Crochet braids or latch hook braids are the hottest trend on Instagram feeds right now; easy installation, affordable hair, low maintenance, and big results, you can’t beat that! But what happens when it is time to remove them? How do you remove them and what needs to be done to your actual hair? Well, Roshini has an extremely helpful removal tutorial that you can watch below followed by important after-care tips to ensure that your protective style does not become counterintuitive.
What You’ll Need
Scissors
Oil
Mirror
Post Extension Removal Treatment
1. Clarify
Clarify do not co-wash. When your hair has been in a protective style for 6-8 weeks or 1-3 months it is important that your scalp is thoroughly cleansed, especially if you braided the hair down with a thick styler and regularly applied oils to the scalp while the extensions were installed.
2. Deep Condition
After cleansing you will want to do a deep conditioning treatment for 15-20 min. with a plastic processing cap. This will help restore moisture that your hair did not receive with weekly washes, daily refreshers, and moisture from the air. A major issue that many women who wear protective styles experience is breakage, which is counterproductive to the purpose of protective styling.
3. Strengthen
If you regularly wear crochet braids or other extensions, your hair begins to experience points of weakness along the length of the strands due to repetitive manipulation. Too much of anything can be bad for the hair (e.g. puffs, over conditioning, product buildup”> so it is important to change your styling habits and incorporate protein treatments. If you are protein sensitive to even the lightest treatment, then consider hot oil treatments with oils full of ceramides like cottonseed oil. If the breakage persists, then it might be time for a trim.
Although your ends will not be as weathered because they were protected, it is important to remember that protective styling merely reduces split ends, it does not eliminate them so a trim might be due. Lastly, give your hair a break! And I don’t mean the ten hours of sleep before your installation appointment first thing in the morning. Like stated before, repetitive manipulation can do more harm than good to your hair.
To make the most of your protective style, it is important to care for your hair before the installation and after the removal. Most people (especially stylist”> prefer to braid the hair down after it has been blown out to expedite the process, so if you choose those means then these steps are extremely important.
You finally decided to start your healthy curly hair journey with the Curly Girl Method. “Embrace my curls” or “Curly and proud,” you repeat to yourself. A few website clicks later, and you find products that are labeled “Sulfate and Silicone Free“. You take the plunge and purchase them without checking the ingredients because you trust the labels. Now you have $70 worth of hair product on its way. Recommendations continue to pop up on your social media feed, and $300 later, you still haven’t found what works for YOUR HAIR!
“You’ll just have to try it and see if it works for you!” or “This is all about trial and error!” others would gently say.
I am here to tell you that there is another way to choose your products instead of trying everything that is on the market. Understanding how to read ingredient lists has transformed my curly hair journey without decimating my bank balance!
In the very early stages of my journey with the Curly Girl Method, I made these mistakes several times. A shampoo would have the label “Sulfate Free” at the front, and then later, I would have a hard time dealing with dryness and would finally see a Sulfate listed in the ingredients. From my experience over time, I came to understand that when advertisers label “Sulfate Free” at the very front, they are referring to one of the harshest Sulfates: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. However, this does not mean that the product is entirely free of Sulfates. On several occasions, I have found other drying Sulfates in the list, despite the “Sulfate Free” label.
Curly Girl-friendly ingredients to look for
In the Curly Girl Method, we avoid harsh Sulfates and drying Alcohols (they dehydrate the hair), Silicones, Waxes, and Mineral Oils (they build up). As replacements, we look for ingredients that are mild, moisturizing, and soluble for curly hair in order to minimize dryness and foster better moisture retention.
If you are following the Curly Girl Method like me, look for cleansers that are mild for curls, such as:
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Coco Betaine
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate or Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
Slip is very helpful for detangling curls because it decreases friction. Silicones are used in traditional mainstream products to add slip and shine. The issue with Silicones is that they don’t penetrate the hair shaft to make it better and they also build up.
They are removable with Sulfates, but in turn, the frequent use of Sulfates dehydrates the hair. It becomes a vicious cycle. Soluble ingredients for lubrication, on the other hand, make the hair better over time. They also add shine and flexibility to curly hair. If you follow the Curly Girl Method like me, you can replace Silicones with soluble ingredients that are located near the top of the list, such as:
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Behentrimonium Chloride
Dicetyldimonium Chloride
Distearyldimonium Chloride
Polyquaternium 55
Cetrimonium Bromide
I came to learn this helpful information from Wendy (a scientist) on the Hair Science-y Blog and Tonya Mckay here on NaturallyCurly.
Ingredient amounts in products
The Natural Haven Bloom Blog has helped me to understand the importance of ingredient concentrations in products. For example, just because a product is advertised with an “Argan Oil” label doesn’t mean that this product has high amounts of this oil. When ingredients are listed, they appear in descending order, calculated by either mass or volume.
As a result, when we read lists, we should always focus on the first five ingredients because they are the main ingredients (in higher amounts). A product that is labeled “Argan Oil” may well have some Argan oil included in the list, but the amount should be the most important thing to look for. If Argan oil is included near the end of the list, the amount is very small and insignificant.
If you have an allergy to a specific ingredient, relying only on front labels is likely to cause problems. Here I am sharing four steps that you can take to safeguard yourself:
Read ingredient lists very carefully;
Try a single new product at a time. This is helpful because if something unusual happens, you will know that the only difference in your routine is the brand-new product;
Patch test the product on your skin before using it for the first time, even if you can’t spot any ingredients that are harmful to you: Apply a small amount of the product on a patch of skin that is located on the inner, lower arm. Rub it in and allow it to dry. Avoid washing the area for at least 24 hours and then watch for signs of a reaction;
Observe closely how your scalp reacts after product application, even if the product has passed the first three steps above. If you notice a burning sensation, itching, redness, lumps or anything unusual on your scalp, you will know that this product isn’t suitable for you.
Always remember: If you happen to have a serious allergic reaction to a product, please seek medical attention immediately.
In summary, if you are looking for a product that is healthy for curls, focus on mild cleansers that won’t dehydrate your hair. Choose conditioners and styling products that have soluble ingredients for slip and elasticity. Reading ingredient lists is a good habit when caring for your curls and overall health. It also saves money and time. The more you practice, the easier it becomes.
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