As a naturalista within the natural hair community, I can confidently say that shea butter is definitely a favorite among us. It’s a popular ingredient, with so many benefits, and it can be used on our hair and our skin!
However, when it comes to shea butter + locs, it can be quite the controversial topic.
In my experience and research, some loc’d folks discourage the use of shea butter in locs because, although natural, it’s a very thick butter. Thick butters tend to be the ones that are difficult to wash out, and what a lot of people who use them don’t realize is that if you were to take one loc and split it in half, you’d most likely find a buildup of shea butter, and similarly heavy products, just sitting inside your loc, chillin. Eww!
Now, there are loads of natural hair products with shea butter and – in varying amounts – I do believe it can be useable for locs. I think there’s also a silver lining to using it melted down as opposed to its raw, solidified form, which is another conversation altogether.
I had made up my mind that I wouldn’t use shea butter on my locs because of all the ‘horror-story’ style videos I’ve seen on YouTube about buildup in locs; however, being the (self-proclaimed”> eco-friendly woman that I am, I decided that I was going to use the shea Moisture Conditioner that I had under the bathroom sink, until it was all gone, and move onto a product I found ‘more suitable’ for my loc’d hair.
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What I didn’t realize, was that I hadn’t been doing a good enough job washing out this conditioner in my hair, and on a show day, I decided to wash my hair, and was met with a huge dilemma.
Check out my 6-month loc update video, where I give an update to the state of my hair, while unknowingly, setting myself up for a disaster. #trialanderror
In most cases, “loosening up” is a positive thing; it’s associated with relaxing, letting go, and having a good time. But when my curls decide to loosen up, it’s a whole different story.
No matter what kind of wavy, coily, or curly you are, you can probably relate: curls that start out bouncy and fresh in the morning sometimes deflate, like a tire losing air, until they’re stretched, flat, and frizzy. But why?
“Curls have a mind of their own,” says Tara Love, the founder of Tara Love Hair, a salon that caters to African-American and multicultural women. “They are very unpredictable because you never know what they will do from one day to the next.”
Gravity
“Maybe the reason why curls fall or get looser is because of gravity,” she speculates. “The hair can also be heavy, as in high-density hair with thick strands. Fine, short hairs tend to curl tighter and experience no real gravity pull.”
If your hair is thick and dense, gravity is likely to blame for your stretched curls—and it’s not easy to fight a force of nature. That being said, you can make your hair less susceptible to the effects of gravity by using lightweight products that won’t weigh you down further. “For curly styles that you want to stay in place, leave-ins and oils are needed,” Love shares.
“I love an old staple called Infusium 23,” she adds. “It’s light and controls frizz. If you need a little oil, I love Jane Carter Nourish and Shine. It’s great for hair and body. Rub a bit in the palm and apply.”
It’s also a good idea to switch out your hard-hold gel for a light cream to keep curls buoyant. CurlTalk member @oh.hi.its.steph recommends SheaMoisture Curl Milk: “I find it to be perfectly moisturizing and curl-enhancing, but not terribly heavy either!”
High-porosity curls and waves are more likely to loosen throughout the day than low-porosity curls. That’s because high-porosity hair has large gaps and holes in the cuticle, making it very easy for the hair to lose moisture; and when moisture evaporates from high-porosity hair, it renders products less effective—which results in loose, frizzy curls.
“If you’re highly porous you might be in need of protein,” says this CurlTalk commenter. A silk protein treatment can help repair the gaps in your hair cuticles to keep your curls intact.
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Since highly porous hair loses moisture easily, it’s essential to stock up on ultra-hydrating products, like leave-in conditioners and sealers. You can also add anti-humectants to your hair care routine, like Ouidad Climate Control Heat and Humidity Gel, to seal the cuticle and keep moisture in. At night, try a heavy hair butter treatment—Mizani Strength Fusion Intense Night-Time Treatment is a great option—to lock in hydration and prep your curls for a new day.
In one recent study, physicists studying the curvature of steel rods stumbled upon some interesting findings, namely, what makes curly hair go limp. Their conclusion? “The actual number of hairs per square inch on any individual’s scalp…that greater or lesser crowding may play a role,” according to Time Magazine. In other words, if you’ve got a lot of hair, your individual strands may just be too crowded to stay curly all day.
If this is the case for you, there are two things you can do:
One, incorporate a hard-hold gel into your routine to give you the all-day definition. After smoothing Carol’s Daughter Coco Creme Curl Shaping Cream Gel through your hair, twirl individual pieces around your finger to create a defined curl pattern and diffuse dry.
And two, accept that you’ve been blessed with thick, luscious curls—and at the end of the day, no matter how loose they are, your curls are beautiful. (At least, this is what I like to tell myself!”>
It’s important to note that even with a full morning routine of leave-ins, creams, and gels, curls sometimes need a little midday refresh. What can you do? It’s just their nature.
Ever find your curls falling flat throughout the day? What do you do to keep them springy? Get some extra help with the Best of The Best Texture Tools in 2024.
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