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For hair that is coarse by nature, moisture is key. This is because coarse hair has a tendency to lose moisture easily. The curls and the coils of this hair type make it difficult for your hair’s natural conditioner, sebum, to absorb and seal in moisture. These deeply moisturizing products will give you ultimate hydration.
Alikay Naturals Moisture Rich Parfait
This product is a favorite of kinky hair naturalistas for its ability to enhance shine, manageability. Its creamy base filled with shea butter, coconut oil, and argan oil are light enough to penetrate the shaft and moisturize throughout the hair shaft.
TGIN Butter Cream Daily Moisturizer
This creamy moisturizer is enriched with all the right ingredients, such as shea butter, cocoa butter, and vitamin E to improve manageability and hydrate dry kinks and coils.
African Pride Shea Butter Miracle Silky Hair Moisturizer
The Shea Butter Silky Hair Moisturizer works great for those with mixed textures. This product is also great for transitioners restoring bounce and shine while eliminating dryness. One of the most praised benefits is its ability to elongate kinks and curls and taming frizz.
Creme of Nature 100% Argan Oil
The Creme of Nature 100% Argan Oil is not only good for hair but also for healthy skin. We know the condition of our scalp helps yield healthy hair results. This product is great for soothing dry, damaged, and split ends. The nutrient rich Argan Oil helps retain moisture, renew, and rejuvenate the hair and scalp.
Aphogee Balancing Moisturizer
This Moisturizer is made with a special collagen, emollient, and herbal complex known as Pro Phytamine to help protect against humidity and potential damage of processed hair. With the extreme importance of moisture and protein balance, this product is also essential after the use of the Aphogee Two Step Protein Treatment.
Miss Jessie’s Leave In Condish
The Leave In Condish is the ultimate moisturizer and frizz fighter. It’s lightweight consistency leaves hair full of bouncy shiny curls with no leftover residue. Last but not least, this product is also a styling prep product to take your styles to the next level of fabulous.
Carol’s Daughter Hair Milk Leave-In Moisturizer
This product has a unique combination of shea butter and soy bean oil to eliminate dry frizzy curls and strengthen them at the same time. The agave nectar helps to increase moisture retention for long lasting frizz free styles.
Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Smoothie
The Black Vanilla smoothie’s mixture of butters and oils are great for taming frizz and detangling. Sunflower see oil, Olive oil, Rapa seed oil, and shea butter are the source of its intense conditioning results. This product is coined as the “smooth operator” of deep conditioners.
Ouidad Climate Control Defrizzing Conditioner
This defrizzing conditioner has a brand exclusive Humidity Shield Complex which combines a blend of moisturizers that create a barrier throughout the hair shaft to protect against heat, humidity, and potential environmental damage. The amino acid bonds are infused into the strands leaving curls soft with maximum frizz control and color protection.
CURLS Lavish Curls Moisturizer
This Moisturizer is great reactivator for those naturals that seek to revitalize their 2nd day twist out for extra shine and bounce as well as those that want to refresh their wash n go without having to rewash their hair.
SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner
This product has multiple uses as a conditioner, leave in conditioner, and styling prep base. It’s a combination of Shea Butter, essential oils, and avocado oil to moisturize deep in the shaft and smoothing the cuticle on the outside for flawless styling. For Coarse hair, this product is great for enhancing elasticity.
Ouidad Curl Quencher Moisturizing Conditioner
Filled with botanical ingredients and vitamins, this conditioner will leave the driest and most brittle hair completely moisturized. This product even detangles making hair more manageable which will help repair damage from excessive chemical and heat styling.
Oyin Handmade Honey Wash
The Oyin Handmade Honey wash is a head to toe cleanser; it is a shampoo, conditioner, toner for both hair and skin. With aloe vera, jojoba oil, and walnut seed oil, this sulfate free shampoo leaves hair fully moisturized from root to tip.
CURLS Cashmere Curls Leave-In
This cream based moisturizing leave-in will de-frizz and define strands leaving a soft curl without the stiff hold. With all natural and organic ingredients, this product works well when layering with other products.
Aunt Jackie’s Curls & Coils Flaxseed Recipes Fix My Hair Intensive Repair Conditioning Masque
This blend of flaxseed, avocado, and coconut oils was formulated specifically to soften and condition hair that feels dry and brittle. It can be used as a rinse-out conditioner or left on for 10 minutes with a shower cap or hooded dryer for an extra-intensive repair treatment.
Check out: 24 Best Products For Type 4 Natural Hair
This article was originally published in 2015 and has been updated due to discontinued products.
In today’s obsessive culture of social media interaction, we constantly look to the latest hair trends from the neo hairdressers of the world. But sometimes we forget to pay homage to the innovators of the hair care industry that set the ball in motion for the basics we utilize to this day. These three Black women set the standard not only in the hair care industry, but as model examples of true entrepreneurship.
Annie Malone
The Beauty School Pioneer
From early childhood, Annie Malone found herself interested with the creativity of hairdressing; she frequently practiced on her older sisters during her downtime. During the decades following the Civil War, old remedies that African Americans had been using on their hair were deemed unsafe and not beneficial to growth. These items included bacon grease, soap, heavy oils, and even goose fat, which severely damaged hair and the scalp. Alongside having an interest in hairdressing, Annie Malone was also interested in chemistry. When fusing these two passions together, Malone was inspired to start working on her own hair care line to benefit every African American woman.
After moving to Illinois in the early 1900s, Malone began selling her self-manufactured hair care products door to door. They were different from previous home hair straightening remedies because they didn’t negatively affect the coarse kinky texture of Black hair. Her line was called The Wonderful Hair Grower and included a safe straightener, special oils, and a hair stimulant containing the carrier-and-essential oil cocktail naturals use today. Malone performed one-on-one treatments with her products to prove results to the consumer, what we call live demos today.
After seeing the massive impact her haircare line had on African American women, Annie Malone wanted to share the techniques of Black hair care with her community. In the early 20th century she opened Poro College, an institute that taught African American women the science of cosmetics. Malone’s instruction produced 75,000 jobs. One of her first students was Sarah Breedlove, better known to our community as Madame C.J. Walker. The success of Poro College became a model example for African Americans to create their own image of beauty in a society that tried to control them.
Madame C.J. Walker
The Madame of Black Hair Product Manufacturing
Sarah Breedlove, also known as Madame C.J. Walker, came to the world of African American hair care through her brothers who were all barbers. Experiencing the harsh realities of being a Black woman with no real source of safe hair care products for kinky hair–having fallen victim to severe scalp burns, baldness, extreme dandruff, and dryness–Walker decided it was time for a change. On her road to success, she started her journey working as a sales agent for Annie Malone. Working closely with such an entrepreneur allowed Walker to gain ample knowledge, eventually inspiring a hair care line of her own.
Madame C.J. Walker recognized that there were plenty of people of African ancestry scattered around the world, which was reason for her to expand her brand. First, she commissioned interested women to sell products from The Walker System door-to-door. Then, Walker and other saleswomen demonstrated proper and effective ways to groom their hair. When The Walker System became fully developed, she began to expand her business to various retailers throughout the U.S.. The Walker System’s expansion presented itself in beauty salons that focused solely in the Black audience. Today there’s a new line of products introduced to the natural hair community inspired by the legacy of Madame CJ Walker.
The Madame C.J. Walker brand developed products which served multiple purposes in hair styling, including a hair pomade. was used to stimulate hair growth when applied directly to the scalp, protect against strenuous brushing, and heat damage when using ironing combs. The process that Madame C.J. Walker created with The Walker System became the originator of the process we use today for safe hair straightening practices.
Christina Jenkins
The Original “Hair Weave Killer”
Women have long used plenty of methods to give the illusion of longer hair. Still, many only benefited those with straight or wavy strands, and Black women didn’t have many resources to help them achieve the same temporary long hair results. In the mid 1900s, wigs were one of the popular methods for a dramatic change in hairstyle, texture, length, or color without any of the damage.
A Louisiana-based hairdresser by the name of Christina Jenkins was researching ways to secure a wig to the hair and scalp while working for a wig manufacturer. This expertise was used to her advantage–Jenkins created a new technique the hair weaving process; the purpose was to create hairstyles that lasted longer and for women to add any desired thickness. Jenkins ability to secure hairpieces safely and securely without damaging the hair afforded her the opportunity to travel abroad to teach others. In 1951, Christina Jenkins received a patent for her hair sew-in weaving technique. Today the business of making and selling weave is a worldwide sensation–we see literally thousands of mass and independent weave retailers selling various grades of quality from different countries around the world.
According to Nielsen, African-Americans currently hold a buying power of $1 trillion, a number that’s estimated to reach $1.3 trillion by 2017. And they’re blowing a lot of those bills on cosmetics, spending nine times more on ethnic-targeted beauty and grooming products than the general market. Black women, in particular, spend an estimated $7.5 billion annually on beauty products, shelling out 80% more on cosmetics and twice as much on skin care as their non-Black counterparts. Yet, they’ve been grossly underserved by the cosmetics industry throughout history.
The Black hair care industry wouldn’t be what it is today without these trailblazers paving the way. We wouldn’t have come this far along in the grand world of hair care if these tremendous gains weren’t achieved so many years ago. Let’s take a minute to pay homage to these amazing women that have given us a platform from which to elevate.
Throughout the centuries and decades that follow, hair plays a significant and symbolic role in the lives of many women. It’s our pride and glory, an extension of our beauty, and sometimes our most prized possession. Any occasion that results in traumatic hair loss is heart wrenching especially for women that have gone through cancer and other terminal disease treatments requiring chemotherapy.
Chemotherapy: the treatment that changes it all
Chemotherapy is a cancer preventative treatment that works to stop the growth of cancerous cells and prevent further division and spread of such cells throughout the body. In the process of discontinuing growth of cancer cells, healthy growing cells such as those that promote hair growth are stopped as well leading to the loss of hair from the scalp and face. The other most common side effects of chemotherapy are loss of taste buds and physical tiredness. All areas affected by chemotherapy return to normal about six to ten months after treatments are done. After the battle is won, the most exciting phase is for the re-growth of the hair and of course normal taste buds because who does not like to eat. In this phase there are many steps and helpful tips that will guide you into this revitalization of your life.
Changes in your hair
Chemo curls & changes in hair
In many cases, the curl pattern that you have once had may change in its overall thickness, density, and texture. For example, someone with fine and low density strands may potentially have thicker and coarser hair post-treatment. The structure of the hair follicles is altered creating a wider diameter of the actual follicle causing the curls to grow in a tightly coiled manner. Women who did not have curls before may experience curly regrowth.
New natural color
Yes, you may experience a new natural hair color without any chemicals. Because the follicles and inner chemistry of your body are highly altered between chemotherapy and radiation, for those that go through both, in many cases patients come out with a varied color of their original hair color. For example, some women with dark brown hair return with a lighter brown or those with highly pigmented red undertones may have even more exaggerated and bolder definition with the red pigment throughout their strands.
Changes in your regimen
A new regimen for chemotherapy regrowth
The regrowth of hair after chemotherapy represents a new beginning and an opportunity for better hair care practices. Take this opportunity to fully listen to your hair’s specific needs. It is the best time to push the old bad habits and harsh hair products to the waste and start with a new arsenal of products and care methods.
Nourish from the inside out
Since those taste buds are coming back to normal, now is a great time to incorporate some hair healthy foods into your regular meals. Some of the best tasting and important ones would be eggs and beans for protein which creates the strength in the hair strands. Green vegetables help in the production of natural oils from the scalp as well as salmon for vitamin B-12. And most importantly make a habit of keeping your body hydrated.
Create a safe space
For every positive role model and supporter, there are two people that have negative commentary and thoughts on all that you do. Stressful environments eventually lead to hair loss and poor health conditions. Put those people to the waste side with all the bad habits and horrible hair products. Create a positive and uplifting environment and support system that will encourage you to reach your goals whether they be fitness, hair, or personal. Free yourself of the negativity.
Patience is key
The hardest part of any task and goal anyone wants to accomplish, patience. It takes time for a good thing to turn into something great besides diamonds aren’t made over night. Hair will not grow from once inch to waist length over night. Time, dedication, love, and patience are all you’ll need.
In the end, you are a strong individual for making it through such a traumatic, lengthy, and tiring process. And there’s no doubt that you’ll be able to reach your goals going further. You are woman and forever feminine with or without long hair.
This information is not intended to replace advice from a medical professional. Everyone’s case is different; chemotherapy affects people in different ways. Please seek professional help for advice specific to you.
This article has been updated.
In celebration of World Afro Day, September 15, we are lifting up the history of an artifact, global icon, and cultural treasure: the afro pik. According to Michelle De Leon, Founder of World Afro Day, “World Afro Day is a global day of change, education and celebration of Afro hair; endorsed by the UN Office of the High Commissioner for Human rights. We work with families, schools and authorities to tackle discrimination against Afro hair.”
The naturalistas and curly heads of the world are well versed in the many tools that help them take their hairstyles to new heights.
The two most common amongst these nifty gadgets are the afro pik and the wide tooth comb; however, the most notable and most historic is the afro pik. Contrary to belief, the afro pik is not a signifier of the current revitalization of the natural hair movement. According to The Guardian, the legacy of the afro pik dates back thousands of years to colorful culture represented in mother Africa. To fully understand the complex lifespan of the afro pik, we need to look to the past to understand its current representation.
Ancient Africa
Back in the times of Ancient Africa, within the Northern and Western regions, the afro pik (comb”> carried a different meaning and purpose than it currently does today. In Northern Egypt, when women held the title of pharaoh, the afro comb was used as a decorative hair dress made of gold. The significance of the comb was to show nobility; its markings depicted familial history. Because many Northern African women around Egypt and Morocco wore sleek styles, braids, or wigs over braids (protective styles”> the afro combs were status accessories.
In Northern Egypt, when women held the title of pharaoh, the afro comb was used as a decorative hair dress made of gold.
Moving down to Western Africa, the afro comb remained a symbol of decoration amongst the tribes. The Northern and Western regions were different in that afro combs were not a specialty to the nobility; the young girls and women in the western tribes made their own handcrafted afro combs and regularly exchanged them as gifts. The combs of the western regions were done with various creative handles, shapes, and structures; these combs represented uniqueness and vibrancy of the culture and the tribes.
The New Era: 1960-1980s
Moving forward into the era of the Black Panther Party and the Civil Rights Movement, the afro comb (pik”> took on a very different representation and voice from its ancient origins. The 1960s-1980s was an era of rejecting European standards of beauty and reclaiming African roots; a time of saying no to the creamy crack and yes to berries and juices…yes, that was a corny Coming to America pun.
During the early 1970s, the afro pik was patented with the addition of 13 different styles that were sold throughout the country. The new era of the afro pik represented revolution; to African Americans it was a change of positivity and acceptance of African origins and traditions. The afro pik that once was a continuous flowing piece of work was now a dual piece with metal prongs for combs and plastic for the handle.
The traditional creative sculpting of the afro pik became the symbol Black Power fist that signified the conscious change in the social and political atmosphere.
Among many of the moving pieces of the time that represented the shift in identity, the symbolism of the black power fist on the afro pik never disappeared throughout the later decades.
The Present: 1980’s-Today
As the natural hair movement continued to grow the afro pik survived the transformation from an ancient gift to a signifier of socio-political change and currently to a tool for sculpting frotastic perfection. Many naturalistas, women and men alike, use the afro pik to take their hair to new heights; bring more dimension and zeal to their hair style of choice.
It is a piece of all black culture that has never been denied, rejected, nor dismissed amongst its people throughout its Diasporas.
The afro pik is a fragment of the global black culture that, in a way elevates and unifies the spirit of the ancient and current culture.
In today’s society the afro pik is an everlasting artifact, a global icon, and cultural treasure. An artifact in its charted existence of the ancient African society; a global icon because it is known that many combs and figures similar to the afro pik/comb are derived from ancient Africa.
In years to come the afro pik will transform into a fixture that elevates the creativity and femininity into one like the young girls of the ancient African tribal units.
This article has been updated.
The healthy hair care journey can sometimes be a tedious task. At times we search high and low to find the perfect remedy to repair or prevent damage. Many times, the answer is in the information we can’t easily find in our YouTube binge watching sessions. However, for those of us that let our inner scientist reign supreme, we’ve learned that protein is a core necessity for healthy hair.
Protein treatments sometimes get misused, causing other issues–such as severe breakage. It’s time to answer the most frequently asked questions about protein treatments.
First of all, do you need a protein treatment? It depends on the protein-moisture balance of your hair. If you’re unsure, here are 3 telltale signs you need a protein treatment you can look out for. And if you’re still not sure if your hair needs protein, consult a haircare professional before having a protein treatment done.
1. Can I do a protein treatment at home or should I go to the salon?
In this day and age of using YouTube videos to teach us anything and everything, we’ve become DIY experts in life, especially with hair care. However, as much as we want to do things on our own to save money, we have come to the realization that there are some things we should leave to the professionals. Though protein treatments may seem easy peasy to do at home, if you are new to the protein treatment game it is highly recommended that they are performed at a salon.
High-end protein treatments contain natural combinations that harden the hair. They are considered to be safe to use under the supervision of hair professionals who know how to properly handle them when they are applied to the hair.
Natural hair has to dry a certain way and be handled delicately; many testimonials can be found with individuals that handled their hair too roughly with the treatment in which led them to experience more damage.
2. How often should you do a protein treatment?
This question tends to go under heavy scrutiny because many naturalistas have a different answer based on the condition of their unique head of hair. To eliminate all confusion, protein treatments–especially deep treatments–should be done every 4 to 6 weeks.
Protein treatments should be applied so sparingly for a couple of reasons, the first being that applying protein treatments too often can lead to protein overload causing breakage throughout the hair.
Secondly, according to professionals from ApHogee, using deep protein treatments more than once every 4 to 6 weeks may not provide any further benefit. Some hair care professionals may suggest getting a protein treatment every three months, about the same length of time in between regular trims.
3. What do you do after a protein treatment?
When dealing with protein and its application to hair, it is important to know about the rules that govern the protein-moisture balance of your hair. It is a highly interdependent relationship; the hair cannot be of great quality if one component is off-kilter.
How Protein-Moisture Balance Affects Breakage
Under the same conditions, hair that is deficit of protein results in breakage and hair that is deficit in moisture also leads to breakage. Additionally, hair that is overloaded with protein can result in breakage from stiffness; hair with too much moisture will break from lack of structural support.
When applying a deep protein treatment, you must be sure to apply a deep moisturizing product after. Brands like Aphogee come have a two-step protein treatment that has a deep rinse out moisturizer as the last step. Naturalistas who do not favor silicones of any kind may opt for a moisturizing deep conditioner to protect the hair from undesirable side effects of using them.
For many years, the reception of the arts has been classified into separate categories reserved for two very distinct racial communities: The high art and the black art. High art was for those of the upper class but never included the art and expressionism of black artists. African American dancers and choreographers, as artists, display trials and tribulations through the arts.
The dedication to keep the mission and purpose of black arts alive continues to be an uphill battle.
Judith Jamison continued determination to keep the stories of African Americans alive through the expressionism of dance. She was born in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania to a family of highly talented parents and siblings. She was exposed to the world and culture of the arts at a young age through her parents love for music.
As a result of Jamison’s budding interest for the arts, her parents registered her for her first dance classes with Marion Cuyjet, whose teaching technique was so intensive that she had Jamison training in pointe shoes by the age of eight.
In later years, Judith Jamison traveled throughout the local area of Philadelphia to other dance schools to learn new techniques and dance methodologies that she would use in her career as a performer and teacher. She was amazed by the many teachers she encountered whom previously had successful careers in New York and returned to their hometown to impart their knowledge on the next generation of dancers.
After her time at Fisk University, Judith Jamison was invited to New York to perform in the American Ballet Theatre in a piece known as The Four Marys. In the six months after her debut performance, Jamison was without a job and continued to look for the next step on her path to her developing career. She attended an audition by renowned choreographer Donald McKayle having felt that she performed poorly and failed miserably; however, her audition landed her a position with the Alvin Ailey Dance Theater.
Art directing through the diaspora
Within 13 years of performing with the Alvin Ailey Dance Theater, Jamison was offered the opportunity to learn more about her African heritage and learned over 70 ballet pieces. Judith Jamison’s most known performance with the Ailey company was her sixteen minute long solo titled Cry which expressed the everlasting strength of black women.
Throughout her career, she toured around the world experiencing various African diaspora communities. Her experiences and exchanges with other black women and their life stories ultimately prepared her for the position of Artistic Associate in 1988. Upon the death of one her many mentors, Alvin Ailey, she assumed the position of Artistic Director for the next 21 years.
Mentorship to other dance greats
Judith Jamison has paved the way for many rising young black dancers of her time like Debbie Allen and have helped create a platform of acceptability for dancers like Misty Copeland and young dancers of today. Her determination to for excellence has driven the creativity of the Alvin Ailey Theater to new levels and continues to inspire.
Without her continuous success in the world of dance and arts, it would potentially be more difficult for young black dancers to be seen as capable of achieving at the level at which Jamison has. Once a barrier has been broken, it can be done multiple times.
“Cutting off my dreadlocks didn’t make me an instantly “good white person” or even a trustworthy ally, but it sure as hell dismantled some of the barriers that stood in the way of cultivating deep, meaningful relationships based on mutual respect, trust and solidarity.”
Living in the world today is a melting pot of many cultures being meshed and blended, which in turn creates hybrid trends. And although there is a continuous blending, there are some cultural practices that hold high significance to particular sub-cultures and religions–like Rastafarian and East Indian–and their connection to dreadlocks. A large part of this historical misunderstanding is where cultural appropriation comes into play.
Writer and musician Annah Anti-Pallindrome spoke to me about her experience as a white woman in America with dreadlocks, from her evolution to her decision to cut them off.
What daily life was like as a white woman with dreads
Annah spoke about the empowerment she felt, as well as not being pre-classified as the member of a gang or another socially excluded group. In fact, she was still considered an ’employable member of society’. Supervisors of her workplace often put her in places of authority over co-workers of color that may have more experience and education in their profession.
As a feminist, Annah believed her dreadlocks sent a message defying the standards on physical appearance that patriarchy had established for women of society. Her perspective on the rejection aligns closely with the old teaching of East Indian spiritual leaders; to reject the seduction of vanity. However, at the time Annah had no idea of the concept of cultural appropriation.
Becoming aware of the stigma behind wearing dreadlocks in America?
It took a collection of reading material and article suggestions from close friends for Annah to understand the implications of her choice. She specifically learned that the way members of society viewed her as a woman with dreadlocks was not the same lens that black people were viewed through. “I learned that black folks in the US with dreadlocks are not seen as quirky or alternative but as dangerous and militant.” Reading through various articles and blog posts led Annah to an understanding that white people spent centuries taking whatever they desired, including cultural customs that were interesting at that particular time.
Above all, her biggest takeaway was that the standards applied to her were not granted to people of color. Wearing dreadlocks as a white woman portrayed nonverbal claims of superiority, such as “Your legacies of cultural resistance are so irrelevant that they’ve become nothing more than a fashion accessory to help me evade the expectations of white womanhood!”
Annah said that cutting off her dreadlocks was a form of accountability for the message she was unaware she was sending and its historical legacy of racial violence.
“Cutting off my dreadlocks didn’t make me an instantly ‘good white person’ or even a trustworthy ally, but it sure as hell dismantled some of the barriers that stood in the way of cultivating deep, meaningful relationships based on mutual respect, trust and solidarity,” says Annah. She holds the belief that the fight against societal preference toward another group can be accomplished without carrying on the legacy of disrespect that has lingered on through generations.
Oftentimes, people take on a style they perceive as ‘trendy’ without having the proper knowledge of its origin.
It may be done with the intentions of being a trendsetter; however, educating oneself on the history of a specific ethnic trend can relieve the social and racial tension. This is not to say that everyone should be a walking history book of popular trends, but that we should be considerate of how our imitation of a cultural trend may be viewed from the originator’s perspective.
Is ‘Becky’ highly metaphorical or can we put a specific image to the name?
The Queen Beyoncé, herself, has once again blessed our entire world with some greatness to keep us warm at night.
And with all the glory and musicality she has laid on us comes a great mound of controversy. In the song “Sorry” Bey drops the lyric
“He only wants me when I’m not there / He better call Becky with the good hair.”
On the surface, it appears to be a harmless phrase to a catchy song; however, many women have taken offense to the image portrayal of Becky. But a few important questions and layers remain when referring to this that need answers.
Who is “Becky with the good hair”?
Becky is simply referencing the other woman outside of a supposedly monogamous relationship; a highly metaphorical name with specific characteristics or identifiers to put an image to the name. However, some people are offended–perhaps because they believe the image represents their own identity.
On one hand, we have Caucasian women who have taken high offense to this statement. On another hand, we have Afro-American women of lighter complexion claiming the title. But we need to break it down even further.
Why are people offended?
In 2016, the descriptor Becky is not making her first appearance. Along with my prior familiarity of this phrase, elders in my family educated me on the fact it was used in the ’80s as well. For some millennials, that is too far back for this generation to identify with. Instead, we can reference rapper Plies’ vision of what Becky actually looks like (per his 2000’s hit song, Becky“>. He created an image so vivid that many Caucasian women jumped for joy to identify with it.
Fast-forward to 2016 when Beyoncé uses the same phrase with a not so positive connotation and all of a sudden it’s become a “racial slur” but bears no signs of racially specific claims.
Why is the title being claimed?
Over the course of time, there has been this trend trying to diminish other women of the tribe or community by titling oneself as “the baddest.” For those that do not understand this terminology, it simply means a claim to possessing highly superficial physical qualities that are desired by potential mates. Some women of Afro-American descent are taking on the claim of Becky with the good hair with lighter complexion for a few reasons.
Historically, there has been a divide of light versus dark skin, which originates from the Willie Lynch Theory.
In a time when the lines of color separation within one community seem to be diminishing, some individuals start to recreate them by defining what Becky with the good hair potentially looks like, given whom Queen B’s husband is and his life prior to his marriage.
The physical qualities that are currently being assigned to this title are light skin, curvy body, and curly hair that is never kinky or “nappy.” This assignment of qualities, in actuality, is false. DNA defines what our traits will be and not every woman in that small window of complexion can possess each one.
So, should some people be offended?
The answer is simple, NO. Sorry does many things but the two things it doesn’t do is condemn or slander Caucasian women nor does it paint a vivid image of what Becky with the good hair should look like. It’s neither a racial slur nor a means to separate the strong union that black women have been working to build over the last three decades.
Photos courtesy of HBO – “Lemonade” by Beyoncé
The immense options and versatility in natural hair are things to fall in love with.
” src=”https://diana-cdn.naturallycurly.com/Articles/w5_pjimage-181.jpg”>With natural hair, we are able to switch from one style to the next in a matter of days. The most noticeable of them all is getting to change your hair color. But we have to be careful as sometimes what we believe is the safest option available may actually not be. Not paying attention to the ingredients in our hair color can potentially cause harm to our delicate strands. The frequent salon goers may have heard their stylist suggest permanent hair color and toner–here we’ll explain the difference, as told to us by colorist Stephany Faison.
Permanent
This method of changing hair color is a drastic chemical process. Faison explained that the original pigment that exists within the hair strand. “With permanent hair color, the chemicals in the product lift the hair cuticles of the hair shaft, replacing the pre-existing pigment with new color particles. This essentially exchanges one shade of pigment for the other.”
Toner
“Toners are less harsh on the hair for a few reasons,” Faison says. “They only coat the hair strands instead of penetrating the hair shaft.” Because of this, a toner is more likely to fade away quickly. Due to the high risk of bleeding with each wash and sweat, it is better to use color-safe products to preserve the life and prevent brassiness.
They only coat the hair strands instead of penetrating the hair shaft.
Maintaining the integrity of curls when handling chemical based coloring systems
Faison has frequently colored my hair for the last 5 years and we have had these conversations on hair maintenance each time I felt like dyeing my hair. Like any natural, I don’t want to go through having had a fabulous color change but risk it for looser, damaged curls. For me, the preferred method of hair coloring choice has been based on how dry my hair would feel. I have determined that the best choice to maintain curl integrity is with toners and semi permanent hair color.
Faison explained to me the reasons behind toners being preferred–to maintain curl integrity. “For permanent hair color, Once the shaft has been lifted for the new color to go penetrate the shaft the cuticles are never the same especially on virgin hair.” She mentioned how the cuticles never lay the same allowing moisture to stay in. The matter can get even worse for naturals that frequently use permanent hair color. To avoid severely damaging the cuticle, colorist suggests toners. Faison also reiterated, “toners latch on to the hair shaft but slowly disappear over time which causes more frequent hair coloring processes.”
In the grand scheme of the hair-coloring world…
What you choose depends on a few factors: the risk that you’re willing to take to achieve the color results you desire, the longevity of the color that you want, and how your hair reacts to certain chemicals.
When we put protective styles in our hair, the goal is that our hair grows in a highly undisturbed manner.
The idea of protective styling is to protect our ends from breakage. However, we may forget to nourish two of the most important areas of the hair growth process–the scalp and the length of our hair. It can be a guessing game figuring out which products will work best and most effectively in nourishing the hair underneath our extensions. I’ve done some field tests on my own head of braids and have found the best brands to nourish the hair underneath.
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Carol’s Daughter Mimosa Hair Honey Collection
During one of my many trips down the beautiful hair isle of Target, I stumbled across these new additions and then I braided my hair to give them a try. The mimosa flower plays an integral role in alleviating side effects of having extensions; after having box braids installed, I’ve used the traditional mimosa hair honey to soothe my scalp of tension and moisturize.
The product line consists of three new items that address each step of caring for the hair during a protective style. Calming Tension Spray worked great for the initial first week of braids, lessening the discomfort of tightness from having the braids put in.
After having put different oils and other moisturizing products on my hair, the Scalp Treatment worked great on removing product buildup. Usually when my hair has product build up with extensions, I follow with a shampoo. With this scalp treatment, it was not necessary.
For a full conditioning of my scalp and the hair in between my braids the Conditioning Mist not only moisturized my scalp but also gave all of my hair a healthy shine. It conditioned both my natural and synthetic extensions evenly without leaving an overly greasy appearance.
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Girl+Hair Under Hair Care
Sensitive scalps can experience irritation from friction with synthetic extensions. The cleanser and leave-in conditioner both include tea tree oil, neem oil, and chamomile oil to minimize itchiness and potential flaking from exposure to free radicals in the atmosphere.
After cleansing and conditioning the scalp, the restoring balm can be used for the purposes of moisturizing the scalp and protecting dry, damaged hair from breakage caused by friction.
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Alikay Naturals
Weaved into the amazingness of this product line are some hidden gems that provide much support for irritation and tension caused by thigh protective styles. Some of the great ingredients included into these products are tea tree oil, aloe vera juice, and sweet almond oil.
The Moisturizing Black Soap Shampoo penetrates deep into the scalp and hair to remove product buildup from continuous moisturizing. The tea tree oil acts as an anti bacterial and stimulant for growth. The combination of butters and oils play a role in moisturizing the hair at the base of the scalp and strands intertwined between extensions.
The lemongrass leave in conditioning spray contains lemongrass and aloe vera juice to alleviate stress on the hair’ primarily stress caused from heavy tension like that of having box braids. When using the Black Soap Shampoo followed by the conditioning spray, the calmed the tension allowing the braids to have a more fluid movement at the base of each braid.
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Next Level Concepts
I loved many things about this product line. Some of which were the benefits that I noticed when using these products for the last two summers on my hair.
The first product was the high beam elixir. This product contains ingredients that act as sun filters to prevent sun damage. It created a weightless barrier around my real strands and hair follicles allowing my hair to grow at its full potential. It also gave my braids an even amount of shine from root to tip without buildup.
The second product was the 4-ounce fluid. Its recommended use is for a hot oil treatment for the hair scalp to infuse moisture deep into the strands. It works great for improving circulation with its peppermint oil infusion.
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Nubian Nature
This product line is simple in its composition but powerful in its results. The key ingredients to its nourishing qualities while for under extensions are palmarosa oil and soybean oil. Both penetrate deeply into the strands and scalp while helping to produce natural oils in the hair. When I tried out the Hair Essence there was a noticeable difference in the section of my scalp that tends to flake more than usual.
The Mango-Citrus Nourish Crème is another key component of this line because it protects against many environmental causes. This crème creates a barrier between the hair and harsh weather conditions; it protected the intertwined sections of my braids and scalp against the frigid cold from moisture loss. This product would work great in the warmer months as well from the harsh effects of the sun.
To sum it up
Sometimes out of sight out of mind is a good proverb to live by–but when we protective style, the hair underneath our extensions still exists. It may be out of sight but must still be treated with love and care.
Pictured: @chocolateme in Big Chop Hair Extensions
Your natural hair develops a mind of its own; it goes through phases of loving products and then rejecting them like a 4-year-old with veggies.
At some phase of the natural hair journey, product junky(ism”> is par for the course of being a full-time natural. However, suffering from product junky(ism”> can be a helpful and harmful situation for your hair. You might be thinking why?
How being a product junky helps
First, it’s an opportunity to explore new products. Sometimes we walk through our natural hair journey committed to one and only one brand of products. Being a product junky is an opportunity to explore new things that will work for your hair, especially when cocktailing. It also allows you find products that may take your hair to the next level, such as a gel-like product for extra hold or a conditioner with an exceptional amount of slip.
Tales from a self-proclaimed product junky…
Based on the number of bottles in my closet, I may be considered a product junky. From my own experience of going natural five times over, cocktailing different products has never benefited the health of my hair. Going through the process of trying different combinations to achieve the perfect twist out, braid out, or flexi rod set can leave damage in the strands of the hair. Because so many different products have anywhere from one to six different ingredients, they may not work well with what your hair likes. Those ingredients may also not blend well with your favorite conditioner. The fact of the matter is that products that are not formulated to blend well can leave trauma on the hair.
During one of many times, I was blindly buying products simply because I saw that my favorite YouTuber at the time had tried them. I thought, I must have all these products! After many weeks of using them in various capacities, I noticed that my hair was different in the sense that it no longer had the light reflective, bouncy, coily appearance that it once had.
After spending a great amount of time thinking of solutions, I found myself trying to solve the problem with more products that promised to add more shine, moisture, and balance to my hair for added health. However, the plot thickened; my problem became far worse to the degree of excessive breakage. After realizing nothing was working, a good friend of mine said these simplistic–yet life changing–words to me, “Less is more.” From then on, I minimized the number of products that I use on my head.The moral of the story is that product junk(ism”> can lead from one unhealthy hair result to a series of damaging problems for your hair. At times, we may think that the solution is in finding another product; however, this practice turns into a vicious cycle of continuing damage to the point of needing a mini chop. My best advice is to choose your product selection based on the needs of your hair and the ingredients that work best for it. Fight the temptation to try it all; save your hair and your money.
The healthy hair care journey can sometimes be a tedious task. At times we search high and low to find the perfect remedy to repair or prevent damage. Many times, the answer is in the information we can’t easily find in our YouTube binge watching sessions. However, for those of us that let our inner scientist reign supreme, we’ve learned that protein is a core necessity for strength throughout our bodies.
Protein treatments sometimes get misused, causing other issues–such as severe breakage. It’s time to answer the most frequently asked questions about protein treatments.
What you need to know about protein
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Make sure that your hair has the proper protein-moisture balance to prevent breakage.
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Do not wait long periods of time before applying a protein treatment to your natural hair.
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The strength from protein treatments helps retain length and overall health of each strand.
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See a haircare professional when looking to have a protein treatment done.
1. Can I do a protein treatment at home or should I go to the salon?
In this day and age of using YouTube videos to teach us anything and everything, we’ve become DIY experts in life, especially with hair care. However, as much as we want to do things on our own to save money, we have come to the realization that there are some things we should leave to the professionals. Though protein treatments may seem easy peasy to do at home, if you are new to the protein treatment game it is highly recommended that they are performed at a salon.
High-end protein treatments contain natural combinations that harden the hair. They are considered to be safe to use under the supervision of hair professionals who know how to properly handle them when they are applied to the hair.
Natural hair has to dry a certain way and be handled delicately; many testimonials can be found with individuals that handled their hair too roughly with the treatment in which led them to experience more damage. Here’s what our editor Kami has to say after using one on her type 4 hair:
2. How often should you do a protein treatment?
This question tends to go under heavy scrutiny because many naturalistas have a different answer based on the condition of their unique head of hair. To eliminate all confusion, protein treatments–especially deep treatments–should be done every 4 to 6 weeks.
Protein treatments should be applied so sparingly for a couple of reasons, the first being that applying protein treatments too often can lead to protein overload causing breakage throughout the hair.
Secondly, according to professionals from ApHogee, using deep protein treatments more than once every 4 to 6 weeks may not provide any further benefit. Some hair care professionals may suggest getting a protein treatment every three months, about the same length of time in between regular trims.
3. What do you do after a protein treatment?
When dealing with protein and its application to hair, it is important to know about the rules that govern the protein-moisture balance of your hair. It is a highly interdependent relationship; the hair cannot be of great quality if one component is off-kilter.
How Protein-Moisture Balance Affect Breakage
Under the same conditions, hair that is deficit of protein results in breakage and hair that is deficit in moisture also leads to breakage. Additionally, hair that is overloaded with protein can result in breakage from stiffness; hair with too much moisture will break from lack of structural support.
When applying a deep protein treatment, you must be sure to apply a deep moisturizing product after. Brands like Aphogee come have a two-step protein treatment that has a deep rinse out moisturizer as the last step. Naturalistas who do not favor silicones of any kind may opt for a moisturizing deep conditioner to protect the hair from undesirable side effects of using them.
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Across the many blogs and YouTube videos we consume on a regular basis, a variety of moisture infusion methods can be found to solve the problem of chronically dry hair.
These methods range from simplistic routines of mixing honey with olive oil to trapping heat using household supplies. Two popular methods for lasting moisture are the Greenhouse Effect and the Baggy Method. Many times these two distinct methods are mistakenly used interchangeably however; they are both unique in their own respects.
What is The Baggy Method?
The purpose is to increase moisture retention and bring elasticity to the hair strands. This is done throughout the use of your own body heat, a plastic cap, and a conditioner or moisturizer. There are a few aspects of the Baggy Method that separate it from the Greenhouse Effect. The first of which is that there is an option to do the baggy method on your ends or your entire head.
Who benefits from the Baggy Method?
Some naturals may suffer from extreme dry brittle ends or a complete head of dry hair; this method is great because it can be targeted toward specific sections of the hair.
For the naturalistas that don’t exclude products non-natural products from their regimen this is for you. Another caveat to using the Baggy Method is that there is no requirement that 100% Natural products need to be used on the strands.
This method can be performed on dry hair instead of damp hair. The application of water based products and the heat generated from the Baggy Method allow for the cuticle layer to be lifted and the infusion of the moisture throughout the hair strands.
How to do The Baggy Method
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Apply a conditioner (leave-in or rinse out”> on clean dry hair that’s been placed in a ponytail, braid, twists or a bun.
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Cover the ends of the hair with a plastic processing cap or plastic wrap (adding a satin scarf to the hair allows for further trapping of body heat”>.
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Let the processing cap and scarf to sit on the hair for 3 to 4 hours (or overnight”>.
Unlike the Baggy Method, the Greenhouse Effect does not involve the use of moisturizers and leave in products.
What is the Greenhouse Effect?
Unlike the Baggy Method, the Greenhouse Effect does not involve the use of moisturizers and leave in products. The Greenhouse Effect encourages the usage of shampoos, conditioners, and other products that are 100% natural.
Who Benefits from the Greenhouse Effect?
The Greenhouse Effect is useful for naturalistas seeking to stimulate growth throughout their scalp. The purpose is to increase the natural sebum of the scalp by using body heat.
How to do The Greenhouse Effect
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Apply a oil blend or butter that is 100% Natural on damp hair.
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Place a plastic processing cap and secure it with a hair tie.
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Place a satin or silk bonnet over your head and allow to stay on your hair overnight.
Although many of us have varying hair goals from retaining moisture to increasing growth, these two simple methods share one long-term goal: longer natural hair. Both methods create a better environment in the scalp that combats issues of dryness and brittle strands.
What results have you seen from using the Baggy Method or Greenhouse Effect?
On the journey to natural hair glory, one of the few difficulties is finding effective styles while transitioning.
Styling while transitioning can be a challenge; blending multiple textures in hair seamlessly requires lots of great technique and patience. It’s a tedious and sometimes discouraging task to find styles that blend both your newly natural curls and your older processed hair. Here are the 3 major keys to blending multiple textures…because, I want you to be successful.
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Braid-out
Braid-outs are a great option for blending the many textures of transitioning hair because throughout the braid each bend and curve is exactly the same. One of the keys to a successful blending with a braid-out is using a product that will moisturize the entire section well and provide a lasting hold. Another key to a successful braid-out while working with multiple textures is to create smaller sections for each braid; this gives more definition and will have a higher chance of lasting in humidity. Smaller sections adhere to better to the cast of a gel, too.
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Bantu Knots
Bantu knots are another great style for blending multiple textures for a couple of reasons. Because bantu knots are wound tightly around themselves, a tight, smooth curl is created consistently throughout the section of hair. The tight knot allows new growth to stretch completely to blend with the looser texture or straight processed ends. When it comes to bantu knots and blending textures, sections that are too small can take away from the blending of the style. Tiny sections can cause the result to be non uniform in texture (which could cause each texture to react differently to the environment’s humidity levels”>.
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Flexi Rod Set
The luxurious results of a successful flexi rod set is at the top of many aspiring naturalistas lists of things to execute. A flexi rod set is a good method for blending textures because the tension used to stretch the new growth helps create a uniform texture to match the processed ends. The beauty of using flexi rods on hair with multiple textures is that there are many different styles that can be achieved. No matter which size flexi rod, a sleek curl with the best technique used can help blend the multiple textures of transitioning hair.
What styling methods do you use to blend your multiple textures while transitioning?
Remember, the most important parts of blending multiple textures is smoothing the hair down from root to tip, using taut tension so that the hair strands can mimic the bends implemented by the braid, bantu knot, or flexi rod.
Moisture is the one of the many keys to natural hair greatness. For some high porosity naturalistas, moisture retention can be a difficult task.
Porosity is the determining factor, which helps us decide the products that will best aid in moisture retention. Moisture retention is especially hard for naturals with high porosity. High porosity hair can easily absorb moisture but has trouble retaining it. This is rundown of some of the best butter stylers for high porosity.
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1. SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal Styling Gel ($11 at Target”>
This styling gel is one of latest on the market created specifically with ingredients that help high-density high porosity hair retain enough moisture. Two ingredients in this product that work great for high porosity hair are the Shea Butter and Mongongo oil. Shea butter is a moisturizing sealant that creates a thick coating on the hair strands to keep moisture in. Mongongo oil selected seals the cuticle of high porosity hair. It can be used on damp hair to achieve fully moisturized twist-outs.2. Design Essentials Natural Honey Curlforming Custard ($16.99 in Curlmart“>
With the warmer months right around the corner, humidity and humectants will be a good friend to naturals with high porosity hair. A major highlight of this product is the honey that is included. Honey is a natural humectant, which means it attracts moisture. This product, when used for a wash-n-go, will leave your curls full of moisture from the product itself and from the moisture of the environment.
3. Curl Junkie Coffee-Coco Curl Creme ($24 in Curlmart“>
The multiple butters in this product along with the many moisture rich ingredients makes this great for high porosity hair. The Coffee Bean Butter and Shea Butter soften the dry hair and creates a thick layer that traps the much-needed moisture in the hair strands. This moisture rich butter is great for twist outs and flat twists when used with a light liquid leave in conditioner.
4. Darcy’s Botanicals Organic Coconut Butter Styling Pomade ($12 in Curlmart“>
This product contains many light yet powerful ingredients that will maintain a complex style and also lock moisture into the hair strands. Two of the most important ingredients for high porosity hair are the coconut butter and the hint of beeswax that is included in this product. This product not only seals in moisture but is also good for creating perfect flexi rod set when used on damp hair.
5. Eden Bodyworks Coconut Shea Pudding Souffle ($9 in Curlmart“>
It can be deceiving that this product might do much for high porosity hair because its ingredients are few but this product is about quality over quantity. The coconut oil and shea butter in this product infuse moisture into the strand, soften coarse hair, and seal moisture in with the thickness of the shea butter. This product works best with achieving twist-outs when applied to damp hair with a leave in conditioner for added moisture.
6. Alikay Naturals Moisture Rich Hair Parfait ($16 in Curlmart“>
This products main ingredient is Shea Butter, which makes for a great sealant and emollient. One of the claims of this product is to seal in moisture, the main need for high porosity hair. The best twist outs, flexi rod sets, and braid outs can be achieved with this product when used on damp hair after a wash or when applied with the Alikay Natural Lemongrass Leave In Conditioner.
7. Cantu Shea Butter Coconut Curling Cream ($6 at Target”>
Many of the ingredients of this product benefit natural hair with moisture infusion and moisture retention. The canola oil is a great ingredient for sealing the hair strand enough to not create buildup. This product is great for braid outs and twist outs since its mimics the hold of a gel.
8. Creme of Nature Pudding Perfection ($9 at Sally Beauty Supply”>
This product contains multiple oils and butters that create a creamy hydrating sealant for high porosity hair strands. The combination of avocado oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter allow for the hair to have lasting moisture past the initial styling day. This styling pudding works best for twist outs and coiling when applied to wet or damp hair.
9. Miss Jessie’s Baby Buttercreme ($32 in Curlmart“>
Not all naturals may be fans of non-natural or organic ingredients in their products; however, these ingredients such as mineral oil are beneficial for high porosity hair strands. The reason is that mineral oil is a benefit for high porosity hair is that it creates a thick non-penetrable coating on the hair strands. This product is great for twist and braid outs when the hair is wet so that ample amounts of moisture are locked into the hair strands.
10. Carol’s Daughter Hair Milk Nourishing & Conditioning Styling Butter ($12″>
This product has many ingredients that deeply nourish the strands for lasting moisture. The cocoa butter not only has great moisturizing qualities but is also thick enough in consistency to seal moisture into the hair strands. This product is great for twist outs, braid outs, and wash-and-gos. When you’re styling for a twist or braid out its best to style on damp hair after using any hair milk product for added moisture.
The takeaway
For naturals with high porosity hair strands there are many options to solve the problem of moisture retention. The key is looking for thick products with thick butter to lock moisture in.
Do you use a butter product for your high porosity hair?
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“Quick! Let me take a selfie.”
When I get up in the morning, I love the woman I see looking back at me–whether I’m putting on makeup or not. In my mind I think, she’s radiating with beauty from the inside out.
Then I say out loud, “Yass hair and brows!” or “Do it for the gram!” at which point I take my phone out, open the camera, and begin “working my angles” like Tyra says. However, after about 10 minutes and reviewing what seemed to be a success, I become annoyed by the failed attempt to capture the beauty I see in my reflection.
Being in a society that craves validation and acceptance, we take to social media platforms such as Instagram to find our self-value based on the number of ‘likes’ we get. As a black woman in the community, I feel as though I’m under a microscope every waking moment of every day. I feel as if I’m constantly being scrutinized for the many looks of my hair, the way my makeup looks, or the way my body looks. It’s as though women of color are held to a higher standard in order to be approved by the patriarchal standards of society.
Being in a society that craves validation and acceptance, we take to social media platforms like Instagram to find self-value based on the number of ‘likes’ and reposts we get.
I’m a strong believer that having your own unshaken self-defined confidence carries you a long way. It signifies the greatness within yourself, validating that you approve your beauty from within.
Building an unhealthy habit
With all that being said, the constant habit of taking a selfie, posting it online in desperation for likes and views hurts our self-confidence as black women. This destroys our self-confidence because it puts us into the vicious mindset of strategically plotting what time of the day to post selfies to achieve a high volume of likes. We spend those moments of anticipation, after dwelling over a reel of selfies and creating a snappy caption, waiting to see how many likes we’re going to receive.
The habit of constant selfie taking and posting for social media isn’t the only issue; adding in the many filters damages self-confidence as well. We have been told for many years that our radiance and facial features are not beautiful. More importantly, we’ve been told that our complexion is unacceptable.
The photo filtering system creates an environment in which we conform to others ideologies of beauty.
The vast number of filters between every photo editing application allows for skin complexion to be altered, making it lighter and hiding flaws that actually make us beautiful in one way or another. The photo filtering system creates an environment in which we conform to others ideologies of beauty. It doesn’t allow us to bask in the untouched beauty that we already possess and share that in its purest form with all of our followers.
My advice to my natural sistas, black queens, and young queens on the rise
Don’t wait on society for any sort of validation, affirmation, or approval that you are beautiful or that you are worthy. Look at the woman staring back at you in the mirror and love her unconditionally. The self-confidence you need in your life comes purely from you, not from the 100 plus likes on instagram or whatever goes down in your DM. You’re a queen! Your radiance and beautiful complexion doesn’t need to be altered by five separate filters. Love yourself.
Straightening Brushes: A Cop or Flop?
Naturalistas of all hair types value the power of versatility; the ability to go from curly to straight and back is always a marveling experience. In our pursuit for a stretched style, we search for the most effective ways to straighten while minimizing the risk of damage. The latest craze on the hair care market is the straightening brush. Of course, everything has its pros, cons, and a cautionary tale. Let’s feast our eyes on this new hair tool.
What is a Straightening Brush?
A straightening brush is a hair tool that promises to heat style the hair with sleek results. The labeling of the straightening brush promises that by using this tool other styling tools will no longer be needed.
The benefits
Through the tedious and lengthy process of straightening naturally kinky, coily, and curly hair, we have to thoroughly dry our hair in the form of a blowout. After reviewing many videos and experimenting on my own trusty cousin, I’ve noticed some aspects of this tool that are more beneficial versus using a traditional flat iron.
Temperature selection
The straightening brush can reach a maximum of 550 degrees. This is a great feature for naturals with looser curl patterns because it allows for only needing about two passes with the straightening brush to achieve a sleek style. Not saying that anyone should be using this device at the maximum temperature.
No more “Chase Method”
When going through the straightening process, many naturalistas use the Chase Method to ensure that the heat being applied smoothes out each strand. Because a straightening brush has evenly distributed bristles throughout, all strands of the hair are separated–thus, given an equal amount of heat application. Essentially, the bristles of a straightening brush will streamline the straightening process.
For the nervous nellies that fear the potential damage of smashing their delicate hair strands between metal plates, worry no more. The straightening brush does not require any additional parts to aid in creating a smooth polished look.
The risks
Whenever we decide to embark on the journey of applying heat to our precious hair, we have to be very careful to minimize damage as much as possible. When using the straightening brush there are specific precautions to look out for beside traditional heat damage.
Melting hair
The hair-melting factor is a major risk of using the straightening brush because it reaches such a high temperature. Different hair types require different temperatures (the keratin in hair strands begins to melt at 325 degrees”>. Beyond 325 degrees, the chances of completely melting the hair strands increases. To save heartbreak and trauma, don’t be hasty and use extreme temperatures. You know what your hair can handle better than anyone.
Mechanical damage
Mechanical damage can occur when using the straightening brush because the tips of the bristle can snag on to the ends of the hair strands. This happened very rarely throughout reviews; however, the snagging of the hair can cause terrible split ends that require those ends to be trimmed.
Lastly, when using any direct heat to our hair we have to take caution of heat damage. Always be sure to use a heat protectant to decrease the potential of long-term damage. Your hair will thank you.
Have you tried one of these popular straightening brushes?
From childhood to adulthood, it was always preached to me that everything about hair revolves around length.
As a self-proclaimed on-and-off again natural from childhood to adulthood, it was always preached to me that everything about hair revolves around length. In every hair related conversation to this day, 5 out of 6 people I’m conversing with are consistently speaking about length. I found it to be interesting how my friends–and some family members–have become naturals who obsesses over doing constant length checks. These conversations, in some way, remind me of hidden insecurities that straight hair is the “key” to being beautiful and empowerment.
Now I do volume checks instead of length checks
I admit that when I first started my transitioning phase, I was also obsessed with doing length checks. Now that I’ve become realistic about my own hair goals, I’m more in tune with doing volume checks. You may be asking yourself what exactly that consists of.
Because I have densely packed tightly coiled strands, I’m more interested in my hair growing upward and outward versus the length when my hair is fully stretched out with heat. For tightly coiled naturalistas like myself, the hair mainly grows in more of an upward direction than growing downward, unlike those with looser curl patterns.
I live by the motto: The bigger the hair, the harder they stare.
There are a number of reasons why I’m more concerned with constant volume checks.
1. I like my hair to be big and not flat against my head. I feel like I lose part of my individuality whenever I straighten my hair for a length check because its similar to rejecting my own standards of who I am as an individual. Every head of natural hair is so different that it makes each one of us unique. I don’t want to mask something that expresses a unique feature of my being.
2. The fear of my curls not coming back on the next wash will forever haunt me. Yes, I know my coily hair’s heat tolerance, in addition to an efficient method for straightening my hair. However, going through the year-long process to rehabilitate my curls hurts my little natural heart.
Length vs. volume–what matters to you?
Although more women of color are going back to their natural roots, the conversation of “hair goals” can be seen as divided into separate schools of thinking. Some hold onto the old school way of thinking that length is the ultimate goal; others simply want a healthy head of hair.
There’s no harm done in wanting to monitor the growing volume of your hair. While measuring your length, however, there are certain precautions to take in order to not cause damage. I strongly advocate for my fellow naturalistas to embrace the growing volume of their hair throughout their journey. We don’t have to conform to old ideologies of associating beauty with long waist-length hair to be seen as beautiful. Be You!
Photos courtesy of Jessica Kat
