In our never-ending pursuit for clear skin, mandelic acid has joined the ranks of other AHAs and BHAs that experts are turning to for gentle exfoliation. You might be familiar with glycolic acid and salicylic acid. These two are popular ingredients that are readily available in acne-busting products.
Meanwhile, mandelic acid is new on the scene, and gaining popularity fast. Not only is mandelic acid more gentle than its alternatives, but it works just as well, if not better.
Here, find out why you need to start incorporating mandelic acid into your routine– and the best products to do it with.
What is mandelic acid?
In the skincare world, it’s easy to think that stronger is better, but that’s not always the case. Many acne-fighting products can use very high concentrations of active ingredients, which can damage the skin barrier, cause excessive dryness, redness, and even scarring. That’s just one of the reasons why mandelic acid is becoming so sought-after.
“Mandelic acid is a weak alpha hydroxy acid that usually comes from almonds,” explains dermatologist Dr. Karan Lal. “It is a very large molecule, therefore it only penetrates the superficial layers of the skin. It is a mild exfoliant and promotes cell turnover. It is great for patients with acne.”
Because it’s not considered as powerful as other alpha hydroxy acids– also known as AHAs, such as salicylic acid– it still exfoliates and clears the skin, without causing barrier damage. That makes mandelic acid a great option for anyone with sensitive skin. “This is a great acid for sensitive skin, someone who has a lot of actives in their routine already, or someone who is breakout-prone. It’s also ideal for clients with a higher Fitzpatrick skin type, as some AHAs can lead to hyperpigmentation on a darker skin tone,” adds esthetician Sofie Pavitt.
What does mandelic acid do?
Mandelic acid, like other AHAs, is an exfoliant that helps promote cell turnover. Not only can this help battle breakouts, but it can improve other common skin issues. Pavitt says, “The exfoliation from mandelic acid can be amazing because it’s very gentle. If you’re dealing with acne, your skin can feel quite irritated so this is an ideal acid for breakout-prone clients. It’s also antibacterial so can help in reducing acne-causing bacteria and has a brightening effect.”
Even for sensitive skin, mandelic acid can be used safely and effectively. “Mandelic acid is one of the most tolerable acids to use in the skin. It is safe for sensitive skin. It is great for all skin tones and skin colors. It helps with acne, hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores, and textural irregularities,” says Dr. Lal.
Additionally, if your skin is mostly clear, adding mandelic acid in the morning can help keep your skin bright and healthy, and keep your pores clear. Mandelic acid can also be used in body care products, like body wash, to treat everything from body odor to breakouts.
How should mandelic acid be used?
Because mandelic acid is so gentle, it’s very easy to incorporate into a daily skincare routine. “If you’re using a mandelic acid serum, it is preferable to use this in the morning on dry skin, and combine it with other actives such as hyaluronic acid and your moisturizer,” says Dr. Lal. “It is important to make sure that you are wearing sunscreen if you are using mandelic acid products because alpha hydroxy acids can increase your risk of getting red from the sun.”
One of the great aspects of mandelic acid is that it’s gentle enough to pair with your other active ingredients. “Anyone who’s looking for gentle exfoliation, this acid works well with other actives such as retinol and BHAs also. I put almost all of my clients on a mandelic acid,” adds Pavitt.
If you have extremely sensitive skin, you might want to consider opting for wash-off products like cleansers or masks that contain mandelic acid, as a way to dip your toe. “Mandelic acid can be used in a body wash and or as a serum. The body wash is great for patients that have acne and or body odor. Because body wash stays on the skin for a short period of time it is best for those with sensitive skin and dry skin,” adds Dr. Lal.
