When the temperature drops and women bring their curls out to play, it’s important to remember how to care for natural hair during colder seasons.
It’s no secret that weather can have adverse effects on natural hair. Summer heat and humidity can cause shrinkage while cool winter air increases the possibility for dryness and breakage.
Sess Lee Cannon, educator and owner of Flourish Curls Salon, specializes in natural textures and spoke with NaturallyCurly about debunking myths around hair care for curly textures during colder seasons.
“Other hair textures may also experience dryness in colder weather, but it is usually less severe because straighter hair allows for more even oil distribution from the scalp to the ends,” Cannon says.
Debunking the Myth: How does cold weather affect natural hair?
During colder months, the lack of moisture in the air caused by low humidity as well as indoor heating can cause natural hair to become drier than usual. According to Cannon this issue impacts people “with tighter curls and coils because the natural oils from the scalp have a harder time traveling down the twists and turns of texture hair: leaving the ends more vulnerable to damage.”
The question remains: how does a person with natural hair protect their curls or coils from inevitable seasonal changes?
The resounding answer from stylist and educators everywhere: prioritize adjusting wash days to focus on retaining moisture.
Winter Wash Days
For most women, hair-care begins on wash day. A proper wash day will set the tone for any style and provide an indicator on how healthy the natural hair is underneath.
Though the thought of incorporating deep conditioning after every shampoo routine may seem tedious, deep conditioning hair masks fight the drying effects of cold temperatures in addition to hydrating curls for a longer period of time. Co-washing in between washdays is also another way to protect natural hair from dry conditions. At Flourish Curls Salon, Cannon and her stylist recommend shampooing every 7 to 10 days and cow-washing around day 4 of the style cycle if needed.
“Just be cautious if you live in a cold environment to make sure you dry your hair before heading outside,” Cannon says. “We don’t need moisturized hair with a side of pneumonia!”
People who experience dry scalp and symptoms of dandruff can use hydrating anti-inflammatory oils like tea tree, peppermint, or jojoba oil during wash day to help with dryness and flakiness.
“If you are dealing with a scalp that is dry, tight and cracked, then you need to up your water intake and increase the frequency of water, shampoo and conditioner on your scalp,” Cannon says. “ Your scalp should also be moisturized and flexible.”
Maintaining Moisture and Detangling
In between washes, maintaining moisture and keeping curls tangle free to minimize breakage should be top priority.
Cannon has three main rules for detangling, but these are especially necessary during the colder months. Before the detangling process begins, divide the hair in smaller sections so the process is manageable. Detangle on wet hair usually products with slip; slip will help separate strands of hair while reducing friction and breakage. Lastly, finger detangle and follow up with the use of flexible brushes and combs fora thorough detangling job.
Moisture maintenance after winter wash days is key. It is simple to determine whether hair is properly moisturized. Moisturized curls will maintain it’s natural pattern without being extremely frizzy. Curls dry to touch may need more moisture, however, limp curls that won’t hold definition could be over moisturized or in need of a protein treatment.
According to Cannon, over moisturizing curls can lead to “hygral fatigue, where the hair becomes overly soft, mushy and prone to breakage water lifts the cuticle” causing the cuticle to become weak and damaged if it’s not allowed to dry.
“The best bet is to choose styles that dry within 3 hours or less and do not saturate the hair in water every single day,” Cannon says.
Sess’ Styling Tools and Winter Product Recommendations
Steamer: A hair steamer can be a lifesaver during the colder months, as it helps open up the hair cuticles to allow for better absorption of deep conditioners and moisturizers.
Silk or Satin Accessories: Whether it’s scarves, pillowcases, or hair ties, silk and satin are crucial for minimizing friction and keeping moisture locked into your curls.
For tighter textures: Cannon recommends people with tighter coils to layer their products through the L.O.C method by using a leave in spray/cream/lotion followed by a moisturizing cream and a light oil. Opt for styles where your ends are tucked to help hold in the moisture!
For looser textures: People with looser curls should use lightweight moisturizers like lotions or leave in creams followed by a light oil like jojoba oil or Flourish cream.
Across all textures: A good leave-in conditioner and a hydrating curl cream can make a world of difference,” Cannon says. “ Some of my go-to brands are Design Essentials, Congo, Pattern and Flourish.”
Caring for Protective Styles
Alternatively, those who prefer protective styles during the winter months can expect minimal exposure and possible breakage from natural elements but there are still necessary steps to follow when maintaining protective styles such as braids or wigs.
“Let’s keep in mind that protective styles need to actually protect the hair, not just cover it,” Cannon says.
Braids
For women who prefer braids in the winter, scalp care and properly prepping the hair for installation is paramount for healthy hair. The type of braiding hair can also affect the protectiveness of the style. Using human hair for braiding is healthier, but not always as accessible. If human hair isn’t available, soaking the hair in a diluted water mixture will remove any drying film on the braiding hair.
According to Cannon, women with braids also need to keep the scalp moisturized with a lightweight leave-in conditioner or oil and regularly spritz the braids with a moisturizing mist to prevent dryness.
Wigs
Similarly, women wearing wigs in the winter time need to ensure their hair is moisturized underneath. Before wig installations, always ensure the curls are clean, conditioned, treated for any pre-existing issues and trimmed. If possible, wear a silk or satin cap underneath the wig to prevent friction.
When considering how to care for curly hair in the fall and winter seasons, the key step to consider is moisturizing. Regardless of the hairstyle, a lack of moisture will cause dryness and breakage. Aside from moisturizing regularly, people with curls can focus on trimming regularly, sealing the ends of their hair and using humidifiers at home to reduce the dryness that happens as a result from indoor heating at home.
