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Home • Ingredients

5 Protein Treatments That Are NOT Conditioners

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5 Protein Treatments That Are NOT Conditioners
By Sabrina Perkins · Updated September 20, 2016
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A photo posted by Green Beauty (@greenbeautychannel”> on Sep 19, 2016 at 7:38am PDT

Proteins are large molecules consisting of amino acids that keep our bodies functioning properly. They play a pivotal role in virtually every biological process, including our hair. Hair is made up of one extremely strong protein called keratin and while keratin may be strong, manipulation and environmental elements damage it over time. Pollutants, wind, sun, heat styling, permanent hair color, chemical-straightening treatments, and standard maintenance all contribute to the breaking down the keratin in our hair strands. This is where protein treatments come to restore our strands.

All protein treatments are not created equal, as some are potent while others are mild. Oftentimes proteins in treatments and conditioners will include hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed silk protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed milk protein, hydrolyzed keratin protein, and hydrolyzed collagen protein. Stronger protein treatments have higher concentrations of proteins, which when used too often can make your hair dry, brittle, and straw like. These proteins are intended to strengthen the hair’s cuticle layer by filling in chips along the shaft. They are not intended to condition and soften the hair. If you are looking for strictly protein, we’ve got you covered.

Greek yogurt

Greek yogurt has taken dairy lovers and health enthusiasts by storm. Greek yogurt has double the protein of regular yogurt and people love to eat if for the taste too. While you can find Greek yogurt in tons of hair recipes from masks to conditioners, those recipes are using the goodness of Greek yogurt for the power punch in protein and nutrients and not for conditioning.

Gelatin

Gelatin is a colorless, odorless, translucent, and tasteless water-soluble protein made from collagen. Largely composed of amino acids, glycine and proline, gelatin is an irreversible hydrolyzed form of collagen. It is perfect for adding protein to strengthen your hair and nails, but it has no conditioning qualities. Just like with Greek yogurt, when you see it in conditioners or in DIY hair recipes, it is being used for its protein power only.

ApHogee Two-Step Protein Treatment

This treatment is a popular two-step system formulated with magnesium and modified proteins that fuse into hair with the application of diffused heat. It is highly recommended for those experiencing high levels of breakage. Ingredients include water, hydrolyzed collagen, citric acid, magnesium sulfate, imidazolidinone, and panthenol.

REAL Protein Treatment

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Another growing favorite, this REAL Protein treatment is pure hydrolyzed wheat protein. It is intended to be mixed with a conditioner before applying to color-treated, bleached, relaxed, and medium to high porosity hair. REAL protein treatment will coat, patch, and penetrate your hair’s damaged cuticle layers while strengthening and nourishing from the inside out.

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ApHogee Keratin 2 Minute Reconstructor

This powerful one-step protein treatment is a concentrated blend of keratin amino acids, botanical oils, and vitamins that work to restore hair’s strength, softness, and resilience. Recommenced for bleached, relaxed or chlorine-damaged hair, this product rebuilds damaged strands. Formulated with water, cetearyl alcohol, polysorbate 60 (emulsifier”>, behenamidopropylamine behenatem stearolkonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, and cocodimonium Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin.

Protein treatments are intended to make your hair less porous. Both too much and too little protein cause dryness. Too much protein will not allow moisture to penetrate and too little will make it difficult for your hair to retain moisture. Balance is key. Still confused? Here more about what ingredients to look for, who needs proteins, and top recommendations by our contributing trichologist.

  • Does Natural Hair Need Proteins?
  • 6 Proteins that Must Be Hydrolyzed…If You Want Them to Work
  • The Must-See Guide to the Best Protein Treatment for Your Hair
  • Do You Over-Moisturize Your Hair? Understanding Hygral Fatigue

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Home • NaturallyCurly

How My Silk Press Ritual Helped Me Appreciate My Natural Hair

One writer discusses getting silk presses has been an important part of her natural hair journey.
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How My Silk Press Ritual Helped Me Appreciate My Natural Hair
Catherine McQueen/Getty Images
By Jessica Fields · Updated December 24, 2024

We’re deep into the cooler months and, for naturals, that means just one thing: Silk press season. Like clockwork, social media is a buzz with viral videos toting tips, tricks, and hair flips, among other enticing smoothed styles. Whether it’s a sleek middle part style or bouncy waves, there’s no denying the main character energy ignited with each look. 

I can attest firsthand to the freeing feeling that soaping away buildup to emerge with a sleek look brings. My curls are tight and plentiful, but you’d never know as I always wear my hair straight. I’ve gotten my silk press routine down to a T and often opt for a siny bone-straight look. But come wash day, it’s my curls, kinks, and coils that make me smile the most. My silk presses aren’t just a process to straighten my hair. Instead, it’s a reminder of how appreciative I am for my crown full of curls.

Like most Black girls, I grew up wearing ponytails and twists weighted down with bobos and barrets. I have countless memories of sitting between my mom’s knees as she raked through my curls and saturated them with globs of Luster’s Pink Moisturizer, never forgetting to tell me how fast my hair “drinks this stuff up.” At that age, straight hairstyles were reserved for special occasions, like church or school picture day, and were done with a hot comb and thick layers of grease. But as I got older my desire for longer-lasting straight styles increased and I begged her relentlessly for a relaxer. 

The answer was always the same flat no so my hair was kept in braids and twists. Her decision to keep my hair natural stemmed from two main issues. First, there were the dangers of perming virgin hair and how doing so too early in the growth process can alter the texture and growth rate drastically. Second, was the financial obligation bi-weekly relaxers came with. But in my senior year of high school, she finally gave in and during my college years, I was devoted to relaxers. It was a weird victory— sure my hair was pin-straight but I couldn’t help but notice it never looked as good nor full as my natural hair roller wraps. I knew I didn’t love the look the perms delivered but I continued to use them for management’s sake. Relaxers meant I could easily style my hair and most importantly, that I didn’t have to worry about it frizzing up. 

However, a turning point came when I moved to New York. I didn’t always have the money to get my hair done and had to quickly learn how to do it on my own. This resulted in the ultimate happy accident. I began growing out the years of permed hair. The process was trying, but through it, I gained so much more than a healthy head of hair. I began experimenting with ingredients to help my hair retain moisture and learning different techniques to straighten it. As the months went by, I watched the ragged permed hair slowly grow out, leaving behind loose curls. I’ll admit those first few years were a struggle, seeing just how much my curl pattern had changed. But it also helped me remember what my hair could be. In the years that followed, I learned how to wash, condition, treat, and nourish my hair— and in turn, watched my curls transform from loose and stringy into tight ringletts and coils.

This tale isn’t a new one and has remained a double-edged sword within the natural hair community. Many Black women have experienced vitality after ditching their relaxers but have also felt the sting of natural hairstyling— be it lengthy wash days or product formula inconsistencies. After some time, the fantasy of the big chop and twist-out faze that caused the natural haircare industry boom began to wear off, and women slowly began going back to relaxers. The decision typically led to a familiar crossroads, having to choose between what made sense for your hair and what “looked good.”

Going natural isn’t for everyone, and, at the time, I didn’t think it was for me, either. Despite perming my hair late into my teenage years, straightening my hair was the only style I knew how to do. Before my first relaxer, I’d spent years using electric hot combs, curling irons, and heavy products like curl wax and hair polisher to tame my curls. The result lasted no more than two days and turned my hair into a greasy mess—meaning I’d have to wash and redo my hair sooner rather than later. It ultimately led to heat damage and manipulating my curls. 

But getting a perm for the first or 70th time didn’t give me the results I longed for either. After leaving the salon, my hair looked incredibly thin due to how straight it was. I’ve always had very thick hair, so seeing it look flat was disheartening. Even when I settled on curls or a roller set, they never provided the voluminous look I preferred. My new growth was always nice and thick and when I started growing out my perm, I noticed it stayed that way. The fullness I tried so desperately to hide as a child was back and I wasn’t about to make the same mistake. 

Over the years, I’ve honed my skills and can easily transform my hair from springy coils to smooth, shiny strands— so much so that most people, including stylists, believe my hair is relaxed. My process involves a lot of conditioning products, clarifying ingredients, and heat protectants. Each layer ensures my curls are deeply moisturized and heavily protected before I begin heat styling. Through it all, I’ve learned to embrace my texture and to lean into the frizzy days. Don’t get me wrong, I love it when my silk press is on point, but I’ve learned to love the days it fades just the same. Seeing my curls revert is the epitome of bliss.

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