We’ve all been there: you set out to execute a flawless style, you have the perfect combination of products and the best tools, you make preparations regarding how much drying time you’ll need, etc., and yet- the style just doesn’t turn out right. Other times, your hair seems like it just wants to behave badly and the scissors start to look pretty good. Exasperation with the state of your hair may mean change could be good or even imminent.
Let’s face it- as awesome as it is to be natural, dealing with natural hair can be frustrating, time consuming, and unpredictable at times, especially when you’re in a time crunch or just ready for something different.
When you experience a bad hair day, or think you’re ready for a change such as a cut of some sort or maybe a little color, the first thing to do is always assess the situation and go from there. Here are a few solutions that will help you weigh your options!
1. Salvage the style
If your hair style turned out poorly in the morning or frizzed up beyond your liking throughout the day, don’t panic before trying to save the style. Times like these, it’s good to have a few styles that are easy to do and will work no matter what. Check out these videos from ItsMyRayeRaye and Traeh who showcase styles for long and short hair, respectively.
2. Trim your ends
Depending on the situation, if a style isn’t going well, your ends may have something to do with it. Dry, split ends can have a terrible effect on any style where your ends are out, so in many cases, just getting a much needed trim may do the trick.
3. Protective style
If you lead a busy life where styling your hair often isn’t always the most convenient option or if you simply feel as though you want something different, try a protective style. Wigs, braids, twists, crochet braids, and even updos are all terrific options for protective styles and the best part is, you can wear the style you’ve always wanted without embarking on a permanent commitment.
4. Try something new
There’s certainly nothing wrong with coloring your hair, getting a side shave, an undercut, or cutting bangs or layers into your hair if that’s your preference. Just make sure that your decision is based on a true desire for this change, not just because it seems like a good alternative to your current hair situation. You don’t want to end up regretting an irreversible hair decision. Also, do your research: check out other ladies on Instagram and YouTube who have chosen the hairstyle you are itching to pursue. You can also try to compare hair textures to see how the style will behave on your own hair. If you feel any degree of hesitation then don’t rush the decision and make sure you find a stylist you trust or is highly recommended.
5. Big chop #2,3, 4?
A second big chop is always an option, and it could be for different reasons: the fact that you enjoy short hair, miss having shorter length, want to get rid of damage, or otherwise. Keep in mind that a second big chop doesn’t necessarily mean cutting it all the way off. Two years ago, my hair started to become damaged after months of overusing heat. After a year of growing it out, I decided I couldn’t hold on to those scraggly ends any longer and I cut my hair back to shoulder length (it has now grown to arm pit length”>. I didn’t want to let go of my “length” but having see through ends was simply not the business. If you are considering another big chop, keep in mind that it may not be for the same reasons as you did the first big chop and that’s okay. Just be sure it’s the right decision for you.
In this video, Carmen of MyNaturalSistas explains what made her want to do Big Chop #6:
What do you do when your hair isn’t acting right? Let us know!
You finally decided to start your healthy curly hair journey with the Curly Girl Method. “Embrace my curls” or “Curly and proud,” you repeat to yourself. A few website clicks later, and you find products that are labeled “Sulfate and Silicone Free“. You take the plunge and purchase them without checking the ingredients because you trust the labels. Now you have $70 worth of hair product on its way. Recommendations continue to pop up on your social media feed, and $300 later, you still haven’t found what works for YOUR HAIR!
“You’ll just have to try it and see if it works for you!” or “This is all about trial and error!” others would gently say.
I am here to tell you that there is another way to choose your products instead of trying everything that is on the market. Understanding how to read ingredient lists has transformed my curly hair journey without decimating my bank balance!
In the very early stages of my journey with the Curly Girl Method, I made these mistakes several times. A shampoo would have the label “Sulfate Free” at the front, and then later, I would have a hard time dealing with dryness and would finally see a Sulfate listed in the ingredients. From my experience over time, I came to understand that when advertisers label “Sulfate Free” at the very front, they are referring to one of the harshest Sulfates: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. However, this does not mean that the product is entirely free of Sulfates. On several occasions, I have found other drying Sulfates in the list, despite the “Sulfate Free” label.
Curly Girl-friendly ingredients to look for
In the Curly Girl Method, we avoid harsh Sulfates and drying Alcohols (they dehydrate the hair), Silicones, Waxes, and Mineral Oils (they build up). As replacements, we look for ingredients that are mild, moisturizing, and soluble for curly hair in order to minimize dryness and foster better moisture retention.
If you are following the Curly Girl Method like me, look for cleansers that are mild for curls, such as:
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Coco Betaine
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate or Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
Slip is very helpful for detangling curls because it decreases friction. Silicones are used in traditional mainstream products to add slip and shine. The issue with Silicones is that they don’t penetrate the hair shaft to make it better and they also build up.
They are removable with Sulfates, but in turn, the frequent use of Sulfates dehydrates the hair. It becomes a vicious cycle. Soluble ingredients for lubrication, on the other hand, make the hair better over time. They also add shine and flexibility to curly hair. If you follow the Curly Girl Method like me, you can replace Silicones with soluble ingredients that are located near the top of the list, such as:
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Behentrimonium Chloride
Dicetyldimonium Chloride
Distearyldimonium Chloride
Polyquaternium 55
Cetrimonium Bromide
I came to learn this helpful information from Wendy (a scientist) on the Hair Science-y Blog and Tonya Mckay here on NaturallyCurly.
Ingredient amounts in products
The Natural Haven Bloom Blog has helped me to understand the importance of ingredient concentrations in products. For example, just because a product is advertised with an “Argan Oil” label doesn’t mean that this product has high amounts of this oil. When ingredients are listed, they appear in descending order, calculated by either mass or volume.
As a result, when we read lists, we should always focus on the first five ingredients because they are the main ingredients (in higher amounts). A product that is labeled “Argan Oil” may well have some Argan oil included in the list, but the amount should be the most important thing to look for. If Argan oil is included near the end of the list, the amount is very small and insignificant.
If you have an allergy to a specific ingredient, relying only on front labels is likely to cause problems. Here I am sharing four steps that you can take to safeguard yourself:
Read ingredient lists very carefully;
Try a single new product at a time. This is helpful because if something unusual happens, you will know that the only difference in your routine is the brand-new product;
Patch test the product on your skin before using it for the first time, even if you can’t spot any ingredients that are harmful to you: Apply a small amount of the product on a patch of skin that is located on the inner, lower arm. Rub it in and allow it to dry. Avoid washing the area for at least 24 hours and then watch for signs of a reaction;
Observe closely how your scalp reacts after product application, even if the product has passed the first three steps above. If you notice a burning sensation, itching, redness, lumps or anything unusual on your scalp, you will know that this product isn’t suitable for you.
Always remember: If you happen to have a serious allergic reaction to a product, please seek medical attention immediately.
In summary, if you are looking for a product that is healthy for curls, focus on mild cleansers that won’t dehydrate your hair. Choose conditioners and styling products that have soluble ingredients for slip and elasticity. Reading ingredient lists is a good habit when caring for your curls and overall health. It also saves money and time. The more you practice, the easier it becomes.
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