Back in ye olden days, shower life was simple: We had one shampoo and one conditioner, and we used them nearly every day. These days, though, our routines have gotten more complicated. With the advent of pre-wash treatments, hair oiling, and hair masks joining the cultural zeitgeist, it has become much harder to understand what, exactly, we should be doing to our hair in the shower. Recently, with the launch of her new haircare brand Blake Brown, the actress made headlines by claiming she didn’t even use conditioner anymore—she only used hair masks. But is that really the wave of the future? It’s time to find out.
To start, “hair masks” is a confusing phrase, with many definitions. Some hair masks are meant to be used on dry hair before the shower, others in place of conditioners. Some hair masks are even recommended alongside conditioners. It would be easy to consider hair masks and conditioners as the same product with different names, but experts say that isn’t true. “There is a difference,” says George Papanikolas, a Matrix brand ambassador and celebrity colorist. “Hair conditioners are designed for daily use providing light hydration. Hair masks, on the other hand, are more intensive treatments meant to deeply nourish and repair the hair. Masks typically are left on the hair longer to penetrate the hair shaft and address more specific concerns like damage or dryness.”
For anyone with healthy hair, conditioners should do the trick, providing strands with daily moisture and shine. However, anyone with dry, damaged, chemically-treated or dyed hair could benefit from a hair mask with a more intensity in its formulation. “Conditioners are perfect for daily or every-other-day use after shampooing to maintain moisture and manageability. Hair masks should be used about once a week or biweekly as a deep treatment. I recommend using a hair mask when your hair feels particularly dry, damaged, or brittle, or after any harsh treatments like coloring or chemical processing,” adds Papanikolas.
That isn’t to say that damaged hair can only use hair masks, or vice versa. Finding a balance is often key. “For someone with natural healthy, low-maintenance hair, a regular conditioner is enough. However, those with damaged, dry, or chemically treated hair can greatly benefit from adding a hair mask to their routine to provide deeper hydration and repair. Using both can give a balance between everyday care and targeted treatment,” explains Papanikolas. For anyone who regularly dyes their hair, for example, swapping in a hair mask every few washes could make a huge difference. It’s also important to remember that hair masks can have specific ingredients or properties, such as bond-building or adding protein, which your regular conditioner does not impart.
Beyond damage, hair types play a huge role in who benefits the most from a hair mask, versus a hair conditioner. “Fine, thin, or naturally oily hair types usually benefit more from a lightweight conditioner rather than a heavy mask. These hair types can become weighed down if too much moisture or product is applied, so a conditioner keeps it light and manageable and should only be applied to the ends,” says Papanikolas. On the other hand, “Hair masks are especially beneficial for thick, coarse, curly, or very dry hair. People with chemically treated, bleached, or heat-damaged hair also benefit from the intense moisture and repair properties that masks provide.”
All in all, swapping your daily conditioner for a hair mask all comes down to your specific needs and concerns. Hair masks can be vital for some folks, and unnecessary for others. But even if you think your hair can do without a treatment, every now and then, it’s fun to indulge.
Here, shop some of our favorite hair masks on the market.
