Hi! My name is Hortencia Caires, but people call me Tezz.
I’m originally from Brazil, but live in NYC. I’m currently working at B&H Photo as information for different camera brands. I’ve been rocking my curly hair on and off for 5 years, but strictly curly for the past 3 years. I can freely do as I please with my hair as long as it’s not too extreme. My personal style in the clothing aspect, however, is very limiting due to the company being very strict. I still manage to stay true to my style without breaking any rules, most of the time.
Get to know yourself and your hair, it’ll allow you to not feel so helpless and frustrated.
How I describe my hair
My hair is currently healthy, but needs lots of cream in order to stay hydrated. My curls are thick 3c with some 3a in my nape and behind the ears area. I have a lot of hair.
On a “bad” hair day…
I want to say it gets frizzy, but I’ve learned to embrace it. So I’ll say that some of my curls are inconsistent with its curl pattern in some areas. I’m kind of a perfectionist so it drives me a little crazy, but I can’t do anything about it so I just enjoy the stubborn curls regardless.
My curly hair routine
It took me a long time to stop myself from wetting my hair and starting fresh everyday. So right now I do it every 2-3 days and style my hair when it’s extremely wet. I use the Devacurl line, No-Poo Decadence Cleanser, One Condition Decadence and the SuperCream Coconut Styler in combination with the Bounce Curl Light Creme Gel (not shown in the video”>. The styling cream moisturizes my hair and hydrates it and the gel defines my curls. I just started to add the gel, which really plays an important part in how long my curls will last.
Learn from my mistakes, excessive heat will cause heat damage that is irreversible.
My advice: Embrace what is yours!
Article continues after video.
For the longest time I just couldn’t love my hair and I found out it was because I wasn’t educated on how to style it. Get to know yourself and your hair, it’ll allow you to not feel so helpless and frustrated. Seek advice from blogs and other curly hair beauties, it’ll make a world of difference on your own hair journey. Learn from my mistakes, excessive heat will cause heat damage that is irreversible.
You finally decided to start your healthy curly hair journey with the Curly Girl Method. “Embrace my curls” or “Curly and proud,” you repeat to yourself. A few website clicks later, and you find products that are labeled “Sulfate and Silicone Free“. You take the plunge and purchase them without checking the ingredients because you trust the labels. Now you have $70 worth of hair product on its way. Recommendations continue to pop up on your social media feed, and $300 later, you still haven’t found what works for YOUR HAIR!
“You’ll just have to try it and see if it works for you!” or “This is all about trial and error!” others would gently say.
I am here to tell you that there is another way to choose your products instead of trying everything that is on the market. Understanding how to read ingredient lists has transformed my curly hair journey without decimating my bank balance!
In the very early stages of my journey with the Curly Girl Method, I made these mistakes several times. A shampoo would have the label “Sulfate Free” at the front, and then later, I would have a hard time dealing with dryness and would finally see a Sulfate listed in the ingredients. From my experience over time, I came to understand that when advertisers label “Sulfate Free” at the very front, they are referring to one of the harshest Sulfates: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. However, this does not mean that the product is entirely free of Sulfates. On several occasions, I have found other drying Sulfates in the list, despite the “Sulfate Free” label.
Curly Girl-friendly ingredients to look for
In the Curly Girl Method, we avoid harsh Sulfates and drying Alcohols (they dehydrate the hair), Silicones, Waxes, and Mineral Oils (they build up). As replacements, we look for ingredients that are mild, moisturizing, and soluble for curly hair in order to minimize dryness and foster better moisture retention.
If you are following the Curly Girl Method like me, look for cleansers that are mild for curls, such as:
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Coco Betaine
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate or Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
Slip is very helpful for detangling curls because it decreases friction. Silicones are used in traditional mainstream products to add slip and shine. The issue with Silicones is that they don’t penetrate the hair shaft to make it better and they also build up.
They are removable with Sulfates, but in turn, the frequent use of Sulfates dehydrates the hair. It becomes a vicious cycle. Soluble ingredients for lubrication, on the other hand, make the hair better over time. They also add shine and flexibility to curly hair. If you follow the Curly Girl Method like me, you can replace Silicones with soluble ingredients that are located near the top of the list, such as:
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Behentrimonium Chloride
Dicetyldimonium Chloride
Distearyldimonium Chloride
Polyquaternium 55
Cetrimonium Bromide
I came to learn this helpful information from Wendy (a scientist) on the Hair Science-y Blog and Tonya Mckay here on NaturallyCurly.
Ingredient amounts in products
The Natural Haven Bloom Blog has helped me to understand the importance of ingredient concentrations in products. For example, just because a product is advertised with an “Argan Oil” label doesn’t mean that this product has high amounts of this oil. When ingredients are listed, they appear in descending order, calculated by either mass or volume.
As a result, when we read lists, we should always focus on the first five ingredients because they are the main ingredients (in higher amounts). A product that is labeled “Argan Oil” may well have some Argan oil included in the list, but the amount should be the most important thing to look for. If Argan oil is included near the end of the list, the amount is very small and insignificant.
If you have an allergy to a specific ingredient, relying only on front labels is likely to cause problems. Here I am sharing four steps that you can take to safeguard yourself:
Read ingredient lists very carefully;
Try a single new product at a time. This is helpful because if something unusual happens, you will know that the only difference in your routine is the brand-new product;
Patch test the product on your skin before using it for the first time, even if you can’t spot any ingredients that are harmful to you: Apply a small amount of the product on a patch of skin that is located on the inner, lower arm. Rub it in and allow it to dry. Avoid washing the area for at least 24 hours and then watch for signs of a reaction;
Observe closely how your scalp reacts after product application, even if the product has passed the first three steps above. If you notice a burning sensation, itching, redness, lumps or anything unusual on your scalp, you will know that this product isn’t suitable for you.
Always remember: If you happen to have a serious allergic reaction to a product, please seek medical attention immediately.
In summary, if you are looking for a product that is healthy for curls, focus on mild cleansers that won’t dehydrate your hair. Choose conditioners and styling products that have soluble ingredients for slip and elasticity. Reading ingredient lists is a good habit when caring for your curls and overall health. It also saves money and time. The more you practice, the easier it becomes.
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