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The Truth About the SheaMoisture + Bain Capital Partnership

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The Truth About the SheaMoisture + Bain Capital Partnership
By Michelle Breyer · Updated September 9, 2015

Last week, the natural hair community was rocked by the news that Sundial Brands, best known for SheaMoisture – the superstar brand that has taken the industry by storm, had brought Bain Capital in as a minority, non-controlling investor in the company.

Social media went crazy!

Did Mitt Romney – former Chairman and President of Bain Capital – buy the company?

Will the product formulations change?

Will the prices go up?

Was SheaMoisture going to abandon its African-American customers?

“WHY?????!!!!! ” – posted one SheaMoisture fan on Lipstickalley.com in response to the news.

We thought it best to take these questions directly to Sundial Brands CEO and founder, Richelieu Dennis. He candidly discussed the partnership with us – what it means for the company and for its customers. And perhaps more importantly, what it doesn’t mean.

Richelieu shared with NaturallyCurly that the Bain investment was driven by the company’s desire to stay competitive, providing it with the resources necessary to provide additional infrastructure to further expand. He said the partnership would enhance Sundial’s social entrepreneurship model, support its multi-brand strategy and enable it to invest in like-minded brands and entrepreneurs.

“Quite simply, we want to be better so that we can serve our communities better, period,” said Richelieu.

Watch the interview

Here are several key take-aways from our conversation with Rich:

1. Bain Capital did not acquire Sundial Brands.

Bain Capital did not acquire Sundial Brands. Bain is a minority investor. Richelieu will continue to provide the vision and leadership for the company, and Sundial will remain majority, family owned and operated, including its board, management and day-to-day operations. “The family remains truly the majority and truly in control of the business. For us, that is important because our consumers are the most important things to us – always have been.”

Richelieu said the reason they chose to partner with Bain was because of their social mission platform. Bain’s other investments include TOMS shoes, which provides shoes, water, medical treatment and bullying prevention services to people in need.

“We wanted to make sure we had a partner that knew our social mission was part of our business model and that has a proven track record of supporting mission driven businesses over and beyond just it as a marketing tool, but really as a business model,” he says.

As for Mitt Romney’s involvement in Bain, he left the investment firm 16 years ago.

2. Formulas and prices won’t change.

SheaMoisture and Nubian Heritage’s product formulations and prices won’t change. In fact, Richelieu stressed that it was key to him that any investment, regardless of the partner, not impact “the integrity of the company’s products, formulations or vision.”

SheaMoisture and Nubian Heritage’s product formulations and prices won’t change.
Richelieu Dennis, CEO & Founder Sundial Brands
3. Sundial is not abandoning its core African-American customer base.
The company has been criticized by some customers for expanding its marketing to address a diverse range of customers. Richelieu stresses, “we recognize that African-American women have long been at the forefront of the natural hair and body movement that has created the dynamic cultural shift that we see today. It is exciting for us to see how Naturalistas have now empowered women from all backgrounds to embrace their natural beauty.”

With Bain’s support, Richelieu said Sundial is committed to elevating and growing the “New General Market,” which he defines as a consolidation of cultures, ethnicities and demographics aligned with commonalities, needs and lifestyles. “I’ve always said that the only place in America where segregation is still legal is in the beauty aisle,” he says. “I’ve worked to change that with our introduction of the New General Market concept to beauty and retail.”

4. Sundial plans to be the acquirer – not the acquired.

Part of the company’s strategy is to invest in other minority-owned or under-resourced businesses. “We are thrilled to now be positioned to continue our identification, support and development – whether via acquisition or other investments – of other entrepreneurial brands that share our vision and values,” he says.

Richelieu started Sundial Brands in 1992 with his college roommate, Nyema Tubman, and his mother, Mary Dennis, shortly after graduating from college and being unable to return to his home country of Liberia because of civil war. From its humble beginnings of selling products on the streets of New York City to distribution and co-creation of its flagship brands – including SheaMoisture and Nubian Heritage – Sundial Brands has become a major household name. Most recently, Sundial Brands was named to the Inc. 5000 list of the fastest-growing private companies in the United States. The company celebrates its 25th year in business next year.

The investment in Sundial Brands by Bain Capital is the latest in a series of newsworthy deals in the hair care category.

As fellow pioneers in this industry we look forward to seeing what the next chapter brings for Richelieu and the Sundial team.

Home • Curl Products • Ingredients

Decode Curly Hair Product Labels Like a Pro

Learn how to read hair product labels like a pro.
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Decode Curly Hair Product Labels Like a Pro
Beautician reading beauty product label
By Lindsay Wilson · Updated December 26, 2024

You finally decided to start your healthy curly hair journey with the Curly Girl Method. “Embrace my curls” or “Curly and proud,” you repeat to yourself. A few website clicks later, and you find products that are labeled “Sulfate and Silicone Free“. You take the plunge and purchase them without checking the ingredients because you trust the labels. Now you have $70 worth of hair product on its way. Recommendations continue to pop up on your social media feed, and $300 later, you still haven’t found what works for YOUR HAIR!

“You’ll just have to try it and see if it works for you!” or “This is all about trial and error!” others would gently say.

I am here to tell you that there is another way to choose your products instead of trying everything that is on the market. Understanding how to read ingredient lists has transformed my curly hair journey without decimating my bank balance!

“Sulfate-free” doesn’t always mean Sulfate-Free

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In the very early stages of my journey with the Curly Girl Method, I made these mistakes several times. A shampoo would have the label “Sulfate Free” at the front, and then later, I would have a hard time dealing with dryness and would finally see a Sulfate listed in the ingredients. From my experience over time, I came to understand that when advertisers label “Sulfate Free” at the very front, they are referring to one of the harshest Sulfates: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. However, this does not mean that the product is entirely free of Sulfates. On several occasions, I have found other drying Sulfates in the list, despite the “Sulfate Free” label.

Curly Girl-friendly ingredients to look for

Chemical ingredients in a hair gel

In the Curly Girl Method, we avoid harsh Sulfates and drying Alcohols (they dehydrate the hair), Silicones, Waxes, and Mineral Oils (they build up). As replacements, we look for ingredients that are mild, moisturizing, and soluble for curly hair in order to minimize dryness and foster better moisture retention.

If you are following the Curly Girl Method like me, look for cleansers that are mild for curls, such as:

  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine
  • Coco Betaine
  • Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
  • Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
  • Sodium Cocoamphoacetate or Sodium Lauroamphoacetate

Devacurl Low Poo Original , Olaplex NO. 3 and AG Care Balance Apple Cider Vinegar Sulfate-Free Shampoo because I co-wash, and these two also contain mild cleansers.

Not all alcohols are bad for curls. There are moisturizing alcohols in ingredient lists that are good for hair. Some examples are:

  • Lauryl alcohol
  • Cetyl alcohol
  • Myristyl alcohol
  • Stearyl alcohol
  • Cetearyl alcohol
  • Behenyl alcohol

You can read more about the differences in alcohols here.

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@tootilab

Replying to @user1618992746641 great question! It’s one of the most important characteristics of curly hair – when your hair gets very slippery thanks to the products you’ve applied! #curlyhair #curlyhairconditioner #curlyhairtips #curlyhairtiktok #curlyhairtipsandtricks #curlyhairtipsbeginners #curlyhairsecrets #curlytips #curlytipsandtricks

♬ original sound – Tootilab
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Slip is very helpful for detangling curls because it decreases friction. Silicones are used in traditional mainstream products to add slip and shine. The issue with Silicones is that they don’t penetrate the hair shaft to make it better and they also build up.

They are removable with Sulfates, but in turn, the frequent use of Sulfates dehydrates the hair. It becomes a vicious cycle. Soluble ingredients for lubrication, on the other hand, make the hair better over time. They also add shine and flexibility to curly hair. If you follow the Curly Girl Method like me, you can replace Silicones with soluble ingredients that are located near the top of the list, such as:

  • Behentrimonium Methosulfate
  • Behentrimonium Chloride
  • Dicetyldimonium Chloride
  • Distearyldimonium Chloride
  • Polyquaternium 55
  • Cetrimonium Bromide

I came to learn this helpful information from Wendy (a scientist) on the Hair Science-y Blog and Tonya Mckay here on NaturallyCurly.

Ingredient amounts in products

Decode Curly Hair Product Labels Like a Pro

The Natural Haven Bloom Blog has helped me to understand the importance of ingredient concentrations in products. For example, just because a product is advertised with an “Argan Oil” label doesn’t mean that this product has high amounts of this oil. When ingredients are listed, they appear in descending order, calculated by either mass or volume.

As a result, when we read lists, we should always focus on the first five ingredients because they are the main ingredients (in higher amounts). A product that is labeled “Argan Oil” may well have some Argan oil included in the list, but the amount should be the most important thing to look for. If Argan oil is included near the end of the list, the amount is very small and insignificant.

Allergic reactions to products

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If you have an allergy to a specific ingredient, relying only on front labels is likely to cause problems. Here I am sharing four steps that you can take to safeguard yourself:

  1. Read ingredient lists very carefully;
  2. Try a single new product at a time. This is helpful because if something unusual happens, you will know that the only difference in your routine is the brand-new product;
  3. Patch test the product on your skin before using it for the first time, even if you can’t spot any ingredients that are harmful to you: Apply a small amount of the product on a patch of skin that is located on the inner, lower arm. Rub it in and allow it to dry. Avoid washing the area for at least 24 hours and then watch for signs of a reaction;
  4. Observe closely how your scalp reacts after product application, even if the product has passed the first three steps above. If you notice a burning sensation, itching, redness, lumps or anything unusual on your scalp, you will know that this product isn’t suitable for you.

Always remember: If you happen to have a serious allergic reaction to a product, please seek medical attention immediately.

In summary, if you are looking for a product that is healthy for curls, focus on mild cleansers that won’t dehydrate your hair. Choose conditioners and styling products that have soluble ingredients for slip and elasticity. Reading ingredient lists is a good habit when caring for your curls and overall health. It also saves money and time. The more you practice, the easier it becomes.

Do you use the curly girl method when using products? Learn more about ingredients from Breaking New Ground: The Ingredients Behind The First Black Haircare Brands.

OUR EDITORS INDEPENDENTLY SELECT ALL PRODUCTS FEATURED ON NATURALLYCURLY. HOWEVER, WE MAY EARN AN AFFILIATE COMMISSION WHEN YOU BUY SOMETHING THROUGH OUR RETAIL LINKS.