough Linolenic acid?

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated January 5, 2016

PHOTO COURTESY OF MEZZOCAMIN

Happy New Year! It’s a time of renewal of the mind, body, and soul. When I think of an African American woman who invigorates my mind, consciousness, and sparks my inner radical artist, I think of the boldness of the Black Arts Movement. This month, to pay homage to moment of history that reflected renewal and consciousness, the Natural Who Made History is Sonia Sanchez.

While completing her postgraduate work, Sanchez studied poetry, which fueled her future interest and success with her poetry publications.

In the racially tense region of Birmingham, Alabama, Sonia Sanchez (Wilsonia Benita Driver”> was born on September 9th, 1934. Sanchez lived a hectic childhood having been raised by several family members. In 1955, Sonia Sanchez received her Bachelor’s of Art with a concentration in Political Science. Following her undergraduate work she completed her postgraduate work at New York University. While completing her postgraduate work, Sanchez studied poetry, which fueled her future interest and success with her poetry publications.

Feminism, Motherhood, and The Nation of Islam

PHOTO COURTESY OF OKAYPLAYER

Sonia Sanchez’s early work depicts her thoughts on the connection between mother and child. Much of her poetic content was derived from her introduction into the world of motherhood when she gave birth to children of her own. Not only did Sanchez have strong and unbreakable thoughts on motherhood, she was also a feminist. In the 1970s, Sonia Sanchez joined the Nation of Islam. Sanchez’s perspective of the power of influence that the woman possessed conflicted with the beliefs and teachings of the Nation of Islam, which caused her to cut ties with the massive organization after three years of membership.

Advocating for Black Women’s Literature

After having taught in the New York City public school system for 12 years, Sanchez went on to become a college professor. In fact, Sonia Sanchez has been a professor at over eight universities and lectured at over 500 college campuses. Sanchez, alongside many African American professors, advocated for the Black studies courses to be introduced into the collegiate curriculum in California before later being introduced to eastern universities. Unbeknownst to many people, Sonia Sanchez was the first to structure and teach courses that focused on Black women and literature throughout the United States. In honor of her hard work while at Temple University, Sanchez was presented with the distinction of Presidential Fellow.

A CORE Participant in the Civil Rights Movement

PHOTO COURTESY OF SPEAK OUT NOW

Sonia Sanchez was not only influential throughout the Black Arts Movement; she was considered an active leading participant of the Civil Rights Movement. Sanchez was a member of CORE (Congress of Racial Equality”> alongside Malcolm X and many others. Her participation in multiple Civil Rights based organizations inspired many plays and books that spoke to the many endless struggles of being Black in America.

Shining a Light on Ebonics

Aside from the context of her work being influential throughout the decades, speaking to the issues of the times; Sanchez’s work was also unique from any work like it. The poetry, the plays, and many written works of Sonia Sanchez are unique because the vernacular she used reflected the language that African Americans of that time used to communicate with each other. The language she incorporated can be seen as the transformation of slave coding and the early stages of today’s Ebonics.

Sonia Sanchez’s many pieces of work and recorded speeches pioneered a long line of Black feminist writers that continue to speak their truths through the authenticity of their vernacular.

Courses about Black women and their rhetoric was an essential pillar in the development of Black studies’ courses because women as a whole are overlooked but the Black woman more than anyone is silenced by society.

Sonia, thank you for being a voice to inspire the masses.

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated December 29, 2015

Recently, Kenyan blogger Nancy Roxanne wrote an opinion piece for uReport disapproving the appearance of natural hair on black women. In it she confesses,

“First of all, natural hair is not flattering to everyone. I even dare say it is ugly. Only a handful of women actually look good with kinky hair. Still, masses of unenlightened women wake up one day and decide to rock natural hairstyles only to end up adding to the ghastly parade of natural hair disasters being flaunted around.”

PHOTOS COURTESY OF RAPID EYE — GETTY IMAGES

Dear Nancy Roxanne,

Several times over I’ve read your blog post on your belief that “natural hair is ugly”; each time that I read that post my emotions and thoughts changed. But not a change in support of your claims, I’m rather appalled to see that someone of African descent could feel such a way about a beautiful feature that makes us unique from other cultures and from one another. Among the leading point of my many issues I had with your claim and statement, this is the tip of the iceberg.

First, you’re misinformed.

You’ve synthesized a claim that straight, voluminous hair is more pleasing to the beauty standards of society. However, there are plenty of individuals that go to extreme lengths to mimic our unique textures. Our hair is so versatile and, for lack of better terms, dope that many women outside the black diaspora strive to replicate something that our DNA is blessed with. Ms. Roxanne would you find natural hair appealing if it were presented through the lens of cultural appropriation; would Kylie Jenner sporting coarse afro like hairstyle make it more appealing to you. #questionsthatneedanswers.

Secondly, the history of tolerance and acceptance for natural hair in societies that didn’t care for black people is a great deal of importance to why the natural hair movement is highly relevant.

For centuries, black people across the world have been forced and bullied into altering the integrity of their hair to make others around them feel comfortable. I know this very well, as a previous employer of mine harassed me because he voiced his preference for my long poetic justice braids while I was transitioning, instead of my natural coily afro.

In social culture and in the hair world, curly hair of every type and texture controls the market of hair products in every way possible. Sales in relaxers have dropped, and the focus is the consumer’s need to maintain essential needs for their texture. Looking at the demographical information of the world over the past decades, the number of individuals of ethnic background has started to outnumber those of mainly European ancestry. With more black women and men embracing the beauty of natural hair and loving one another for the confidence that natural hair exudes, it’s a freeing lifestyle. There’s a sense of black love that is not conforming to the Eurocentric ideologies of beauty.

Thirdly, you mentioned that natural hair is an investment of time and finances.

However, so is having relaxed hair, permed hair, short hair, or a weave. Really think about it; the time it takes to properly apply the relaxer/perm, let it set, the washing process, conditioning, and styling time is a lengthy process. Or to put it in a better perspective, the length of time spent at a hair salon for this service can take an entire day.

For women who know a thing or two about weave units, they understand that it’s impossible to just install the hair unit and leave it; there’s a high level of maintenance required. With a weave you’re not only caring for the sew-in part, you also have to nurture your hair underneath. As for the care process of natural hair the length of time varies from one naturalista to another.

Given that each head of hair is different and has varying needs, the time it takes to wash, detangle, and style natural hair varies. It’s a matter of preference of how thorough one wants to be with their wash process; I may only have a 4-step process while my cousin may have a 35-step process, in the most hypothetical scenario. Personally, I only take 15 minutes for my entire wash process and another 15 for styling; do note that my hair is past shoulder length. Once again a matter of preference, I choose to streamline my wash process because 4 hours is too long for me.

So, Ms. Nancy Roxanne…

We are both adults, and I can’t change your mind. All I can do is share a piece of mine, share knowledge, and pray that one day you’ll be able to see the uniqueness you have been blessed with. Lastly, to some degree I do not fault you for you misinformed perspectives because we all have been brought up in a society that has conditioned us black women to think a certain way about ourselves. Free your mind, sista!

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated December 16, 2015

Photo by Patrick Heagney — Getty Images

Among the many joyous occasions that come along with the holiday season, also comes the harsh realities of the seasonal change. The keywords that bring a halt to our hair joy are WINTER, COLD, and DRYNESS. For the seasoned naturalistas and those early in their journey, the extreme lack of moisture in the air not only makes our ends feel extra dry but in some cases dry air causes dandruff. But never fear, there are some DIY recipes with a variety of natural ingredients that have many benefits aiding in relief of dry, itchy, and dandruff ridden scalps.

Of the many DIY recipes that benefit to eliminate dandruff, the majority of them had one common ingredient that, apple cider vinegar. Apple cider vinegar holds a special place in the hearts and minds of naturalistas because of its multiple purposes to solve any issue.

Neem treatment

Ingredients

• ½ tbsp. Apple Cider Vinegar
• Handful of Neem Leaves
• Herbs
• 5-6 drops of Lemon juice
• 1 cup Water

Directions

Boil 1 cup of water, 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar and a handful of Neem leaves in a pan. Once the Neem leaves have slightly wilted, remove from the fire. Cool and use it as a hair rinse.

The purpose of the boiling of the neem leaves releases the nutrients held within the leaves of the herbs. As an Ayurvedic ingredient, neem works as an anti-fungal alternative to prevent the further spread of dandruff to other areas of the scalp. In combination with apple cider vinegar, the powerful effects of the neem help to purify the scalp to further prevent dandruff.

ACV + Lemon rinse

Ingredients

• ½ cup Apple Cider Vinegar
• ½ cup Lemon Juice

Directions

Mix equal quantities of lemon juice and apple cider vinegar in a bowl. Take a tbsp. of this mixture and add a cup of water and use it as a hair rinse.

In many cases, it could be said that using too many highly acidic ingredients can disrupt the balance of your hair scalp. However, using the lemon juice and apple cider vinegar combination does not disrupt the pH balance. The lemon juice acts as an anti fungal solution to lift and remove any traces of dandruff while the apple cider vinegar restores the pH balance of the hair and scalp.

Some of the other commonly used DIY solutions for the winter dandruff blues aren’t limited to the use of apple cider vinegar. There are a plethora of homemade hair masks with ingredient combinations that work to rid any scalp of dandruff.

Ayurvedic Hair Mask Method:

Ingredients

• ½ cup Henna
• ½ tsp Alma powder
• ½ tsp Shikakai powder
• 1 tsp. Organic yogurt
• 1 tsp. Olive oil
• 5-6 drops of Lime juice
• 1 tea bag (Black tea”>
• 2-3 drops Rosemary essential oil (optional”>

Directions

1. Pour hot water in a cup and add the tea bag.

2. When it cools down, take the tea bag out.

3. In a bowl mix rest of the ingredients and add the tea water.

4. Mix with a spoon until smooth.

5. Apply the paste on your scalp and hair.

6. Keep the mask on for at least an hour.

7. Wash away using a conditioner or just plain water.

This recipe contains a plethora of natural plant derived ingredients that are well known to DIY lovers that love the organic essentials. To begin with the prominent essentials of this recipe I’ll start with henna; Henna is one of the oldest plant derived ingredients used containing many benefits beside hair coloring. The composition of henna helps eliminate dandruff while lightly exfoliating the scalp.

Black tea is known as simply being a rinse. However, black tea in addition to being a rinse contains antioxidants that eliminate remaining traces of dandruff flakes. After all the scrubbing and exfoliation of the scalp to remove dandruff, the black tea also calms and soothes the sensitive skin of the scalp.

Last but not least, Alma powder; the effectiveness of alma powder can do wonders for multiple hair issues throughout the dry cold winter months. Alma powder contains vitamin C to ensure that the scalp doesn’t become too dry for dandruff to form. In addition to preventing dryness, alma powder relieves the itchy scalp that comes along as the early stages before full blown dandruff.

Some naturalistas with the winter months drawing near, have no fear for the dry air, there is a solution to any scalp issues.

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated December 9, 2015

PHOTO VIA CUT VIDEO

The world is full of beautiful people and cultures to admire.

Many times we look back to our own specific for inspiration without taking a moment to recognize the beauty of others. One of the most overlooked cultures for hair inspiration is that of Indian women. And although their hair history is strikingly similar to other cultures, the representation of Indian hairstyling continues to be unique in its own way.

Many of the prominent traditional Indian hairstyles can be viewed through the creation of sculptures and other forms of artistry.

During World Heritage Week (November 19-25″>, an exhibition of terracotta statuettes showcased women with a variety of unique hairstyles. The sculptures represented the evolution of Indian women’s beauty styles from an earlier time. Some consisted of long, heavy pulled back masses of coils, while some sported uniquely styled plaits and braids. Like other ethnic groups, these hairstyles carried meaning signifying different stages or events in an Indian woman’s life such as marriage and motherhood. It’s within cultural normalities to preserve the traditions of those before us, however, with some changes added over time.

Recently, the popularized YouTube series 100 years of Beauty had an episode of the transformative hairstyles of women in India from the 1910s until the present day. This video shows how elements of traditional hairstyles were kept alive but also fused with the fade of the decade to create a fresh, yet authentic look. The transformation of Indian hairstyles started incorporating braided crown halos in the 1920s, light waves in the 1940s and 1950s, and popular minimalist hairstyles of the 1990s. 

Like many surrounding ethnic cultures, hairstyling plays a role in many levels of identity.

The traditions of Indian hairstyling serves as symbols for specific life events, both tied to religious and social. At an early age, a young girl can pledge her hair to their deity as a commitment of worship; as a result there’s a ceremony where a bunch of young girls shave their head. This process is not just for young girls, either. Adult Indian men and women pledge their hair to their deity in exchange for answered prayers. Shaved heads are  important segments of the history of Indian hairstyles because, like the unique styles having meanings and purpose, they can carry a significant meaning regarding religion and lifestyle.

Throughout the history of Indian hairstyles it’s important to speak about the hairstyles of Indian men as well. They, too, wore a variety of hairstyles that are similar to styles we would see on young men today, such as a partially shaved head with a bun on top (the “man bun””>.

The history of Indian hairstyles is a unique and beautiful display of tradition meets edgy trends. In the near and surrounding regions, the evolution of Indian hairstyles took steps to be apart of the culture trends of the times without losing the cultural identity that was established by their ancestors.

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated November 17, 2015

The reignition of self love and natural hair within the black community has changed the dynamic of societal culture and the discussions we have surrounding it.

COURTESY OF MUSIC VILLAIN

The main focus of the natural hair movement is the black woman’s journey to disregarding European beauty standards. But oftentimes we neglect to acknowledge the black man’s position in the movement, including his journey.

The main focus of the natural hair movement has been on women. Sometimes we neglect the black man’s journey. 

Recently, Damon Young of The Root spoke about the stages of the hairvolution, reminiscing on the once popular Rakim box cut, the Allen Iverson braids, the Caesar fade, and the era of 360 waves.

Black men have transformed from complementing black women on their natural to growing their own hair out from their standard cuts.

Young acknowledged how today’s black man, young or old, is rocking his natural hair in more ways than one. Walking down the streets of our cities and boroughs, we see young black men with natural hairstyles across the spectrum. From neat to free form locs, from sky high flat tops to bleached ends, the possibility in styles are endless. And of course, the weekly edge-ups will remain for years to come.

COURTESY OF CORE MAGAZINE

Some people might look at black men who sport free-form locs (like Jaden Smith”> and ask, why would you let your hair grow that way? With the natural hair transformation of black men styles are done intentionally and with a purpose. Sometimes it’s meant to make a political statement. But whatever the reason, leaving their natural hair movement uncombed but shaped is a reaffirmation of love for their blackness, and support of the movement as a whole.

On the surface it’s easy to see the black community members that support the loving our blackness.

There is, however, a secret society of black people who have chosen to publicly not support the movement. Unfortunately, when discussions arise about black culture, society turns to these individuals for commentary. One of these public figures is Charles Barkley, who made a comment about Derrick Rose needing to “put something on his nappy hair.”

Barkley, a black bald man, fails to realize the history that African American men’s hair has had throughout the many years of slavery.

During the era of slavery, a black man’s hair was thought of as his source of strength and power. In an effort to further oppress our people, they shaved black male’s heads to eliminate that fear within themselves and the power that ties to African Americans and hair. With knowing the history behind shaving a black man’s head, it could be concluded that Charles Barkley is a powerless man within the black community.

While the highly disputed topic of culture appropriation is known relatively well, cultural imperialism is fairly unknown concept connected to discussions about blackness.

Essentially, culture imperialism is the dominant group forcing their culture preferences onto the oppressed group, which is where the origins of European beauty standards derived from.

The black man’s journey to being proud and nappy shouldn’t be discouraged by the ashamed, brainwashed members of the black community.

What we fail to realize is this:

If the black community is not willing to defend their own culture, history, and start practicing self love, then who will?

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated November 16, 2015

Throughout their journey, many naturalistas will board the “hair growth challenges” bandwagon. By hair growth challenges, I’m referring to three month long challenges that involve pills, pills, and more pills. They stock up on items like Hairfinity, The Mane Choice, or the generic Biotin complex brand. They believe biotin will be the answer to their hair growth problems. They may not realize, however, the role the common vitamin D plays in the process of strong hair growth and retention.

How Do We Get Vitamin D In Our Body?

Remember when your parents told you to go outside because it was good for your body? Even though you may not have comprehended it at the time, the sun exposure helped your body produce vitamin D.

Vitamin D is known as “the sunshine vitamin” for this reason–being in the sun is the most natural way to produce vitamin D in your body.

Besides sunbathing to obtain the amount of vitamin D our bodies need, some alternatives to receiving your daily dose are eating fatty fish like tuna, sardines, or whole eggs for the non-fish eaters.

Vitamin D Deficiency and Hair Loss

Many people understand that vitamin D is good for your skin; we also know that a healthy scalp is only one component to healthy hair. The scalp is another section of body skin, which makes vitamin D also good for the scalp. A 2010 study in the Dermatology Online Journal established that cases regarding hair loss had low vitamin D levels which disturbed the hair follicle growth cycles.

According to Dr. John Cannell, MD, having a vitamin D deficiency causes the hair follicles to become dormant, thus creating a weak basis for healthy growth. Eventually, this leads to hair loss.

It is important to have healthy skin on your scalp in order to prevent hair loss and stimulate hair growth.

A 2012 Harvard Public School of Health study suggested that vitamin D can create new hair follicles. Researchers found that vitamin D can stimulate the dormant hair follicles, leading to restoration of hair growth. Follicles that are dormant for too long begin to release the hair which results in patterned balding. It is important to keep in mind that even though if follicles are awaken hair may not grow which could mean other issues.

Hair Loss Treatment Results

Though there aren’t 100% guarantees of hair loss recovery, there are steps that can be taken to get on the right path. Some of the more common, attainable solutions are Rogaine and Propecia. A study published on Progressive Health says that patients in remission from chemotherapy were a part of a study in which they used topical gel with vitamin D which yielded positive results. The biggest contribution anyone can make to increase their vitamin D levels is creating a balanced diet and going outside on a sunny day.

The Takeaway

If you’re suffering from hair loss due to a vitamin D deficiency it’s fine to work toward increasing those levels BUT be aware of the amount of your body takes in to avoid serious health complications.

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated November 9, 2015

The current wave of popularity that surrounds natural hair hasn’t always been at a high.

Especially when it comes to socially acceptability within the black community. There have been tremendous shifts in the ways our African ancestors cared for and styled their kinky textured hair. These coveted practices have changed with the availability–or lack–of traditional products that allow for traditional healthy hair practices or styles.

Back In The Motherland

Whether it be for the increasing the laws of attraction or simply to look stylish, our African ancestors’ ways of hairstyling was as unique as their tribal culture. One common misconception of African hair is the idea that there is one type; this still happens today. Still, there were multiple hair identity types under the umbrella of ethnically classified “black hair”. Tribal-specific hairstyles were signifiers of many societal aspects, such as marital status, ethnic identity, age, religion, wealth, and community rank.

In some African tribes, women with long hair were assumed to have loose sexual morals; in others, it represented insanity.

One of the more important stories that hairstyles served as were markers for geographic location. Through its many commonalities throughout Africa, hair also carried many meanings. A prime example is the message that long, unarranged hair carried. In some tribes, it represented a woman with loose moral; in another it represented insanity. However, the upkeep of hair was not limited to just women. Men of their respective tribes were expected to keep their locs groomed despite the length of their hair.

Dehumanization through slavery

PHOTO COURTESY OF THIRSTY ROOTS

The West African tribes were those most heavily affected by slavery. Through the dehumanization process, captors would cut off their slaves’ hair and took away accessories that were significant to our ancestors’ tribal identities.

For 300 years, the focus of slavery–aside from free labor–was eliminating the attributes that made the African culture beautiful and unique. During this time, due to the denial of traditional essentials such as shea butter, the new generation of slaves adapted. They made due with household and plantation items around them such as bacon fat, kerosene, and butter to lubricate their strands.

The concept of colorism was practiced during this time which brainwashed slaves and modern day African Americans into believing the good hair bad hair craze. Willie Lynch, a slave master in the Caribbean islands, infamously stated that if slaves were separated by color at that time, they would remain separated for years to come. A result of his proclamation was the house slave and the field slave; one being of mixed race with fairer skin and “smoother” hair, while the other was of darker complexion and had kinkier hair.

For preservation of their hair during the long hot days in the field, slaves braided and tied their hair back to prevent dryness from the sun. However, not all slaves had head scarves, which is when grease was applied to the hair and scalp to prevent insects from laying eggs on their scalp.

The “Good Hair” Craze (1900s-1960s”>

PHOTO COURTESY OF SAVWAY

With the ideas that there was a specific hair quality that was socially unacceptable and being taught that the natural hair of Africans was less than, Black Americans sought out any possible way to loosen their curl pattern. The multiracial people sometimes had the ability to simply use water to slick their hair back with ease, but many didn’t have that luxury and turned to greater extremes. The hot comb was introduced as a means to help straighten hair.

Madame C.J. Walker redesigned the width of the teeth to help those with thicker strands of coarse hair. The Walker Hair System was similar to the preparatory process many naturals go through today. It included using a shampoo and pomade to soften the hair prior to applying heat.

Black consumers wanted an easier way to duplicate their straight hair everyday rather than using a hot comb every time.

PHOTO COURTESY OF HAIKU DECK

Black consumers wanted an easier way to duplicate hairstyles everyday. Men joined on the bandwagon to reinvent their hair, styling it with using the a texturizer created by George E. Johnson. It was called Ultra Wave. Following soon after was a similar product for women to create the perfect waved hairstyle or sleek lightly curled styles.

The Revolution (1970s”>

PHOTO COURTESY OF MSNBC

Prominent leaders of the Black Power Movement were strong believers that black people should be proud of their strong lineage. Angela Davis and Elaine Brown were just a couple of the many Black Panthers who wore their unaltered hair in recognition of their ancestry and defiance of Eurocentric beauty ideals. They encouraged other black people to embrace and appreciate their own natural hair, too. During this time, the afro was worn by everyone from activists to college students.

Jheri Curl Juice (1980s”>

PHOTO COURTESY OF NPR

The popularity of the afro was short lived. African Americans still wanted to wear their hair curly but in less of a traditional sense. Now they wanted to have a looser curl that remained moisturized and shiny all day long. With that came the creation of the Jheri Curl. Many people have seen the jokes about the Jheri Curl through popular 80s movies like Coming to America; according to my sources, the elders of my family, keeping the spray bottle was necessary to “keep your Jheri Curl juicy”.

Poetic Justice (1990s”>

Nothing says black hair in the 90s like waist-long box braids that Queen Janet Jackson sported in the film Poetic Justice. This iconic style, commonly used today as a protective style, is not only traditional throughout the African culture but also simplistic in its modern day culture.

A New Wave (2015″>

PICTURED: MAHOGANYCURLS

It’s easy to say that the biggest hair trend amongst the African American community is natural hair today. But there is a twist.

The revival of love for one’s natural hair is astounding. It is significant and, in some ways, is similar to how our early ancestors wore their hair. We wear our unaltered, natural texture in various unique styles. The movement has moved away from using harsh chemicals, decreasing relaxer sales by 26%. At the same time, this has forced major hair companies to manufacture products that will help with the styling a needs of natural hair of every type and texture in order to stay afloat.

Hair trends of the African American community have been adaptations to the circumstances our ancestors were forced to live under. Now is a time that African Americans control the hair market because we’re making our own demands. This is no longer a time where society is trying to impress upon us eurocentric ideas of beauty. We’re defining ourselves.

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated September 25, 2015

From time to time our natural hair and scalp need some TLC–some follicle opening detox therapy, if you will. Steam therapy is a simple at-home service that is actually becoming a popular service offered in hair salons nationwide. In the complex nature of hair care, many naturalistas may find doing DIY steam treatments can be complicated or time consuming, so they head to a trusted licensed professional to perform the job. Bonus: It’s also like a mini massage or facial, so the service is seen as necessary and relaxing to the client on the receiving end.

What is Steam Therapy?

It is the process of using moist heat to open the hair follicles and pores of the scalp to allow better absorption of moisture. Because our hair is constantly exposed to the elements and its potential for dryness and brittleness increase which leads to breakage. Steam Therapy allows for deep penetration of moisture that will help on the journey for healthy hair and growth. Natural hair is like a sunflower; if the flower does not receive water (moisture”> deep in its roots, it will not continue to grow.

Why our hair needs steam

1. Opening of the pores: Clogged pores in the scalp slow down–and eventually stop–the regrowth process. Steaming the hair and scalp on a regular basis will allow the toxins from the scalp to be released so that it can be cleansed and purified.

2. Balancing the Scalp: Along with purifying the scalp of the toxins within, steam therapy helps increase the collagen production and blood flow of the scalp. The collagen level and increased blood flow, resulting in a healthy naturally shiny scalp–not the kind of shine caused by synthetic styling products.

3. Improves Elasticity: The elasticity of curly strands is its ability to stretch without snapping and causing further breakage and damage to the strands. Steam treatments allow the hair to absorb so much moisture that the curls will be able to bend and stretch.

4. Enhances Curl Definition: Moisture infused by steam therapy into the hair strands allows the hair to clump throughout the length of the stands which enhances the curl pattern. The bonus effect of steam therapy is that it allows for less heat to be used when flat ironing hair.

5. Porosity: For naturalistas with low porosity hair steam therapy is a good way to help water vapor penetrate the strands of the hair for long lasting moisture. With the cuticle layer being opened from the steam treatment, it is easier to infuse products into the hair to maintain supple flexible strands.

Steam therapy uses moist heat to open the hair follicles and pores of the scalp to allow better absorption of moisture.

Steam therapy at home

Many professional salon tools have become available online, include salon grade hair steamers for home usage. This helps reduce the long term costs of going to salons for steam treatments. Here are some of the popular ones on the market now.

• Salon Sundry Professional Salon Hair Steamer ($109.99″>– The Sundry hair steamer is back with a 650 watt heating power supply for efficient heating of the water. A 320ounce water compartment comes built into the steamer. The stainless steel coil in the steamer helps create a relaxing therapeutic water vapor. 

• Deluxe Hair Steamer by Skin Act ($109.00″>– The Deluxe hair steamer is special several reasons beginning with its 650 watt power supply and adjustable steaming with a high low switch. This steamer comes with ventilation to control the steam level. This unique steamer comes with a built-in timer that be set for up to 60 minutes. 

• Q- Redew Hand-Held Hair Steamer ($69.95″>– The Q-Redew hair steamer is one of the most popular steamers throughout the natural community because the design of other traditional hair steamers; it is completely handheld. This hair steamer has multiple functions that go beyond simply moisturizing; the Q-Redew can help with detangling, reshaping the hair, and stretch the hair. 

The takeaway…

The results of steam therapy treatments are both long lasting and beneficial for the overall strength and development of the hair. Purchasing a salon quality hair steamer for at home use to aid deep penetration of products will reduce the costs of going to a salon for the same process.

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated September 23, 2015

PHOTO COURTESY OF SNAPGUIDE

Protective styling is a large part of what helps naturalistas achieve and maintain length. Some of the most coveted protective styles that have become popular are Marley Twists, Crochet Braids, and the timelessness and creativity of Box Braids. Unfortunately, not all of us have beautiful textured strands cascading down our backs so we turn to extensions. Having extensions to achieve length is great but what happens after our protective style is 3 to 4 weeks old.

QUESTION: Do you throw your Marley hair away or can it survive another round of styling?

The answer: Marley braiding hair can be washed and reused for multiple uses!

After emptying out our pockets to buy multiple packs of Marley braiding hair it is hard to let go of such a costly investment. And most of all we should always want to get the most use out of our purchase before its time to throw it to the wasteside. Here is how to wash Marley or Kanekalon braiding/twisting hair for fresh reusable hair.

Method #1: The Conditioner Cleanse

What you’ll need

• Conditioner
• Hot Water
• Bowl

Directions

1. Braid the marley hair in sections to prevent tangling.

2. Put hot water and conditioner in the bowl.

3. Place braiding sections into the bowl.

4. Rub the braids together to loosen oils and dirt that may be on the hair.

5. Rinse and untwist.

6. Lay flat to dry.

Method #2: Light Cleansing 

What you’ll need

• Shampoo
• Conditioner
• Bathtub or large washing area

1. Tie off bundle sections off center to ensure cleansing of the entire length of the bundle

2. Fill the bathtub up with warm water and add shampoo. *Bathtub does not need to be filled all the way*

3. Add the hair bundles in and allow them to soak for 10-15 minutes

4. Massage and lightly scrub the bundles to rid the braiding hair of oils and dirts that have attached to the hair.

*Be sure to wash bundles one at a time to prevent frustration and knotting* 

5. Once cleansed and rinsed, lay flat and apply conditioner

6. Rinse out conditioner with cold water; allow hair to air dry.

Some brands of Marley braiding hair (or any faux hair extension”> may contain preservative chemicals that are incredibly harsh for people with sensitive scalps. Because an irritable scalp is something nobody wants to go through there’s a cleansing method for that:

Method #3: Cleansing for Sensitive Scalp

What you’ll need

• Shampoo
• Conditioner
• Apple Cider Vinegar
• Bathtub or large washing area

1. Place hair in loose sectioned bundles

2. Fill the bathtub with warm water, not scalding hot water

3. Mix shampoo into water so it does not sink directly to the bottom

4. Allow the hair bundles to sit in the shampoo mixture for 10 minutes

5. Lightly scrub and massage the bundles against each other. Rinse

6. Squeeze out excess water and add conditioner. Rinse

7. Holding the hair in the middle of the bundle, rinse with warm apple cider vinegar

8. Rinse with cold water and hang to dry.

A few things to keep in mind

Always air dry

Cool it down

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated August 19, 2015

PHOTO COURTESY OF PRINCESS SHANICE

In the wonderful world of sleek and unique hairstyling, we admire the creativity of polished twists, braid-outs, perm or flexi rod sets, and flat twists alike. Whether it’s one of our favorite YouTubers or a beautiful Instagram famous naturalista, one of the first things we notice is their baby hair perfection–also known as having edges laid for the gawds.

However, the real question about baby hairs are what do they actually say about the health of our hair. Are they a sign of breakage or simply new growth?

What do baby hairs actually say about the health of our hair? Are they a sign of breakage or simply new growth?

According to New York City dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon Dr. Neil Sadick, it is difficult to spot the difference between short hairs growing in and short hairs as a result of breakage without a trained eye or microscope.

Snap, crackle, pop… breakage

Sometimes achieving beautifully sleek buns, fro hawks, and blow-outs means putting a lot of tension and heat on each strand. The end results in strands decreasing their elasticity and eventually leading to snapping and breaking. Blunt, split hairs, and hairs with white ends are immediate signs of breakage as a result of mishandling your tresses. These short damaged baby hairs are usually found in areas that suffer the most from tugging and pulling–the nape, sides, and around the crown.

New growth or breakage?

When most people talk about baby hairs they are primarily referring to the hair along our temples and side burn region. Contrary to popular belief, they also appear throughout the nape and crown. Some hair experts suggest that when sectioning the hair, small strands that appear amongst longer hairs are signs of new growth, especially in areas where breakage is less likely to occur.

The ends of new growth vary from those of broken hairs because they are tapered. This allows them to lay flat against each other and not snag like broken hairs. Sadick suggests that when placing the hair in a ponytail to make note of the length of flyaway. Dr. Sadick says long flyaways show growth of those sections. Pieces that are no longer than the base of a ponytail are a result of breakage.

Keep every part of your hair healthy

When handling your baby hairs, amongst other things, its important to remember they are more delicate than other areas of our hair. Always Keep an eye on the amount of tension and stress placed on the frontal region will allow for better damage control. Bi-weekly deep conditioning will help minimize the amount of trauma placed on hair. Always use a heat protectant when straightening or using a heat styling tool.

If you’re someone that uses hair pieces with metal parts replace them without Ouchless and metal-less hair pieces; metal pieces cause snagging and will eventually leave the ends frayed. Last but certainly not least, do not buy products that promise to fix split ends; only a good haircut can fix those.

Baby hairs are the children of our growth cycle. Nourish them to health so they’ll grow up to hair glory.

By Ajia Eberhart · Published August 17, 2015

PHOTO COURTESY OF RADIO DIARIES

Women have been game changers in many social and political aspects of history. With much doubt and little faith, historically those on the outside looking in thought women couldn’t achieve the goals they set out to accomplish. This month, our Natural Who Changed History is Shirley Chisholm, notable for breakthrough successes as an African American woman in national politics.

Beginning the journey

Shirley Chisholm’s journey to political activism began after her receiving her Bachelor of Arts from Brooklyn College and Masters of Art in elementary education from Columbia University. As the director of several nurseries and child care facilities in lower Manhattan and Brownsville, Brooklyn, NY, she became an authority figure for issues regarding child welfare and early education. Seeing that these particular issues were ignored by politicians, Chisholm involved herself in local politics to try solving these problems.

Following her years as a local political activist, Shirley Chisholm became a New York State legislator; her successes included having unemployment benefits made available to domestic workers. Her biggest program was named SEEK, Search for Education, Elevation, and Knowledge. This program sought to provide disadvantaged students with the opportunity to receive an education and take intensive remedial classes.

Activism: from local to national

In 1968, Chisholm ran for a position in Congress defeated two opponents making her the first African American woman elected to Congress. Throughout her time as Congresswoman, she was placed in committees that challenged her to work in areas she was unfamiliar with; However, while in these committees she helped establish the WIC (Women, Infants, and Children”> program to help end malnourishment of mothers and their children.

Shirley Chisholm was known for hiring an all women’s campaign staff

Shirley Chisholm was known for hiring an all women’s campaign staff; more than half of her staff were African Americans. Her goal was to empower women to be politically involved and saw that there was more discrimination for being a woman in a male field than racial discrimination.

PHOTO COURTESY OF BET

Impacting minority women’s politics

In 1971, Chisholm became a founding member of the Congressional Black Caucus and the National Women’s Political Caucus. Shirley Chisholm continued to pioneer the political atmosphere and blaze new trails. And in 1972 she placed a bid for the Democratic party Presidential nomination. Even with the national support of many Black women and the help of her sorority, Chisholm wasn’t taken seriously by her male colleagues. It is rumored that some males of congress attempted to work against her by disrupting her campaign trail. Her pursuit to run for President of the United States made her the first major-party black candidate and the first woman to run for Democratic nomination. Unfortunately, Shirley Chisholm didn’t make it past the primary elections; However, in later years she remained politically active and returned to Congress.

Her pioneering legacy continues

Shirley Chisholm may not have been able to win the Presidential election but the work she accomplished is felt and appreciated to this day. As an African American woman pursuing national political activism, she has–and continues to–inspire many young women. Her “Unbought and Unbossed” mantra inspires young girls to challenge the status quo and be the voice of change. Shirley Chisholm is a pioneer for political inspiration for minorities.

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated July 31, 2015

PHOTO: HER GIVEN HAIR

Understanding your hair texture is the most important rule in natural hair care, it is crucial to establishing a proper care routine. Still, many naturalistas are unsure of what their hair really needs.  Knowing the importance of hair texture can mean the difference between beautiful bouncy styles and dull limp hair, for example.

Are you fine, medium or coarse?

Hair texture describes the overall thickness of your individual strands of hair. The three types of hair textures are fine, medium and coarse. To determine the texture of your strands, it easiest to compare those strands to the thickness of a standard string of thread. When the hair strand is thinner than the string of thread, your hair is fine. Hair strands with the same thickness as a thread are classified as medium, and thicker than the thread are coarse, according to CurlyNikki. Keep in mind, these three textures are not specific to any specific curl pattern — someone could have Type 2b wavy hair but have coarse strands, and Type 4c coily hair can be fine.

Keep in mind, these three textures are not specific to any specific curl pattern

What is Fine Hair?

Fine hair is the most delicate of hair textures; it is fragile and can be damaged easily from over-manipulation and direct heat. Fine hair is lightweight, airy, and has a level of transparency. It tends to feel like feathery baby hairs. The appearance and structure of fine hair is caused by its lack of a medulla–because there is only a cortex and a cuticle, fine hair cannot withstand extreme styling practices and chemicals.

Some of the misconceptions about fine hair are that fine hair is unable to achieve volume and cannot maintain structured styles. Both of these are false, for someone with fine hair it’s a matter of the method they use and products they apply. Choose a regimen consisting of gentle, lightweight ingredients that will not weigh down the strands and enhance the possibility of greater volume. A regimen based on lightweight ingredients prevents the cuticle from being clogged and causing the hair to appear oily.

PHOTO: NAPPILY NIGERIAN GIRL

What is Coarse Hair?

Coarse hair is the most complex of hair textures; it is the strongest and can resist damage from styling. Coarse hair strands are heavier and don’t have the light movement of fine strands. Coarse textures appear to be full in body and feel wiry. Coarse hair contains the cortex, cuticle, and medulla, which contains the proteins that allow a higher tolerance for heat, chemicals, and hair color (bleach”>.

Coarse hair is associated with kinkier hair types, which is the origin of the misconception that coarse hair does not grow.

The texture of someone’s hair doesn’t determine their growth rate. Another misconception about coarse hair is that it’s unmanageable; this is false. The manageability of coarse hair comes from proper care and a good moisturizing routine. A regimen for coarse hair requires heavier moisturizing products such as shea, mango, cocoa, and kokum butters. Coarse hair drinks these ingredients up to soften the strands, making them less wiry and reducing the potential for breakage from dryness.

Low Porosity and Texture

While caring for fine or coarse hair, it is best to consider the role that porosity plays. Low porosity hair simply means that the cuticles of the hair strand lay flat, and is commonly found in unprocessed hair. This hair type takes extra effort to get moisture inside the shaft, however, it is difficult for moisture to leak out once it has been penetrated.

PHOTO: CHIC WITH KINKS

Low porosity hair–for both fine and coarse hair–is not product specific. Rather, the dosage of products applied matter. Low porosity hair still requires conditioners and oils, but to a smaller degree than medium or high porosity.

If you have coarse, low porosity hair…

For someone with coarse, low porosity strands, a thicker product may need to be watered down slightly so the ingredients will penetrate the strand versus just sitting on top of the hair.

If you have fine, low porosity hair…

For fine, low porosity strands, instead of watering down thicker substance using a product with a more fluid and milky consistency would allow for your strands to benefit from the ingredients. Applying the right dose of product will result in lasting hydration, flexibility, definition, and softness of the hair strands.

To sum it up

Understanding your hair texture and porosity can help ease a variety of hair issues. Caring for fine or coarse hair with low porosity is about the quantity of the products being applied. Fine and coarse hair low porosity hair cannot flourish if they are weighed down or not receiving proper moisture. Lastly, our hair cannot be great if we don’t first understand what it truly needs.

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated July 24, 2015

PHOTOS: THE CUT LIFE

An essential part of natural hair care is having regular trim sessions. that we should, with good practice, fit into our hair regimens. However, the question is how effective are these trim and cutting session we put our hair through; are the ends being cut with precision to better the condition of our hair.  There has been an item gaining popularity in the hair market commonly known and marketed as cutting lotion.

What is Cutting Lotion?

Cutting lotions come in a milky ointment or in the form of a spray. They ease the process of razors and shears against the hair and the surface of skin. Professional barbers use them to minimize the irritation caused by the friction of the blades during shape-ups. The newer cutting lotions also have been containing added ingredients to aid in the manageability and protection of hair and skin.

Cutting Lotion versus Styling Lotion

Styling lotion is commonly used to prepare our hair for a great style for the following day; in some cases it has a soft hold to eliminate the need for a gel of styling foam. Cutting lotion has the moisturizing benefits of helping with moisture retention, protection against friction with any hair tools, and allowing cutting tools to glide through strands or against the skin. The major difference between a cutting lotion and a styling lotion is that a styling lotion may temporarily mask the damage of hair making any visible hair trauma less noticeable while cutting lotion has a formulation that helps seal the cuticle layer to prevent split ends. A cutting lotion should be used regularly by those of us who get regular trims and want to keep our edges crisp.

Cutting lotions are making such a big splash in the hair market. Here are some to consider trying:

Mizani 25 Miracle Milk

This cutting lotion is loaded with many benefits from moisturizing to strengthening to professional. The miracle milk has multiple uses as a moisturizer; it works as a  leave-in conditioner, controls frizz, conditions transitioning hair, and much more. Miracle 25 also prevents damage from hair brushing. It seals the cuticle, primes hair for styling, and prevents split ends. Last but not least, the Mizani Miracle Milk is also safe on color treated hair, making blow drying easier by evening out porosity.

Blade Gilde

The Blade Glide cutting lotion comes in a silky formula that allows shears and razors to pass smoothly through the hair and against the skin. Similar to the Miracle Milk, Blade Glide also can be used as a leave-in conditioner and helps in balancing out hair porosity. This particular product has an added bonus of extending the usage of the blade. Blade Glide moisturizes the skin in the process, making it easier for the blade to pass against the skin with little irritation. For precise cuts with shears, Blade Glide keeps the hair wetter longer and helps it retain moisture during styling.

Tressa Cutting Edge Cutting Lotion

The Tressa Cutting Edge cutting lotion comes packed with many different keratin amino acids to deeply strengthen the cortex of the hair strands. The keratin and silk amino acids work together to repair cracked areas in the shaft and cuticle of the hair which helps with better sealing in the moisture of hair. Tressa Cutting Edge ensures thermal protection for heat usage, too.

Diamond Cut Cutting Lotion

The Diamond Cut Cutting Lotion helps prolong the longevity of the blades and razors while conditioning all hair types for clean cuts. This product helps control the motion of the hair and disorderly ends for a polished finish. The Diamond Cut, unlike its competitors, works to combat potential brittleness of the hair and ensures your texture and ends are smooth and free of split ends.

RedKen One United

The Redken One helps even porous hair, safe for ombre and color treated hair, and provides lightweight results. One of the unique qualities about Redken’s One United is its anti-static formula for those with a frizz halo.

To sum it up

The new popularity of cutting lotion is one to support a healthier hair movement. Healthy hair leads to longer hair and longer hair comes from proper care and length retention. Having precise cut ends will absolutely help with achieving hair goals by preventing snagging of your ends around each other. If you get regular shape-ups, a cutting lotion will take your hairstyles to the next level.

By Ajia Eberhart · Updated July 13, 2015

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

Quick styling results is something we all look for. When it is all said and done, we pray our gorgeous strands don’t suffer from heat damage; we will try any possible concoction before accepting the harsh reality of heat damage. There are many ongoing theories and discussions about correcting heat damaged strands. Understand the facts about heat damage, the falsehood of the myths, and the solutions. 

What is Heat Damage?

Heat Damage is the result of applying excessive heat from a blow dryer, flat iron, or other heat appliances at high temperatures. Our hair strands contain keratin protein which aids in the strength of each strand; when heat appliances are set too high, above 400 degrees, the keratin protein that gives strength begins to melt. Heat Damage alters the pattern and structure of the hair strands on a physical and molecular level which causes the curl to loosen and eventually become limp, straight pieces of hair.

There’s propaganda in the natural community giving women hope that heat damage is reversible.

I always say the first step to recover is acknowledging the problem; however, many believe in the dozens of home remedies that will bring their curls back to life.

• Myth: Curls that have been loosened or have become straight from heat can be revived by a protein treatments.
• Truth: Curls suffering from heat damage  cannot bounce back with the application of a protein treatment because as a result of direct continuous heat, the shaft and cortex are essentially destroyed. Once the strand is dead there’s no revival process; otherwise it would be a zombie hair strand, pun intended. A protein treatment can help with make lightly damaged curls (slightly loosened”> appear to have a little more bounce because of its restoration qualities filling in missing areas of the hair shaft. There’s no promise of complete restoration but it gives your curls a reasonable level of hope for maintaining a regular shape and structure (Essence Magazine”>.

The Recovery Process

Going forward in our hair journeys and our love for the benefits of heat application, we need to make sure we’re going into this potential battle with a plan and some knowledge.

1. Discontinue using heat: Sometimes we start out saying we’ll use heat occasionally but that’s easier said than done once you achieve perfect volume that’s giving you life thanks to your trusty diffuser. If you find yourself in a place in your hair journey where you’re using heat more than 4 times a week, regulate yourself by giving your hair a break. Look for alternatives to achieve that same volume that your diffuser gave you without the heat. Make a plan t go at least 3 months without heat application and you’ll notice a great difference in the overall health of your hair.

2. Use a Heat Protectant: If you’re absolutely against the the idea of not using heat at all in your hair regimen, using a heat protectant with some silicones. Heat protectants help lower the porosity of the hair to protect the cortex and helps reduce moisture loss from the inside of the hair shaft.

3. Increase Protein Intake: During the time that your hair is trying to revive its luxuriousness, increasing your protein intake will allow for the new growth coming in to be stronger and more resilient to damage. Not only will nourishing your body with protein from the inside help with growth but applying protein from the outside will give your curls some bounce, shine, and strength from the outside, according to Bustle.

4. Protective Styling: Styling heat damaged hair can be one of the most difficult tasks in hair history; No matter how much gel and product we put on that section of hair for a braid out, it always manages to look like oodles and noodles. Protective styling while suffering from heat damage can make the recovery process easier because it gives your hair the opportunity to be in a at ease while the damage grows out (Ebony Magazine”>. A few important things to remember while protective styling is to moisturize and nourish your hair and maintain a proper trim schedule to rid your hair of damaged ends.

5. Patience: Great things come to those who wait and miracles don’t happen overnight. Heat damage recovery could take place from six months to a year; be patient and explore new styles. And if you’re feeling extra spontaneous create your own innovative styles to match your swag.

6. Let it go: Be like Elsa! Sometimes heat damage can be so bad that waiting for it to grow out is heartbreaking because you have to look at it every time your wash your hair. The last time I went to a hairdresser she insisted on straightening my hair and when i went to wash it there were straight ends all over. I reasoned with myself that its only hair and it will grow back soon enough so I cut it myself. Realistically holding on to damaged ends doesn’t benefit anything except an ego. Holding on to damaged ends weighs down on the hair which puts strain on it while its growing; cutting away heat damaged ends will allow the hair to grow back in faster because its not carrying the dead weight of damaged hair (bustle.com“>. Make peace with yourself, your hair, and the situation and just let those heat damaged ends go.

In the end, heat damaged hair is no good; not for your hair nor yourself.

If heat is a most use to your everyday life, be wise and use protection to prevent the horrid reality of heat damaged and setting hair goals back of because of a simple mistake that could’ve been avoided. But lastly, always remember healthy hair over damaged hair.

By Ajia Eberhart · Published July 1, 2015

PICTURED: @SUNKISSALBA

There’s a plethora of curly hair advice and information for topics like moisture, texture, and density–while proteins tend to be the black sheep of natural hair conversations. Most naturals still don’t understand how crucial protein is for the strength of our tresses.

Performing regular deep protein treatments is incredibly important to aid in retaining length as well as helping with moisture levels. In between the 3-4 month gap of each deep protein treatment, the protein balance of our hair needs to be maintained in order to minimize breakage.

Most naturals still don’t understand how crucial protein is for the strength of our tresses.

Maintaining an appropriate protein level in your hair comes from a number of things such as a balanced diet and applying products containing hydrolyzed proteins. First, let’s work our way from the inside of the body, outward.

Protein from the Inside Out

When we exercise and work to build muscle, we know we should eat eggs, meats, and veggies with a high concentration of protein to build that muscle. The same protein we ingest after workouts helps form strong and sturdy hair strands that continue to grow. If our bodies lack protein, that new growth has a weak foundation, is fragile, and is much more prone to breakage. Simply applying a topical protein treatment would help but will not provide hair strands with optimal levels of protein internally that can withstand weekly manipulation from styling.

Protein from the Outside In

Over time, the hair follicle chips away, increasing the potential for breakage. This happens over time with the wear and tear of excessive styling and manipulation. Applying products that contain hydrolyzed proteins allows hair to maintain the results of the deep protein treatment for a longer time.

What are hydrolized proteins?

You may be asking yourself, “What are hydrolyzed proteins?” Hydro=water, meaning that proteins such as animal, wheat, and silk that are broken down by water infusion are small enough to penetrate the shaft of the hair. Hydrolyzed proteins are found in leave-in conditioners, styling products, and other hair care products. Choosing the right hydrolyzed protein for you is based on individual hair needs and hair preferences.

How to find the protein you need

• Keep a schedule: Performing deep penetrating protein treatments on a regular basis is much better than waiting for breakage to occur. Much more length will be retained if the issue of breakage is caught prior to it actually beginning

• Know your proteins: Try two or three products that have different proteins, i.e wheat protein, silk proteins, etcetera; examine which type of protein your hair prefers.

• Know your balance: Get an idea for how your hair feels when it’s at an appropriate protein and moisture balance. Many naturals don’t know how their hair feels in its strongest state which can cause the misleading of diagnosis of potential hair problems

• Be fearless: Don’t be afraid to incorporate salon-grade protein treatments into your regimen; a little goes a long way. They’ll provide all the nutrients and ingredients necessary to bring your hair into its best condition.

When’s the last time you did a protein treatment?