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When it comes to organic botanicals and herbs, there are many unknown oils and butters that can benefit our bodies in many ways. When it comes to our hair and reaching our individual hair goals, we listen closely to solutions that will help with healthy growth, moisture, and fighting frizz. One of the many essential oils that has recently gained popularity amongst naturalistas abroad is Ungurahua Oil.
What is Ungurahua Oil?
Scientifically known as, Oenocarpus bataua, Ungurahua Oil derives from the rainforests of Central and South America. It is commonly found between Peru, Brazil, and along the Amazonian River and is cold pressed from the seeds of the rain forest trees once the tree reaches full maturity. This essential oil is commonly used as a antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-hairfall treatment in different countries around the world.
Why Ungurahua Oil is so interesting
This specific oil has a history dating back centuries back to the indigenous peoples. Because of its many benefits to relieve hair, skin, and nail issues; the oil has proven to be versatile. For naturalistas who live in hot climates with little moisture in the air to those living in humid climates, Ungurahua will work wonders to preserve the life of their hairstyles.
How to use it
The Ungurahua Oil is very unique because it can be used in multiple ways. It can be used as an essential oil, a treatment, a pre-poo, or a finisher just to name a few. Additionally, the Ungurahua Oil can be used to as a remedy for cracking or aging skin.
- For Moisture
For naturals with chemically or color treated hair this oil helps with increasing resistance to damage from manipulation. The strength of it allows for damaged cuticle layers to be temporarily mended. In regards to dry and brittle hair, Ungurahua Oil nourishes and moisturizes the hair strands to prevent snapping of the hair strands from various sections of the hair causing uneven hair styles.
- Frizz, beware
As a treatment, Ungurahua Oil works well for scalp conditions. During the dry winter months or in the hotter regions of the southern and western states, the Ungurahua Oil works well as an all-natural anti-frizz serum.
- For the Scalp
Having a healthy scalp is one of the many keys to healthy hair success. For people experiencing scalp conditions from the most minimal to the most severe, the antioxidants and antibacterial properties of Ungurahua Oil will help balance out those issues upon consistent usage.
- For Porosity Issues
Knowing porosity distinctions is crucial to picking hair beneficial hair products. If you’re in a need of an oil that will not sit on top of your hair, Ungurahua is for you. The Ungurahua oil is lightweight; its molecular structure contains small particles that are able to penetrate the hair shaft to infuse moisture from the inside out.
Where to buy
Ungurahua oil can be purchased through various online vendors. It’s normally sold its pure form, 100% Ungurahua oil. However, it is also sold in a blended formula, which contains U oil as the base oil and other essential and carrier oils as additives.
If you’re on the market for a new multipurpose oil, Ungurahua oil is for you.
When we think of our hair and the many things it needs to be prosperous, many times we overlook the smallest necessities that make the largest impact. Automatically we identify the important and most iterated necessity of them all, MOISTURE! Then follows the discussion on protective styles, cleansing, and any others that come to mind.
Are the roots of your hair follicles receiving a sufficient amount of nutrients to thrive?
What is Linolenic Acid?
Linolenic Acid is a polyunsaturated acid that comes from the Omega 6 fatty acid group. It is considered an essential fat and can be found commonly in vegetable oils such as safflower oil, soybean oil, and sunflower oil.
Why It Matters
Linolenic acid is essential for skin regeneration, hair growth, and metabolism. In order for healthy hair to grow, the scalp and internal health must be in good condition. When our body is not in a good balance our hair and scalp are usually first to suffer so the rest of our body can maintain proper function.
When We Lack Linolenic Acid…
- we’re risking having dry hair and hair loss
A deficiency of linolenic acid can lead to two nightmares that any naturalista can face: dry hair and hair loss. The dry hair is the first phase of a linolenic acid deficiency because it contributes to the overall structure of the hair follicle that helps maintain the strength of the hair.
When the bulbs at the root of the hair follicle are no longer able to receive a sufficient amount of nutrients due to lack of availability in the body, it redirects the small amounts to functions of the body that need the linolenic acid the most. But don’t worry too much, this can be fixed.
How to fix your deficiency
If you notice that you may have a linolenic acid deficiency, there a few ways to fix this problem to restore your hair and set it up for future healthy hair growth:
1. Adjust your diet. With this solution, the adjustment needs to be made in your vegetable intake. The amount of vegetables that go through the body throughout the various meals and snacks helps with the internal processing of linolenic acid. This specific fatty acid is common among many vegetables. Also, switching your cooking oil to mainly vegetable oils because the nutrients that are extracted from the vegetables, including linolenic acid, are all transferred into the oil.
2. Introduce a daily hair growth vitamin such as Viviscal, Hairfinity and The Mane Choice. These options will include a combination of essential nutrients that are good for the body overall and key nutrients for healthy hair growth.
3. Use a treatment solution that contains linolenic acid. These treatments will combat dryness of the hair. When applied to the scalp with heat for 30 to 45 minutes, the treatment has an opportunity to penetrate deeply into the follicles.
So, Does Linolenic Acid Matter?
Drumroll please… Yes! Just like we give special focus to other nutrients in our bodies, we should also pay special attention to those that aren’t always mentioned on the front labels of products.
Do you get enough Linolenic acid?
Happy New Year! It’s a time of renewal of the mind, body, and soul. When I think of an African American woman who invigorates my mind, consciousness, and sparks my inner radical artist, I think of the boldness of the Black Arts Movement. This month, to pay homage to moment of history that reflected renewal and consciousness, the Natural Who Made History is Sonia Sanchez.
While completing her postgraduate work, Sanchez studied poetry, which fueled her future interest and success with her poetry publications.
In the racially tense region of Birmingham, Alabama, Sonia Sanchez (Wilsonia Benita Driver”> was born on September 9th, 1934. Sanchez lived a hectic childhood having been raised by several family members. In 1955, Sonia Sanchez received her Bachelor’s of Art with a concentration in Political Science. Following her undergraduate work she completed her postgraduate work at New York University. While completing her postgraduate work, Sanchez studied poetry, which fueled her future interest and success with her poetry publications.
Feminism, Motherhood, and The Nation of Islam
Sonia Sanchez’s early work depicts her thoughts on the connection between mother and child. Much of her poetic content was derived from her introduction into the world of motherhood when she gave birth to children of her own. Not only did Sanchez have strong and unbreakable thoughts on motherhood, she was also a feminist. In the 1970s, Sonia Sanchez joined the Nation of Islam. Sanchez’s perspective of the power of influence that the woman possessed conflicted with the beliefs and teachings of the Nation of Islam, which caused her to cut ties with the massive organization after three years of membership.
Advocating for Black Women’s Literature
After having taught in the New York City public school system for 12 years, Sanchez went on to become a college professor. In fact, Sonia Sanchez has been a professor at over eight universities and lectured at over 500 college campuses. Sanchez, alongside many African American professors, advocated for the Black studies courses to be introduced into the collegiate curriculum in California before later being introduced to eastern universities. Unbeknownst to many people, Sonia Sanchez was the first to structure and teach courses that focused on Black women and literature throughout the United States. In honor of her hard work while at Temple University, Sanchez was presented with the distinction of Presidential Fellow.
A CORE Participant in the Civil Rights Movement
Sonia Sanchez was not only influential throughout the Black Arts Movement; she was considered an active leading participant of the Civil Rights Movement. Sanchez was a member of CORE (Congress of Racial Equality”> alongside Malcolm X and many others. Her participation in multiple Civil Rights based organizations inspired many plays and books that spoke to the many endless struggles of being Black in America.
Shining a Light on Ebonics
Aside from the context of her work being influential throughout the decades, speaking to the issues of the times; Sanchez’s work was also unique from any work like it. The poetry, the plays, and many written works of Sonia Sanchez are unique because the vernacular she used reflected the language that African Americans of that time used to communicate with each other. The language she incorporated can be seen as the transformation of slave coding and the early stages of today’s Ebonics.
Sonia Sanchez’s many pieces of work and recorded speeches pioneered a long line of Black feminist writers that continue to speak their truths through the authenticity of their vernacular.
Courses about Black women and their rhetoric was an essential pillar in the development of Black studies’ courses because women as a whole are overlooked but the Black woman more than anyone is silenced by society.
Sonia, thank you for being a voice to inspire the masses.
Recently, Kenyan blogger Nancy Roxanne wrote an opinion piece for uReport disapproving the appearance of natural hair on black women. In it she confesses,
“First of all, natural hair is not flattering to everyone. I even dare say it is ugly. Only a handful of women actually look good with kinky hair. Still, masses of unenlightened women wake up one day and decide to rock natural hairstyles only to end up adding to the ghastly parade of natural hair disasters being flaunted around.”
Dear Nancy Roxanne,
Several times over I’ve read your blog post on your belief that “natural hair is ugly”; each time that I read that post my emotions and thoughts changed. But not a change in support of your claims, I’m rather appalled to see that someone of African descent could feel such a way about a beautiful feature that makes us unique from other cultures and from one another. Among the leading point of my many issues I had with your claim and statement, this is the tip of the iceberg.
First, you’re misinformed.
You’ve synthesized a claim that straight, voluminous hair is more pleasing to the beauty standards of society. However, there are plenty of individuals that go to extreme lengths to mimic our unique textures. Our hair is so versatile and, for lack of better terms, dope that many women outside the black diaspora strive to replicate something that our DNA is blessed with. Ms. Roxanne would you find natural hair appealing if it were presented through the lens of cultural appropriation; would Kylie Jenner sporting coarse afro like hairstyle make it more appealing to you. #questionsthatneedanswers.
Secondly, the history of tolerance and acceptance for natural hair in societies that didn’t care for black people is a great deal of importance to why the natural hair movement is highly relevant.
For centuries, black people across the world have been forced and bullied into altering the integrity of their hair to make others around them feel comfortable. I know this very well, as a previous employer of mine harassed me because he voiced his preference for my long poetic justice braids while I was transitioning, instead of my natural coily afro.
In social culture and in the hair world, curly hair of every type and texture controls the market of hair products in every way possible. Sales in relaxers have dropped, and the focus is the consumer’s need to maintain essential needs for their texture. Looking at the demographical information of the world over the past decades, the number of individuals of ethnic background has started to outnumber those of mainly European ancestry. With more black women and men embracing the beauty of natural hair and loving one another for the confidence that natural hair exudes, it’s a freeing lifestyle. There’s a sense of black love that is not conforming to the Eurocentric ideologies of beauty.
Thirdly, you mentioned that natural hair is an investment of time and finances.
However, so is having relaxed hair, permed hair, short hair, or a weave. Really think about it; the time it takes to properly apply the relaxer/perm, let it set, the washing process, conditioning, and styling time is a lengthy process. Or to put it in a better perspective, the length of time spent at a hair salon for this service can take an entire day.
For women who know a thing or two about weave units, they understand that it’s impossible to just install the hair unit and leave it; there’s a high level of maintenance required. With a weave you’re not only caring for the sew-in part, you also have to nurture your hair underneath. As for the care process of natural hair the length of time varies from one naturalista to another.
Given that each head of hair is different and has varying needs, the time it takes to wash, detangle, and style natural hair varies. It’s a matter of preference of how thorough one wants to be with their wash process; I may only have a 4-step process while my cousin may have a 35-step process, in the most hypothetical scenario. Personally, I only take 15 minutes for my entire wash process and another 15 for styling; do note that my hair is past shoulder length. Once again a matter of preference, I choose to streamline my wash process because 4 hours is too long for me.
So, Ms. Nancy Roxanne…
We are both adults, and I can’t change your mind. All I can do is share a piece of mine, share knowledge, and pray that one day you’ll be able to see the uniqueness you have been blessed with. Lastly, to some degree I do not fault you for you misinformed perspectives because we all have been brought up in a society that has conditioned us black women to think a certain way about ourselves. Free your mind, sista!
Among the many joyous occasions that come along with the holiday season, also comes the harsh realities of the seasonal change. The keywords that bring a halt to our hair joy are WINTER, COLD, and DRYNESS. For the seasoned naturalistas and those early in their journey, the extreme lack of moisture in the air not only makes our ends feel extra dry but in some cases dry air causes dandruff. But never fear, there are some DIY recipes with a variety of natural ingredients that have many benefits aiding in relief of dry, itchy, and dandruff ridden scalps.
Of the many DIY recipes that benefit to eliminate dandruff, the majority of them had one common ingredient that, apple cider vinegar. Apple cider vinegar holds a special place in the hearts and minds of naturalistas because of its multiple purposes to solve any issue.
Neem treatment
Ingredients
- ½ tbsp. Apple Cider Vinegar
- Handful of Neem Leaves
- Herbs
- 5-6 drops of Lemon juice
- 1 cup Water
Directions
Boil 1 cup of water, 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar and a handful of Neem leaves in a pan. Once the Neem leaves have slightly wilted, remove from the fire. Cool and use it as a hair rinse.
The purpose of the boiling of the neem leaves releases the nutrients held within the leaves of the herbs. As an Ayurvedic ingredient, neem works as an anti-fungal alternative to prevent the further spread of dandruff to other areas of the scalp. In combination with apple cider vinegar, the powerful effects of the neem help to purify the scalp to further prevent dandruff.
ACV + Lemon rinse
Ingredients
- ½ cup Apple Cider Vinegar
- ½ cup Lemon Juice
Directions
Mix equal quantities of lemon juice and apple cider vinegar in a bowl. Take a tbsp. of this mixture and add a cup of water and use it as a hair rinse.
In many cases, it could be said that using too many highly acidic ingredients can disrupt the balance of your hair scalp. However, using the lemon juice and apple cider vinegar combination does not disrupt the pH balance. The lemon juice acts as an anti fungal solution to lift and remove any traces of dandruff while the apple cider vinegar restores the pH balance of the hair and scalp.
Some of the other commonly used DIY solutions for the winter dandruff blues aren’t limited to the use of apple cider vinegar. There are a plethora of homemade hair masks with ingredient combinations that work to rid any scalp of dandruff.
Ayurvedic Hair Mask Method:
Ingredients
- ½ cup Henna
- ½ tsp Alma powder
- ½ tsp Shikakai powder
- 1 tsp. Organic yogurt
- 1 tsp. Olive oil
- 5-6 drops of Lime juice
- 1 tea bag (Black tea”>
- 2-3 drops Rosemary essential oil (optional”>
Directions
-
Pour hot water in a cup and add the tea bag.
-
When it cools down, take the tea bag out.
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In a bowl mix rest of the ingredients and add the tea water.
-
Mix with a spoon until smooth.
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Apply the paste on your scalp and hair.
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Keep the mask on for at least an hour.
-
Wash away using a conditioner or just plain water.
This recipe contains a plethora of natural plant derived ingredients that are well known to DIY lovers that love the organic essentials. To begin with the prominent essentials of this recipe I’ll start with henna; Henna is one of the oldest plant derived ingredients used containing many benefits beside hair coloring. The composition of henna helps eliminate dandruff while lightly exfoliating the scalp.
Black tea is known as simply being a rinse. However, black tea in addition to being a rinse contains antioxidants that eliminate remaining traces of dandruff flakes. After all the scrubbing and exfoliation of the scalp to remove dandruff, the black tea also calms and soothes the sensitive skin of the scalp.
Last but not least, Alma powder; the effectiveness of alma powder can do wonders for multiple hair issues throughout the dry cold winter months. Alma powder contains vitamin C to ensure that the scalp doesn’t become too dry for dandruff to form. In addition to preventing dryness, alma powder relieves the itchy scalp that comes along as the early stages before full blown dandruff.
Some naturalistas with the winter months drawing near, have no fear for the dry air, there is a solution to any scalp issues.
The world is full of beautiful people and cultures to admire.
Many times we look back to our own specific for inspiration without taking a moment to recognize the beauty of others. One of the most overlooked cultures for hair inspiration is that of Indian women. And although their hair history is strikingly similar to other cultures, the representation of Indian hairstyling continues to be unique in its own way.
Many of the prominent traditional Indian hairstyles can be viewed through the creation of sculptures and other forms of artistry.
During World Heritage Week (November 19-25″>, an exhibition of terracotta statuettes showcased women with a variety of unique hairstyles. The sculptures represented the evolution of Indian women’s beauty styles from an earlier time. Some consisted of long, heavy pulled back masses of coils, while some sported uniquely styled plaits and braids. Like other ethnic groups, these hairstyles carried meaning signifying different stages or events in an Indian woman’s life such as marriage and motherhood. It’s within cultural normalities to preserve the traditions of those before us, however, with some changes added over time.
Recently, the popularized YouTube series 100 years of Beauty had an episode of the transformative hairstyles of women in India from the 1910s until the present day. This video shows how elements of traditional hairstyles were kept alive but also fused with the fade of the decade to create a fresh, yet authentic look. The transformation of Indian hairstyles started incorporating braided crown halos in the 1920s, light waves in the 1940s and 1950s, and popular minimalist hairstyles of the 1990s.
Like many surrounding ethnic cultures, hairstyling plays a role in many levels of identity.
The traditions of Indian hairstyling serves as symbols for specific life events, both tied to religious and social. At an early age, a young girl can pledge her hair to their deity as a commitment of worship; as a result there’s a ceremony where a bunch of young girls shave their head. This process is not just for young girls, either. Adult Indian men and women pledge their hair to their deity in exchange for answered prayers. Shaved heads are important segments of the history of Indian hairstyles because, like the unique styles having meanings and purpose, they can carry a significant meaning regarding religion and lifestyle.
Throughout the history of Indian hairstyles it’s important to speak about the hairstyles of Indian men as well. They, too, wore a variety of hairstyles that are similar to styles we would see on young men today, such as a partially shaved head with a bun on top (the “man bun””>.
The history of Indian hairstyles is a unique and beautiful display of tradition meets edgy trends. In the near and surrounding regions, the evolution of Indian hairstyles took steps to be apart of the culture trends of the times without losing the cultural identity that was established by their ancestors.
The reignition of self love and natural hair within the black community has changed the dynamic of societal culture and the discussions we have surrounding it.
The main focus of the natural hair movement is the black woman’s journey to disregarding European beauty standards. But oftentimes we neglect to acknowledge the black man’s position in the movement, including his journey.
The main focus of the natural hair movement has been on women. Sometimes we neglect the black man’s journey.
Recently, Damon Young of The Root spoke about the stages of the hairvolution, reminiscing on the once popular Rakim box cut, the Allen Iverson braids, the Caesar fade, and the era of 360 waves.
Black men have transformed from complementing black women on their natural to growing their own hair out from their standard cuts.
Young acknowledged how today’s black man, young or old, is rocking his natural hair in more ways than one. Walking down the streets of our cities and boroughs, we see young black men with natural hairstyles across the spectrum. From neat to free form locs, from sky high flat tops to bleached ends, the possibility in styles are endless. And of course, the weekly edge-ups will remain for years to come.
Some people might look at black men who sport free-form locs (like Jaden Smith”> and ask, why would you let your hair grow that way? With the natural hair transformation of black men styles are done intentionally and with a purpose. Sometimes it’s meant to make a political statement. But whatever the reason, leaving their natural hair movement uncombed but shaped is a reaffirmation of love for their blackness, and support of the movement as a whole.
On the surface it’s easy to see the black community members that support the loving our blackness.
There is, however, a secret society of black people who have chosen to publicly not support the movement. Unfortunately, when discussions arise about black culture, society turns to these individuals for commentary. One of these public figures is Charles Barkley, who made a comment about Derrick Rose needing to “put something on his nappy hair.”
Barkley, a black bald man, fails to realize the history that African American men’s hair has had throughout the many years of slavery.
During the era of slavery, a black man’s hair was thought of as his source of strength and power. In an effort to further oppress our people, they shaved black male’s heads to eliminate that fear within themselves and the power that ties to African Americans and hair. With knowing the history behind shaving a black man’s head, it could be concluded that Charles Barkley is a powerless man within the black community.
While the highly disputed topic of culture appropriation is known relatively well, cultural imperialism is fairly unknown concept connected to discussions about blackness.
Essentially, culture imperialism is the dominant group forcing their culture preferences onto the oppressed group, which is where the origins of European beauty standards derived from.
The black man’s journey to being proud and nappy shouldn’t be discouraged by the ashamed, brainwashed members of the black community.
What we fail to realize is this:
If the black community is not willing to defend their own culture, history, and start practicing self love, then who will?
Throughout their journey, many naturalistas will board the “hair growth challenges” bandwagon. By hair growth challenges, I’m referring to three month long challenges that involve pills, pills, and more pills. They stock up on items like Hairfinity, The Mane Choice, or the generic Biotin complex brand. They believe biotin will be the answer to their hair growth problems. They may not realize, however, the role the common vitamin D plays in the process of strong hair growth and retention.
How Do We Get Vitamin D In Our Body?
Remember when your parents told you to go outside because it was good for your body? Even though you may not have comprehended it at the time, the sun exposure helped your body produce vitamin D.
Vitamin D is known as “the sunshine vitamin” for this reason–being in the sun is the most natural way to produce vitamin D in your body.
Besides sunbathing to obtain the amount of vitamin D our bodies need, some alternatives to receiving your daily dose are eating fatty fish like tuna, sardines, or whole eggs for the non-fish eaters.
Vitamin D Deficiency and Hair Loss
Many people understand that vitamin D is good for your skin; we also know that a healthy scalp is only one component to healthy hair. The scalp is another section of body skin, which makes vitamin D also good for the scalp. A 2010 study in the Dermatology Online Journal established that cases regarding hair loss had low vitamin D levels which disturbed the hair follicle growth cycles.
According to Dr. John Cannell, MD, having a vitamin D deficiency causes the hair follicles to become dormant, thus creating a weak basis for healthy growth. Eventually, this leads to hair loss.
It is important to have healthy skin on your scalp in order to prevent hair loss and stimulate hair growth.
A 2012 Harvard Public School of Health study suggested that vitamin D can create new hair follicles. Researchers found that vitamin D can stimulate the dormant hair follicles, leading to restoration of hair growth. Follicles that are dormant for too long begin to release the hair which results in patterned balding. It is important to keep in mind that even though if follicles are awaken hair may not grow which could mean other issues.
Hair Loss Treatment Results
Though there aren’t 100% guarantees of hair loss recovery, there are steps that can be taken to get on the right path. Some of the more common, attainable solutions are Rogaine and Propecia. A study published on Progressive Health says that patients in remission from chemotherapy were a part of a study in which they used topical gel with vitamin D which yielded positive results. The biggest contribution anyone can make to increase their vitamin D levels is creating a balanced diet and going outside on a sunny day.
The Takeaway
If you’re suffering from hair loss due to a vitamin D deficiency it’s fine to work toward increasing those levels BUT be aware of the amount of your body takes in to avoid serious health complications.
The current wave of popularity that surrounds natural hair hasn’t always been at a high.
Especially when it comes to socially acceptability within the black community. There have been tremendous shifts in the ways our African ancestors cared for and styled their kinky textured hair. These coveted practices have changed with the availability–or lack–of traditional products that allow for traditional healthy hair practices or styles.
Back In The Motherland
Whether it be for the increasing the laws of attraction or simply to look stylish, our African ancestors’ ways of hairstyling was as unique as their tribal culture. One common misconception of African hair is the idea that there is one type; this still happens today. Still, there were multiple hair identity types under the umbrella of ethnically classified “black hair”. Tribal-specific hairstyles were signifiers of many societal aspects, such as marital status, ethnic identity, age, religion, wealth, and community rank.
In some African tribes, women with long hair were assumed to have loose sexual morals; in others, it represented insanity.
One of the more important stories that hairstyles served as were markers for geographic location. Through its many commonalities throughout Africa, hair also carried many meanings. A prime example is the message that long, unarranged hair carried. In some tribes, it represented a woman with loose moral; in another it represented insanity. However, the upkeep of hair was not limited to just women. Men of their respective tribes were expected to keep their locs groomed despite the length of their hair.
Dehumanization through slavery
The West African tribes were those most heavily affected by slavery. Through the dehumanization process, captors would cut off their slaves’ hair and took away accessories that were significant to our ancestors’ tribal identities.
For 300 years, the focus of slavery–aside from free labor–was eliminating the attributes that made the African culture beautiful and unique. During this time, due to the denial of traditional essentials such as shea butter, the new generation of slaves adapted. They made due with household and plantation items around them such as bacon fat, kerosene, and butter to lubricate their strands.
The concept of colorism was practiced during this time which brainwashed slaves and modern day African Americans into believing the good hair bad hair craze. Willie Lynch, a slave master in the Caribbean islands, infamously stated that if slaves were separated by color at that time, they would remain separated for years to come. A result of his proclamation was the house slave and the field slave; one being of mixed race with fairer skin and “smoother” hair, while the other was of darker complexion and had kinkier hair.
For preservation of their hair during the long hot days in the field, slaves braided and tied their hair back to prevent dryness from the sun. However, not all slaves had head scarves, which is when grease was applied to the hair and scalp to prevent insects from laying eggs on their scalp.
The “Good Hair” Craze (1900s-1960s”>
With the ideas that there was a specific hair quality that was socially unacceptable and being taught that the natural hair of Africans was less than, Black Americans sought out any possible way to loosen their curl pattern. The multiracial people sometimes had the ability to simply use water to slick their hair back with ease, but many didn’t have that luxury and turned to greater extremes. The hot comb was introduced as a means to help straighten hair.
Madame C.J. Walker redesigned the width of the teeth to help those with thicker strands of coarse hair. The Walker Hair System was similar to the preparatory process many naturals go through today. It included using a shampoo and pomade to soften the hair prior to applying heat.
Black consumers wanted an easier way to duplicate their straight hair everyday rather than using a hot comb every time.
Black consumers wanted an easier way to duplicate hairstyles everyday. Men joined on the bandwagon to reinvent their hair, styling it with using the a texturizer created by George E. Johnson. It was called Ultra Wave. Following soon after was a similar product for women to create the perfect waved hairstyle or sleek lightly curled styles.
The Revolution (1970s”>
Prominent leaders of the Black Power Movement were strong believers that black people should be proud of their strong lineage. Angela Davis and Elaine Brown were just a couple of the many Black Panthers who wore their unaltered hair in recognition of their ancestry and defiance of Eurocentric beauty ideals. They encouraged other black people to embrace and appreciate their own natural hair, too. During this time, the afro was worn by everyone from activists to college students.
Jheri Curl Juice (1980s”>
The popularity of the afro was short lived. African Americans still wanted to wear their hair curly but in less of a traditional sense. Now they wanted to have a looser curl that remained moisturized and shiny all day long. With that came the creation of the Jheri Curl. Many people have seen the jokes about the Jheri Curl through popular 80s movies like Coming to America; according to my sources, the elders of my family, keeping the spray bottle was necessary to “keep your Jheri Curl juicy”.
Poetic Justice (1990s”>
Nothing says black hair in the 90s like waist-long box braids that Queen Janet Jackson sported in the film Poetic Justice. This iconic style, commonly used today as a protective style, is not only traditional throughout the African culture but also simplistic in its modern day culture.
A New Wave (2015″>
It’s easy to say that the biggest hair trend amongst the African American community is natural hair today. But there is a twist.
The revival of love for one’s natural hair is astounding. It is significant and, in some ways, is similar to how our early ancestors wore their hair. We wear our unaltered, natural texture in various unique styles. The movement has moved away from using harsh chemicals, decreasing relaxer sales by 26%. At the same time, this has forced major hair companies to manufacture products that will help with the styling a needs of natural hair of every type and texture in order to stay afloat.
Hair trends of the African American community have been adaptations to the circumstances our ancestors were forced to live under. Now is a time that African Americans control the hair market because we’re making our own demands. This is no longer a time where society is trying to impress upon us eurocentric ideas of beauty. We’re defining ourselves.
If you’re in search for a daily conditioner that has all the benefits your curls need without out breaking the bank, look no further.
[prodmod]
Alikay Naturals Cowash Me Cleansing Conditioner ($13″>
This cleansing conditioner comes as a great alternative to a dual step shampoo and conditioner routine. The Cowash Me Cleansing Conditioner is a sulfate free formula with blended jojoba and peppermint oil to soften and moisturize the hair, as well as hydrating the scalp. If you’re a fan of subtle fruit scents, this product has a slight hint of peach and berries to leave an invigorating scent throughout the hair.
SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl & Shine Conditioner ($11.99″>
The Coconut & Hibiscus conditioner is a lightweight product that caters to all hair types to restore and smooth dry hair cuticles. Coconut oil, Neem oil, and silk protein are the main ingredients that work toward taming the frizz and enhancing the natural curl pattern.
MopTop Bamboo Daily Conditioner ($11.99″>
This conditioner serves a variety of hair types on many different levels; it works for normal to dry, damaged to color treated, and wavy to kinky-coily strands. For those that suffer from frizzy and unruly hair, it restores moisture and manageability. The natural humectants and botanical ingredients penetrate the hair to allow for maximum absorption and prevent split ends.
Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Hydrating Conditioner ($12″>
The Black Vanilla Hydrating Conditioner comes packed with a rich blend of Pro Vitamin B5 and Biotin to soften and strengthen wet hair to prevent potential damage from snags. The combination of ingredients work to heal dry, dull, and brittle hair; the balance in moisture helps with detangling and ease in styling. This conditioner is light enough to use daily as a cowash.
Carol’s Daughter Tui Leave In Conditioner ($13″>
The Tui Leave In Conditioner contains an herbal blend of lavender, honeysuckle, sage, and calendula that conditions and hydrates the strands. Its tames fly aways, restores natural balance of the hair, and controls unmanageable hair. This product can be used as a daily leave-in or as a refresher mist; the tui leave in conditioner also makes for a great detangling product.
Jane Carter Solution Quench ($10″>
The Jane Carter Solution Quench works great as a daily revitalizer for curls; it hydrates and seals in moisture, reactivates and detangles curls. The soy protein and panthenol help strengthen hair and tame frizz. An added benefit of this product is its use as a heat protectant when flat ironing or blow drying.
Alikay Naturals Lemongrass Leave In Conditioner ($12.99″>
This Leave in conditioner is perfect for every hair type and texture because of its lightweight properties. The unique blend of ingredients work their way through the inner layers of the hair shaft to promote moisture from the inside out. The aloe vera and silk amino acid work as preventatives of dry damaged hair.
Paul Mitchell Super Strong Daily Conditioner ($12″>
The conditioner works on rebuilding the internal structure of the hair strands. The combination of canola, soy bean, and corn starch aid in preventing moisture loss by smoothing the cuticle to slow the evaporation of products from the hair. The Super Strong Daily Conditioner is unique in that it helps prevent the harsh damage that can be caused by UV rays while protecting the surface layer of protein.
Hydratherma Naturals Protein Balance Leave in Conditioner ($14.99″>
The balance of moisture and protein is one of the most important aspects for natural hair to flourish. This conditioner does just that by infusing the perfect balance of moisture and protein to prevent breakage. The benefits of this product are heat protection, increased flexibility, and the natural oils create a barrier to hold in the moisture and protein.
Design Essentials Natural Daily Moisturizing Lotion ($13.99″>
This leave in conditioner and moisturizer contains a blend of Jojoba, Cocoa, and Wheat Protein that will restore the bounce of dry curls and waves while controlling frizz. With continuous use the hair will be softened and have a long lasting sheen.
Camille Rose Naturals SOYlicious ($14″>
The Camille Rose Naturals Soylicious is great for enhancing the shine and body of hair. This product contains vitamins and botanical blends that promote hair growth and regeneration of the cells. The focus of this product is to improve the look and build it to its healthiest states.
Eden Bodyworks All Natural Coconut Shea Cleansing Cowash ($8.49″>
The perfect combination of Coconut oil, Shea Butter, Aloe Vera, and water in this product aid the hair in preserving the natural protein structure and protecting from future damage. The Coconut Shea Cowash is special because the ingredients are picked with the purpose of penetrating the hair shaft for improved overall health. This product is gentle enough for everyday use especially for the avid exercisers.
Darcy’s Botanicals Vanilla Delight Curl Detangling Milk ($12″>
The Curl Detangling Milk has a milky consistency; This product was created with fine and medium textured curlies in mind. It can be used as a light moisturizer or leave in conditioner.
Carol’s Daughter Hair Milk Refresher Spray ($11″>
The Hair Milk Refresher Spray is a great reactivator for already styled hair. The agave nectar and wheat protein work together to lock in moisture and control frizz. This product helps preserve your hairstyle beyond days and multiple naps.
Bain de Terre Color Preserving & Volumizing Conditioner ($13.99″>
This conditioner works to preserve highly pigmented color and increasing the volume of fine to medium textured hair 45%. The Bain de Terre conditioner can be used everyday for continuous added and lasting volume throughout the day.
Did we miss anything? What is your favorite daily conditioner under $15?
From time to time our natural hair and scalp need some TLC–some follicle opening detox therapy, if you will. Steam therapy is a simple at-home service that is actually becoming a popular service offered in hair salons nationwide. In the complex nature of hair care, many naturalistas may find doing DIY steam treatments can be complicated or time consuming, so they head to a trusted licensed professional to perform the job. Bonus: It’s also like a mini massage or facial, so the service is seen as necessary and relaxing to the client on the receiving end.
What is Steam Therapy?
It is the process of using moist heat to open the hair follicles and pores of the scalp to allow better absorption of moisture. Because our hair is constantly exposed to the elements and its potential for dryness and brittleness increase which leads to breakage. Steam Therapy allows for deep penetration of moisture that will help on the journey for healthy hair and growth. Natural hair is like a sunflower; if the flower does not receive water (moisture”> deep in its roots, it will not continue to grow.
Why our hair needs steam
1. Opening of the pores: Clogged pores in the scalp slow down–and eventually stop–the regrowth process. Steaming the hair and scalp on a regular basis will allow the toxins from the scalp to be released so that it can be cleansed and purified.
2. Balancing the Scalp: Along with purifying the scalp of the toxins within, steam therapy helps increase the collagen production and blood flow of the scalp. The collagen level and increased blood flow, resulting in a healthy naturally shiny scalp–not the kind of shine caused by synthetic styling products.
3. Improves Elasticity: The elasticity of curly strands is its ability to stretch without snapping and causing further breakage and damage to the strands. Steam treatments allow the hair to absorb so much moisture that the curls will be able to bend and stretch.
4. Enhances Curl Definition: Moisture infused by steam therapy into the hair strands allows the hair to clump throughout the length of the stands which enhances the curl pattern. The bonus effect of steam therapy is that it allows for less heat to be used when flat ironing hair.
5. Porosity: For naturalistas with low porosity hair steam therapy is a good way to help water vapor penetrate the strands of the hair for long lasting moisture. With the cuticle layer being opened from the steam treatment, it is easier to infuse products into the hair to maintain supple flexible strands.
Steam therapy uses moist heat to open the hair follicles and pores of the scalp to allow better absorption of moisture.
Steam therapy at home
Many professional salon tools have become available online, include salon grade hair steamers for home usage. This helps reduce the long term costs of going to salons for steam treatments. Here are some of the popular ones on the market now.
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Salon Sundry Professional Salon Hair Steamer ($109.99″>– The Sundry hair steamer is back with a 650 watt heating power supply for efficient heating of the water. A 320ounce water compartment comes built into the steamer. The stainless steel coil in the steamer helps create a relaxing therapeutic water vapor.
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Deluxe Hair Steamer by Skin Act ($109.00″>– The Deluxe hair steamer is special several reasons beginning with its 650 watt power supply and adjustable steaming with a high low switch. This steamer comes with ventilation to control the steam level. This unique steamer comes with a built-in timer that be set for up to 60 minutes.
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Q- Redew Hand-Held Hair Steamer ($69.95″>– The Q-Redew hair steamer is one of the most popular steamers throughout the natural community because the design of other traditional hair steamers; it is completely handheld. This hair steamer has multiple functions that go beyond simply moisturizing; the Q-Redew can help with detangling, reshaping the hair, and stretch the hair.
The takeaway…
The results of steam therapy treatments are both long lasting and beneficial for the overall strength and development of the hair. Purchasing a salon quality hair steamer for at home use to aid deep penetration of products will reduce the costs of going to a salon for the same process.
Protective styling is a large part of what helps naturalistas achieve and maintain length. Some of the most coveted protective styles that have become popular are Marley Twists, Crochet Braids, and the timelessness and creativity of Box Braids. Unfortunately, not all of us have beautiful textured strands cascading down our backs so we turn to extensions. Having extensions to achieve length is great but what happens after our protective style is 3 to 4 weeks old.
QUESTION: Do you throw your Marley hair away or can it survive another round of styling?
The answer: Marley braiding hair can be washed and reused for multiple uses!
After emptying out our pockets to buy multiple packs of Marley braiding hair it is hard to let go of such a costly investment. And most of all we should always want to get the most use out of our purchase before its time to throw it to the wasteside. Here is how to wash Marley or Kanekalon braiding/twisting hair for fresh reusable hair.
Method #1: The Conditioner Cleanse
What you’ll need
- Conditioner
- Hot Water
- Bowl
Directions
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Braid the marley hair in sections to prevent tangling.
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Put hot water and conditioner in the bowl.
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Place braiding sections into the bowl.
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Rub the braids together to loosen oils and dirt that may be on the hair.
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Rinse and untwist.
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Lay flat to dry.
Method #2: Light Cleansing
What you’ll need
- Shampoo
- Conditioner
- Bathtub or large washing area
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Tie off bundle sections off center to ensure cleansing of the entire length of the bundle
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Fill the bathtub up with warm water and add shampoo. *Bathtub does not need to be filled all the way*
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Add the hair bundles in and allow them to soak for 10-15 minutes
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Massage and lightly scrub the bundles to rid the braiding hair of oils and dirts that have attached to the hair.
*Be sure to wash bundles one at a time to prevent frustration and knotting*
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Once cleansed and rinsed, lay flat and apply conditioner
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Rinse out conditioner with cold water; allow hair to air dry.
Some brands of Marley braiding hair (or any faux hair extension”> may contain preservative chemicals that are incredibly harsh for people with sensitive scalps. Because an irritable scalp is something nobody wants to go through there’s a cleansing method for that:
Method #3: Cleansing for Sensitive Scalp
What you’ll need
- Shampoo
- Conditioner
- Apple Cider Vinegar
- Bathtub or large washing area
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Place hair in loose sectioned bundles
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Fill the bathtub with warm water, not scalding hot water
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Mix shampoo into water so it does not sink directly to the bottom
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Allow the hair bundles to sit in the shampoo mixture for 10 minutes
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Lightly scrub and massage the bundles against each other. Rinse
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Squeeze out excess water and add conditioner. Rinse
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Holding the hair in the middle of the bundle, rinse with warm apple cider vinegar
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Rinse with cold water and hang to dry.
A few things to keep in mind
Always air dry
Remember that the Marley braiding hair is a fiber similar to Kankelon hair and will melt with the use of high heat. Using a hair dryer will cause the hair to frizz tremendously and lose the texture it was meant to have.Cool it down
Remember to use cool to warm water when rinsing the braiding hair out. Just like our own hair, using hot water will cause frizz. The only difference is that the frizz on synthetic hair is hard to fix if at all possible.
In this bountiful world of natural hair, we’re tempted to revisit our heat appliances for styling greatness. We weigh the pros and cons of digging deep in our pocketbooks to invest in heat protectants considering if we’ll get the most benefits for our money. But the real question is do we really need heat protectants and are they necessary?
When heat is applied
Heat applied directly to the hair raises the cuticle layer of the hair shaft allowing heat to penetrate the strand. With the cuticle layer being exposed, heat can make its way to the cortex, causing irreversible damage. It is believed that using a small amount of heat will not cause damage. Still, the structure of the hair can suffer both physical and chemical damage without a heat protectant.
When a heat protectant is applied…
The purpose of a heat protectant is to reduce the potential of causing physical and/or chemical damage to the overall health of the hair. Heat protectants provide a balancing effect reducing the risk of thermal damage while maintaining the moisture level within the hair shaft, promote healthy texture, elasticity, and shine. Another benefit of using a heat protectant, beside maintaining a healthy mane, is its ability to improve the effectiveness of heat styling tools (Folica“>.
Choosing the right heat protectant
Deciding on a heat protectant consists of a few factors. The first is knowing the texture of your hair; coarse and fine hair strands react differently with certain heat protectants because of its density and ingredients. Secondly, choosing which type of heat protectant to purchase because they come in the form of sprays, gels, serums, and/or lotions. For example, fine strand naturals may prefer sprays because they will not weigh down the hair; coarse strand naturals may prefer oils and serums.
In a study by the University of Manchester, they concluded that using dry ingredient based heat protectants may be more beneficial water based protectants. Many protectants contain silicones and polymers which are ingredients may naturalistas stay away from but in many test they proved to work better than water based protectants.
Recommended heat protectants:
- Carol’s Daughter Hair Balm, $13
- Creme of Nature 7 in 1 Leave In Treatment
- Carol’s Daughter Smoothing Blow Dry Cream
- Silk Elements Mega Silk Heat Protection Creme
- Nexxus Heat Protexx Heat Protection Spray
- Tresemme Thermal Protective Spray
100% natural heat protectants
For the naturalists looking to rock a blow out or simply protect your hair from the harsh heat rays of the sun without the aid of silicones here are some natural and organic alternatives…
- Grapeseed Oil
- Coconut Oil
- Olive Oil
- Sunflower Oil
The Takeaway…
So do we really need heat protectants and are they necessary? The simple and direct answer is YES. We need heat protectants and they are necessary for reducing the risk of causing stringy straight pieces of hair because of failing to apply proper protection. Looking into the ingredients of heat protectants is important for knowing how they’ll react with your hair. In the end, a heat protectant applied to your hair is better than no heat protectant at all.
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Photo by @Eclectic_Vibez.
Women are often the catalysts in the advocacy of individuals that are continuously marginalized by society. Being a political representation for confined groups also meant being color blind to whom would benefit toward future legislation for equality. The women leaders for change didn’t cower in the presence of men; they looked them in the eye and handled business accordingly. This month’s Natural Who Made History is Dorothy Irene Height.
Using rejection to promote equality
Dorothy Height’s path to becoming a prominent social activist began with unchangeable hardship of being a African American woman. With her initial admittance to Barnard College in 1929, Ms. Height was rejected being told that “the quota for black students had been fulfilled.” Instead Dorothy attended New York University where she earned her Bachelor’s degree shortly after earning her Master’s degree in educational psychology. Prior to the start of her career, she focused her post graduate work at Columbia University concentrating in social work.
At the tender age of 25 years old, Dorothy became a member of the National Council of Negro Women as well as working as a case-worker full time for the New York Department of Welfare.
Her focus on equality and educational benefits did not limit its scope to a specific racial group; her fight for African American women’s equality included women as a whole. She pushed for women to become politically active, increase voter awareness, and broaden available job opportunities.
Bringing awareness through conviction
In 1944, Height joined the national staff of the YWCA. To further promote her intentions for women’s social and political leadership and educational reform, Dorothy used the helping hands of her sorority, Delta Sigma Theta Sorority Incorporated, to help advocate and expand potential programs. Through her active organizational participation and affiliations, Dorothy and her diverse sisterhood were able to be advocate for various individuals on many levels and economic statuses.
Unbeknownst to many people, Dorothy Height played a highly influential role of the Civil Rights Movement both organizationally and politically. During the peak of the 1960s Civil Rights Movement, Wednesdays in Mississippi were arranged to bring together black and white women from the North and South for open conversation on their issues. Miss Height carried herself with so much poise and conviction that American leaders were always willing to hear her advice and act upon it. During the intense debates of school separations, Height spoke with President Dwight D. Eisenhower to push for immediate national desegregation of the school system citing that it would make for a beneficial learning environment for future generations aside from its unconstitutional issues. Dorothy spoke with President Lyndon B. Johnson in regards to allowing African American women to actively participate in positions with the national government.
Dorothy Irene Height not only left behind a legacy of feminist strength and influence in the world of social activism.
She is highly recognized for her extravagant hat collection she attained throughout her lifetime. Her hard work, perseverance, and determination to make a change in society continues to inspire many young activist to be the change they want to see. And this month Ms. Height, we salute you.
In the wonderful world of sleek and unique hairstyling, we admire the creativity of polished twists, braid-outs, perm or flexi rod sets, and flat twists alike. Whether it’s one of our favorite YouTubers or a beautiful Instagram famous naturalista, one of the first things we notice is their baby hair perfection–also known as having edges laid for the gawds.
However, the real question about baby hairs are what do they actually say about the health of our hair. Are they a sign of breakage or simply new growth?
What do baby hairs actually say about the health of our hair? Are they a sign of breakage or simply new growth?
According to New York City dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon Dr. Neil Sadick, it is difficult to spot the difference between short hairs growing in and short hairs as a result of breakage without a trained eye or microscope.
Snap, crackle, pop… breakage
Sometimes achieving beautifully sleek buns, fro hawks, and blow-outs means putting a lot of tension and heat on each strand. The end results in strands decreasing their elasticity and eventually leading to snapping and breaking. Blunt, split hairs, and hairs with white ends are immediate signs of breakage as a result of mishandling your tresses. These short damaged baby hairs are usually found in areas that suffer the most from tugging and pulling–the nape, sides, and around the crown.
New growth or breakage?
When most people talk about baby hairs they are primarily referring to the hair along our temples and side burn region. Contrary to popular belief, they also appear throughout the nape and crown. Some hair experts suggest that when sectioning the hair, small strands that appear amongst longer hairs are signs of new growth, especially in areas where breakage is less likely to occur.
The ends of new growth vary from those of broken hairs because they are tapered. This allows them to lay flat against each other and not snag like broken hairs. Sadick suggests that when placing the hair in a ponytail to make note of the length of flyaway. Dr. Sadick says long flyaways show growth of those sections. Pieces that are no longer than the base of a ponytail are a result of breakage.
Keep every part of your hair healthy
When handling your baby hairs, amongst other things, its important to remember they are more delicate than other areas of our hair. Always Keep an eye on the amount of tension and stress placed on the frontal region will allow for better damage control. Bi-weekly deep conditioning will help minimize the amount of trauma placed on hair. Always use a heat protectant when straightening or using a heat styling tool.
If you’re someone that uses hair pieces with metal parts replace them without Ouchless and metal-less hair pieces; metal pieces cause snagging and will eventually leave the ends frayed. Last but certainly not least, do not buy products that promise to fix split ends; only a good haircut can fix those.
Baby hairs are the children of our growth cycle. Nourish them to health so they’ll grow up to hair glory.
Women have been game changers in many social and political aspects of history. With much doubt and little faith, historically those on the outside looking in thought women couldn’t achieve the goals they set out to accomplish. This month, our Natural Who Changed History is Shirley Chisholm, notable for breakthrough successes as an African American woman in national politics.
Beginning the journey
Shirley Chisholm’s journey to political activism began after her receiving her Bachelor of Arts from Brooklyn College and Masters of Art in elementary education from Columbia University. As the director of several nurseries and child care facilities in lower Manhattan and Brownsville, Brooklyn, NY, she became an authority figure for issues regarding child welfare and early education. Seeing that these particular issues were ignored by politicians, Chisholm involved herself in local politics to try solving these problems.
Following her years as a local political activist, Shirley Chisholm became a New York State legislator; her successes included having unemployment benefits made available to domestic workers. Her biggest program was named SEEK, Search for Education, Elevation, and Knowledge. This program sought to provide disadvantaged students with the opportunity to receive an education and take intensive remedial classes.
Activism: from local to national
In 1968, Chisholm ran for a position in Congress defeated two opponents making her the first African American woman elected to Congress. Throughout her time as Congresswoman, she was placed in committees that challenged her to work in areas she was unfamiliar with; However, while in these committees she helped establish the WIC (Women, Infants, and Children”> program to help end malnourishment of mothers and their children.
Shirley Chisholm was known for hiring an all women’s campaign staff
Shirley Chisholm was known for hiring an all women’s campaign staff; more than half of her staff were African Americans. Her goal was to empower women to be politically involved and saw that there was more discrimination for being a woman in a male field than racial discrimination.
Impacting minority women’s politics
In 1971, Chisholm became a founding member of the Congressional Black Caucus and the National Women’s Political Caucus. Shirley Chisholm continued to pioneer the political atmosphere and blaze new trails. And in 1972 she placed a bid for the Democratic party Presidential nomination. Even with the national support of many Black women and the help of her sorority, Chisholm wasn’t taken seriously by her male colleagues. It is rumored that some males of congress attempted to work against her by disrupting her campaign trail. Her pursuit to run for President of the United States made her the first major-party black candidate and the first woman to run for Democratic nomination. Unfortunately, Shirley Chisholm didn’t make it past the primary elections; However, in later years she remained politically active and returned to Congress.
Her pioneering legacy continues
Shirley Chisholm may not have been able to win the Presidential election but the work she accomplished is felt and appreciated to this day. As an African American woman pursuing national political activism, she has–and continues to–inspire many young women. Her “Unbought and Unbossed” mantra inspires young girls to challenge the status quo and be the voice of change. Shirley Chisholm is a pioneer for political inspiration for minorities.
Understanding your hair texture is the most important rule in natural hair care, it is crucial to establishing a proper care routine. Still, many naturalistas are unsure of what their hair really needs. Knowing the importance of hair texture can mean the difference between beautiful bouncy styles and dull limp hair, for example.
Are you fine, medium or coarse?
Hair texture describes the overall thickness of your individual strands of hair. The three types of hair textures are fine, medium and coarse. To determine the texture of your strands, it easiest to compare those strands to the thickness of a standard string of thread. When the hair strand is thinner than the string of thread, your hair is fine. Hair strands with the same thickness as a thread are classified as medium, and thicker than the thread are coarse, according to CurlyNikki. Keep in mind, these three textures are not specific to any specific curl pattern — someone could have Type 2b wavy hair but have coarse strands, and Type 4c coily hair can be fine.
Keep in mind, these three textures are not specific to any specific curl pattern
What is Fine Hair?
Fine hair is the most delicate of hair textures; it is fragile and can be damaged easily from over-manipulation and direct heat. Fine hair is lightweight, airy, and has a level of transparency. It tends to feel like feathery baby hairs. The appearance and structure of fine hair is caused by its lack of a medulla–because there is only a cortex and a cuticle, fine hair cannot withstand extreme styling practices and chemicals.
Some of the misconceptions about fine hair are that fine hair is unable to achieve volume and cannot maintain structured styles. Both of these are false, for someone with fine hair it’s a matter of the method they use and products they apply. Choose a regimen consisting of gentle, lightweight ingredients that will not weigh down the strands and enhance the possibility of greater volume. A regimen based on lightweight ingredients prevents the cuticle from being clogged and causing the hair to appear oily.
What is Coarse Hair?
Coarse hair is the most complex of hair textures; it is the strongest and can resist damage from styling. Coarse hair strands are heavier and don’t have the light movement of fine strands. Coarse textures appear to be full in body and feel wiry. Coarse hair contains the cortex, cuticle, and medulla, which contains the proteins that allow a higher tolerance for heat, chemicals, and hair color (bleach”>.
Coarse hair is associated with kinkier hair types, which is the origin of the misconception that coarse hair does not grow.
The texture of someone’s hair doesn’t determine their growth rate. Another misconception about coarse hair is that it’s unmanageable; this is false. The manageability of coarse hair comes from proper care and a good moisturizing routine. A regimen for coarse hair requires heavier moisturizing products such as shea, mango, cocoa, and kokum butters. Coarse hair drinks these ingredients up to soften the strands, making them less wiry and reducing the potential for breakage from dryness.
Low Porosity and Texture
While caring for fine or coarse hair, it is best to consider the role that porosity plays. Low porosity hair simply means that the cuticles of the hair strand lay flat, and is commonly found in unprocessed hair. This hair type takes extra effort to get moisture inside the shaft, however, it is difficult for moisture to leak out once it has been penetrated.
Low porosity hair–for both fine and coarse hair–is not product specific. Rather, the dosage of products applied matter. Low porosity hair still requires conditioners and oils, but to a smaller degree than medium or high porosity.
If you have coarse, low porosity hair…
For someone with coarse, low porosity strands, a thicker product may need to be watered down slightly so the ingredients will penetrate the strand versus just sitting on top of the hair.
If you have fine, low porosity hair…
For fine, low porosity strands, instead of watering down thicker substance using a product with a more fluid and milky consistency would allow for your strands to benefit from the ingredients. Applying the right dose of product will result in lasting hydration, flexibility, definition, and softness of the hair strands.
To sum it up
Understanding your hair texture and porosity can help ease a variety of hair issues. Caring for fine or coarse hair with low porosity is about the quantity of the products being applied. Fine and coarse hair low porosity hair cannot flourish if they are weighed down or not receiving proper moisture. Lastly, our hair cannot be great if we don’t first understand what it truly needs.
An essential part of natural hair care is having regular trim sessions. that we should, with good practice, fit into our hair regimens. However, the question is how effective are these trim and cutting session we put our hair through; are the ends being cut with precision to better the condition of our hair. There has been an item gaining popularity in the hair market commonly known and marketed as cutting lotion.
What is Cutting Lotion?
Cutting lotions come in a milky ointment or in the form of a spray. They ease the process of razors and shears against the hair and the surface of skin. Professional barbers use them to minimize the irritation caused by the friction of the blades during shape-ups. The newer cutting lotions also have been containing added ingredients to aid in the manageability and protection of hair and skin.
Cutting Lotion versus Styling Lotion
Styling lotion is commonly used to prepare our hair for a great style for the following day; in some cases it has a soft hold to eliminate the need for a gel of styling foam. Cutting lotion has the moisturizing benefits of helping with moisture retention, protection against friction with any hair tools, and allowing cutting tools to glide through strands or against the skin. The major difference between a cutting lotion and a styling lotion is that a styling lotion may temporarily mask the damage of hair making any visible hair trauma less noticeable while cutting lotion has a formulation that helps seal the cuticle layer to prevent split ends. A cutting lotion should be used regularly by those of us who get regular trims and want to keep our edges crisp.
Cutting lotions are making such a big splash in the hair market. Here are some to consider trying:
Mizani 25 Miracle Milk
This cutting lotion is loaded with many benefits from moisturizing to strengthening to professional. The miracle milk has multiple uses as a moisturizer; it works as a leave-in conditioner, controls frizz, conditions transitioning hair, and much more. Miracle 25 also prevents damage from hair brushing. It seals the cuticle, primes hair for styling, and prevents split ends. Last but not least, the Mizani Miracle Milk is also safe on color treated hair, making blow drying easier by evening out porosity.
Blade Gilde
The Blade Glide cutting lotion comes in a silky formula that allows shears and razors to pass smoothly through the hair and against the skin. Similar to the Miracle Milk, Blade Glide also can be used as a leave-in conditioner and helps in balancing out hair porosity. This particular product has an added bonus of extending the usage of the blade. Blade Glide moisturizes the skin in the process, making it easier for the blade to pass against the skin with little irritation. For precise cuts with shears, Blade Glide keeps the hair wetter longer and helps it retain moisture during styling.
Tressa Cutting Edge Cutting Lotion
The Tressa Cutting Edge cutting lotion comes packed with many different keratin amino acids to deeply strengthen the cortex of the hair strands. The keratin and silk amino acids work together to repair cracked areas in the shaft and cuticle of the hair which helps with better sealing in the moisture of hair. Tressa Cutting Edge ensures thermal protection for heat usage, too.
Diamond Cut Cutting Lotion
The Diamond Cut Cutting Lotion helps prolong the longevity of the blades and razors while conditioning all hair types for clean cuts. This product helps control the motion of the hair and disorderly ends for a polished finish. The Diamond Cut, unlike its competitors, works to combat potential brittleness of the hair and ensures your texture and ends are smooth and free of split ends.
RedKen One United
The Redken One helps even porous hair, safe for ombre and color treated hair, and provides lightweight results. One of the unique qualities about Redken’s One United is its anti-static formula for those with a frizz halo.
To sum it up
The new popularity of cutting lotion is one to support a healthier hair movement. Healthy hair leads to longer hair and longer hair comes from proper care and length retention. Having precise cut ends will absolutely help with achieving hair goals by preventing snagging of your ends around each other. If you get regular shape-ups, a cutting lotion will take your hairstyles to the next level.
