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Home • Curl Products • Ingredients

The Difference Between Curly Products and "Regular" Products

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The Difference Between Curly Products and "Regular" Products
By · Updated March 28, 2015

Demi.torowus from our Curly Q&A section wants to know “Is there a difference between ‘regular’ hair products and products specifically for curly hair?” The quick answer is yes but her follow-up questions had me intrigued.

Question

So I’ve been wondering recently, what’s the difference between products specified for curly/wavy hair and “regular” hair products? Besides salt, are there ingredients to look for that help define and hold curls in these curly hair products? Also, are there any ingredients that define Caucasian/European hair than African/kinky coily hair and vice versa?

Answer

Look past the noise and get to the message

First, it is important to acknowledge that regardless of how a product is marketed with buzzwords or models of a certain complexion or hair texture, the consumer can and should bypass the noise (i.e. marketing”> and go directly to the messaging (i.e. ingredients”>. All brands want their consumers to have a positive attitude about their products because it builds brand loyalty, and within the curly community there seems to be a correlation between community attitude and ingredients. When products are chock-full with cheap ingredients like mineral oil, water insoluble silicones, and sulfates, the curly community seems to look down upon on that brand because they feel undervalued. Some even view the brand as opportunistic, especially when there is little to no formulation distinctions between the products marketed for straight hair versus product marketed for curly hair. Here are is a short list of common ingredients that are increasing being omitted from curly hair care products to make them more effective and more appealing:

  • Shampoo: sulfates
  • Conditioner: water insoluble silicones
  • Moisturizers and stylers: paraffinum liquidum (mineral oil“>

As you can see, marketing is almost irrelevant when selecting products, especially when it appears that more effort and resources were invested in the marketing than new and improved formulations.

Product distinction within textured hair matters, sometimes

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Aside from the stark differences between straight hair and curly hair, the main reason brands will develop different products for specific curl patterns (i.e. Type 2, Type 3, and Type 4“> is because of styling needs and expectations, and this is not as easy to determine by reading the ingredients list. Any ingredients can be used on all curl patterns, so without brands distinguishing which consumer each specific styling product was formulated for, it can be downright confusing. Product formulators are the only people who can identify how an ingredient and its predominance affects the product’s performance, especially with the 1% labeling rule, so it is helpful to either take heed of distinction cues (e.g. strong, medium, light”> or online product reviews. For example, the Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea Curl Defining Crème has a medium hold, which is probably better for tighter textures, and the Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea All Natural Pudding Soufflé has a soft hold, which is probably better for looser textures. Without those distinctions I cannot determine which ingredients or which combination of ingredients affect their hold.

Read more: This is Actually More Important than Your Curl Pattern

Reading ingredients is the best practice

Even with the assistance of helpful packaging, nothing is better than first reading the ingredients list and then trial and error. Relying on marketing limits your fabulous hair possibilities. Community favorites Aussie Moist Conditioner and Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Conditioner are prime examples of how curly-haired women looked past the straight-haired models and read the ingredients lists. I have yet to witness women with naturally curly hair grace any of the Aussie or Herbal Essences print or commercial ads, but a quick product review search in YouTube will reveal who are the primary consumers of those collections. Do not let a brand limit you from exploring different products. Tammy didn’t. A stroll down the ethnic hair care aisle changed her hair and her mind from that day forward. Watch her story below.

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Home • Curl Products • Ingredients

Decode Curly Hair Product Labels Like a Pro

Learn how to read hair product labels like a pro.
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Decode Curly Hair Product Labels Like a Pro
Beautician reading beauty product label
By Lindsay Wilson · Updated December 26, 2024

You finally decided to start your healthy curly hair journey with the Curly Girl Method. “Embrace my curls” or “Curly and proud,” you repeat to yourself. A few website clicks later, and you find products that are labeled “Sulfate and Silicone Free“. You take the plunge and purchase them without checking the ingredients because you trust the labels. Now you have $70 worth of hair product on its way. Recommendations continue to pop up on your social media feed, and $300 later, you still haven’t found what works for YOUR HAIR!

“You’ll just have to try it and see if it works for you!” or “This is all about trial and error!” others would gently say.

I am here to tell you that there is another way to choose your products instead of trying everything that is on the market. Understanding how to read ingredient lists has transformed my curly hair journey without decimating my bank balance!

“Sulfate-free” doesn’t always mean Sulfate-Free

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In the very early stages of my journey with the Curly Girl Method, I made these mistakes several times. A shampoo would have the label “Sulfate Free” at the front, and then later, I would have a hard time dealing with dryness and would finally see a Sulfate listed in the ingredients. From my experience over time, I came to understand that when advertisers label “Sulfate Free” at the very front, they are referring to one of the harshest Sulfates: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. However, this does not mean that the product is entirely free of Sulfates. On several occasions, I have found other drying Sulfates in the list, despite the “Sulfate Free” label.

Curly Girl-friendly ingredients to look for

Chemical ingredients in a hair gel

In the Curly Girl Method, we avoid harsh Sulfates and drying Alcohols (they dehydrate the hair), Silicones, Waxes, and Mineral Oils (they build up). As replacements, we look for ingredients that are mild, moisturizing, and soluble for curly hair in order to minimize dryness and foster better moisture retention.

If you are following the Curly Girl Method like me, look for cleansers that are mild for curls, such as:

  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine
  • Coco Betaine
  • Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
  • Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
  • Sodium Cocoamphoacetate or Sodium Lauroamphoacetate

Devacurl Low Poo Original , Olaplex NO. 3 and AG Care Balance Apple Cider Vinegar Sulfate-Free Shampoo because I co-wash, and these two also contain mild cleansers.

Not all alcohols are bad for curls. There are moisturizing alcohols in ingredient lists that are good for hair. Some examples are:

  • Lauryl alcohol
  • Cetyl alcohol
  • Myristyl alcohol
  • Stearyl alcohol
  • Cetearyl alcohol
  • Behenyl alcohol

You can read more about the differences in alcohols here.

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Slip is very helpful for detangling curls because it decreases friction. Silicones are used in traditional mainstream products to add slip and shine. The issue with Silicones is that they don’t penetrate the hair shaft to make it better and they also build up.

They are removable with Sulfates, but in turn, the frequent use of Sulfates dehydrates the hair. It becomes a vicious cycle. Soluble ingredients for lubrication, on the other hand, make the hair better over time. They also add shine and flexibility to curly hair. If you follow the Curly Girl Method like me, you can replace Silicones with soluble ingredients that are located near the top of the list, such as:

  • Behentrimonium Methosulfate
  • Behentrimonium Chloride
  • Dicetyldimonium Chloride
  • Distearyldimonium Chloride
  • Polyquaternium 55
  • Cetrimonium Bromide

I came to learn this helpful information from Wendy (a scientist) on the Hair Science-y Blog and Tonya Mckay here on NaturallyCurly.

Ingredient amounts in products

Decode Curly Hair Product Labels Like a Pro

The Natural Haven Bloom Blog has helped me to understand the importance of ingredient concentrations in products. For example, just because a product is advertised with an “Argan Oil” label doesn’t mean that this product has high amounts of this oil. When ingredients are listed, they appear in descending order, calculated by either mass or volume.

As a result, when we read lists, we should always focus on the first five ingredients because they are the main ingredients (in higher amounts). A product that is labeled “Argan Oil” may well have some Argan oil included in the list, but the amount should be the most important thing to look for. If Argan oil is included near the end of the list, the amount is very small and insignificant.

Allergic reactions to products

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If you have an allergy to a specific ingredient, relying only on front labels is likely to cause problems. Here I am sharing four steps that you can take to safeguard yourself:

  1. Read ingredient lists very carefully;
  2. Try a single new product at a time. This is helpful because if something unusual happens, you will know that the only difference in your routine is the brand-new product;
  3. Patch test the product on your skin before using it for the first time, even if you can’t spot any ingredients that are harmful to you: Apply a small amount of the product on a patch of skin that is located on the inner, lower arm. Rub it in and allow it to dry. Avoid washing the area for at least 24 hours and then watch for signs of a reaction;
  4. Observe closely how your scalp reacts after product application, even if the product has passed the first three steps above. If you notice a burning sensation, itching, redness, lumps or anything unusual on your scalp, you will know that this product isn’t suitable for you.
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Always remember: If you happen to have a serious allergic reaction to a product, please seek medical attention immediately.

In summary, if you are looking for a product that is healthy for curls, focus on mild cleansers that won’t dehydrate your hair. Choose conditioners and styling products that have soluble ingredients for slip and elasticity. Reading ingredient lists is a good habit when caring for your curls and overall health. It also saves money and time. The more you practice, the easier it becomes.

Do you use the curly girl method when using products? Learn more about ingredients from Breaking New Ground: The Ingredients Behind The First Black Haircare Brands.

OUR EDITORS INDEPENDENTLY SELECT ALL PRODUCTS FEATURED ON NATURALLYCURLY. HOWEVER, WE MAY EARN AN AFFILIATE COMMISSION WHEN YOU BUY SOMETHING THROUGH OUR RETAIL LINKS.

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