Bantu knots are a gorgeous style all on their own and a Bantu-knot out (simply unraveling the Bantu knots and separating”> is a phenomenal way to get uniform waves and curls on textured hair. Many have tried and failed at this style, but we have some pointers on where you actually went wrong.
Not allowing your Bantu knots dry
One of the worst mistakes when creating a twist-out, braid-out, or a Bantu-knot out is not allowing your twists to fully dry. There are actual memes poking fun at this because it is a nightmare. Unraveling your hair while wet or damp will leave your hair limp, frizzy, and undefined. Sit under a hooded dryer or use a blow-dryer to finish the drying process. You can also just rock the Bantu knots as is and accessorize with hair jewelry or a headscarf.
Know that Bantu-knot outs work best on damp or dry hair that has been stretched, so creating them right on wash day with fully wet hair may be a failure waiting to happen. This style is great for old hair that is not ready for wash day.
Not detangling
Just as you need smooth hair to create a banging roller set, you need fully detangled and smooth hair to create the Bantu knots. Fully detangled hair allows for product to be smoothed throughout the hair and to get the right level of definition when the knots are released.
Starting on freshly washed, wet hair
No one is suggesting you must have hair bone straight, but stretched hair is ideal for an elongated Bantu-knot out. You get a smoother finish on stretched hair and less frizz. This was my mistake whenever I tried this style.
Not adding a light oil to fingers
This may seem like an unnecessary step, but it can be the difference between a smooth and lasting Bantu-knot out versus a frizz ball. Also, make sure your nails are not jagged to avoid snagging and breakage on your takedown.
Just as a stellar setting lotion is necessary for a smooth and frizz-free roller set, the right styler with the right amount of hold is necessary for a great Bantu-knot out. A twisting gel or cream is ideal to ensure your knots will have superior hold. Most twisting gels or creams are non-water based and will hold the style better without reverting stretched or straightened hair. Cantu Leave-In Conditioning Cream is a cult favorite, but trial and error will guide you on what keeps your hair moisturized and frizz free.
Over-manipulate until you create frizz
Our curly, coily, and wavy hair is more prone to frizz, and when creating a style like a Bantu-knot out, one must take the knots out carefully and style without disturbing the wave or curl. The style will loosen up over time, so remove carefully and know that less is more when it comes to fluffing.
Here are two popular videos showing different twisting techniques that yield amazing Bantu-knot outs.
You finally decided to start your healthy curly hair journey with the Curly Girl Method. “Embrace my curls” or “Curly and proud,” you repeat to yourself. A few website clicks later, and you find products that are labeled “Sulfate and Silicone Free“. You take the plunge and purchase them without checking the ingredients because you trust the labels. Now you have $70 worth of hair product on its way. Recommendations continue to pop up on your social media feed, and $300 later, you still haven’t found what works for YOUR HAIR!
“You’ll just have to try it and see if it works for you!” or “This is all about trial and error!” others would gently say.
I am here to tell you that there is another way to choose your products instead of trying everything that is on the market. Understanding how to read ingredient lists has transformed my curly hair journey without decimating my bank balance!
In the very early stages of my journey with the Curly Girl Method, I made these mistakes several times. A shampoo would have the label “Sulfate Free” at the front, and then later, I would have a hard time dealing with dryness and would finally see a Sulfate listed in the ingredients. From my experience over time, I came to understand that when advertisers label “Sulfate Free” at the very front, they are referring to one of the harshest Sulfates: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. However, this does not mean that the product is entirely free of Sulfates. On several occasions, I have found other drying Sulfates in the list, despite the “Sulfate Free” label.
Curly Girl-friendly ingredients to look for
In the Curly Girl Method, we avoid harsh Sulfates and drying Alcohols (they dehydrate the hair), Silicones, Waxes, and Mineral Oils (they build up). As replacements, we look for ingredients that are mild, moisturizing, and soluble for curly hair in order to minimize dryness and foster better moisture retention.
If you are following the Curly Girl Method like me, look for cleansers that are mild for curls, such as:
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Coco Betaine
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate or Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
Slip is very helpful for detangling curls because it decreases friction. Silicones are used in traditional mainstream products to add slip and shine. The issue with Silicones is that they don’t penetrate the hair shaft to make it better and they also build up.
They are removable with Sulfates, but in turn, the frequent use of Sulfates dehydrates the hair. It becomes a vicious cycle. Soluble ingredients for lubrication, on the other hand, make the hair better over time. They also add shine and flexibility to curly hair. If you follow the Curly Girl Method like me, you can replace Silicones with soluble ingredients that are located near the top of the list, such as:
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Behentrimonium Chloride
Dicetyldimonium Chloride
Distearyldimonium Chloride
Polyquaternium 55
Cetrimonium Bromide
I came to learn this helpful information from Wendy (a scientist) on the Hair Science-y Blog and Tonya Mckay here on NaturallyCurly.
Ingredient amounts in products
The Natural Haven Bloom Blog has helped me to understand the importance of ingredient concentrations in products. For example, just because a product is advertised with an “Argan Oil” label doesn’t mean that this product has high amounts of this oil. When ingredients are listed, they appear in descending order, calculated by either mass or volume.
As a result, when we read lists, we should always focus on the first five ingredients because they are the main ingredients (in higher amounts). A product that is labeled “Argan Oil” may well have some Argan oil included in the list, but the amount should be the most important thing to look for. If Argan oil is included near the end of the list, the amount is very small and insignificant.
If you have an allergy to a specific ingredient, relying only on front labels is likely to cause problems. Here I am sharing four steps that you can take to safeguard yourself:
Read ingredient lists very carefully;
Try a single new product at a time. This is helpful because if something unusual happens, you will know that the only difference in your routine is the brand-new product;
Patch test the product on your skin before using it for the first time, even if you can’t spot any ingredients that are harmful to you: Apply a small amount of the product on a patch of skin that is located on the inner, lower arm. Rub it in and allow it to dry. Avoid washing the area for at least 24 hours and then watch for signs of a reaction;
Observe closely how your scalp reacts after product application, even if the product has passed the first three steps above. If you notice a burning sensation, itching, redness, lumps or anything unusual on your scalp, you will know that this product isn’t suitable for you.
Always remember: If you happen to have a serious allergic reaction to a product, please seek medical attention immediately.
In summary, if you are looking for a product that is healthy for curls, focus on mild cleansers that won’t dehydrate your hair. Choose conditioners and styling products that have soluble ingredients for slip and elasticity. Reading ingredient lists is a good habit when caring for your curls and overall health. It also saves money and time. The more you practice, the easier it becomes.
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