If you’ve recently noticed the phrase “talc-free” on social media or typed across the packaging of your favorite makeup powders and wondered what that means, you’re not alone. It seems that overnight, boasting about a product’s lack of talc — or even removing it in often-disputed reformulations — has become a new selling point. However, like most new beauty trends, it’s not without criticism. But first, we need to understand what exactly talc is.
“Talc is a compound full of minerals and elements, including magnesium, oxygen, hydrogen, and silicon. It is found in foundation, eyeshadow, blush, lipstick, and eyeliner. Talc helps add texture to certain products,” says dermatologist Dr. Karan Lal. Talc also acts as a mattifying ingredient and a thickening agent, according to Lal. It’s particularly popular as a mattifying ingredient for face powders, so it’s probably no coincidence that this year’s most popular powder launches all have removed this controversial ingredient while taking an extra step. Tower 28’s GetSet Blur + Set Talc-Free Powder, Kosas’ Cloud Set Baked Setting and & Smoothing Talc-Free Powder, and Makeup by Mario’s SurrealSkin Talc-Free Soft Blur Setting Powder all include the phrase “talc-free.” These brands aren’t the first to not use talc — others, like Laura Mercier and Hourglass Cosmetics, have been avoiding it for years — however, the product names are a clear and intentional communication to their customers, perhaps indicating the product’s safety.
There is a reason why powders are some of the first products to push to remove talc. “When [talc] is inhaled, it can cause inflammation in the lungs, and some talc has been contaminated with asbestos, which has been linked to a type of cancer called mesothelioma,” says Dr. Lal. (The reason why there’s a risk of asbestos contamination involves how it is mined — the two minerals can naturally form near each other.) Because facial powders, particularly loose-setting powders, send particles into the air, it can be hard to avoid inhaling them, even though talc is safe on the skin. While talc is not considered a toxic ingredient legally, there could be a chance that brands are removing it as a preventative measure, fearing that it could join lists of banned ingredients. In 2023, California passed a bill banning several ingredients commonly used in cosmetics.
Aside from the potential health dangers, talc isn’t the greatest ingredient. “Powders formulated with talc can often feel cakey, and the ingredient has a tendency to irritate sensitive skin,” says Tower 28 founder and CEO Amy Liu. But removing talc from products isn’t as simple as it may sound, and formulating without this ingredient means thinking outside the box. According to Liu, talc is both inexpensive as a raw material and highly effective as an ingredient, as it has a silky texture and an ability to absorb oil and moisture, allowing it to control shine. Alternative ingredients such as arrowroot, tapioca powder, zinc oxide, rice powder, silica, and cornstarch work as well, if not better, than talc. (Though they may come with their own risks when accidentally inhaled or otherwise.)
Despite these promising alternatives, many brands still haven’t jumped on the no-talc bandwagon, partly because it’s more cost-effective and partly because consumers are wary of their go-to products being reformulated. When formulating Tower 28’s new powder, Liu and her team were determined to find an ample alternative. “After many iterations, we found that using kaolin clay in the formula was the answer. It’s one of the softest clays out there, is safe for sensitive skin, and has excellent oil-absorbing properties,” shares Liu.
While talc may remain in beauty products with a low risk of inhalation, we may need to get used to seeing “talc-free” on our powders from here on out. As consumers and brands push to remove this controversial ingredient from products, the exciting innovation coming out of this shift has us all reaching for our talc-free powders.
Shop the best talc-free powders on the market today.
