These days, when a buzzy new product hits the market and sells out immediately, you don’t have to worry. Odds are, your favorite drugstore company will make their own version within the month, probably with lower prices and better shade ranges.
Take the Dior lip oil, for example. The product went viral on TikTok and became the new must-have. But in just a few weeks— and well into the next months— they went from cornering the lip oil market entirely, to becoming just one on the shelf, and one of the most expensive ones at that. When it comes to makeup, maybe this is all healthy competition. But, these days, skincare is the latest category to inspire copycats. And that begs the question: Should we trust these skincare dupes?
Defining what exactly a dupe is is part of the issue. In makeup, we can see similarities with packaging, formulation, or the hues a product is offered in. For skin, mimicry may be more subtle, but it still happens. “Duping skincare is possible,” double-board certified dermatologist Dr. Karan Lal tells BEAUTYCON. “It all comes down to ingredients. While not all products are exactly the same, many have similar ingredients that can provide the same results.” So if a moisturizer goes viral for its dewy formula, instead of looking for similar packaging, keep an eye on the active ingredients they list. If you see those repeated on another, more affordable product, you might have found a dupe.
There are some brands that have made duping almost an art. Dr. Barbara Sturm’s iconic Hyaluronic Serum costs a whopping $325, but skincare fanatics noticed that it’s very similar to The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum, and costs less than ten dollars. Meanwhile, Supergoop!’s sunscreen is a must-have for many people, but influencers found that e.l.f.’s new Suntouchable Invisible Sunscreen is a nearly perfect dupe. When it comes to moisturizer, two of the most popular options on the market are Tatcha’s Dewy Skin Cream and the Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Nourishing Whipped Moisturizer. According to some experts, both can be duped by Byoma’s $17 Moisturizing Rich Cream.
But is duping skincare safe? Unlike most makeup, skincare is not just for cosmetics, but can be for skin conditions as well. Many ingredients could have adverse effects if not formulated properly, so extra caution is needed… and that doesn’t mean that duped skincare products should be avoided. In fact, there are certain product categories that Dr. Lal things are worth finding a dupe for. “Never spend over twenty dollars on a moisturizer or hyaluronic acid,” says Dr. Lal. “These are products that often contain basic ingredients such as glycerin, shea butter, cetearyl alcohol, petrolatum, dimethicone and/or hyaluronic acid.”
Even better, these are all ingredients that are both common and safe for the skin. But even skin acids can be duped. “AHA and BHA products also do not need to be expensive because these too are cheap ingredients. Retinoids can be a save or splurge but this can be an easy save with a prescription from a dermatologist. Vitamin C can be a save or splurge but be careful to find a product that comes in an opaque bottle or pump so your product doesn’t easily break down.” There are a few categories where it’s important to get a high quality product. “Splurge on growth factors and peptides often which are not interchangeable. Splurge on a good sunscreen because sunscreens are your number one defense! Find one you like and stick with it!” insists Dr. Lal.
The bottom line? When it comes to skincare, the most important thing is that your skin is healthy, which doesn’t mean spending an arm and a leg on the newest, buzziest product. It’s way more important to be consistent with your routine, protect it from sun damage, and to be safe with active ingredients. So the next time you see a viral product and aren’t sure if you should take the plunge, wait just a moment: There’s a dupe for that!